Ronseal Wood Filler and Ronseal Wet Rot Hardener for rotten wood
Vložit
- čas přidán 6. 10. 2016
- Product Review of Ronseal Wood Filler and Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener.
Video shows how the product can be used in and around the home to fill the gaps left when wet rot strikes timber. Its not a DIY video. It shows you whether or not it works as described by manufacturer.
In fact, this video may even show you how not to use this product! - Jak na to + styl
Really useful to see it being done by a layperson and not an ‘expert’. Given me confidence to have a go!
Dear Lord people give him a break. He said this film was just to let us know if the product works & it does. I thank him for this. I’m sure you all were watching it for the same reason as me.
I’ve applied the wet rot hardener with a hand held spray gun. The type used to spray indoor plants with a mist of water. Works fine and you can spray into really awkward places where you can’t get a brush into.
Hi! Thank you for your very helpful comment. I do hope lots of viewers see your idea. Regards and please stay safe from John
Wow. "Tubular Bells". I was educated and terrified at the same time.
Thanks for the video!
I was a teen when Tubular Bells came out. I loved it and was terrified by it at the same time.
@@Butterflyneverlands It's relaxing but at the same time you are just waiting for the guy in the William Shatner mask to come and slice up your........rotting wood.
If you’ve a home workshop, with a table saw etc., save your sawdust! Especially if you use a dado set! Mix this with 5 minute epoxy to fill the worst of the holes. The sawdust leaves a very rough surface to which these fillers will adhere well. Then apply a finish layer and smooth according to manufacturers recommendation. (The product I used called for using denatured alcohol as a solvent to lightly smooth the finish, with your finger.) Makes sanding a whole lot easier! And a big THANK YOU to the author of this video! Gives me another product to try.
Thanks, that’s helpful, too!
I had some really big holes (much bigger than that) so in the end I put pieces of wood into the holes to save on filler.
Very helpful video. Using expanded foam for larger holes has saved me a fortune! Thanks again.
Would love to see some photos of this work two or three years later to see if it's cracked and opened out?
Perfect color choice! It stands out and matches at the same time!
i used both in the past, the harder defo works. the filler was only half a tin , grrr. set to quickly, very little working time, grrr. but it sanded down easy and left a smooth finish. Yeah. Yes i will buy and use again... thank you, for your video.
Thanks for sharing!
I was told by a friend who does professional commercial rehab jobs that it's a well known fact in his circles that there are a lot of types of bugs that LOVE expanding foam insulation. He told me they burrow into it, use it for nests and end up having large colonies or nests. He said he wouldn't use it anywhere insects may have access to it.
That must be regional as far as insects that will do that because what ever they are we do not have them here in southern california... I have been using expanding foam ever since it came on the market and in fact most often I use it specifically to keep insects out of places like to seal holes where pipes etc run through framing. There are different grades of the product and I believe one is specifically anti insect although I just use the standard grade type myself... Now there are places one would not want to use it like if there is rotted wood then the source of the water that caused the rot must be found and corrected before any repairs as future moisture to the repaired area would hold water (the previously rotted wood not the foam although the foam would block it drying out and thus increase future rot probability) Another thing about expanding foam is if you want to make it cure faster you actually spray/mist it with water as that makes it cure faster. it does not absorb the water. Now if a repair area that has foam in it does get wet that previous rotted wood with the new moisture in the already compromised wood would be a prime location for insect activity (not the foam itself but surrounding materials) but all of that would point to repair work not being done correctly in that the original problem, the moisture source was never addressed and thus is human error not a product failure.
Great , been using this on my windows, my neighbours must think I am mad , my bay windows are 6 windows each, total 12 up and downstairs, I remove each window restore and put back, including bathing the original iron cast hinges in paint stripper and then clear lacquer them. Takes me ages but when it is done looks great , all other neighbours have white plastic windows !
Good honest review, I’ll be trying this on parts of my shed. Thanks for sharing
You’ve done a great DIY there, bundles better than it was before! Thanks for taking the time to do this, I will be buying both for a used garden table just purchased! Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I have just literally used both these products this week on my shed and my son's play house which he now uses to store his weights and bench since he's now 21 ha ha. I am waiting for the filler to dry and then I will be sanding down and hopefully repainting with ronseal fence life/timbercare. I am getting so much done in the garden during lockdown. Fingers crossed it turns out as good as your porch did.
Hello Missy Moo, thank you for your Comment. Mine sanded down well and porch still looks good. Since Lockdown I’ve had time to paint every stick of outdoor furniture! Stay Safe from John
Really helpful vid; liked your additional text comments. Thank you!
Oh, and I love the marigolds, mate! 😉
Thanks! Wasn’t even looking for such a solution, but I have such an issue to resolve, door frame rot from the weather over years, and it’s good to know of these products. I would also use the expanding foam and the two products used here…I might use an oscillating cutter (the tiny saw tool, some people call a “multifunction” tool, it’s definitely not the old-school definition of one), to precision-cut away the worst of the rot if it is significant, then either set a new piece of wood in while setting the rot as shown here, and fill to a uniform shape or nearly so, and where possible, patch it with a solid new piece, screwing it into wood that is stable, sinking the screw just enough, cover the sunken screw, and patch amd sand the difference to get a clean corner, or a clean line even if if doesn’t come to a corner, and paint it all up.
But every situation is a different, with its own little nuances. A new little piece of wood to help fill major gaps or make a clean corner may or may not fit the situation. Just, for when I could, I’d use all this and patch in a new piece of wood for big gaps, when rot has done serious damage…though lumber prices are high, the product is surely even higher, 😉and I keep nearly all my scrap, it is useful for something eventually. Even today I used some scrap on a project. It’s all I needed. I know the info here is going to help fix 3 exterior door issues for me, so thanks! 🙏🏼😊💕
LOVELY END PRODUCT...I used BONDO for car repair on a section of wood on my front door. It has worked like a charm (with a bit of work and sanding and painting)
Ah the joys of sanding bondo. I always liked the repair and painting guy on Fast and Loud who absolutely HATED the stuff with a passion! But does do the trick. Expanding foam is useful as well but the stuff is a serious pain in the ass and generally I found it sticks to practically everything you DONT want it to and you often end up wasting it as it tends to stick in the nozzle before you can clean it off.
@@anarchyantz1564 Absolutely right about that foam! I used it once and not again!
What bugged me the most was the damn foam stuff isn't exactly cheap either. Did find a small trick though using a small can of it if you absolutely have to use it. Cut the long nozzle down to a more manageable size, then stick your finger over one end and squirt some WD40 down it. Then with fingers at both ends, slosh it back and forth to get the pipe lubricated then use the foam. End result is it sticks less then to the nozzle pipe thing but have yet to find a way of it not sticking to pretty much everything else though lol. Its a sod of a job getting the yellow marks it leaves off white PVC. Definitely will give the car filler cheap stuff a try next time though.
@@anarchyantz1564 Thanks for the tip in the rare case I may need it again!
Yes, this filler is clearly Bondo, not expensive if you buy it from a auto store.
Thanks make! That is just what I needed to know so I can do a temporary repair on a wooden door sill! Next year I will be putting in better doors so I only need a quick repair for now! Thanks! :)
As for cleaning brushes, I used Hammerite brush cleaner for Hammerite paint and it wouldn't touch it. I also lost a couple of brushes!
Wow, I'm impressed with your work and the product.
Great idea, thank you for sharing. I was looking something like that because I have the same situation!!!!!
Great video. Telling me all I need to know about this particular product. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
A very well made video... As I do this sort of work I could point out a couple places that could have been done different to give a better longer lasting finish but really I am impressed with your video making skills and wish I was able to do that.
never would have thought of using expanding foam. Good tip!
good tip is don't use it...
Good work. Thanks for the info. Very helpful.
The lid you took off with screwdriver is to mix in
Thank you for the video,it was very informative, I have a wooden conservatory with a lot of rot to repair. I read online that you should drill holes in the non rotten wood to help the filler and hardener adhere, did you not find this necessary?
As with working on an automobile body. Its best to go light on the filler and layer it in. They do sell a bondo brand wood filler and I know as a fact, it works great! When I worked at an old school, we filled window sills and door jams and sanded them down. Then painted them to match the surrounding wood. Problem is, they tore the whole building down 4 years later.
Hi! Thank you for your great comment. I should have take more care to layer the filler. I was in too much of a rush. Regards from John
Wow, this is great.. I did not know they made a wet rot hardener.. Thank you for this video. God bless.
The front edge of that sill is angled up, you might want to add a bit more filler underneath to stop water running down to the good wood. Also, avoid using foam filler wherever possible for this sort of thing as it collects water.
Good video though! :o)
Mix in wood shavings to fill the larger holes as the foam will not last as long as you would like
Thanks Alexander - that's the best tip in many comments! John
Very useful video. Personally, I have found the Ronseal hardener a little too sticky to penetrate the wood well enough and the filler to go off ( hard) too soon.
Was this in typical UK weather or? :)
@@79RockShox Yes, I've used this in all weathers (mostly sunny though) without noticing much difference.
Thanks for this video mate, I think my house has been built exactly the same as yours with the same wood and paint, it's about 20 years old and I need to do something but cannot afford new windows etc, it's just some of the outer frames bits, inside they are ok, I think I'll give this stuff a go, testing on my garage side door first lol! :)
Edit: I'd avoid expanding foam for most external things as it will soak up water, but as long as it's then sealed from the outside using another product I see no problem with it! :)
Hello 79RockShox - many thanks for your feedback and warning. I hope others will read your message. Regards from John
Thanks, this was really helpful and informative.
Well done. Infinitely more pleasing than those upvc replacements that seem de rigour these days.saving £ as well. Iain w in glasgow
YOUR JUST MISSING A HAT & A HORSE. THEN YOU’LL BE A PROPER COWBOY 🤠🐎
you will need cellulose thinners to clean this out 2 pack filler isnt the best option outside i bet this repair lasted 3 years top as a painter by trade i normally use toupret wood repair but timberbuild is the best stuff if you want extra expense will last forever
Great vid! Realistic result, which is refreshing.
Good honest account and very helpful. Thanks.
WOW! Great video. I was actually looking for a video of someone using the expanding foam and applying wood filler over it. Wasn't sure if it was just some crazy idea I had that wouldn't work but this looks great! Cant wait to give it a go myself.
Hi!! No, you’re not crazy!! I’m not?! J.
Never use expanding foam, it absorbs moisture and holds it against the wood and rots it out faster
This was really interesting to watch.
Can anyone tell me, what to do in the early stages of wet wood rot? A small area at the bottom of my summer house has started to feel soft as a bucket was placed next to it. The cause of the problem has obviously been removed and I can't see any visible rot as it is beneath the painted surface, but I worry that it may get worse over time? Should I use something like the ronseal wood hardener over the top of the painted wood where I can feel it rotting?
Hello LMONKEY2 - I hope other folk will also help you with their ideas.
My offering is that if left it may well get worse in time and as is often said "a stitch in time saves nine" and summerhouse repairs don't come cheap. So, I think I would remove the painted surface first, then apply the hardener, and then repaint once you've followed the instructions for the Hardener. Season's Greetings from John
Hi there how is it going with the foam after 6 years? Did it prove long lasting?
Do you need to strip all peeling paint off first to bare wood before using this product?
One way I found was to drill a few holes into the painted wood, then using an ink filling syringe (minus the needle), squirted it into the holes to let it seep in and harden it. Then just fill in the holes.
Perhaps wet the putty knife blade before applying the filler. It makes the filler slide off the knife much easier.
THe intro music sounds much similar to the Halloween soundtrack :).
David Wikberg my thoughts exactly! 😂
Actually its Mike Oldfield's 'Secrets' from the Tubular Bells III - czcams.com/video/RVijHuYMp5M/video.html classic prog rock.
It's actually the exorcist
I made a table from palet woods can I use hardener to make wood stronger or what would you suggest
Thank you, this was very informative.
So your saying nobody will ever know about the bodies under the floor board I love the Amityville horror soundtrack at the end
Good job the filler worked.
Thanks for the clip. About to do our gate so will give the products a go. Cheers
I'm building a subwoofer box from mdf, unfortunately due to my own ineptitude and using power tools I have no place to I've ended up with a gap of about 3-4mm x about 4inches and 18mm deep.
Will this stuff work for my problem?
An excellent demonstration - thank you.
I'm having to build up the bottom legs of a number of MDF radiator covers (why are they all 82 cm high?) by about 7 cm. I was thinking of either using MDF or simply creating a former for a 2-part wood filler to create the extra high - I know this can be readily sanded down to a very smooth finish. I will be doing this before assembling them as they come in a flat-pack - any suggestions on the viability of using a former that will be easy to remove from the wood filler once it is dry?
Dear Barry - thank you for your helpful comment which I hope others will read when they've viewed. Regards from John
I would recommend car body filler rather than the Ronseal product, if it is being painted over it will be more than man enough for the job and much cheaper, it's a shame you didn't cover the wood hardener in more detail, but on the really bad wood before you scraped it all out.
You need to leave the brush in white spirit for sometime if you want to reuse it but probably no longer a good brush for normal painting anymore....
Using small bits of wood seems better than foam as the filler is designed to adhere to wood not squashy foam for large holes....
Reuse the dry stiff brush in the wood harder. It gets soft and useable almost immediately. Of course it needs to be dedicated to your wooh hardener
The foam is not sun friendly. Doesn' t llive too much exposed to the direct sunlight. Even being covered by a thin layer of ssomething (except somthing metalic, because it is absolutely opaque). I have a similar problem, but I dont like the idea to aply this foam.
The fillers I found to be very good, but the wet rot hardener did nothing worth talking about on the chipboard that I used it on. I found working wood glue into the damaged wood with a brush to be much more effective.
good god bodge it and scarper !!!!! just cut out the effected wood and replace with a section of hard wood or tantalised pine , then shape to size , expanded foam will absorb moisture and you will be back to square one al
I think here in the US things are cheaper. Everything with the word WOOD on it will cost more, just get the Bondo in the red gallon can. Couple of my projects take a whole gallon can or more althouigh I wanted to replace with wood but some cases not practical tearing everything down. If its structural than you do not have a choice. I don't know about using foam. That is at the intersection of filler, foam and wood where there are three expansion and contraction rates. Clean my small brush like yours with lacquer cleaner, an once should do it. BTW excellent job.
Heello Kimchee - thank you for your knowledgeable and helpful comment. Regards from John
Well, removing all compromised wood should be done first. Prep, to get a good base, is vital in any repair.
Can I use this to fill a rotted part of a teak garden bench?
Very informative and helpful. Thank you sir.
You are welcome
Can you show us how it's held up over these years?
Thanks for this video , you did a decent job I think .
Thank you too!
Thank you so much for informational video.
Thankyou!
Looks terrific 😀
Great job
Kinda looks like auto body repair putty. Used to use it to repair dorm furniture at the university where I worked.
Brilliant video
Gorgeous result
How can I moisten the unmixed high performance wood filler if it's a bit dried out?
Add some xylene.
Use better filling knifes. Those ones you've got is good for filling holes in the walls. With good knifes You can do it once and perfect.
Where can I buy this product
@@cliffmaier9074 where You live? What country? In uk You can buy it in every hardware store like: toolstation, screwfix, B&Q, leyland.
Excellent job
Wow, red is a very bold colour!! 😎 good video though!
Thanks! 😁
So it's basically a brown car body filler?
you can also use car body filler if you got some laying around saves buying the wood filler then lol
Great Tip!!
Did Exorcist do a good job?
Yes ...Very good I like this vid ,just about to use some of the wood hardener, so this has helped me a great deal thanks for this I think th music to go with it is weird ( in a good way) It's Mike oldfield ,from Tubular bells album .and it was used as as the music for the film The Excorsist. In the 70s , thanks again :-)
thank you for this!
great video
Great effort
Try soaking your brush in paint stripper mate see if it sorts brushes like that out
Jolly Good Show......................................
Many thanks! John
Excellent video
Thank you, Sir
Filler Foams a no no. If it’s that bad cut out the rotten wood and fill with treated wood.
great video. thanks for uploading.
You're welcome
Very useful. Thanks
Thank you Harmeet - regards from John
thank you so helpful.
Helpful video! Thanks
Looks nice!
Looks great!!
So helpful thank you
Thank you ABC ABC. Regards from John
Looks great 👍
Nice job!
should have done more prep mate,
useful vidoe, thanks but that red paint job burns my eyes
Very helpful, thanks!
Using foam to fill wood is like your doctor prescribing cigarettes to cure lung cancer.....
If you're going to bodge it anyway, at least graft in some treated wood to take up the lion's share of the filling. Cosmetic fixes do not last, that's why we don't use wallpaper to clad the outside of our houses!
Well done.