Young man you have one of the key ingredients to being a good mechanic and that is a teachable spirit. The first step to gaining knowledge is to realize that you don’t know everything. The more I learn, the more that I realize I don’t know. At 64 I wish I had written down all those answers when I knew it all. Keep at it. Good job. You are on the right track.
Thank you for the kind words and guidance Sir. I will reiterate to myself that it is okay to not know it all. I bet what you would write down now would be as valuable , if not more than the answers of the past.
Very very good block of instruction, Sir! Thank you so much. I’ll actually attempt to install my own, now. However, the motor is no longer in the bike, so, no putting her in 5th gear and rotating. Thank you!
Back up 02:47 Never Pull the cover off before removing Pushrods the 170 pounds on each rod can bend the crankshaft pinion gear without the bushing in place Valve seat Pressure is 680 # on the Crank if valves are open 1400 pounds on the crank , Cam cover has 2 bushings for support. 7:07 Do not count on this working for proper cam end play , the gasket for the cam cover can be .025 to .040 th thick , your cam end play should be .001 to 0.15 on end play . Breather Has to be shim for end play .005 to .015 To get the right fit use a straight edge over crank case with the gasket in place and take a reading to the breather and cam with a feeler gauge , Gasket will mash .005 subtract the mash . 10:45 Not all Lifters work the same some are only finger tight others finger tight and 2 and half turn to 3 turns 0.100 th lash on the lifter , and let bleed down 15 to 30 minutes if you do not get bleed down back off only finger tighten. DO NOT TURN ENGINE OVER TILL YOU HAVE BLEED DOWN < a Pumped up lifter can damage a Valve piston to valve . I know your going by the Book but you jumped way ahead On this stuff that can Blow a Engine on start up or in a few hundred miles if not done right.
Your rite, guy is doing this job completely wrong. Caint belive he poped open the cam cover with the valves still under pressure. Nowadays i make sure the evo bikes i purchase are completely stock with the rivits still on the points cover, like that i know nobody opend it up. Caint trust what previous owners did.
Thanks for all your feedback. I appreciate it and glad that my engine is still operational :) I hope this information helps the next reader/viewer. Thanks for also adding the links for the shims and lock washer.
your welcome , I did like your video . I know first hand what happens when its done wrong . My video cam only will do 1 minute video . 2010 a shop I used did not shim my cam or breather . It destroid the engine . .277th end play that's just over 1/4 inch the tappet block was the first to go and the rest in matter of minutes .
@@MaldonadosGarage did u tell Redback where you were off with he removal of the lifters and then the adjustment of them? Plus the breather measurements? Just because this guy Pat's you in the back. Doesn't mean you were right....
You still need to check the end play on the cam with the gasket and cam cover in place and the bolts torqued. Reach through the lifter block holes in the engine block and check with a feeler gauge
Was it noisey after you warmed it up? I was always told to put old stock cam gear on the new one. I did an EV27 in my 96 without doing it and it was fine. Going to do an S&S cam in my 97. Good job, only issue is make sure each cylinder was TDC before setting pushrods
The EV27 is a nasty sounding cam without the need for a bunch of headwork and heavier springs. The EV27 WILL be going in my ultra classic. I built a mild 80" evo for my 92 softail and the cam along with new wiseco high compression pistons and rings alone woke T/F out of that bike. I sure do miss that old bike! Great tutorial! Your bike sounds great! Dis you ever time it? If not, you're leaving alot of potential behind
....Did I miss the part about the importance of checking new cam to pinion gear fit ? If not done, you are mismatching the gears. Result is either whine or clatter...and premature wear. Check colour coding or use measurement pins....also, measurement of shim should include gasket compression...I believe both are right out of the manual and cam instructions...and shud be common HD knowledge.
Joe, you didn't miss it. I failed miserably on saying and showing it. When I reached this point all recording stopped; I was reading the manual and cam instructions terrified I was going to do it wrong. I had to order shims to get the correct spacing. I think my best bet now is to add a disclaimer. I didn't really find any videos out their with your knowledge that could help a #DIY guy. I figured an average #diy guy with a Harley probably knows they need to get instructions when performing an operation to this extent. but maybe not???. I am stoked about Pacific Mike sharing his extensive knowledge and experience with us all. I wish we would have started a lot sooner!!! If you havent seen his channel, I recommend you see how great it is. Thank you for pointing these very important points and helping me to know how to improve. Cheers!!!
Nice job and good installation with tips. I have a 93softail 80”evo runnin ev27 cams and I love it . How does it roll now and what’s the difference to you in the ‘ seat of the pants ‘ Dyno ?
Thank you, I recommend you read through the comments there was alot of valuable information provided by others as well. If you haven't already, get a manual for your scooter also.
One reason to keep the plastic breather gear is if something hard gets into the engine and hits that’s breather the plastic will give out and not wipe out the case..
I was hoping someone would mention that point. There's a reason why Harley used a plastic breather. Just make sure it's not missing teeth, if so, replace it.. with another PLASTIC breather. It was missing teeth for a reason. Like Justin pointed out, if something gets jammed in those teeth, something's gotta give- better a plastic breather than a case. Ride safe everybody.
Thanks for pointing that out Justin. This is great information that is valuable to ones consideration when asking him or her self, PLASTIC or STEEL breather valve... And THIS Ladies and Gentlemen is valuable information that should be considered... IMHO I think steel is a little stronger than plastic and wouldn't break, or at least one hopes not. I wish you all the very best and thank for sharing your opinion with information that will ultimately help the person watching make their decision.
It was original cam shaft needle bearing? How much run your bike on it? I decide do I need to change it on iron bearing because I heared the original one might fall apart. What do you think about it?
@@Kostopraff88 I think I was at about 25k miles. In all honesty I have heard and read different opinions, leave it change..... My opinion is to change it. I bought the bearing puller and installer kit off of EBay... no issue pulling or installing. What are you planning the work on?
Unfortunately I don’t have Inner Cam Bearing Puller and Installation Tool & One New Koyo-Torrington B-138 Bearing at the moment, first I need to buy it
Thanks for mentioning that.... I don't think I ran across an issues that the plastic breather caused.. Guess I could have spent that money towards something else.... Great point i did not mention for the end play...
2 ways to do it , cover on or cover off . But people forget to check breather shim , So I do it with cover off , place Gasket on the case use a straightedge and feeler gauge I try to get a 18th gauge between the strait edge and cam, pushed in , a gasket will close about 0.05 th when you tighten the bolts . Cam is .001 to .015 end play the breather 0.05 to 0.15 gap on end play S&S has the best Breather shims Ebay for 15 bucks 80th to 170th . Gaskets come in .025 to .040 Shims are the only way to close a gap use math add or subtract If the Gasket mush .005 and the Gap is 25th - 5 is 20 close it by 10 or15 th
Just saw your video and I think you forgot to mention the alignment of the lifter blocks to the oil holes with proper alignment tools, good job otherwise!
1st is my plastic breather with only 5,000 miles was missing teeth, when you installed pushrods you 4got to tell people wait till the 1st cylinder u adjusted bleed down b4 you even think about moving anything
pues muy bonito y muy lindo , pero no ensenas mucho , ni cuando quitas una piesa y ni cuando la pones , solo ya puesta , y son detalles muy importantes como la instalacion de los pushrods y su ajuste .. ., saludos y tengo una 90 y quiero ponerle un oil cooler ..
You do know on any flat tappet (non roller) when you first start it up. You should bring the rpm up to around 2000 rpm for at least 15 to 20 minutes. You can flatten a non roller cam very easily. I did this back before you were able to ride motorcycles. Maybe before you were born.....
@@MaldonadosGarage do you understand the theory about bending the crankshaft when leaving the pushrod in before removing the nose cone? Depending on how bad or if you bent the crankshaft. Your motor could vibrate itself apart in 5 miles to 5000 miles. Maybe more. These pressures are very high. Although I know guys that have been building harley's for 40 years who don't believe this theory. I always pull my pushrod first. Rather be safe then sorry. I started building Harley's back in 1964. Although it wasn't a new one then. That was a long time ago!! 🤗
I do understand, someone else also believes your theory on here. I do recall this topic now. I have well over 500 miles on her, hope it doesn't happen. Maybe I will take your approach on the next cam. You have building for years, that is awesome, once again thanks for you input here.
@@MaldonadosGarage you did a good job both with your bike and with your video. Can you go back in and edit that part to explain how to release pressure on the lifters before pulling the nose cone? I don't know how u-tube works. Like I said though. Pretty good video.
Reading the comments here remind me of why you never watch just one video of how to do something. There are a lot of easy to make mistakes carried out here that could prove to be very expensive. I think this guy got away with it more by luck than judgement. Look at JCcanU's comments below in particular. You have been warned.
Your video is kinda informative but you dont show anything being removed. You just point to something and say "remove this" and then you cut back and its already removed. Show how its removed. Not everyone has done this before.
Thanks for your feedback Millstar. I have definently worked on showing steps closer since this video. I would say that the service manual is the best place to get the exact steps... I will see if I can find you some videos or maybe I need to do another install in the 96 I picked up.... Once again, thanks for the feedback. Very valuable.
This is about the worst instructions ever, the guy didn't say the name of the cam bearing ,which HAS TO BE TORRINGTON, if not be ready to have the side of your case ripped out. google "Harley cam bearing trouble " in 1992 they stopped using the torrington 29 roller bearing in asteel cage instead they use a 18 roller bearing in a nylon cage , it wont stand up to a hotter cam.
you should install the cam the cover with the gasket and then no lifters install yet then move the cam back and forth to get the reading of cam play. just say`n... and yes you should remove the tension off the cam lifters first by removing the push rods presser not good to pull the support crank cover or called cam cover... and you did not really teach anything about the valve position to the lifters and how many turns in detail on correctly turning the adjusting nut and after you adjust a set of lifters wait about 30 mins before you move the engine ... let the oil bleed down in the lifters...
You didn't tell us that the OEM cam bearing has only 18 rollers in a nylon case, it can't stand up when a hotter cam is used . The bearing you need is a 29 roller bearing in a metal case . It's a torrington bearing,and harley always used them untill 1992 when they switched to the INA bearing. Next you didn't show how you held the tappets up when you slid the cam in . for those who have never done it , that can be a nightmare. Also never remove the cam cover with the OEM one piece push rods in place ,it exerts downward pressure on the bearing. Cut the OEM pushrods with biolt cutters , or remiove them by taking the riocker boxes off. If you cut them be sure to buy adjustable pushrods like S&S quicky pushrods , regular adjustable ones don't all colapse far enough to get them in place with the rocker boxes left on. very poor instruction video in my opinion.
Young man you have one of the key ingredients to being a good mechanic and that is a teachable spirit. The first step to gaining knowledge is to realize that you don’t know everything. The more I learn, the more that I realize I don’t know. At 64 I wish I had written down all those answers when I knew it all. Keep at it. Good job. You are on the right track.
Thank you for the kind words and guidance Sir. I will reiterate to myself that it is okay to not know it all. I bet what you would write down now would be as valuable , if not more than the answers of the past.
A good mechanic isn't always a good teacher . look at my comments above . I'd say a poor teacher indeed .
Very very good block of instruction, Sir! Thank you so much. I’ll actually attempt to install my own, now. However, the motor is no longer in the bike, so, no putting her in 5th gear and rotating. Thank you!
Very useful info for my current project, thank you!
Thanks for the upload, safe riding!🍻
Back up 02:47 Never Pull the cover off before removing Pushrods the 170 pounds on each rod can bend the crankshaft pinion gear without the bushing in place Valve seat Pressure is 680 # on the Crank if valves are open 1400 pounds on the crank , Cam cover has 2 bushings for support. 7:07 Do not count on this working for proper cam end play , the gasket for the cam cover can be .025 to .040 th thick , your cam end play should be .001 to 0.15 on end play . Breather Has to be shim for end play .005 to .015 To get the right fit use a straight edge over crank case with the gasket in place and take a reading to the breather and cam with a feeler gauge , Gasket will mash .005 subtract the mash . 10:45 Not all Lifters work the same some are only finger tight others finger tight and 2 and half turn to 3 turns 0.100 th lash on the lifter , and let bleed down 15 to 30 minutes if you do not get bleed down back off only finger tighten. DO NOT TURN ENGINE OVER TILL YOU HAVE BLEED DOWN < a Pumped up lifter can damage a Valve piston to valve . I know your going by the Book but you jumped way ahead On this stuff that can Blow a Engine on start up or in a few hundred miles if not done right.
Your rite, guy is doing this job completely wrong. Caint belive he poped open the cam cover with the valves still under pressure. Nowadays i make sure the evo bikes i purchase are completely stock with the rivits still on the points cover, like that i know nobody opend it up. Caint trust what previous owners did.
www.jpcycles.com/product/431-647/eastern-motorcycle-parts-cam-shims?mrkgadid=3300286647&rkg_id=0&Google+Shopping++Generic+-+Engines&product_id=431-647&adpos=1o1&creative=278867792141&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItKL-8uDB3QIVBi5pCh1d0wFIEAQYASABEgLJVfD_BwE
Thanks for all your feedback. I appreciate it and glad that my engine is still operational :) I hope this information helps the next reader/viewer. Thanks for also adding the links for the shims and lock washer.
Carlos, When you inspect the rivets on the points plate, how do you differentiate them from the replacement rivets?
your welcome , I did like your video . I know first hand what happens when its done wrong . My video cam only will do 1 minute video . 2010 a shop I used did not shim my cam or breather . It destroid the engine . .277th end play that's just over 1/4 inch the tappet block was the first to go and the rest in matter of minutes .
Thanks man! Clear and comprehensive 😉
Thanks for watching!
Thank you. I bought a motor with a flat spot on the cam. Good video
Hell yes! Looks/sounds great!
Thanks!!!
Doing an EV13 this weekend, thanks for the tips. My '88 Heritage should do well, may have to revisit exhaust...
Thanks for doing a very precise and well edited how to guide mate. EXACTLY what I needed. Cheers from Down Under 👍🏻
Cheers, thanks for watching and I hope it helped!
@@MaldonadosGarage did u tell Redback where you were off with he removal of the lifters and then the adjustment of them? Plus the breather measurements?
Just because this guy Pat's you in the back. Doesn't mean you were right....
Not sure what you mean by off. Instructions were provided by what was provided. Please share the breather measurements you are referring to.
do you have a video that works through tuning with ThunderMax after a cam swap?
Good video bro
Well done. Thank you.
Great video.
Great video
Sounds identical to mine...hopefully a previous owner did this to mine already!
That would be great!
Nice video, I have a little question.. did you add oil before adjust the push rods? Thank you sir.
Also to prevent the oil from pumping out when rotating the rear wheel in 5th gear , rotate it backwards .
You still need to check the end play on the cam with the gasket and cam cover in place and the bolts torqued. Reach through the lifter block holes in the engine block and check with a feeler gauge
Nice. Gonna add to my fuel injected 96 road king
Was it noisey after you warmed it up? I was always told to put old stock cam gear on the new one. I did an EV27 in my 96 without doing it and it was fine. Going to do an S&S cam in my 97. Good job, only issue is make sure each cylinder was TDC before setting pushrods
I used the Andrews EV27 great cam
Awesome, that's a nice cam!
The EV27 is a nasty sounding cam without the need for a bunch of headwork and heavier springs. The EV27 WILL be going in my ultra classic. I built a mild 80" evo for my 92 softail and the cam along with new wiseco high compression pistons and rings alone woke T/F out of that bike. I sure do miss that old bike! Great tutorial! Your bike sounds great! Dis you ever time it? If not, you're leaving alot of potential behind
....Did I miss the part about the importance of checking new cam to pinion gear fit ? If not done, you are mismatching the gears. Result is either whine or clatter...and premature wear. Check colour coding or use measurement pins....also, measurement of shim should include gasket compression...I believe both are right out of the manual and cam instructions...and shud be common HD knowledge.
Joe, you didn't miss it. I failed miserably on saying and showing it. When I reached this point all recording stopped; I was reading the manual and cam instructions terrified I was going to do it wrong. I had to order shims to get the correct spacing. I think my best bet now is to add a disclaimer. I didn't really find any videos out their with your knowledge that could help a #DIY guy. I figured an average #diy guy with a Harley probably knows they need to get instructions when performing an operation to this extent. but maybe not???.
I am stoked about Pacific Mike sharing his extensive knowledge and experience with us all. I wish we would have started a lot sooner!!! If you havent seen his channel, I recommend you see how great it is. Thank you for pointing these very important points and helping me to know how to improve. Cheers!!!
Well Done
Awesome
Nice job and good installation with tips. I have a 93softail 80”evo runnin ev27 cams and I love it . How does it roll now and what’s the difference to you in the ‘ seat of the pants ‘ Dyno ?
Thanks for the compliments. I have not dyno'd, but difference from before is definently better. She picks up speed very quickly now.
Maldonado's Garage good to know as I’m going to go with the ev13.
Timing is everything! Those changes definitely require timing adjustments! Great sounding bike, but sounds like you need to remove some advancement.
I didnt time it.... I ended up with a Stroked 89"
What cam bearing removal/ install tools did you use?
www.ebay.com/itm/271174444010
@@MaldonadosGarage
Thanks, I enjoyed the video
Thank you, I recommend you read through the comments there was alot of valuable information provided by others as well. If you haven't already, get a manual for your scooter also.
One reason to keep the plastic breather gear is if something hard gets into the engine and hits that’s breather the plastic will give out and not wipe out the case..
Thanks for the explanation.
I was hoping someone would mention that point. There's a reason why Harley used a plastic breather. Just make sure it's not missing teeth, if so, replace it.. with another PLASTIC breather. It was missing teeth for a reason. Like Justin pointed out, if something gets jammed in those teeth, something's gotta give- better a plastic breather than a case. Ride safe everybody.
Thanks for pointing that out Justin. This is great information that is valuable to ones consideration when asking him or her self, PLASTIC or STEEL breather valve...
And THIS Ladies and Gentlemen is valuable information that should be considered...
IMHO I think steel is a little stronger than plastic and wouldn't break, or at least one hopes not.
I wish you all the very best and thank for sharing your opinion with information that will ultimately help the person watching make their decision.
Something I never knew, cheers mate!
Vary nice work big guy" How is the power now? "Be Safe"
Kool tx
It was original cam shaft needle bearing? How much run your bike on it? I decide do I need to change it on iron bearing because I heared the original one might fall apart. What do you think about it?
If you are in there already, I would say replace it.
I didn’t start yet
@@Kostopraff88 I think I was at about 25k miles. In all honesty I have heard and read different opinions, leave it change..... My opinion is to change it. I bought the bearing puller and installer kit off of EBay... no issue pulling or installing. What are you planning the work on?
Unfortunately I don’t have Inner Cam Bearing Puller and Installation Tool & One New Koyo-Torrington B-138 Bearing at the moment, first I need to buy it
Did u put thrust washer in also or leave it out in place of the shim?
I put the thrust washer back in..
I used this page along with the manual... hope it helps!
www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdcaminstall00.htm
Thanks for the fast reply. Much appreciated
@@eliking7391 No problem, hope your install goes well!
Nice job! What brand of pipes are those?,they look sweet!
Thank, I didnt mention in the video but you have to make sure to get the right spacing (shim spacers)... pipes are big growl...
Plastic breather doesn't hurt the case! Also check cam end play with gasket and cone installed!
Thanks for mentioning that.... I don't think I ran across an issues that the plastic breather caused.. Guess I could have spent that money towards something else.... Great point i did not mention for the end play...
Maldonado's Garage they do a a stationary breather with Reed valves,no gear too!
how do you measure the end play?
2 ways to do it , cover on or cover off . But people forget to check breather shim , So I do it with cover off , place Gasket on the case use a straightedge and feeler gauge I try to get a 18th gauge between the strait edge and cam, pushed in , a gasket will close about 0.05 th when you tighten the bolts . Cam is .001 to .015 end play the breather 0.05 to 0.15 gap on end play S&S has the best Breather shims Ebay for 15 bucks 80th to 170th . Gaskets come in .025 to .040 Shims are the only way to close a gap use math add or subtract If the Gasket mush .005 and the Gap is 25th - 5 is 20 close it by 10 or15 th
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Just gonna stick that bearing in there dry?
Harley needs to go back to a gear drive motor in their new M8 and go gear drive primary with a single hole oil fill.
DO CAM TO PINION !!! VERY IMPORTANT!!
Just saw your video and I think you forgot to mention the alignment of the lifter blocks to the oil holes with proper alignment tools, good job otherwise!
Great feedback Thunderbikestaos, greatly appreciated. Thank you for you comment, and for watching and providing valuable feedback.
what kind of pipes are those they are sweet
www.ultimaproducts.com/exhaust.html 60-310 (bottom of page)
1st is my plastic breather with only 5,000 miles was missing teeth, when you installed pushrods you 4got to tell people wait till the 1st cylinder u adjusted bleed down b4 you even think about moving anything
Great catch Harley Boy, thanks for the feedback, I am sure it will help.
Where are you located? I’d like you to install a cam on my 92 Evo
Hi Rich, hope you're better than great. I am in AZ.
Trying to find time to mess with the bikes ... Where are you located?
@@MaldonadosGarage bro, I live in LA and there aren’t too many good old school shops here that know what they are doing.
Alot simpler on the Evo than the Twin Cam .
This is true. Hope you are having a great one!!!
you can take an extension and a hammer and tap the gasket and usually it will break right loose saves a lot of scraping
pues muy bonito y muy lindo , pero no ensenas mucho , ni cuando quitas una piesa y ni cuando la pones , solo ya puesta , y son detalles muy importantes como la instalacion de los pushrods y su ajuste .. ., saludos y tengo una 90 y quiero ponerle un oil cooler ..
You do know on any flat tappet (non roller) when you first start it up. You should bring the rpm up to around 2000 rpm for at least 15 to 20 minutes. You can flatten a non roller cam very easily.
I did this back before you were able to ride motorcycles. Maybe before you were born.....
I did not know this Lee. I did not read this anywhere. Thank you for bringing this to attention!
@@MaldonadosGarage do you understand the theory about bending the crankshaft when leaving the pushrod in before removing the nose cone? Depending on how bad or if you bent the crankshaft. Your motor could vibrate itself apart in 5 miles to 5000 miles. Maybe more. These pressures are very high. Although I know guys that have been building harley's for 40 years who don't believe this theory.
I always pull my pushrod first. Rather be safe then sorry. I started building Harley's back in 1964. Although it wasn't a new one then. That was a long time ago!! 🤗
I do understand, someone else also believes your theory on here. I do recall this topic now. I have well over 500 miles on her, hope it doesn't happen. Maybe I will take your approach on the next cam. You have building for years, that is awesome, once again thanks for you input here.
@@MaldonadosGarage you did a good job both with your bike and with your video.
Can you go back in and edit that part to explain how to release pressure on the lifters before pulling the nose cone? I don't know how u-tube works.
Like I said though. Pretty good video.
Thank you. I can't edit, but I will make a video explaining then drop it in as a pop up so they can see the video.
I guess that's one way to get push rods out. Lmfao
This is bad ass. I need this in my fat boy.
Are you going to go ahead and ah.....
Reading the comments here remind me of why you never watch just one video of how to do something. There are a lot of easy to make mistakes carried out here that could prove to be very expensive. I think this guy got away with it more by luck than judgement. Look at JCcanU's comments below in particular. You have been warned.
Nex... 😂
Your video is kinda informative but you dont show anything being removed. You just point to something and say "remove this" and then you cut back and its already removed. Show how its removed. Not everyone has done this before.
Thanks for your feedback Millstar. I have definently worked on showing steps closer since this video.
I would say that the service manual is the best place to get the exact steps...
I will see if I can find you some videos or maybe I need to do another install in the 96 I picked up....
Once again, thanks for the feedback. Very valuable.
This is about the worst instructions ever, the guy didn't say the name of the cam bearing ,which HAS TO BE TORRINGTON, if not be ready to have the side of your case ripped out. google "Harley cam bearing trouble " in 1992 they stopped using the torrington 29 roller bearing in asteel cage instead they use a 18 roller bearing in a nylon cage , it wont stand up to a hotter cam.
Plastic breather only plastic shims, and steel breather only steel shims!!!!!
you should install the cam the cover with the gasket and then no lifters install yet then move the cam back and forth to get the reading of cam play. just say`n... and yes you should remove the tension off the cam lifters first by removing the push rods presser not good to pull the support crank cover or called cam cover... and you did not really teach anything about the valve position to the lifters and how many turns in detail on correctly turning the adjusting nut and after you adjust a set of lifters wait about 30 mins before you move the engine ... let the oil bleed down in the lifters...
You didn't tell us that the OEM cam bearing has only 18 rollers in a nylon case, it can't stand up when a hotter cam is used . The bearing you need is a 29 roller bearing in a metal case . It's a torrington bearing,and harley always used them untill 1992 when they switched to the INA bearing. Next you didn't show how you held the tappets up when you slid the cam in . for those who have never done it , that can be a nightmare. Also never remove the cam cover with the OEM one piece push rods in place ,it exerts downward pressure on the bearing. Cut the OEM pushrods with biolt cutters , or remiove them by taking the riocker boxes off. If you cut them be sure to buy adjustable pushrods like S&S quicky pushrods , regular adjustable ones don't all colapse far enough to get them in place with the rocker boxes left on. very poor instruction video in my opinion.