Thank you so much, your video helps a TON. I was banging my head how to drill a hole on my Ibanez to replace factory crap pots to CTS full size LP style. I was preparing a step drill bit but didn't have a gut to start. Again thank you so much sir. Greets from Serbia. 👍🤘😉
Awesome I use a counter sink bit in reverse to carefully take back the finish that way it doesn't catch then break or tear away the finish then use a reamer
Thanks for posting this useful info! Also worth mentioning, is some guitars, like the Ibanez RG series, have solid shafts, and those come in different shaft diameters. I believe most RGs have a 6mm solid shaft while many CTS pots have a 6.35mm shaft and a 3/8 bushing (the stock Ibanez pot has a 5/16 bushing as described in your video).
Oh my goodness, THANK YOU!! I was in the process of installing a prewired Aguilar preamp in my bass, did some additional soldiering to parts already connected the bass, only to find out that the pot holes are too small. This video saved the day!
Just wanted to say thx for this vid. I’m doing my first pot replacement on my own and am a little nervous. I bought CTS pots for a Chinese bass and noticed they were to big for the hole. I thought crap I don’t have a drill press and I tripped over your vid. So I went to harbor freight and got a round file and painters tape. It worked perfectly. Whew. So again thx for the vid.
Tell you works best and it is the perfect size. No need for a tablet in Melanie for anything It works for both machine heads and pots. A long carving knife sharpener, basically an alarm file is perfect for the job. Good vid Ty
Great tip! I had a dremel laying around that happened to have a cone tip stone bit and I used that to enlarge the holes on my SG-400. It also happened to be the exact same diameter as my pot shaft so it fit in perfectly!
I like the idea of using the pot washer as a template. Why the he'll didn't I think of it? So simple. So effective. Having a metal edge to work with takes out any risk of mistakes. I have the choice of using a rasp, stepped bit, hand reamer, dremel and good old sand paper. The problem I've had is deciding which one to use safely, on my first attempt at this minor job. I think I'll use a dremel with a small course sanding cylinder. It fits into the 3/8th" (9.25mm) washer hole, the speed can be carefully adjusted and the sanding action can be controlled by going around the inside of the hole in circular movements, so chipping should be virtually impossible.
It's a whole lot easier, quicker and cleaner to use a reamer. A few turns by hand is all it takes. It cuts clean and doesn't chip the finish. Also, Alpha does make better quality full sized pots. I've been using them for many years and they are just as good as CTS pots.
I'm very fussy about the condition of my gear and kind of learned my lesson with guitar pot snake oil. Even though I've never botched a job when enlarging the diameter of a mounting hole, just taking wood out of the guitar hurt me on some level. Some CTS pots are surely nice pieces of kit but having used Alpha and CTS across several years I've never heard a justifiable audible difference and between rolling with a "cheaper" pot and taking wood out of the guitar I choose the former every time. If the guitar has metric mounting holes I just keep on with metric pots, no harm, no foul, they even make audio taper pots with brass bushings for metric mounting holes these days. In regards to reaming the holes, fully agree but to anyone reading make sure to use a proper luthier's reamer for ie enlarging violin peg holes, the blades need to be sharp. Any old hardware store reamer won't do.
@@ReinhartSchneider it takes a while, but one day you'll discover that the pots made in the far east have far less quality materials. The Chinese just take too many short cuts in their metallurgy, it sucks, and corrodes rapidly. I always replace all the wiring and components asap, because the pots always get grindy, and staticy with a little age. A step bit, with a lite touch on the trigger works just fine.
awesome i will use this technique from now on. I wish i had watched this before working on my acoustic to change the tuners or my v to move the toggle switch, i chipped a brand new guitar's finish . Ah well i covered it up and when it gets enough dings i'll completely refinish it. But this technique will make it so i never chip out a finish again. Very useful, thank you! \m/
Sure, if you own a luthier's reamer, go for it. Some people won't be willing to spend 75 dollars on a tool to widen 4 holes when they already own tape, washers, and a file. If you don't have a luthier's reamer, then how is using your wrong tool better than using a file?
@@evhwolfgang2003 You don't need a "luthiers" reamer, a reamer will do just fine. If you're trying to make a point by jumping to the other end of the spectrum it's not credible... It's not as if this round file is a standard thing everyone owns either...
Got my reamer from Allparts in the UK Inc postage for £14 and it was perfect to slightly enlarge the holes in the headstock of my Squier Paranormal Cabronita to install the Gotoh SD-91 tuners.
@@JohnGaltJeepdid you need to ream from both sides of the body? Because I feel like it’s gonna be beveled on the side I ream from the angle of the reamer getting bigger as the hole is drilled.
+DAREU2X Great... If you can get it to work without chipping - sweet. I always had some damn little piece that chipped and it pissed me off. For me - the file method worked best but there are many different ways and by no means is mine perfect. Whatever works and gets the job done without damage is the thing to do.
Thanks! That was exactly what I was looking for. I will need to buy the roundy file though, at least it's gonna be useful in the future too. Again, thank you! :)
I did this on a guitar (4 holes) using a stepped bit. Before the actual drilling I ran the bit in reverse which tapered the finish. After that I ran the bit normally completing the hole.
+Breja ToneWorks Hi, I have a Yamaha SA2200 which needs a push-push tone pot replacement. The pot has a long shaft and body which goes way in and almost touch the back of the guitar from the inside. Basically, it is stuck there and I can't pull it out to replace it. Do you have any suggestion how to take this pot off the guitar? Thanks!
+1 for the Sandpaper method. I used 120grit rolled up in a tube secured with the same painters tape as the prep work. It helped a bit to sand from the inside of the cavity at a slight angle to taper the back of the hole. Zero paint damage, zero cost, and I now have a top notch CTS push pull pot installed. Thanks!
A perfect DIY instructional video. Quick and to the point, hitting only the important points and considerations and no annoying music or graphics. A++
I can't even begin to overstate the simple genius of this! Absolutely the best method.
This is a life saver, I wish more videos were as clean and concise as this one. Good job!
Very helpful... This video saved me from ordering the wrong parts and damaging the finish of my guitar. Thx!
Whew. I can chill now. THANKS SO MUCH!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much, your video helps a TON. I was banging my head how to drill a hole on my Ibanez to replace factory crap pots to CTS full size LP style. I was preparing a step drill bit but didn't have a gut to start. Again thank you so much sir. Greets from Serbia. 👍🤘😉
Brillant! Thank you for this super easy method!
Great video and thank you for sharing. I am working on one of my guitars today and will be using your method.
Awesome I use a counter sink bit in reverse to carefully take back the finish that way it doesn't catch then break or tear away the finish then use a reamer
Thanks for posting this useful info! Also worth mentioning, is some guitars, like the Ibanez RG series, have solid shafts, and those come in different shaft diameters. I believe most RGs have a 6mm solid shaft while many CTS pots have a 6.35mm shaft and a 3/8 bushing (the stock Ibanez pot has a 5/16 bushing as described in your video).
Thank you! worked flawlessly
I just tried this technique. Worked excellently. Thank you.
Oh my goodness, THANK YOU!! I was in the process of installing a prewired Aguilar preamp in my bass, did some additional soldiering to parts already connected the bass, only to find out that the pot holes are too small. This video saved the day!
I've always used Bourns and never had a problem with them ever. Great pots too.
Fantastic tip!
Just wanted to say thx for this vid. I’m doing my first pot replacement on my own and am a little nervous. I bought CTS pots for a Chinese bass and noticed they were to big for the hole. I thought crap I don’t have a drill press and I tripped over your vid. So I went to harbor freight and got a round file and painters tape. It worked perfectly. Whew. So again thx for the vid.
Tell you works best and it is the perfect size. No need for a tablet in Melanie for anything It works for both machine heads and pots. A long carving knife sharpener, basically an alarm file is perfect for the job. Good vid Ty
This approach worked great for me. Thanks!
Great tip for a tricky job,thanks!.
Wow!! This is sooo great!!! Been looking for a solution and you have it. Thank you so much
Thanks; excellent Video
Thanks very much for this.
Thank you very much! Great useful work!
Thank you so much for making this video, much appreciated!
thanks for making this
Great tip. Cheers
you are a genius! thank you for this tip.
I need to do this in my headstock for the new tuners. I was freaking out thinking of maybe making an error. Now i’m calm. Thanks
How did it go?
Super genius! Thank you!
Excellent idea. Thank you.
Great tip! I had a dremel laying around that happened to have a cone tip stone bit and I used that to enlarge the holes on my SG-400. It also happened to be the exact same diameter as my pot shaft so it fit in perfectly!
+mrpres17 Sometimes you get lucky that way. I've seen too many chips from guys how makeshift bits (unbelievably) use a full speed drill.
+Breja ToneWorks sent you an email ..... with the um.... bass pickup asking
I like the idea of using the pot washer as a template. Why the he'll didn't I think of it? So simple. So effective.
Having a metal edge to work with takes out any risk of mistakes. I have the choice of using a rasp, stepped bit, hand reamer, dremel and good old sand paper. The problem I've had is deciding which one to use safely, on my first attempt at this minor job.
I think I'll use a dremel with a small course sanding cylinder. It fits into the 3/8th" (9.25mm) washer hole, the speed can be carefully adjusted and the sanding action can be controlled by going around the inside of the hole in circular movements, so chipping should be virtually impossible.
Outstanding! Thank you!
Thank you so much! I did this today and it was a piece of cake.
Perfect ! Thank you for this information. Im off to my work shed with confidence.
Fantastic! Worked like a charm! Thank you!
It's a whole lot easier, quicker and cleaner to use a reamer. A few turns by hand is all it takes. It cuts clean and doesn't chip the finish. Also, Alpha does make better quality full sized pots. I've been using them for many years and they are just as good as CTS pots.
I'm very fussy about the condition of my gear and kind of learned my lesson with guitar pot snake oil. Even though I've never botched a job when enlarging the diameter of a mounting hole, just taking wood out of the guitar hurt me on some level. Some CTS pots are surely nice pieces of kit but having used Alpha and CTS across several years I've never heard a justifiable audible difference and between rolling with a "cheaper" pot and taking wood out of the guitar I choose the former every time. If the guitar has metric mounting holes I just keep on with metric pots, no harm, no foul, they even make audio taper pots with brass bushings for metric mounting holes these days. In regards to reaming the holes, fully agree but to anyone reading make sure to use a proper luthier's reamer for ie enlarging violin peg holes, the blades need to be sharp. Any old hardware store reamer won't do.
@@ReinhartSchneider it takes a while, but one day you'll discover that the pots made in the far east have far less quality materials. The Chinese just take too many short cuts in their metallurgy, it sucks, and corrodes rapidly. I always replace all the wiring and components asap, because the pots always get grindy, and staticy with a little age. A step bit, with a lite touch on the trigger works just fine.
Great idea! Thank you so much for sharing this! :)
awesome i will use this technique from now on. I wish i had watched this before working on my acoustic to change the tuners or my v to move the toggle switch, i chipped a brand new guitar's finish . Ah well i covered it up and when it gets enough dings i'll completely refinish it. But this technique will make it so i never chip out a finish again. Very useful, thank you! \m/
Thank you for a very helpful video. Got it done in 5 mins.
Great method! Thanks!
THIS is perfect advice here! Thank you so much! EXACTLY what I was looking for!
This worked perfect, thanks for sharing the tip!
Life saver. Thank you.
Thanks for making this video!
Excellent tutorial, thank you!
That was an awesome tutorial. Thank you!
there was a guy who made a natural fuzz inside the guitar, think it was passive idk xD possible? ❤ love this, u make it easy ❤❤❤❤🎉
Thanks! for your videos, Very helpful!
brilliant idea! Thanks
A regular hand held reamer is a lot less hassle.... I did all four of my holes this way zero damage
Sure, if you own a luthier's reamer, go for it. Some people won't be willing to spend 75 dollars on a tool to widen 4 holes when they already own tape, washers, and a file. If you don't have a luthier's reamer, then how is using your wrong tool better than using a file?
@@evhwolfgang2003 You don't need a "luthiers" reamer, a reamer will do just fine. If you're trying to make a point by jumping to the other end of the spectrum it's not credible... It's not as if this round file is a standard thing everyone owns either...
@@evhwolfgang2003 I got mine at Harbor Freight for $3.50. Worked flawlessly
Got my reamer from Allparts in the UK Inc postage for £14 and it was perfect to slightly enlarge the holes in the headstock of my Squier Paranormal Cabronita to install the Gotoh SD-91 tuners.
@@JohnGaltJeepdid you need to ream from both sides of the body? Because I feel like it’s gonna be beveled on the side I ream from the angle of the reamer getting bigger as the hole is drilled.
I use a tapered reamer in my cordless drill quick, easy and, no chips
+DAREU2X Great... If you can get it to work without chipping - sweet. I always had some damn little piece that chipped and it pissed me off. For me - the file method worked best but there are many different ways and by no means is mine perfect. Whatever works and gets the job done without damage is the thing to do.
This helped me a bunch, thank you!
Can you show a video one how to wire due hum bucker to a single volume pot with push pull?
Thanks! That was exactly what I was looking for. I will need to buy the roundy file though, at least it's gonna be useful in the future too.
Again, thank you! :)
Great advice ....thanks
You just saved me from shelling out money for a reamer. Thanks!
I have found a chainsaw file to be a really good file to use here as it is much finer and is also parallel - not tapered and fits nicely.
I did this on a guitar (4 holes) using a stepped bit. Before the actual drilling I ran the bit in reverse which tapered the finish. After that I ran the bit normally completing the hole.
Damn, that's a great idea
Hey good vid brother
Thanks a lot xD
Just what i needed
Nice ! Thank you Don ! :)
Hahahahahaha "playing captain obvious" had me cracking up
What brand is the filer round? What size? I couldn’t make it out when you mentioned the audio is bit unclear. Thank you.
nice!
What about if the pot holes need to be shallower for shorter pots?
Could you do this same method of you had to replace the bridge posts?
+Breja ToneWorks Hi, I have a Yamaha SA2200 which needs a push-push tone pot replacement. The pot has a long shaft and body which goes way in and almost touch the back of the guitar from the inside. Basically, it is stuck there and I can't pull it out to replace it. Do you have any suggestion how to take this pot off the guitar?
Thanks!
Use a luthier reaming tool, you can buy cheap ones or expensive ones. Dont buy metal working ones though, they are too abrasive and may chip wood
Can I use a screw on knob with a splined CTS pot? Thanks!
how do you do the holes for the wires?
or use a violin remer :) twist check twist some more
That's what I use Dan. Perfect every time. $15 online
90/120 grit sandpaper rolled like a cigar. 1 minute o work, outstanding results, 0 dolls spent.
Ps: no power tools needed
+1 for the Sandpaper method. I used 120grit rolled up in a tube secured with the same painters tape as the prep work. It helped a bit to sand from the inside of the cavity at a slight angle to taper the back of the hole. Zero paint damage, zero cost, and I now have a top notch CTS push pull pot installed. Thanks!
I'm trying to put a DPDT on-off-on switch into a non-existent hole without killing the lacquer.
Just push very hard, it will fit.
and 25 years later!...voilà
Thanks i was about to wreck my guitar