Homemade 300cc TANK / PART 5 ( Transmission )
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- čas přidán 20. 11. 2019
- PART 1 : • Homemade 300cc TANK / ...
PART 2 : • Homemade 300cc TANK / ...
PART 3 : • Homemade 300cc TANK / ...
PART 4 : • Homemade 300cc TANK / ...
PART 6 : • Homemade 300cc TANK / ...
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Ako sam vam imalo pomogao i ako vam se svidio ovaj kreativni video obavezno se pretplatite i lajkujte video ;) PUNO BIH MI POMOGLI... ;)
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Уважаю людей, которые "любят трогать дело руками". Ты молодец! Удачи тебе по жизни! Пусть твои дети тоже будут любить ТРУД!
"все трогать руками" это уже плпахивает рукоблудием. От такого детей не бывает. А головой все же пользоваться гораздо полезней 😎
Bravo. Please ignore all the "youtube engineers" that are saying what you are doing is wrong or what you should have done instead. It's really great to see what you are attempting and I understand you are just making it up as you go, you are young and you are learning. Thank you for the videos, I know in the end this will work and I will be thr first to congratulate you sir.
Your rotors are attached with one bolt through mild steel hollow axle tubes - it will work for awhile, but as you brake and lock each track, with inertia the holes in the tubes will get oblong and wear out pretty quickly.
Rotori su pričvršćeni jednim vijkom kroz blage čelične cijevi šuplje osovine - djelovat će neko vrijeme, ali dok kočite i zaključavate svaki trag, inercijom će se rupe u cijevima izdužiti i prilično brzo istrošiti.
Young man, your vision, skill, patience, and editing are amazing, I salute you. Best wishes from an old man in Ireland.
18:00 Living life on the edge mate. The cutting disk will take your fingers off like butter.
Интересно,полуоси по сварке лопнут или по отверстию для крепления тормозного диска?
No idea what you are talking about but great work. Very inspiring
same NO SPEAK RUSSIA
Where is the clutch? it's always powered this way.
He uses the slip of the belt to control his speed and when he stops
Clutch or torque converter. Needs a 3rd center support bearing at the end of the shaft due to play when you just squeezed the belt. Love your build this far. Please get subtitles for your foreign audience.
Kinda curious if hes going to try something like you see on older mower decks where the belt is tensioned by some sort of lever mechanism. Though for that I'd imagine he would need that belt to be loose enough to allow the pulley to slip when the "drive lever" would be disengaged... Guess we'll see how he's going to go about it eventually though!
Yep, no clutch and no reverse. You could replace the primary pulley with a centrifugal clutch, but reverse will require an intermediary gearbox. I would also recommend another bearing near the large pulley at the front end of the driveshaft...
A kvacilo, treba ti menjac, jesi siguran da ce taj motor moci da pokrene iz mesta tenk ? Sistem sa diferencijalom je ok , ali treba ti blokada ne mozes ostaviti samo tako. Moraš više da razmišljas pre nego što nešto napraviš, nisi trebao da sečeš bazu tenka, sadsi je dosta oslabio, a i trebaju ti zatezaci gusenica ( jedan pokretan točak koji moze da se pomera i šteluje po potrebi
You’re going to need to put a clutch or torque converter on there so that the drive sprockets don’t spin whenever the engine is running. Might also want to consider some lower gearing depending on the weight of the finished tank.
Maybe a transfer case?
Thomas O'Hanlon a transfer case would be able to send power to both the front wheels and the back wheels, idk if it would be a gear reduction though. For a tank a transfer case would mostly just use up interior space. Maybe if there was some sort of small transmission that only had a forward, neutral and reverse gears if it’s simplicity that he’s going for
He uses an adjustable tensioner on the belt so he can make it slip more or less depending on what he needs. Frankly I would've just chopped apart an old truck and salvaged the frame and drive train as the basis for mine
You need a gearbox. It's going to be way too fast.
Also a clutch would be a good idea. Makes stopping and starting a whole lot easier.
A tip, paint your steel with red oxide when you get it before it rusts. You can still weld it with a thin coat of paint. It will stop weld spatter and keep the rust away and so make final clean up and painting a lot easier.
Fantastic work!
You definitely should install a clutch system like on snow mobiles
Cvt transmission. No clutches.
Clutch?
its very interesting to see how you set out the engine and transmission, i would have arranged it differently myself. However i am enjoying this 'series' alot so far and cat wait to see the final product :)
Пока не поздно, нужно ставить коробку переключения передач. Без сцепления никак, желательно сделать подушки на двигатель, ну или демпфер на пружинах. Удачной сборки! 😉
No clutch to stop power to the driveshaft when sitting still?
Thank you for the subtitles. Keep at it: this is really taking shape. I can't wait to see how you solve the steering issue. You'll have to independently control the brakes to do it. Then, you'll need to solve how you stop the treads to clinging to the sides of the rim: that will cause the tracks to fail under load.
So awesome to see it all coming together. I am sure that is a great feeling to see the engine running and drive sprockets turning.
I can tell you all that this drive set-up will not cut it...It needs a pair of hydraulic motors...one for left and one for right...That will give you forward and reverse on each motor independently...eliminate the brake discs...They will not have enough grab to turn that heavy of a vehicle...No way to run one track in reverse...The engine will need a hydraulic pump attached to run the 2 hydraulic motors...I've been following this build for a while now but Doctor DS dropped the ball on this video...
Not to mention that hydraulic motors do not need all that cumbersom power transmission. High pressure cables (don't know the proper term) are much easier to manage and are not that expensive. Also the hydraulic system is much better for space management (drive shafts need to be in line). Also better for maintenance, because of much less moving parts, much less connections and bolts that can break, much less vibrations especially with that right hand shaft that is not in line.
@@MrQbee87 I saw that shaft wobbling too...Not to mention there's no way to remove the axles, boots, or CV joints for replacement after welding...
Looks nice! I’ll be watching the rest of your videos shortly.
Theres nothing like having a "good Turner" around when you need one! Awesome!
Ставлю лайк за то, что в столь юном возрасте руки не из жопы. Парнишка сам варит, сверлит и т.д.
Технические решения весьма спорны, сыроваты и слабоваты.
Полевые испытания и процесс эксплуатации расставят все по местам.
Но за старания еще раз лайк. К 25-30 годам будет грамотный специалист.
The world needs many many more young men with this talent..
Hi,
Really great work but there are a few things I have to mention:
Does it have a clutch?
The bearing on the transmission shaft is way to far from the pulley. If you put tension on the belts the axle will flex and you put a lot of additional stress on the bearing.
Second thing to the transmission shaft: why you didnt put some spacers under the bearings? now the shaft is under permanent stress and the bearings too.
As mentioned by others the missing bearing on the rear axle or wheels caused them to dont line up anymore with the tracks which will make them stuck or lead the differential to deliver constantly more power to one side so you will always drive in a circle and not straight ahead.
Im really interested in how it will drive and are hoping for the next video.
Regards
That's a lot of hardware for so small of a engine.
I love how "just do it" this is, no long term planning at any stage.
I really hope it works.
Parabéns pelo belo trabalho, aguardando a PARTE 4.
Say what you want, This guy is good at what he does. Bravo!
The one side of the differential is at an angle. That will cause problems and it wont move easy. Depending on which end is the front, it's going to pull one side or the other.
God bless you young man! Can't wait to see it finished!
Hey caution cover that drive shaft with a protective metal or hard plastic cover to avoid getting clothing caught in it when its spinning!!!
That could pull and arm or leg off!
Блин я конечно хотел бы похвалить пацана за его труд... Да вообще то он молодец, старается. Но ему хоть бы помог что ли кто-нибудь! Он же нахрен таким макаром в российский автопром попадёт!
I don’t want to be a back seat builder but you should heat up those tracks and synch them in used motor oil to slow corrosion
Jason Kluver quench*
The body is also corroding, do something about it
BPMoments my bad typo
You are going to need a bearing block right behind the large pulley (too much flex in the shaft) and it is geared WAY too high. One way to reduce the ratio would be to make the the track drive "sprockets" out of smaller diameter rims. You will need more of a gear reduction than that, though. Other than that, it looks so cool! You'll figure it out. Thanks for sharing! :-)
Another fine job, can't wait to see it in action.
U need the clutch and the maybe a reverse gear
Sweet, only the gearing is way to high for the weight, its gunna smoke belts if it even moves. Adapt a gearbox and run it chain drive with a clutch of some sort, only way its going to be reliable. Then you will have reverse also. Tinkering and learning new stuff always a good time though!
I am looking forward to seeing the next installment. Looking pretty awesome!
Awesome tank project, building things is fun. Thanks for the video
👍👍👍👍This is a killer build. Iv long wanted to have a tank. I'm 50 and back in the day one could buy a M4 Sherman fairly cheap. I remember asking Santa Claus for one lo!. I like the track design. Perhaps to make ease of in field repairs and cheaper bottom !ine. I will use solid steel rods cut to span the entire link and drilled on the ends for cotter pins with washers.So the worry of threads being chewed up and making nut removal a pain . Many Tanks use this drive pin system. I would add this to one or two links on your tracks to ease removal of the entire track or if one is thrown to ease putting it back on. I'm looking forward to seeing it complete. A potato gun would be an awesome final add on one that can fire graffiti 🎉 or tee shirts if you take it to public affairs on holidays. You have made me dust off my tape measure. Thanks for the killer videos I must now watch them all.👍👍👍
Great bit of construction love the vids but how are you going to engage and disengage the drive ?? Start i9t up and it will either stall or drive off on its own. :) Keep em coming.
Will the frame not buckle now cutting that out to fit the diff?
Are you going to put another bearing block closer to the drive pulley?
you need a extra bearing as close as possible to the pulleys now to axle has way to much bend in it when you activate the belt tensioner
I said the same. I just watched number 6 and he hasn't addressed that issue. So important.
I would love to hear your narration. Is there a way you could include subtitles?
Just turn on subtitles/closed captions, that’s how I had a clue what he was saying.. lol
Bravo young man, if you have a problem with a part, just fix it. Live and learn, no problem.
Pozdrav iz Slovenije!
In english now, make sure to make some sort of "case" or protection box for all the rotating parts BEFORE you attempt to drive it. That yellow thing that is spinning there is lethal (you know about tractor accdidents when people get caught in....kardan....)
Great videos, keep it up! :)
English subtitles please :)
I have a number of major engineering concerns with this project. Unless they are addressed (and you may have plans for this) you will quickly run into trouble.
1. The driven axles have one bearing only and as the driveshafts have been welded on, no means to add another. This will break very quickly.
2. The prop shaft pulley is only supported on one side and again the side loads involved will cause strain and wear. It needs support on both sides of the pulley
3. There is now no way to remove the drive shafts to the wheels for maintenance, repair or modification. How do you change the brake discs?
4. There does not seem to be a clutch mechanism, if you are planning on using belt tension as a clutch, then this makes point 2 doubly important.
Sorry to sound so negative, but this is a good project that was going so well, and suddenly compromises to get it finished have the potential to ruin a lot of good work.
Have a think and hope you come up with solutions.
he only needs it to work long enough to invade germany.
I agree strongly with what you said.
The second advice is especially important.
@Iain Botham I'm not familiar with that engine. It may have an integral centrifugal clutch and the drive to the unloaded drivetrain was through drag on the new unit, but that is unlikely. The builder seems to be in a real hurry to get it going at the expense of future reliability and maintain ability, which is at odds with the good work and thought already put into this project.
Parabéns pelo sua dedicação e também poder compartilhar. Seu fã aqui do Brasil.
Excellent skills and imagination. I don't know anyone building themselves a personal tank.
У БМД-1 траки и катки сними.Катки из алюминиевой брони лёгкие.Поставь на свою этажерку.Цыгане шумною толпою Толкали жопой паровоз И только к вечеру узнали, Что паровоз был без колес!
9 лошадок маловато для гусянки. Надо было делать на электро приводе и батареях :) был бы в тренде.
besposhadniyNAFTIZIN два электродвигателя + бензогенератор кВт на 6
@@4elovek-007 иронично на счёт бензинового генератора
@@SSk1ff во во, нефиг пусть прикуривает от электроподстанции
The prototype tank is amazing...
I was inspired to try to make it. Greetings from Indonesia.
Phantastische Arbeit, junger Mann !!! Mein Respekt !
Man, I am from Croatia, and I rarely subscribe to a Croatian channel. Keep up the good work. ;)
Cool build man. Just an idea maybe try a VW beetle transaxle with a 1600 motor and get more power and reverse to, pulse more control with a clutch.
Yes , would have been a good option with everything there , almost just a bolt up job
14:55 Dude that 'vise grip' thing is awesome.
hey buddy great job a few things from the video the tracks are to tight and you should fabricate a tensioner pulley to adjust track slack the other thing is there has to be play between the drive sprocket and the tracks here's why tracks twist and turn and need to have room to grab the track again without binding were they grab the track thanks
Looks like he main concern in the comments this time is that the engine doesn't have enough power. I eagerly await to see how you'll prove us wrong in the next video!
You have excellent fabrication skills 👍
Saludos amigo desde Panamá, excelente vídeo, muy creativo, usted tiene una imaginación sin limites
I noticed when u put tension on the belt by your hand the shaft tends to bend a lil bit. I thin you need to reposition the pillow block little bit nearer to the main drive pully.
It seems that a clutch or transmission would be needed instead of direct drive. Those belts might take a beating with the drive pulley spinning with the vehicle standing still. And, is that motor going to be big enough to move that beast?
I didn't see any clutch 🤔
Elimar Zordan me either.
Hvala brate
Were did you get the transmission?
Congratulations my friend, you are doing a great job, well done again. Greetings from GREECE .
Detecting a slight problem....
You need a clutch and a reverse gear
This aint a french tank. All it needs is to go forward
@@dreckigerdan1237 .......
Dude you are impressive
where did you get that transmission
and where are the engine mountings? Is all vibration transmitted to the case? ...
Amazing project! Good luck guy. Greetings from Brazil!
Tnx
Moj tata je rekao da ce ti tokom prve voznje naj vjerojatnije popucat šarsfi na gusjenicama jer su pre tankt, on je bivsi vojnik
Aha budemo vidijeli ;)
Može se svašta desit :D
Moze poz
Yehey Finally with English translation, thank you so much , more power to your channel
For brake steering the best setup would be one where a very low ratio (1:1 being ideal) differential with brakes was used before the actual final reduction gears. This would reduce the strain on the brake discs. Most commercial traction steering system use multi-differential systems but those are tricky to replicate in a compact and reliable way by hobbyist on a budget.
Decko trebace ti menjac,tako nece imati snage ni da krene,mnogo vremena i rada ulozeno u sve to pa ti na tome cestitam
With all respect, you need a gearbox..
Great! I hope we can see the finished product.
Now just the extras . You are awesome kiddo!!
fala bogu da ima neko sa balkana da snima ovako nesto.ekstra video!!!!
Doctor D.S. надеюсь сможешь перевести... - после ремённой передачи (можно использовать как сцепление) тебе нужно поставить последовательно 2 КПП для понижения оборотов и увеличения крутящего момента
Dis is so cool!
Imagin a homemade heavy tank...
Awsome job looking forward for the next vid
It would be nice if you had subtitles as not all of us speak your language.
*digs transmission and brakes out of the trash*
*just puts them in without any overhaul*
*puts on rusty brake discs without getting the rust off to allow for metal on metal contact*
*No gearbox inbetween engine and differential*
This will be fun. Especially how low the differntial is to the ground, it will be interesting to see what happens when the tank climbs an obstacle and bottoms out on that part, if it doesnt tear off the transmission wheel thats sticking out first. But if he does any offroading at all he will be faced with problems of fluids not going where he wants them to go, and the motor crapping out due to loss of fuel, thats why most tank builds have custom made fuel and oil tanks, if not straight up a full hydraulic solution for the powertrain like on the tank Macro Machines built.
Its almost like he doesnt know what he´s doing and has no plan of any sort, and just does stuff as he goes. Oh wait.
Honestly i wouldn´t mind the "Figure things out as we go" approach if the music and editing wasn´t designed to make him look like a big badass when he just puts trash together hoping that it works, without a plan behind it.
No fuck, he’ s fuckin’ nazi, 18 you know what it means
DarkestVampire92
I think he is just doing this because he can. Just having fun. I don’t think he intends to keep it around, which is the reason he didn’t bother to paint it... I think.
If it fails what does it matter? If he can make one tank he can make another, with more knowledge and experience.
Do you have a complete set of plans and part list.
where's the gearbox/trans, or are you using belt-tensioner?
Kid builds his own tank. Still a better weld job than Tesla :)
Had to be a big thrill when you started the engine and breathed life into the project! I guarantee the haters are busy building nothing, ever. Those who can, DO. Those who cannot, hate from behind a keyboard. All the negative bullshit is coming from losers living in mom's basement. Ignore those clowns and build on!
00pp0pp00p000p0ppppppppp000000p
HEY, my mom has a nice basement!!!! Quit hating on my moms basement!!!
Will you be getting a lot of vibration from that long shaft
es fantástico lo que haces ,. espero verlo terminado ...saludos desde Uruguay
Сойдет проехаться 50 - 100 километров. Потом или дифф рассыплется от переменных нагрузок даже без биения, либо гусеницы сотрутся оттого, что задние колеса под углом к остальным расположены. Ну или гусеницы будут слетать и заклинивать. Биение полуосей разобьет дифф и подшипниковые узлы еще быстрее. Один подшипниковый узел на полуось с радиальным подшипником с переходом на шрус вообще детское решение, как раз по возрасту автора - рассыплется под нагрузкой почти сразу. В целом конструкция работает, если дифф от грузовика, и два шруса на полуось, а не один, + другое крепление полуосей (без радиальных подшипников, которые вообще-то работают парами). Сцепление будет, кстати, как на мотоблоках прижимным роликом. Самое простое и оптимальное для легкой конструкции. На сайтах вездеходостроителей все эти косяки расписаны в деталях, с фото наступивших последствий.
Да там нетолько єто!На кардан 2 подшипника,дико, без второй крестовини и єластичной резиновой муфти. Вообщем как ви правильно заметили, детское решение.
If he lived in America, it would definitely be Texas.
i woulda left pillow block bearings in to keep stress off of cv joints.they be flexin n poppin.shoulda just undon axle stubs n fitted cause you already had everything lined up.now when you re track again tension be all on cv joints. just my thoughts
You need to have a idler wheel to adjust track tension. You don't need that many return rollers at the top 2 on each side should be fine the rest are added weight
Nice nice.. but slow it down a bit. I know you're excited to get it going and all that but take some time and think. A lot of places aren't in line, the welds aren't really that good (welding takes patience, move the nozzle slower) and as other people mentioned it's missing some major parts. You need to modify it before it goes as it's supposed to. But you'll figure it out. Keep going!
Doktore jedan savet, moras da izvadis lamele od spere iz diferencijala, jer pod opterećenjem neces moci da skreces spojice ti obe vuce neces moci na taj nacin ako jedan tocak ukocis da skrenes, jer ce da ti slomi diff, prokliza kocnica ili da ti gasi motor usred opterecenja.
Upravu si
I love it! Keep up the good work! I subscribed😊
Have no clue what your saying or what half the comments are..lol but keep up the work and don’t let them stop you. That said there are definitely some design flaws here but only way to learn is trial and error and it’s nice to see younger people actually still building stuff. 👍