You need to pay attention when reloading. Do not lube the cases and handel your primers with the same hand. Make sure that you measure your cases after resizing and trim to the correct CL for the cartridge, a good case trimmer can be set to the correct CL and used on all resized brass that eliminates measuring each case. You will have to debur the in and out of the case neck. To prevent sittin your bullet to deep: Back up the adjusting pin on the setting die, and set your die on the press with the empty, trimed case, rase the ram and lower the die until it touches the shell. secure the die and place the bullet in the same empty case, rase the ram and lower the adjusting pin down until it touches the bullet, lower the ram and the adjusting on your die down by a few turns. Now rase the ram to sit your dummy round ( no primer or powder). Repeat this until the OAL of the cartridge is achieved. Mark this round so it doesn't get mixed up with life ammo and use it to adjust you bullet sitting die.
You have a crimping groove on your bullets.The bullet seating die will do the crimp unless is backed up o about 3/4- 1/2 turn for the bullet setting. To achieve crimp you'll need to back up your bullit sitting pin and lower the die in small increments until the proper crimp is achieved. Crimping is useful for repeating actions not necessarily bolt actions or bullets w/o the groove. Be aware that over crimping will increase the chamber pressure
My notes to anyone thinking of reloading: 1) If you are easily distracted, don't like to follow or read instructions, cut corners because you think you might get away with it, don't have time or space, reloading may not be for you. Reloading can be safe or it can be dangerous. It is your choice. 2) If you are considering reloading to save money, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, locking rings, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of a hundred rounds in 1.5 hours with a material cost of under 20 cents a round. For .223 it takes closer to two hours for a hundred rounds and material cost comes to about 28 cents a round. This time includes, time spent on set up, take down and clean up. 3) It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench. 4) Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. Nickel plated brass is reloadable. 5) There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded. If you run them through a sizing or decapping or resizing die you will break the decapping pin. 6) A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out. 7) all the different company presses will hold all the different companies dies 8) because the inside of the neck is held against the depriming rod during the resizing step some of use lube the inside of the case neck 9) Many of us clean the lube off the brass before proceeding to the next step. There's lots of reasons 10) Rifle brass typically needs to be trimmed to length after resizing. Then it needs to be deburred.
I like the video BUT REALLY LIKE HOW THE COMMENTS GIVE ADVICE AND ASK QUESTIONS! YOU GET SOME ASSHOLE COMMENTS BUT HEY … whatever thanks for the video and thanks to everybody not ball busting this guy and actually teaching him and giving advice! I’m the newest of newest of reloading and sometimes it’s overwhelming cause I’m so new I STARTED BECAUSE IT STOPS MY ADHD AND ANXIETY LOL LONG STORY BUT YEAH GOOD THINGS BUD! Thanks
I was wondering, he hand loaded the powder, but completely skipped the trimming brass part. Then of course it resulted in bullets not seating in the correct length.
How do you feel about just spray lubricant rather then rolling the cases on the pad,? I find using the pad picks up a lot of dirt and dust, sawdust etc…?
I think the spray would work pretty good… but I would take a cotton ball and wipe off the excess of spray on the casing… reason being is when the lube starts to dries it tends get sticky and you don’t want to get your dies gummed up… Thanks for the comment!
@@fallinbrass1599 just wanting to make sure...im talking about the same thing..at 13.47 as you look at the ram...it looks like 2 sections put together and as you run your finger down it theres a little lip
If you are talking about the top of the ram that’s the shell holder... if you are looking halfway down the ram it’s just an oil line on the ram... I hope that answers you’re question.😬
You need to pay attention when reloading. Do not lube the cases and handel your primers with the same hand. Make sure that you measure your cases after resizing and trim to the correct CL for the cartridge, a good case trimmer can be set to the correct CL and used on all resized brass that eliminates measuring each case. You will have to debur the in and out of the case neck. To prevent sittin your bullet to deep: Back up the adjusting pin on the setting die, and set your die on the press with the empty, trimed case, rase the ram and lower the die until it touches the shell. secure the die and place the bullet in the same empty case, rase the ram and lower the adjusting pin down until it touches the bullet, lower the ram and the adjusting on your die down by a few turns. Now rase the ram to sit your dummy round ( no primer or powder). Repeat this until the OAL of the cartridge is achieved. Mark this round so it doesn't get mixed up with life ammo and use it to adjust you bullet sitting die.
Thanks for the info!
You have a crimping groove on your bullets.The bullet seating die will do the crimp unless is backed up o about 3/4- 1/2 turn for the bullet setting. To achieve crimp you'll need to back up your bullit sitting pin and lower the die in small increments until the proper crimp is achieved. Crimping is useful for repeating actions not necessarily bolt actions or bullets w/o the groove. Be aware that over crimping will increase the chamber pressure
My notes to anyone thinking of reloading:
1) If you are easily distracted, don't like to follow or read instructions, cut corners because you think you might get away with it, don't have time or space, reloading may not be for you. Reloading can be safe or it can be dangerous. It is your choice.
2) If you are considering reloading to save money, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, locking rings, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of a hundred rounds in 1.5 hours with a material cost of under 20 cents a round. For .223 it takes closer to two hours for a hundred rounds and material cost comes to about 28 cents a round. This time includes, time spent on set up, take down and clean up.
3) It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench.
4) Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. Nickel plated brass is reloadable.
5) There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded. If you run them through a sizing or decapping or resizing die you will break the decapping pin.
6) A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out.
7) all the different company presses will hold all the different companies dies
8) because the inside of the neck is held against the depriming rod during the resizing step some of use lube the inside of the case neck
9) Many of us clean the lube off the brass before proceeding to the next step. There's lots of reasons
10) Rifle brass typically needs to be trimmed to length after resizing. Then it needs to be deburred.
Some good notes here.
good advice !
I'll add a comment.. a good way to get your starting seating measurement is to use a factory new bullet.. that'll help eliminate seating to low..
Good idea. I’ll try that... thank you for watching!
I like the video BUT REALLY LIKE HOW THE COMMENTS GIVE ADVICE AND ASK QUESTIONS! YOU GET SOME ASSHOLE COMMENTS BUT HEY … whatever thanks for the video and thanks to everybody not ball busting this guy and actually teaching him and giving advice! I’m the newest of newest of reloading and sometimes it’s overwhelming cause I’m so new I STARTED BECAUSE IT STOPS MY ADHD AND ANXIETY LOL LONG STORY BUT YEAH GOOD THINGS BUD! Thanks
You should show people a powder thrower. It saves a lot of time
I was wondering, he hand loaded the powder, but completely skipped the trimming brass part. Then of course it resulted in bullets not seating in the correct length.
You are learning remember less is better small increments when seating a bullet
I thought you did a great job 👏
How do you feel about just spray lubricant rather then rolling the cases on the pad,?
I find using the pad picks up a lot of dirt and dust, sawdust etc…?
I think the spray would work pretty good… but I would take a cotton ball and wipe off the excess of spray on the casing… reason being is when the lube starts to dries it tends get sticky and you don’t want to get your dies gummed up…
Thanks for the comment!
picked up the rcbs supreme ..i noticed there is a groove on the ram like its to pieces is that normal
Yes the groove is normal. It is for the primer that’s on the press. Thanks for the comment!
@@fallinbrass1599 just wanting to make sure...im talking about the same thing..at 13.47 as you look at the ram...it looks like 2 sections put together and as you run your finger down it theres a little lip
If you are talking about the top of the ram that’s the shell holder... if you are looking halfway down the ram it’s just an oil line on the ram... I hope that answers you’re question.😬
you diffidently answered my question..thanks
No case measuring seen, no case trimming seen, no chamfering or deburring seen????
Not trimming the case ???
I shot these cases only once... after a few times using them I will trim them. Thanks for watching!!
Ghetto way of reloading