I built a switch oled PRO...
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- čas přidán 5. 05. 2024
- Testing the limits of the Switch OLED... Use Code: 'ZACBUILDS' to Get $35 off (+Free Shipping) The Best Selling Carve Mat Frame by Aura at: on.auraframes.com/4cVani6
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oh my god he didn't blank his serial.. he's so banned 😭
Trust me man, nobody who has a modded switch is gonna be playing online anyways
@@sarcasticmcspastic yeah i don't even ever had online
@@sarcasticmcspastic yea but it's still a limiting factor considering playing online is so fun for some games
@@sarcasticmcspastic I still use my sysnand from time to time to play online mariokart, smash, and pokemon with my friends a lot.
He made 2 emunands for some reason too lol
using the FPS locker program you used on the switch, if you go to advanced settings you can actually download a config file made specifically for totk which allows for a higher framerate, makes game speed not tied to framerate, allows for dynamic resolution, and also triple buffers it so it's smoother than stock. I would highly recommend checking if a game has a config available for download in the advanced settings of a game to make it the best possible experience.
And if you have enough soldering skills, you can replace the 2GB RAM modules for 4GB modules for 8GB.
It probably won't benefit too much games but it can allow you to run Android or Linux with more headroom
For instance, someone apparently installed Linux to their switch and ran the Yuzu emulator on it, with 10FPS average, so they emulated the switch on a switch.
@@ThatOneWeeb420You can upgrade the Switch RAM???
That's amazing.
I did that. However, it says that there is no config file found. You’ve got any Tipps?
@@PSYCHOV3N0M Apparently, not for the faint of heart.
I have 2 dead switch boards I can practice on tho lol
@@PSYCHOV3N0M You could say you can Switch out the RAM.
The metal shields are RF shielding for regulatory compliance and better wireless performance, not for keeping people out (but i guess they work nicely for that too)
if they really wanted to keep people out they would’ve soldered the shields down
@@brandon_nope Like the C64 :D
I thought they were there to prevent the data lines from picking up RF like an antenna, which can happen with cellular and WiFi at certain trace lengths.
@@Psychx_ my understanding is it is the other way, to stop the high frequency switching going in with data lines interfering with nearby RF devices. I'm not an expert and could be wrong LOL
@@kelvin1316 It does makes sense both ways around.
I found your channel last night with the first switch mod. Showed my 10yr old son and we’ve now seen all of your tech related builds and still watching. He had to go to bed, but loves this stuff and I love how your content is inspiring him. Great work. Lost my mom to brain cancer almost a year ago just after she bought me the OLED TOTK model. I often worry about my joy cons going out since they’re kinda special to me being my last bday gift from her. I’m now hopeful and less worried since repairing them doesn’t seem to be too difficult. Great channel. I even watch the adds in hopes of it helping you grow. Thanks again.
I'm sorry to hear that a bout your mom.... I'm replying to say I've known 3 other people that got brain cancer and passed as well in the last 3 years. I also heard about more people that I don't know. What is going on?! This scares me.
I’m so sorry for your loss 🌸
But I’m happy you were able to have a nice moment sharing a moment with your son!
About the joycons, there are videos for replacing batteries and joysticks with drift free Hall effect ones.
Depending on your son’s age, maybe it could be a little project together to fix up some 2nd hand joycons as practice and add a custom shell 😊
I appreciate the support and the kind words Paul! Sorry for your loss too, I lost my mom not long ago too and I know how tough it can be around mothers day. Keep your head up and stay strong! All the best man
@@Andronicus87 No need to worry. Alkaline diet is the cure. Cancer (over-acidized cells) cannot survive in an alkaline environment.
I fking cried after reading this, y does life always do horrible shit to seemingly the last bit of good people left :( best wishes for you and your family (idk if i used the right “your” I’m not the brightest bulb in the home depot)
I like that he doesn’t act all high and might and admits mistakes and areas he lacks knowledge in, he appears more human and like-able
plot twist: he's an AI avatar 😁
he almost appears like a real human!
I agree! While people like @NetworkChuck make pretty good tutorials, their demeanor about what they talk about is pretty low. Almost non humanistic!
He's a modder. I haven't met someone who mods consoles or games who wasn't a gigaChad. The whole community and the fans surrounding it, I love the modding scene so much.
And in around 12 hours, Nintendo announced the Switch successor in fear of you
And 12 days into the future I post this comment 😊
ifixit kits are pretty much standard operating procedure if you want to be a DIY on small electronics. When I worked at a repair shop that largely dealt with smartphones, tablets, and PCs, it made life much easier to have familiarity with a set of these tools. I bought my own personal one after I left and love when I have an excuse to use it.
I got one kit gifted to me years ago and its been a life saver in a whole bunch of random applications. It's the best gift I've ever gotten in my life.
i fix it kits are overpriced i bought one from amazon
better tool kits out there that last longer than these though.
i fix it is overpriced
We bought a kit to use at work and I loved it so much, I actually bought my own kit to have at home. It's been one of the best things I've ever purchased, as I use it for everything, from getting into and repairing video game consoles, to using it in place of a paperclip (for resetting electronics etc.), to using it in place of things like allen keys that are too small and awkward to use.
There's probably cheaper toolkits out there, but these are great, and apparently if anything breaks I can just request a new one and they'll send it out. I haven't tried that out yet, but one day I might need to, as the SIM eject / paperclip replace tool gets a lot of use.
Be careful Nintendo is spreading ninjas
Provided he’s not monetizing or promoting ROM piracy he should be fine. He owns the games and the design of the dock is his own original.
lol ninjas🥷
As an industrial designer, I'm an opinionated bastard, so while watching your videos, I'm always thinking, "I would've done this!" or "Why did he do it like that?"
However, your work and, by extension, your videos are excellent! I'm impressed by your upbeat attitude, great humility, and superb design skills!
I'm especially a fan of your postmortem analysis. Few people admit to their shortcomings and what they could have done better, and even fewer designers do that. So, I salute your objective perspective on your work and your ability to share your work's "imperfections" with us. Keep up the good work!
2:12 The metal covers are not a security measure. They are to block RF emissions from the CPU and RAM and other high-speed chips.
The RF shields on the Switch are actually a lot easier to remove since they are just clipped on; some other RF shields are soldered directly to the board and can be somewhat difficult to remove without damaging other components.
Despite all the challenges, I appreciate your upbeat tone instead of catastrophizing like a lot of YTbers may
There are more things you can do on top of this, if you're OK with replacing motherboard-level components, editing some Atmosphere and switchroot firmware sourcecode, repartitioning and reballing: people have succeeded at upgrading the Switch's internal memory chip, bringing us the only Switch consoles with 256GB of internal memory that are known to exist. Even the onboard DRAM can be upgraded. The DRAM upgrades are especially notable because higher-specced RAM chips can be of both higher capacity and higher clock speeds. The Switch being bottlenecked by its slow DRAM, it really, REALLY benefits from faster memory. The Switch firmware doesn't really take advantage of more than the stock 4 gigs of RAM, for obvious reasons, but Linux and Android can benefit from higher capacity RAM as well.
Yes, it's possible to install Linux and Android on a modded Switch too, extending the catalog of software you can run.
Fun fact, even the official filmware should be able to detect 8 gigs of ram. Reportedly switch dev kits were supplied with the 8 gig
It would be if not for the fact that the DRAM ID and capacity is burned into the fuses in retail. So a custom firmware is required for changing DRAM.
Only after that can Horizon OS acknowledge the new memory. Still, no retail Switch software will allocate more physical memory than what a retail Switch has, so the extra memory can only really be leveraged by homebrew.
Android and Linux needs 0 tweaks to account for more RAM. AMS does indeed. But HOS can account for it without mods if you burn the fuse.
@@SkanderAliz Which you can't on a retail console, as far as I'm aware.
@@3lH4ck3rC0mf0r7 yeah fair point, you at least need to use custom software once in order to burn that fuse, but that's it (oh and also it's obviously not a reversible process)
Just an important piece of information. If you spray matte paint that heavy it wont be matte. The directions say on the can to lay down light coats, not spray half the can in one wet coat......
gloss looks better anyway for this application. matches the shiny aluminum back and other slightly shiny parts. even the wood appears a bit shiny. so matte would've been the outlier
2:17 No, those are the RF shields. You'll find them in phones too.
Nintendo won't be happy after seeing this
They’re never happy
very interesting mod for the Switch. Taki Udon did a similar video with the stock OLED system with modding the chip and converting to Linux and actually found that after overclocking the system and hacking it, it was able to play Switch games in 4K under Emulation, which in his own words, is just nuts to even begin to think of. I wondered how much better efficiency and performance THIS mod would be when emulating systems, not only just playing Switch games natively.
Great video, Zac, such a cool thing to discover the potential of the actual hardware and how advance it can get after opening it up.
Careful about posting things related to modchips and Nintendo... they have a tendency to put strikes on channels.
Also should be noted to always test diode values before assembly, it's possible to send voltage directly to the APU/NAND.
#NintendoNinja
I think that's why modding wasn't mentioned in the video metadata, but they could still get at the video based on the custom thumbnail.
I did a screenshot in case Nintendo take it down
Acording to the manual on GitHub, these are safe values!
Mariko variant (HAC-001-01, HDH-001, HEG-001)
CPU / GPU Overclock (Safe: 1963 / 998 MHz)
Unsafe
Due to the limit of board power draw or power IC
Unlockable frequencies up to 2295 / 1267 MHz
DRAM Overclock (Safe: 1996.8 MHz)
if you have a backup of your EMMC, you can run your switch with unsafe clock just fine... I run my modded switch oled at these freq:
CPU: 2397 mhz ( undervolted)
GPU: 1267 Mhz also undervolted
Ram: 2.5Ghz, im looking to oc it to 3.0Ghz in the feature but for now its enough
4IFIR is probably the best cfw to use to overclock the switch safely
I would have been more satisfied with "I Did What NintenDIDN'T"
Because "Genesis Does what NintenDON'T"
🤓
@@arubberroomwithratsdon’t be that way
@@isaiahreinmiller9311 womp womp
@@arubberroomwithrats what’s wild
@@isaiahreinmiller9311 womp womp
And this kids is how you get on Nintendo's blacklist
*Which is worth it anyways*
Yup lawyers incoming.
@KernalPanics but the consumer has the right to open up their consoles to that being modding or preventive matiacnece
@@tobyzilla Oh I know and believe that also Just said it cause Nintendo is notorious for throwing around lawsuits and copyright claims for videos like this.
@@tobyzilla I don't think that's technically true. Under DMCA it would be considered a circumvention of copy protection, which is illegal. That's what the whole "right to repair" campaign is focused on.
@@CrazyRiverOtter Security for consumer products being IP is so bullshit
21:35
Part of the issue is that games like TotK need cheat codes to run. Sometimes, game speed is tied directly to FPS, so they games need more instruction on how to handle speed.
Holy shit, I was expecting the Switch to be the most impressive part, but that dock is just gorgeous.
Dude, this was awesome! Great job!
2:17 Please research before making silly claims. This is an RF shield. It helps them pass FCC regulatory tests.
One thing to note is that there is infact mods for games that allow for higher FPS to work correctly, some games have static FPS mods which makes the game run slower when it drops FPS and other games like TOTK have DFPS mods (UltraCam) which allows the game to run properly at any FPS at any time without slowing down.
This video has given me the courage to upgrade my Nes and Snes, thanks for giving me good insight when it comes to upgrading.
9:28 you could have hooked up the cells to a lipo charger intended for hobby RC (like cars or drones)
Also having a capacity drift like this can be somewhat dangerous, but im assuming the bms is also a cell balancer board
You inspired Me to use k5 pro on my old phone and it made the temps drop by 10 degrees.I also replaced a thermal pad in my old netbook with k5 pro and it made a very significant difference.Thanks for telling about k5 pro.
You have so much knowledge.
I wish i could do all these DIY's one day, very motivational.
I just want to point out that the dock fans are backwards, the switch fan exaust is in the top of the switch and pulling air from the dock is only making a vacuum instead of ramming air into the system.
i was about to mention the same, if the fans were installed the opposite way the temps would decrease even more instead of preventing the switch from getting fresh air.
The current layout just cools the Backplate of the switch and provides preheated air for the intake (but it`s more likely that the two fans create an underpressure and the internal fan is working against it ). Changing the direction also helps with convection cooling.
Its possible that by using the right direction the temperature would easily decrease up to 10°C ! and that would allow an even more aggresive undervolting.
Your builds always turn out fantastically. Would love to see these come out in bulk for wide distribution.
Dude, I am so impressed. That is amazing. Keep doing what you are doing!
there is a LOT of incorrect information in this video.
1) Those "metal lids" aren't there to keep you out (and they pop off quite easily without using the needle) They are often put in place to protect the IC's from EM interference, and for thermal reasons.
2) Thermal putty/pads on the actual heat pipe so close the CPU like that will actually DETRIMENTALLY affect it's performance. The goal is to get the heat AWAY from the CPU, and by doing that, you're causing the vapor inside the heatpipe to partially dump it's thermal load too soon (too far from the cooling fins) that the heat actually runs right back up the pipe to the CPU. *slow golf clap*
3) That "cheap plastic" you mention for the old backplate, is more likely than not, a thermoset thermally conductive plastic (Quite commonly used in these types of applications) And work for what they do. (That's why there are some silly people thinking there is "glitter" in the plastic lol)
4) The "new" switch backplate you have is NOT milled from a solid block of aluminum. It's extruded aluminum/magnesium allow, that has has small parts of it either laser cut, or milled as a finishing process.
5) "The larger intakes on the backplate help increase airflow" YIKES my guy.... So what you've effectively done with these larger intakes, is actually LIMIT the efficiency of the heat exchange. Yes, you will be able to pull in a "wider path" of air, but not "more" air. and infact, this design will cause recirculation, pulling hot air from within the chassis out the opening, and back through the fan. You've also effective halved the pressure of, and there fore the speed of the air moving. Good job.
I would also like to note, that all of the supposed thermal upgrades you are making have literally no basis in factual data. You are simulteniously spreading the heat throughout the chassis, effectively elevating the internal temperature of the ENTIRE device, while at the same time hampering the effectiveness of the CPU thermal solution. What you've done is legitimately more harm to the device than help.
On top
Love these console builds, Zac! You're well on your way to DIY Perks status 😀
Thanks Brad! Appreciate it man, but let's be real I've still got a long way to go before I catch up to Mr Perks 😂
There are special chargers for "naked" Li-Ion and Li-Po cells. Costs around 40 bucks and lets you define the total amount of energy the charger should dump into the cells, the cutoff voltage, etc. It'll then increase/decrease charging current according to some curve that matches the cell chemistry, avoids overcharging, can balance a pack consisting of multiple cells, cycle the battery, aswell as do a discharge tests to determine the real capacity. I'd highly recommend getting one of these! Mine is a combo device that can charge everyhing [Li-Ion, Li-Po, LiFePO4, NiCd, NiMH, Lead-Acid, custom profile (i.e. for a capacitor bank)], which is very, very useful.
Man that was impressvie, such a good modded build and video. I'm pleasantly surprised and satisfied by your work. Subscribed
Thanks for the lovely subtitles dude 🙂 and beautiful work on this project!
We technically already did know the limits of the switch thanks to the Nvidia shield which didn't limit memory and clock speeds like the switch does in both docked and handheld mode. Honestly the biggest issue is memory bandwidth on the switch as games like Tears of the Kingdom show that CPU and GPU increases don't help decrease frame rate drops. It's cool to see that Nintendo could have improved clocks to increase power while keeping the same battery life as the V1 switch. The Switch V2, OLED, and Lite all support HDMI 2.0 meaning that they technically support 4K@60hz thanks to the new Mariko chip. Plus the new dock for the OLED also supports HDMI 2.0 out too.
Although this still puts the switch behind any modern smartphone in terms of specs for the past 5-6 years. One android handheld, the Ayn Odin 2, really show how much further ahead current ARM chips are in both GPU and CPU speeds.
You'd actually be surprised besides the CPU being weaker the GPU is still quite competitive with modern flagship soc especially since it's not really meant for phones being adapted from its desktop variants.
@@Moxzot The GPU really isn't all that competitive as shown with the Nvidia shield. The Switch can barely run the more intensive mobile games that have come out. Tests with games like Genshin Impact and Honkai Star Rail show pretty poor performance even at the lowest setting
@@Moxzot it's adapted from a 7 year old architecture, don't kid yourself.
18:10 A better solution would be to use the signal from the green LED that lights up whenever switch is in the dock and is active. That way you can just leave it in the dock without the fans spinning.
I was so satisfied that you didn't just throw in the air the old shell like 99% of CZcamsrs.
crazy how one man and a massive dedicated community single handedly made a better switch than what nintendo can do
So much dedication! A clear like for me. I enjoyed the video and your craftsmanship very much! Thank you! 😊
This channel is far too criminally underrated, this is such a sick mod that I would be absolutely terrified to attempt lol! Love the content man!
You complained about ToTk running duoble speed when unlocking the framerate while missing the option to fix this with simple patch within the same menu.
Subscribed. This is honestly impressive!
great Video! You could use a 5V PWM board to reduce fan noise and use the front status LED to activate them. This way the fans will only start when actually using the switch.
you have to cycle (fully discharge anf fully charge) batterys with long shelflive in order to see true potential
I have to live vicariously through people like you because in my wildest dreams I couldn't have a fraction of the equipment of knowledge you possess to make this possible.
Dude this is awesome!! I found your channel last night and watching it for hours. Didn’t think you’d do this one and I’m so excited! Great channel!
Hello cool dock, 1 note, your fans are backwards. The switch intakes from the bottom and ejects up top. The fans are sucking in that configuration thus not letting air in
I'm not sure if you've seen them, but the dock looks like it would be perfect for pika screws. They're designed to be shown off on the front of pieces, and with a countersink, it looks like they would sit flush.
Be careful with poorly ventilated resin printers in your house if I remember correctly the give of a ton of VOCs that can increase likely hood of cancer same with ABS for normal 3d printers and other filaments (pretty sure PLA and PETG are safe though and give off minimal VOCs). Stay safe and keep creating, cool vid!
Okay, as much as I’d LOVE a more powerful Switch, I have NOWHERE NEAR the technical know how to undergo such a project.
A note to any newcomers who wanted to mod a Nintendo Switch:
Doing EmuNAND or EmuMMC will prevent your console from connecting to the Nintendo servers. Meaning that you cannot play those Switch titles online while in EmuNAND. The purpose for EmuNAND is to have a little playground on your Switch where you can mess around. But trying to disable those protection or recklessly installing things on your SysNAND will very likely to get your console permanently banned.
So if you want to play mods online (mess around with your friends or have cool skins), do not install any NSPs or convert your carts to digital on SysNAND. You can have mods or whatever there but do it carefully. I have my V1 Switch modded for more than a year running on SysNAND and I'm not banned. Been playing Splatoon 3 or Pokemon online with mods and I'm perfectly alright.
I stumbled upon this video randomly. Absolutely insane! Incredibly jealous of your ingenuity and build skills. You have a new subscriber!
You did great with this project Zac! Love to see your work.
A lot of companies do not need to excel, due to a lot of consumers not being fussy, and/or being gullible. Underdelivering also allows you to release a better version with little effort, one that not overly bright consumers will buy as an upgrade. Apple does very well using this method.
2:16 That's not really accurate in this case, if it was for security they would be FULLY soldered to the PCB and require some real desoldering or hotair rework to remove, not a little needle prying. These are used as both heat-spreaders and RF shields for emissions compliance.
Also a an issue with the batteries you chose! Those are 3.85v/4.4v chemistry cells, they are being charged by a 3.7/4.2v circuit. So there is a certain capacity overhead lost and you won't be getting the quoted mAh at all! If the cell/charger swap was in the other direction, you'd probably have far unhappier cells though! (or fire if they lacked proper protections)
2:15 the purpouse of those covers isnt nessecarly to keep you out, but rather to help A) spread heat and B) mitigate RF interference.
Just a word on why the fans may be really loud for you is that the dock uses USB-PD 15v. The charger will first supply 5v as 'pilot signal' and then switch to 15v when the dock starts to operate. The 5v fans will then also be supplied with 15v and spin quite loudly as you can imagine 😅
When console manufacturers dont give fans what they want, they tend to bring matters into their own hands. And they succeed most of the time.
Still don't know how you don't have millions of subscribers! Another great video. Love everything you do on this channel, keep up the fantastic work my friend.
nice work! Phone batteries are usually charged to 4.35 to 4.4V. By charging them only to 4.2V you are leaving some capacity on the table. So maybe your batteries are not as bad as you thought.
If you’re not selling the switch, you don’t need to worry about changing the font and logo. It’s for personal use.
Would love to see a consolized Switch OLED from you. Would make overclocking and powering the Switch much less of a hassle. Plus adding a larger heatsink would be beneficial.
at that point you might as well just use a switch emulator on a stationary desktop. making a switch immobile kinda defeats the whole purpose of it.
At that point you might as well just wait for the Switch 2 to come out next March
I really can't recommend a smaller iron enough. Something like a Weller WXMP with a 0.2mm tip is ESSENTIAL for micro or pico-soldering.
you literally have every machine and so smart at using them😮
In the future when dealing with any batteries don't use that aluminum solder, just use a spot welder you can get them on the small side for pretty cheap.
Also a typical charge profile with charge until the current reaches 0.1 C so you really don't need such a long saturation charge, it's a little bit hard on the cell, and said you would stop it at 100 ma or a little bit below
This is beautiful work as always. If you are considering other devices to give this treatment PLEASE consider the 3DS xl. By far my favorite console that has not held up to the test of time.
I'd prefer new 3ds but anything ds is cool!
I’m glad I found your channel, I was wondering why I was having problems with soldering a few tabs the other day.🙃
Only issue with this build would be the thermal putty, too thick of a layer and it can actually behave like a heat insulator. This is well established behavior and well documented. It will perform significantly worse than no putty at all - as air could radiate heat away (especially with the fan). He kind of glossed over this section, but I like to believe he knows what he's talking about and did it correctly. This is more of a note for anyone following in his steps.
nah air is horrible at carrying heat
The thing is, Nintendo isn’t intending to make a switch pro anytime soon. They were actually in development of one before they scrapped it because they were really close to start developing the switch 2
I think the fans being loud is probably because they run full power x). You could use a mini arduino to make the temperature sensor and fan curve.
You deep dived in and showed off a lot of cool stuff. Good job with this one!
Very, very impressive, you obviously worked very hard on this project!
1:22 In many games, the new Switches DO improve load times by temporarily boosting the clocks...
Hey Zac,
I didn't see anyone mention this in the comments or you mention this in the video (aside from a vague safety warning), but it is really dangerous to use two batteries that differ in capacities, as it is a serious fire hazard.
It is also not a good idea to use multiple battery cells in a device not designed for multiple battery cells, due to the lack of a battery management system (bms).
Since the cells are In parallel, different capacities are fine and safe. And he did reconnect the original bms, though it looks like he soldered to the wrong points and just bypassed it?
The fact that he is so educated on almost everything but is completely unaware of ToTK 60 fps patches was so frustrating
Okay next step is to transplant Apple Silicon to a custom motherboard and make a fully metallic Frankenswitch by emulating the parts that can't be run natively. With a slightly thicker case for way more battery as well of course!
Best method of checking a lipo battery's health after long shelf life, is to check their output. They should be around 60-70% charged when stored. That will drop after some time, so if the battery still has some mAh left in them, you know they are good. (That's why you shouldn't charge them before you check them) A LiPo will also take more damage while storing at 0% than 100%. Both are bad ofc, but an empty cell is worse and more dangerous than a full one.
The static voltage of a lipo is not a good indicator if its health or capacity. You need to do a discharge charge cycle and measure capacity or test internal resistance
Where do I say voltage?
Great build! Subscribed!
i was thrilled by this video, great scripting and story telling of how you overcame your challenges. really nice upgrades too, i would be curious to see if you could test this with the switch 2 when it comes out to compare the performance. but perhaps the switch 2 will not really change the 30 fps lock imho.
When the Switch 2 comes out I'll definitely find something fun to do with it!
LTT was my favorite CZcams channel for the last 4 years, but after this, you got the title with flying colours!!!!!
I would have gone with a single NF-A12x25 5V or even a NF-A20 5V, plugged to the USB port of the dock, though I don't know the behavior of that USB port. Great video and build!
I was here before the nintendo ninjas take the video down
Nintendo needs to hire this guy for developing the Switch 3.
I think you can wire a resistor in to the fans to lower the speed further, iirc it's what they do on fan noise reducer cables.
This was awesome, I love stuff like this while detesting big companies who believe you should own nothing. The way you make these consoles your own is so inspiring to me. Well, i mean.. kinda. Imma have to look and see if you've upgraded a 3DS, because i don't use my switch for anything other than pokemon so it's not really worth modding it.
Good job! Undervolting the Switch OLED, you had a good bin.
that dock would have been a good opportunity to use those nifty recessed machine head screws i've seen on some woodworking channels
This is awesome. Makes me want to mod my launch switch just for the performance uplifts.
just remove the battery from the inside and add increased cooling with a custom heatpipe and a larger fan. for the battery, you can put it on the back and even make it hot swappable
For people that don't like messing with hardware, I'd recommend installing cfw and dumping roms for use with emulator
My new FDM printer does a great job of being smooth vertically, it's just horizontally where it can get rough. I'm going to make a GB Macro soon with a custom shell, so I'll see how it does on that.
My OLED is only stable at 2100MHZ memory. Also an important note, if your Switch is not stable it can damage the NAND.
Yeeaah you are right bro, i just increase switch lite memory RAM with 4ifir Cfw it can go throug over 2300Mhz too but not long for that my switch lite became stop with orange screen,but fortunately my switch lite Nand is still good,i go back with just go back 1600Mhz and not stop orange screen again
Should call it the Proled
The Noctua fans include an LNA cable, use it to get them running slower and silent.
You wired two batteries of differing capacities in parallel? That seems totally safe.
A litium battery that has not been connected or been laying on a shelf for a longer time needs a few charge cycles to get full power
1) Mix-matching lithium batteries like you did is a horrible idea. I really, *really* hope you rip those out and come up with a better solution, even if it's doubling up the second model of battery you bought and losing a bit of capacity. Or even just put a stock battery back in there and only overclock it when docked (which is the best place to run out overclocked anyway). Just don't leave that battery pack in there, for safety's sake.
2) You could try to optimize the air ducts, but you could also drop the voltage to the fans to get them to spin a little slower without significantly reducing the cooling potential, I'm willing to bet.
Since the cells are in parallel, mixing them is completely fine
It's better than in series but it's still not "completely" fine. It's best practice not to mix batteries ever, period, and I would never take unnecessary risks with lithium batteries.