Bluecast XOne Version 2 Re-Review

You asked, and although it took us a while to get to it, here is our opinion the Bluecast XOne revision.
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[@Microwavingmetal]

Awesome review 👏

[@RRSF09]

I checked on Bluecast's site for the exposure settings for the X-One V2 to use on my Phrozen Mini 8K and only see the settings for the 4K. Would you mind sharing the settings that you used, I ordered some after seeing your review and want to give it a go. Thanks!

[@jamessalisbury3320]

Hi CMC thanks for the feedback and again a well made experiment,test and trials. I’ve got a question if you don’t mind? When your using your printers with bluecast x1v2, do you use a certain release liner for your resin tray or do you use the factory brand for that certain printer?
Bluecast recommendations are elegoo’s FEP 2.0
What’s your opinion on this or do you follow suit?
Some might say n-fep, acf,fep 2.0 etc are just sales tax tics and they just the same with a different name and colour (acf)😂
I do believe FEP 2.0 by elegoo. Makes a difference.
Thank you and can’t wait for your next one. 😊

[@ClearMindJewellery]

What matters more in my opinion is thickness. A 0.127 will release better then a 0.15 for example.
We have tried the elegoo nFEP, but are running with generic at the moment. It’s cheaper, easier to get, and the “fancy stuff” doesn’t make a large enough difference imo to change over all our printers.
If you can get 1.27 nFEP at a decent price and only have the one machine it might be worth experiencing.

[@rwhoney]

I have a b9 printer and would like to try the bluecast x one v2 and was told that the black settings would work. Do you know if that is true or do you have any ideas what to do?

[@mikemagners1004]

As a new designer, about to start printing, my first 3-D prints, which is the best resin you do recommend that covers all fields

[@ClearMindJewellery]

It’s coming to a point that a lot of resins are getting focused down, as it’s becoming harder to do everything well as more techniques are becoming mainstream (example: finding one resin that can do large prints, print in place trees, and stone setting would be a tremendous undertaking.)
However, some resins that cover the most of the gambit would be power resins vintage on the higher end as it can do larger objects, smaller filigree style objects and stone in-place casting, although we have yet to fully test the stone in-place casting capabilities ourselves.
A good quality lower budget will be apply lab work cyan as this is an inexpensive workhorse that can do print in place trees, large objects, as well as small detailed objects.
Monocure 3D burn away is not bad if you value time above doing larger objects.
However, if you have a niche that you specifically work in for your business, I would recommend investigating other resins that are more suited to that niche.

[@blakehynek1967]

Can you please take a picture of the 99% alcohol that your using I keep having problems 😭 right now I’m using 99% ipa. I would really appreciate it

[@ClearMindJewellery]

What are the problems you are having? It shouldn't be a huge deal which brand you are using as long as it's above 90%.

[@TurdFergusen]

gosh that color is so much easier to see than siraya tech purple

[@ClearMindJewellery]

I really hate the purple resins that are only marginally opaque or are really shiny. Makes quality control difficult without specific lighting.

[@fionayang3668]

How do you think this compares to Power Resin Vintage? Which would be better for printing details?

[@stevenjus2266]

id say vintage, and the casting is much better too

[@ClearMindJewellery]

Depends on the details. Thin filagree and items that require structure or unique supporting, use vintage. Items that have debossed or embossed details like lettering, use Bluecast XOne.

[@tomgrimes2674]

@@ClearMindJewelleryI’m mostly doing stuff with embossed (engraved) lettering, I tried using Vintage and it’s having some issues (I’m using external casting houses). I believe their burnouts are part of general wax tree so probably not paying close attention to power resins recommended burnout.
You said you recommended bluecast for embossed lettering, is that because of PRINTABILITY or CASTABILITY? Do you think bluecast would be more tolerant of different burnout cycles (ie ones used for regular waxes)
Thanks heaps in advance

[@ClearMindJewellery]

@@tomgrimes2674 we recommend Bluecast XOne because of the low melting point. In the past we have taken a heat gun to it and it started to wilt the print.
If you are sending the prints to a casting house and they DO NOT specialize in casting prints I would A) get a break down of their process so you can see if its compatible with casting prints, or B) if they won't tell you what the process is and the results are continuously and evenly poor for all prints, switch casting houses.
Generally casting houses that only work in wax will have issues due to plaster investment type, burnout process, and general knowledge.
Bluecast XOne with the low melting point may help with your texture issues if it's specifically an investment choice and burnout schedule issue. As bluecasts xone has been known to work with extremely rapid burnouts.