Garage Heater ― Installing a Horizontal Flue Pipe and Inner Wall Thimble
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- čas přidán 5. 01. 2023
- In this video I install the class III flue for a garage heater. Class III flue pipes must be made of stainless steel that is not corrodible by flue gasses, have silicone seals, and a few other specifications that make them safe for modern forced air heating systems. The outer thimble and boot were installed in previous videos:
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In this video I install the inner thimble, and connect the two thimble halves with a riveted patch, then I assemble the flue pipe and screw it to the back of the garage heater. I also install the t-shaped flue cap on the exterior. It’s not too hard, but if done incorrectly you could have a leak so pay attention 😉
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Propane/Heating
Mr. Heater 50,000 BTU Big Maxx - amzn.to/3G35gwH
High Temp Silicone Boot - amzn.to/3Cy6Tld
Yellow Jacket Gas Pressure Test Kit, 0-35"Wc - amzn.to/3FXUzf3
Monster Thread Seal Tape - amzn.to/3EV24V2
ProFlex Gas Pipe (1/2" x 25 ft) - amzn.to/3gjIEis
ProFlex Gas Pipe (3/4 x 25 ft) - amzn.to/3VBL0cR
CSST Tubing Cutter, 1/4-inch - 1-1/4-inch - amzn.to/3SeuiNB
Pro-Flex 1/2" Brass Male Fitting - amzn.to/3yF9k3l
Pro-Flex 3/4" Brass Male Fitting - amzn.to/3D0gKRq
Pro-Flex 3/4" Union (Coupling) - amzn.to/3ezIWRP
Pro-Flex 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" Tee - amzn.to/3EGq2U1
Pro-Flex 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" Tee - amzn.to/3TcQqcI
Pro-Flex 1/2in Termination Plate 1/2MIP 3/8FIP CSST Male Adapter Fitting - amzn.to/3T3MkDq
Nylog Blue - amzn.to/3KNjtQI
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It was awesome getting this part of the garage heater install done, and having it work out flawlessly with several parts of the job being done earlier in the year - including the outer thimble and boot. If the pressure test goes well, I will have heat soon! 😊 Links to the heater and other heater items below:
Propane/Heating
Mr. Heater 50,000 BTU Big Maxx - amzn.to/3G35gwH
High Temp Silicone Boot - amzn.to/3Cy6Tld
Yellow Jacket Gas Pressure Test Kit, 0-35"Wc - amzn.to/3FXUzf3
Monster Thread Seal Tape - amzn.to/3EV24V2
ProFlex Gas Pipe (1/2" x 25 ft) - amzn.to/3gjIEis
ProFlex Gas Pipe (3/4 x 25 ft) - amzn.to/3VBL0cR
CSST Tubing Cutter, 1/4-inch - 1-1/4-inch - amzn.to/3SeuiNB
Pro-Flex 1/2" Brass Male Fitting - amzn.to/3yF9k3l
Pro-Flex 3/4" Brass Male Fitting - amzn.to/3D0gKRq
Pro-Flex 3/4" Union (Coupling) - amzn.to/3ezIWRP
Pro-Flex 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" Tee - amzn.to/3EGq2U1
Pro-Flex 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" Tee - amzn.to/3TcQqcI
Pro-Flex 1/2in Termination Plate 1/2MIP 3/8FIP CSST Male Adapter Fitting - amzn.to/3T3MkDq
Nylog Blue - amzn.to/3KNjt
I'm gonna call that good ... 😊 excellent work today my friend 👍💪
Thanks Dave! It's all coming together, and no screw-up's on the heater (yet). Top that off with awesome weather coming up in the near future, and I just might get this ceiling done this winter 😉
Hi Mojo, excellent video,and for the most part all went well, and yes it really does look nice on the outside,great job.
Thanks Larry. It sure feels good to have the flue work-out flawlessly having done the outside thimble and boot several months in advance! Real good feeling having this step done! 😊
I usually work in the basement in the winter, but you have me thinking about insulating and heating the garage! The wife would love the noises and smells to go away 😉
I was going to ask where the noises and smells come from, but that would be rude 😉
@@PlanetMojo I thought of that right after I posted, and decided to leave the post as-is. The smells and noises come from both me and my projects 😉
@@handydave Same here 😜
The flue always concerns me. It's nice to see the silicone gaskets inside!
I agree. B-Vent was practically a sieve compared to the class III flue parts. B-Vent was very cheap, but dangerous for horizontal vents!
I would rather have a horizontal flue. Much less chance of leaks as opposed to going thru the roof, easier to get at for repairs some day, and you get more heat out of the pipe before it escapes thru the pipe!
I agree on all counts! If I would have went through the roof, it would have been hell to get back there should anything ever go wrong!
Nice work on your video
Wrap some copper tubing around that pipe and pull even more heat off the system with a hydronic setup..
I do plan to pull heat from the flue pipe, but will likely just use a fan.
I've installed a few vertical heaters, but they were a pain in the butt having to go through the roof with the flue. If I ever do another, I would likely go through horizontally like this. I'm curious to see how much condensation there is!
I am as well! As soon as I get the room sealed, I want to run the condensate thru a hose to a collection vessel that I can measure. I don't think it will be much, but I may be surprised!
Is there a shut off valve on the stainless pipe for that condensation drain?
Where did you get the exterior boot? Mayo missed a link. Thanks,
I apologize. I meant to have it in the link in the description. It is there now, but here it is again: High Temp Silicone Boot - amzn.to/3Cy6Tld
Great video. May have been said already, but would it be an idea to have a short piece of ‘snow stop’ on the edge of your roof, above the chimney exit, just to keep snow / ice from sliding off onto the pipe?
So-far, we have never had snow fall from the roof. The texture on the tin holds the snow in place, and the black roof melts the snow so fast, it never slides. It probably would be necessary on a non-textured roof!
Great video, I'm doing the same thing right now. Did you use an appliance adapter piece to connect to the heater flue first then your condensate pipe? Also where did you get the gasket piece for the exterior of the shop wall and finally what are the dimensions of the space your heating? Thanks!
Thanks cackerson10! Yes, there was an adapter that came with the heater that increased the flue diameter from 3" (I believe) to 4", then I have the condensate drain after that. All of the items used are listed in the pinned description, but I'll include it here as well:
High Temp Silicone Boot - amzn.to/3Cy6Tld
The space I am heating is 12' x 32' x 36' there are lots of details on the insulation elsewhere, but right now it is R-19 everywhere, and soon I'll be blowing-in insulation in the attic area on top of the R-19 for R-50. Good luck, and feel free to ask any more questions you may have 😊
@@PlanetMojo Good thing I have a Menards right down the road looks like you shop there too. The Class III vent is not exactly inexpensive these days however I got 2 x 4 x 8 studs last weekend for $2 each after rebate
1) You job would have been so much easier if you had ordered the correct wall thimble. They make them to accommodate different wall thicknesses.
2) the single wall galvanized pipe you used in your wall is NOT B-Vent pipe. B-Vent pipe is double wall of galvanized exterior and aluminum interior that is UL listed to reduce fire clearances.
3) Might want to try a termination hood on metal siding
This is category III venting, not B-vent, and the materials used were a kit from the manufacturer.
Thank you so much!! I didnt see the condensation drain section in the horizontal kit. Did you order it separately on amazon? Thanks so much!
You are quite welcome. I believe that came from Menards. Couldn't find it on Amazon.
Great videos!! Hoping you know but I cannot for the life of me figure out if the mr heater maxx vent pipe should fall or rise out of the structure. Help!! I've seen both with slope and some with rise. Thank you!!
It should be in the instructions. I believe it was a rise of 1/4" per foot - which allows any carbon monoxide to exit naturally when the power vent shuts off. Make sure you read the instructions though! This also makes any condensate drain back to the unit so be sure to install an inline drain.
What was the brand red boot flashing you used SPECS on exhaust vent won't it melt being silicone boot ? Thanks great job
I believe the boot is linked in the description and/or the pinned comment below. No, high temperature silicone is not affected by heat.
Do you have anything between your metal walls and the fiberglass insulation? I am researching heating and insulating my garage but I’m getting a lot of warnings of mold from condensation. Are you having any issues with that?
Just the housewrap. Never had any condensation.
Awesome video. Where did you get your vent pipe from?
Menards
Where did u get that gasket thimble thing out the outside of the buildjng
It is listed in the description and pinned comment, but here it is: High Temp Silicone Boot - amzn.to/3Cy6Tld
How far do you have to keep combustible material away from outside of cat 3 thimble 2 inches ?
I don't think there is any distance specified. The outside of the thimble for my installation barely gets warm. I would check local code and the manufacturers instructions for clearances.
Do you need to run a drain line for residential applications? I saw in the instructions it only references it for commercial applications
You will have condensation so it is needed -otherwise that water will run back into the unit and leak/rust the unit out. I wouldn't try installing without it. Not sure why the instructions wouldn't require it in all installs. 🤔
@@PlanetMojo is there a pipe I can buy that has a nipple for a drain on it already? Or do I just need to drill into the pipe?
@@DalonPlays It's a special section of pipe, that stops the water and directs it to the drain. I picked mine up at Menards. You also need high temp silicone hose.
For how short that run is you should have just pitched the flue down and let the condensation drain to the out side. the unit is power vented @@PlanetMojo
Hello
On the outside wall were the flue goes through the wall what is the name of the piece with the rubber but that has the screws around the circle?
That is a silicone boot. There is a link to it and other things in the pinned comment and in the desctiption.
Awesome thank you for responding back to me.
@@michaeloliveira9825 No problem. Good luck 😊