A few months ago my modulus flywheels broke (it was the board). I took it apart and since I don't have a solder, I used duct tape and it now works better since I also removed the unessessary switches
One of the features that I absolutely adore about the modulus is how, after firing and releasing the rev trigger, it automatically stops the motors. The problem is that I am unaware of how to keep said function and making it fire just like in this video
I'm 14, tried removing the locks and circuitry from my blaster and totally fucked it up. We're kinda poor so this is all I got. Luckily I found this video to fix my blaster. Thanks Drac!
The Modulus pushrod mechanism sometimes throws a dart up instead of forward. At least that's my experience. It could be that when the mag is loaded, the top round hits the side and moves up above the top of the mag a little. This could angle the tip of the dart higher than the barrel entrance. Trigger pull pushes the top dart up further, could cause a missed fire, could just send round #2 downrange first. Since you have to push a little (relatively) to add a dart to the mag straight down, the top dart can't re load itself once it's out and stays above. Perhaps adding something that prevents darts (or at least the tips) from travelling above the barrel entrance would solve the issue. Untested hypothesis though, so ymmv
I really liked your mod guide for the modulus. I've recently made my modulus red and flat black and rewired it completely. so i would like to THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)
Im trying to unscrew the modulus stock, but the screws won't move out of their position. I really want to fix this stock so it is sturdy and can fit on all my blasters, can you help?
Hey drac, attempting my own mods on this kind of blaster. Just curious, i'm wanting to use a better microswitch for the rev trigger, what type do you recommend? Also what lipo would you recommend? I want the best of the best.
I like the jam door lock, I do feel there needs to be a lock in which the jam door is open and the rev switch is depressed it locks the trigger, I found that a problem when I first got it as the blaster got jammed.
im curious why you do work on the floor rather than on a desk or an uncarpeted floor? my back starts to hurt after about an hour of sitting and bending down.
Drag I have a challenge for u, take apart a stryfe or modulus then take everything out, the use ur own tools to try to build it hand made(don't use original pieces!). Like if u want him to try this!
would i need to make any changes to my modulus electronic-wise if i want to run trustfire batteries? or can i just run on stock internals and keep using the 3 trusts and a dummy
can a nerf modulus motor handle 4 imr's? I want to run 4 3000 maH 40A 3.7v imr batteries in my nerf modulus which is comepletely rewired with no voltage resistance or electronic locks the circut is just the negative going straight from the motors to the battery tray and the positive going from the motors to the button switch then another wire on the button switch going to the positive lead on the battery tray. I want to know if the motor will be ok with the 4 imr’s of the electric specifications i mentioned earlier.
So non-nerfer here. I gave my friend all my nerf guns, but recently, been invited to a bunch of nerf 'parties' and stuff, so I thought I should go out and buy a blaster. I'm thinking about the Modulus, as it seems to suite the purpose of my team's need (none of us have nerf guns yet, still in the buying area). I remember from my old nerf days that modding was a must, so a few questions: 1) Overall, besides wire, did you need to buy anything? 2) How effective is this 'mod'? I'm glad nerf has finally caught up to buzzbee in the flywheel business! (I had the Thomson 20 by BB and it was amazing way back like 10 years ago) 3) Would adding weight to the foregrip be more effective in this mod to reduce drag and lift from shots?
I know this is old but what are the double a sized lipos you are using? I've heard that you can use two in stock configuration for slightly better performance but I'm not sure? I also wouldn't mind running three of those after I work up the nerve to try a rewire as I actually like this blaster and would like to be able to switch to the stock FPS when I play with my nephews.
I'm making a P-90 styled nerd gun but don't have a rayven. On Amazon they are going for around $100, but I don't have that much right now. Where is the best place to get one? P.S. (I'm already spending $600 for a 3D printer so I can make a custom parts store.)
Lol earlier today j was trying to spot out the locks through the clip area and saw a dart stuck in the dead space behind the jam door took the thing apart and learned a lot about this gun
its better to remove the rubber flywheel shroud for the darts. It's less drag on the darts and it is less likely to jam with certain darts. Hope I could help!
So, dumb question about the stock attachment; it's got those flimsy rails in the back there. Can anyone tell me the dimensions of that space: the length of the orange rods and the gap between them? Seems like you could glue in a piece of 1.5 or 2 inch Diameter PVC to shore up the stock without spoiling compatibility with guns shaped like the ol' Retaliator's stock attach point.
LordDraconical Could you make a Vid on how to put the Retaliator internals back together, because I took mine apart to paint it. But now I can't get it back together.
If you want to run 4 ultras then you probably should, you can run 3 and a dummy battery and be ok, but if you with be using this blaster frequently you should think about aftermarket motors
Hey lord draconical I was modding my modules and I cut the clip lock and jam door lock and then it didn't work do u know where I can get the inside part of the modules for cheap or not that expensive
I modded mine but my accuracy went bruh. Help?
Dont use nerf elite darts use waffle head darts
Use real bullets in a real gun trust me it works better
It went *bruh* ?😆
Just unbruh your nerf darts
A few months ago my modulus flywheels broke (it was the board). I took it apart and since I don't have a solder, I used duct tape and it now works better since I also removed the unessessary switches
One of the features that I absolutely adore about the modulus is how, after firing and releasing the rev trigger, it automatically stops the motors. The problem is that I am unaware of how to keep said function and making it fire just like in this video
late response lol. Thats called motor braking, its really simple. all you need is 1 wire, you should google it
2 in one day? AWESOME
I need help!!
How do u retire this thing?
The rev switch has three ports!?
replace green details with orange for asiimov!
Sooo... it's not actually a reshelled Stryfe, then?
Yes
I wouldn't say that. You're making it sound like its a scam, lol.
not at all... the internails are different....
Ya to be honest i think the ecs-10 has better firepower than the stryfe
@@cjguitars317 It does I wanted switch all the components into the stryfe so it's not as top heavy and use it as a better stryfe.
thank you so much i just did my first mod thanks to you and someone else
I'm 14, tried removing the locks and circuitry from my blaster and totally fucked it up. We're kinda poor so this is all I got. Luckily I found this video to fix my blaster. Thanks Drac!
I'm 13 and I did it fine
I am 12 and I did it fine
Yes, the MODulus works well for it :)
Did a dart fall out of the gun at about 7:22?
+josh hightower yes
+josh hightower Haha yep
yea
josh hightower yes it did, and he probally didnt notice ethier
The Modulus pushrod mechanism sometimes throws a dart up instead of forward. At least that's my experience.
It could be that when the mag is loaded, the top round hits the side and moves up above the top of the mag a little. This could angle the tip of the dart higher than the barrel entrance. Trigger pull pushes the top dart up further, could cause a missed fire, could just send round #2 downrange first. Since you have to push a little (relatively) to add a dart to the mag straight down, the top dart can't re load itself once it's out and stays above.
Perhaps adding something that prevents darts (or at least the tips) from travelling above the barrel entrance would solve the issue.
Untested hypothesis though, so ymmv
What no paint before you eBay it off? :( Or a nice digital camo hydrographics dip
Drac,I have a simple question:what company of copper wire do you use and what is its diameter
A bit late but copper is copper, not rlly much different
I really liked your mod guide for the modulus. I've recently made my modulus red and flat black and rewired it completely. so i would like to THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)
Im trying to unscrew the modulus stock, but the screws won't move out of their position. I really want to fix this stock so it is sturdy and can fit on all my blasters, can you help?
Hey drac, attempting my own mods on this kind of blaster. Just curious, i'm wanting to use a better microswitch for the rev trigger, what type do you recommend? Also what lipo would you recommend? I want the best of the best.
I like the jam door lock, I do feel there needs to be a lock in which the jam door is open and the rev switch is depressed it locks the trigger, I found that a problem when I first got it as the blaster got jammed.
You are the only nerfer to turn to for awesome mod guides :)
Drac Did you know that pringle can lids are awesome for temporary screw storage
Good idea!
im curious why you do work on the floor rather than on a desk or an uncarpeted floor? my back starts to hurt after about an hour of sitting and bending down.
do you ship to Belgium ?
Drag I have a challenge for u, take apart a stryfe or modulus then take everything out, the use ur own tools to try to build it hand made(don't use original pieces!). Like if u want him to try this!
That's pretty much what he does with a lot of his work like the motors, wiring, and lock removal
Sooooo... Sanguine?
I liked the part of your video when you used the alugator teeth to complete the circuit and shot the dart!!
would i need to make any changes to my modulus electronic-wise if i want to run trustfire batteries? or can i just run on stock internals and keep using the 3 trusts and a dummy
can a nerf modulus motor handle 4 imr's? I want to run 4 3000 maH 40A 3.7v imr batteries in my nerf modulus which is comepletely rewired with no voltage resistance or electronic locks the circut is just the negative going straight from the motors to the battery tray and the positive going from the motors to the button switch then another wire on the button switch going to the positive lead on the battery tray. I want to know if the motor will be ok with the 4 imr’s of the electric specifications i mentioned earlier.
I ran into a problem when taking off the flywheel resistors where I accidentally ripped off the prongs,could anyone please help?
Would it be safe to put in 4 imrs? If so what wires should I use?
i have a question sir . is it okay to change to neo rhino motors but my source of power is eneloop battery?
Would the performance change if I used normal aa alkaline batteries
so did you replace the motors or used the stock ones?
and how high voltage can the stock wiring take once I have removed the thermistor?
Where can I find the kind of batteries you use at the end. I just got a modulus ecs-10 and want to mod it. Oh I'm in Canada
So non-nerfer here. I gave my friend all my nerf guns, but recently, been invited to a bunch of nerf 'parties' and stuff, so I thought I should go out and buy a blaster. I'm thinking about the Modulus, as it seems to suite the purpose of my team's need (none of us have nerf guns yet, still in the buying area). I remember from my old nerf days that modding was a must, so a few questions:
1) Overall, besides wire, did you need to buy anything?
2) How effective is this 'mod'? I'm glad nerf has finally caught up to buzzbee in the flywheel business! (I had the Thomson 20 by BB and it was amazing way back like 10 years ago)
3) Would adding weight to the foregrip be more effective in this mod to reduce drag and lift from shots?
is there a way u can trade my modulus with your upgraded one but give you like 5 bucks moor
what motors do you use for your upgrades and where can i find em i looked on evay and realised i had no idea what size or type i need
what happens if you run 2 Li-Pos and 2 dummy batteries?
what gauge wire do you utilize for your rewires, it appears to be 20ga, 20ga at the smallest?
can anyone tell me if i can use trustfire batteries on my unmodded modulus without it breaking
Wait, wait wait!?!?!? Wtf?! AA sized LiPos??!!? Where the hell did you get that?!
He meant ultra fires
I know this is old but what are the double a sized lipos you are using? I've heard that you can use two in stock configuration for slightly better performance but I'm not sure? I also wouldn't mind running three of those after I work up the nerve to try a rewire as I actually like this blaster and would like to be able to switch to the stock FPS when I play with my nephews.
Is it necessary to use Lithium batteries to get an increase in performance with this mod? Were the motors changed?
can stock motors handle a 3s LiPo? if so, souls I have it revved for a long time?
Drac, what is the maximum voltage the modulus can hold without any internal modification?
I'm making a P-90 styled nerd gun but don't have a rayven. On Amazon they are going for around $100, but I don't have that much right now. Where is the best place to get one? P.S. (I'm already spending $600 for a 3D printer so I can make a custom parts store.)
hey drac I was wondering how you keep the tactical rail lock on
Lol earlier today j was trying to spot out the locks through the clip area and saw a dart stuck in the dead space behind the jam door took the thing apart and learned a lot about this gun
What would be the best motors to choose, if you're wanting to upgrade those? It's mentioned in here, but it's not actually done.
Is there a place you'd recommend ordering those motors from online? I don't have any shops that sell those locally.
hey drac this is a good tutorial, but i accedentally flopped it and the trigger gets stuck. what do i do to fix it???🤔
+The Wolf thanks very helpfull
Hi Drac, your mods are dope
If you remove the weird gooey transparent thing that the darts go through does it still work?
its better to remove the rubber flywheel shroud for the darts. It's less drag on the darts and it is less likely to jam with certain darts. Hope I could help!
Question Drac...
That little plastic "curtain" that goes over the entryway to the flywheels - do you take that off or leave it?
+Googerstein You should take it off, it can cause darts to get stuck and jam it more than it already was.
Do you still have to use the small flywheel trigger
I may do this mod when I get mine. Also, is there a way to make the praxis stock less wobbly (reinforce it)?
Unscrew it and cover the wobbly plastic sticks with pvc pipes
Juel Bomb i saw the same thing on mag121s modding video
I needed this to replace the battery compartment since it corroded
i want to start my first mod what blaster do you think I should start with thanks drac
Are the flywheel wheels bigger than the previous versions?
So, dumb question about the stock attachment; it's got those flimsy rails in the back there. Can anyone tell me the dimensions of that space: the length of the orange rods and the gap between them?
Seems like you could glue in a piece of 1.5 or 2 inch Diameter PVC to shore up the stock without spoiling compatibility with guns shaped like the ol' Retaliator's stock attach point.
Did you end up changing the motors? If so what are the motors called. What brand of aa lipo batterys are they and what is the mAh and volts
+Hunter Barroco I'm pretty sure he meant UltraFires, not lipos.
+HomeSchooledNerfer or LiFePos
thx
How did you get a modulus i didnt think is out yet
I want a commision how can I contact you for one? I have a titan I want modded
and whats the range with this mod?
I would like to know rewiring the rev trigger is it still blue and wight if you could cover that that would be awesome or post it up .
Drac can you make me a need raven thats purple and blue or modulus thats green and blue
I don't want do mod my blaster like you did, but I have problems with this flexible thing at the flywheels. Can I take it out and will it help?
Hermei yes you can just pop it off it helps with performance
@@adambrain9625 the darts won't be stuck anymore, right?
Hermei yes they won’t and it shoots faster
@@adambrain9625 Thanks
Hermei your welcome if it does not work out put it back in if you’re looking for more mods just ask me
drac is that true that it fires at 100 fps because a lot of youtubers try to mod such like mag 212 and still just 20 fps improved
have you ever thought of using locks for sights or mix them with hot glue to make a glue plastic i have and its sorta useful but have you
can you link me to the parts you use or at least a list i ecs is dead and well it's time to mod and upgrade
LordDraconical Could you make a Vid on how to put the Retaliator internals back together, because I took mine apart to paint it. But now I can't get it back together.
This saved my blaster
How much would I have to pay for a olivian rifle drag
Hey Drac. Can you put a Vid of put the Retaliator internals back together, cause I can't get mine together.
Hey Drac, can you make your mod guides more user-friendly!
why do you need to remove the resistors
Only $45 on modded while unmodded is $100.Buying this
Do you have a link to the batteries you use for the gun
If i want to use ultra fires in a moterized gun do I need new motors? {nerf}
If you want to run 4 ultras then you probably should, you can run 3 and a dummy battery and be ok, but if you with be using this blaster frequently you should think about aftermarket motors
Would this be fairly simple for beginner Nerf modders?
Should I put two trustfires in or 3 ultrafires in
Bro it didn't work for me my gun broke and I can't get another one
ExxotikGamer23 - you probably didn't do it correctly
where do u get the batteries and dummy batteriey
Is this likely to cause excess wear , and faster breakdown of the blaster?
Motors will break die faster and batteries will run out way quicker.
Hey lord draconical I was modding my modules and I cut the clip lock and jam door lock and then it didn't work do u know where I can get the inside part of the modules for cheap or not that expensive
Actually does anyone know where I can get the whole inside of the modules for under $20
Did you cut the wires? Just re wire it. The base blaster w/ no atachmemts is 30$ on Amazon
+zach lemon k thx man
whcih is the best switch replacement ?
how do i get out the mag locks? in the video doesnt say it
I am currently using tape but I'll make a video about it once I found out how to do it without tape
Drac how much is a alpha trooper death dealer type commission
Don't know anything about moding can you mod mine plz
Does removing the electronic locks enhance performance?
Does it come with the attachments
Will battery life be increased/decreased/remain the same after removing the resistors between the motors?
No, Battery Life makes no difference. doing this just takes out resistance. and Stock motors will still run on the same performance with AA batteries.
RedNinja Productions So the amount of time the battery lasts doesn't change?
The amount of time for battery life won't change.
LordDraconical, I want you to make a Terraria Clockwork Assault Rifle if possible.
What gauge wire and what switches do u use
how much money to completely mod your modulus?
how do you disable a switch though
Where can you get the motors?
Looks like you could put an xsw select fire kit for the stryfe in there just fine...
How does the wiring go for the trigger??!
What gauge of wire is that?
What ranges Does the moded modulus get?
can i buy a new gun and have you mod it for me and ill pay you? will that be possible
Hey Drac i want to mod my modulus as well just i want to know how to get better motors and where.
Containmentcrew.com has make.test.battle Honey Badger, Rhino, and Hellcat 180 motors