My tank has a thermal cut off diode which has been known to cook! It is designed to cut out the main DC power which kills the whole thing! As far as I am concerned, it is in place to fix a Design problem where they have located both the wiring harness and mother board module 2” above the flame tube! If wind blows flame out of tube, diode $$ blows to protect the electronics and electrical system! I built a heat shield deflector from thin sheet aluminum placing it between the flame tube and the electronics and have not had another cook off of the diode since!
Hi Joe! To my knowledge, that thermal diode (also known as an ECO - "energy cut off" - switch) is a high-temperature shutoff device. It's an intentional design to shut off the flow of propane in an overheat situation (usually when temperatures exceed 180 degrees Fahrenheit). What is the make/model of your water heater? - Tucker Ballister
@@campingworldThe diode is Called a “thermal cut off switch” nothing eco about it! It is just a “blow fuse” that cooks when overheated, cuts off main DC power which closes the gas valve when the solenoid is de powered! Problem is, it is located too close to the flame tube and cooks without a real overheat condition. A $19.95 replacement item at Camping World! Therefore, the “shield” which prevents premature “ cook off” but will not contain a real overheat condition and will then allow it to “blow” as it should to prevent fire and further damage! Voila c’est tout!
Same symptoms (tepid water), different cause: We have a tempering valve that mixes the hot water with cold to maintain it under 50 degrees celsius (at least here in Australia) to prevent scalding. By removing the cap and adjusting with an Allen key we had hot water again. This action may have increased the temperature, or my guess is that it may have loosened some calcium scale buildup blocking proper operation.
Thanks Ian! As a new RV'er your videos have been a life savor! You always cover the right thing in the right way, clear, precise, and right on point. Thank you!
Hey, it's Ian here. Thank you SOOO much for this comment! Honestly, THIS is the reason I do what I do. Thank you for making my day and be sure to subscribe for future helpful videos (and to help support me 😀)!!
7:15 Mark. Train your inept staff to inform new coach customers that most RV's have been winterized even if not asked for it. By default the water heater is bypassed and the drain plug removed as depicted in this video (white cap, goes on bare drain tube pipe on bottom, use nylon tape. My Heartland Mallard has a hidden panel in the King Kong storage next to the exterior water heater panel in the video and once removed. access was granted to said "bypass valves". Took me 1/2 a day to get hot water.
What if I hen you touch the T&P value and it’s cold? What do we do next? We had hot water and then the next day there was no hot water and we’re trying to figure out why it’s not working because now we cannot use the electric hot water heater because it’s not working and so we’re having to use the liquid propane.
Hi There! Am I correct in understanding that you have a DSI water heater that works using either an electric heating element, by burning LP, or by using both simultaneously? I'd like to start by confirming that first, and then I can find a more specific answer to your question. If you could send the unit's make and model #, that might also help us direct you to the most accurate troubleshooting info. Looking forward to your reply! - Tucker Ballister
What if you have hot water but it doesn't last no longer the under 5 minutes? I'm in a Keystone Outback 2016 I just bought. How do you make it last longer on electric?
Unfortunately, depending on the size of your water heater, it's possible that's about all you're going to get on just electric. Assuming it's a 6 gallon water heater, you can use that up pretty easily in a shower in 5 minutes. Depending on the model, it's possible that you could turn on both gas and electric at the same time for faster recovery. That being said, if you haven't drained the water heater since owning it, I would drain it (when it's cool, do NOT do it when it's hot and be sure to turn off the electric element) and take a coat hanger or some needle nose pliers to help remove sediment as that can also reduce the amount of hot water your tank can hold. Hope that helps! -Ian Baker
Hi There! There may be an outside shower with the additional shutoff valve on the hand wand. If the hand wand valve is off, but the hot and cold valves are on, no water will come out of the hand wand but the faucet will act as a mixing valve. This will send cool or luke warm water to anything downstream of it, but any faucets upstream will be fine. There could be a failure in the shower faucet, so removing the faucet and testing the flow rate and temperature of the water coming out of the hot water line can show if it is the faucet or the plumbing at fault. Only high end custom units would be likely to have individual shut off valves at each fixture as in residential construction, but look to verify there isn't such a valve at or near the shower faucet. Damaged check valves at the water heater or winterizing valves in the wrong position can cause cool or luke warm water, but if these are the problem, there would be no hot water anywhere in the unit. Hope this helps! - Tucker Ballister
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. czcams.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Should I have both the gas and electric on. Will it hurt to have both on? We got our RV In Sept 2021. Only went on 2 short trips before we had to winterize for the winter. We really are still learning. Thanks
Hey, Ian Baker here and great question! You can certainly have them both on the same time for faster recovery if you so choose. Bear in mind the electric elements only run on 120V, so you will need shore power or a generator for those to operate. I do recommend making it a habit (and add it to your post camping To-Do list) to shut off the electric element when you're done with your camping trip. I've seen many times when people have the elements on and drain their fresh water system and end up burning up the elements because there isn't any water in the water heater. Hopefully you find this helpful and I'm not confusing you more, lol. Thanks! -Ian Baker
Hi John! I reached out to a member of our technical team for more insights into the potential for a plugged-up screen and how to remedy that issue. Here's their input: "This is a very common issue with water heaters that use such valves. The screen protects the valve from foreign material and itself is easy to clean up. The first time takes a while longer as you are just sorting out the details, but gets quicker and easier with experience. Here are the basic steps: 1. Drain the water heater. 2. Remove the water line from the valve. 3. Separate the valve from the brass base. **Always use two wrenches, one to move the fitting and the other to hold the base!** 4. Using a 1 and 1/16” socket on a breaker bar and a pipe wrench on the bung, remove the brass base. 5.. Soak the brass base, which contains the screen, in vinegar or CLR. The vinegar takes 24 hours, and the CLR takes just 15 minutes or so. 6. Rinse THOROUGHLY, apply Great White pipe thread dope to the brass base, and assemble in reverse order. 7. Fill the water heater, heat it to temperature, and watch for leaks. Using the correct tools and sealant is essential to a successful repair. The space behind the water heater will be cramped, and this complicates the task. If it is really tight, you may be far better off removing the entire water heater and performing the service on the bench. **Failure to use the correct wrenches and backup wrenches will result in damage to the components. Without using a backup pipe wrench when removing the brass base, you can easily twist the entire bung out of the aluminum tank, ruining the water heater." My final point is that bringing your unit to a service center is a smart idea if you're doubtful about your ability to successfully remove and clean the screen, especially if you think yours may require a complete removal of the water heater assembly. Depending on the year, make, and model of your RV, doing this kind of work improperly can void certain warranties. So, it doesn't hurt to call a service center and schedule an appointment to have your water heater inspected. Here's a link to contact the Camping World Service Center near you: rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance Hope that helps, but let us know if you have follow up questions! - Tucker Ballister
Sorry about that! While it can differ, GENERALLY it's right next to the water heater inside the RV. So find the water heater and you will usually find the bypass valve. -Ian Baker
Hi There! Our goal was to cover some of the most common problems that RVers ask us about, and that most owners will have the ability to fix on their own. For more technical fixes, we always recommend the skills and experience provided by our team of certified RV technicians. If you have any specific questions about your water heater, I'd love to assist. Let us know what you're dealing with and I can reach out to our team for their advice. - Tucker Ballister
Hey Julie, Ian Baker here. Are you referring to your pilot light? If so, I would recommend first checking the burner tube to make sure there aren't any spider webs or bees that made a nest in there. You can generally clean it out fairly easily with a pipe cleaner. If that doesn't work, it may be best to make an appointment with your local Camping World to check it out as it's not always easy to diagnose and fix anything over text. Wish I could be of more help! -Ian Baker
Hey Fred, I'm sorry to hear that. I'd recommend calling your local Camping World service department or taking it in so they can have a look. -Ian Baker
Hey Debbie, Ian Baker here. If you don’t have a switch, that most likely means it’s not a DSI water heater and you’ll want to make sure the pilot is lit by removing the outside cover. If its not lit, I recommend shutting the gas off for a few minutes to let any excess clear out. Then turn the gas back on and light the pilot. If it’s lit but the burner tube won’t ignite, then I’d recommend using a pipe cleaner to clean out the burner tube as often times bugs or spider webs will collect inside it. Hope this helps!! -Ian Baker
We got our rv in August 2021 and heater stopped working. Neither electric nor propane is working. No flame. Are new rvs from camping world under warranty. We had good Sam for 1 year but let it expire.
Hi Mj, we would like to have you get set up with a service appointment and talk with one of our Camping World associates for more information and details. Could you please send us your zip code? We would like to help you.
Thank you for the information. It looks like your closest location is Camping World Hanover. The phone number to call and talk with one of our Camping World associates for more information about warranties is (888) 899-0663. Here is a link to schedule an appointment: rv.campingworld.com/service. If you have any questions, please let us know!
you forgot the outside shower being turned on and the sprayer being turned off allowing the hot and cold water to mix.
AH yes! That's another good one Travis, thank you so much!!
-Ian Baker
yep, happened to me last time I dewiterized
Yep, found that one out the hard way. That and a hidden panel that took me 1/2 day to find the bypass valves.
My tank has a thermal cut off diode which has been known to cook! It is designed to cut out the main DC power which kills the whole thing! As far as I am concerned, it is in place to fix a Design problem where they have located both the wiring harness and mother board module 2” above the flame tube! If wind blows flame out of tube, diode $$ blows to protect the electronics and electrical system!
I built a heat shield deflector from thin sheet aluminum placing it between the flame tube and the electronics and have not had another cook off of the diode since!
Hi Joe!
To my knowledge, that thermal diode (also known as an ECO - "energy cut off" - switch) is a high-temperature shutoff device. It's an intentional design to shut off the flow of propane in an overheat situation (usually when temperatures exceed 180 degrees Fahrenheit).
What is the make/model of your water heater?
- Tucker Ballister
@@campingworld
@@campingworldThe diode is Called a “thermal cut off switch” nothing eco about it! It is just a “blow fuse” that cooks when overheated, cuts off main DC power which closes the gas valve when the solenoid is de powered!
Problem is, it is located too close to the flame tube and cooks without a real overheat condition. A $19.95 replacement item at Camping World!
Therefore, the “shield” which prevents premature “ cook off” but will not contain a real overheat condition and will then allow it to “blow” as it should to prevent fire and further damage! Voila c’est tout!
Same symptoms (tepid water), different cause:
We have a tempering valve that mixes the hot water with cold to maintain it under 50 degrees celsius (at least here in Australia) to prevent scalding. By removing the cap and adjusting with an Allen key we had hot water again.
This action may have increased the temperature, or my guess is that it may have loosened some calcium scale buildup blocking proper operation.
Thanks Ian! As a new RV'er your videos have been a life savor! You always cover the right thing in the right way, clear, precise, and right on point. Thank you!
Hey, it's Ian here. Thank you SOOO much for this comment! Honestly, THIS is the reason I do what I do. Thank you for making my day and be sure to subscribe for future helpful videos (and to help support me 😀)!!
@@campingworld liked and subscribed last week!! Keep up the very good work!
Brad
Thank you so much! This video solved our issue. Really appreciate your style of teaching us what to check! Hot water on this cold morning. 🙌🏼
Love to hear it Donna!! Glad I was able to help!
-Ian Baker
7:15 Mark. Train your inept staff to inform new coach customers that most RV's have been winterized even if not asked for it. By default the water heater is bypassed and the drain plug removed as depicted in this video (white cap, goes on bare drain tube pipe on bottom, use nylon tape. My Heartland Mallard has a hidden panel in the King Kong storage next to the exterior water heater panel in the video and once removed. access was granted to said "bypass valves". Took me 1/2 a day to get hot water.
What if I hen you touch the T&P value and it’s cold? What do we do next? We had hot water and then the next day there was no hot water and we’re trying to figure out why it’s not working because now we cannot use the electric hot water heater because it’s not working and so we’re having to use the liquid propane.
Hi There!
Am I correct in understanding that you have a DSI water heater that works using either an electric heating element, by burning LP, or by using both simultaneously?
I'd like to start by confirming that first, and then I can find a more specific answer to your question. If you could send the unit's make and model #, that might also help us direct you to the most accurate troubleshooting info.
Looking forward to your reply!
- Tucker Ballister
What if you have hot water but it doesn't last no longer the under 5 minutes? I'm in a Keystone Outback 2016 I just bought. How do you make it last longer on electric?
Unfortunately, depending on the size of your water heater, it's possible that's about all you're going to get on just electric. Assuming it's a 6 gallon water heater, you can use that up pretty easily in a shower in 5 minutes. Depending on the model, it's possible that you could turn on both gas and electric at the same time for faster recovery. That being said, if you haven't drained the water heater since owning it, I would drain it (when it's cool, do NOT do it when it's hot and be sure to turn off the electric element) and take a coat hanger or some needle nose pliers to help remove sediment as that can also reduce the amount of hot water your tank can hold. Hope that helps!
-Ian Baker
You didn’t talk about the electric side for trouble shooting!
I have hot water in sinks not in shower
Hi There!
There may be an outside shower with the additional shutoff valve on the hand wand. If the hand wand valve is off, but the hot and cold valves are on, no water will come out of the hand wand but the faucet will act as a mixing valve. This will send cool or luke warm water to anything downstream of it, but any faucets upstream will be fine.
There could be a failure in the shower faucet, so removing the faucet and testing the flow rate and temperature of the water coming out of the hot water line can show if it is the faucet or the plumbing at fault.
Only high end custom units would be likely to have individual shut off valves at each fixture as in residential construction, but look to verify there isn't such a valve at or near the shower faucet. Damaged check valves at the water heater or winterizing valves in the wrong position can cause cool or luke warm water, but if these are the problem, there would be no hot water anywhere in the unit.
Hope this helps!
- Tucker Ballister
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. czcams.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Should I have both the gas and electric on. Will it hurt to have both on? We got our RV In Sept 2021. Only went on 2 short trips before we had to winterize for the winter. We really are still learning. Thanks
Hey, Ian Baker here and great question! You can certainly have them both on the same time for faster recovery if you so choose. Bear in mind the electric elements only run on 120V, so you will need shore power or a generator for those to operate. I do recommend making it a habit (and add it to your post camping To-Do list) to shut off the electric element when you're done with your camping trip. I've seen many times when people have the elements on and drain their fresh water system and end up burning up the elements because there isn't any water in the water heater. Hopefully you find this helpful and I'm not confusing you more, lol. Thanks!
-Ian Baker
Hi could it also be a plugged up screen on the mixing valve
Hi John!
I reached out to a member of our technical team for more insights into the potential for a plugged-up screen and how to remedy that issue.
Here's their input:
"This is a very common issue with water heaters that use such valves. The screen protects the valve from foreign material and itself is easy to clean up. The first time takes a while longer as you are just sorting out the details, but gets quicker and easier with experience.
Here are the basic steps:
1. Drain the water heater.
2. Remove the water line from the valve.
3. Separate the valve from the brass base. **Always use two wrenches, one to move the fitting and the other to hold the base!**
4. Using a 1 and 1/16” socket on a breaker bar and a pipe wrench on the bung, remove the brass base.
5.. Soak the brass base, which contains the screen, in vinegar or CLR. The vinegar takes 24 hours, and the CLR takes just 15 minutes or so.
6. Rinse THOROUGHLY, apply Great White pipe thread dope to the brass base, and assemble in reverse order.
7. Fill the water heater, heat it to temperature, and watch for leaks.
Using the correct tools and sealant is essential to a successful repair. The space behind the water heater will be cramped, and this complicates the task. If it is really tight, you may be far better off removing the entire water heater and performing the service on the bench.
**Failure to use the correct wrenches and backup wrenches will result in damage to the components. Without using a backup pipe wrench when removing the brass base, you can easily twist the entire bung out of the aluminum tank, ruining the water heater."
My final point is that bringing your unit to a service center is a smart idea if you're doubtful about your ability to successfully remove and clean the screen, especially if you think yours may require a complete removal of the water heater assembly.
Depending on the year, make, and model of your RV, doing this kind of work improperly can void certain warranties.
So, it doesn't hurt to call a service center and schedule an appointment to have your water heater inspected.
Here's a link to contact the Camping World Service Center near you: rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance
Hope that helps, but let us know if you have follow up questions!
- Tucker Ballister
Thanks
How can avoid having this screen plug up in the future
I thought you would show us where the bypass valve is at.
Sorry about that! While it can differ, GENERALLY it's right next to the water heater inside the RV. So find the water heater and you will usually find the bypass valve.
-Ian Baker
Seems like you covered all the dumb problems. And when it's time for real problems you say get a professional.
Hi There!
Our goal was to cover some of the most common problems that RVers ask us about, and that most owners will have the ability to fix on their own. For more technical fixes, we always recommend the skills and experience provided by our team of certified RV technicians.
If you have any specific questions about your water heater, I'd love to assist. Let us know what you're dealing with and I can reach out to our team for their advice.
- Tucker Ballister
Hi I have a old RV and my light is not coming on to heat up the water. What can I do please and thank you
Hey Julie, Ian Baker here. Are you referring to your pilot light? If so, I would recommend first checking the burner tube to make sure there aren't any spider webs or bees that made a nest in there. You can generally clean it out fairly easily with a pipe cleaner. If that doesn't work, it may be best to make an appointment with your local Camping World to check it out as it's not always easy to diagnose and fix anything over text. Wish I could be of more help!
-Ian Baker
Have propane turned on and purged,still can't get hot water tank to fire. Water in tank,fuses good.
Hey Fred, I'm sorry to hear that. I'd recommend calling your local Camping World service department or taking it in so they can have a look.
-Ian Baker
What if I get hot water in my kitchen sink but not in my shower? Also I have no outside shower. KZ escape 191ss
no switch on the wall
Hey Debbie, Ian Baker here. If you don’t have a switch, that most likely means it’s not a DSI water heater and you’ll want to make sure the pilot is lit by removing the outside cover. If its not lit, I recommend shutting the gas off for a few minutes to let any excess clear out. Then turn the gas back on and light the pilot. If it’s lit but the burner tube won’t ignite, then I’d recommend using a pipe cleaner to clean out the burner tube as often times bugs or spider webs will collect inside it. Hope this helps!!
-Ian Baker
We got our rv in August 2021 and heater stopped working. Neither electric nor propane is working. No flame. Are new rvs from camping world under warranty. We had good Sam for 1 year but let it expire.
Hi Mj, we would like to have you get set up with a service appointment and talk with one of our Camping World associates for more information and details. Could you please send us your zip code? We would like to help you.
@@campingworld 17331 thank you!
Thank you for the information. It looks like your closest location is Camping World Hanover. The phone number to call and talk with one of our Camping World associates for more information about warranties is (888) 899-0663. Here is a link to schedule an appointment: rv.campingworld.com/service. If you have any questions, please let us know!
forget the service , check the thermal fuse outside at the water heater !. ( noticed he never explained any electrical trouble shooting ? )..lol.