Thank you so much for making thiese videos. I got my diesel heater and watched so many youtube videos. It is so easy to get excited about saving money by burning WO . So many of them make it sound so good but rarely anyone tells you about consequences. I’m glad I watched your video since I don’t have time to clean it once a week . I’m planning running it on diesel trough this winter and making a big batch of biodiesel to mix it with regular diesel for the next frost season
Making biodiesel is an additional cost. You just need to filter the vegetable oil through paper. Then mix the filtered oil with diesel 50:50 and you won't have any problems. Methanol and potassium hydroxide are expensive
@@Baky6 But most of these experiments with waste oil end up in burn chamber getting clogged and they have to clean them every 2-3 days. Jebi ga zemljace
i saw that video with the guy taking the ring out, thats a game changer, with that ring out you can very easily get at that main internal screen pop the ring back in and move on. if that ring doesnt move now, ill be modifying the whole thing to be able to do that, if you have a welder should be pretty easy, i dont have special wire for stainless, but if it sticks together thats all i'll need. right now im just on diesel/gas 60/40, i think the gas is vaporizing in the pump after 3-4 hours and the heat starts going away, i put RTV on the pump to try and seal it, even at the base of the electrical pins, or the pumps going bad. as far as a possible mod ive thought about removing that internal screen, maybe figuring a way to pinch the end of the fuel line a bit to atomize the fuel in lieu of the removed screen.
my heater was doing the weird wooshing starving sound even on diesel alone. Restricting the air inlet by maybe 25% stops the noise, so I started thinking the noise was an air resonance of some kind and decided to try something on a whim - I cut the burner open and pulled the tube-washer out of the long section and tack welded it 10mm deeper into a new stainless tube that was 10mm longer overall, and then tig welded the new tube back on. So now the burn chamber volume is bigger, the washer hole is further away from the "rosebud" in the center, and the overall tube length goes further into the heatsink bore. These mods fixed the crazy wooshing noise and as a side bonus, the whole combustion flow path seems to pass more airflow by how fast the exhaust blows out of the pipe now compared to previously, and it gives me an incredibly hotter burn where I'm hitting the limit of 210c on H5 now with the controller slowing down the pulse rate on me(I have some weird 6 button black controller with no hidden menu or ability to tune any other parameters). If you have access to a tig welder and some 2" stainless tube, it could be worth a shot to see if the same modification has the same effect for your waste oil blend.
@@Storman77 If you do give it a try, I should fill you in on another thing I tried while I was in there(which failed and was reverted back to stock). I replaced the inner chamber packing/liner with some heavy gauge stainless steel mesh in hopes that the thicker stainless wire would glow red hot and be less likely to carbon up where the fuel drips down, but the burner wasn't able to keep the temps high enough to maintain a flame for very long before it would flame out. I'm pretty sure the packing around the burn chamber walls acts like the wick of an oil candle to help spread the fuel out and buffer the pulsed fuel injection, and probably also acts to pre-heat the fuel a bit too before it gets consumed. I think once I replaced it with stainless mesh it was unable to do any of this and I cut it open once again to swap back to the original stuff, so I would advise to not replace that with anything else while you're in there. It should work fine as long as there isn't a huge amount of surface buildup on the wick material. On a related note, I'm also tinkering with design testing a self-regulating counterweighted throttle/butterfly valve that threads onto the 80mm~ fan intake hole so that no matter what H level I have it set to, I should be able to maintain 200-210c in the heater core at all times. 😁 I think these 2 mods combined will be great for burning my target 50/50 wmo blend on all heat levels, but I'll still have to test once I get the valve counterweighting all figured out. I also want to replace this oddball controller at some point too so I can have full control but I'm trying to go as far as I can before that gets swapped.
Have you tried Paraffin Lamp Oil in your mix? There is an old Patent of how to take waste oil, add in a clear jellotine mix, to remove the particles, let it settle for 24 hours, next pour off the clear oil, and then add in Paraffin Lamp Oil, to turn it into Biodiesel. Robert Murray Smith found the old patent to make biodiesel the easy way! Video 1784 Also check out 1793 run in a diesel heater
@@darrylbrown1319 Trying to lower flashpoint so it burns clean, coking is oil that is not completely burned, so it turns into a plastic, in the burn chamber. Both motor oil and cooking oil are thick.
I use a mixture of 50:50 diesel and filtered waste vegetable oil. I don't have any problems, it's the same as using pure diesel. It works on all settings without problems
Can you tell more about this? Are they rated for ethanol? Any links to the pumps being sold that has some of the specifications? Wonder if you could cut the voltage to the pump down via a rheostat for the non-adjustable units?
Maybe obtaining the MSDS for each type and brand of motor oil you are attempting to burn would reveal the mineral content? The amount of boron, calcium, sodium, zinc, phosphorus, other elements can make a different in deposit formation? You might have to switch to a low ash, low SPS type oil in your vehicles!
Thanks for sharing. I've found that all drain oil is not the same. Synthetic motor oil requires much higher temperatures to burn properly in the diesel heater. All of my black oil is full synthetic. It also requires a good filter to remove all the tiny metal particles common in drain oil. My mix is 70% diesel and 20% drain oil. I attempted to run 66/33 mix but I could hear the flame "rumbling", so I backed off. I use two tanks for the supply with ball valves on each. Fire the unit up on diesel and after the heater gets hot make the switch to black oil. Then switch back before shutting down. I have also found that my burner runs at it's hottest at 44Hz. My machine has a max of 54Hz I have a thermocouple and digital thermometer attached to the end of the burn housing (not an easy addition!). I was wondering what would happen if I used E85 gasoline in my mix. That's 85% ethanol. Here in Wisconsin, I can get 0%, 10%, 15% and 85% ethanol. All of our #2 Diesel is winter blended so I'm never sure what I'm getting. Keep up the good work.
"requires a good filter to remove all the tiny metal particles common in drain oil" Hmm. So either the person using the car/truck (whatever) did not take care of it, and did not change the oil on a regular basis, plus filter. OR they didnt have a filter on their car/truck (whatever). Because normally it should not be common to find much tiny metal particles in drain oil. If you do, this means the engine is wearing down pretty damn quickly, somewhere.
I seen a CZcams vedio I guy running 70% used truck waste oil which is 5w40 and 30% ethonal e85 we and he said he ran 50 gallons on his unite and no problem he runs it on h7 h8 setting could you please try that to see how much will it build up thanks we love you 👍
You need to break the seal from carbon build up that will stop you getting the cap out then clean the wire mesh underneath the cap you need a right angle pick so it sits on the back like a puller on the cap and don't slip off how yours is doing
hey just had another thought, how about mounting the heater with the heat outlet pointed down, maybe at a 45, with the internal screen removed, to help move the oil out of the burner area and into the burn chamber.
@@Storman77 the heat outlet end, tip the whole unit forward, that’ll put the burner more toward the top and maybe gravity can help move the oil out of the burner. But you cant point the flame down to much because of rising heat may be too much.
shame you couldnt get the bottom part out,ive had a look for the video but theres thousands of diesel vdeos on here and ive not being able to find the one showing how he got hes out.maybe hes is a model where that part comes out
Hey I got a question for you are the motherboards the same for both of your heaters the one with the blue controller and the one with black controller I have the blue and wanted to order a spare motherboard
@@Storman77 do you have a link or description of the board and controller you ordered? I'm trying to find a board and controller that will have the secret menu
@@SquarebodyTruckCamper here you go jus know I was ordering based on matching it to the After burner product. Which I think is the older style which is needed. www.ebay.ca/itm/403505738250?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=z339o5xdssa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=brvgjgb_reu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hi there Norm. Having the same problems with the temperature dropping to 145 Celcius on H2. Running on pure diesel. I'm now trying to increase the air inlet temperature by leading that black aluminium inlet pipe along the exhaust. So far I don't see any significant result. Though the pipe itself gets pretty hot I suspect the air doesn't get the time to heat up to make much difference. Maybe I should lengthen the inlet pipe? Have you got any ideas about this? Greetings from the Netherlands, and have a wonderful New Year!
I think heating up the inlet air is generally a bad idea. Hot air has less oxygen available for burning, and adding length to the intake creates inefficiency. I've watched another video where the CZcamsr was able to decrease the pump flow rate via adjusting the units settings, while increasing the airflow. More air and less fuel (lean mixture) means more heat. Proven in his video as he recorded the pump setting and exterior burn chamber temp for each fuel flow change. More cold air is what you want, but it's clear the combustion chamber needs to stay hot, more so if the inlet air is cold. This may be one reason why preheating the fuel can help, cold inlet air may make fuel distribution worse. If the fuel is already warm/hot, then it may be offsetting any cooling effect the inlet air may have.
@@danya822 Well, today I did see some result, at least on H7. First I reached 204 -205 Celcius, and now with this heated air inlet it went up to 209-210. I haven't lengthened the inlet, it's just stretched alongside the outlet, wrapped together with this black insulating ribbon. I have taken the plastic inlet filter off, as it will probably melt.
@@ijsman52 if talking about my post, and him changing the pump/fan settings, it's here: czcams.com/video/2kGnxkeiGWI/video.html It's not a turbo, it's just that the fan is dual action. It moves air over the combustion chamber to heat and expel it, and it is also used to push air into/out of the combustion chamber, and I assume is used to distribute the fuel in the combustion chamber as well. Speeding that fan up therefore introduces more air into the burn chamber. If heating the inlet air seems to help, then heating the fuel itself up is likely to help more. Hot air has less oxygen than cold. This is why all modern engines I can think of (car or other, although there are probably some one-off designs out there) are designed to get as cool air as possible. Increasing oxygen available for combustion will allow you to make more heat with the same amount of fuel.
just ordered one, have 300 gallons of waste oil, does heating the oil first help at all? always figured u could get it very hot and it should thin out, like to see a flow rate v oil temp. When its car temp hot it flows like water when i change it.
My suspicion is that you may get even better results by heating the fuel before it gets to the pump, as well as after. If the pump has issues with the viscosity, then thinning it with heat after the pump isn't the whole issue. But youd have to be careful that it isn't so hot to damage the pump itself. I've seen other CZcams channels where changing the AFR by reducing pump flow and increasing airflow, significantly changed the chamber temp, and also stabilized the temperature swings on hydraulic fluid. However that was apparently one of the units you could adjust the pump speed and fan speed independently. It stands to reason the fuel being used needs to be accounted for. Diesel, waste oil, gasoline etc are going to burn better at different AFR's, otherwise changing the petrol mix ratio would make no difference. Or, viscosity is the issue, in which case heated oil would help. The other video I'm thinking of made it very clear that pump speed was not a linear progression in heat output IF airflow was adjusted. More heat output at lower pump speed was the result. Finally, I think waste oil should be filtered down to 1-2 microns, which can be done easily with filter bags designed for making bio diesel. Automotive filters are nowhere near as efficient. I can't see any reason to leave small contaminants that won't combust in the oil. I'd be real careful with petrol in these. Ethanol will destroy plastic and rubber if it's not designed for ethanol, and I really doubt a cheap chinese *diesel* heater has things like pump seals that are rated for ethanol.
@@danya822 yea I agree, seen one guy have a ammo can with a heater in the can and had a pump with a bypass so the 100% motor oil would never stop moving being filtered and heated and burnt all in one loop. But it was a air mist system. I have a working unit that uses air but I wanted to try this unit to see what I could do.
@@Kammfrank82 Variables need removed. If one can get the unit running good on waste oil, it could certainly save you money. But VERY good filtering is one step that I see almost no one in these videos do. I've also seen the biodiesel folks let their oil settle for weeks. I'm not sure waste motor oil will do the same if left alone for that amount of time. Using the exhaust to preheat the waste oil seems like a good idea, but you'd have to somehow figure out the optimal contact with the exhaust pipe.
@@danya822 yup, I’m going to get my oil to at least 200 degrees. The oil filtering is easy like you said and very important, why add more junk to the burn chamber. I have a old led burner that uses gas and it runs the fuel like right around the flame and uses the pressure from the gas being heated to keep it going. Figured if u get the oil very hot it should run perfect besides the trash in the burn chamber after some time.
still couldnt find that video but ive just found this one (he'd also seen the same video)showing whats inside the burn chamber - czcams.com/video/skZt0rTH-_c/video.html
Do you not have your intake routed to the outside????? So the burner burns the air taken directly from the room it is in? If so, you do realize that that air it burns and throws out has to be replaced, right? And so it will come from the outside through every hole it can. That aint very efficient, right? Cause you basically draw in cold air that way.
the soot problem, ah well. Oven cleaner, or seafoam like they use in diesel engines. Ultra sonic cleaner thinggie. The only thing is: you should do it more regularly. Not wait until it fails, but clean it every month or 2, perhaps 3 (depending on usage). Sure, it takes a bit of time to clean it, (depending on the method. Cause taking it apart doesnt take much time, and dumping it into a device that cleans it for you doesnt take much time either). But if you see the results some guys cleaning parts from cars with ultra sonic cleaners and such...... It is like if the parts are new again.
As long as you don't want to run 2 chinese diesel heaters you don't need the 30 Amper version. Mine is 12Volt 240Watt and 20 Ampere, even the 15 Amper power supply is running those chinese crackers easily ! ✌️
If kerosene is cheaper. Mabey we should just be happy with that, or if your going to keep trying. And make adjustments to but crap. Then I will stay tuned. Lol. I heard runing it on its side. Causes. Flooding.??? And I seen one blow threw fuel hose map sensor cleaner. And fuel cleaner once in while. Not all time. . But ya. I might just be happy with korosean corowseen and why you don’t just order another heater. Then you would have all your parts. You need. Lol. I found all mine for. 89 dollars. Walmort under google search. N amizone. How bought two glow plugs. Lol
@@Storman77 Well I didn't want your courious mind to try it when someone else did. If u want to burn used motor oil why not try to build a waste oil burner, lots of you tube vids on how. Also what would happen if u tried injecting HHO into the intake. L8R
What volts are you running the heater on? 12V? Do you tried to run the heater at 13.6 V with your adjustable Power supply? The rpm of vent depends of the Voltage ⚡️ as well. The more Voltage the faster the vent speed in the combustion chamber. Please watch this Video. czcams.com/video/xmhIRbhJVlA/video.html Thanks for sharing your experience 😊
@@Storman77 if you are able to... its worth a try in my opinion. But be careful. I bought my power supply from amazon with that tiny yellow screw outside which can increase the voltage round about 15%. Have a good one sir!
@@roastntoast7550 well of course mine would be the none adjustable version for goodness sakes . I can’t catch a break lol oh well next eBay haul. I’m gonna be using any funds from channel to fund all the research, this is fun some days 😬
Who thought it would be a good idea to run the heater on contaminated oil rather than diesel? I appreciate your determination but I think you’re pushing the machine beyond its design limits.
There are youtuber who run this heaters on black diesel pretty well 👌 If it works you can save a lot of money. Specially here in Europe where energy prices are very spicy!
Did you try with 50% E85 and 50% waste oil? I mixed waste oil and E85 FIRST than filtered through "gasoline filter" I hade brand new (much more easy) , and after 4 weeks now there is no problem, BUT NEVER START with mixture, START first 10mins with diesel, and when you want to turn of change to diesel to at least 20mins. I have separate tank with mixture connected with fuel tap x2. one for extrnal and one for main. No problem so far and I use it 12-14 hours every day.
@@Storman77 Here in Sweden "they" do not like it, but when 1 litre diesel costs here 2,2 dollar (24.80sek/swe-crowns) we small people has to find "way out". 🤠
@@Bounty-Hunter69 when I found out that they burn most waste oil I was pissed off. They want us to recycle . Then let’s find ways to recycle or use it to make something worth it . I say making heat is one of them good thing .
Thank you so much for making thiese videos. I got my diesel heater and watched so many youtube videos. It is so easy to get excited about saving money by burning WO . So many of them make it sound so good but rarely anyone tells you about consequences. I’m glad I watched your video since I don’t have time to clean it once a week . I’m planning running it on diesel trough this winter and making a big batch of biodiesel to mix it with regular diesel for the next frost season
Making biodiesel is an additional cost. You just need to filter the vegetable oil through paper. Then mix the filtered oil with diesel 50:50 and you won't have any problems. Methanol and potassium hydroxide are expensive
@@Baky6 But most of these experiments with waste oil end up in burn chamber getting clogged and they have to clean them every 2-3 days. Jebi ga zemljace
I appreciate your efforts. It’s a trial and error process.
Glad to see you’re still trying
Congrats for 1000 subscribers 👏 ❤️ 💪✌️👋
Thanks lol I noticed this morning. Last I checked I was at 915 few days ago.
@@Storman77 its awesome 👌 merry Christmas 🎅 🎄
great man/experiment on it /keep it coming/thanks much
i saw that video with the guy taking the ring out, thats a game changer, with that ring out you can very easily get at that main internal screen pop the ring back in and move on. if that ring doesnt move now, ill be modifying the whole thing to be able to do that, if you have a welder should be pretty easy, i dont have special wire for stainless, but if it sticks together thats all i'll need. right now im just on diesel/gas 60/40, i think the gas is vaporizing in the pump after 3-4 hours and the heat starts going away, i put RTV on the pump to try and seal it, even at the base of the electrical pins, or the pumps going bad. as far as a possible mod ive thought about removing that internal screen, maybe figuring a way to pinch the end of the fuel line a bit to atomize the fuel in lieu of the removed screen.
my heater was doing the weird wooshing starving sound even on diesel alone. Restricting the air inlet by maybe 25% stops the noise, so I started thinking the noise was an air resonance of some kind and decided to try something on a whim - I cut the burner open and pulled the tube-washer out of the long section and tack welded it 10mm deeper into a new stainless tube that was 10mm longer overall, and then tig welded the new tube back on. So now the burn chamber volume is bigger, the washer hole is further away from the "rosebud" in the center, and the overall tube length goes further into the heatsink bore. These mods fixed the crazy wooshing noise and as a side bonus, the whole combustion flow path seems to pass more airflow by how fast the exhaust blows out of the pipe now compared to previously, and it gives me an incredibly hotter burn where I'm hitting the limit of 210c on H5 now with the controller slowing down the pulse rate on me(I have some weird 6 button black controller with no hidden menu or ability to tune any other parameters).
If you have access to a tig welder and some 2" stainless tube, it could be worth a shot to see if the same modification has the same effect for your waste oil blend.
May have to try that
@@Storman77 If you do give it a try, I should fill you in on another thing I tried while I was in there(which failed and was reverted back to stock).
I replaced the inner chamber packing/liner with some heavy gauge stainless steel mesh in hopes that the thicker stainless wire would glow red hot and be less likely to carbon up where the fuel drips down, but the burner wasn't able to keep the temps high enough to maintain a flame for very long before it would flame out. I'm pretty sure the packing around the burn chamber walls acts like the wick of an oil candle to help spread the fuel out and buffer the pulsed fuel injection, and probably also acts to pre-heat the fuel a bit too before it gets consumed. I think once I replaced it with stainless mesh it was unable to do any of this and I cut it open once again to swap back to the original stuff, so I would advise to not replace that with anything else while you're in there. It should work fine as long as there isn't a huge amount of surface buildup on the wick material.
On a related note, I'm also tinkering with design testing a self-regulating counterweighted throttle/butterfly valve that threads onto the 80mm~ fan intake hole so that no matter what H level I have it set to, I should be able to maintain 200-210c in the heater core at all times. 😁 I think these 2 mods combined will be great for burning my target 50/50 wmo blend on all heat levels, but I'll still have to test once I get the valve counterweighting all figured out. I also want to replace this oddball controller at some point too so I can have full control but I'm trying to go as far as I can before that gets swapped.
Have you tried Paraffin Lamp Oil in your mix?
There is an old Patent of how to take waste oil, add in a clear jellotine mix, to remove the particles, let it settle for 24 hours, next pour off the clear oil, and then add in Paraffin Lamp Oil, to turn it into Biodiesel.
Robert Murray Smith found the old patent to make biodiesel the easy way! Video 1784
Also check out 1793 run in a diesel heater
I believe that was for used cooking oil, but I'm very curious if it works for motor oil!
@@darrylbrown1319 Trying to lower flashpoint so it burns clean, coking is oil that is not completely burned, so it turns into a plastic, in the burn chamber. Both motor oil and cooking oil are thick.
I use a mixture of 50:50 diesel and filtered waste vegetable oil. I don't have any problems, it's the same as using pure diesel. It works on all settings without problems
Sir these pumps are used on Gasoline heaters as well you dont need extra lube.
Can you tell more about this? Are they rated for ethanol? Any links to the pumps being sold that has some of the specifications? Wonder if you could cut the voltage to the pump down via a rheostat for the non-adjustable units?
Maybe obtaining the MSDS for each type and brand of motor oil you are attempting to burn would reveal the mineral content? The amount of boron, calcium, sodium, zinc, phosphorus, other elements can make a different in deposit formation? You might have to switch to a low ash, low SPS type oil in your vehicles!
Thanks for sharing. I've found that all drain oil is not the same. Synthetic motor oil requires much higher temperatures to burn properly in the diesel heater. All of my black oil is full synthetic. It also requires a good filter to remove all the tiny metal particles common in drain oil. My mix is 70% diesel and 20% drain oil. I attempted to run 66/33 mix but I could hear the flame "rumbling", so I backed off. I use two tanks for the supply with ball valves on each. Fire the unit up on diesel and after the heater gets hot make the switch to black oil. Then switch back before shutting down. I have also found that my burner runs at it's hottest at 44Hz. My machine has a max of 54Hz I have a thermocouple and digital thermometer attached to the end of the burn housing (not an easy addition!). I was wondering what would happen if I used E85 gasoline in my mix. That's 85% ethanol. Here in Wisconsin, I can get 0%, 10%, 15% and 85% ethanol. All of our #2 Diesel is winter blended so I'm never sure what I'm getting.
Keep up the good work.
Someone was using desiel truck oil which was 5w40 and mixed 30% ethonal and 70% used truck oil and worked perfectly 🥰
"requires a good filter to remove all the tiny metal particles common in drain oil"
Hmm.
So either the person using the car/truck (whatever) did not take care of it, and did not change the oil on a regular basis, plus filter.
OR they didnt have a filter on their car/truck (whatever).
Because normally it should not be common to find much tiny metal particles in drain oil.
If you do, this means the engine is wearing down pretty damn quickly, somewhere.
Would you please try hot burning sythatic oils cuz there Hardee to burn and run it on 70% regular waste oil and 30% ethonal
I think the burn chamber needs to be over 200c to smoke the oil. On low I get over 30 hours on a gallon on low with the 8000 watt
I seen a CZcams vedio I guy running 70% used truck waste oil which is 5w40 and 30% ethonal e85 we and he said he ran 50 gallons on his unite and no problem he runs it on h7 h8 setting could you please try that to see how much will it build up thanks we love you 👍
Run your waste oil through a 20 micron filter and follow up with a 5 micron filter.
Hell go to 1 or 2 micron. It's cheap and easy using the bio diesel filter bags. Unburnt byproducts in the combustion chamber screams impurities to me.
I have ordered a couple bags
I’ve been using 1ltr waste oil and 4 Ltr kerosene for a few weeks does start ok I found any more I had flame out after 2 days
You need to break the seal from carbon build up that will stop you getting the cap out then clean the wire mesh underneath the cap you need a right angle pick so it sits on the back like a puller on the cap and don't slip off how yours is doing
hey just had another thought, how about mounting the heater with the heat outlet pointed down, maybe at a 45, with the internal screen removed, to help move the oil out of the burner area and into the burn chamber.
45 deg which way . Using the clock facing the unit with heat blowing at me the 10 or the 2 o’clock ?
@@Storman77 the heat outlet end, tip the whole unit forward, that’ll put the burner more toward the top and maybe gravity can help move the oil out of the burner. But you cant point the flame down to much because of rising heat may be too much.
a lot of waste oil burners on youtube seem to favour a 30 % oil to 70 % diesel mix.
shame you couldnt get the bottom part out,ive had a look for the video but theres thousands of diesel vdeos on here and ive not being able to find the one showing how he got hes out.maybe hes is a model where that part comes out
.
Idea
Would it help at all to have air injection
.
.
What is your power input
.
.
Where is the links to the different parts
.
Hey I got a question for you are the motherboards the same for both of your heaters the one with the blue controller and the one with black controller I have the blue and wanted to order a spare motherboard
I just ordered a new board and controller so I can use afterburner from Mister Jones . I confirmed the proper one
@@Storman77 do you have a link or description of the board and controller you ordered? I'm trying to find a board and controller that will have the secret menu
@@SquarebodyTruckCamper here you go jus know I was ordering based on matching it to the After burner product. Which I think is the older style which is needed.
www.ebay.ca/itm/403505738250?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=z339o5xdssa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=brvgjgb_reu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hi there Norm. Having the same problems with the temperature dropping to 145 Celcius on H2. Running on pure diesel. I'm now trying to increase the air inlet temperature by leading that black aluminium inlet pipe along the exhaust. So far I don't see any significant result. Though the pipe itself gets pretty hot I suspect the air doesn't get the time to heat up to make much difference. Maybe I should lengthen the inlet pipe?
Have you got any ideas about this?
Greetings from the Netherlands, and have a wonderful New Year!
Throw in 5% petrol and see if you get the same results as I did
I think heating up the inlet air is generally a bad idea. Hot air has less oxygen available for burning, and adding length to the intake creates inefficiency.
I've watched another video where the CZcamsr was able to decrease the pump flow rate via adjusting the units settings, while increasing the airflow. More air and less fuel (lean mixture) means more heat. Proven in his video as he recorded the pump setting and exterior burn chamber temp for each fuel flow change.
More cold air is what you want, but it's clear the combustion chamber needs to stay hot, more so if the inlet air is cold. This may be one reason why preheating the fuel can help, cold inlet air may make fuel distribution worse. If the fuel is already warm/hot, then it may be offsetting any cooling effect the inlet air may have.
@@danya822 Well, today I did see some result, at least on H7. First I reached 204 -205 Celcius, and now with this heated air inlet it went up to 209-210. I haven't lengthened the inlet, it's just stretched alongside the outlet, wrapped together with this black insulating ribbon. I have taken the plastic inlet filter off, as it will probably melt.
Still, I'm anxious to see this video you spoke about. Did he invent some sort of turbo on the inlet?
@@ijsman52 if talking about my post, and him changing the pump/fan settings, it's here: czcams.com/video/2kGnxkeiGWI/video.html
It's not a turbo, it's just that the fan is dual action. It moves air over the combustion chamber to heat and expel it, and it is also used to push air into/out of the combustion chamber, and I assume is used to distribute the fuel in the combustion chamber as well. Speeding that fan up therefore introduces more air into the burn chamber.
If heating the inlet air seems to help, then heating the fuel itself up is likely to help more. Hot air has less oxygen than cold. This is why all modern engines I can think of (car or other, although there are probably some one-off designs out there) are designed to get as cool air as possible. Increasing oxygen available for combustion will allow you to make more heat with the same amount of fuel.
just ordered one, have 300 gallons of waste oil, does heating the oil first help at all? always figured u could get it very hot and it should thin out, like to see a flow rate v oil temp. When its car temp hot it flows like water when i change it.
It did help me allot
My suspicion is that you may get even better results by heating the fuel before it gets to the pump, as well as after. If the pump has issues with the viscosity, then thinning it with heat after the pump isn't the whole issue. But youd have to be careful that it isn't so hot to damage the pump itself.
I've seen other CZcams channels where changing the AFR by reducing pump flow and increasing airflow, significantly changed the chamber temp, and also stabilized the temperature swings on hydraulic fluid. However that was apparently one of the units you could adjust the pump speed and fan speed independently. It stands to reason the fuel being used needs to be accounted for. Diesel, waste oil, gasoline etc are going to burn better at different AFR's, otherwise changing the petrol mix ratio would make no difference. Or, viscosity is the issue, in which case heated oil would help. The other video I'm thinking of made it very clear that pump speed was not a linear progression in heat output IF airflow was adjusted. More heat output at lower pump speed was the result.
Finally, I think waste oil should be filtered down to 1-2 microns, which can be done easily with filter bags designed for making bio diesel. Automotive filters are nowhere near as efficient. I can't see any reason to leave small contaminants that won't combust in the oil.
I'd be real careful with petrol in these. Ethanol will destroy plastic and rubber if it's not designed for ethanol, and I really doubt a cheap chinese *diesel* heater has things like pump seals that are rated for ethanol.
@@danya822 yea I agree, seen one guy have a ammo can with a heater in the can and had a pump with a bypass so the 100% motor oil would never stop moving being filtered and heated and burnt all in one loop. But it was a air mist system. I have a working unit that uses air but I wanted to try this unit to see what I could do.
@@Kammfrank82 Variables need removed. If one can get the unit running good on waste oil, it could certainly save you money. But VERY good filtering is one step that I see almost no one in these videos do. I've also seen the biodiesel folks let their oil settle for weeks. I'm not sure waste motor oil will do the same if left alone for that amount of time.
Using the exhaust to preheat the waste oil seems like a good idea, but you'd have to somehow figure out the optimal contact with the exhaust pipe.
@@danya822 yup, I’m going to get my oil to at least 200 degrees. The oil filtering is easy like you said and very important, why add more junk to the burn chamber. I have a old led burner that uses gas and it runs the fuel like right around the flame and uses the pressure from the gas being heated to keep it going. Figured if u get the oil very hot it should run perfect besides the trash in the burn chamber after some time.
still couldnt find that video but ive just found this one (he'd also seen the same video)showing whats inside the burn chamber - czcams.com/video/skZt0rTH-_c/video.html
Do you not have your intake routed to the outside?????
So the burner burns the air taken directly from the room it is in?
If so, you do realize that that air it burns and throws out has to be replaced, right?
And so it will come from the outside through every hole it can.
That aint very efficient, right? Cause you basically draw in cold air that way.
the soot problem, ah well.
Oven cleaner, or seafoam like they use in diesel engines.
Ultra sonic cleaner thinggie.
The only thing is: you should do it more regularly.
Not wait until it fails, but clean it every month or 2, perhaps 3 (depending on usage).
Sure, it takes a bit of time to clean it, (depending on the method. Cause taking it apart doesnt take much time, and dumping it into a device that cleans it for you doesnt take much time either).
But if you see the results some guys cleaning parts from cars with ultra sonic cleaners and such......
It is like if the parts are new again.
Yes I do , but a Garage isn’t air tight . I can see cracks and little gaps in the door . Very normal. Unfortunately this is the set up for now .
Hi norm , what 12v power supply your using , make a link to make model supplier
Just get a under $20 one from Amazon, 12v 30amp. They are very cheap & work great. You can adjust it up to 14v too to increase the blower speed.
www.ebay.ca/itm/184545300014?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=39cB7L0dQeW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=brvgjgb_reu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
As long as you don't want to run 2 chinese diesel heaters you don't need the 30 Amper version. Mine is 12Volt 240Watt and 20 Ampere, even the 15 Amper power supply is running those chinese crackers easily ! ✌️
@@roastntoast7550 I think mine is a 15 amp version runs fine
@@Storman77 thanks for the link , the 120 vac 12vdc 15amp are out of stock there though, I know the specs now , thanks .
Hey Norm, here's a link to a video where the guy gets the plate out that covers the rosebud : czcams.com/video/rxmpJ1nUGI0/video.html Might help.
If kerosene is cheaper. Mabey we should just be happy with that, or if your going to keep trying. And make adjustments to but crap. Then I will stay tuned. Lol. I heard runing it on its side. Causes. Flooding.??? And I seen one blow threw fuel hose map sensor cleaner. And fuel cleaner once in while. Not all time. . But ya. I might just be happy with korosean corowseen and why you don’t just order another heater. Then you would have all your parts. You need. Lol. I found all mine for. 89 dollars. Walmort under google search. N amizone. How bought two glow plugs. Lol
Hey Storm check out Chinese Diesel Heater, Burner Chopped Open By Shane Hogarth on You Tube. There is a hidden screen inside
Too funny I just watched it today
@@Storman77 Well I didn't want your courious mind to try it when someone else did. If u want to burn used motor oil why not try to build a waste oil burner, lots of you tube vids on how. Also what would happen if u tried injecting HHO into the intake. L8R
You might want to check your video, some personal info in there if you're bothered, probably best to blur it out 😬
What volts are you running the heater on? 12V? Do you tried to run the heater at 13.6 V with your adjustable Power supply? The rpm of vent depends of the Voltage ⚡️ as well. The more Voltage the faster the vent speed in the combustion chamber.
Please watch this Video.
czcams.com/video/xmhIRbhJVlA/video.html
Thanks for sharing your experience 😊
Well thank you sir . I seem to have to take mine cover off to set mine to higher voltage
@@Storman77 if you are able to... its worth a try in my opinion. But be careful. I bought my power supply from amazon with that tiny yellow screw outside which can increase the voltage round about 15%. Have a good one sir!
@@roastntoast7550 well of course mine would be the none adjustable version for goodness sakes . I can’t catch a break lol oh well next eBay haul. I’m gonna be using any funds from channel to fund all the research, this is fun some days 😬
Who thought it would be a good idea to run the heater on contaminated oil rather than diesel? I appreciate your determination but I think you’re pushing the machine beyond its design limits.
Well if you aren't interested in what people are doing towards used oil, just move on.
I know right . For me it’s worth the effort.
There are youtuber who run this heaters on black diesel pretty well 👌 If it works you can save a lot of money. Specially here in Europe where energy prices are very spicy!
@@shanehogarth6373 if it works, I’m interested, if it doesn’t, I won’t use it, that’s it
@@Storman77 thanks Norm, I really do appreciate your efforts but sometimes things that seem to good to be true are exactly that.
10 min videos or less 5 is good
70% diesel, 25% used oil, 5% acetone. Howls and flames out at least 1x a day. Think it's dirty?
Did you try with 50% E85 and 50% waste oil? I mixed waste oil and E85 FIRST than filtered through "gasoline filter" I hade brand new (much more easy) , and after 4 weeks now there is no problem, BUT NEVER START with mixture, START first 10mins with diesel, and when you want to turn of change to diesel to at least 20mins. I have separate tank with mixture connected with fuel tap x2. one for extrnal and one for main. No problem so far and I use it 12-14 hours every day.
Wow great results. I did try a strong gas mixture and it was awful for me .
@@Storman77 Here in Sweden "they" do not like it, but when 1 litre diesel costs here 2,2 dollar (24.80sek/swe-crowns) we small people has to find "way out". 🤠
@@Bounty-Hunter69 when I found out that they burn most waste oil I was pissed off. They want us to recycle . Then let’s find ways to recycle or use it to make something worth it . I say making heat is one of them good thing .
@@Storman77 100% correct 👍👍
If you watch 4 30min vids there goes morning afternoon