Thanks for that Max - little tip for those who just have a clogged filter sock but the pump is fine - amayama has replacement socks for $30. Typically takes a few weeks to arrive where I am (NZ), so in the meantime, you can take the sock off, give it a good soak in some clean fuel, brush out what you can with a toothbrush, and give it a good blast with some compressed air. Cleans it up enough to last until the spare part arrives, and doesn't require full disassembly.
Do you mean fuel gauge? The fuel sender unit is located in the tank and is part of the fuel module. Check for connections at the tank. You will need to use an adjustable resistor of some description across the wires to see if the gauge responds. If it does, then most likely, you have a faulty tank sender unit. If not you will need to look at the gauge or wiring in between. It also depends if the fuel gauge goes through the Body Management System. Check for fault codes as well.
Thanks for the video, very helpful! Just wondering, how did you go about cleaning the fuel sock? So far I've just tried cold water but that doesn't seem to have done anything
You can buy them as a separate item, not included in the fuel filter kit (for some strange reason). I just clean them with clean fuel and make sure that they are OK to refit.
Actually Bae Lasso, that's fairly standard for a fuel module, which is common now. At least the tank didn't have to come out. With some vehicles, the tank needs to be removed, which includes removing the exhaust, tailshaft & some suspension components. Thanks for your comments. 😉
@@MiracleMAX I just wish they would sale a complete assembly of it, so we could buy one, put it in, and only connect that oil tube and wire connector 😁
Does the 2010 Model also have an In-Tank Fuel filter and not the Cannister fuel filter ? i was sold the Cannister Fuel filter and cant seem to find it under the car? please help
As mentioned in the video, the filter is kept inside the top of the 'casing' as you call it. czcams.com/video/b6VP8YQmk80/video.html The goal was to replace the filter as part of the manufacturers maintenance schedule, not the pump as it was operating correctly.
Thanks for the video Miracle Max, I've replaced the whole pump with it's assembly due to a faulty fuel regulator and the pump's getting old anyway. However i found out that the new fuel pump Guage is inaccurate as i filled the tank to the brim but the guage has 1 bar left to the Full tank indicator. Can we perform some sort of calibration to correct this? Would appreciate your advice on this.
You may find that you have something caught around the float. I've been caught out by that before. Best way is to remove the pump, then do a full sweep of the float with it out of the tank so that you can see if it is getting caught
Thanks for the helpful video! My Mazda 2 is at 160,000km Just replaced the fuel filter as per your video. Car won’t start I’ve tried a few times The filter was installed correctly I took it out and checked again. Obviously I’ve done something wrong, do you have any advice?
The idea of replacing the filter is to protect the pump, injectors as well as all areas of the fuel system. If not done regularly, you risk replacing the pump as well. This Mazda 2 was a 2007 model with high kilometers. The filter should be replaced every 150,000 Km on this model. VE Commodore needs to have the tank removed to access the filter. rycofilters.com.au/part/Z888 czcams.com/video/GA2OJuejs_8/video.html
@@MiracleMAX No worries. I was just curious as the intake fuel filter assembly is different to the canister-tyoe filters that other cars have underneath. I enjoyed your video though
Great video, very detailed. I didn’t know replacement of the fuel filter was that involved. I stumbled across this video while trying to diagnose my own Mazda 2 that looks to have an intermittently starting fuel pump. More so after sitting for a while. A few cycles of the key generally gets it going. Sometimes along with an unusual noise as the pump primes.I have already changed the fuel pump relay, so am thinking the next step is to check power at the pump once I work out the pin outs. Does this sound like a faulty pump? Filter was changed as scheduled around 16 months ago. Keep up the good work and informative videos.
Hey Tdub, The best way to check for voltages is at the fuel pump connector. Usually the pump has 2 thick wires going to it. You can also see if the fuel pump is worn by using an oscilloscope and a current clamp. czcams.com/video/vrK2rruUknE/video.html If it doesn't prime straight away, get underneath the car and kick the tank - sometimes that will get the pump up and running. Obviously at that point, it shows the pump needs replacement.
Thanks , will try all that. It’s very intermittent which makes it harder to catch it in the act! Would you know if these Mazda 2 pumps are the variable type? Ie: 12volts to the pump when priming or under full open and a lesser voltage applied when normally running? it’s the prime on this one that is intermittent.
@@tdub5899 You can see on the video that there is only one pipe going to the pump. This must be a returnless system, with the regulator built into the fuel module. It will most likely use a pulse width modulated signal. Hard starting as a result of low fuel pressure can be a faulty non-return valve in the pump. Unfortunately it is built into the pump and the pump would require replacement if that was the fault. Or it could indicate a leak somewhere - perhaps the hose that goes from the pump to the outlet of the module.
@MiracleMAX thx for the reply. The reason I ask is bc I just bought one today and after looking underneath the gas tank I noticed 2 holes (factory made by the looks of it) and one of them is plugged with a rubber plug the second one looks like it should have a plug as well but instead it has duct tape from the inside with the glue towards the outside of the hole. Does the gas tank have a metal plate/cover on and maybe that's what I'm looking at insteadof the actual gas tank? I'm afraid to poke it.
@@whyisthisnottyping You are right. It is most likely a fuel tank guard. There is no way a fuel tank would have a rubber bung. The floor itself quite often has drain holes that have rubber bungs fitted.
Hey Arnold, That is a broad question. Does it have any fault codes? What is the fuel pressure? Is it serviced regularly? Are the fuel and air filters clean? Is there sufficient fuel in the tank? When did this start to happen? Is the exhaust blocked? Is the check engine light on the dash?
Heii is it serviced regulary but the filters i don,t know when they was changhe the car is not mine is to a friend of mine tank is full i just know this friend of mine she go with the car with this problem for 3 years..is not accelerating and is not any light on in dash
@@arnoldschiopu2298 As I said, it could be a long list that needs to be checked. Pretty hard to give advice without all the details in front of me. You would need to do a thorough check over of individual systems to narrow down the diagnosis. Do you have a scan tool, not a code reader? Can a volumetric efficiency test be carried out? What are the MAF sensor readings at idle and 2000RPM? Has the exhaust been checked for blockages?
No i don,t have a scan tool and she was not checked the exhaust i try to find out from internet the problem but i don,t find what exacly is it i make an appointment next week to mazda service . Thank you for your answers
@@MiracleMAX Sorry let me rephrase the question. Do these mechanical procedures, removal methods apply to the next generation mazda 2 2015 and beyond. Thx and nice work with the fuel filter.
@@taichihead42 Hey G G, It looks like they are still located under the back seat, so it should be a similar method www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/part/index/part/Z986
Top video mate just what I was looking for, Very Helpful. Need to replace my Maz 3 in-tank filter. I'm guessing it's the same part number. That sock at the bottom of the assembly, what does that do? it kind of looks like a filter also.
Hey Steve, The sock is a filter - a first stage filter. It strains out small animals, rocks or anything of that size. 😉 They don't come with a filter kit, but if you think of it, it's not a bad idea to install a new one when the pump module is out to do the filter. You'll have to order it separate. You can use a search engine like this to find the correct part. rycofilters.com.au/search/type/-
@@MiracleMAX Thanks for the reply Max. Just want your opinion. I had a look under the back seat of my Maz3 and the hole is only half the size, enough to only disconnect the fuel pump and fuel line. In another video a bloke had cut the hole bigger to access and remove the unit. These designs have got me buggered. It's either I do the same or pay a Mazda dealership 700 bucks because they have to drop the tank. If that was you, would you just enlarge the access hole? Cheers mate
Hey Steve, As frustrating as it is, I would drop the tank. I couldn't professionally hack a bigger hole in my customers vehicle to gain access. Stupid of Mazda to make the hole so small? Yes! Other manufactures do the same. My reputation wouldn't allow me to do a hack job for a customer.
This is called a fuel module, which includes the pump, filter, in some cases the pressure regulator and fuel sender unit. The filter should be replaced on a regular basis according to the manufacturer's requirements
@@MiracleMAX Dis connecting the battery guarantees no possible short when working with electrics around an open gas tank - The potential for an ignition source is eliminated .
This style is known as an 'in-tank fuel filter'. The filter is incorporated in the top of the fuel module, which includes the pump, which I changed over into the new filter assembly. rycofilters.com.au/part/Z897
Thanks for that Max - little tip for those who just have a clogged filter sock but the pump is fine - amayama has replacement socks for $30. Typically takes a few weeks to arrive where I am (NZ), so in the meantime, you can take the sock off, give it a good soak in some clean fuel, brush out what you can with a toothbrush, and give it a good blast with some compressed air. Cleans it up enough to last until the spare part arrives, and doesn't require full disassembly.
Thanks for the heads up. I've not heard of them before. They look very similar to Partsouq. I'll put them in my favourites list and give them a go! 😉👍
Hi MM, thx for the vid. Always a fun job, and great relief with the creaking plastic tabs.
Thanks mate. You always are waiting for one of those plastic tabs to break. Fortunately, I've never had that happen.
Excellent video. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks Max.
You are welcome! 😉
Nice job. I’m in the states and can’t find just the filter hat like you have. Just the entire fuel assembly for $550 usd
OK. We have them easily available over here. It should be replaced during its regular scheduled maintenance.
كل الشكر .شرح جميل ومفيد
Thanks for your comment 😉
Muy buen video , saludos desde Honduras
Thanks, enjoy the channel! 🤗
Thank you for the great video, can you pls tell me what to do if benzinemeter does not work and where is the benzinemeter sensor?
Do you mean fuel gauge? The fuel sender unit is located in the tank and is part of the fuel module. Check for connections at the tank. You will need to use an adjustable resistor of some description across the wires to see if the gauge responds. If it does, then most likely, you have a faulty tank sender unit. If not you will need to look at the gauge or wiring in between. It also depends if the fuel gauge goes through the Body Management System. Check for fault codes as well.
Thanks for the video, very helpful! Just wondering, how did you go about cleaning the fuel sock? So far I've just tried cold water but that doesn't seem to have done anything
You can buy them as a separate item, not included in the fuel filter kit (for some strange reason). I just clean them with clean fuel and make sure that they are OK to refit.
That's a lot of work!
Actually Bae Lasso, that's fairly standard for a fuel module, which is common now.
At least the tank didn't have to come out. With some vehicles, the tank needs to be removed, which includes removing the exhaust, tailshaft & some suspension components.
Thanks for your comments. 😉
@@MiracleMAX I just wish they would sale a complete assembly of it, so we could buy one, put it in, and only connect that oil tube and wire connector 😁
@@BaeLasso I believe that you would get that if you bought a complete fuel module.
Stupid design
Does the 2010 Model also have an In-Tank Fuel filter and not the Cannister fuel filter ? i was sold the Cannister Fuel filter and cant seem to find it under the car? please help
Depending which country you are from, I would use a parts application guide like this one.
rycofilters.com.au/search/type/-
but what good have you done here if you only replaced the casing? you still use the same old pump and filter, i don't understand
As mentioned in the video, the filter is kept inside the top of the 'casing' as you call it. czcams.com/video/b6VP8YQmk80/video.html
The goal was to replace the filter as part of the manufacturers maintenance schedule, not the pump as it was operating correctly.
We need fuel filter assembly and housing for Mazda 2 Demio 1.5 old shape
Sorry, not sure what you are asking.
Thanks for the video Miracle Max, I've replaced the whole pump with it's assembly due to a faulty fuel regulator and the pump's getting old anyway. However i found out that the new fuel pump Guage is inaccurate as i filled the tank to the brim but the guage has 1 bar left to the Full tank indicator. Can we perform some sort of calibration to correct this? Would appreciate your advice on this.
You may find that you have something caught around the float. I've been caught out by that before. Best way is to remove the pump, then do a full sweep of the float with it out of the tank so that you can see if it is getting caught
Thanks for the helpful video!
My Mazda 2 is at 160,000km
Just replaced the fuel filter as per your video.
Car won’t start
I’ve tried a few times
The filter was installed correctly I took it out and checked again.
Obviously I’ve done something wrong, do you have any advice?
Can you hear the fuel pump operating? Has it blown a fuse? Is fuel being pumped out? Have you primed the pump?
@@MiracleMAX it was the small hose that you clip into the old part that stays with the fuel filter etc. it wasn’t pushed all the way in 😵💫😂
@@youraussiematedean2506 Glad you were able to find the fault. A great learning lesson - well done!
@@MiracleMAX thanks for the video mate! Maybe this comment helps someone ha ha. All the best
How often would you recommend doing this and also how often to change the external fuel filter? Thanks so much for your great video.
Que buen video justo lo que necesitaba pero porque no cambiaste el prefiltro también ?
Yes that would have been a good idea to replace the sock filter, but unfortunately, it didn't come with the kit.
How often should it be replaced? Doesn't look like needs replacement ever
According to the manufacturers service schedule, it should be replaced every 150,000 km, more if dirty fuel has contaminated the system.
Es verdaderamente engorroso... Mejor poner algún filtro en la línea de combustible :)
You are right Roberto, a filter in line would be better! 😉
Goodness, could it be any easier???
Thanks for your comment 😉
Do you have any videos of a 2003 mazda demio fuel filter replacement? Would be greatly appreciative
No sorry, but you can use the search bar on the channel to look for other relevant videos 😉
Thanks Max, what year model & kms, I would like to do ours 09 but i'll wait till it plays up. What a poofter design F me. Is the VE comm the same?
The idea of replacing the filter is to protect the pump, injectors as well as all areas of the fuel system. If not done regularly, you risk replacing the pump as well. This Mazda 2 was a 2007 model with high kilometers. The filter should be replaced every 150,000 Km on this model.
VE Commodore needs to have the tank removed to access the filter.
rycofilters.com.au/part/Z888
czcams.com/video/GA2OJuejs_8/video.html
Great video but was hoping to see what the filter assembly looked like….
The filter assembly is what I replaced. The filter element is kept inside the top of the module. It's just a pleated paper based filter.
@@MiracleMAX No worries. I was just curious as the intake fuel filter assembly is different to the canister-tyoe filters that other cars have underneath. I enjoyed your video though
Great video, very detailed. I didn’t know replacement of the fuel filter was that involved. I stumbled across this video while trying to diagnose my own Mazda 2 that looks to have an intermittently starting fuel pump. More so after sitting for a while. A few cycles of the key generally gets it going. Sometimes along with an unusual noise as the pump primes.I have already changed the fuel pump relay, so am thinking the next step is to check power at the pump once I work out the pin outs. Does this sound like a faulty pump? Filter was changed as scheduled around 16 months ago. Keep up the good work and informative videos.
Hey Tdub,
The best way to check for voltages is at the fuel pump connector. Usually the pump has 2 thick wires going to it. You can also see if the fuel pump is worn by using an oscilloscope and a current clamp.
czcams.com/video/vrK2rruUknE/video.html
If it doesn't prime straight away, get underneath the car and kick the tank - sometimes that will get the pump up and running. Obviously at that point, it shows the pump needs replacement.
Thanks , will try all that. It’s very intermittent which makes it harder to catch it in the act! Would you know if these Mazda 2 pumps are the variable type? Ie: 12volts to the pump when priming or under full open and a lesser voltage applied when normally running? it’s the prime on this one that is intermittent.
@@tdub5899 You can see on the video that there is only one pipe going to the pump. This must be a returnless system, with the regulator built into the fuel module. It will most likely use a pulse width modulated signal.
Hard starting as a result of low fuel pressure can be a faulty non-return valve in the pump. Unfortunately it is built into the pump and the pump would require replacement if that was the fault.
Or it could indicate a leak somewhere - perhaps the hose that goes from the pump to the outlet of the module.
Thanks for replying. I’ll try and report back what I find in the hope it saves someone else some effort. Thanks again. Great channel.
@@tdub5899 It's great to share the knowledge around 👍
Would the gas tank have a rubber plug in the bottom.
And would it leak fuel from there if damaged?
No the tank does not have a rubber drain plug. I suggest you look for damaged hoses above the tank, unless the tank is physically damaged.
@MiracleMAX thx for the reply.
The reason I ask is bc I just bought one today and after looking underneath the gas tank I noticed 2 holes (factory made by the looks of it) and one of them is plugged with a rubber plug the second one looks like it should have a plug as well but instead it has duct tape from the inside with the glue towards the outside of the hole.
Does the gas tank have a metal plate/cover on and maybe that's what I'm looking at insteadof the actual gas tank?
I'm afraid to poke it.
@@whyisthisnottyping You are right. It is most likely a fuel tank guard. There is no way a fuel tank would have a rubber bung. The floor itself quite often has drain holes that have rubber bungs fitted.
Would this be the same for a 2010 petrol model?
The 2010 appears to be an in-tank filter, so the fitting method should be the same.
Hello i have a mazda 2 ,2011 and is not accelerating in speed 2,3,4,5 more than 40km/h what she can be the problem ?
Hey Arnold,
That is a broad question.
Does it have any fault codes? What is the fuel pressure? Is it serviced regularly? Are the fuel and air filters clean? Is there sufficient fuel in the tank? When did this start to happen? Is the exhaust blocked? Is the check engine light on the dash?
Heii is it serviced regulary but the filters i don,t know when they was changhe the car is not mine is to a friend of mine tank is full i just know this friend of mine she go with the car with this problem for 3 years..is not accelerating and is not any light on in dash
We live in germany and the services they say the car is ok all the time but never check acceleration she pass even the big control last year
@@arnoldschiopu2298 As I said, it could be a long list that needs to be checked. Pretty hard to give advice without all the details in front of me. You would need to do a thorough check over of individual systems to narrow down the diagnosis. Do you have a scan tool, not a code reader? Can a volumetric efficiency test be carried out? What are the MAF sensor readings at idle and 2000RPM? Has the exhaust been checked for blockages?
No i don,t have a scan tool and she was not checked the exhaust i try to find out from internet the problem but i don,t find what exacly is it i make an appointment next week to mazda service . Thank you for your answers
Can you tell me if these instruments apply to 2019 mazda
Sorry, what do you mean by instruments?
@@MiracleMAX Sorry let me rephrase the question. Do these mechanical procedures, removal methods apply to the next generation mazda 2 2015 and beyond. Thx and nice work with the fuel filter.
@@taichihead42 Hey G G,
It looks like they are still located under the back seat, so it should be a similar method
www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/part/index/part/Z986
Top video mate just what I was looking for, Very Helpful.
Need to replace my Maz 3 in-tank filter. I'm guessing it's the same part number.
That sock at the bottom of the assembly, what does that do? it kind of looks like a filter also.
Hey Steve,
The sock is a filter - a first stage filter. It strains out small animals, rocks or anything of that size. 😉
They don't come with a filter kit, but if you think of it, it's not a bad idea to install a new one when the pump module is out to do the filter. You'll have to order it separate.
You can use a search engine like this to find the correct part.
rycofilters.com.au/search/type/-
@@MiracleMAX Thanks for the reply Max. Just want your opinion. I had a look under the back seat of my Maz3 and the hole is only half the size, enough to only disconnect the fuel pump and fuel line. In another video a bloke had cut the hole bigger to access and remove the unit. These designs have got me buggered. It's either I do the same or pay a Mazda dealership 700 bucks because they have to drop the tank. If that was you, would you just enlarge the access hole? Cheers mate
Hey Steve,
As frustrating as it is, I would drop the tank. I couldn't professionally hack a bigger hole in my customers vehicle to gain access. Stupid of Mazda to make the hole so small? Yes! Other manufactures do the same. My reputation wouldn't allow me to do a hack job for a customer.
@@MiracleMAX Thanks Max, I appreciate your honesty.
كيفية فك الدينمو وتركيبة وفك الثرمستاثة وتركيبة
Could you provide your comment in English please as Google Translate can't decipher your comment clearly. Thanks
Isn't this a fuel pump???
This is called a fuel module, which includes the pump, filter, in some cases the pressure regulator and fuel sender unit. The filter should be replaced on a regular basis according to the manufacturer's requirements
I can't believe you have not disconnected the battery before starting this work .
Can I ask why this would be necessary? The fuel pump is only activated when the ignition is turned on.
Thanks for your comment
@@MiracleMAX Dis connecting the battery guarantees no possible short when working with electrics around an open gas tank - The potential for an ignition source is eliminated .
@@99fulham99 As I stated, there is no power at that point, but I appreciate your caution.
Thanks for your comment
He physically unplugged everything, what more do you want
@@99fulham99 just see how most auto body guys welds panels without unplugging battery 😂
Yeah, think I'd just replace the whole thing
That is one option, but I have to consider what the customer wants and what is actually required at that service interval
Doing this for my 2013 and can’t find just the filter so I got the entire new pump $300 in the states.
This is the fuel pump and not the filter
This style is known as an 'in-tank fuel filter'. The filter is incorporated in the top of the fuel module, which includes the pump, which I changed over into the new filter assembly.
rycofilters.com.au/part/Z897
Anessesery to complicated for nothing . Just filter . Stupid design
Unfortunately, most cars have in-tank filters
@@MiracleMAX yes