Old School IPA Evolution Recipe and Methods For HomeBrewers
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- čas přidán 19. 08. 2024
- Old School IPA Evolution Recipe and Methods For HomeBrewers
This video shares my very tried and tested "Old school IPA evolution" recipe and all methods required for this brew.
Shown and discussed in this video is also my testing of using a regular brewing system with overflow pipework in a different way without the top plate.
Here is the recipe used in this video:-
OLD SCHOOL IPA EVOLUTION
Brewfather link:- share.brewfath...
American IPA
Author: David Heath
Type: All Grain
Batch Size : 25 L / 6.6 US LQD Gallons
Estimated ABV 6.6%
IBU : 55 (Tinseth)
BU/GU : 0.89
Colour : 17.5 EBC
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72%
Mash Efficiency: 74.9%
Original Gravity : 1.061
Final Gravity : 1.011
Mash Profile
High fermentability plus mash out
65 °C/ 149 °F - 60 min - Temperature
75 °C/ 167 °F - 10 min - Mash Out
Fermentables
6.426 kg /14.17lbs - Pale Ale 8 EBC (90%)
357 g / 12.59 oz - Carahell 25.5 EBC (5%)
214 g/ 7.55 oz - Caramunich I 101 EBC (3%)
143 g / 5.04 oz - Wheat Malt, Pale 3.9 EBC (2%)
Hops
15 min - Centennial - (10 IBU)
15 min - Chinook - (10 IBU)
10 min - Centennial - (10 IBU)
10 min - Citra - (10 IBU)
Hop Stand
15 min hopstand @ 80 °C / 176 °F
15 min - Centennial - (5 IBU)
15 min - Chinook - (5 IBU)
15 min - Citra - (5 IBU)
No weights are given to avoid error. Please use the hop IBU values with your own hops AA% for an accurate result.
Dry Hops
3 days - 37 g/ 1.31 oz - Centennial -
3 days - 37 g/ 1.31 oz - Chinook -
3 days - 37 g/ 1.31 oz - Citra -
Yeast
1.3 pkg (suggested, I used 2 pkg)
Fermentis Safale American US-05
Fermentation 18C 5 days
Increase to 21C over 3 days and ferment until you have a stable FG for 3 days.
Channel links:-
groups/Brewbeer
www.teespring....
Introduction music:- Drink Beer (Till The Day That I Die) by Dazie Mae
Channel links:-
groups/Brewbeer
www.teespring....
Introduction music:- Drink Beer (Till The Day That I Die) by Dazie Mae
Channel links:-
groups/Brewbeer
www.teespring....
Introduction music:- Drink Beer (Till The Day That I Die) by Dazie Mae
My first David Heath Recipe - 10L trial batch BIAB. I had my first bottle last night- yum! Better and stronger than Chieftain IPA. A couple of these will make me sleep, so I'll have seen this one off pretty quickly. 30L batch in the stainless conical next time! Thanks.
Great to hear Chris, yes this one took much trial and error to get it where I wanted it .
Enjoy 🍻🍻🍻
I really like the detailed treatment of dry hopping. These "small" mechanical operations have substantive impacts on the final outcome.
Cheers Jim, yes its all in the details :)
Great spin on a classic! I'd say in the US melanoiden malt is a good substitute for carahell. It adds a nice malty flavor that's subtle.. That recipe is right in my favorite zone 6 % abv and bu/gu under 1.0
Many thanks Brian, yes this should please most that want some bitterness bite without being too extreme.
Thanks Brian! I was curious what would be a good substitute for carashell.
A crystal malt of low colour will work, as will a darker one but less.
As a new homebrewer I find your videos excellent and appreciate getting advice from a true expert in the field. I especially love that you have your recipes in Brewfather as this makes it very easy to incorporate them for our use. Thank you, thank you, thank you. P.S. The girls with the dirndls always puts a smile on my face. Best regards from New Jersey.
Welcome to the channel and this great hobby 🍻🍻🍻
8 days in the keg, really nice IPA! Bit of bite, nice alcoholic warmth, good hop flavours, just really good drinking and all-round goodness! Cheers David, love it!
Great to hear Craig, many thanks for the feedback 🍻
Good to have you back David. This is one I will be brewing for sure!
Many thanks Paul. It has certainly got its fans here :)
Thanks a lot for the recipe. I went brewed a very similar one inspired by your recipe... due to the hops I had available in my freezer I had to replace Centennial with Simcoe and Citra with Galaxy. But I guess it should be in the spirit of your recipe. The result is an amazing amalgamation of old-school pine and grapefruit with juicy tangerine flavours, all nicely supported by the orange/golden color. It's my favourite IPA I made so far. I'll definitely try more mixtures of old-school and new-school hops like this one in the future.
That sounds good Simon 🍻🍻🍻
Looking forward to brew this one :) Will give my impression on the beer, I can add the Bourbon Stout has change.
First it was good strong taste ++++, then it lost some of its flavor +++ now it is round smooth incredible well balanced ++++++ a fantastic beer.
Thanks for all the effort and time you put into the channel to help others. 👍👍👍👍👍
Many thanks Allan. Great to hear that you are happy with the Bourbon stout. Yes it will evolve over time. Well worth the wait for its true balance 🍻🍻🍻
I wonder how many people fainted and fell off their chairs when they saw you dry hopping like that, worried about oxidising their beers. Great video and one to put in my To Brew folder.
Haha, if they did then they have it wrong. I think a paranoia has developed and its a goid think to address. Cheers David, glad you enjoyed it :)
Today me and my buddy are attempting our 2nd brew day Our 1st failed at the fermentation But looking forward to this small batch so we can start Attempting your recipes
Best of luck John, let me know if you have any questions. I am always happy to help 🍻🍻🍻
The color 😍 This is my next brew. Thank you David
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Awesome video, David! I love, love, love these beers. I’ll add this to my brewfather collection as I do many of your recipes. I know you get good results and in fact enjoy mashing in 1 kg at a time. I’ve tried something new recently. Having an Anvil Foundry, I have mash in temp at 149º F (65º C), fill grain bag with grains in malt pipe, lower malt pipe into mash water. This is effectively “under letting” the grain. I then heat the mash again to desired mash temp. The grains get wet without much work. I worry that adding grain to higher temp water, which is eventually lowered by colder grain, that the first grains are denatured a bit. Thanks for any thoughts. Have a great day! 🍻🤓
Thanks John. Yes underletting is an old way that works pretty good. I think it is about finding a method that you feel works on the basis of consistent efficiencies.
Thank you for adding to my "to brew" list. :) Love it! Another excellent video! Cheers!
Cheers, much appreciated 🍻🍻🍻
This hop schedule sounds delicious. I much prefer some of the old-school piney and tropical fruit flavor hops.
Also noticed the "beer guy" at the end. Glad to see you are constantly listening to feedback from your community. I feel that this is a fair compromise for the "beer girls" that some of your viewers were upset about while still keeping with your brand.
Thanks Gabriel. Yes this works really nicely. Good to see that you noticed the beer guy. I figured it was a good statement. I will mix up the images more in the future. Its impossible to please everyone (most want the beer girl) but I do try!
Happy new year. Great to see you back David and this video was up to your usual very high standard. I also miss these older IPAs with more bitterness and this looks very interesting. I have added it to my list!
Happy new year Alan. I agree!! Its great to have a mix of IPA styles. More coming!!
what would be the best temperature during the dryhopping days??
Thanks for your video and recipe David.
Its a matter of taste. I personally do not adjust it down anymore but some prefer 18C
Thumbs up, not only for video but it's description content.
Thank you 🍻🍻🍻
Old school,i like it!🍻
Thank you 🍻🍻🍻
Obrigado Portugal... Vou fazer esta receita... Bom Ano... E boas brejas
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Brewing this one tomorrow! Everything is weighed out ready to go. Will be using WLP051 @19C.
I’ve scaled it back to 20L. It took me a while to catch on, but I see this is a 25L batch with >7kg of grain hence the imperative to stir mid-mash and making without top plate for sake of convenience. My mash is just over 6kg which I think will be a more comfortable volume to manage.
Spot on David, that will work very nicely :)
Let myself down! Decided to hold back some of my yeast to use in another beer and didn’t think about how big this wort is; mine came in at 1.065
Now, 5 days after fermentation began I’ve got quite a sluggish fermentation and SG is at 1.032
I think I’m gonna need a rescue mission, using that yeast I held back
Yes, pitch that back for sure
I made a fresh starter, 2 litres @ 1.040, using my remaining yeast, pitched when very active. This took the beer quickly to 1.018, after which I added the dry hop. 4 days later it was at 1.012. I ran it in to 19L keg and bottled 3 litres. Currently conditioning at 9C.
I might drop the temperature to 5.
Not really sure what to expect. Tastes rather harsh to me at this point but it’s not a style I’m used to and I’ve never brewed one before.
Time will tell David. Fingers crossed 🍻
Fantastic! Really want to give it a try! Prost!!
Cheers Jamie 🍻🍻🍻
FULL REVIEW: David, I was looking for an "Old School" recipe and stumbled on to this video. I thought it looked great, so I brewed 10 gallons Followed your recipe closely with a few small changes. I used San Diego Super Yeast (big 2.5L starter). Here are my thoughts: Immediately I knew I would like (love) it! The nose is resinous (thank you Chinook), not the overdone fruit-bomb of the current market (don't get me wrong, at times I really enjoy those too). The middle taste fades into the after taste and that is where I find the Centennial contribution as well as the Citra. Light citrus with a subtle tropical fruit flavors that I enjoy. Very nicely balanced out and leaving me wanting for the next sip. I used Crystal 10 in place of CaraHell. My efficiencies were good, and coupled with the shorter boil (I was probably around 45 minutes) my ABV wound up to be 7.8%, but I'll tell you it is smooth/dangerous! I brew and drink a lot of beer, but this one just might become my House IPA. Great job and thank you for the video (and all your other ones too). All the best to you, -DT
Great to hear and thank you for your tasting notes. Yes, balance is king for sure 🍻
Great video David!
Cheers CH!!
Firstly thank you David for all the great clips and advice. In this recipe I see you have left the top screen out and just recirculated into the grain bed, much like the G40
So allowing one to stir the grain bed. Is this a better option to do on the G30 as a normal or could it introduce other problems
Thanks Paul. I suspect that it would work on any similar brewing system. As for better option thats really debatable. Naturally you lose efficiency unless your stir without the plate but then we are only talking a short time.
Great stuff as always David, this goes straight in the to do list, and on top of it for sure! Thanks and Best wishes for a happy and safe new year... Cheers!✌
Many thanks and happy new year Francesco 🍻
Thats an old west coast Triple C IPA recipe! One of my fav =)
I love it :)
This is the first batch I'm going to brew in my new Brew Hardware eBIAB recirculating system , when UPS delivers it, Still in transit.
Great, hope you enjoy it John 🍻🍻🍻
Great looking recipe!!
Many thanks :)
Great video and looks like a really good recipe, I actually tried something very similar (minus the Citra) and it was one of the best beers I brewed. 🍻
Cheers George 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks for the great video. I might try your mashing technique next time. I find that every time I have a thick mash in my Brewzilla 30 it wants to overflow anyway. Might as well just let it happen at this point
Its worth experimenting with Vince, if you prefer it then why not? :)
Fantastic video - another great beer as always David. Thanks. I brewed this beer Sunday. After 72 hours, fermentation is still in progress with a current gravity of 1.031 (Original Gravity :1.059). I have a question about Dry hopping. When you said time schedule for Dry hopping is 5 to 10 points of final gravity: does it mean for this beer a gravity of 1.016 to 1.021? Could be around the 4th day ? because in your video your Krausen seems to be still huge .
For the Verdant IPA (another amazing beer) I didn’t follow your recommendation about dry hopping and I did it after the end of fermentation, diacetyl rest and soft crash to 15°C. This time I would like to try your method.
Thank you. Yes thats right. It works very well.
Another great video. BTW, Chinook is pronounced Sha-Nuk (short ‘u’). Among others, it was a jargon spoken among the NW tribes, before immigrants moved in.
Thanks Mark. Yes, ive been told this before but I forgot. I have heard more Americans say it the way I did though than not though. I guess as long as people know what I mean then its ok right? 🍻
I think as long as we understand each other then different dialects work.
I did not understand you, that is the only reason I mentioned it. If i had not seen the text, i would not know. Since the term originates from here, we are very used to hearing it only one way. Other words i am used to different accents of syllables etc.
Fair enough :)
Thanks for another brilliant video David. I also have the BZ 3.1.1, and wanted to ask - with no top plate on during the mash and using the overflow pipe, do you not get a lot of grain going down the pipe and being present in the boil? or is your grain bed settled enough that it's not a problem? amazing colour on the beer also 👍 cheers!
I have the pipe close to the water line but submerged. It has worked out fine the 3 times ive done it. A small amount of stainless steel gauze mesh could be added if grain became an issue.
Sounds lovely
Cheers Ken, yes it works very nicely :)
Great video David? How do you chill your wort from 80 Celsius to pitch temperature? Do you use again your scylla? And if so how you sanitize it again without the use of boiling temperature?
Thank you. I finished off with the GF supplied CFC which I pre sanitised during the boil. If I wanted to continue with the immersion chiller then I would have left it in.
Hi David
I was wondering if there was a whirlpool in there somewhere.
I only whirlpool if the filter needs it, like with the GF G30. I give my hops a really good stir in when they are added though.
Definitely going to try this! A few questions for you.
1) Off the top of your head, do you have any alternatives for Fuglsang Pale Ale malt. My brew shop doesn’t have it.
2) do you have any recommendations for force carbonation instead of letting it carb at 12psi for a few weeks?
Cheers!
Great.
1) Any pale ale will work
2) Any regular overcarb method will work but its not a practise I use. Typical would be to set a pressure of 50 PSI and roll the keg back and forth for 3 minutes. Then set to 10-12 PSI for serving.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you!
🍻🍻🍻
Hey David,
Great video, gonna have to give this a go.
I'm thinking of getting a larger system.
Do you have a video or any tips on scaling up recipes?
Obviously time to get to pitch temp will differ if you're chilling 20L or 150L which would change end results.
Hi Ruan, the easy way to scale recipes is with brewing software. The malt is simple maths but the hops are not.
Hello David, thank you for another great video it is much appreciated.
Can you please tell me if it is possible to substitute kveik yeast? How would it affect the flavor profile?
Thank you again
Hi Jason, Lutra or Voss at 20C will work great. 🍻🍻🍻
So glad to see that you have finally replaced the mini-skirted barmaid 👍
From the feedback I have had I think 90% would prefer a female but I will switch it up to try to please everyone. Its just a way of saying cheers at the end of the video though.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew not having her wont put anyone off watching the channel. I think you can safely assume her presence did lose you some viewers. Its 2021 not 1971!
Im not sure, more people came forward saying keep her. So I am going to vary it.
Hi David, great video and recipe. I have a question about dry hopping. I am using the GF Conical fermenter, and intend to add the hops in a bag just like you showed in the video. My question is about cold crash, I did not see that in the video, so I assume you are not cold crashing? am I right? But what if you do want to cold crash, do I need to take the hops bag out before cold crashing? And if so, what is the best way to take it out?
In addition, do you add any weight to the hop bag in order to allow it to dive in? I’m usually adding some marbles.
Thank you!
Hi, I do cold crash, I do often cold crash but often this is not shown on camera. Its good to remove the hops before but not essential. Marbles are a trick I use often 🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you David for the quick reply 🍺
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Geez, you could've given us all a 🚨hairy hand warning🚨! Looks like a cracking recipe. Appetising colour- what I want from my IPAs these days. Think I've had my fill of the ubiquitous hazy yellow hop bombs with no malt character.
Haha, it was done for shock value!! It sure is nice to have a variety of IPAs. 🍻🍻🍻
Looks great! Will definitely be worth a try (and just in time for my lhbs order - I’ll test super San Diego with it). I feel like I can almost smell the hops watching. . Any reason you did not rocket the hop stand? I was betting to myself you took the Zilla for the cam lock to attach the hop rocket. One thing I discovered for dry hop is whiskey stones. They work great!!!
Thanks, yes this is pretty awesome to my mind. I would have liked to use a hop back but if I show it with each IPA some will be negative about that. You know how it goes!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew some people don’t like singing hops. Their loss.
Btw have you ever figured out how to sanitary dry hop with a hop back?
I can never please everyone. Ive not had any issues with my method. Clean and sanitary hop back loaded with a clean and sanitary hop bag plus the hops.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew now you are fishing for compliments lol. You rock
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, I've brewed this recipe a few times (and love it) an am now thinking about trying it with a co-fermentation of Windsor + Nottingham. Any thoughts?!
Great. What are you hoping for from that combination?
I’m hoping for some fruity ester notes that complement the hops, and a little more complexity. I’m also wanting to try co-fermentation after watching your vids. I’m hoping that pairing of yeasts will work well in an IPA
Windsor is more of an aromtic yeast than an ester flavour one. S-04 with Nottingham would be more what you describe. Or Verdant of course. The Nottingham will give a drier result.
Thanks David. I’m going to do a split batch, so will try a couple options and see what I can dial in!
Great, enjoy 🍻🍻😎
Hi David. Here’s a question regarding your dry hop method - what would be your suggestion for those using a pressure capable fermenter (like All rounder) for fermenting and serving? I don’t think I’ve ever seen you doing that in one of your videos, but would you let the dry hops in, then serve the beer from a float dip tube? Or would you risk opening the fermenter and remove dry hops after your max recommended contact time?
Cheers
Hi Nuno, I have actually covered this in the past. The process is the same except that you will need to remove pressure when opening the lid. You can then decide to add pressure back in or let it raise naturally. After the dry hop period remove the bag with a clean and sanitary paddle or similar. Or keep them in and reduce temperature for serving. It will not hurt at 5C or below.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Does this mean that I without any risk of astringency could let my ongoing fermentation of this recipe go past the recommended three days od dry hopping? To 4 or 5 days, without any problems? The yeast is struggling to go below SG 1.015.
You should be ok, if you have to :)
Hi David
Thanks for the video and recipe. Definately will try this. My question is the Malt, is there a recommended substitute for the Fuglings? I am unable to source this in my location. Also noticed your hops were brown, are they any different to the green hops I normally source. Relatively new to all grain brewing and still finding my feet. Cheers
Hi, ignore the malster and go for the grain type or as close as you can get. My hops are green but sometimes the lighting and camera can make them appear brown.
Is the recipe in brewfather? I've had a quick look under your name but couldn't find it
There is a link in the videos description, this can be found under the video on a desktop computer.
Probably will make this. Not sure I fully understood the point about the top plate though. Was the overflow submerged? Was there anything stopping grain being drawn down the overflow pipe?
Thanks David. The top plate is there to evenly distribute water during the sparge and wort during a recirculated mash. It helps with efficiency.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew hi David, thanks for your reply. I actually was referring to your point made at around 2.5 minutes in, where you said you weren’t using the top plate and were leaving the overflow submerged in top of mash. I feel I would possibly get a lot of grain going down the pipe and potentially choking the pump at some point so I wondered if you were filtering somehow as I’ve seen you do with the G30, using a strainer over the pipe.
Yes the overflow was submerged. Ive tried this several times now without any issues. Its fun to experiment as I see it. There are potential pros and cons to all methods but so far so good on this one.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I guess you get some grains flowing down to the bottom plate, but that is not a big deal?
Nothing that has been a problem so far. You could add a filter to the overflow if it proved to be an issue.
I’m hoping that I haven’t overlooked a previous comment addressing this question, but here goes….
Fuglsang isn’t available in the USA, but the SRM indicated in your recipe suggests to me that it is kilned similarly to English pale malts, rather than American 2-row/brewers’ malt. Would Crisp or Munton’s Maris Otter be an appropriate equivalent to Fuglsang?
Hi Craig, No worries there. Just use something similar that you can obtain, it will work 🍻🍻🍻
HI ! Great video as always. Just a quick question ; for a hoppy beer like that, dont you risk oxydation when pouring your wort in your fermentor like that, aka with a lot of air and bubbles ?? Thx
Thanks Pierre. No, at this stage you need oxygen for your yeast. Wort needs oxygen but beer is ruined by it.
thank you David for this recipe. I will definitely brew it. do i have to adjust this recipe for my grainfather g30.or can i leave it as is. Thank you.
Hi Robin, You will need to adjust this one when it comes to water volumes and also so that it matches your own ingredients.
Packed with info with no waffle as always. I have a couple of questions please; What are your thoughts now on hop spiders and hop bags in the boil and thoughts now on adding carbonation using sugar not pressure and temp in the conditioning stage.
Thank you. I am not a fan of using hop spiders or hop bags in the boil due to the losses this provides and the fact that it also provides more to clean too. Some brewing systems can certainly be easier to use when you use such things to prevent clogging on filters. A simple whirlpool would be one solution instead, which also offers further benefits. However I would rather fix the route of any problem rather than band aid it. So if the filter is not so great then replacing it or simply adding another filter on top like a false bottom would be my preference overall.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David, I'll try and persuade Dan to ditch the spider. What are your current thoughts on carbonation methods?
I prefer to carbonate with pressure. That can start in the keg or in the fermenter. Bottling is a great way to start but its a-lot easier and more space efficient to keg. If I need bottles then I can transfer from the keg into bottles. This gives a nice clean result without yeast.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your time in replying David
Cheers :)
Hi David. Awesome video as always.
Gonna brew this in a couple of weeks; what are the AA% of the hops you used for this? - so i can match the dryhop as accurate as possible.
…Or does AA value only become relevant when boiling the hops..?🤔
Hi Dan, if you go to the videos description section (found between the video window and the comments) then I share the recipe in full with a link to the recipe on Brewfather. I do give amounts for dry hops just not the hops in the brew. This is to ensure that people brew the recipe as intended.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ahh, of course - i missed the brewfather link somehow.. Got it now. Thank you very much!
Cheers Dan 🍻🍻🍻
Funny, been working on a very similar grainbill. I also usually add small percentage of wheat in my west coasters, but been thinking about adding malted or flaked oats instead. Would this work? Shouldn't add too much haze if the percentage is low I guess.
I think its a question of taste. Try it and see what you think is really my best suggestion.
Hi, nice video again but I have a question - what do you mean about Caramunich that is "Drum roasted caramel malt that is munich-based". What I get from Weyermann its normal Caramel malt - after germination its not kilned and its going to carmelization drum. Has nothing with munich malt.
Cheers
Weyermann have a large range of different malts. Not every homebrew store will stock every single one, so for substitution ask for what they have that is closest.
Great! Just one question regarding mash profile, do you usually mash-out? Im now almost exclusively doing 30min boil + single step infusion and Im also tempted to strip another 20min from my brewday not doing the mash-out. There is quite a lot written about this topic, including at least one brulosophy experiment Im aware of - and yes, I agree, you cant take one triangle test that seriously, but quoting some respectable brewmaster "there is no need to do everything just like the professionals in home-brew scale“. Id love to hear your opinion. (btw, yesterday I brew SMaSH Citra and for the very first time I didnt mash-out:))
...and just to add - Im trying to cut my brewday time (and save some energy too) without compromising quality of the final product whatsoever
Sure no problem. I am all for saving time without reducing quality. I only mash out these days to help the sparge. If I remove the sparge then I notice beer loses something in the flavour department in blind tests. Try it yourself and if its the same for you then skip both steps :) All that matters really is your perception of the results. I do not see that it matters what others think unless you are brewing for others or commercially.
Hi David what ratio grain -water do you use ?
I am constantly experimenting with this.
Thanks for great videos! Looks like a solid recipe. I wounder tho, would it be possible to scale this to a double ipa style?
Thanks Fredrik. Maybe, though thats untested. I have a triple IPA though coming soon.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks! Looking forward to that!
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Thinking of trying this recipe, what do you think about Mangrove jacks M44 yeast for this one?
Sure, that will work. There are various other types of neutral yeast that will work with this.
Can you suggest any kveik alternative for same / similar results ?
Sure. Lutra or Voss at lower temps will work very well.
Making this tomorrow (Australia), though have had to sub Carahell for Carapils, and Caramunich for Crystal (should be pretty close, though). Weird question time, why a 25l batch this time, David?
Sounds good Craig. I did 25L because I wanted a mini keg and regular keg worth for over Christmas 🍻🍻🍻
I dont understad this, How calculate the correct weight?
No weights are given to avoid error. Please use the hop IBU values with your own hops AA% for an accurate result.
By using recipe software like Brewfather or Beersmith. Input your hops AA% and match the IBU shown in the recipe. I cover how to do this in my recipe conversion guide here:-
czcams.com/video/Vv-bU757E7w/video.html
Hey David,
I brewed a kind a classic IPA i cold crashed and everything and transfered under pressure (fermented in a grainfather conical). After cold crash I transfered my beer to a keg. I lured few pints now, but the color is awful. It is like muddy brown. I use a lot of CO2 (dry hopping/hop rouse/and pressure transfer). But as I was transfering the beer to a keg it looked nice thru the tubing. And now after pouring it looks kind a mudy/hazy and is not clear at all.
Do you have some suggestions why is is this way? Because I have this kinda of problem very long. I made Helles and made transfered beer to few bottles. And the rest to a keg. And the bottles are looking nice and clear.. but the keg is again hazy. It’s frustrating. (Sorry for the long comment)
How is the taste? Could be oxidation or simply it needing to settle out.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew well the taste seems good. I don’t believe it tastes like oxidized. I have this problem with all my beers. I just don’t understand why is this that way. I usually fill few bottles after cold crash (unfortunately not this one because of the oxidation risk for IPA). But I have a helles and a Bock.. they look very nice and clear in the bottles. For example the last Bock I made.. from the keg it was way way darker like almost stout direction but in the bottle it looks very beautiful.. in that dark red direction. I mean the same beer but looks completely different. Or the first beer I made was a hazy ipa on my new system. It came out (from keg) completely the opposite.. it was clear and just a bit hazy. And yeah i did oxidize it because of the cold crash - it sucked some air in the beer.
But still the helles I have, it sits at friend of mine and it it pouring hazy from the keg. But the bottle I have is pretty clear.
Yeah as you can tell all the beers from my keg are hazy looking or much darker as planned. But not if I fill it bottles.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew oh and for the oxidation part. That helles which is at my friends home is still nice and light in the color but still hazy and it’s been sitting in the keg for atleast like 2 months. Although the bottles I have are nice light in color in you can see easily thru (but not the same beer poured from a keg).
Im sure it will clear up with a little time then
Hello, David! Just had been waiting for this ...May I ask you whether the reddish hues are more because of the Carahell or Munich I? Thanks. G
Thank you. I believe that it is the carahell.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I suspected that....
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Trying to understand your mashing technique on the BrewZilla here. I also mash without a top plate on my system and stir every 15 mins but I don't allow the liquid to overflow down the center pipe as I will end up with grain in the pump and in the wort pre-boil. How are you avoiding this issue here? It wasn't clear to me what you were doing with the central overflow pipe once recirculating as it wasn't visible above the liquid
The pipe is pretty close to the surface in the middle. Ive not had issues so far but I have only tested it 3 times in total. If it became an issue then I would add some gauze to the end. Pretty easy fix if needed.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the clarification, I have seen others with my system use the supplied hop bazooka on the top of their malt overflow pipe. I don't use my bazooka on the main tap as they are notorious for clogging but this may be a good use for it!
Yes that could assure no issues.
Hi David , as always a nice video, have a question about the mashing-method
I am not sure but you say that you plugged or took the overflow-pipe away?
In the video you first have the overflow-pipe when mashing in and when mashing I can not see it because the level but is it plugged?
In case with what?
Hi Robert, this is something that ive tried a few times. The overflow is submerged and open. No plate is used. With one short stir midway the efficiency is the same as usual.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok and the flowhose have you just left a bit down in the grain?
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@@DavidHeathHomebrew If my ordinary effeciency for my Gf is 77% in my Brewfather, do I have to compensate because you have 72% in your recepy with this method i suppose?
I tend to share conservative numbers for the public. I think if your stir half way for 2-3 mins then it should even up.
Great smelling recipe mate! I’m 3 days into fermenting in my fermzilla. Any benefit to applying pressure to this? Thanks again for all the advice 🍻
Great to hear Ray. You certainly can.
Once you throw in the dry hops naked (loose pellets and forget about the bag) you'll never go back.
I would say that is a matter of opinion. I suggest people try the various ways and make their own choices.
Sorry, but just not my style, but I'm sure there's plenty of fans of citrus beers. Not quite the 'old school' IPAs I remember 40-50 years ago David. Citrus hops didn't arrive until about 2007 after the Citrus hop breeding program in the early 90s. Maybe I'm an old stick in the mud, but I just don't like the citrus flavour imparted by the use of this type of hop. I always use recipes prior to the citrus hop revolution when brewing an IPA using the available hops of that period.
I think it depends on your definition of old school. I am not going back 40-50 years with this one.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Maybe I'm older than you. 😀 I just don't like the modern take of everything citrus that the modern generation has imparted to many types and styles of traditional beers.
Fair enough Tim but Old School doesnt have a set time of history, just previous. Certainly not historical. But hey, its merely definition.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew So the historically traditional IPA has evolved into the west coast modern IPA. I suppose that's evolution for you. Cheers David.
Rather disappointed to see just another IPA recipe rather than a real old school British IPA. I appreciate that you like hoppy beers, but this is IPA number 22-23 in your videos portfolio. how about other styles that you have not featured, such a California Common, an Italian Pilsner, or a Kellerbier?
Sorry to hear that. I do try to mix things up as much as possible but by far I get more requests for IPA styles than anything else.
Following this due to popular demand are two other IPA recipes but then it will be back to other styles once more. Having said this I have other types of content releasing too of course.
Old school? Well, more like old new school. Still quite far from historical old school IPA like what was actually shipped to India. For me the big difference is that historical IPAs weren’t all about big, fresh hop flavor. A freshly brewed IPA was considered at that time to be undrinkably bitter, so it was purposefully aged to allow the beer to mellow and become less bitter. Old new school (West Coast) or new new school (New England) IPAs are really not IPAs in the historical sense since they are all about fresh, hop-forwardness.
I agree with you 👍 this is a modern IPA using citrus hops which is disappointingly for me, coming from the Old School period of the original IPA.
I never said this was original historical old school IPA.
@@timredd I disagree with you, since the original IPAs were from the mid-18th century and reached their peak in the 19th century. You’re not that old. What you are talking about is a style that was kind of the last historical remnant or evolution from the original IPAs before the West Coast revival that was at least as much a new thing as it was a revival of any prior style. At any rate, all of these 20th century “IPAs”, whether before or after the introduction of modern, citrusy hops, were quite different from the IPAs of prior centuries.
Mark. I never mentioned that this was based on a historical IPA. Old School does not imply a set number of years. Just that it was a previous thing.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yes, there are quibbles to be made about what “old school” or “classic” mean, but my point remains the same that this recipe is of a far more modern style than the oldest school or most classical, original IPAs.
Incidentally, please learn to pronounce “Chinook” correctly. It is more like shi-NOOK than CHIN-ook.
its "shin-ook" not "chin-ook"
Thanks. A couple of others mentioned this too.
Hey Dave, could we apply a similar pressure fermentation as your NEIPA recipe? So, 4 days at 18C, then add pressure (12 psi) at 23C...
Hey, yes you sure can :)
thank you David for this recipe. I will definitely brew it. do i have to adjust this recipe for my grainfather g30.or can i leave it as is. Thank you.
Thanks Robin. You will need to change the water volumes and match the recipe to your ingredients.