Chevrolet Truck - Battery Dies Overnight - Part I
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Well we have seen this more than once but we still need to test it right?. Let's have a look at this 2003 Chevrolet 1500 that has an ignition off draw (parasitic draw) Place your bets: Radio, Cluster, Alternator, PCM, or just a bad battery!?!?
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
Who needs TV when you have SMA? This stuff is entertaining, informative Sure beats "primetime TV"
+AbandonedSC Thanks Man
Discovery Channel needs to have a show at SMA.
It's like Mr. Rogers for older people. :)
Have been binge watching. Needs more Brake Cleaner!!!
I have a 2000 GMC Sierra with a 5.3 I'm having a problem with no power to the injectors on one side what could be the problem
I'm a retired mechanic with many years experience and this man is good - the best!
000000000
I am an aspiring mechanic and have established that electrical issues are pure witchcraft. My doors are dead, speakers are dead, battery dies, instrument cluster is dead. I'm dead.
Cap
Update: fuck silver migration haha. Now I've got an Escalade cluster in mine, so at least I got a tranny temp out of it.
@@DnRprodxIL he has a video on that
This is the first video of yours that I have seen. My 2003 yukon has the same key off draw. I have to compliment you on your teaching style and clarity.
I learned so much watching you. Well done.
What was it that you found? I also have a 2003 except it's a tahoe. Also at 201,000 miles on it and it's got a parasitic draw that's killing me. I've already done a new red top, alternator, checked fuses and relays and I've got my hands in the air. I've been a long time chevy builder and mechanic but I am now in the beginning of the 4th stage of c.t.e and my cerebellum is at 5.0 pushing through the back of my skull into my spinal canal and I'll be damned if it isn't screwing with me. Thanks for any help or advice on your end.
@@DirtyMuthaFugginD I've had two different problems. Solved them both. The first was the BCM (body control module) went bad and was saying the hatch was open. Since it thought it was open and it wasn't, it turned on all the interior lights and would drain the battery. I'm not going to try to replace that module so I simply pressed the button by the light switch that prevents the interior lights from coming on when you open the door. Problem solved. Then the other day the door dinger started going off as if you left the key in the ignition and opened the door even though I did take the key out. I read another guys comment that he had read several articles about it and that two different sources said to pull the "radio" fuse under the hood and put it back and pull it out a few times because of possible corrosion and their door chime stopped. I tried it and mine stopped too. Thank God for the comments section.
@@born_again_torinos thank you! I'm going to check all of these options. As soon as I figure it out I'll come back and share my adventure 😜 I appreciate you!
Having a Chevy with this very problem for the last 5 years I now know what to look for. Thanks Eric!
My 98 chevy trk has 2 fuses, one for radio memory and one for the radio.
The ever elusive intermittent fault, I spent several years overhauling electronic equipment at an Army depot and always hated these. Eyeballing the same issue on my 2004 Silverado, the cluster was repaired just before I got it but it began acting up again after about a year. Great video, it gave me some good insight on how to approach the problem.
I got an 04 2500 something similar going on.. 2nd battery not charging, but also thinking it could be the BCM. I hate all the electronics
Just to say thank you for highlighting the voltage drop across fuses. Helped to quickly diagnose the draw on my 2003 Chevy Suburban. For all those useful with a soldering iron its very easy to resolder every joint in the instrument cluster. I went from a range of faults including a ghost main beam light that would illuminate despite the car locked and definitely asleep to no faults. Easy to remove the cluster and pop the covers off the cluster.
Your videos make an ASE course in anything much easier. Thank you Mr. O!
You are thorough, systematic, and have a magnificent knowledge base of information. It's funny, because I've been working on cars for about 5 years now and I'm at the point where I can tackle most problems. All on youtube. It went from Chris fix, to ratchets and wrenches, to eric the car guy, and now to you. Because when I first started watching your videos, a lot of them were hard for me to understand,. It's almost like it was the intro class, then the intermediate one, then the more advanced one, then the final one which is your videos. Who needs school when you have youtube!
At first I thought this was way to long for an ICP fuse problem. But watched the whole thing and it was actually a very informative video. Thanks for the chart configuration info.
I googled these same symptoms for my 01 Suburban and this video was suggested. I'm going to go check out my cluster fuse tomorrow morning. Thanks for your videos.
I am amazed at the sensitivity of test gear these days. To measure the voltage drop across a fuse is truly remarkable. The one you measured, with 202ma and a drop of 1.5mV crunches to a resistance of .0074 ohms. There was a time you could only measure that with a laboratory meter. Waiting on part two.
Your suggestion of reading the millivolt drop across the fuse and converting it using Powerprobe's charts is fantastic. It's not only quick and easy, but also keeps from accidentally activating some system. THANK YOU Eric.
Found your channel while trying to solve a problem with my 2015 Chevy Pickup. You do a great job with these videos. My issue is that this truck, freshly out from under warranty of course, decided to keep the buttons and knobs and the LCD screen back-lights, and the On-star light powered up - and there was no way to get them to turn off. Of course it ran the battery flat over night. I charged the battery and began using your methods to diagnose the battery drain - except that I don't have access to a clamp-on and so I hooked a meter in series with the negative battery cable - it appeared that I had a 150 milliamp parasitic battery drain - at least I thought that I did. So I checked across every fuse in the engine compartment and both fuse blocks in the cab and found a 1.2 millivolt drop across the fuse for "Body Control Module 1". So, the reference you provided a link to showed that the equates to 163 milliamps. I was pretty excited that I found it but I had not noticed that the dome light were on and when they timed out the 1.2 millivolt drop disappeared.
Somewhere during all of this I apparently had the battery disconnected and/or the flat battery which caused the issue with the back lighting staying on issue to disappear. What followed on the initial restart of the Truck blew my mind but you will know all about this - the Truck told me to lower and raise the Driver's Side Window! I suppose to reset Body Control Module(s) - the manual says there are seven or eight of them and each one has its own fuse but I suspect there are all housed in the one unit located under the steering column area.
Then I discovered that the Tire Pressure Sensors were not being read and the manual said I had to initiate the "relearn" mode and then use the "Tool" by placing it next to each of the tires and sequential order! By this time I'm talking to myself and wondered aloud - "what tool and where is it".. LOL ... but once again you were right there with a way to relearn this thing without a the "Tool" or a trip into the tire store or the dealer. I suspect the original problem will return - things like this usually do. I going to have the battery tested - outside chance that it's getting weak and may the infamous "Integrated Body Control Module" doesn't like it. Once again.... thanks!
Eric, your videos always make my day. I look forward to episodes here as much as TV. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge with us.
+Justa Hondafan Amen Brother..... exactly.
+jewllake exactly
+Justa Hondafan I like watching these videos much more than any T.V. show.
Ditto...
I echo what others have posted... you're FAR BETTER THAN ANYTHING ON TV!!! Keep up the great videos!!!
Dude you pegged it ! Been having the same issue with my 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 1500. I did what you did and came up with the same issue with the cluster. Thank you for sharing the info for United Radio. I contacted them and the conversation I had with everybody on the phone with United Radio what's like I was talking to Old Buddies! Very pleasant people! They did say they wanted to contact you to thank you for spreading the word as I told them it was your video that help me with Diagnostics and referring everybody to them for repairs ! Thanks again
My Dad’s cluster stopped working several years ago and it was rebuilt. It has had this fantom draw issue now for over a year. Thanks for giving me a starting point.
Outstanding video! I was able to follow your logical leadings, and though my problem was the radio fuse and not the cluster, I simply bought a clamp meter for autos from amazon and this morning found the battery drain parasitic draw. Thanks a million for posting this.
Another nice job, Eric!
Getting up early and editing vids is a gift to all of us.
These clusters are pretty easy to fix. There are a few surface mount resistors that come unsoldered. Taking the cluster apart re soldering the bad ones and putting it back together takes 30-60 minutes. The bad resistors will brown the board a bit so they're easy to spot, but re solder them all.
Eric, your time and effort is much appreciated!
In my experience around 90% of the time it's the cluster is bad! if it isn't that current draw,it's at least one of the stepper motors going bad on them!
It's Awesome that you take the time to share your experiences with us. I have a quick story(I only heard about I don't know if it's true) that I'll share that may help others... Customer's car would go dead overnight every night, but only in the fall/winter months of course all of the usual things were done to no avail, finally after going to customers house to observe any abnormalities, they (allegedly) discovered that the customer would put a cover on his windshield,and he held it in place with some small bungee cords, he hooked the cords to the door handles which turned the illuminated entry lights on. I don't know if it's true, but it is a good story.
Always enjoy your straight forward diagnostics. Your name is always on top of the list when I tell other techs who to watch to try to better themselves. I had missed this one. Great work Eric.
I see a spot on the Discovery channel for you! I just found your vids while researching some issues for my car. Love em! And the bolts may not be rusty in the south but the heat and humidity will drive you crazy.
Robert Ellison Come to Michigan ,we add salt to the mix.
Tried this on a 04 Suburban. Pulled the Instrument panel fuse and in 2 Days dead Battery. Thanks and I enjoy your Videos.
been watching this fellow for couple of weeks. what you can do with diagnostic equipment. like his calming, educational manner of speaking. wish he was located around here. good mech's scarce as hen teeth. really enjoy your channel!
Your vid's are like an adventure. Fun to watch and learn for us backyard mech's. And like most people below me in comments I find it more interesting than T.V. I notice your sub number jumped from 39k to 41k real quick. Your doing something right ;)
Thanks man, yeah it goes through little sperts like that now and then
I’m having a hard time learning from this channel but I’m still gonna give you a thumbs up cause I’m sure u r full of knowledge
Silver migration! That phenomenon wasn’t an issue when I was repairing electronics products. Then again, lead free solder was just becoming common and not out there long enough to create corrosion type issues. Very interesting!
You are one sharp guy Eric. Your customers are fortunate to have you.
Well Eric I'm going to check my Silverado at the same fuze today just to double check. Fantastic tip Thanks.....
Nice job, Eric! The "voltage drop across the fuse" method is sweet. Very accurate according to the chart, plus it's faster than pulling fuses!
And that truck looks to be in nice shape for 200k miles...a real cream puff haha
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics 🖕🖕🖕🖕🖕🖕🖕🖕🖕🖕
And its in NY!! Very clean pick up.
Thanks for putting the mini fuse conversion chart up. Saved me the trouble. Can a blown fuse draw electricity? Had a blown 20amp mini drawing 1mV. Replaced it and went to zero. My battery was dying after a day or two. Gotta let it sit and see if this was the problem.
I've had poor luck doing parasitic draws with my inductive clamp. I prefer to use the internal amp meter on my vantage. Massive risk of blowing the fuse though! The vantage has a regular 10amp mini fuse though so it's cheap. My Fluke ones are £10 each! Nice video.
Toyota Tech Ain't that the truth.
This video is still very informative!!
I will try this very soon.
Thanks!
Clever. Measuring the voltage drop across a conductor (shunt) is how digital ammeters work
DC Amps. can be measured by pulling the fuse,then set your meter to amps(you have to move the leads on the meter also).don't keep in on for very long or you can overheat your meter etc. Those capacitors on the amp. meter dry out causing problems. second the new vehicles have to many modules(cars are on live support).
Eric U Rock :) These videos and United Radio saved my dying 2003 Tahoe...runs like a charm now...THANK YOU
I see a lot of familiar comments from loyal viewers who are enjoying your channel as much as I am. I really liked the amp draw across the fuse tip and look forward to the next part of this frustrating challenge.
Hi Wyatt , I'm heading out now to check mine and I have a feeling you are too. LOL
I don't get home from work until late Saturday but you can bet first thing Sunday I'll be checking that circuit! I don't have a parasitic draw issue (that I know of) but now I'm curious.
I'm going there right now, thanks.
have the vantage ultra with the inductive clamp. im an internal amp measuring guy for draws and my fluke 88 is always accurate. just be careful 10a will pop the fuse.
All you need to do is unhook the negative cable from the battery and plug a test light between the negative cable and the negative post. will should glow a little, if it's a bright light start unplugging fuses, when you pull the right fuse and the light goes out, you have found the problem circuit, that is causing the problem.
this is 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Another great video walks you through from start to finish diagnostics skills bar none the best I've ever seen. His style of video is and his banter is great. Can't believe only 69 thousand subscriber,
wow, over 200,000 miles and it still looks good
I appreciate all the time you put into making these videos.
i appreciate your virtue signalling
I have a 1998 1 ton chevy and the battery would go dead in 2 wks and then finely 2-3 days, found out with amp meter at fuse box that the problem was the memory of the radio causing a 2 amp draw. Replaced radio and no more problem. There is 2 fuses for this radio. I will watch to see what you fined.
I have a 04 suburban and had a battery drain that would kill the battery overnight. I narrowed the problem to the gauge cluster. Replaced the entire gauge cluster and problem fixed!!
That's the exact problem I have with my 03 Silverado. My instrument panel started not coming on also. I've been playing with that and it seems to have been a bad connection on the instrument panel plug. Great video ! Thanks for posting the help for everybody. :)
your going to jinx me now. my truck is an '03 Silverado. mine has almost 300 000kms on it now. I presently don't have this issue, but part of my cluster doesn't work anyway. its original as far as I know, haven't pulled it to check. but I am going to check that voltage drop. I do have a problem with the key switch, sometimes it stays on after the key is out, I can pull it out while its running. lights in the dash will stay on, or the radio stays on.
Love your methods and your persistence!Awesome stuff,keep up the good work!
Dude! You are good! We definitely owe you a few beers and should you make it to Idaho we are good for them! I hope you are employed as an instructor as you are excellent and I was an instructor for thirty years and know what I'm talking about! Best of luck!!!
You are one of the most thorough mechanics I have ever had the opportunity to watch work. I am very impressed with your knowledge and thoroughness. I use your videos to try to narrow down what could be happening to my "CHEVY" the infamous "CHEVY", you save alot of time and money. Thank You for your videos.
One question, where do you get your wiring diagrams from?
Thank You
Sean D from Sitka, Alaska
come on man!!!!!!!! I can't handle the suspense. You're such a tease.
Thank you. I will check this on my chevy. This is a very frustrating thing to deal with.
You nailed it for me . Thanks
That is the best diagnosis I have seen yet. I need to get one of those Snap On Vantage Pros!
GM should recall the instrument panels in their vehicles, my 2004 Chevy Tahoe required a new instrument panel at a cost of $600. Our 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD panel is shot as well.
I had a similar problem with my '06 Yukon XL. The battery would repeatedly go flat after several hours when parked. One morning after parking it, I happened to notice that the parking lights were on. I have the automatic headlight feature, and generally leave the switch in the AUTO position. I swapped out the underhood relay with that for the fog lamps, which are activated with a pushbutton having an indicator light. I normally leave the fog lamp switch off. The draw-down problem went away.
If it comes back the BCM is an issue I'm finding trying to fix my issue
I haven't finished watching the video but wanted to interject one thing for those watching. Not putting the amp clamp around the cable going to the starter could be a mistake on some vehicles. Some older vehicles specifically GM, have what's called fusible links that come off of the hot 12v post down on the starter, so if the power drain is coming from one of those fusible links you won't be measuring it with the amp clamp.
I don't need TV either. I have a Silverado that is running great. This was interesting to see in the event I have the same problem.
I did have to replace the instrument cluster on my 2004 Impala in 2006 for this same reason (under warranty).
22 mag. Perfect replacement for a blown glass fuse!
seen that before, 22LR usedd as a fuse on a shorted 20 amp circuit, (1970s mazda,farm truck), give you 1 guess what happened when the lights got turned on
lol the bell dinger drivin my puppy crazy
I'm gonna tell Vanessa when she gets back that you've been on the junk food again !!
+Tom OConnor not the bean and steak burritos form the gas station.
You need to tell her to get him a new job as he knows fuck-all about fixing electrics on cars.
Rick hctep he has 445,000 people who watch him along with professional technicians ..:so does that mean he doesn’t know what he’s doing you fucktard
I hope my draw is as easy to find. I just bought a salvage 1990 Olds 98 Regency with 100K and it is a creampuff except the harmonic balancer, ign module, coil pack and a nice battery drain in 1-2 days. Got everything fixed except now have to find draw.
Here's a special one for ya. A friend of mine has an 03 avalanche 2500 with the 8.1. That thing developed a 140-milliamp battery draw on it. I can't find it. I've pulled every fuse, relay, and almost every wiring connector and also disconnectd the BCM that truck has and the only change I saw was a 10 milliamp change from the radio. I also checked the power seat motors and no lights are staying on. I even disconnected the alternator and starter with no change. Everything on the truck works, and the instrument cluster was rebuilt last year. The weird thing is when you put a brand new battery in it, everything works fine for a week or two, then if it sits for a few days it's usually dead. After about 2 times of that it'll kill the battery to the point it won't take a charge or even a jump start from another running vehicle. Exchange battery for another new one and it fires right up. I've even pulled on the wiring harness throughout the truck and can't detect a change or find any bad wiring that's been rubbing on something causing a bare spot. The truck is very rust free and I didn't find any corrosion in any connectors either. Got any ideas on this POS?
Did you ever find your problem on the Avalanche? I have a '99 Chrysler Town and Country that was discharging and I couldn't find a problem even though I was reading a voltage drop. I cut the terminal ends off the positive and ground cables and put on new terminals, cleaned the battery posts exceptionally well, and now... no voltage drop. Odd indeed.
@@watchdogu.s.a.8973 It wound up having a bad alternator that was putting out a/c voltage and was frying batteries. A new alternator solved that problem but it still has a drain on it nobody can find.
@@MattsRageFitGarage Have you tried voltage drop tests and totally removing the fuse for the offending circuit for a couple days to see if it stops?
@@watchdogu.s.a.8973 Yep, did the voltage drop test twice. I even disconnected the starter solenoid and electric seat motors just to rule those out. Nothing has made any change.
Great video. My 03 had a similar problem. When ignition off the parking brake light was still faintly on all all the time and the gear position indicators don’t work. Pulled the fuse and light went off. Will be sending in for repair.
eh idk if its completely necessary to call a shop if u have this, i recommend doin exactly what u did, however all most ppl can do is pull fuses till the battery stops dyin then take it to somebody with the knowledge that u can lead them in the direction of the problem circuit
Only in America where a .22 magnum bullet is part of pocket change.
ToughAncientSpark I have had one of those since I was a kid, plain long rifles don't kill woodchucks over 75yrds very effectively.
Deja Vu, I have one in my change pocket as well.
Great Video Eric. I see you fixed that powerstroke. Nice job
I had parasitic draw on my 03 S-10, ZR/2. Turned out to be the Bose 6 disk changer. replaced the whole unit with Panasonic and now I have Bluetooth for my phone too. Was surprised to see that car stereos haven't gone up much for basic units.
Look at all those rock auto magnets, just like my fridge
Just did this and found out my drl fuse,day time running lamp fuse has a draw of 121 milliamps.
Hope that's my problem.
I saw this one already but I forgot the outcome so I am re-watching it.
check the door locks. Just turn the key to see if it locks because it acts like the security system is enabled. But they should have a drain stop on the battery even the old 1999 Buick had has a drain drain stop
Make sure you are turning the key all the way back until it clicks!!! That’s the issue on mines.. 😅 trust me the shift stick needs to lock along with the key so make sure you turn the key until it clicks or you see the shift stick move too
How much does one of these "clusters" usually run??
Can I just remove the fuse when I shut it off until I can get the "cluster" replaced??
Man that Instrument Cluster was easy to Remove but you seem to make many fixes easy...
For the number of these clusters I've seen go bad, I still can't believe that my folks' '02 Yukon, with 165,000+ miles, hasn't had any issues.
Hopefully this one is a nice, easy, straight-up fix!
Thanks for the tip Eric just made my work a lot easier
I ended up buying a cluster for my 03 Sierra. Got some money from GM. Evidently the class action suite made GM pay up for bad clusters.
ERIC THE ABS SYSTEM TALKS TO EVERYTHING AND SECURITY SYSTEM AS WELL TO ALL THE OTHER COMPONETS AND THE THING THAT GETS ME IS WHY THE ENGINEERS DESIGN THE SYSTEM TO STAY POWERD UP SO LONG BUT I LOVE YOJR VIDEOS YOU ARE VERY THOROUGH WITH YOUR DIAGNOSTICS AND YOU DO GOOD QUALITY WORK ALL THE TIME WISH ALL SHOPS HAD YOUR MORALS AND WAYS ..... GOD BLESS YOU ERIC
I get loads of those too. Car in for a battery drain issue, already has a shiny new Alternator...........
Too bad none of the shops near me can figure this out. Two different shops have taken my truck, sounding confident, then they give it back to me with their hands up.
I should update in case anybody is in the same situation.
The last shop was able to confirm I had a drain, but couldn't give me any clue where. They basically acted like replacing parts at random was the only way to track it down. I saw these videos from SMA while they had it, so I had a better idea of what to try. I was ready to just order a cluster refurb, but I did a voltmeter check first.
Lo and behold, my drain was coming from the radio fuses. There was a 15 and a 35 amp if I remember right, both drawing just a little bit. It was over a month ago so I don't remember exactly how much.
Yanked the fuses, and my truck has fired right up ever since. It's way past time I should have put an aftermarket radio in that thing anyway.
Huge thanks to Eric and South Main Auto. I went through two repair shops, weeks of trial and error, and hours worth of YT/internet research trying to figure this out. Eric's videos were extremely informative and ultimately led me to a solution. 'Scriber for life.
i can help you with that one, It's not true. Open the door on your vehicle and you will notice a small peg sticking out on the door jam near where your feet go, or near the pillar between the front of the cab and the rear seats/bed (depending on vehicle). That peg gets pushed in when the door is opened or closed and presses/depresses a switch that turns the lights on on or off. The only other way is with the key.
@@davidmiller9485 unless they short out thats not likely as they only stick depressed which keeps the lights off not on therefore wouldnt drain the battery. Also irrelevant to the op issue...
@@sprsprtrudy I'm referring to it shorting, it's a switch. if the switch gets shorted (I've seen this) it will drain the battery.
Better than the shops that replace some parts, say it's fixed, then you find the problem is exactly the same.
I bought a truck for my brother-in-law as he is one SSI and his truck was broke down and it would cost more to fix it then it was worth. We bought a used Chevy SUV that was in very good shape. It ran good, had good mileage etc. but the battery would die in a few days. I replaced it and check the alternator which was good. Could NOT find the problem so I took it to a garage I have known for many years. He said on the phone, "I have to remove the dash, Something is wrong in there and I can get to it" so I said OK,,,even though it would cost ME over $300 in labor. What he found was a GPS locator wired into the "Continuous Hot" circuit. I took it back to the dealer but they refused to reimburse me for the cost. It DID solve the problem though. Took the GPS locator to a friend in the local PD and he said it was a company car and the GPS was there to make sure the driver didn't use it for personal use. He did however say it should NOT have been wired the way it was though. Odd.
Nice video Eric. Great tip on the Voltage drop charts! :)
Some car batteries have been going flat over night for more than 100 years, so it's interesting to note that things haven't changed in that regard. And with the modern obsession for more and even more electronic devices aboard, there are probably more drained batteries than ever. Progress?
Typical truck batt is roughly 75,000 mAH. A 200 mA draw means his battery would be dead after 15 days. I conclude the customer needs to work more.
Even after 7 days where it has 40 Ah remaining it would however not start.
Man I literally had the exact same problem on the exact same truck and did the draw test and found the ipc to be the issue as well. That was days ago and then I saw this video. Couldn't help but laugh lol
Change the float in the tank short not causing the gas gauge to short out causing a draw
Tahoe issue
My mom has a Journey and the battery died, she had a new one put in and it died again. It sat in the shop for weeks and they couldn't figure it out. They even sent the computer to PA so they could look it over and it came back with no issues. In the end the reason was because the Journey has a built in garage opener on the sun visor. She put one of those eagle vision visor add on things on it and the clamps that hold it on the visor were pressing the garage opener button draining the power. Lol
rickr799 oh man ! That’s called chasing a ghost. Lol. Been there done that. It’s fun when ya find it but sucks when your looking. 👍
He amazing he know what he doing
You were about to say "we'll get this cluster out and do some drop tests" xD
You know when you're performing that test with pulling out the fuses? Leave the fuses you pull out unplugged, that way you don't have to wait one hour again for everything to go back to sleep. It will save you some time. Just keep pulling them out one by one. Take a picture before I guess. But that's not really necessary imo since it says on the lid what fuses go where. Hope it helps.
is this an easy fix ???? make the constant live into a switch live , therefore removing the parasitic draw ?? So what you cant see the mileage with key off...just a thought ///
placing my bets: a/c clutch coil relay stuck.
It's interesting that a battery with about 50 amp hours of capacity can discharge beyond starting the engine after 2 days at 200 ma load or about 10 amp hours. I believe it's related to how starting batteries are engineered for high current and not constant loads.
50? You mean 500ah
odometer works while you have retained accesory power. Rap module times out and then you cannot check mileage
Ivs got one that when ignition is off im getting random 7-10v through the control circuit for the ac compressor clutch.
Would still like you to do a video showing and explaining what diagnostic gear you use for specific issues.
I've watched alot of your videos on electrical issues I was wondering if you ever came across the trailblazer with a draw what the bad thing is the problem doesn't show up right away it generally takes 3-5 days before it kills the battery I've disconnect the fan the 2 black relays / module's in the under hood fuse block I'm at a total lose I'd be grateful for any advice that would possibly send me in the right direction thank you
wow !! a 1.5 mvdc drains abattery after a coupe days ? good to know ! Thx for the great vids Eric. Love the way you tested a draw with the voltmeter.Great info.Thx.Cheers from Canada !
1.5 mvdc is the voltage drop showing across the FUSE due to the 200 milliamp draw. No ?
yes..according to the chart he had..1.5 milliVoltDC equals about 200 milliamp( draw in this case)on a 10 amp fuse(size of filament)
Get a FLIR thermal camera- anything that draws current gets hot, so put the charger on overnight, then in the morning look it over with the thermal cam. The charger keeps it alive overnight.