A simple Lifting Bed in a Camper Van using Linear Actuators
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- čas přidán 31. 01. 2021
- My camper van's lifting bed; the best bed for a camper to adjust to different gear, cargo and uses. I installed this lifting bed using four linear actuators in 2017 for my van, Mountain Bluebird. The actuators fully support the bed frame, suspending it above all bikes, skis and other gear from the structural van floor, keeping the walls clear and free from thermal transfer points and need for added structural supports as the walls are not designed to support much weight. I used four Progressive Automations PA04 30" linear actuators and their pivot mounts onto the 1" 8020/aluminum extrusion profile cabinetry/frame with 8020 linear bearings. The wheel well cabinets provide the mounts to at the floor level and the bed is made also of 8020 with 1/4" perforated high-strength PVC as the mattress platform which provides airflow to prevent any built up moisture so no need for Froli springs or other mattress ventilation system in a very low profile and strong and simple construction. I have four preset heights set in the controller to automatically adjust the actuators in unison to different heights for bikes, skis, cargo or p against the ceiling for more space or down low for easy access and additional head room space in bed.
#ProgressiveAutomations #Liftingbed #VanTripping #LinearActuator #VanLife
@8020llc @ProgressiveAutomations #froli #DIYcampervan - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Hi KC, thanks for choosing Progressive Automations for your Bed Lift System! We're glad our PA-04 worked well for your van and we look forward to your next project video.
You are welcome. I chose Progressive Automations after much research and was so glad when I found PA, as the actuators, controller and brackets have worked perfectly and your team excellent at helping me with detailed product information thru this van bed lift and currently in the planning phase of my next camper build that I can't wait to share more about.
how do you synch the speed and displacement of these actuator? What if one get drag and slow down?
Top of bed from floor is 48” using 36” actuator stroke length +~7.5” fixed length plus ~1.5” mount height from mounting surface to mounting hole x2 plus floor 1” profile that mount is mounted to =~48” from floor.
Great design! Result of good thinking. And also good material research which got you the durable actuators.
On one hand it sounds expensive, on the other hand it seems worth it.
Thank you. Yes, the actuators were about $600-700, with controller another $100, but compared with the material the build the bed frame up and attach it to the wall--that thermal transfer which my system completely avoids. And then add in the enhanced functionality in which I can carry bikes, skis, a washer/dryer, and the bed adjusts in height to all maintain max comfort, space and use. Plus bike geometries change over time, so building a bed height to a bike today may not work for the next bike, so the adjustable height bed accommodates all at a pretty low cost and simple and instant adjustment by pushing a button.
Thank you so much for the video 💙💙
You are welcome.
Because my perimeter bed frame is 3” tall (1”x3” profiles stood tall), the mattress sits recessed within the frame so top of my ~5” which mattress is ~27” from ceiling. It’s adequate but one does need to be a little flexible for getting in and out of bed. A van is always a compromise in space, especially height, but fitting bikes inside is wonderful as they are always clean, out of sight, no worries about getting stolen, or rusted, and I can easily carry four bikes across under the bed, with wheels on. Up to six with wheels and probably more if wheels off and bike forks mounted alternating front or back.
The 5” thick mattress I used is more than enough. I think 3-4” would even be plenty and gain another inch or two of room above the mattress.
Top of Bed frame to ceiling is 32” in lowest position. As I’ve said before, I wish I used 24 or 30” actuator stroke length instead to get the bed lower for when not having bikes below bed. With the 36” stroke, the bed cannot fully extend to ceiling because the walls taper in less than the 60” width of a queen mattress (plus frame width). This will also depend on the proximity of your bed to the rear corners, as the rear corners taper in even more. A mattress that is less wide than a queen (60”) will have ability to raise it up to the ceiling.
For anyone looking to use actuators for a bed that can be both low AND high, Progressive Automations sells TRACK actuators with stroke lengths up to 60". These would be 4 fixed columns around the bed. Guide rails are unnecessary since track actuators are like guide rails with lifting capability. See 10:45 in this guy's video czcams.com/video/Hs335Mn3xtE/video.html.
Thanks for adding-the track actuators are great if you install them at the front and rear of the bed as they really can't be installed on the sides due to the van's wall curving up. Problem is when installing actuators at the front and rear, they reduce the access to under the bed at least from the rear since track actuators need to be set inward about a foot to accommodate for the roughly 10" of curvature on each side, significantly reducing the rear underbed access opening, and hence why I chose to use regular actuators on the side as they follow/pivot to the curvature of the van walls as they go up, allowing them to be installed up against the side walls maintaining underbed storage space and access from the rear doors.
Hi good day! Your project is fantastic! Me and my classmates are currently finding mechanisms that will support our bed lifting (just like your work) for our thesis studies and this video is a big help for us. May we ask is it possible for it to have 3 stops or 3 levels? Thank you so much!!!❤
Hello, glad my videos are a help to you all. Yes, I use a controller that has four pre-set heights, each programmable, so just push a button for each programmed height or manually raise and lower. I used an actuator from Progressive Automations and they have many controllers for one, two, four actuators with programmable stroke settings. Good luck with your project.
This is epic. Thanks for the information! When it comes to the tracks. Are they running straight vertical?
You are welcome. Yes, the tracks, one on each side of the front of the bed run vertically.
Also mattress sits on top of bed frame which is 1” profile with 1/4” thick high strength perforated PVC sheet on top so frame adds 1.25” of height. While the 1” is way stronger than needed to support two people with enough cross bracing (every 12-18”), it may have a defection of 1/4” across the 60” span for a queen mattress. For those that really want to use 1.5” wide profiles, this will add another .5” of height.
Hi KC,
I'll be contacting Progressive Automations. Thanks for the info.
Can you tell me where you sourced the perforated PVC
Platform.
Have a great day!
@@russellthom1169 Garet! Tell Progressive Automations I say hello. I have a bunch of their linear actuators ready to be installed in my new camper build for various functions. I sourced the high-strength perforated PVC sheets from McMaster-Carr.
Does this work? Yes, very well, although more headroom when in bed with bikes below would be nice, however, my taller bikes with front wheels on are ~43” tall and with front wheels off ~41” non-dropper post MTB XC race bikes or CX or road bikes. With front wheel off and a dropper post or seat lowered, total bike height can be reduced to allow for more space above bed. And again, a shorter actuator of 30” or even 24” may be more ideal for more space above mattress with the compromise of not carrying taller items under the bed as I recently put a small tree laying sideways under the bed in the garage for a home upgrade project. So think about how high you may need to have under the bed for carrying larger items (appliances, trees, moving boxes) vs height of bikes, convince of leaving wheels on vs taking off after every ride and back on to ride, as well as leaving saddle heights vs having to readjust them. If your bikes have dropper posts, this certainly can easily gain a couple of inches with wheels on and even more with front wheels off.
Hey KC- Thanks for the video. I've been tired after long XC ski trips so I feel you ;) Quick question: When your bed is down, where the walls are tapered outward, do you just have a gap between the wall and the mattress?
Yes, there is a gap of a few inches on each side of the bed when in the lower position, and almost none with the upper position. I was worried that blankets, pillow or myself would "fall" into this gap yet never has happened. It's a queen bed, and if you think about it, while sleeping you probably don't push blankets or pillows off your bed at home, or fall off of it either, so not a problem.
I came for the actuators but now I'm curious about the perforated PVC sheets. That's a new one on me. Are they especially high strength or fairly generic for that material? And what perforation size/space are you using? Any commentary on that is welcome.
Also, what controller are you using for the actuators? I assume they are synced for speed?
While I am unclear of the strength of the high-strength PVC perforated sheets, they are incredibly strong-very difficult if impossible to break. 1/4" with 1/4" hole about every inch to allow for ventilation under the mattress while keeping a low profile. My mattress frame cross bars are 1x1" about every 12" on center across the width and the 1/4" PVC has no problem supporting the mattress across roughly 1 foot spans. I purchased these sheets thru McMaster-Carr--add'l info there. Just search for perforated in the plastic section.
Great video! I am actually going to try to replicate your setup in my sprinter shortly. A quick question for you - how did you attach the bottom of the linear actuators to the 8020 and D ring? It looks like the piece attached to the linear actuator is not a typical 10 series. Is that a 1020 piece? Did you have to drill holes into the 8020 or did the linear actuator bracket fit into the channel in the 8020? Appreciate you putting this together!
Great! I love this set up and functionality. I installed a frame of 8020 along the walls on the floor from front to rear of van, and those are bolted thru holes I drilled in them into every one of the factory tie down points. The ones drilled and bolted thru into the tie downs are 1020 series laid flat. I replaced the factory bolts with ones that are about 1.5 to 2" longer (because there is more space for longer bolts than MB used, and used locktite on them. No loosening or issues at all and bomb proof strong. There is one cross over between the garage and kitchen. I think I've posted some other videos of these details. You should be able to find those other videos by going thru the videos on my channel to find it.
Hello from Germany Berlin, my name is JR, a question about the bed system: is it electrically or hydraulically driven? Which components / manufacturers have been used for this? How much does the system cost if you contribute yourself? So far the best I've seen so far. Best regards, JR
Thank you JR. I used four electric linear actuators, each rated to 400 pound static and dynamic load. Each one supports the bed weight as well as lifts and lowers it, so the bed is free floating on top of these. Each linear actuator costs about $150-200 depending on controls and stroke length. I used Progressive Automations linear actuators, their mounts and controller although also other good brands and options are available. Progressive Automations customer service was excellent for input and help pre and post-sale, and shipped very quickly. I raise and lower my bed every day I'm in the van, which is often, and it has always worked flawlessly.
Sorry about the flashing from the lights. I had them dimmed down and the frequency between the lights and camera sometimes cuts off some moments of the light causing a blinking effect.
Hi, could you please let me know what hardware/fixings you've used on the rails to guide the bed and prevent the lateral movement?
Yes, I used one 8020 flanged sleeve bearing on each side of the front of the bed, mounted within a 1" vertical profile on the backside of the kitchen cabinets. These two bearings are attached to the front of the bed frame and keep the bed aligned side to side as well as front to back in the van, and also nearly eliminate side to side twisting movement. Keeps the bed aligned in the van between the interior walls as it moves up, as well as just set back with a small space behind the full height rear kitchen cabinets. These bearings work great with the bed because they are clean, self lubricating without grease and don't catch bed sheets or anything else.
@@vantripping - Apologies for the delayed response. Thank you very much for the in-depth response, very helpful!
Hi there, great work on the bed! Can you provide some info on the slides you use at about the 6:30 mark?
Sure, these are 8020 linear bearings that clamp on three sides of 1" profiles that protrude from the rear of the full height cabinets on each side. They work great--simple, light weight. no maintenance and take up little to no space. And silent.
@@vantripping Thanks for the prompt answer!
you're welcome. Glad I can help. I love this bed set up in my camper van still after five+ years of using it.
Hey quick question! What are the 80/20 pieces that slide on the 80/20 bars called?
Those are linear bearings. The fit over three sides of a profile and have a UMHW bearing--no maintenance, no grease, no noise, just a sliding alignment connector.
Hola buenas.. me dices donde puedo conseguir los motores para elvar la cama y la marca.. muchas gracias y muy lindo tu canal..
I shared in some comments below that I purchased my linear actuators from Progressive Automations. Very happy with them and their products but other linear actuators will work fine too.
do you still recommend this lifting bed after 5 months using it? I’m concerned its reliability because overtime, 4 different motors will move with different speeds, and they may be bended too
I've been using this bed for over three years and it has worked flawlessly. No issues and would not expect any as linear actuators/elecrtic motors are infinitely more reliable than any mechanical mechanism would be. No issues at all. They track perfectly in line, measured by the controller down to the tenth of an inch. Each linear actuator is IP67 rated, so sealed against and water.
@@vantripping thank you sir for your quick and helpful respond. how many track do you use? how much is the total cost of this bed without the mattress?
@@CaptainNguyen You're welcome. I have two vertical tracks at the front of the bed, along the sides of my full height cabinets. The tracks only need to be as long as the length of travel. Those two tracks are more than enough to stabilize it with two people using it. Not sure of the cost for the bed only, as I built out the entire van from scratch and by hand. The linear actuators alone can be $500-$1000 depending upon length, force and controls. The bed frame is fairly low cost.
@@vantripping thank you sir for your great answer. I will adopt your design to my van
Hello everyone, I've received some questions about the bed so providing some additional details here.
Would it be possible to list the URLs of the materials used like tracks, mount, and presetting height switch?
Easy enough: I used Progressive Automations PA-04 as well as their mounts and controller--they have options for mounts and controller so you can select which you prefer as well as stroke length of the actuator to give you the lowest height you'd like. I suggest 24" or 30" although 36" can work too.
The tracks are 8020 aluminum profile linear bearings. I used 1" profile and you can use which angle/mount of linear bearing as well as size works for your application or another options for a track.
Thank you so much!
@@user-pk7zw4sk9t You are welcome.
Is there a Build video link and the parts list? TIA
Hello Ray. I was so busy completing the build by myself in 2017-2018 that I did not record many videos of the build but do have some and many photos that I am working on putting into build videos. As for parts, everything was cut by hand but I can provide an overview of the parts for the bed platform since those are uniform and can easily be transferred to another van. I'll work on a video with that information and post soon. Watch for my new videos for that soon.
@@vantripping excellent. Your build Idea is exactly what I'm pondering. Any sketches, measurements etc would be great. I have a MB Sprinter 144WB but only 33,288 mileage and currently a 12 passenger van we use mainly for large Family only for church, not commercial shuttle. I like to sell off the mint condition bench seats and rebuild into an RV!
@@raygunn4036 Thanks. I can provide more details in a future video. I can pull out my sketches from 2015-2016 when planning this out and final ones for when I built it in 2017-2018. I'll work on getting that together.
What actuators are you using?
Progressive Automations PA-04, with Hall effect and four actuator, four pre-set controller. Great actuator and controller, easy to use, quiet, light weight, IP67, strong, been fail-proof for 6 years now. And Progressive Automations ships fast and actually answers the phone and can help with selection and support. I'm continuing to use their products in my new expedition camper build with an even more creative moving bed, benches, solar awning, doors, etc.
@@vantripping Thank you! What length did you use?
@@photomuse768 I installed 30" long but wish I stayed with 24" so the bed was a little lower without bikes. Trade off is that the bed will also be lower when fully raised, and I wanted to be able to move large things like appliances within the garage area and under the bed, which I have done. So everything is a trade off, but if I were to do it again, I'd use 24" which are about 30" tall when fully collapsed.
@@vantripping Thanks for taking the time to answer. That is so helpful. I was thinking I would have to mount mine from the wall somehow. Maybe not.
@@photomuse768 . I highly recommend mounting to the floor as it is the strongest part of the body and the walls are not very strong plus do flex a fair amount.
Is the control system using 24v or 12v?
The electrical system and actuators are all 12 volts DC. Very easy and simple wiring with a rocker switch or controller.
@@vantripping Thanks for the reply. So you are not using the "Hall effect" controller to keep the actuators at same speed/level?
Can you let me know the parts you are using. Appreciate it
@@darrenflannery4199 I am using four linear PA-04 Progressive Automations actuators each with Hall effect sensors, and Progressive Automations controller (I think the FLTCON-4 with their FLT Hand Remote) which matches the position of each linear actuator as well as provides four height pre-set buttons in addition to manual up/down buttons and actual height position which is really nice.
FYI, the linear actuators were custom ordered from Progressive Automations. A small extra cost per unit and little longer wait if the units you want are not in stock, but the will customize actuator length, voltage, Hall effect, load rating and other options. I've ordered several custom units for my new camper under construction and have already installed several and several more will be installed over the next month, and I will be releasing videos on each shortly.
@@vantripping The FLTCON-4 4 channel controller is 24vdc though? Maybe i'm confused