Diagnose: Battery Drain / Parasitic Draw - Chevy Trailblazer
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- In this video I bring you along as I diagnose a parasitic draw on a '03 Chevy Trailblazer. Looks to me like it needs a new cluster. Unfortunately the lady is taking it back to the place that replaced the last one because it is under warranty. Also she was having the original clusters (3) replaced because the gauges were going bad, never as attempt to repair the battery draw. Thanks for watching :)
Eric, your video's are timeless.
My dad, long ago, had a metal detector that would stop working intermittently except when it was back at the warranty center. So he came home after the 3rd or 4th time taking it in to be repaired. Where the 9 volt battery connected into the machine, he connected two wires from a wall outlet for a brief moment. The next time he took it for warranty, magically it was broke and they gave him a new one. My dad was a wise man. He didn't need to get angry with anyone - he just 'fixed' the problem. On the 3rd or 4th cluster, I would have fixed that car similarly to how my dad fixed that metal detector. Problem solved.
I have been having the same problem a long with some of the other problems you had mentioned she had. I have never worked on cars before but my '05 Trailblazer was costing me a lot of $ getting parts slapped on so I turned to CZcams and bought me a Haines manual and some tools. I have gone over every fuse + wire checking with my little clip and bulb and learning about vehicle. My husband and neighbors all thought I had just lost my mind and I was just about ready to say I was in over my head when I found it, up under my dash was a ground wire hanging around all by itself. I have replaced battery, alternator, thermostat, map sensor, secondary air valve, throttle body cleaned, and the panel. Other problems I still had: random disco interior lights, blower motor, reverse bulb blowing, passenger door not opening from inside, radio turning itself off, stalling out when driving slow and in reverse, abs + of course the check engine light. I couldnt tell where it came from but i tucked it between a screw and metal from the knee panel and jumped her. 9 days and so far no problems and everything works. Except for a flat tire and now a broken spare tire winch courtesy of the tire shop. Just would be interested in knowing what your thoughts are. Is this even possible? Where is it supposed to be located? I know it has to be a fluk. I liked the way you explained things in your videos helped me out when I was researching. I was raised a Chevy girl but they really dropped the ball on the trailblazer from what Ive seen and read! I noticed my parents are driving a Toyota and a Honda these days hmmm....I hope it is possible or people really will think Ive gone mad when I turn it into a bonfire!!
When I worked in vehicle maintenance for the government, their security trucks were 05-08 Silverados. Each and every 1 of them had at least 3 clusters put in them, all new Chevy pieces, before their leases expired. Usually they were either lit up like a Christmas tree, or they were just 'dead'. Never saw 1 draw current before, and didn't know about that buss bar, ( I will have to look for that, assuming more GMs than just Trailblazers use that) so learned something new today!
I'm a new subscriber and have been enjoying going back and watching Eric's older videos. His more recent fix of the '03 Silverado with the same symptoms pretty much explained the root cause here. Those instrument clusters were manufactured with lead free solder. Back in that time frame not as much was known about the drawbacks of lead free solder, including silver migration which causes small whiskers that grow over time from the solder joints. Eventually they will begin shorting out parts of the circuit and that's probably what happened here.
yep that is right on the money
South Main Auto Repair I had a 2005 dodge caravan.. dodge had the same problem with the lead free solder.. places on eBay sell resoldered clusters for a fair price..
I was thinking of power issue would cause a short or damage in the cluster. And if there was a short or power issue, the cluster would fail. Your explanation makes a hell of a lot of sense and it's extremely reasonable
The basis of my opinion is 40 years and I T. I've seen many weird problems with electrical systems in computers circuit boards, power supplies yeah, some of the stuff would raise the hair on the back of your neck! Not from fear but from Power discharge! My son powered on a computer once and there was a loud pop and it turned off. The power supply popped turned it on. The loud pop though wasn't the power supply. I disassemble the computer and found that one of the IC's or integrated circuits, chips, on the hard drive controller board had a hole in it. Essentially when the power supply on the computer went bad it sent a surge through the 12 volt leg, it literally blew a hole in one of the chips. One night I was operating the Mainframe and I saw smoke blowing out of one of the tape drives what time is it now. One of these tape drives is about five and a half feet tall. They definitely aren't supposed to blow smoke! I ran over and pop the back cover open, the blower motor was in Flames but still running! we had a field engineer on site at the moment and he came over and asked her what the problem was and I told him and he's like what he looks down at the motor and there's melted stuff running out of it!
I know this is from a long time ago but just like me there are still plenty of people who have GMC models ( with body control module with key-pass). I have a 07 GMC envoy and I came across your video when out of no where our battery was intermittently having a dead battery after sitting one night. At first it was not so bad but progressed to all the time. I was an avionics tech for FedEx and aircraft mechanic and figured if I could find weird problems in every type jet I could fix this. I started first by hooking up a current meter (had one off a old ohm meter that read milliamps and could actually see what was the draw). I disconnected negative terminal and place it between the negative battery and cable and found with no key in doors closed was drawing around 700 ma which is way to high when should be around 50ma max. as I pulled fuses under hood found no fuse had any big influence so went under rear seat fuse box. The first fuse I pulled was one of the 5 or so fuses that ran to body control module. I know this module can be a pain in the ass because of the security system gmc had installed to stop car thefts but really only caused owners to get stranded when it went bad. I know you must know you can not just change out one from a junk yard because it has to be programmed to your key and in my case will lock out radio and fuel injectors as well as wont let you crank in some cases. any way when I pulled one of the fuses I saw my amp meter shoot way up past the 1 amp max the meter was able to handle. I decided to leave the fuses in and monitor the BCM just sitting there. what I found is when the vehicle is just sitting there doors closed like you just woke up to get in car so any time delay was over was reading 75 milliamps which again is to high. When I opened drivers side door you activate the BCM and the current will jump up to around 750 milliamps. This is because you wake up the BCM to run interior lights and so on, then after around 20 seconds or so it drops down to around 100 ma then a few seconds after rested at the around 100 ma. I did this numerous times and the same happened. From another problem with secturity system problems I went to junk yard and found 2 BCM's with same part number but like I said you can jumper in but car wont start and radio will lock up. It will crank but the injectors are told to shut off so it is only good for things like this parasitic voltage leaks. When I put the replacement BCM in I noticed because battery is going to it it will go to the high draw 700 ma then drop 20 seconds later to around 100 ma then a few seconds after that it dropped to almost nothing around 15 -20 ma. When I seen that I tested it by opening and closing door which is the same as when you swap it out. I opened door and once again ran up to 700 ma 20 sec later 100ma and then right after down to 15-20 ma. So now it is looking like its the original BCM that for some reason when it times out it stayed at 100ma way to high and with replacement down to perfect low am draw.This has to be my problem and I wanted to verify by putting back original but then it started acting just like the replacement. I don't know if it could have been a connection going to the BCM it has 3 different connectors one being a ribbon cable. I kept original and ran test over and over by opening drivers door only and watch the BCM come alive with the 700 amp then go down to the 100 then down to the 15-20 . I know the original did it because i videoed it and ran test at least 10 times hanging up at 100 ma.
Sorry about explanation being so long I just want people to under stand the smallest thing could cause the parasitic draw and I believe if I was you in this case (but it was 5 years ago lol) would have tried at least clean the connectors and replace back on if you don't have a spare to try. If it fixed your problem the you would have to put original back in so it will start have them either put replacement back in but only they can program the BCM to accept you key and or key cylinder. I can see why I never found a good specific find on here because it could be anything but the last thing to power down is the BCM. hope this helps someone to under stand how it works.
Great job narrowing it down. I haven't worked in a shop in 17 years so im rusty, you helped refresh my brain. My 02 has been draining the battery and I've been to lazy as i don't exactly enjoy troubleshooting electrical problems, but i think i may pull out the multi meter and have a look . I noticed sometimes my interior lights and dash don't want to go to sleep so i turned the dimmer switch all the way down seems to help but if it sits a week it's dead. Thanks for sharing !
Waiting for the battery going dead is killing it quickly and permanently. Batteries really don't like it when drawn completely empty. I would suggest to have a look soon :-)
Hi Gary. What was the fix? I have the same problem. Thanks!
@@grooooved it was the computer under the back seat I forget what it was for but I decided the truck wasn't worth putting that much money into it so I just disconnected the ground cable when I wasn't going to use it
Cluster was definitely replaced via a junk pull. Agree that the yellow writing on the back is a Hugh indicator! Great video!
2004 Envoy, same crap. The clusters are notoriously known for going dark. From my research, best thing is to fix the original clusters motherboard. Have a professional re-solder the connections... After 3 batteries and more boosts than I'll ever know, that's where I'm at
Thinking alot of these circuit boards regardless of application are candidates for parasitic draw. My little jump starter utilizes a board to process (in my opinion too much, it's just a jump starter for goodness sakes) condition of battery among other things. It was constantly drawing down the battery . Once I cut the ties it had and just was utilizing the off/on switch on the unit, it never happened again. Of course now my charging is done thru the battery clamps with a separate charger, but now it stays charged. As someone mentioned, and I now know, it was a problem with the type of solder used on the boards. Thanks Eric, great video again as I'm circling back thru your excellent catalog of videos !
Once my man pulled out the wiring diagram I started listening. That's the difference between a mechanic and a technician in a nutshell.
My daughters vehicle is doing this, the instrument cluster is erratic she taps on the dash to get it back. My first thought was the cluster I was thinking a draw there somewhere so I'm glad I ran across this.
Very very late to this video, but I have infact had a 2003 chevy cluster draw down a battery. The power and ground pins being provided to the DIC part of the cluster were not intact, causing it to just continually draw .3 amps. Reflowed the pins on the back of the cluster where it connects, cleaned up the pins and the connecter, reinstalled and everything was good.
I came across your channel trying to figure out why my 03 Envoy is draining 2A! And no, I didn't read the multimeter wrong...
My battery lasts about a day, so I disconnect it at night to not have to jump it each morning. That fuse buddy looks like a great tool to find out where to start. Just subbed, great channel! Very consice and professional!
Nice video. I enjoyed watching your parasitic draw thinking process. The way I like to do parasitic draw checks is with a voltmeter. Instead of pulling the fuse and looking for current change. I like to put my meter on milivolts and do a voltage drop test across the top of the fuse (little connection points on the top of fuses). If the meter shows 0.000 voltage drop then you know that circuit is not drawing current (no measurable voltdrop, no current flow, make sense) if you see 0.001 or 0.002 milivolts or something like that you know that circuit is drawing current, and if you see the voltage jumping around (ghost voltage) you know you do not have a good connection on the fuse. This is a technique I like to use when looking for parasitic drains, I believe it is much faster method and you dont have to pull a single fuse to find the current draw.
Anyway, I am with you I think the IC is toast. It has been awhile since I diagnosed a class 2 network fault, but if I suspect a module staying on and corrupting the network. I like to use a scope with one lead on dlc pin 2 and the other lead on dlc, pin 4,5, or a good ground. With the ignition off and shut down the voltage should be zero (pulled low when off). A class 2 network with the ignition on should be toggling back and fourth between o and 7 volts (square wave pattern) that is how you know it is communicating properly. If ignition is on and voltage is stuck high or stuck low there is a problem in the network. Next step is just like you did go to the splice pack (I like gm for those splice packs, makes it easier) and remove splice pin to isolate the modules, and check each isolated pin in the splice pack for voltage to ground. The modules that are good will be toggling 0-7V and the one that is bad will be stuck high or stuck low. The way I see it about the only thing you can do is check power and grounds to the module and check the network data line for communication (0-7v toggling). Also in class I remember using a tech 2 to ping a module to check (SOH) state of health of module. Well that is what I remember from my Automotive electrical class which I took awhile ago. I hope I am remembering right but as you know there are a lot of different types of networks on cars and each type has various testing methods. Well anyway great video. Have a good day.
Wouldn't it be miliamps, not milivolts to measure current across a fuse?
Very informative Kudos.
While you are correct that mA measures current in series (like a MAF sensor for airflow}, the mV check is measuring in parallel (like a MAP sensor).
Each electrical component has some resistance. Voltage drop equals resistance multiplied by current. This is how an ammeter works internally: Current can't be measured directly, so it gets passed through a shunt resistor; the voltage drop gets measured, then converted to current.
* Clarifying: Then the voltage measurement gets converted to a current reading. My initial wording was vague.
Nice video. Well done. After many pain staking hours of searching I came across your video. This helps a lot. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I had a similar problem where my battery would drain and I would have to put the charger on the battery to get the car to start. I used to travel a lot and would park the car at the airport for weeks on end and luckily never had the problem. I then realized how lucky I was that I only experienced The drain in my garage in the proximity of my battery charger. Then it hit me that since it only happened in my garage that the difference was that the key remained in the ignition since the vehicle was secure in my garage, and that was the only time that it would drain the battery. Ever since then I remove the key completely even in my garage and I never have a battery drain. I really never fixed the problem. I just removed the contributor to the problem.
This is a known issue with the 04 Trailblazer a faulty cluster gauge once the vehicle hits approximately 70k mi.
Had a similar issue on a 2004 Trailblazer. Battery would drain over a couple days. Everything checked out, but would have to charge it frequently. Also the drivers front window was intermittent. I troubleshot that to a current/voltage sensitive relay in the switch panel, but finally found the real culprit to be the lock/unlock motor in the tailgate. The plastic motor was cracked and had pulled out of the gear housing, so it would run constantly instead of stopping when the liftgate would unlock. Repaired the motor, charged the battery and all is working as advertised.
Did that motor make noise though?
that's a good one, check everything in the head and the hole time it was the ass that was ruined LOL
The amp probe doesn't lie! Looks like an internal cluster short to me too. Great diagnostic approach! Those early 2000s GM clusters have so many issues that some shops actually specialize in rebuilding them...guess it's good for creating jobs lol
Love the GM's as much as the Chrysler's :)
Another classic SMA; nice to see the progress on showing diagrams!!! But still the same great guy doing right for the customer and always a great video :)
You are about the most loveliest man I've ever learned from.....
Susan De HERRERA
Mrs O...
Forgot to mention... if you don't have a thermal camera, you can use lighter fluid on the components on the pcb. The hot one will immediately evaporate the Ronson. And.. take a can of air, shake it, turn it upside down, and spray the PCB to deposit a frost layer. The hot item will immediately melt the ice. The frost layer will not injure the components.
I have also replaced GM clusters from that era over the years. Usually for the instruments not working but never for a current draw. Judging from the yellow paint marker on the back that is from the junkyard. You mentioned Dorman, I didn't know that they supplied them. I also have seen tank senders in Trailblazers and Envoys go bad but that shouldn't be the problem. If this were my job I would try to get my hands on a cluster from the junkyard just to see if the problem remains. If its gone then decide whether to go new, used, or rebuilt. Sometimes a part is worth hours of testing!
Unfortunately the lady is taking it back to the place that replaced the last one because it is under warranty. Also she was having the original clusters (3) replaced because the gauges were going bad, never as attempt to repair the battery draw. She was told it was a rebuilt one? I see the paint too. Yeah Dorman re-mans them now just as a fyi, I have never used a dorman one though. This one also had a united radio sticker on it too... Thanks for watching :)
I agree with everyone that you've got a bad cluster. My first thoughts as you were talking was that if any outputs from the cluster were on such as indicator lights, gauges in wrong spots, etc., but even still those items should be off anyway. Since you checked the outputs for current and there wasn't any on them, then it looks like you have an internal shortage somewhere inside the cluster. Good video Eric...
Yep that was my thoughts too Terry but just thought I'd show my though process though this one in case someone else runs across this.
I had an 05 gmc Sierra with a draw on the instrument cluster. Turned out to be a bad cluster. Got one from the Irish parts store and it went away for two weeks and came back. Turned out that one was bad too. Got another one from the same place and it's been about a year with no problems. It had me chasing my tail after that first replacement. The factory new one was more than twice the cost, so he price shopped me. I had no idea the parts stores even sold clusters. I wish I still didn't!
mobilemechman Lol yeah there are days I wish I knew they didn't sell certain parts too haha. Well good story thanks for sharing sounds like this situation. Glad you got it fixed too.
You are great, very detail oriented. I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado, that has the same problem. Took it to my mechanic all they did was the computer test and that was that. I disconnected, the radio, the insight lights and that worked for a while. Now all of the sudden it is back to a day or less. Right now is dead on my driveway, will call AAA tomorrow. It seems like a lot of the Chevys have this problem. I owned a 1996 Chevy Tahoe for 12 years and never gave me any problems, I wish I never gave it away. :(
I know after reading comments that the IC was the problem. I have repaired electronic products to the component level for 30 years. After watching the video I considered this. What if you install another cluster that is confirmed good by being used in another car and does not have the current draw problem. After you install it and reconnect the battery you monitor the current without opening the doors or turning on the key and confirm the part is still good. Then try turning on different things like the key, or the headlights or move the fuel sensor you mentioned in the video. Then see if the problem develops in the IC. Something on one of the lines going to the IC could be damaging it. There may be a regulator Integrated circuit or diode that gets damaged after something else connected to it draws excessive current. I have seen this happen many times in TVs and audio equipment.
new clusters don't have "03 TRAILBLAZER" in yellow paint on them. that's a junkyard part.
I agree with you , my same thought...
SilentServiceCode I agree, she had taken it back to the place that installed it and had it warrantied for free and the problem is gone now.... some times it is hard to get a straight story from a customer ya know. They may only relay what they have been told...
South Main Auto Repair
Does this have anything to do with the HVAC switching from a/c to Heat? My Yukon Denali does this and usually on the hottest days of the year. Great video gotta go get my multi meter out.
@@randyrose6175 I have 2004 chevy trail blazer nothing works on cluster panal, radio works sometimes when car gets very hot inside. Engine dies when you turn air on or heater, new alternator, now battery going dead, had to chevy dealer, they dont know what's wrong with it.
Had a parasitic draw on my old Escort. Got out the multimeter-sometimes a draw sometimes not. Thought it could be the automatic seatbelt motors hanging up, bad battery, etc. Went on for a year with intermittent draw and a dead battery every 2 or 3 months. Finally one day I flipped sun visor down and the vanity mirror cover falls off. The cloth holding it had disintegrated so it was the little vanity lights making the draw-just enough over time to kill battery. Lesson learned.
I went threw those same problems on a 2500 Silverado replaced the cluster twice the 3rd time I just installed a relay on the wire black with white stripe I believe that was color been working 3 or 4 yrs no long term affects that i can see
I had an issue with one and typical Friday afternoon at 5 problem. I took the wire that feeds it and put a small relay in line. I hooked that up to an ignition line and it band-aid the issue. I didn't see it again until it needed an emission test over a year later and yes it set a U code. Cool video.
Eric that cluster by the yellow paint marker behind it looks like it was pulled from a junk yard.
Close, that looks like a recycling yard part. It's got a stock number on it, which means they inventoried their cars and the yard pulls the parts itself.
I have the same issue with my 07 envoy Denali... currently waiting on a new cat and changing the front struts and oil pan gasket, starter, looking forward to running these tests once its back together.
Hi there. Love your channel. I have a '99 Lexus Rx300. I solved this problem by removing all the interior light bulbs. Then I make sure the car is locked overnight. That stopped the problem.
Eric, just sent my 2003 Envoy IPC into United Radio same problem (parasitic draw) they received today and they shipped it out today have it tomorrow. Asked what they did? Told me they exchanged it. Hopefully I won't get someone's else's problem. Warranty is for a year including shipping I think it will workout. Time will tell. Thanks for the video would have taken a while to locate for sure or at least hard to believe that is the cause, pulled the fuse and waited 2 days fired right up.
Had very similar issues in a 2003 Suburban 1500LT....including a main beam light that would come on all by itself - just flickering- even when the car was locked and asleep. Similarly the draw was over 0.25A. As an electronics engineer originally my thoughts were its still working but something is adding a draw. So firstly dismantle the instrument panel down to the circuit board. Secondly clean it with alcohol. Finally re-solder every joint you can see. It worked for me. Given it costs nothing to try and you can do it in a few hours in the evening its worth attempting a repair before buying a new IP. Certainly look for any signs of moisture or staining on the board as its highly likely to be the conduit. I'm somewhat forced into this as I'm maintaining the burb over in the UK where is virtually no support for US cars.
Okay yes, it's an 8 year old video, but I have two thoughts after first congratulating you on your diagnostics (Congratulations!)...... First, disconnecting and connecting the battery kills blend door motors (just sayin!) ...... Second, you have completely isolated the draw and it can be eliminated by pulling that fuse...... So why not install a toggle switch with wires plugged into that fuse position and one of those wires could have an inline fuse for protection..... Yeah, it's a little bit hillbilly, but way cheaper than installing a fourth (potentially defective) $200 cluster......It's a cheap and easy fix that doesn't require cutting into any wires...
Maybe i am not articulating the way I want to say this. Maybe the draw is coming through the cluster form somewhere else on the vehicle and not the cluster. So if you Monitor the orange wire that's drawing the current. unplug other components in the vehicle this might identify what component is really causing the problem other than the cluster.. What I am thinking is that the current is going thorough cluster from some other part of the car.. hope that helps
Carm0083 Hmmm Guess I am not sure how I could have missed it though because like I mentioned in the video I tested every single "output" wire of the cluster to make sure that wasn't happening. Unless there could be a draw with no current flow in which case is way beyond my ability to find and I wouldn't have a clue how to locate that.
Thank you very much sir! Had same issues with same year trailblazer. Went the route you did. Sure enough the cluster was the draw! Went few steps further testing to confirm like yourself. An installed the doorman unit an so far so good 👍🏼. Thank you sir. Definitely helpful info
I hope the youtube vids pay enough to cover all the time you spend making videos. Appreciate it:)
Eric, if you need a cluster contact SPECMO ENTERPRISES in Michigan. They specialize in all types of instrument clusters have quality products with great reviews. GREAT VIDEO.
Great info. My 08 suburban does the same. The battery dies every few days. I always hear the radio make noises every time I sit in it. With the key been on the ignition. I am looking forward to removing it for a few days and see what it does. Thank you again for the info
I believe one of the cluster lamps is the issue. It happened on my 2002 Trailblazer.
I unsoldered all and replaced them. Lost the amp draw.
unplug it , if the draw goes away, then it is bad. Simple ?
Looks like a used cluster by the markings on it ....
It is not that simple, there are modules where they are controlled by another module actuating a module. Diagrams are good but once you get into the network, that's where we don't know what each module is communicating to the other. He tried to get rid of that by cancelling the CAN network which worked so it became simpler.
Why do people hate themselves so bad to own these cars haha? Nice video as always, it's nice to see precise diagnosis which seems to be rare these days.
Dan.vaku Hey now us mechanics *love* these cars :)
it's the adventure, we just love them!
I heard those were notorious for failure, so if she's had three then I guess the rumor isn't too far off. Thanks for the video.
Many 2003 to 2006 GM instrument clusters can cause a parasitic draw from the cluster. Good job on your test efforts and narrowing it down to the cluster. Our rebuilds for the common models will resolve this issue with a lifetime warranty on the rebuild.
Your Info please I have the same issue
Hey, Ive had my 03 envoy now for about 6 months. I have gone over tons of forums and watches hours of videos. I haven't come across anyone mention this unless I've missed something. I wanted to start mentioning it in different places I've been to try and figure out the cluster issue I'm having. I know lots of people have had issues with the speedometers I think they're called. Mine started with just flickering gauges and then the needles would stop but every time I would start the car and wait a few minutes or just start driving it would eventually just reset itself and everything would work great until I stop. But as quick at my stop started to back up and kept going it would just work right away normal. If I took a while to get back to the car to take off it would do the same thing where it flicker until it would eventually reset itself again. Mine isn't the speedometers behind the gauges. Mine seems to be the harness that plugs into the top of the cluster. GM really did a good job at making sure the harness wires come out of the cluster and sit there freely but instead they hit the top plastic bend them backwards and it pulls back on the harness and breaks that contact inside the cluster. Whenever I pull forward hair on the harness and push in a little bit it works perfect every freaking time. I've rigged up some quick things to help it stay in place but with the bumps you hit potholes in the city and crap eventually will start flickering again in the contact breaks. And then I think when I shut the car down you can hear the gauges going on and off like trying to shut it's self-down. Something's draining my battery and I was thinking that was it. I tried pulling the IPC/DIC fuse and didn't help at all. I like your video because It gave me more detail about the cluster that I didn't know. I wanted to see if what I commented here now helps anybody. If so let me know please. I'd really appreciate it. I just wanted to mention it here and I will and some other places to just to see if I can help anybody out with this damn cluster issue that everybody seems to have a problem with. Let me mention mine was replaced back at 44,000 mi in 2006 I think it was. So I have about 150 on it now and have it changed once. But I wonder with the person you're talking about having replaced it three or four other times or whatever it was if it's because those wires keep tugging on the harness and breaking contact inside the cluster. My question is if I buy a new harness and wire it in with those new contacts inside the harness hold up when I plug it into the cluster or if I'm actually just going to have to replace the cluster but the closer works perfect like I said when I just push down on it so I'm also wondering if this contacts are a little loose and if they can be repent with something a little thicker to help the contact be stiffer. If that makes sense I'm not a professional mechanic I'm going to do it yourself for and I will say I've always been able to figure it out but with CZcams and some common sense. These videos are awesome I really enjoy the ones I've seen this far on several different things. I like how your detailed and give Great detailed information on the process and all the way up to a conclusion. Definitely liked and subscribed. Again if anyone has anything they could add to this that would be great or just letting me know if I've missed stuff out there and just missed it before I start copy and pasting majority of this for other online forums having to do with trailblazers envoys etc. Oh sorry it's so long lol
My trailblazer (05 - 4.2) has all sorts of weird stuff going on. Such as , fuel guage stopped working, then battery voltage needle goes crazy and the temperature needle has been pinned full and stuck there. Also , the speakers (which I understand door chimes run through) kick in and out . This same thing is just recently started on my trailblazer and immediately my first thought was either the security door chimes behind radio or cluster panel.
This video just convinced me to buy a Fuse Buddy.
I have an 05 Envoy. The cluster panel hasn't worked in awhile as far as the hands go, concerning oil pressure, fuel, tac, & charge hand. Recently it's started killing batteries! At times the radio will come on when the key is turned to the on position. Was fixing to start taking fuses out to find where the arc was coming from at the battery. But after watching your vudeo. I'm thinking it may very well be the cluster panel. What says you?
Nice video!
The 'cluster' seems to be a common fail issue with these. I am currently having the same issue (I believe) on my '02' Blazer, but I just have not addressed it yet lol. I believe my problem is a solder issue. Hit a bump and lose the MLG/SHIFT lights. Bad solder is usually the fix. It will start there and see where it takes me from there.
I’m having the same issue with my 02 trailblazer if you find the solution to the problem (or one possible solution at least) please let me know
@@boomgraphics2786 Does your gear/trip indictor go off when you hit a bump?
@@JimmyJamZ1221 couldn’t tell ya lol battery has been shot for years
@@boomgraphics2786 The solder is the issue here (for me) they used led free solder. It causes the board on the cluster to get spots on it that has to be cleaned then re-soldered using good solder. Isotone will clean the board up. I hope that helps ya. You need to get a battery tho lol
@@JimmyJamZ1221 hahaha ofc gotta pour more money into the 💩 box thanks man I’ll try it out
As someone already said, that cluster has yellow paint on the back stating what vehicle it was pulled out of at the wrecking yard.
Clock radio have caused me to bang my head. I disconnected the wire harness to check. I’ve had replacement fuse box in a expedition Ford. My problem is with the HVAC behind drivers seat. The DVD player rear radio and front heater out and fuse 36 cause a draw and battery light to stay on. It might be a fuse box problem.
Thanks Eric. I'm still in the catch up mode with your channel so again, I'm here late.
+wyattoneable Pace your self man lol
Thank You! Very self explanatory, step by step!! Thank you bunches!!!
Wow Eric you know all the tricks and have all the gun power:D I would have pulled the cluster connector and shown the drop just for tickles. Awesome work thanks for sharing!
Absalon Last Ahh ya see where are your suggestion when I need them lol. Thought about that just didn't do it for some reason. Guess your gonna have to trust me huh haha? Will have to start doing live feeds now...
I def trust you Eric, you are honest and as good as a tech can be. Live feed now and than would be exiting, hey I would suggest everything that comes to mind and that sometimes includes checking YourTube haha....
I think there is a short in the harness itself that plugs into the instrument cluster.
yes the problem is the solder you got to go to the dealer to buy the up date cluster that will fix it your check out is 100%right
I think you are there. One thing I've learned about electrical problems is once you find the problem it is what everybody thought it was, but no one could repair it before you. been there and still doing that . Ha Ha Right Good luck Bro.
Lol thanks George Heri
Great help, Fuse buddy confirmed same problem on my 07 Trailblazer. There is a newer version
Fuse Buddy for the smaller fuses. NAPA has em
wen are you going to put some new videos up Eric I love watching them in the morning wen I'm drinking my coffee
Nice find. Obviously a new cluster fixed the issue.
Question: did you look to see if there were any aftermarket wire taps on this circuit? Did the current draw at the fuse go to zero with the dash unplugged?
I have a 2002 doing the same thing on me right now. A mechanic who also had the same car told me it is the REAR fuse box and it's a dropped neutral. He said in the back rear floorboard, water or juice or anything can get in there and cause a dropped neutral, he said it's just a terrible place to have a fuse box (whatever).
Never could fix problem like yours, had to put in master switch on battery so could kill power.
great video, most ppl won't go through what where when and how
Would/Could/Should you fix it by connecting the fuse to a key-hot relay like the fuel pump for example so it doesn't drain while switched off? The incandescent bulbs may have a shunt to let current flow around them.
One example is in miniature Christmas lights which are wired in series. When the filament burns out in one of the incandescent light bulbs, the electrical resistance becomes very high. The much higher voltage that this creates (equal to the full line voltage rather than the normal voltage divider level) causes the shunt to short out (becoming an antifuse) and become part of the circuit, again allowing electricity to pass and the set to light. If too many lights burn out however, a shunt will also burn out, requiring the use of a multimeter to find the point of failure.
smc We could have put it to a keyed power and problem solved you are right. Unfortunately the lady is taking it back to the place that replaced the last one because it is under warranty. Interesting what you say about the shunts.
I had a loose copper thread of wire that fell in the contract area of ribbon that connects to back seat fuse block. It caused my windows to still operate the battery light and the dash lights stayed on and if you dimmed them off it would flash/blink with battery light. It shut off key on or starting or turning lights on etc. I removed the wire and all is well.
my 04 has been in and out of the dealer for few years for this exact issue they have changed almost everything costing me into the $1000s of dollars so lets make a trip to the old pic-n-pull and see if a cluster fixes my issue.
Lead free solder causes lots of problems: cold solder joints and corrosion whiskers.
Exactly, Stop plucking and chucking.. take it apart clean the board and then reflow the solder joints with leaded.. That will fix 99% of these chevys
Thanks
I have a 1997 blazer I started having to jump It everyday, I replaced the battery and still have to jump it everyday. The radio/cd player Is an after market and thought that was my problem, but I also have my #2 fuse removed cuz my entry lights would stay on or the fuse would blow. Also, the floor board lamp bulbs are removed cuz they wouldn’t turn off. I’m not sure If the years are the same model, but I suppose I could check the cluster. I have a multimeter, but I can only locate the one fusebox on the side of the dash. I have relays In the glovebox. I also started to think maybe my ignition or something with my fuel level sending unit cuz i had to replace my fuel pump a year ago, and it helps it start when i pump the gas, or possibly my back latch but I hear no sound when car is off for a latch motor or whatever.
I wish you were close.. I'm in Philadelphia having problems with my envoy XUV 2004. My gauges were the first to go now my battery is draining.. I can't seem to find a mechanic that understands my truck at all.. Great video!!
Do you ever get near State College? If so Ivan can have a look at it for you. czcams.com/users/motoYam82
E-mailed you from my private e-mail... Would like to take the ride out there just to see what's going on...a lot happening all at once. Maybe it's just getting old but seems like it started when I had a radio put in.. The first thing I noticed is the radio didn't stay on anymore when I turned the key off... I honestly don't know... Thank you for answering me.. Maybe we can plan a visit soon.. Thank you Dottie
Silver migration due to lead free solder used in that timeframe.
Info is from source that rebuids instrument clusters.
Hey Eric, please make no mistake about it. I could be completely wrong about this. I am just throwing ideas out there that may be the cause of the problem other then the cluster. (I am guessing) :) it does look like the current draw is coming from cluster and that is the problem with the car. You know sometimes there are common problems in a particular brand of car. All of these trailblazers could have the same problem and you just have another one in your shop.
By the way i am a real fan of your channel and i like the way you get straight to the point on your repairs, that's cool. i am learning alot of your tricks that will help me in my repairs.
Keep the videos coming and Thanks for all the hard work.
Hey man sometimes all we can do is take our best educated guess haha. Thanks for watching glad it can get you a few tricks along the way :)
It's really pathetic that you can take a car to the manufacturers dealership and they can't fix it.
Not really ,It's not the Tech's fault. How G.M. is Driving Technicians out of the Trade. Article on iATN
www.iatn.net/forums/7/42318/how-g-m-is-driving-technicians-out-of-the-trade
So do you have any facts or articles to back this up by chance? Also, that was a *USED CLUSTER* it appears....
It was a faulty cluster wasn't that the issue?
Problem is they hire guys out of tech school that dont knw anything because they can pay them less money vs an experience tech that wants to get pay what his worth
Luis Menendez spot on!
I would definitely have to ask what failed and when on the other clusters. Does the battery problem predate the gauge replacements? Love these types of videos keep them coming.
Unfortunately the lady is taking it back to the place that replaced the last one because it is under warranty. Also she was having the original clusters (3) replaced because the gauges were going bad, never as attempt to repair the battery draw. Thanks for watching :)
Interesting video gives me a lot to think about I have currently no crank no start on my 2003 trailblazer looking forward to next one
This appears to be a junkyard cluster. When you pulled out the cluster out it had yellow marker writing on the back of it that indicated that it was not a new unit.
Yeah it did and it also had a sticker on it from United Radio indicating it was rebuilt. I didn't notice that (i dunno how) until vid was done and I was putting it back together. Bound to happen when I got so many irons in the fire through out the day..
I believe you just answered your own question I would say it's the draw from your fuel tank sensor
Very thorough explanation
I don't know what my battery draw is, but I had a similar problem on my 2005 Blazer and put in a Mechanical Kill Switch to the battery which stopped the problem... my instrument panel is also "going bad" the first things my new mechanic said is that he's replace his Chevy cluster 2 or 3 times... so yes, multiple clusters can go bad... but is it the cluster or something that is Killing the cluster... my Voltage gauge almost did a 360 deg rotation and my Oil pressure fluctuates between 14.5 and 19v but the charging system checks out fine... He's thinking the Battery Charging Regulator might also be bad.
My truck had the same issue and battery drain. Damn stepper motors.
250mA is in the ball park for a small incandescent bulb draw and it looks like there are several in the cluster. Maybe pull the bulbs out of the cluster as a quick test to eliminate those? I also see that there is an internal 12v rail that feeds all the bulbs and led. If you could isolate and disconnect that rail internally than that would eliminate bulb or shorted led. Before you put a new unit back in scope the 12v & gnd lines at the cluster. Make sure there are no high voltage spikes on the pwr lines which could be burning out the cluster.
Unfortunately the lady is taking it back to the place that replaced the last one because it is under warranty.
South Main Auto Repair Your always asking "if we know of a good tool". Snap On Bluepoint EECT74 Amp Hound . It allows you to measure voltage drop across fuses and translates it into a current draw through the fuse. Since you are measuring voltage across the fuse you don't have to pull the fuses. Not having to pulls fuses is better for debugging parasitic draw because it doesn't disturb the sleep status of computer and accessories. You can make the same measurement with a very sensitive meter and a set of lookup tables, but the AmpHound meter with tables built in is faster and less error prone.
Funny you mention that, the Mac guy was just in Friday (yesterday) and I see they had them on sale this week and I was wondering if I should own one... you may have made up my mind :)
South Main Auto Repair IMO, you can just use a DVOM and use DC mV and use this chart.
info.powerprobe.com/fusechartsdownload
Thanks ***** . I love power probe stuff and use it often but have never poked around on there site. Appreciate that :)
My Isuzu ascender 2004, had a nasty drain. 24 hours in my car will go dead. I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the anti-theft system, so I focused on the Little Red Dot on the radio. Long story short, I pulled the 15 amp radio fuse and now my car stays charged just fine. Hope this helps. Weird right?
I'm looking at one that does same thing. I installed a battery disconnect to relieve the parasitic drain. Once I did this...a new issue with headlights began... I don't know if it's coincidence, but I'm going to check the low beam relay because they said the high beams work. This problem is persistent even with switch in ON as well as automatic.... I'm now wondering if the headlight switch, thinking high beam/low beam indicator as well and other driver preferences integrate with headlights, wipers and security(headlights flash when locking up using key fob), runs thru the cluster and tho you isolated the cluster from other modules signals... Is it possible that there's something in the distribution box that could possibly feed power to the cluster? If not, I would bet that it'll end up being the fuel sensor causing cluster to draw power... My next best guess is squirrels!
I have a observation of my own,
I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy 2dr SLS 4WD. It seems like I need a new battery every year... and now that fall weather is falling, here I am trying to trouble shoot this. Cus my battery is failing and I don't buy cheap batteries! Interstate is what I have now and last time.
anyways, when I turn off my Jimmy, I have always noticed that the P N R D 123 light bar glows (extremely dim) on the Park side and the needle on the fuel gauge will slowly move from empty (at pin) all the way over to past the full mark.
my cluster must be draining and killing my battery. I'm going to look into this more.
I'm with you, I have a 2005 Trailblazer and it has an interstate battery (truck currently sitting in my driveway dead) The alternator is new so hope it's just an old battery
I have the same exact thing going on with my 2002 Chevy Tahoe, sits for two days and the battery is dead. Changed everything bat. Alti. Start. Still does same thing. Keep up the videos I am going to check my instrument cluster tomorrow, you are a big help!:) post the out come!;)
Lee Schafer Yeah better check it for parasitic draw and see if you can locate the circuit that is draining it. Here is a handy chart if you dont have an inductive meter info.powerprobe.com/fusechartsdownload
Thank you!:)
Did you ever fix the issue?
Yeah the instrument cluster was replaced just like it was diagnosed in the video and everything has been fine sense.
+ South Main Auto Repair what about a faulty ignition switch? ....
Great channel Eric, I have been a subscriber for several years & watch most of your videos' I have a workshop overseas in S.E. Asia for the past 36 years. I would like to know if you could tell me where I could get decent wiring diagrams for various brand vehicles. Most of the ones I either purchased or downloaded on line are very poor quality and most times the print is too small to read & if I enlarge them even slightly they become distorted. I see in many of your videos' you use clear , colored easy to read wiring diagrams. can you tell me where they come from
Hi, I had the same problem in my Chevy Silverado. I had no idea where the problem came from. After a large trouble shooting process, I hit the mark. The problem was the radio. I replaced the original radio for an cheap Autozone one, and the problem was fixed.
I hope this would help anybody experiencing the same problem.
Radio lucky you
9 years too late, open the IC and view the PCB with a thermal image viewer. You will immediately see what is dissipating 0.25A. Thermal image on PCB is a very common repair technique for laptop, phone, etc.
As soon as I saw the yellow writing on the backside of that cluster, it told me it’s either straight from a junkyard or a reman from the junk yard
Another excellent video. I think these sorts of involved problems tend to make the best videos. I was wondering if you had backprobed the the connection to the IPC at A2 to verify that you had a good source of 12V at that point? Also did you happen to look at B7 (Hot in Run) to verify that it was low? Since the IPC was dissipating about 3W I'm thinking that if you took it apart that it should be fairly easy to see which internal component was drawing the current and getting warm. It might be an easy fix. Another great video! Keep them coming.
Good suggestions Steve. I didn't back probe the key on power but I did go across every wire with a low amp probe and no other circuit was drawing. Kinda stinks it was still under warranty from an other shop so I won't see the fix, but you can bet the farm if I'm wrong she will be back :)
dorman makes reputal parts....when you see yellow on parts that is scrap yard....she is stickin to ya.....love your knowlge
I found the ignition switch can be turned to position 1 or accessory mode without the key in I guess due to age or wear on the switch. So one more item to check. Simple fix is to make sure the switch is really off after removing the key.
Eric in Michigan is getting a small orange light on the head lights switch.
Would you be able to leave the cluster unplugged overnight to see if the battery drains again?
I own an '05 Chevy Trailblazer with 117,000 miles. I've never seen this exact problem with the cluster. Only stepper motor issues and burned out bulbs.
Yeah I would say that is the norm...
Over half a mil subs, congrats.
The car is probably gone by now but what about a bad ground at the fuse box? Where you have the fuse buddy?
Nice Video - I think I'm having a draw on a 2009 canyon. I'm in Canada so need to find me a fusebuddy - looks like a great tool. I do have a small Seek Thermal Revel camera to isolate heat if it is a draw.