Tips & Tricks for Oil Washes - HC 447
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through multiple ways to use Oil washes (both how to make them and tips for how to get them right for different effects). Hope you enjoy!
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0:00 Intro
1:13 Basics
4:08 Applying the Wash
7:15 Streaking
10:10 Rust Tones
14:18 Outro - Hry
03:58 oh to the contrary - my Warhammer Minis do in fact owe me money. A LOT.
"A Venturella always paints his debts."
Vincey V is the best dude ever.
Thanks for showing us the way, straight to the point, no fluff.
I've watched alot of channels and tutorials but it's got to be said; your videos are calming, easy to follow and i feel that i really absorb the information and techniques you put across easiest! Thankyou
Awesome, thank you!
“It doesn’t owe you any money”
LOL
Hahaha my initial reaction too! XD
Oil washes have been the single thing that transformed my painting the most. Its just a great tool to have
James Wappel would be proud. Great tutorial and explanation.
Vince, you're the man! A true Bob Ross of miniature painting.
I've used oils to do horses. For bays and chestnuts paint an acrylic undercoat of tan. Then brush on a very thick wash (much thicker than you have used here) of burnt umber or Van dyke brown and let stand for an hour or so. Then wipe with foam. Depending on the breed I might apply black or white to the lower legs. For White and gray horses undercoat in gray white and apply oil wash using Payne's Gray. This technique will also let you create dappled grays where you stipple on gray and white washes on hind quarters and shoulders. Oil washes on horses can look rather glossy which can reproduce the effect of sweaty hair. I've had less success doing black horses with this method.
Dude this sounds awesome I need some pics!!
You mentioned having trouble using this technique to get good looking black horses... I'm curious to know what that process was, specifically, to maybe see what can be done to accomplish it. I've got a few older kits with horses that I'm looking to paint, and black could look pretty baller there...
I love all Vince Ventrilla videos 👏👍🤙
And professor DM!
Venturella
Minor note, curing isn't a reaction with light, it's oxidation, so it's a chemical reaction, not evaporation.
Not for the thinners. Often they burn off faster in the heat
@@criticalcommenterheat tends to accelerate chemical reactions
@@criticalcommenter The thinners can and do evaporate. Just in the video, Vince was looking for the right term on this and said it was a reaction with light, and it's mostly a reaction with oxygen. That being said, absolutely the hydrocarbon volatiles do evaporate
I tried oil paints last week. I had three problems. And you adressed all three of them. Thank you very much.
I just got into mini painting after getting a used 3D printer to toy around with out of interest a few weeks ago. You sir hands down deliver the most valuable educational videos imo. not only are they incredibly detailed, you also never fail to provide the reason for why you are doing something a certain way, not only showing how to do it! thank you so much for your effort!
Glad I could help :)
I just tried oil washes for the first time last week. Easy and great results! No fighting tide marks/coffee stains.
I was there for HC 89 and I am here for HC 447 as well. Happy to see that you're still going strong 💪 Vince!
Awesome! Thank you!
Oils made the painting process more relaxing, and now I enjoy myself more after incorporating them. So many fun and intresting usages such as wet on wet overbrush can work easy.
I've started using oils over acrylic base layers to paint flowing cloaks. Super long working time and insane blending ability means that with a basic blue and a white I can just get amazing results.
Great video! One little tip i got was that when you mix your wash, it will go faster to achieve a smooth blend if you mix the paint with a small part of the thinner first. That helps break up the lumps. Then you add more thinner to get the consistency you want.
Its like making pancake batter. If you mix the flour with all the liquid right away there will be lumps. If you add part of the liquid and mix, you will get a smooth blend much quicker 👍
To speed up drying time, just add to your wash Cobalt drier (see product for proportions).
I wonder if Vince uses it and his thoughts about that stuff. It works fine for me, tho you have to keep in mind oils always take long time time to FULLY cure.
There's also oil brands (think Abteilung) formulated for model painting which also slightly cut the curing time over cheaper options.
WinTon has always been my go to brand tbh but Abteilung are good too.
Oil paints are so much fun to experiment with. I appreciate your hobby videos, great for inspiration as I work on my various projects.
There is also "oil dot filter" technique used by scale modelers and applicable to big miniatures. It is used to break the uniform look of plain areas. Basically you place a whole bunch the dots of different colors oil paint or wash on the model and then depending using dabbing or streaking movements of the brush you blend them in across the whole model. This gives a model more worn look and makes it look quite a bit interesting.
"It doesn't owe you any money" hahaha :D great vid as always Vince - Mike
Simple techniques, shown clearly and carefully explained, there's a lot more you can do with oils but if you only used them this way then you'd create marvellous effects that the eye loves
Thank you sir, I didn’t know I can use oil over acrylic, more videos like these please.🙏🏼
Will do!
For me, the biggest barrier to oils is disposal. In my area (not sure how much it varies across states) acrylics can go in the trash, while oils/mineral spirits have to go to hazmat disposal which is a pain and sometimes has disposal fees.
Great video for those who are so inclined though.
Love the oil videos. I'm just starting out with them, and compared to acrylics, there aren't many videos about the process out there. I don't enjoy 2hr videos packed with non sequiturs, so this is perfect 🤘
You gave me the courage to try it out with that first video you released. Once you get the hang of it, you will never go back to regular washes. Thank you Vince!
10:10 I have multiple pure PR101 oil/acrylic paints, but this Winton one remains my favorite hue wise. Very full on orange rust brown.
Thank you vince v. I had been looking forward to start with oils
Go vince…Hobbycheating best show on youtube🤙🏻
I finally did an oil wash for the first time, on my Ironclad Drake just a few days ago. Your vid gave me the push needed and i really enjoyed the process, and it looks good too
Glad I could help
One of these weeks, I'd love to see you do a product review on the Villainy Ink line (of enamels). I got mine recently and I've been excited about the different ways I can play with it, but it'd be awesome to see what you think!
Just got a small tube of brown and black to experiment with and this video drops!
I had previously done a little bit of panel lining with oil paints and it was amazing. I had a rocky base on a model last night and I tried going over the whole base with brown to get dirt between the rocks. It wiped off amazingly but left "dirt" between the rocks and made them nice and dirty without making them look like brown rocks. This hobby never ceases to find new ways to amaze me.
Nice work!
This is awesome because it just expands on a video that I still use to this day for all my knights.
literally just got an adeptus titanicus starter box and some oil paint supplies and planned to figure it out over this weekend. fortuna favet! the timing could not be more perfect, thank you vince!
thanks Mister, it is always a joy to watch your videos :)
My pleasure!
This is great timing! Im literally JUST getting into oil washes, got the paints, the spirit, and some varnish. Can't wait to begin experimenting!
I would love to see your approach to using these techniques when it comes to 'speed painting' an army. I'm currently experimenting with oil washes on my Kruleboyz!
Great for grimdark effects on minis, buildings and terrain. Regards Lexi
Thank you for this information! I will be applying it soon.
great and simple..amazing..thank you! :)
I was heavily referring to your past oil guides as i finished my SmashBash submission this week, glad I'll have a new one to reference for next time!
I don’t know about white spirits interacting with acrylics, but I found out turpentine sure does! Make sure your brushes are completely dry after a turpentine cleaning.
Yeah. Turpentine removes paint and varnish. Not good for an oil wash
Thanks for the video! I will definitely try some oil paints on my iron warriors.
Great video and awesome tips, slowly getting the courage up to use oil wash Instead of the ready made washes. Thanks for posting.
You can do it!
Thanks again for another wonderful video. You delivered one of the best oil tutorial yet. Really eased some fears I had to try them. Thanks again !
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent tutorial on oil washes…haven’t use oil in quite while but you’ve give me some great ideas to work with. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Inspiring as always Vince.
How much you thin it depends on your way of working with them.
I like to panel line things with them, so I want the wash thin enough to do the capillary action better, but still strong enough to show.
Great as ever cheers Vince.
Thank you sir. Your videos are the best!
Glad you like them!
Great video vince as always. I need some advice here: I recently started a custom Mark 2 Horus Heresy White Scars army and I applied all the base colors and nice transitions (white armour, red shoulderpads) with an airbrush. Then, I applied decals with microset and microsol, sealed with varnish through airbrush, all nice and good. Next step is to get all the little recesses, bolts, etc. shaded so oil wash time, the plan after that is easy going again. I tried a dark grey and different black and brown mixes from Winsor & Newton, Abteilung 502 and already finished ones from AK such as starship wash. No matter how thin or thick I mix it and no matter if I apply no varnish, matte varnish or gloss varnish before the oilwash, it ALWAYS stains the white too much even after really removing all of it on the surfaces as good as I can (no matter if I let it dry first or not, also tried all kinds of mineral spirits and solvents) with q-tips and brushes. I just can't make it work to just get the recesses nice and dark and the surface as close to the original cold white as I can. I also tried just pinwash but it was basically the same result. I applied the same process with a 30k Death Guard army with awesome results so I am very surprised that cold white in contrast to bone color causes such an issue. Any ideas?
So cold whites like that use a large titanium pigment likely, so they are very matte and can trap pigment from the wash really easy, making it difficult to get completely clean. In effect, they are always going to be stained to some degree. You can minimize it some with a heavy gloss varnish, but there is always going to be some residual staining.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince, I will give it one more try with a bit more gloss varnish before! Since decals are already on and sealed and preassembly with red is already glued on that's gonna be it I guess 😀
Love it when you explain to wipe down and on the video you are going up :D you made my day :)
AK has a nice set of brushes for weathering
I like big blends and I cannot lie
I always hated the lengthy drying/curing time. I’m talking DAYS for a piece of terrain. However, you can pick up Liquin Impasto (gloss finish) or Oleo impasto to mix with the oils and cut down on their drying time and influence their finish.
Great video Vince, thanks!
Perfect timing thanks
Perfect!
One new workfllw I hsve for army painting is
1zenithal
2 contrast
3 airbrush highlights
Oils wash
Makes amazing models
"It doesn't owe you any money" made me laugh out loud :) Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Be Sir-Mix-A-Lot? That's a tall task. "I like thick paints and I cannot like, you other painters can't deny, when a tube of paint with that artist grade get squeezed I get sprung..."
I really like to paint things like skin or NMM by oil paints. It takes time to learn how to mix your own colors but it definitely worth it. Even if curing time sometimes is insanely long.
I totally agree!
Great as always
What care do you need to have to paint with oils? I know I have to have good ventilation, but for example how long does the fume stay in the air and such? I have a little kid and I worry it might be bad for her if the thing stays up on the air for a very long time
Thanks Vince!
First, THANK YOU!
Does this work for smaller models as a shadow liner?
I've tried with Newsh but I'm having issues getting it to stay put in the cracks and crevices through the sponge reduction step without it setting too long and staining the surface areas.
Absolutely.
Is a roe-bit the distant cousin of a deckle? Just curious ;)... Love the channel.
I've been having issues pinwashing armour panels. I'll drop it in watch it fill in all the lines, very satisfying. I'll go away and come back and the lines are all broken up. What was once a solid filled panelline is now looking like a squashed dalmatian with the white base coat showing through
The oil wash is too thin and breaking up.
Remember that colors other than black or brown can be employed to achieve various effects. Adding a bit of blue can make recesses colder. Green can give a mossy or verdigris effect. Purple on pale flesh can make it look more sickly.
If I want to paint acrylics over the oil, how long do I need to wait? should I use a crap brush or safe to use sables?
I give it at least a day or two, then you're good to go. The wash will cure usually faster than that, but that is to be as safe as possible.
Thanks as always Vince! How do you recommend cleaning brushes when using oils and mineral spirits?
Use mineral spirits like water whilst you're actually working, clean thoroughly with some brush soap when your session is done.
They say you shouldn't use the same brushes for your oils and acrylics, but, honestly, as long as I'm diligent about thoroughly cleaning them, I've never had problems using them at cross purposes. Just make sure you're cleaning them thoroughly before going from one to the other.
Yep, exactly as above.
Artists' oil paints on the basis of natural and synthetic fatty oils *cure through oxidization and polymerization - which totally depends on the absorption of oxygen from air.* UV light only plays a role in making a precursor substance from linseed oil, typically used in traditional painting mediums (siccative de haarlem). Accelerator substances for oil paints are therefore catalysts speeding up the oxidation process, usually cerium or manganese based (in the past, lead-based). Painting mediums of the "quick-drying" type (also) contain a resin solution where a solvent evaporates, leaving behind a resin "matrix" (dammar or a synthetic resin) that traps the fatty oils until the oxidation / curing process is complete. Those "physical" drying mediums should only be used on lower layers.
Then there are of course oil/wax mixtures that can be UV-activated, but those are not oil paints - but that could, in theory, be mixed with artist's oil paints. This does work but the results are typically not very lively and work best for absorbing materials like in terrain building. Also, those substances can overheat and combust under certain circumstances.
(me: professional toy developer & human factors dude, teaching materials & surface treatment tech.)
13:54 - Battletech: A Game of ARMORED Combat!?
Great video! First (and only) time I tried an oil wash, I probably rubbed too hard with the sponge, so some of the original paint came off. Therefore, I want to use a coat of varnish the next time. Now I wonder which varnish to take. Glossy will probably give the best result concerning the oil wash, but I'm worried that the areas where I wipe away the wash will then turn out too glossy. Could this happen?
You will matte everythign back down after you are done if you use a gloss varnish.
Great video Vince loved it, just one question mate, advantages or disadvantages of enamel washes & do you use them, thanks
That's likely a whole video in itself, but the key is you can mix to taste and have more versatility with oils.
How would you recommend using oil washes for more targeted panel lining? I'm trying to use them in place of pre-made panel liners but I find the paint seems to seperate away from the recesses as it dries, leaving nasty tide marks that ruin the effect? I'm using it fairly thin. Thanks
The key is you want to work a little thicker, or use a slightly higher grade artist oil, that should stop the separation issue.
So with mixing oil washes is it any easier to mix by starting with much less thinner working to incorporate everything and then adding more thinner and stirring a few more times? For example if you had started with only one to two pipits of thinner for your first wash of the video. I'm also curious if there are any good techniques for using something like a white spirit based enamel paint as the wetting agent for your brush when your streaking oils.
So as to the first, yes, if you're starting, you are right that is the way to build it up slowly. I haven't tried the enamel wetting agent, interesting idea
Hey Vince! LOVE your videos as they really have made getting into this hobby more accessible. This really makes me want to jump into oil washes. Quick Q: if doing the simple wash with these, should this be done after the miniature is pretty much complete (base, layers, highlights) AND/OR can it be done after base coats and before layering/highlights? Just trying to better understand what step would yield the best results.
Generally, after base coats, then let is cure and back to acryllics for highlights and such.
Hey vince how would u show gold weathering on big vehicles? Maybe some verdigris to make it contrast?
Yep, you can also stipple dark brown or black as well lightly to create some pitting.
Hey Vince love the video, very informative. The only thing I would ask about is clean up brushes and metal mixing cups since it is probably not good to wash with water. So if you are using spirits to clean brushes and mixing cups, what do you do with the dirty or used spirits to dispose of them properly?
I just wipe them out and put them away. With brushes, normal brush soap or alcohol, since you are using synthetics.
@@VinceVenturella thank you
Have you used pre-mixed oils like tamiya panel liner? Same white spirits from an art store works with them right? I'm going to be using gloss varnish to avoid as much staining during the panel lining process as possible because I want to weather the armor separately. Thanks for having the dark yellow green in the pro acryl range btw, it made me love my paint scheme
Those are enamels
Those are enamels, but yes, I have used them a lot, quite good, especially over a satin or gloss varnish surface.
Have you tried mixing in some rust effects pigment to make the oil a bit gritty for corrosion, or would you recommend building that texture up on the model before the oil wash stage?
Yep, you absolutely can. :)
Hi Vince, Thanks for the videos. I gave this a go on a few test models using Windsor Newton oils thinned (Bob Ross Oderless Thinner) over ArmyPainter Fanatic acrylics without varnish (given what you'd said). The layer of paint appeared to swell up and wrinkle and easily came off when I gently wiped with a soft make up sponge.
Did the same with ArmyPainter speedpaints with no issues. Would you have any thoughts/advice on this? Is it down to the fanatic range?
Thanks
COuld have been not cured, might have been too much liquid for it. Not sure, was this the first generation of AP, never seen that happen.
No, this was the latest AP Fanatic paint, 2 to 3 thin coats, left to dry for at least a couple of days.
Tried to keep the oil wash relatively thick as per your recommendation (definitely liquid, but like paint rather than a wash). Applied it and came back 20-30 mins later to see the wrinkling.
I'd tried over a couple of bases previously, but had wiped off the oil much quicker, and had used a thinner wash (prior to your video coming out), why no ill effect. AP paint had probably been thinner though (stippled metallic onto an industrial looking base).
Would like to give it another go, just trying to work out if it was user error 🫠 or the paint or indeed thinner 🤷
Thanks for your help
Love the video, I've been trying my hand at doing this for some necrons, but im likely mixing it wrong. If the oil wash dries quite blotchy then what is likely the cause?
Some of my oil wash never really dries in my case (Weeks of drying).
COuld be too thin, that can cause an issue, could be the paint itself, some lower quality paints will really have a challenge when thinned like this.
Don't overdilute and don't buy cheap paint. A little bit goes a long way. Windsor and Newton oils are great without requiring a 2nd mortgage on your house.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks so much!
I love oil washes. Tried Monument Hobbies Newsh recently. It's a pretty good acrylic approximation, but I actually lifted paint when I was wiping it off, particularly on certain edges. Maybe varnishing first in that case might be a good idea since it's acrylic medium?
Varnishing can stop that, less liquid can stop that, softer brushes or lighter touch can help.
The video I needed, my experience with oils is them flowing out of recess to a lower point in the model - I'm now thinking this may be due to diluting the oil too much.
Yeah, with oils you can even make what some call a “gunk wash” where you’re just slathering oil paint all over the model and then just use a brush dampened with mineral spirits to remove most of it. It blends beautifully as well.
Hi Vince, i have limited experience with oils, just asking, when using oils in dot filtering or applying an oil filter in general is there a guide to how applying certain colours will change a colour, i keep seeing a lot of videos concentrating on technique, but not a lot of explanation on how a certain colour will change the base colour and what the thought process was, is it just colour wheel and colour mixing?
also with oils and when your using reductive methods, how do you stop a previous technique being wiped away with a fresh technique, for example you used quite a general wash at start of the video, then targeted where you wanted to remove it, you then added a new layer technique, and began to remove that, but surely its also reactivating/ removing that first technique, did you varnish between layers? or is it just practice and knowing what your doing, or leaving it to dry for longer periods between techniques, i tired to do multiple layers once on a 40k cargo container, but found i lost certain effects i did at the beginning and it created almost a clean boarder between different effects when using spirits to remove or shape the oil, rather than them being one look, a base wash of oil, with rusting effects and streaking, and some deep panel lining using mineral spirits to clean up areas, i hope i explained that well enough
The washes dry fairly quickly, you will reactivate here and there, but it just draws it all together. If you are painting completely with oils, then you're going to let it cure between each application. Letting them cure, even if only for a few hours with a wash, can help a lot. Now, as to color dotting, it's really anything, just some bright primaries and white and black will do well.
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince maybe I just didn't leave the cargo container long enough to cure between applications since that was something I didn't understand about oils before you explained it, I'll keep trying
How long do you find it takes before the wash has cured enough to paint over again with acrylics. I ask because I tried some of Marcos techniques from NJM and found that days later my figures still seemed completely uncured. It was actually bad enough that I tried adding in some drying agents and also made a little heater box to try and speed the drying process (be very careful with this, I have a Stormstrike chariot crew that is slightly deformed).
For a thin wash, 24-48 hours is good, if you're using actual oil paints, could be longer. Leaving it outside on a sunny day can also speed it up.
When I paint my Night Lords, I bring my blue a bit lighter than I want. When I oil wash with Pjthalo blue mixed with black, I go all over. Even after wiping it away, the blue underneath has been darkened down and is more 'blue' than before. It was a happy accident on a test figure when figuring out a scheme I liked, but I've kept doing it because filtering with oils like that is so straightforward.
I love Payne's Grey for filtering blue. It's a dark blue-grey.
Would mixing these oil washes work with the dirty down weathering stuff u covered before?
Absolutely.
Thanks for the great insight. Oil washes are fantastic. They do some amazing things to terrain too. I've got two questions from the boring side of the hobby. Do you have any tips on cleaning brushes after using an oil wash and what do you do with the used mineral spirits when you are done?
I use so little, there isn't usually much left, but I just soak it up with a paper towel and throw it away.
You 100% need to varnish. I often do oil washes over a zenith highlight with white ink. It’s very fragile. If in doubt, varnish.
Yes, the more bright or fragile the undercoat, the more likely you need to varnish, with something glossy like these metals, you're good without varnish. :)
Quick question about varnish, could you do an overall matte varnish, and then zenithal with a gloss varnish? Do you think this will give any advantage?
I don't think it would really have an advantage.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks!
What do you use for brushes? I picked a couple up at Michaels that are meant for oil paints, but I'm curious if you use something a little cheaper? I see sable and synthetic in your Amazon list, but I saw in another video not to use sable with oils.
The synthetic brushes in my list is what you saw me using here. :)
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! It's good to know that cheaper brushes will be fine.
What about water mixable oils with compatible thinner (usually a monopropylglycol/water solution), does the mix give us a comparable result as regular oil with solvent ?
Haven't really messed with water soluble oils yet, its on the list for the future.
Another great and informative video, but one thing no one seems to mention is how long are you leaving between different techniques or layers? My main issue is that, for instance, I'll apply an overall oil wash as you have here, but when I go back later to do more localised staining or streaking, I pull the previous wash off. Am I being impatient? Do I need to wait several days rather than just overnight? Or am I doing something else wrong? Thanks.
I generally let it rest 24-48 hours, no issues then.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you 👍
I know you did a video on the pro acryl Newsh recently with tomb guard, but how effective would you say Newsh is at the weathering techniques in this video when compared with traditional oil washes?
Certainly very similar, this has the advantage of being completely cleanable, but its close.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you! That makes sense with the working time of Newsh being shorter than oils
Do you wear a respirator when using the oderless mineral spirits? I’ve been wearing one with an open window and a fan sucking air
I don't but nothing wrong with being safe. :)
@@VinceVenturella thank you for the reply
When I started out with oil washes, and their close friends the enamels, I tried the flood-then-remove technique, I never really got on with it. I much prefer the targeted pin wash technique. It probably takes just as long, but being mostly additive rather than subtractive seems to suit me better.
I still enjoy that original knight video. If I remember right, that was your Sister Repentant on her giant rowbit that won a Golden Demon?
Does this work for smaller units and in reverse?
Think glowing Necron guns and parts of their chests and eyes. Would you use like a white or off-white then let the oil wash dry, err cure, and maybe airbrush some green or whatever glow color your Necrons user over those recesses?
I tried this on a Stormstrike Speeder's engines and it worked well but when trying anything other than white the effect was super weak. Any tips welcome for recess glowing. Thanks Vince.
Yep, that can absolutely work.
Great and helpful video! Will we get an oil paint Video list? You have so many videos so going through them and group them thematically would be super helpful... but also a lot of videos to go through 😅
Great idea!