Who Installed This Abortion? Another Hacked Central AC System Replaced with Bosch IDS 2.0 Equipment
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- Whom ever installed this abortion needs to STOP installing AC equipment and get a new job! Earlier today we removed the entire system - including ductwork - and installed the Bosch IDS 2.0 system.
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Hi i am a 57 year old guy who will be finishing up tech school . I never thought i would be going back to school at my age but really enjoy what i am learning.I wish i would of done it along time ago.I watch your videos and get alot out of them.
I love those high rise AC pads. I use them on all my installs. Even straight ac. Stay cleaner and don't get beat up by the weed wackers.
Wear do you get those pads????
When weighing in the extra charge, do it before you release the refrigerant from the condenser. Since it's under vacuum, it will go very quickly. Afterwards, of course, check sub-cooling to verify. Dan is a great addition. Love the channel. Keep it up!
Hvac Ace.. exactly right.. now with new higher efficiency units you have to perchance as the sbcooling is not what a standard unit runs.
Also, and this may seem counter intuitive, dump it in through the liquid side with your tank on top of the condenser. putting it in from the suction side allows the refrigerant to expand and will actually slow down the process.
I think you have to count your fittings as well to get total equivalent length. I can't remember, it's been a while.
@@hvacgameproper1177 I wouldn't recommend dumping liquid refrigerant directly on top of the compressor in any situation. You would definitely increase chances of slugging the compressor. I guess if you were to start in heat mode it would be OK. I think it is just safer to add liquid to the liquid line while in vacuum.
Daniel is a keeper! I notice how he asks intelligent questions, goes to the truck to get refrigerant, and was using his calculator to figure out the extra charge without being asked to do so. He's 100% engaged in the job.
@@PipeDoctor feed that mindset he has. if you dont know: say so and find the answer together. its not bad to not know, its bad to guess and hope.
The oil acts as a lubricant and sealant for the pump vanes (your two stage fieldpiece, oil seals low to high sides aswell) . I was taught to test operation with a micron gauge before pulling the system down to determine if it was still adequate. the discoloration is an obvious sign on contaminants so change when its looking dirty.
I change mine at every use!
@@petersmart1999 I think that's the best route, our company has a vac charge to cover it too. Just nice to know when you're on that job 2 hours away from the sup house!
My Welch pump was like $4500 so oil is cheeper, I like my pumps,I own several the oldest being 20 years old and they all work geat,but I work on stuff a little bigger than 5 tons,and usually in bad shape,but still I change every use! That's just me maybe
You change the oil for the same reason that was done years ago on oil bath air filters: the oil lubes the pump, maintains the sealing of the pump, and contains the contaminates.
@@petersmart1999 actually, the oil is supposed to be changed immediately AFTER the use.
This time next year , it's Me Danny Pipes, Mike is off somewhere I'm rolling solo for the day 💪🏾
Mikey will be in Florida and Danielson aka Danny Pipes will be running NY! 👍😊
Refrigeration tech from FL, I use my vacuum pump at least 4 times a week. It's been over 4 months since the vacuum pump oil has been changed an STILL pulls down to 420 microns within 20 minutes. I know there will be some saying that's disgusting, it works for me lol. And Mikey Pipes knows how moist the air is down here, keep up the GREAT content and don't let Navien hush you up stay!
Im originally from NY, we didnt have heat pumps like you said. But ive been in NC for going on 2 years now and its full of heat pumps. I have not seen any with the liquid line insulated. Since you never installed one like you said and went based off of minisplits, i think it just shows how professional you are and how much you take pride in your work to go that extra step to insulate it to be on the safe side and not give the customer any problems by not insulating it. Great job. You can keep insulating them both if you would like or you really just need to insulate the suction line.
Hey Mikey pipes. You know since danielson started u havent yelled once. That makes life great having great help. Good job getting danielson.
The smaller line only gets insulated on minisplits because the metering device is in the condenser. On MOST ducted splits you shouldn't insulate the liquid line(heat pump or ac)
Why shouldn't you Insulate the liquid line? Though not common practice not a bad idea in hot attic the ensure metering device see that solid column of liquid. Didn't appear to be a long line set but have seen issue in hot attic where liquid refrigerant is boiling before metering Device.
@@vascowilson9102 you dont insulate liquid line on regular heat pump because it dont condensate.
@@vascowilson9102 insulating in the attic is only going to be helpful when it is hotter then the outdoor ambient. Additional Subcooling takes place between the condenser and evaporator. IN HEAT MODE the condenser has already transferred as much heat as it can into the supply duct. After the indoor coil you have subcooled liquid going back to the outdoor unit where your metering Device is. The liquid will have to flash off. So the warmer it is the less productive it is
@@DavidMay2nd many places its code to have both insulated even on straight ac. It sucks
Feeding the people !! Your content is the greatest.been learning so much and using it out in the field
I haven't seen a Mikey Pipes video in forever and this was just what I needed to see, common sense tactics being used with some jokes cracked at crackpot installations! And I think I love your line, "Drive with a purpose!" LOL
Some ppl drive and multi task too much 98 percent of rear enders on phone texting no focus on driving in traffic.,🤔✌️👍💪🙏🖖😁
From the Bosch manual: The Suction Service Valve must be opened first BEFORE opening the
Liquid Service Valve.
Probably because oil doesn't like to travel in a vapor.
Hi Mikey, I know this comment is late relative to posting of 3 years ago BUT I'm binge watching your videos as a consumer. I loved watching your videos because I truly appreciate your work habits and standards. You are detailed, you work clean, and make it such that one can truly appreciate quality work you do. And cleaning up to make things nice when you're done is the height of being a professional. This question comes to mind after watching this - why was there no final attic shot - to show how beautiful, neat and clean the attic was after you finished? After seeing the a mess when you started, I would have love to see the excellent work you did and how nice it looked when you were done. That would have been the cherry on top!!! Before and after pics would be wonderful. That is the excellence that a consumer appreciate as a thorough professional HVAC work of art. I truly wish you were in Chicago. Thanks for your videos.
Better safe than sorry insulating both line sets. No idea if it’s necessary but sure as heck doesn’t hurt!
That young man is a keeper. Doesn't complain and listens to instructions. I was impressed.
Maybe let the helpers ( mini me) do the video and talking. Then Mikey can answer his questions and comments. It could be interesting.
Great video like seeing Dan proving his ability more and more everyday. Have a great weekend.
CLC = Constantly losing components? Another great install and another great vid with Daniel-san! You got a powerhouse team there between you, other Mike, and Daniel-san! Keep knocking 'em out!
Yes, on a “heat pump” unit we always insulate both lines. Certain systems are actually more efficient heating than natural gas boilers/furnaces down to 30 degrees or so depending on the cost of electric & gas. Around here the magic COP number is 3.5. Once the COP drops below 3.5 a 95% natural gas system is more efficient.
Heat pumps very common here. We have pre-insulated coils for domestic stuff here just roll it out all ready to go
Colder winters up there seemed like the right thing to do ,on a line set over 40 ft on top of it. Condensate coil freezing up 20' with a wind chill in the low teens roof top ,for a computer room sub floor cooling had to thaw out with torch about 20 yrs. ago charge was good , temp Thermal wrap till cold front pushed thru .👍💪🙏✌️electrical power only, no propane or natural ...
No need to insulate liquid line but doing so won't heard anything, excellent install love your work man keep the good work.
dont look at efficiency, look at cost. how much is a Kw of energy from gas and how much from a heat pump? and take note of the REAL efficiency of a gas burner, not its theoretical listed rating. once you look at that you will probably see much lower COP numbers.
If you are using a micron gauge...I agree with you, when it quits performing well then change it. Pumping down clean dry lineset=not much contamination.
I always put a little refrigerant into the lines to break the vaccum before I release the valves. They can sometimes suck in a little air when you turn them.
Watching your videos makes me wants to get into the HVAC trade. Feel like I missed the boat since I’m 28. Located in NJ. Love watching your videos. My 3 yr old son loves it when he heres you say “Hey! Its me, Mikey Pipes!” Thanks for keeping it real Mike!
I'm 30 and just getting in. It's never too late to learn something new my friend.
Twenty eight is not too old but that’s when I got out of the trade. I got tired of crawling through 140 degree attics.
Desire and commitment play strong , never too old if you got heart into it , very rewarding helping ppl stay cool and warm in the seasons , some days are extreme , some are a cake walk ,💪✌️👍🤔🙏🖖🤙😎💙
Hands down Mikey hits a good positive flow , no editing ,still on point 99.9 percent awesome guy always feeding his viewers and subs. Like his opening vibe too , love his dharma simply good ...
@@shaneevans8963 are you going to a school or getting training/certification via online classes or are you already starting on the job training?
Good question about vacuum pumps and oil changing. Generally you will be using your vacuum pump on old systems rather than virginal new systems - unless you have two vacuum pumps and reserve one dedicated to new installs then you should change the oil after each session because because vacuum pumps don't have filters, the oil inside becomes saturated with contaminants, which reduces the pump's efficiency. Once oil is saturated it can't absorb any more system moisture. ... Replacing a vacuum pump's oil is critical to ensuring that your pump will keep running smoothly. Some vacuum pumps have a sight glass to view the oil and its colour - so if you are cheap - you could change the oil as soon as you see a significant colour change.
Mike,
Opening Service Valves
Manufacturers are different. The Bosch 2.0 systems advise in the installation manual that the Vapor side is to be opened before the Liquid side.
the reason you change oil from an air compressor or a vacuum pump is due to the moving parts (friction). The oil breaks down when it's heated and re-heated and looses it's viscosity. Steel or Aluminum moving parts also break down over time leaving fine particles in the oil and oil will start to turn dark which shows that there is normal wear on the moving parts. If you keep the old oil in and keep running it, the parts will wear considerably causing the motor to seize up. Oil should be replaced after every 1 full hour of use.
Nice job and nice install....
I think some companies may take longer only cause some would do the duct replacement differently. Flex goes in fast so cuts time down drastically. Also having a proper duct design vs just using a supply plenum and return plenum also cuts down time... All good....
Hi, Mikey Pipes watching all the way from South Africa, Love the content and the energy you put into your work I can see the passion. We exclusively install heat-pump systems here in South Africa (Mother City, Cape Town) Most beautiful City by far according to me, Anyway, we insulate both lines most expansion devices are located in the condenser units in our Region, and therefore need to insulate both lines. Oh and I do a test with the micron gauge connected directly to my vacuum pump to determine when to change the oil. Great work
Open the liquid side first because you don't want to slug the compressor with liquid on start-up. As for the vac pump If all you are vacuuming is new systems change once a week and before long breaks in-between vac's is what I do if I vac a dirty system comp burn out I change it after before I put the pump on the truck, don't want all that crap left in my pump. Also we install almost exclusively Heatpumps in the south the 3/8 line insulation is not necessary but not a bad idea either.
I’m happy to hear you praising both of the guys. Mike doesn’t get nearly as much praise as I’m sure he deserves. The short count on material does happen on occasion to all of us ( I’m sure even you Mike) at suppliers. Someone is talking to you and you miss something. The new guy is going to be a real asset to your business as well. That is a great attic to work in. I’ve seen and been in some of “tombs” that you have shown on previous videos. Gotta love days when shit all comes together and the job gets done before the weather. As for the Armaflex on both lines great idea for future when you utilize your heat pump feature. Nice install guys. 👍Mike, 👍Mikey 👍Daniel ( Dan the Man was my nickname, let him have it he deserves it).🇨🇦
actually impressed seeing the wagos. as a EU based hvac guy i cannot understand why wire nuts are even used. they are horrible. and yes, you do need to insulate BOTH lines for a heat pump. and you fill from the liquid side so there is no chance of liquid getting pulled into the compressor. pro tip: if you need to add gas, do that BEFORE opening the system. use the vaccum you already have to pull in the needed charge and then open the outdoor unit. instant proper level and not dicking around with adding charge when running.
@@PipeDoctor fun fact: between the lever and the wire insert point is a small slot in 1 or 2 places. its for shoving in your meter leads.
The Line Set Covers really make the job look great.
On a new install with a new line set every thing is clean no need to change oil. If you reuse line set it's full of dirty oil you need to change. Before you hook up the pump hook micron gauge right at the pump and if it pulls down to 20 microns the oil is ok
I re-sent the klein bag after the clc,and I sent good tools,no junk Joe!I think I sent you some stuff to Michael! Give that kid some Scooby Snacks!
As far as insulating liquid line on heat pump it's not necessary. As far as service valves always open in flow of refrigerant. Which would be high side then suction side. The reason for this as it was explained to me. Liquid logging the compressor. When you open liquid line first refrigerant flows it's normal way allowing it a chance to vaporize before returning to compressor. The txv should be closed until unit is turned on. Therefore it will stop the flow at the evaporator. Once unit is running it opens by pressure increase (unless its etxv) allowing refrigerant to change to a vapor and return to condenser.
One suggestion for a tool that comes in handy on ductwork jobs like this is a Malco hole cutter, you drill a hole in center of circle you want to cut in the plenum and the tool has a special bit that you then spin around the hole you just drilled and it cuts a perfect circle ( tool is adjustable for different round sizes ) no need for a hammer and screwdriver or electric shears to cut a circle out of a sheet metal plenum . Since you have so many nice tools i thought you might look into this next time your at a supply house, and get a couple of extra bits if you get one. Great video and very nice system!
Best knee pads are ProKnees. They aren't the best when climbing a ladder, but any other time, perfect. great for straddling ceiling joists They are fit to your size. Bummer is they aren't cheap. Mine are 15+ years old and are starting to need a rebuild kit.
Mikey Pipes you have very good team now, Daniel is great young worker too
Oil- test the pull down with the gauge only and if it can get down to 20ish within a minute or what you benchmarked it when it was new, the oil is still good. Assuming your pressure test verified no leak and a new leak did not sudden occur during the vac procedure, Once the pull down rate starts slowing down to a crawl and it's still far from desired target, I will start with an oil change after checking the hoses and setup. I mostly do repairs and have found it necessary to change oil after every job. On new copper and evap coil change outs or install, I typically change on every other project but it really depends on the condition of the system i.e. Moisture that got into it. If the line set is under vac, I typically open the suction service first so that if any excessive level of oil comes out, it will be drawn back upon compressor start. Not sure if that is what all manufacturers call for now a days , but that is my procedure for the last 30 years.
When he point and say " nice bending work there..." I laugh so hard and fell off the chair. Seriously, I'm amature weekend warrior but this shit is beyond my thought.
I always install a trap on the lines when going up that high
Totally just bought a CLC bag. Didn’t think it looked that bad. Hopefully it lasts longer than a few weeks.
@@PipeDoctor I’m rough on my tools so that’s not good news. Oh well! Im gonna roll with it and buy something nicer when this falls apart. 😂
Tip for you with take offs… squares are low restriction, but the rounds are high. Use a larger take off, with a reducer on it, to match the take off effective length.
Up to 18K subs... congrats! Frequent posts and premieres might be tedious but they'll ensure you go far!
How much.? $17,500.⁰⁰ for demo old system and install Bosch IDS 2.0?
Only reason mini splits insulate liquid line is because the EEV is in condenser and in cool mode both lines condensate beacause they are both after the electronic expansion valve. So the line set is part of evap coil.
Keep in mind, the line sets need to have an inverted loop when evaporator is above the condenser. I usually route the lines up and over the air handler before the drop down.
Mike, the reason the liquid line would be insulated is because, on a mini split, what is usually a liquid line is actually an expansion line.
The metering device is in the condenser and the cold line will condensate inside the home and cause damage.
Since you are using a txv at the air handler the insulation is not needed.
Depends how long the line set is for me and how much moisture is in the system. I've noticed the more you use the same oil the harder it is for the pump to pull a deep vacuum
Bro this new Bosch lineup is amazing. So quiet and efficient. Our customers rave about them
Liquid line insulation isn’t needed, but it doesn’t hurt. Attic runs gain heat without it in cooling, and lose heat in heating… but it is all efficiency…
Open the SUCTION valve first (slowly!). That prevents oil loss out of the compressor into the discharge line and out of the liquid line.
Yesss. I was wondering when will Mikey pipes post a video for today
I’ve installed a LOT of the 2.0’s, they are great, but you need to match the airflow for the home load calc. They will flow 2.5 to 5tons, and be extremely quiet doing it. The 12year warranty is unmatched. Having a thermostat control the air handler’s heat needs the unit can run nearly all day long, ramping up with the sun, and down as the sun drops out. Amazing machines. Best with the Bosch smart thermostat.
If you don’t change that oil, it corrodes the guts out of your pump. I had the “still works fine” attitude. Took apart my one year old pump and it was rusted inside. Now I dump the oil when it’s still warm every time.
@@PipeDoctor Till it doesn't perform anymore. I have a friend using the same pump for 15 years. He's not an installer though and he certainly does mind that its slow.
Some people work fast,some people work smart, and some people work hard! Very rare you find someone that does all the above. Some people watch shit happen, some people make shit happen, some people wonder what the f$ck just happened! Keep making shit happen Mike love this channel!
Wow that install was a real coat hanger abortion. Good thing you came along they needed that Bosch 2.0 ids
And your getting closer to 20k Mr. Mikey Pipes 👍👍
this comes directly from the rses source on deep vac pulling
When servicing today’s systems we
must change the oil as soon as it becomes
contaminated and no less frequently than
every time the vacuum pump is used.
Because the oil should be changed after
the vacuum pump is used and while the
oil is still hot, a look at the oil can indicate
what is happening in the system. White
cloudy oil indicates excessive moisture.
Brown oil can indicate a burnout (which
should be confirmed by an acid test) or a
failure to properly clean the system. Oil
with black or grey specks is usually the
result of a previous technician who failed
to purge nitrogen while brazing.
Is the Bosh IDS 2 an inverter system with a communicating t-stat? I thought it was. Perhaps there are models that aren't. I didn't expect a nest would support that system.
Another top quality job, makes me wish I could get you to do 2 systems for me down here in Houston.
Keep on keeping on Mikey and Danielson!
That attic isn't too bad......but im glad im commercial/ industrial and don't have to deal with them anymore. I spent my first 12 years in install in So Cal attics which get to 140°+.
PS- You dont have to insulate the liquid line on a conventional heat pump. Mini splits you do, because its not a conventional liquid line. Its a low pressure, low temp line. Think of it as a long line to the indoor coil after the EEV. Just like a conventional system where you see a txv that goes to a capillary tube distributor, same concept
I think you found a winner with the new kid Mikey
Hey Mike nice install . I usually do a attic install using as much round pipe as possible on my suppies and retutns . But nothing wrong with flex up to a certain lenght . I change my pump oil every month unless I have a burnout . Then I change it right after that .
30 year vet here in Canada 🇨🇦 Blows my mind the amount of flex used in the states definitely makes for a quick install tho .
Typically you only insulate the liquid line in extreme ambient like an attic, etc. The liquid line on mini splits is insulated because the metering device is in the outdoor unit. Both lines are low pressure. Hope this helps.
@@PipeDoctor you too. Great content and information on the steam and hydronic systems. Not well versed in that area but your videos teach well.
I have stuff to do but couldn't stop this 50 minute video.
That line set 😆 .... Man plus they soldier fittings on roof 😆... So take lazy way to run lineset but we are going to drag torch up just cause a pipe bender is too complicated. You found a gem👌😉
Insulating the 3/8 on a ducted heat pump is not necessary Mikey P. The reason you have to insulate both lines on a ductless system is that the TXV for those units is located inside of the condensing unit, which can cause what we call the liquid line, to sweat.
Love your work learn alot from you regarding hydronic and plumbing, I'm in VA residential service tech. We do have some boilers not as many as I like to see come winter, HP and furnace/AC market predominantly. 1st you open liquid side service valve because if you open suction you run the risk of pulling oil out of compressor per Rudd training course. 2nd I cringed when I saw your duct lay out, all those taps on that long supply plenum otherwise known as the Radial plenum that I would have bubble wrapped in that hot attic. Not my choice lay out because here in Richmond VA we have those in older houses that were strictly heat only with furnaces and when changeout with HP I noticed they struggle to heat. I prefer the reducing truck layout in round pipe definitely with those big HP taking air a long way so it won't get lazy, but I'm far from duct expert just my preference Hope that return box was lined or got warped. Not trying to beat the work up too bad because I do admire the quality you do provide to the customer and talk plenty of shit in the process my kind of guy.
The manufacturer has to recommend replacement of the oil after every use, because they have no idea what contamination is in the system you're evacuating.
It is a good service practice; considering the unknowns of every evacuation. I personally change the oil when my pump fails to pull below fifty Microns, or when I feel as if the oil has outlived its purpose.
I've repaired a circuit in a package unit that was left open to atmospheric conditions for weeks. When evacuating l, I literally had to change the oil twice and the process took an hour and a half, even using TruBlu hose
I don't change my vacuum pump oil every time. I check it by putting the micron gauge directly to the pump. If it pulls down to around 50 microns in less than 30 seconds it's good 👍👌
NOOOOO.
The main reason why he vapor line is ALWAYS opened first is oil return to compressor.
It is spelled out in the install manuals.
Opening the liquid line first flows refrigerant to the liquid line, the refrigerant takes oil with it.
Opening the suction line first, oil flows into the vapor line, and on startup, oil is more quickly returned to the compressor.
Manufacturers always specify opening the vapor line first.
Stay brite! Yes, I love it. I used it for years and coworkers called me every name in the book, guess what, if done correctly it works and lasts forever.
Thanks
I would love to start using it.
10 minute...how if "used correctly" will it last forever
Props to Mikey for putting peoples well being above money. I would have to say most companies would have protected the manufacturer for profits sake.
Dan the Man, was starting that cut in the sheetmetal, like a real tin banger.
I've never wrapped the liquid line in a heat pump because it doesn't create condensation but wrapping it in the attic might help the refrigerant not pick up any attic heat so might be a good idea.
The best idea was never go back to the truck empty handed!
Saves bunch of time on cleanup and saves your body from climbing down from the attic or up from the basement multiple times! Great install job!
I was always told the reason to change the pump oil is because of the contaminants that you pull out when you vacuum a system down. When you pump down a new system there isn't as many contaminants as and old system. My company doesn't change the oil till it starts turning brown for example but we do a lot of new installs
Liquid Side First Ensures you have no restrictions. It passes thru then flashes.heat in attic helps the. From being in a vac pulls to the suction line. ( idk way I was taught and think it’s the best practice)
Comments below. Idk if I’m just picky or whatever but I change the oil on my pump after every use. Before it gets put back in the truck the oil is changed. Quick change cartridges it’s a money making tool treat it well.
Young Mikey is right. I have had an appion Tez and didn’t change it and pump took a shit. ( which was new installs) with an electrical connection at the disconnect
I have seen a lot of heat pumps on the island. We have always insulated both lines. Otherwise loosing heat during heat operation.
I really don't know if the crimp fittings are better than brazed; but all I've ever done is braze fittings. It looks quicker hope it lasts. Oh.. I personally think turbo torches cook king valves. Just my opinion.
Change the vacuum pump oil once a year. And if you don't have any new oil to replace it with, you can use black coffee instead. 💪😁👌
Hey Mikey pipes, just something I saw but maybe I’m seeing things…looked like you opened the service valves with the micron gauge still attached to the system, can’t that ruin the micron gauge? Maybe I’m seeing shit, but thought I’d mention it 😂😂 beautiful install once again, keep up the good work!
hey man good video. it is a good feeling when the guys u train are finally producing and becoming more than helpers.
ive been installing many of these units usually with a backup furnace or electric heater.
from what ive learned the W terminal on the outdoor unit is meant for communication of indoor and outdoor unit when the performance of the heatpump drops off around 5 degrees and so the outdoor unit can send 24v to an aux electric heater. unless the home has solar i have been programming th smart thermostat to only run the heatpump to 15 degrees and instead run a 97% furnace or boiler. figured id share this to save you a call to tech support.
i grew up on the northshore and been living in colorado for 10 years. its crazy we got heatpumps here too and even up in the mountains. love your work flow and leadership with the guys. brings me back good memories in shitty attics
You're the man pipes!!! And I was always told to open liquid line first because if you open vapor line, all the liquid will sit behind compressor on start up and possible flooding could "possibly" damage compressor. 🤔 what do you think?
I was always told to open the vadpor line first that it pulls all the oil out of the compressor if you open liquid line first. Then I see Mikey opening the liquid line first so that's another myth.
@@ronniebuchanan6575 dont do that, you run the risk of sucking liquid back into the compressor. just crack the liquid and wait a couple seconds to fully open.
Nice install were in northern Virginia
Flex is allow no more then 8' for airflow purposes plus life expectancy
Also main trunk can be longer run to split all supplies much better
But every state is different
On my opinion duct work is a work of art too
Nice install very clean I like all you ideas God bless
Beautiful install. The customer is going to be very happy with the new system. Maybe Godzilla’s sugar daddy will take care of Daniel.
I have used that formula for 21 years now and never had a problem , it is different for a mini split .27 instead of .06
Take great care of that team! Good reliable help is so difficult to find right now.
Daniel made me proud to see him use that old school way of making a hole in the duct.
I love you mikey pipes. You knock those jobs out!!!Good job. Daniel son reads my comments I see. He is a hard worker like myself and keeps quiet unless its job related...I think you picked a winner mikey...
No P-trap? Wouldn’t that pull humidity up the drain into the airhandler?? Plus the thumping sound when it tries to suck trapped water up such a long line and slams it back down.
I would change the oil in it after every 10 uses or so. And yes I always open the liquid line first. Also I agree you got a great team. Daniel is a quick learner and made sipicup look like the coyote and road runner
Goodman states open vapor side first to reduce loss of compressor oil.
One other thing to take into account on the condenser unit is the spray pattern of the sprinkler system. You took out some plants to set the unit in it's new place, but had a sprinkler riser head on both sides of the unit, don't need to drown the unit. (lol)
@@PipeDoctor My bad, did not think that way, I have installed coil coolers on units in Las Vegas on roof top units. Air temp around 110 deg's. roof temp 140 deg's.
If the TXV is in the air handler, no need to insulate the liquid line. You don't need to change the oil in the vacuum pump unless it's affecting performance. But changing the oil should extend the life of the pump.
lineset that long, what are they working with? 8-9 seer? LOL Great work setting them straight!
I work on a lot of pre-existing system's large RTU's and I have to vacuum through compressors. Vacuum oil being new helps cut down time to vacuum system down for me. Sometimes vacuum will plateau the only thing I do change oil in middle of vacuum than system will continue to pull down. New copper and non contaminated system usually vacuums down quickly... Usually , depending on condition.
They say to crack the vapour side first slowly because if any oil comes out, it’s easier for it to come back to the compressor.
Great work as always....Daniel is an HVAC beast lol
If you read the manual for the vacuum pump it should give you an amount for runtime in hours that you need to change your oil. like every 5 hours runtime or something like that.
On the collar cutting, I like the compass drill tool better than the zip install.
I know you like to feed us Mikey Pipes.. but after seeing that existing lineset.... oh boy... I'm not feeling so well! 😂😂😂
In the attic id insulate both lines and condensate drain for any system hp or ac
ha ha!
just saw my first vid of you guys!
Was weird(?) at first but grew into it!😎.
Just one suggestion-give your side kick a mic!😎
you guys i think have a nice mix of personality!😁.
looking forward to viewing your other vids!(ya, learning this hvac stuff)
well done.😎