Ultimate Tracksaw Cutting Station Project
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- I needed to create a new tracksaw cutting station to suit some jig work that I have planned where symmetry is key. I was pleased to find a new timber company that sells Mediate. This video highlights the common errors when using the Parf Guide System and describes the new tracksaw cutting station.
It's so satisfying to cut an exact 90 deg cut knowing the angles are perfectly dialed in. Your system is so well made it's a thing of beauty.
Hi Hans, Thank you so much. Cheers. Peter
You’re that guy who brought those squinting tolerances from the tool & die shop when you switched over to the wood shop. Just teasing because my coworkers used to accuse me of picking the fly sh!t out of the pepper ! 👊🤓 🤜🤛
That’s a fantastic system you have there.
Thank you so much - I must look more carefully at the pepper ! Cheers. Peter
Peter this is a fabulous project. Can't wait to get started on building this new project. My original MFT table you created, has worked flawlessly over the years. Love all the PARF products. They work so very well. Keep these fabulous ideas and creations coming. Thank you!
Thank you so much. Cheers. Peter
Oh my! It makes me want to set aside my Festool table. And buy your complete parf guide system, and start drilling holes in a new 18mm sheet. I am not kidding, it looks so satisfying. Even if I don't know how I am going to use it yet. Love your videos. Cheers, Peter
Hi Peter, It will be a lot cheaper than buying ready made tables ! Cheers. Peter
I have three homemade tables and multiple add on tables made with the parf guide. I also have a festool mft. I use my large custom tables FAR more than the MFT.
@coreywells9498 Brilliant. Cheers. Peter
You'll offset the cost of the PGS Mk 2 within two MFT-worktops. Not to mention the fact that you can use it for a bunch of other useful stuff (systainer worktops, jigs, custom MFT-accessories, 3mm shelfpin holes). One of the best investments ever and precision is bang on
I had 2 MFT tables, and connections so they could be joined, but still they wobbled, and tended to fall out of square. So I made a full sized table (2440 x 1220) with alloy rails and posts, and now I use it for everything. Sold the MFT tables - still a cost difference, but all the drawers in the new table holds - well exactly a lot of my stuff...
Thank you for going over the process in detail with a focus on where I might go wrong. I’ve been building simpler things, procrastinating on finalizing my cutting station design so your timing is perfect!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Peter, another wonderful presentation! Hopefully, we shall see more in the coming months! Well done. Regards Len (Devon 🇬🇧)
Many thanks!
That’s a great cutting station. As I get closer and closer to getting the PFG I think about the projects I’m currently working on and how nice it would be if I had a larger cutting station than just one MFT.
I can’t wait!
Hi Angie, A larger cutting station makes all the difference. Cheers. Peter
Always good to see new New Brit Workshops content.
More to come!
Like always, Peter doesn’t disappoint with his advice, thanks Peter. Yes, I have your system 👍🏻🇫🇮🤠
Brilliant - cheers. Peter
Just found your channel. I live in Canada and Lee Valley sells this kit for $309.00 and is available in most stores (posted 2023.10.06). I am retired and the only connection I have with Lee Valley is as a customer.
Thank you Peter. It's an enjoyable. to see you do those incredible "talented" Classics. Take care friend.
Hi Pat, As always, many thanks and you take care too. Cheers. Peter
Interesting pattern and nice idea about the fence positioning. You've saved me a LOT of holes! Cheers
Glad to help
Lots of work but looks like it will be so useful in so many different cutting and assembly tasks. Great informative video
Yes, thanks
Awesome Peter! Thank you for sharing the new design!
Glad you like it!
This is a very high quality tool, incredible Peter, your projects are highly accurate, thank you for the class, happy for your success always!
Many thanks!
Peter I did the same as John even after I had watched his video, your video and many others. I built a paulk workbench 6x3 and I’m only out slightly, it was my first mft build and I will build a few more. Really like the product and I am glad I bought it. Also would you believe I bought it in 2019 and only got around to using it this summer and when I opened up my parcel I realised that I only had 2 of the 3mm drill guides. When I called Axminster they where very helpful and they sent me out the 6mm in Dublin. Very impressed and grateful.
Excellent, cheers. Peter
Wow. Very technical stuff. Enjoyable to watch. Excited to see what projects you are going to build with it. Hopefully I can make one one day.
Great work! I would like to see some pictures of how you are using it.
Almost every woodworking video I make will show the tracksaw cutting station in use. Cheers. Peter
really hope you go into why this is a better layout of holes. I follow the build process, but I don't really understand why symmetry is important or desirable, or what motivates this specific design, as opposed to some others.
Hi Tim
I have ideas in mind where the symmetry of the layout will be important but I am not sure how many of my ideas will see the light of day or be the subject of a video. Here are two examples.
I have recently made a video about an interesting tray using a pattern and a router with guide bushes. My thoughts are that I could improve the production process by making a reversible pattern for the top curve and the hand hole in order to speed up batch production (perhaps making several trays at a time for presents).
Another idea is to make some more chairs. They would have curved back legs using a reversible template (hence symmetry) but there would be small areas where a flat surface is required for Domino jointing between these curved rear legs and the straight (shorter) front legs. These flat areas would be part of the rear leg template but the domino jointing would require an additional template that fits down over the area of the joint and provides a wider flat surface for the registration of the Domino machine.
All of the symmetry (left to right and front to back) would be achieved by having templates with 20 mm holes in appropriate places.
Peter
And children, ensure that you are using 18mm MDF ! Because, if the engineer in you thinks that a 25mm MDF top would be far better and stronger (you'd be right of course !) - you'll be spending the next day relieving ALL the holes at the back with a 45deg router bit so that you can get a festool clamp to fit through those newly drilled holes 🙂 And further, if you thought that painting the surface would also be a good idea (and again, you'd be right !) - ensure you do it BEFORE you drill all the holes and NOT after as all the wee paint runs when dry will stop the parf guides from fitting in those pesky holes and you'll have to ream them ALL out again 🙂 Here endeth the lesson. Probably the best bit of kit I have in my workshop (next to my festool tracksaw) - AND it interfaces with my Lowrider CNC system now via the hole system !
Gosh, Brilliant. Cheers. Peter
Yes and once you’ve routed out the 45 degree chamfer on the underside of every hole, the mechanical strength you gained from going for 24/5mm MDF instead of 18mm will be negligible. (Ask me how I know this!).
22mm MRMDF works fine.
Another great video, I look forward to making one. Thank you Peter
looks great. Im about to build my own but am having trouble finding the plans. I found the old ones but haven't had any luck with the new ones. Its probably been staring me in the face as is often the case when looking for something. Keep up the good work.Jim
Hi Jim, I have received your email and the plans are on the way. Peter
Such a well done video, it's truly a gift for us noobs, thank you!
Thank you so much - every craftsman was a noob once upon a time ! Cheers. Peter
You’re so lucky to get that Medite. It is all but impossible to get in Wisconsin , WI.
Thank Peter for a very interesting video.
One huge tip is if you are having issues getting the pins in and out, dip them in paste wax or something similar. I built my benches out of baltic birch and got some nasty blisters on my thumbs because it's quite difficult to get them in and out with that material.
I love my PGS, I even ordered the Systainer for it from Axminster to the US, before it was available through TSO.
Where on earth did you get Baltic birch? It's no where to be found around me (Canada) unless you manage to find old stock. I miss using BB for projects. 😢
@@stevenvachon9745 I special ordered it through Menards, but that was two years ago, before the war started. At that time it was a little over $100 USD for a 18mm 4x8 sheet, with each face having one or two puzzle pieces patches but that's no big deal for a workbench.
Thank you for the video and years of help!
My Mk II has not yet arrived but I will purchase another 20 mm bit to make the process faster.
Have you moved over my way Peter - Moss Timber are just up the road! Nice project too, btw! 👍
We can exchange location details off line. We are actually a very long way from Moss Timber but they were the only ones that I could find within 50 miles that stocked Medite. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshopAh, OK; good yard, good people. 👍👍
@10MinuteWorkshop Tried to message you through your CZcams contact email but it appears to be a marketing agency ! Peter
That looks amazing!
Many thanks!
Glad you like it!
Hi Peter, as always a most enjoyable project, I hope plans are available
Steve
Hi Steve, Yes, I have sent out about a dozen copies already and the video has only been up for 15 hours. In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main CZcams page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
Can't find the email for the plans looks like a great project
Peter - As always the videos are informative and helpful. I identified two different errors I was making (working from the center and eliminating lateral play in the rules). One question about the offset hole at the 24 min mark: Did you ever use the second hole that was made when you flipped the rules around? In my trials and errors, that hole is not a multiple of 96 from the opposite offset hole, because the height of the isosceles triangle is not a multiple of 96.
Hi Kevin, I used two different methods of creating the offset holes. The first pair in the video were made by using the offset holes in the rulers to first create 3 mm offset holes left to right and then, using those holes i was able to create 3 mm offset holes front to back. The two 3 mm holes needed for the track were then enlarged. The second method, just after the 24 minute point, were made by making a triangle with two rulers which could be moved fore and aft to produce enough 3 mm holes for the 20 mm drill guide to be used for the top hole. The ruler pattern was the reversed (mirror image about a line left to right) so that a similar pattern of 3 mm holes could be produced to lead to the 20 mm hole closest to the operator. Phew, I hope this makes sense ! Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter,
Could you please explain two things:
- Why do you set up the fence for 'waste side' cuts? I would only consider that for narrow ripping, but you seem to have far better tools for that. Do you always run a splinter guard on the track saw?
- I like the idea of making clever use of router templates, but I struggle to see why this specific arrangement of 20 mm holes would work so well for that. Or am I reading too much into that and was your primary goal simply to get rid of the 30/60 angles and be able to do the same operation on each quarter of the cutting station?
Thanks a lot,
Tonie
Hi Tonie, Having the fence on that side means that when I place a piece of wood and do the trim cut I then only need to slide the piece to my right to do the measured cut. The idea of using templates on the tracksaw cutting station is that very accurate symmetry work can be carried out. I will release a video very soon that shows this in detail. Peter
Peter, thanks for all your wonderful woodworking videos. Where can I get the pattern for your new Ultimate Tracksaw Cutting Station?
Hi Robert, In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main CZcams page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
Peter, I'm not familiar with your previous bench, but you mentioned the new one won't allow you to do 60 and 30 degree cuts. I take it that you meant you cannot make those angle cuts without using something like a TSO MTR-X Multifunction Precision Triangle? In other words, I take it you set up the dog holds to make it quick to make those angled cuts, correct? I'm new to woodworking and am just making sure I understand correctly. I don't own an MTR-X or anything like it yet, but I have purchased one of your Parf Guide Mark II jigs along with the Systainer (well done, by the way. It is of superb quality!).
You can create dog holes that allow you to then set up to make 30 degree and 60 degree cuts and I have made a video about that:
czcams.com/video/SAKhSPBozms/video.html
Good luck. Peter
I understand your reasoning for creating a new work top that supports your future planned endeavours. Given that this is your "Ultimate" worktop wouldn't a few isometric inspired holes also be a good idea? They would enable easy setup for a nice variety of currently unplanned for angled cuts, "just in case".
Hi Frank, Trust me and wait for a while and all will be clear. Cheers. Peter
Nice video, looking forward to see what comes over the next few months. Which Festool drill version are you using.
It is either my CXS or TXS - they are identical inside but the body shape is slightly different. I love mine and have had them for years. Peter
Just recieved the new Parf II system. Cant wait to get started. Can you send me the Pattern sheet from the video? It would be much appreciated.
In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main CZcams page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
I am assuming there is a reason, but I am assuming the holes in the ruler are made via CNC and if so, why can't the edges of the rulers to the centre of the holes also be consistent and precise over the length? It would be so much easier to measure from the edge of work piece to the edge of the ruler rather than eyeballing he centre of the holes.
I will pass this on to Axminster. Cheers. Peter
Hello Peter. I purchased your UJK Mark II system, but have been sidelined for a while and yet to try it out. Question - Any tests on how many holes the 20mm system can cut before it needs to be sharpened or if it needed a replacement 20 mm drill bit? I was thinking of making multiple tables for friends as gifts.🎅
Hi Gary, Sorry for the delay. I am still using the original cutter that came with my (one and only) Mk 2 set. I have made about 15 MFT3 size tops and 6 or 7 larger tracksaw cutting stations. The key is to ensure that the dust collection is good and the 3 mm holes go all the way through the top material. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you for the answer to my question. I was afraid I should have ordered another one since my experience with bits has disappointed me. Your answer has eased my thoughts.
I look forward to getting started this week.
Maybe you can give some insight in to where but this last one I went wrong. I've made several tops that turned out good but this last one wasn't even close. I am really at a loss I have no idea but to throw that one away and try again
The most likely error is not fully engaging either the 6 mm boss on a pin with the 6 mm hole in the ruler or a similar error not seating the boss of either of the 3 mm drill guides. Before drilling the 20 mm holes I always double check the 3 mm hole layout. That way any error can be corrected by gluing in matchsticks into the duff holes and redoing that bit. Peter
That seemed more involved than a game of chess ... I need s rest now!
Hi, do you prefer using the offset holes to the other alternatives I've been reading/thinking about, eg:
a) guide rail dogs with the t tops +cost, - accuracy?
b) leave out one column of 20mm holes
c) just cut through some holes -cut finish
and I guess some would:
d) router in a sacrificial strip
I'm very new to this and I'm trying to get away from doing wonky diy. What do you all see as the accuracy, benefits, failings of each method?
Major Thanks 🤷♂️🖖🧙♂️
Hi Kevin, The reason I created the original Parf Dogs made and sold by Lee Valley is that Rail Dogs are rubbish as they lead to very inaccurate cuts. Leaving out rows of holes means that the size of the wood to be cut gets reduced. Yes, you can have the kerf running through holes although I now try and avoid it. I have often considered putting in a sacrificial strip but never got around to doing it as I think that it is a lot of effort for very little gain (unless you are prepared to keep replacing it). Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop thanks for the reply, I missed it before. It's interesting to get your view on the different rail to dog options. ☑️🧙♂️
What is the newest design of the PARF guide system ? July 27, 2024. Thanks David
The Mk II.
Not a dig at you Peter, as i have the upmost admiration for your work and video presentations, but I find it leaves a bit of a sour taste the fact that the original parf guide system has been taken off the market....replaced by the much more expensive "guide 2" system. We all saw it coming but it's financially beyond a lot of woodworkers now. I'm guessing it may have been out of your hands though. Good video again as always 👍
Hi Jesse, I am afraid Axminster have seen such an increase in Mk 2 popularity that it made sense for them. I understand the cost issue but several people I know have shared the cost with friends or in their woodworking clubs. Cheers. Peter
Thanks Peter, I love near Cardiff
Am I right in thinking you had a woodworking shop called WoodMan?
No, not me. Peter
if the board would have been fully 20mm holed on its entirely area, in spite of that required more time to do, the final job (cutting boards) will be the same. So at this time it's difficult to know what are the advantages of this symetric holes design (a full holed MFT board is also symetrical), and why that could be better than an usual MFT board.
The way that I have done this means that it would be possible to have several jigs set up at once which might be needed for 3 or 4 different operations on the same piece of material. It also allows an area for sawing to be used whilst a jig is set up in one corner. Everyone is free to use their own design but judging by the many dozens of requests for the plans for this one it is being reproduced in many workshops around the world. Peter
Enjoyed the video but if anything it steered me to CNC for this sort of thing, the dog jigs only make sense financially if you have multiple projects planned and your time isn't precious.
As I have said before - like making a bunch of trays to give away as presents. Cheers. Peter
Lost me but OK@@NewBritWorkshop
So will you end up cutting into your top with your track saw versus using sacrificial wood strips?
Of course - it is no big deal and the cut area would look the same if a sacrificial strip were put in. In order to get a sacrificial strip installed one would have to do a lot more damage to the top in order to accommodate the strip. Peter
Is there a reason you draw your first baseline and then center the holes by eye instead of offsetting the line by the distance between the ruler edge and the center of the holes and then lining up the ruler edge with the line instead? It would seem to be more accurate than trying to eyeball the center of the 3mm holes. That may be just chasing accuracy beyond what's really needed in real life but it would be an easy change. I have to build a new table top this winter and will probably give it a try to see what real difference it makes. Thanks for the design and the video (and a belated thanks for the Parf Guide System in the first place).
In the video I trimmed the cutting station all around by 10 mm in order to get the sides perfectly parallel to their adjacent dog holes. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshopIn thinking about it more & dragging out my rulers I think I was over thinking the possibility of error. Your way leads to the holes all being rectilinear and then trimming the sides results in a square cornered top regardless of the initial placement of the first line on the MDF sheet. Clever.
Hi Jim, It was not invented here but I saw someone describing this method a few years ago and this is the first time that I have done it. Cheers. Peter
I’m pretty sure Peter has said in other videos that the holes are all aligned accurately along the ruler but not necessarily parallel to the ruler edges, so using the edges in any form of layout won’t be guaranteed accurate.
Hello Peter, I purchased your Parf Guide System MkII in the Axminster Black Friday sale and I'm just preparing to build one into my workbench with 19mm MR MDF. Do you have any recommendations for protecting the surface ? I've seen folk using paste wax, BLO, Danish Oil and Shellac. Also, would you recommend application before or after cutting the holes, and what about the dog holes and chamfers themselves ? Appreciate any advice, thanks, Shaun.
Hi Shaun, If you are going to protect your top do it before you drill any holes as whatever method you use the holes will be tight if oil or polish gets into them. I recommend people to use Osmo PolyX but any good quality finish will do. If money is tight buy some cheap and cheerful water based clear varnish (it is cheap in the UK through Screwfix). Do not, at any stage, allow varnish, glue, water or stain into the 20 mm holes as they can cause the fine fibres on the inside of the holes to expand. If any holes do get tight due to that or anything else then use the Axminster 20 mm reamer. I now have the combined reamer and chamfer tool which is brilliant. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Many thanks Peter, I'll go with the Osmo. Really looking forward to getting started. All the best, Shaun.
28:33 is that a fence on the off-cut side of the track? Perhaps I should get back in my box and wait to see the ultimate tracksaw cutting station in use 😮😂
Yes it is. It is the UJK Fence and Rail Stop from Axminster. Here is the video:
czcams.com/video/-CwXwC1qT0c/video.html
I am not a fan of the sliding stop and am producing my own but the rest of it is really good and very strong. Peter
The locating pin to left of the picture at 9:35 doesn’t appear to be located properly….which would be rather ironic.
It was correctly located - it is the lighting/shadow that makes it look slightly out. Peter
Hi Peter! I have a standard Festools MTF table and would like to drill two off set holes (enabling use off the UJK fence and my track to get as perfect cross-cut as possible) Can that be achieved with the PARF system? Thomas
Hi Thomas, Yes. In order to do this you need to buy 3 Parf Revision Dogs from Axminster. This will allow you to use the existing hole pattern with the Parf Guide System to then make either 32 mm or 48 mm offsets. As the MFT3 tops seem to have had accuracy issues in the past (hole sizing varies and the 20 mm pattern may be slightly out - reported a while ago on the Festool Owners' Group) you my have some challenges ahead. Good luck. Peter
Thanks Peter for you quick reply. With this reply I will for time being use holes I have (knowing that it will give me reduced cutting space) months to come and then start building a complete new cuttingstation based on your guidelines already published! You are awesome!!
hi, would be great to offer the list of tools and links you have used
I have made over 500 videos and the list of tools is huge. Cheers. Peter
There is unnecessary error in your methor their method, perhaps. You should have a third equal thickness ruler under the diagonal piece to keep it parallel with the surface and the distance exact.
That makes less than 0.001 degrees difference over the lengths used. So small that it is not important for woodworking.
@@NewBritWorkshop I knew you'd say that, but claiming *perfect* accuracy and doing this is not fair :-D Either way, I agree, close enough for your woodworking.
Peter, I’d like to get a plan for the Ultimate Tracksaw Cutting Station. I don’t see it on the FOG site. Thanks in advance.
As I said before... In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main CZcams page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
Hello, may I ask if the parf drill and 20mm cutter fit the centrotec or you need to modify the 1/4 inch hex shank. Thanks
Yes, they are true Centrotec as I hope you can see by my use of the Festool drill. Peter
Thanks Peter
Hi Peter - how can I get a copy of the plan? Cheers, Murray I
In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main CZcams page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
"The boss is located" - my wife's just about to go out, not located
Hi Steve - Brilliant ! Peter
Helo Peter how can I get diagram or plan to make this top
All my plans are available free of charge but in order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main CZcams page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Please state which plans you need in your email. Peter
Question: I'm a newbie getting ready to build one of Ron Paulk's Paulk Smart Stations with the Parf Guide Mark 2, and I am wondering if I am making a mistake building it like him using plywood in lieu of MDF (let alone Medite MDF which I'm sure I would have to substitute here in the U.S.). The plywood I am using is 15-ply with a high density hardwood core. Ron claims his dog holes have held up wonderfully for many years, but he's not technically a woodworker or jointer. He's more of a carpenter or finish carpenter. Do the plywood dog hols lose their accuracy much more quickly compared to MDF (especially Medite MDF)? Or is it about something else like problems with glue?
I am not a fan of plywood for tracksaw cutting station tops. The main reasons are that the 20 mm holes are not so good, voids in plywood can ruin accuracy, tear out on the underside is an issue and the kerf line can give you splinters. Poor quality MDF can also be a problem and the better the quality the better the top. Cheers. Peter
Peter, How can I get a copy of the plan for the Ultimate Tracksaw Cutting Station.
Hi Stewart, In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main CZcams page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
You didn’t address how you layout the 48mm holes. How do we align them..
Hi Stewart, The Parf Sticks (rulers) have offset hole positions for 32 mm and 48 mm spacing. All that is needed is for the regular holes to be drilled and then the ruler is moved by 32 mm or 48 mm and located with pins through the respective offset holes. Then the holes are drilled through pin holes 0 to 10 giving the set of offsets required. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thank’s Peter. BTW, I really enjoy your video’s. Very Informative. SC
Peter, curious why you went with the dog holes on 48mm centers instead of the more common 96mm centers. Also, the hole pattern is unique, other than saving a lot of drilling does it serve a particular function, perhaps with the symmetrical projects you mentioned?
The 48 mm spacing gives me more options for securing templates and locating the wood to be cut underneath. Just look at my latest video - Catch-Up October 2023
czcams.com/video/vbBjWpGi6PA/video.html
Peter
Would you please share where I can purchase the power stick and pins?
Do you mean the Parf Guide System? If so, Axminster sell world wide but TSO in the US, Lee Valley in Canada and Carbatec in Australia are the ones that I can remember. Peter
I feel like I wasted my money on the "parf fence fence and stop kit" now. 😐
I was hoping to see how he used it.
Be patient - that will come very soon. Peter
Peter, how do I ask for a copy of your plan?
All my plans are available free of charge but in order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main CZcams page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Please state which plans you need in your email. Peter
And all done for less than a tenner.
So it’s a table with dog holes -- made complicated. There are dozens just like it. What we need to see is THIS table in PRACTICAL USE. You would have to put down a sacrificial foam board (or some material) so you don't cut into the table with a track saw. SO how is this table used with a “ultimate track saw table”?
Gosh, you began your CZcams membership today just to post this comment - brilliant. I have never worried about kerf marks on my tracksaw cutting stations - the cutting station is a tool which is easily replaceable. They usually last for many years and you can always turn them over. I have just uploaded a new video which may help. Peter
How does one get a copy of your new design?
In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main CZcams page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
No email address there...@@NewBritWorkshop
Were you using a PC as suggested?
Yes.
@@NewBritWorkshop I have the same issue. I'm on a PC and there is no email address on the About page. It simply reads, "in order to request plans use my business email address below" but no email address follows.
All I see is a lot of holes - If it was mine what would I use it for?
😱 I’m the first one to comment 🙈. Oh well…, big deal 😂🇫🇮🤠
What was your comment???
Nope, I'm first!
The festool drills sound anaemic and pathetic and are not (currently? Ever?) made in Germany.
Mine all work perfectly and are very robust.
When I watch these kinds of videos where the presenters are working in pristine conditions, using very expensive tools to guide us in our endeavours to make everything perfectly square and symmetrical I think NASA. In my opinion this is not really woodworking, it’s engineering using wood. Each to his own I suppose.
When people come to visit my wife will always make sure the house is clean and tidy. When I make a video I am inviting the audience into my workshop and so I always make sure that it is clean and tidy. Most of this video was shot in the garage which is attached to my untidy workshop. As far as engineering in wood is concerned I accept that as it is the way that professional cabinet makers work - having worked with a few in my time and their machines are amazing. Sanders that can tackle a whole 8x4 sheet and sand to 0.1 mm or better. Saws that cost £70k and upwards and so on. By creating the Parf Guide System I believe that I have given the less well off woodworker the ability to match the accuracy that professional cabinet makers have been enjoying for years. Peter
Still can't buy into this system for the sole reason that overlapping two rulers however thin they are, rather than them meeting flush, will always produce small inaccuracies at the point where they touch.
If you can think of another way of producing 0.001 degree accuracy without overlapping rulers you might be onto a winner !
@@NewBritWorkshop Manufacture the system with two different thicknesses of ruler. The meeting ruler is marginally paired away /rebated on the rear side therefor allowing it sit over the other without any bend. This would account for the overlap 'gap' that the current system produces. Rulers sit flush on workpiece at all times.
That could be easily mitigated by placing the diagonal ruler over top of the perpendicular ruler, and then shimming the diagonal ruler up by the thickness of the rulers, so that you don't lose that tiny fraction of a millimeter when the ruler bends up to meet the other.
To each his own. If you can't stand the idea, that's fair enough.
It doesn't matter to me, it's a means to an end. Woodworking is mainly a practical endeavour, not just a theoretical one. I can put all the measuring systems on my saw to set it perfectly square, but if it won't cut exactly square, I'm setting it theoretically out of square. I'd want to know why, but if it works, it works. I'm not going to spend a week asking why.
This system gets you results beyond what anyone needs for woodworking. If you can't live with the engineering behind this system, I'm curious what your alternative of choice is.
I can see your point but as it stands it's insanely accurate and well within any sort of tolerances that even fine woodworkers would need for the best of furniture. The only time this level of inaccuracy would be an issue would be if you were making extremely long cuts, which puts the system out of its depth anyway.
without translation the video is worthless... Better post it.