Thanks so much for demonstrating this method. I did a smaller test last week and a larger one today, with each one working great. I'm so glad I didn't punch holes in the barrel bottom as I earlier planned. So many other methods I reviewed were unnecessarily complicated or at least time consuming.
Thank you so much for posting this video! 🙏🙏🙏 A 3 hour burn of last year's tree tops and smaller limbs yielded 4 50lb corn bags with biochar. I can't see any other method that could compete with this one. The ground cone method might, but it it would take a toll on your back when removing it. Much love from Cincinnat!
I like your idea. So simple and usable amounts of char. I’ve been making my char in an abandoned Weber grill for years! I was able to acquire a Street manhole cover for a grate so as not to burn through the lightweight Weber grate. With the demise of our ash trees free wood is abundant. Enjoy a patio fire and when it’s bedtime put the lid on it and smother it.
Super simple, I like it. Nothing wrong with this method in the short term, especially if you add other amendments (like urea) to keep the pH balance. If you don't add amendments, you might end up with some wood ash in this process which will alkalize your soil if you're going to use this as biochar. Wood ash is high in water-soluble calcium, potassium, and phosphorous so adding this type of charcoal to your soil too many times would eventually result in a higher pH soil at some point...which is actually okay for brassicas like broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussell sprouts. Pure charcoal made in a closed system, locks in those alkali nutrients in the carbon matrix (meaning they are not water-soluble), and in the case of biochar, it is a much slower time-release since the bacteria and fungus only release these alkaline nutrients when the plants ask for them through the sugars they push down into the soil.
You could easily sift out the ash with a screen using exactly as you’ve described. That would give you a multi purpose biochar ash combination with specific purpose.
Greetings...direct and a no nonsense approach. I'm wanting to stay away from using water as a process of cooling down (the porous state and Fluoride in the tap water defeats the Purpose). A great way of producing Char. Thank You.
Well, there is nothing wrong with this approach, flame cap is simple, and it works. BUT, there are advantages to instead using a pit (better insulation, no need to buy a barrel) or a larger metal enclosure like Kelpie's ring of fire (thicker steel lasts a lot longer, normal barrels wear out quickly from the heat stress). Both alternatives also scale up easily to a lot more char than a barrel can make.
Agreed. This method has portability in its favor--you can take it to where your fuel is, don't have to dig a hole. We use charcoal for fuel so this method produces cleaner and dryer fuel than a water or dirt quenched arrangement. Thank you for pointing out some of the other options. Different situations and purposes will call for different approaches.
Still wastes all that heat, though. I like my in-stove retort, where all the gases are burned, there's no smoke, and the heat goes into my home, cooking and bathwater. AND I get char at the end of every cycle. Not as much as this method, but more efficient and cleaner.
I love closed systems that capture the heat for use elsewhere! Bravo! The trade off is that your fuel has to be transported and prepared, and you must commit to the whole cycle. This open barrel is more appropriate if you are redeeming waste wood in place, as it is easy and portable. You don't have to weld, or have shop space. Its beauty is in the accessibility of the process.
Water is usually used to cool it down fast, which opens up more space. But it's not actually necessary. It's just supposed to be "better" when it's "activated" by quick temperature change.
It is. The spot of charcoal where the cold air meets the fuel can be somewhat more consumed or tunnel a bit. You can prevent this by putting a piece of raw wood in the path.
I bought one of your mini wood burning forges. I'm getting interested in doing some forge welding now, and understand that Cory often uses charcoal for that, besides the wood for regular forging. Seems like the forge would need probably 1" cubic or larger pieces. I was wondering if this very simple barrel method tends to produce a lot more very small charcoal and fines compared to some of the other methods. Do you use this method yourself for your forge, and how do you feel it works for that purpose? Thanks!
Hi @SRHacksaw, You are correct, I often use charcoal in my forge as well as wood. And 1" cube would be about the right size. Charcoal made in the char-cart can be smaller with a lot of dust/ash, but that's because we usually feed a lot of small sticks into it during yard cleanup or similar situations. if you put larger pieces in as well you should get some good useable charcoal for forging. Best of luck with your forge welding! -Cori
Yes, we have. It takes longer (no surprise). If you are using wood that is larger or wetter, it is good to tip the barrel a bit more vertical. This allows the wood to combust more slowly while the center heats up. You can put the barrel support on a brick or similar to accomplish this.
Thanks so much for demonstrating this method. I did a smaller test last week and a larger one today, with each one working great. I'm so glad I didn't punch holes in the barrel bottom as I earlier planned. So many other methods I reviewed were unnecessarily complicated or at least time consuming.
Thank you so much for posting this video! 🙏🙏🙏 A 3 hour burn of last year's tree tops and smaller limbs yielded 4 50lb corn bags with biochar. I can't see any other method that could compete with this one. The ground cone method might, but it it would take a toll on your back when removing it. Much love from Cincinnat!
I like your idea. So simple and usable amounts of char. I’ve been making my char in an abandoned Weber grill for years! I was able to acquire a Street manhole cover for a grate so as not to burn through the lightweight Weber grate. With the demise of our ash trees free wood is abundant. Enjoy a patio fire and when it’s bedtime put the lid on it and smother it.
I've searching for alternative method of making biochar, without the conepit method and other, this is very smart idea!
Thanks! Give the method a try and let us know how it goes for you.
I was going to make a retort but this just looks simpler and easier
This is a perfect, cost effective means of charcoal production that will clear my property of excess wood…thanks for posting!
Super simple, I like it. Nothing wrong with this method in the short term, especially if you add other amendments (like urea) to keep the pH balance.
If you don't add amendments, you might end up with some wood ash in this process which will alkalize your soil if you're going to use this as biochar. Wood ash is high in water-soluble calcium, potassium, and phosphorous so adding this type of charcoal to your soil too many times would eventually result in a higher pH soil at some point...which is actually okay for brassicas like broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussell sprouts.
Pure charcoal made in a closed system, locks in those alkali nutrients in the carbon matrix (meaning they are not water-soluble), and in the case of biochar, it is a much slower time-release since the bacteria and fungus only release these alkaline nutrients when the plants ask for them through the sugars they push down into the soil.
Thank you for sharing!
Do you have a recommended method of making biochar?
Take good care
You could easily sift out the ash with a screen using exactly as you’ve described. That would give you a multi purpose biochar ash combination with specific purpose.
Greetings...direct and a no nonsense approach. I'm wanting to stay away from using water as a process of cooling down (the porous state and Fluoride in the tap water defeats the Purpose). A great way of producing Char. Thank You.
Rainwater: Am I a joke to you?
Charcoal can't adsorb fluoride.. It is too small a molecule.. That's where reverse osmosis or ceramic filter comes in if needed
Quenching with Azomite or SEA-90 water makes for a better Biochar!
Yay. First!!!! You folks are awesome!!!! What a great idea!!
thank you so much this has helped heaps
Well, there is nothing wrong with this approach, flame cap is simple, and it works. BUT, there are advantages to instead using a pit (better insulation, no need to buy a barrel) or a larger metal enclosure like Kelpie's ring of fire (thicker steel lasts a lot longer, normal barrels wear out quickly from the heat stress). Both alternatives also scale up easily to a lot more char than a barrel can make.
Agreed. This method has portability in its favor--you can take it to where your fuel is, don't have to dig a hole. We use charcoal for fuel so this method produces cleaner and dryer fuel than a water or dirt quenched arrangement. Thank you for pointing out some of the other options. Different situations and purposes will call for different approaches.
KISS- KEEP IT SIMPLE... I like it!
Thank you for posting
Thank you
This is so smart
Would this work with hardwood shavings from my wood workshop I produce 100 gallons of primarily Oak and Beech off cuts and shavings
Dude.... WTH have i been doing!! I tried with a barrel straight up but it wasn't working... Now I'm doing this as soon as i get home!
What's the biggest peices you can use? I want to make lump charcoal, so as big as i can with the wood splits
Still wastes all that heat, though. I like my in-stove retort, where all the gases are burned, there's no smoke, and the heat goes into my home, cooking and bathwater. AND I get char at the end of every cycle. Not as much as this method, but more efficient and cleaner.
I love closed systems that capture the heat for use elsewhere! Bravo! The trade off is that your fuel has to be transported and prepared, and you must commit to the whole cycle. This open barrel is more appropriate if you are redeeming waste wood in place, as it is easy and portable. You don't have to weld, or have shop space. Its beauty is in the accessibility of the process.
Can you give a little more detail on the ledge?
The ledge was part of an early experiment to direct airflow. Experiments showed that it was unnecessary and it is not included in our kit.
Great Idea!
But isn't it better to turn of the fire with water? I thought this was necessary for making biochar
No. Just needs lack of oxygen. Water would make it faster though.
Water is usually used to cool it down fast, which opens up more space. But it's not actually necessary. It's just supposed to be "better" when it's "activated" by quick temperature change.
Wow. Just curious if the bottom layer of char is really protected by the flames. Interesting and def worth a try.
It is. The spot of charcoal where the cold air meets the fuel can be somewhat more consumed or tunnel a bit. You can prevent this by putting a piece of raw wood in the path.
I bought one of your mini wood burning forges. I'm getting interested in doing some forge welding now, and understand that Cory often uses charcoal for that, besides the wood for regular forging. Seems like the forge would need probably 1" cubic or larger pieces. I was wondering if this very simple barrel method tends to produce a lot more very small charcoal and fines compared to some of the other methods. Do you use this method yourself for your forge, and how do you feel it works for that purpose? Thanks!
Hi @SRHacksaw,
You are correct, I often use charcoal in my forge as well as wood. And 1" cube would be about the right size. Charcoal made in the char-cart can be smaller with a lot of dust/ash, but that's because we usually feed a lot of small sticks into it during yard cleanup or similar situations. if you put larger pieces in as well you should get some good useable charcoal for forging. Best of luck with your forge welding!
-Cori
@@corimessenger would the normal firewood size pieces be too big, or do they get broken down during the burning?
How much time is involved with this method to get you barrel completed?
Nice.
❤
How long does it take you to get a full barrel?
In my experience about 2 to 3 hours. But I never get a totally full barrel.
Nice! Will you be selling these?
Yes, we will have the carts for sale on our website soon at whitloxforge.com/making-charcoal/
Would method work with shredded carboard/paper?
No, there is too much surface area/too little mass to make charcoal from super fine material.
Have you tried it with larger split logs?
Yes, we have. It takes longer (no surprise). If you are using wood that is larger or wetter, it is good to tip the barrel a bit more vertical. This allows the wood to combust more slowly while the center heats up. You can put the barrel support on a brick or similar to accomplish this.