54 Hours Burning Waste Oil - Teardown Inspection & Discovery
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- čas přidán 17. 02. 2024
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s.vevor.com/bfQOVD 5kw
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Actual Description: 54 hours into my test on waste motor oil... My goal was 40 hours, my expectations were 30, so 54 is a pretty big achievement. The heater was still running, and as some of you may clue in to, my heater now had two access points where it can be cleaned from, without disassembly. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
He puts the cat up there when it's bad. That's the time-out spot.
Haha... basically.
@@loweredexpectations4927 A bunch of angry PETA women may already trying to find you.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Oh, i left a remark about angry peta women on their way to you and it is gone.
Test - This one still there?
😁
I'm glad you told us the reason for this excessive amount of ferrous material 😄
I finally can kick that riddle out of my head 🤣
Haha... yes, it did seem like an awful lot. I'm surprised it hasn't ruined my pump.
So, the lesson here is to run all used fuel thru a magnetic field before using. Also consider trying kerosine or Stoddard solvent (whichever is cheaper) to blend and thin used oil. Stoddard solvent is what we used to clean parts with but currently is mostly used as BBQ fire starter.
If you have really greasy parts to clean, the Stoddard is still the best & easier to use than the currently (eco-green) available products.
Yeah... I had been using a magnet and just forgot to use it for my latest testing... Meaning I had about 2 months of junk sitting at the fuel outlet, just waiting to get out.
Fortunately, I do have an 80 micron filter, so no big chunks were getting through... My pump seems to be okay, quite surprisingly.
I will try diluting my oil in the future, but, but for now I want to see what can be done running it straight. I did a bunch of testing last year with all different sorts of mixes. Not kerosene or Stoddard solvent though. Gas, diesel, methanol, varsol and a few other things.
🤙 EVERYBODY, HIT THAT THUMB'S UP!
Dang... I had forgotten ! Thanks for the reminder, haha.
Another CZcams diesel heater hero David McLuckie said he will give up on experimenting with oil and he subscribed your channel to follow your work . 😎So you are top oil diesel heater magician 🎩 👍
Haha... I saw that. Sad that he has given up for now... I understand though. He is the diesel heater king.
@@loweredexpectations4927 You've basically nailed it now. 😁
@@DavidMcLuckie Your sarcasm is subtle and appreciated 😉
@@loweredexpectations4927 I meant no sarcasm. Now I know that it needs a removable insert, I can think about how to make it work for my setup.
@@DavidMcLuckie Okay... great, haha. I think it is a pretty good success as there was almost no carbon, and the ash is getting more manageable, considering this was 54 hours (6 litres) of the nastiest oil on earth.
I have a CAD design of a self cleaning contraption, but I don't want to lean on a cleaning system and accept a lot of crud. Now that it is running relatively clean, even with a manual cleaning system, if it were cleaned every 10 hours, it should be manageable.
I'm going to test ATF and then move on to some more modifications.
40 percent ultrafiltered used engine oil, veggie oil , other burnable liquids / 50 percent virgin heating oil, parrafin, diesel (not preferred), kerosene / 10% ethanol free petrol... has given me perfect results in heaters rotated out of service annually ( inspected and the rare repair before cycled back into service) NO buildup, no temperature fluctuations. Intake air from inside, currently the exhaust (always angled or straight down) has a fan on it for 2 meter before exiting the building. Exhaust is never above room temp, except on high.
Thanks for the info.
Good stuff, the primary burn chamber looked really clean. Positive results for sure.
I think a few small mods would go a long way to making this better, but I want to try ATF with this same setup first, to see what happens.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks for the tip where to find heater parts (last vid) AlieEx has hard to find e-bike stuff too... The burn chambers starting at 10$!?!? They have kit w glowplug/gaskets for 17$!. I'm thinking I'll filter/thin out the waste oil and run it till it quits, R&R the burn chamber and throw away the coked one.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Usually all mineral waste oil goes in one tank. So, a normal garage will always have a mixture only.
My persolal guess is on less ash with pure old ATF, but maybe not - don't know the additives and there is a lot of wear in automatic transmissions too.
@@werner.x I saved mine from my truck last summer, but yes, it could be difficult to source just atf unless you work at a garage and collect it yourself.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I usually put a cup or 2 of atf in the tractor tank when I fill it up. Old tractor likes it.
Just thinking to get rid of clump of the metal oxides (presumably) without disassembly you may be able to pump citric acid solution or distilled/concentrated vinegar (acetic acid) into the chamber, leave it for a hour, it should break the clump into granules which should blow out of the exhaust. And the organic acid will decompose with heat becoming CO2/water. Alternatively if you could drill and tap a 12?mm inspection hole with grub screw/ cap which you could ram a rod in to break it up?
That's interesting ... In this case, the metal oxides could actually help in the cleaning action... I like the idea of using something to break it up, and have been planning this for some time.
The plan is to make something that works for quite some time, and doesn't make a lot of carbon, just ash, and then perhaps the can be removed on a daily basis without disassembly.
From my previous experiments, I can say that the amount of build up in this 54 hour test were less than I had in previous 13 hour tests. I still want to make several improvements to increase burn quality.
Citric acid and a pinch of salt should be able to clean out that ash and rust without doing any harm to the stainless.
You want it boiling hot if you don't want it to sit for days or at least 40°C
It is also used to passivate stainless from rust contamination to extend the lifetime of the stainless steel.
Maybe also add a very strong neodymium magnet innside the fuel container and a string or something to it so you can remove it for cleaning (while writing this you started speaking of that😅)
Thanks for the tips ! I don't find it very hard to clean out as is, especially compared to the battles that I raged with it last year...
Does bassivating it help when heating it, or is that just for extra chemical protection ?
Haha... yes... a magnet inside of the container would be a better idea... that would my sludge wouldn't just continue to build up.
@@loweredexpectations4927 passivating is to remove all ferrous iron on the surface that may lead to pitting in the stainless.
Stainless doesn't rust unless contaminated then it can start to rust like the tesla cyber truck (likely surface contamination rusting on it)
But the high heat will nevertheless lightly damage stainless and give it that rusty look, hard to be without, but you can't really harm it with acid that isn't lower ph than 0 or 1, citric is around 2.5
When certified welders weld on stainless they must passivate the welded and heat affected zone around it either with acid or a DC voltage passivating brush (electro etch) otherwise it will rust around there and is an instant fail for any inspection
I sure wish they would have started out using BTU as the measurement vs KW.
I used to understand BTU more than kw... but now KW is all I hear, haha.
Excited to see transmission fluid in next video
Yeah, me too ! I have been told that it burns much easier and that it makes a lot of heat. We will see what sort of ash situation there is.
It’s much cleaner because it’s usually synthetic and free of metal particles.
People that are suggesting si
using a centrifuge sure love spending your money or haven't priced them lately lol,we were studying doing the biodiesel thing and using used oil from big trucks and man it should be illegal for what they demand for them ❤your educational content as always and plan on sending you some more Benjamin's as soon as I finish setting up for reloading 50bmg, prices are Rediculesness lately and take care buddy
Haha... yes. Purchasing a centrifuge is one of the major hurdles in using a centrifuge, and they do cost money, haha. I could see myself making one at some point, but I currently have too much on the go already.
I'm surprised YT allowed you to ever write "50mbg" and not delete your comment... Clearly that could hurt someones feelings and is very dangerous speech that must be stopped. 🤣
@loweredexpectations4927 50bmg is just part of our vocabulary in Kentucky, 90% want one and 10% have one BAHAHAHA
@@Truckinup266 Haha, yeah. What 50 do you have ?
@loweredexpectations4927 I purchased the "Raptor 50" it's just a single shot but the cool thing about it is an AR15 upper and when you buy it it comes with a massive hammer and a heavy hammer spring and you pull out the hammer pin and swap them out and reinstall it then remove the buffer and spring from the tube so the bolt action has a place to slide to the rear and push in the 2 take down pins and your anti material weapon is affective range is 1800 meters or a mile and a quarter....it goes through everything I have shot with it except for AR500 steel and it warped it
@@Truckinup266 Cool... just went and watched a video on it. Seems like a pretty light rifle to be tossing out 50 bmg, haha... must have pretty sharp recoil. Pretty awesome !
I see so many people trying to burn waste oil in these heaters just to find it does not work long term without plugging the burn chamber up.
Heating water may be a good idea if you can run it thru a small radiator and use a fan to distribute the heat off of it.
Yeah, I've been pretty clear about my expectations. As is going to form, and what I am trying to do is provide a place for it to form, so that it allows the heater to run longer between servicing.... and also make it easy to clean, compared to a normal burn chamber.
I have cleaned a "normal" burn chamber hundreds of times, and that is no fun. This test was also relatively not messy to clean out. Not only does it normally form a hard black coke / carbon that is hard to clean, but it is also VERY messy.
@@loweredexpectations4927 It's still far too much disassembly to do.
Everything should be able to stay in place - one cap removed, a bit of scratching, scooping out the loosened ash, screw the cap back on, start the heater - that would be a practical solution.
I hope, you'll get there.
@@werner.x I agree that this is still too much disassembly for the average person. What is promising is how easily the ash breaks away and falls apart. This indicates that it may be practical to be cleaned daily with an internal device, or an automated device on a timer.
I was thinking, after the debris is broken free, you could plug off the air inlet with a drain plug or something similar, then blow compressed air into the fuel line inlet, and the crud would be blown out the exhaust.
@@loweredexpectations4927 This would clog my heat exchanger setup.
The ash will never make it to the outlet - the exhaust is wet.
If one does not want to harvest the exhaust heat, the ash cloud may still upset neighbours. Problem is, the evidence for pollution lies there for everyone to see, too.
Ash has to be trapped early, where the exhaust is still hot and therefore always dry.
The ash trap needs a sealed door with some springy quick release, like an old style air filter housing.
@@werner.x Oh, yes... this would not be good to put in your heat exchanger.
I have been told by a few people that they use vacuum cleaner on the exhaust while blowing air in the inlet, when their heater gets sooted up, while just running diesel.
It sounds like your the solution could be to cut the end of the exchanger off and make a new end cap. The issue is that it needs to be sealed to stop fumes from escaping. A possible solution could be to cut the end off and clean up the exchanger bore and thread it, then have an end cap that threads in.
I was thinking piston rings or an o-ring... but piston rings can leak and even high temp o-rings are only good till about 230C
Progress for sure keep the videos coming 👍
Learning as we go. I have a bunch of new ides that I want to try now, and it's really hard to focus on sensible tasks, haha.
Make sure the exhaust inlet is above the outlet and it has a place for the condensate to drain.
Thanks.
I fought with this all day ... after putting ultra gray sealant on the joints last evening, 16 hours later it was still wet ... I ended up cleaning it off and using a different method.
Not a good idea to work on things when you are frustrated ... I honestly just want to get on to testing ATF and other waste oil stiff.... but people get sick of too many of those in a row... so I have to do something else.
@loweredexpectations4927 is it leaking water in, or is it filling up with condensate? Really easy to mix the two up. That's why I suggested a downhill path through the water tank.
@@zacharymorris9917 Yeah... I started filling it with water and it started leaking before turning the heater on. One of the pipes actually had pin holes in it... so it took me quite a while to figure out that it wasn't just my joints.
I tested it last evening and had some condensate issues ... by the time I got the pipes in and not leaking, I was frustrated and didn't' pay enough attention to having a steady down flow.... It worked pretty well for several hours. Not sure if I will redo it or not..
I have seen a video on CZcams about speeding the fan up. Apparently if you take just the ground wire from the fan and run it back to the battery you can give it with the full 12v with no errors.this will give you more rpm if you are needing more air for a better burn. If you add a switch to this you can turn it on when the heater is up to temp
That's interesting... I wonder if this bypasses the ECU and feeds it 12V... because that will spin the fan at hyper speed.
The ECU that I am using from the MaxPeedinRods 8kw heater, already spins the fan very fast ... I'm not sure that I want to spin it any faster.
czcams.com/video/tlT3qb-WfCY/video.htmlfeature=shared. This guy shows it in action with an exploded view of the real heater
It won't let me share the link. But search CZcams for. "Diesel heater Turbo boost option + screen you really see ?" If you have time. He shows in use with an exploded view of a real heater and another video he has a dual glow plug set up shown in theory
@@Coffeebean1482 Oh... yeah ! I just started following that guy the other day... haven't had time to get into all of his videos yet. I can't imagine the fan would last very long at that speed, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 yeah would be good if you could squeeze a little extra out of it like 10v and not the full 12 so you get a few hundred rpm more
Interesting findings. I'm curious to see how you will add more air. 🔥
Aside from changing the fan speed and or add-on modifications, have you ever thought of restricting the inlet diameter of the burn tube, or can the same thing be accomplished with volume of air supplied? 🔥
From what I watched, the debris collects on the exit side of the burn chamber / drip spot.🔥
A spiral vortex exit burner tube 🤔 or entire burn tube and chamber made of a high temp non stick material ? 🔥
15:16 Other than engine ware metals, Zinc interacts with magnets. Synthetic oils can contain Zinc.🔥
19:14 You run inline fuel filters? Pump affected? 🔥
Would be interesting to see if you can magnetically pull metal particles from new synthetic oil. 🔥
Another 👍🏼video 🔥
I just wrote out a giant response and then accidentally hit "cancel" when trying to scroll...🤬
When I said more air, I didn't necessarily mean more air flow or volume, just allowing / forcing more of existing air to mix with the hot oil vapours, instead of everything just getting blown out of the burn tube. I kinda talked about this a few videos back when I said something about almost giving up.
I think there is almost enough air, but it is not mixing with the fuel and burning in the tube... it is pushing the unburnt fuel out instead, and this is due to the design (lack of design). To tackle this I will likely harvest a burn chamber and install it into another chamber, like I currently have, but maintain more of the original design.
The next thing I can do is take advantage of my air pump... currently the metal fuel line is about 1.5mm, and I can open it up to 3 or 4. Currently it is 1.5 and then opens up to 3 where it goes into the chamber.
I plan on actually putting some thought into the fuel pipe next time, and trying to aim it in a way that it causes some vortex... partly to help mix the vaporized fuel with the air, but also to disperse the fuel so that the ash is less likely to gather in one spot.
Zinc will interact with a magnet, but is not magnetic. I believe things that can be picked up with a magnet have iron in them, and nonferrous metals interact because of lens law.
I don't know how my pump is still running... it laughs at me like "is that all you got?"... while other people fart in the same room as their pumps and they fail.
That is an interesting idea. Pulling metals out of oil... I'm guessing you could do this with a spinning magnet or magnetic field applying lens law for the non ferrous metals... I'm sure someone smarter that me can do it, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Dude,,,, I hate when I mistakenly erase / delete long texts. I'm so sorry that happened 😕 I was looking on your channel for an email address for you because I ( purposely ) erased a lot of what I had written down for the sake of keeping it short. I'd like to have passed on a few ideas floating around in my head regarding what you brushed upon in your reply. Hope you get your new heater this week 👍🏼
@@DanDan-yy8sf It has been warming up here this week, and they are calling for more warm weather... Not at all ideal for a channel that focuses mostly on diesel heater content.
I'm not hoping that it gets cold again, haha, but it does help with the video views ! haha.
Another great video Joel thank you.
Thanks for your comment !
Story time with Joel..🤣 it turned out to be a story n half.... with the magnetic additive lol.
Love the experiments , looking forward to the ATF burn , personally I think the clean burn is about viscosity of the fuel , be it a mix of old oil and a fuel oil ... thanks for sharing Joel..
Haha... For me, that was a pretty short story... at least I basically stayed on topic... sometimes I go totally off road and get lost for a while, before eventually coming back to the point.
I do plan on doing some testing with mixes of gas, diesel and other solvents, btu not sure when I will get around to those.
I’m leaning toward the a/f ratio being what makes it burn clean and staying within a temp range that keeps the CO down and also also hey Mr Joel have you tested for NOX in the exhaust? I don’t remember. In cars they use catalytic converters to convert CO to CO2 and NOX to N2 and O2. So I’m curious to how much NOX it’s emitting when it shows no CO on your meter.
@@jamesmiller8299 I'm no chemist, so what you are saying could be spot on, but I think there is a lot to it. It needs to be hot enough for the a/f to matter, otherwise, no reaction. Once it reaches higher temperatures, more ... stuff is able to react with the oxygen and so different compounds will be formed.
I don't have any way to test for NOX currently. From what I understand (very little) NOX happens when there is a lean burn at high temperatures ... am I even close ? There could be NOX when I run the oil lean, but I think when I do, the temp also drops substantially, but what I'm seeing could just be a result of less total heat energy and not less heat.
Maybe the magnetic is from the used oil from another engine part it was in
That is possible.
Have we tried to burn regular clean oil to compare it to build up from waste. If uts n8ght and day a centrifuge might clean it right up.
I would love to have a centrifuge... clean oil is better for sure... That being said, yes, I have tried new oil. I will leave a link to the video. It was not a night and day difference.
czcams.com/video/i60-rwU9rUk/video.html
👍
Thanks !
I like your videos so much, even the mistakes teach us things. Thanks man.. also GARAAAAGE😂🤣🤟🏻👑
Thanks for your comment and support. I could always edit out the mistakes, or try to make myself look better.... but I see very little use in that.
Garaaaage !
How about putting the magnet, maybe with a string or wire for easy removal,inside the fuel tank so it can be taken out and monitored and cleaned?
That is a much better idea... I can use a smaller magnet and dangle it from the fuel cap or something...
@@loweredexpectations4927 if you do, put the magnet in a rubber or latex glove, or even a bag to make it easy to pull the stuff off, you can just pull the glove off the magnet, and all the filings or whatever will stick to that instead of getting the magnet all messy
@@kidsalex13 Yeah... I was thinking a little bag, but a glove is easier.
It's not from the oil, it's from your chamber, disintegrating from the high heat changing the composition of the metal.
I thought that might be the case... and I think that is where some if it is coming from... However, I have tried to dissolve clumps of ash in acid, last year, and it didn't appear to have any effect. No bubbles of gassing.
This chamber does seem to be of a lower quality, so perhaps more oxides.
Unlikely.. that kind of corrosion would dissolve through the thin walls in very short order. Even high sulfure oils and home heating oil (produces sulfuric acid) isn't that brutal.
Just a heads up. Many have found the exhaust pipes often leak. Poor quality seems.
Haha... I wish you would have told me this a day ago... haha. Grrrrr .
great video! i got my heater and i had to open it up! lol. i notice there is no fuel filter, should i add one? or just leave it. ( do you have a link for a recommended filter ), Thanks
I always like to open things up and have a look 👍
While these are not terribly fussy about filtered fuel, I do think that it is a good idea and use filters on all of my heaters.
If you search for "diesel heater fuel filter" on amazon, there will be lots of options. You can get a filter and fuel line kit for about $15 and then you have some spare.
Some of the magnetic metal is likey from mesh. It may have been stainless but being in a carbon rich area while it was red hot probably converted it to more magnetic metal.
Yeah.. it could be from the mesh and the chamber... altho, the mess that I found in the tank indicates that most of it was likely from the fuel.
@loweredexpectations4927 it definitely could have got it from the oil as well. If you weren't aware I have found a very fine screen located in the pump. If you remove the barb side of pump with a nut it is pushed down into the pump. I was able to remove mine with a hooked pic. May be worth checking it since you have run so much crud through it.
@@johncollinsgrove1750 I don't think any of the pumps I have are serviceable.
Interesting as usual! One of the channels showing a pretty clean burn chamber after a claimed 3 years of use was burning hydraulic oil, so maybe the transmission oil will burn cleaner? Hydraulic oil makes a pretty good cleaning solvent, as-in it loosens up oil gunk, so maybe it cleaned out the crud as it burned?
Yeah, I have heard good things about ATF and hydraulic oil. Apparently some hydraulic oils have flame retarders to stop them from burning. I don't know if this releases inert gasses when heated, or it if is just something to increase the flash point.
I think the ultimate determining factor in if a fuel will leave ash behind, is if it is removed in the refining process. The compounds that create ash are removed during the manufacturing process.
Low ash engine oils are being introduced to help with emissions, and other lubricants may be low ash, so that the service life is longer and the fluid causes less wear as it ages... I don't know all the details tho.
@@loweredexpectations4927 It looks like the predominate type uses "phosphoric ester". If that works anything like fireproof plastics which use phosphorous, it produces suppressant gasses. Ironic that phosphorous is put to use in flame retardants. I didn't know hydraulic fluid was based on mineral oil, though I guess that's a pretty generic term.
@@WaffleStaffel It's almost like the folks making this stuff are smart or something, lol.
Lets hope the metal particles were not catalyzer :D
We will have to purposely add them in the future, haha.
twas curious about that potential too.
I think it is time to move onto the propane tank design. This buildup will always be a problem. To much trouble to clean.
I always knew that ash was going to be there. This test was to collect data, for the next step in the process.
My end goal is to make a self cleaning system, or at least at device that manually cleans the chamber once a day without taking it apart.
In order for this to actually work, you need to have a burn that is leaving behind ash, and not carbon, and that is what we saw in this test.
I was hoping to get to my propane tank heater soon, but I have been pretty busy with other things.
Could you not tap in a hole for a vopper tube to fire compressed air or a solvent to clean the burn chamber of ash every day or two?? @loweredexpectations4927
I dunno where the metal is coming from, but I wonder if its acting like a "glue" thats holding the ash together.
Also is the ash from burnt additives in oil? Like the detergents that the manufactures add and the like.
Probably a "captain obvious" moment, but curious.
The metal in the oil killed the last pump?
Yeah... it could be creating nucleation sites... like how raindrops form on particles in the air, and it could also help to bind stuff together.
Some of the ash could be from additives. Some of them are probably consumed, others turned into other compounds. I'm not a chemist, so I'm not sure.
Quite surprisingly, my pump still seems to be okay... it is still the original pump for my first heater... I do run a 80 micron filter, so there are no big chunks of stuff getting through.
#approved
😂
🤟🤣
Is it filling from your lawn equipment oil
Yes, this is all used oil from lawn equipment.
42.85% used oil and 57.15% diesel according to my math skills.
Yeah.... them is some good skills. I didn't track the info that accurately, so your math is more accurate than my data, haha.
I commented before I finished watching so I assume your calculation is more accurate. My new vevor 8K(likely 4K)is sooting but still running so I will have to take it apart after winter or when it stops. Planning on running a mix of gasoline and used oil to see how it works. Magnet might be a great idea. Where is the best place to get gaskets and ignitors for these? Thanks
@@loweredexpectations4927
Prior to converting the heater you are combusting the diesel/wmo combo in... how many liters of diesel per hour was it consuming ? Was heat out put similar between its previous just diesel life..... and when it was used with both fuels at once? Am curious the comparisons.
It would consume .347 l/h.
The amount of diesel is approximately .148 l/h when also burning oil.
I calculate, in it's current configuration, it is (very) approximately .260 l/h for total fuel (diesel and oil)
It seems to make about the same amount of heat even though it is burning less total fuel this way.
I have a couple diesel heaters, 1 heats my camper I live in and the other is for heating my ice fishing tent. I am curious if I'd be able to run the heaters on DEF (Diesel Exhaust Fluid)? I've seen alot of your videos and thought you'd be the perfect person to ask. Is there any way you could do a video on this subject?
From what I understand, DEF won't do anything for a diesel heater, for a few reasons. But I could be totally wrong.
First off is that DEF is to convert NOx into nitrogen and water. I'm not even sure that diesel heaters produce NOx, as the combustion process is quite different... altho, it probably does.
If they do make NOx, and it were to be effective at reducing it, it would have to be injected into the exhaust gasses as a mist, from what I understand.
The problem with doing a video on this is that I would need a NOx detector (exhaust gas analyzer) and from what I have seen, the cheap ones are $1200 compared to my $60 TVOC and CO meters, haha.
NOx doesn't produce ash or soot, so the only way to determine if it is there, and if you have improved it with DEF, is to use an analyzer.
Isn’t DEF essentially urea/ammonia, mixed with water? Neither of which are really very flammable.
@@markcoyle8003 Yeah... the idea isn't that it burns... it is just there to react with NOx and make something less nasty.
How does the cat get up there 🤣
He asks for me to put him up... just sits and stares at the hatch, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 got you trained well!
@@loweredexpectations4927 Do you have mice there?
In my current garage, there are some - they feast on the oak tree fruits between roof and insulation.
@@werner.x We have some in our yard, under our deck.... Quasar takes care of them.
can your hole be drilled out to 1/4 bsp and a sight glass fitted.
The hole in the end of the exchanger ? I have considered this. I'm not sure what sort of sight glass would stand up to that sort of heat. It is in the direct blast of the flame. It also gets covered in soot fairly quickly.
I did find some sashire and pyrex sight glasses, but they were hundreds of dollars.
mine was £5 off Amazon and works well. tends to keep clear and just takes a minute to clean if required after "testing"@@loweredexpectations4927
@@loweredexpectations4927 A glass doesn't make much sense there. But a real large plug for easy cleanout will do.
@@werner.x It would be nice to see what the burn looks like. If nothing else, then just for amusement. the aluminum is quite thin except for the centre section. I'm not sure how well a large plug would seal.
Ops u already said it at end of video
Haha... Yeah. You had it figured out before I did.
Oil entered from side based on how you had the heater sitting while running, correct? where did the collection of ash sit based on orientation of the oil feed tube? directly across from it??
The majority of the ash built up on the same side as the oil feed, and across the bottom. More air flow, or a slight restriction in the oil nozzle could help distribute this more evenly.
I want to test with ATF in this configuration, and then try some more mods.
@@loweredexpectations4927 was thinking about years of discussion on oil burners and how the babyington spread out the oil into a finer layer on its bulb surface.... makes me wonder that if you did oil from above from just right size tube to where all the oil ends up clinging to walls of tube as it made its way down.. That way it comes out of the tube like a hollow cylinder made of thin walled oil. Thin walls should aid atomizing is the thought. or maybe a tear drop shape that hangs just below the tube that oil drips onto and spreads out. similar to balls inside Indirect Injection swirl chambers on old diesel engines?
czcams.com/video/8uTuk1RZRjk/video.html
granted in above case the ball was more to smash the diesel against to create even finer microdroplets.. unlike babington that just dispersed a drop of oil into a thinner sheet before it reached the air hole.. hmm... then again you have air now??
czcams.com/video/VvK6_UUO1-I/video.html
@@coachgeo Atomization is a great idea, and that is what I am trying to do with my secondary chamber in this design.
Oil that clings to the walls of the chamber builds ash on the walls. At first, this works really well, then the ash forms a protective barrier to the heat and also become a sponge for the income fuel. This causes the ash ti build up in one area.
I think the idea of spreading the fuel out is a good idea and the reason I am using air is that it disperses the fuel, and therefore the ash, away from the fuel entrance point. I believe a better fuel feed design will make things better.
The air flow that I have is quite low pressure, but I think with the right design, it has the potential to work well. My hope is to disperse the fuel to assist in the burn and also spread the ash out over a larger area. The next step will be to create a cleaning system for cleaning the heater without disassembly.... but I don't want to accept a poor design in favor of easy cleaning.
Had a thought. If you could extend the fan driveshaft about 5 inches and run it into the burn chamber (threaded), you could have the oil input go directly onto it, and have some small flat-ish/ribbed oil atomizer screwed on the end. Would require access through the end where you tapped the hole. That would pretty much atomize the oil, and possibly even make the buildup go away.
@@markcoyle8003 That's an interesting idea. I'm not really sure what you mean about the flat atomizer on the end. I'm guessing like a washer / disc. This could be effective, I'm not sure.
I suspect that the ash would either gather on the disc or where it flung out onto the chamber walls, but it could make it airborne and assist with atomization. It would be neat to try.
Hi Joel, me again :) I'm burning 4.5Ĺ of diesel in about 6hrs on high 5.5hz do that seem like a lot ? Thx for your time.
That does seem like an awful lot ... unless you have a giant pump.
Generally they run a 22 ml pump (22ml/ 1000 pulses) If you do the math on it, that is .022 x 5.5 = .121 ml per second x 60 = 7.26 per minute x 60 = 435.6 ml per hour. If your ran for 4.5 hours, that is 436 x 6 = 2616 ml or 2.6L
Based on these numbers you are consuming 750 ml per hour. I'm not sure how your heater is still running if it is consuming that much fuel. This would indicate that your pump is a 38 ml pump and not a 22 ml.
Ok thx buddy, I'll check my pump and see how many ml it is. I'll put 1L in my tank and see how long it runs for. Thx for your time and reply.
The pump has 12-22 on it. Would it be ok to run the heater without the rubber gasket thats on the bottom of the heater ? Thx.
@@kevinfarrell6948 12-22 should be 12V 22ml ... so either it is stamped wrong, or something else really strange is happening.
As for the rubber seal. That is there to stop hot air from escaping out the bottom of the case, and to stop crud from getting in your vehicle if you have it mounted in that way. I have heard people say that you need the seal to stop exhaust gasses from entering unto the plastic housing (and getting fed into your living space) but there is always positive pressure in that area.
Ok thx for your reply.
What do you think? 1 quart of filtered motor oil to 1 gallon diesel?
In my heater or a unmodified heater ?
This is basically 25% oil. I have tried this, as have many others, and the results are always the same. Oil has ash in it, and regardless of how clean it burns, or what it is mixed with, you will be left with the same amount of ash.
Waste oil isn't all the same, but for argument sake, 1.6 gallons of oil will have 30 ish grams of ash. If you mix it with diesel, after you burn 1.6 gallons of oil you will be left with 30 grams of ash.
If you dilute it in diesel at 25%, then you will burn 6.4 gallons of total fuel mix, before collecting 30 grams of ash... because you will have burnt 1.6 gallons of oil.
I hope this makes sense, haha.
In a "normal" heater, the primary burn area does not get hot enough to flash off the oil, so instead of ash, you get a LOT of coke / carbon that builds up like black concrete.
@@loweredexpectations4927 it does make sense. Thanks for taking the time to explain it. Love your videos, I'll stick with straight diesel until you find a magical solution. Keep at it!
@@Shakey31 I have been testing ATF the past few days, and it seems to work a lot better... but I haven't finished the test yet... so don't' run out and try it, haha.
Could you burn mineral oil
I have not tried it, but I have been told, and suspect that it would burn perfectly fine without any modifications at all.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I don't understand?
We generally use mineral oil - synthesized or not, motor oil is dino based, not plant based. Maybe he speaks about oil without additives?
That's rare - only used for oldtimer cars without oil filtering - with insane pricing. And practically additive loaden also after use, when it's worth burning.
Maybe two stroke oil burns cleaner - but i think, it has additives too? I'm not familiar with two stroke oils - never liked two stroke engines, never had one, avoided working on them.
When i was a child, DKW and Krupp Diesel trucks were still around.
And lots and lots of also terrible sounding, blue smoking two wheelers.
That stuck.
@@werner.x I think he is referring to mineral spirits or paraffin. Maybe I misunderstood.
Haha... two strokes are simple and easy compared to diesel or 4 cycle gas engines. Simple to work on... complex in theory.
Two cycle oil would burn well, I assume, as it is designed to burn away without leaving ash or carbon. The only issue is that because it is consumed, you don't get used two cycle oil, haha. I had considered burning some last year to see what would happen. I think it would be okay, if you got it nice and hot.
@@loweredexpectations4927 im going to do that soon to text you
You don’t have a right to a man card if you don’t add a turbo to this thing lol
HAHA... you mean my little air pump doesn't count ?
@@loweredexpectations4927 🤔well lol you have a point there, also I have you An idea, you could use a like heater core or small radiator and have a fan blowing through it and take advantage of the heat from the exhaust as well. Whacha think? And if your 12 volt supply is big enough it would run the fan and the heater. This idea comes from where I saw someone basically take a window air conditioner and he basically buried the evaporator coil outside and put the condenser coil in his room and mounted a fan to it and it worked wonderfully for a heater.
@@jamesmiller8299 For sure... The radiator idea could totally work.
Iron is only magnetic
Rust can be reduced to iron by the flame.
Is this comment in reference to using a magnet to clean the oil , or just a statement of fact ?
@@loweredexpectations4927yup, only magnetic metals are iron content.
@@loweredexpectations4927 yup facts
ATF burns way hotter.
Are you talking in general, in a waste oil burner or in one of these heaters specifically. Just curious.