What a cool guy! Loads of valuable information. You guys should do more videos together, love the back and forth conversation. Well done! I also like you discuss dollars and cents :P
wow what a great guy. back here on the east coast with the dog eat dog mentality it's rare to have a fella give you such great information cherish your friends they are more valuable than gold
Cultivating a friendship with a gentleman of that ol fellers caliber can net an education that money cant buy. Found your channel from links from Nick and Ester, I'm thinking ol Nick might also be a gold mine of info. Watching you run equipment I'm thinking you have spilt a bit of coffee on the dash of a machine or two. Take care n have fun Jim
when I had my sawmill I would charge an hourly cutting rate because I had several customers that would only want to pay for heartwood width of the boards. for example if we had a 12" wide board but the narrowest part of the heartwood was 2" they only wanted to pay for the 2" wide, but wanted the whole board. Just got easier to use a flat rate. Keep up the great work.
Wow, what an interview. I really enjoyed that. Just came in the house from mine Lt40hd, its a 1996 model that I picked up after 17 years of sitting unused, after the owner died, only 450 hours on it. 2weeks of cleaning and servicing and she runs like a champ. love the hydraulics because I've had a stroke. Keep the videos coming.
Josh: When using full dimension ungraded lumber a 2x4 = 8 sq. inches and a graded 2x6 is 8.25 square inches in cross section. There for you can use full dimension 2x4's on 24" centers where you would use graded 2x6's for out buildings, uninspected cabins etc. If it is to be inspected you must use graded lumber. But make sure it is wane free and only has solid knots equivalent to #2 SPF for framing. Still keep to the span charts in the code books but drop one size with full dimension lumber. In timber frame or pole buildings I still use the graded load size spec. but use full dimension for posts or bigger to allow for notches and mortises . Bert
Also to help with checking and warpage there are end sealers that prevent the wood from drying to quickly causing it to bow and bend. I have never personally used it but plan on checking it out or doing more research once I am closer to milling my own lumber. It would be similar to what box stores like home depot do with dipping the ends in a wax type substance. I have noticed once you cut those ends off the boards they can sure twist and turn if they are still moist and dry too quickly say in a warm home or shop.
I am interested in the woodmizer setup for a small business and home use, I have been looking at the stationary platforms v the mobile models they offer would be interested to hear your views on either models thanks
Essential Mountain Homesteading look forward to seeing them I have followed Red Poppy for a while now and just found your channel while researching woodmizer
This guy was right about lumber going up.. I think he's a time traveler 😂
What a cool guy! Loads of valuable information. You guys should do more videos together, love the back and forth conversation. Well done! I also like you discuss dollars and cents :P
The wisdom from the elders.....priceless! Angel from The Bay
wow what a great guy. back here on the east coast with the dog eat dog mentality it's rare to have a fella give you such great information cherish your friends they are more valuable than gold
John Ball Thanks! We agree with you.
It gets that way fast east of the Mississippi..
great video. good info. I have a homestead, and just placed my order last week on a LT15 mill! will be ready in 8 weeks
Cultivating a friendship with a gentleman of that ol fellers caliber can net an education that money cant buy. Found your channel from links from Nick and Ester, I'm thinking ol Nick might also be a gold mine of info. Watching you run equipment I'm thinking you have spilt a bit of coffee on the dash of a machine or two. Take care n have fun Jim
This Gentleman has a wealth of information that has to be a great resource and experience with what he does for a living! 👍👍👏☝️😍🏡
when I had my sawmill I would charge an hourly cutting rate because I had several customers that would only want to pay for heartwood width of the boards. for example if we had a 12" wide board but the narrowest part of the heartwood was 2" they only wanted to pay for the 2" wide, but wanted the whole board. Just got easier to use a flat rate. Keep up the great work.
Wow, what an interview. I really enjoyed that. Just came in the house from mine Lt40hd, its a 1996 model that I picked up after 17 years of sitting unused, after the owner died, only 450 hours on it. 2weeks of cleaning and servicing and she runs like a champ. love the hydraulics because I've had a stroke. Keep the videos coming.
May I ask how much you gave for your mill ?
Loving the education, thank you!
Lubrication is to keep things cool. It's the same thing ✌️.
This was an outstanding video THANK YOU!
Oh man $15 a sheet. LOL. Look how right that old man turned out to be. The craps 80 a sheet now.
Excellent! Very informative.
Wow, awesome, thanks!!!
Josh: When using full dimension ungraded lumber a 2x4 = 8 sq. inches and a graded 2x6 is 8.25 square inches in cross section. There for you can use full dimension 2x4's on 24" centers where you would use graded 2x6's for out buildings, uninspected cabins etc. If it is to be inspected you must use graded lumber. But make sure it is wane free and only has solid knots equivalent to #2 SPF for framing. Still keep to the span charts in the code books but drop one size with full dimension lumber. In timber frame or pole buildings I still use the graded load size spec. but use full dimension for posts or bigger to allow for notches and mortises . Bert
Bert,
That's some great advice and really well said, please keep sharing your insight. Thank you, Josh@EMH
Bert, I really appreciate you sharing this. I didn't realize there was so much to lumber and especially how it relates to code.
plywood is $45.00 or more a sheet now! Should have bought the forest.
The drying question and answer after 10:00 was good. A picture of banding would be nice.
That's a good idea 💡 I'll do another video about that
Great video
Thanks, I love having Ben out to our place to pick his brain, He has got more experience in his left hand then I have in my whole body.
Also to help with checking and warpage there are end sealers that prevent the wood from drying to quickly causing it to bow and bend. I have never personally used it but plan on checking it out or doing more research once I am closer to milling my own lumber. It would be similar to what box stores like home depot do with dipping the ends in a wax type substance. I have noticed once you cut those ends off the boards they can sure twist and turn if they are still moist and dry too quickly say in a warm home or shop.
Anchor Seal is the brand of end sealer a lot of millers use. Amazon, if you can't find it locally.
Loved this video, we're thinking about a sawmill and trying to decide the best avenue for us, Alaska chainsaw mill or a Wood Mizer. Very informative.
woodmizer for sure
Now 1/2 inch OSB is over $20 where I live. It's crazy.
We are at $24.00 here for a 4x8 sheet of OSB. I have never seen prices so high.
@@EssentialMountainHomesteading man it hasn't gotten better since then
@@EssentialMountainHomesteading now its up to 56 for 7/16
I am interested in the woodmizer setup for a small business and home use, I have been looking at the stationary platforms v the mobile models they offer would be interested to hear your views on either models thanks
I've got some videos coming up along those very lines, Stay tuned!
Essential Mountain Homesteading
look forward to seeing them I have followed Red Poppy for a while now and just found your channel while researching woodmizer
Who is this guy your talking to, and where is he
Awesome solutions for wooden project is woodprix.
If you want you can learn from woodprix scripts how to make it yourself.
Trop de blabla. Scies les gars