Kayak Trolling Motor PWM - Maximize Effective Trolling Range!
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- čas přidán 26. 05. 2020
- I use a kayak trolling motor PWM to maximize my kayak trolling motor battery and useful range. As part of your kayak trolling motor setup, you should consider installing a pulse width modulator. Doing a PWM motor control on the kayak is straightforward. Check out the entire series to see how I did the overall build.
Build: • Kayak Trolling Motor I...
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I just started setting up my first yak and I have to say your videos have given me the best instructional advice on CZcams thank you!!!
Great to hear!
Hi,
Where PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) shines is a lower speeds on your trolling motor. When you run your trolling motor wide open there is no difference between the old 5 speed unit and the PWM. If you are able to troll along at about half speed you will greatly increase the range you are able to travel. i.e. 4.5 amp draw at half speed instead of 28 amp draw at full speed.
I did a tank test on my older 2016 model year PWM unit which had no reverse on the PWM board. The newer ones now have this feature. I found that running my trolling motor at approximately half speed it drew approximately 4-5 amps and wide open it drew about 28 amps.
John
Wonderful! I cannot wait to use it!
Let's see a test comparing the battery vs the PWM😊
I did this one - czcams.com/video/iMOx2U4iR0g/video.html
@@KayakhacksFishing Thanks I will check it out 😁
Thanks for the details! Greatly appreciated.
Great job, Steve!
Nice demonstration. In middle of my second PWM build. I would defon consider getting the PWM box sealed, we also changed the toggle switch to a more robust waterproof switch which will also prolong the life of the PWM. Would suggest a little grease on the terminals of the PWM also as they rust and seize very quick. The writing in the boards for which wire is which is always suspect so don't be surprised if you cook at least one. Alot of guys extending the controls away from the PWM using Ethernet cable as it's also 8 core and will allow PWM to be stored inside.
Thanks for the tips!
Hey Steve, you might want to mention the amp ratings for the PWM someone would need to look for for various lb thrust trolling motors. I would think a 60amp PWM would cover most trolling motors. 30amps may work for some smaller (30lb) motors, but I'd recommend going larger to be on the safe side.
I work with PWM speed controllers in various applications. They are really a great way to control DC motors. Like you mentioned, you don't lose a lot of power to heat that you get with resistors and they also maintain more torque over a greater range of speed.
Great video, looking forward to seeing how this works out for you.
Good point. I had to look hard to find one that had more than 40A. Do you have a recommendation for a PWM? I am still concerned the unit I got was not actually a PWM
@@KayakhacksFishing I have never bought a PWM that is capable of dealing with that many AMPS so I can't make a recommendation on that based on any personal experience.
I tested one of mine with a meter and it shows full voltage when not connected to a motor and with the speed turned down. Then I hooked it up to a motor and rechecked the voltage and it shows over 2 volts. It shows that because the meter is averaging the full voltage pulses it outputs under a load and displays that average as the voltage reading.
That is a great approach
Thankyou, the Anderson connections are the way to go, see a lot of post were Kayakers go out in the middle of lake and PWM fails and have to paddle back, I’ll surely be rigging this way thanks from Aussie
My pwm box has two quick plugs, one input and one output. My battery is in a battery box with a female TRAC connector and the trolling motor has a male TRAC connector. If the pwm fails, I can unplug the motor from the pwm box and plug it direct into the battery box.
@@Canadarago czcams.com/video/D87I0wJf250/video.html just did My build today Cheers.
@@kwikflikzyakadventures3795 saw the video. Great job! I bought a 50 ah lithium battery and want to try it out with the pwm. Getting too old to drag around a 48 lb. 75ah. lead acid.
Awesome and helpful video!
Glad to hear it!
I put a pwm on my motor this winter. Works great. I installed the pwm inside the hull with the controls mounted on an ABS panel attached to the pwm.
Do you have a link to the PWM you used? I wonder if I was ripped off on what I bought.
@@KayakhacksFishing www.amazon.com/dp/B07GGP947C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share . This is the one I ended up with. I bought one off amazon for 14.99, but it didn't work. Returned it and got this one. Have had no problems with it so far.
Thanks
Uncle Bill Outdoors That’s the same one I’m using. Even though the max draw on my MK Turbo 65 is around 40 amps, I read that folks were having heat buildup using a 50 amp pwm. This one is rated for 60 continuous/100 surge, so greater overhead and less heat. I built the head unit into a Harbor Freight plastic ammo box as I try to use 8 gauge wire all the way through and the wire and connectors take up space.
Have you considered adding a dead-man switch for safety? I believe that if you added a normally closed switch to the center wire of the directional switch, it would kill power to the motor if you happened to go overboard. Based on past experience with powered equipment, I'm leery of a kayak motor without some sort of e-stop. I haven't turtled yet, but they say it's "when", not "if".
That's a great point. I'll figure something out
thanks. looks like your a Newport fan
lol! It was the most cost effective option!
Nice demonstration! I used an ammo box already water proof. And no need to drill air holes as it doesn’t get hot.
@SteveRuppert.. Ammo boxes protect against extreme heat from the outside , BUT the modulator is putting off heat which is going to trap that heat in your ammo box and melt everything C' mon Man..smh
Thank you for your answer! I have since found out that whatever DC Voltage put in to these PWM's will be the same going out. Cheers!
Thanks for the info!
Good stuff, Steve. We could talk for hours. I run an electric motorized kayak touring biz down in Florida about 200 days per year for the last 10 years and began using PWMs about 5 years ago and never looked back. I did switch from flooded lead acid batteries to LiPo4 lithium batteries which have come down in price a lot. I love the constant charge and they weigh a lot less. I would like to get the specifics on your PWM if possible. Thanks for a great video. Bill and Cathy
Here is the link to the one I used - it is currently unavailable - amzn.to/36VxauB
I wish I could afford one of those Lithium batteries! They are nice!
nice job
Never heard of a PWM before but it looks like I gotta get me one!
I hope they actually shipped me one... wonder about bad descriptions...
Funny that im doing the same, installing a pwm.
I just got my pwm in the mail i cant wait to wire it up.
Guess I have to go learn something new. I knew this technology back in my caving dats as Niteyze did a simular thing San the knob.
Nice job!! would like to see if you plan to do a comparison using and not using the modulator and determining the optimum for the modulator?
Interesting! I'll do that!
Well, I used a minn nota c2 30 lb on my ascend h10 hybrid kayak , same battery but a size 27 with 90 ah. 50 lbs. I stay on max majority of the time and then use lower speed occasionally. I get over 6 hour of use. Cheers.
Thanks for the confirmation!
Easy install...wudv liked to hear about your power savings expressed in on water usage time. That was part of your video's title.
Sorry - PWMs are well know to save power. I did do a real world test. Skip to the end in this video - czcams.com/video/iMOx2U4iR0g/video.html
Add a kill switch. Fun project.
Yes - I need one.
Can I have more detail on those quick connects. Also, if you connect directly to your battery the motor will instantly turn on so I suggest an on/off switch before the PWM so if the PWM fails you can still control the motor on/off.
You can still control the motor via the handle, so that's not an issue. I leave the both the motor and the PWM in the "off" position until ready to go. Here is the link to the quick connects - amzn.to/3gwWN7C
Great great video! I’ve been looking to build something like this. Do you have a video on how you attached the wires inside the control box of the trolling motor? I see the wires coming out from underneath.
The PWM is a separate unit. I just took the power wires coming out of the control head and hooked them to the PWM instead of a battery. Much easier than rewiring
Kayak Hacks Fishing Oh, no rewiring involved? Even better!! Thank you!
I'm loving watching you do your installation as I'm doing one myself, using pretty much the same components.
Lol
Followed your installation. Used my wife new tupperware.lol
Hey great vid. does it matter which way the motor control plus and minus wires go? thanks!
Yes, be sure you decode the chinese writing. The picture where I bought the PWM had it in english.
Great project. As an industrial electrician/electronics tech, I would like to add people will WANT their PWM 1.25-1.5 times larger than
their trolling motor max current to control heat/damage potential. I use the 1.5 factor all the time in my work even though NEC says 1.25
is enuff. My equipment DOESN'T FAIL unless something more drastic happens (that typically shouldn't)! The slight difference in price of
your install will payoff in higher reliability!
Wow! What a great tip! Thanks! I think I am good. This was a 60A and my max is 29. - I lucked out. But the next size motor up needs 55A and the 60A PWM would have toasted!
@@KayakhacksFishing yOU MAKE GREAT STRAIGHT FORWARD VIDEO'S. Actually, got my idea to use a PWM for my 'yak from you. weight is a major concern on small watercraft. utilizing power iz a PLUS! Thank you for your reply...it WILL benefit you.
Hey Hack, Thanks for all the great vids. My question is gauge wire should I use going to and coming from my pwm? Thanks
Use the same gauge as the trolling motor. Probably 10.
@@KayakhacksFishing Yes 30 minn endro, thanks
Has anyone done back to back comparisons running their trolling motor as is vw with a pwm to see how much gain on battery like you actually get?
Although not scientific, here was my test - czcams.com/video/iMOx2U4iR0g/video.html
@@KayakhacksFishing that was a great video, thanks.
what is the benefit of pwm in powersavings? how much more miles did you get?
Here is a subjective test I ran - czcams.com/video/iMOx2U4iR0g/video.html
I presume you are now using a lithium iron-phospate battery, perhaps the new 100AH "mini" options that hit the market recently?
I have not tried the mini options. I hope to get an offer soon. With my current 100ah, I no longer use the PWM
I used Minn Kota connectors but noticed if my PWM fails and I want to directly connect trolling motor to the battery the wire polarity (red positive will be connected to black negative on the Minn Kota connectors) will be reversed, have to switch posts on the connectors first, just a heads up. BTW I think it fried because I used the reverse on the trolling motor instead of leaving on speed five on trolling motor instead of using the reverse on the PWM and my have had a conflicting forward setting on the PWM.
Thanks for those tips!
So i can do this without taking trolling motor apart.... Now when i do this the trolling motor has to be on highest setting so when i use pwm it will work
I hope you saw the warning about Amazon/eBay PWMs. After having burnouts, I discovered they are only good for "brush" motors. Most trolling motors are brushless.
I Like your video descriptions & learned quite few good tips from you ! I'm assembling my old Motorguide 30 lb thrust with a DC Motor Speed Controller, 12-60V 80A DC PWM Motor Speed Controller Reversible Stepless Variable Speed Regulator. Now I'm wondering about going with a 24V power source. this Motorguide is built like a tank just wondering if I could safely run or ??
I would not do anything the specs do not support.
Thanks for the video.
Would it be possible to have the display showing the actual load draw instead of the percentage of the power being fed to the motor?
The load meter could show that. I will do that when I make another PWM video
Cool, thanks again.
great video man. So you only connect the power wires from the trolling motor to the box?
Right. And the battery to the other terminals on the box
@@KayakhacksFishing THANK YOU. I have water snake trolling motor and it has blue, green and yellow wires in it too, do those connect to anything?
@@F-N-C Wow.. I am not familar with that model. So you have 5 wires? Odd. You would think it would only have the two power wires. I wonder if those go to a speed controller?
I just had the pot on a 60 amp pwm fail. When I turn it on the motor goes to full speed but what I noticed was that this full speed was much faster than the full speed I was getting when the potentiometer worked properly. Do all pwms affect top speed performance?
That's a great question. Unfortunately, I do not know the answer.
Hello, thanks for your video. I am ready to convert my motor to my kayak. but I noticed that there are PMWs that are brushless or brushed. Does it matter? Thanks
My sense is brushless is best.
Sounds good. Do you leave your factory motor speed and direction controls on max forward. Please do a side by side with battery use data.
Yes, I have the motor on the high setting going forward. Good idea on the battery test.
for the cooling pwm speed controller,,,,,,, 2 pc cooling fans should help to keep the heat down,,,,,,,,one on top the other under neath
Wow... I did not know I needed that much - do they run on 12V?
yes they are 12volts
I would also put an extra switch between the pwm and the battery just to be shure nothing when't wrong
I didn't do 20 just three and out, early 70s. And hat off for anyone that did 20. Had uncle that did 28 yr he was a toe the line sob even out of the service lol
lol! The Army was our family business. Between my grandfather, Dad, brother and myself, we were in for 110 years.
@@KayakhacksFishing Both grand fathers WWI and one was also in WWII Battle of the Bulge. Sister in-law did the family tree she says we go back sometime before 1775. Almost every male in the family has done a tour in the service.
Your family is doing better than mine! We had a few gaps. Revolution, 1812, Mexican, both sides of Civil War, then a gap until WW1
Awesome build! Can you give me a list of materials and where you purchased them?
Steve
I looked back and the PWM I purchased is amzn.to/3rV3lEG . The metal connector and wood at the bottom of a throwaway plastic box were just scraps. I got the marine wire at a boat store - West Marine. Here is the link to the quick connect - czcams.com/video/RPSqaOa8l0Q/video.html
That said, I would not get this PWM. I looked at some of the recent reviews and the current model has issues.
Hi, Thank you for your video. You indicated that you installed a fuse / circuit breaker in the box. Can you share a link of the one you used? I would like to install one in my PWM box as well.
Mine came with the trolling motor. You can buy an inline breaker - amzn.to/33ZsXF2
@@KayakhacksFishing Thanks, I will check it out.
Since you went the way of the pwm you can get rid of the head on the trolling motor and just have the 2 wires and would look better
lol! Beyond my capability!
PWMs can fail. I would leave the head on (set to highest speed) and put a quick disconnect male on the trolling motor cable and a female on your battery box so you can bypass the pwm just in case - especially if you have a pwm fail on the water.
I got a Mighty Max 60AH battery(around $63.00) for mine, weight approx 23 Lbs.
Wow. Great deal. Do you have a link?
@@KayakhacksFishing got it on Amazon
Got it on Amazon
@@roberterwin9328 thx
Will a larger amp unit (say a 30amp pwm) operate a smaller motor like a 18 water snake?
Sure, the amps is just the max you can put through it.
Hello KHF! We are really enjoying your channel and are so excited for our new kayaks that are arriving in mid June. The channel has given us some great insight and fun planning our rigging as we wait for delivery. Not sure if this has been asked but how long can your kayak run configured with this motor with the PWM using a standard (car size) marine acid battery and if I modify my set up to half that amperage size would I get the few hours of power that I need. We are in AZ and so far we would not need more than a couple hours of power in total for the lakes we run. Also what about a small solar panel that could trickle charge the battery on the lake when it was not being used it could be fastened to the lid on top of the box for the battery?
I suspect the solar panel would not produce what is consumed - but I am not an expert there. In terms of time, the amp rating of the motor is the full power rating. if you run at 1/2 speed, you should get more hours. So a battery rated at 2 hours for full speed should approximately 4 hours at half speed plus or minus. And, if you pedal at the same time (you will not have to pedal as hard) you can extend the life even farther. Yesterday, I did 5 miles in my kayak using pedal/motor and the battery was at 25% charge when I finished. I had to run at full speed for around 30 minutes to fight the current back to the launch.
How do you handle the weight distribution? We have a Hobie PA17t (which is big, wide, and heavy) and works well with a trolling motor. But the built-in battery mount is in the back and when I use a 36lb or 55lb in the back, the yak does "wheelies" on choppy ocean bay water. It also tends to noticeably lean to the side with the motor. Short of losing weight, I'm not sure how to make the system more level.
By putting it right behind my seat, the battery sits in the middle of the boat. I have room in the tankwell to move it left or right to balance with the motor
Do you have the link for the fuse?
Sure - amzn.to/3I6WIFc
@@KayakhacksFishing what size fuse did you use?
@@oakgarage3834 My motor required a 40 amp, so that is what I used. I also matched the wire on the fuze to the gauge of the motor.
@@KayakhacksFishing thank you
Just curious if having the PWM not as close as possible to the battery may cause failure due to (electrical) hammer effect. PWM is high speed switching on and off, which among other things causes the excessive heat. Any extra capacitors needed, or suggestions for long life of the controller?
I do not have the electrical engineering background to comment on that. Good question
I did the exact same set up as you. Bought the same pwm you recommended/linked. Minn kota motor. Problem I'm having is when I turn it on, the led screen says 22% no matter how low or how high I turn the dial. The motor spins at that slow speed as well. Does not spin any faster or slower when I turn the dial up and down. Have any idea what my issue is? I was using my 12v 10amh battery just to test it.
I can only think of two issues. The first (obvious) is the PWM is defective. The other is the battery is not holding a 12v charge. Did you put a voltmeter on the battery to check it?
I'm hoping you will help me. I have your exact set up on my kayak project---exactly as you have yours with same PWM. My Question is: I want to feed it with 18 Volt battery packs and want to know if that will end up changing the voltage that arrives at my 12 volt motor and damage something? My PWM is rated 12/24/36/48V (in?) but I cannot find any documents as to what comes out. Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated.
I'm sorry, but I can't help. I am not an electronics expert.
Where did you purchase the “Quick Connects” ?
Like usual great attention to details in video. Very easy to follow 👍🎣
thanks! I got mine from Amazon - amzn.to/3gPSFQB
@@KayakhacksFishing Thank you for sharing 👍🎣
Are the original switches on the motor left untouched? If so, do you set them to forward and speed 2 and leave them there?
You set them to the highest forward speed and leave it there.
What are the amp draws for each speed without the PWM?
Then what are the amp draws with the PWM (i.e 20 / 40 / 60 / 80 / 100 duty cycle)?
Unfortunately, I no longer have the PWM. But, I did do this test with a meter that might answer some of your questions. czcams.com/video/HR_1zpGoVyY/video.html
13.00 for the PWM and 20.00 for my box and I get over 15 hrs on a 101 ah.
Can you share a link to the PWM you used?
Robert whats the lb thrust rating of your tolling motor?
I'm about to wire up my PWM, but I'm not clear on where the fuse is installed. Does it go in-line with the positive motor wire, so that if it trips then the positive circuit to the motor is disconnected?
Yes, put it on the positive. Good luck. I hope your PWM lasts longer than mine did.
I see you were in the 1/7th infantry so was i.
I was in 2/41FA. It was the direct support arty for the 3rd Bde of 3 ID. My last year in the 3 ID I was the Bde FSO for the 3rd Bde and, at the time, it had 1/7 IN, 1/4 IN and 4-64 AR. My hat is off to anyone who served in the last 20 years... very rough time to be in the Army.
Just wondering if you've gauged how much more runtime you'd actually get due to the PWM?
Hard to say since it depends on how long you go full speed vs a moderated push. Maybe 50%?
My pwm has been having overheating issues. Have you had any issues with overheating, and how did u fix it?
No problems so far, but I have plenty of ventilation
Not sure why, I have had two PWM’s & can not get them to work very long.
First one popped as soon as I powered it up. Second one work out of the box. Then installed into a control box & it would not work after that. No pop no smoke just no anything. Hooked them up exactly the same. Any suggestions?
From seeing what other have said, it appears the quality on these can vary. Did you make sure the PWM supported the maximum Amps produced by the motor? That would be the only thing I can think of that would cause a pop.
The last PWM was replace by Amazon. I hooked it up just as I did with the other two & this one seems to be workings correctly. Thank you for your response.
Tight lines!
how much more efficient is the pwn compared to the factory system?? how much more run time are you getting??
It manages the power better. I am getting at least 25% more runtime.
How did you get the led voltage thing to stay in place?
I carefully cut out the hole to be just a touch smaller and jammed it in.
@@KayakhacksFishing just saw this message. Not sure how I missed it before. It was one of my questions. Thanks.
Nice video, will this PWM work with a brushless motor ?
I do not know.
Read through comments and didn't see it asked..do you run a fish finder as well? I'm reading ALOT of people have major interference issues when running a PWM and a fish finder. Wondering if you've experienced it, and what you did to combat it
I used to have a side imaging fish finder but gave it to my brother since I fish in shallow water. I use the Deeper Sonar now... pretty much just to find the channels in the bays I fish in. I have not used it with the PWM. I'll have to check that out.
I bought two of these controllers and made a similar set up. I can not get it to work though. I have voltage going into the controller but nothing coming out. The number display shows up and works properly and so does the switch and knob. I’ve tested them with my volt meter. Current going in to the controller from my battery and zero current coming out. I bought two controllers and tested the other one and well and nothing. What am I missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
The only thing I can think of is the PWM is defective. There is no internal switch on these things.
@@KayakhacksFishing thank you! That’s the only think I could come up with as well. I was just praying I was wrong. Guess I’ll try to return them
@@devinspaugh1922 I think that's your only choice... you checked everything.
I've always wonder if you could explain what percentage of battery you save if you running the trolling motor at 50% power, what are the amps drawn with and without a pwm Both running at 50%? i know at 100% power they both draw the same amount of power but the pwm its supposed to save battery so at 50% power how much power or amps are you saving, hopefully you understand what im trying to say .
I think it does. Here is a video I made about that - czcams.com/video/HR_1zpGoVyY/video.html
So you no longer control the speed on the handle of the trolling motor? And would you mind sharing the cost?
Right. The speed is controlled via the knob. The PWM is the most expensive component and cost $32. The quick connects cost $13.
@@KayakhacksFishing do you have a link for the PWM?
@@peterpham4846 Sorry, the one I used is no longer available.
It's been a year. How long has battery life been extended? How far and for how much time have you ran it?
I ended up not using the motor much at all. I did do this test early on - czcams.com/video/iMOx2U4iR0g/video.html
Thank you!
Do you have an amazon link to the pwm you used. Thanks!
Sure - amzn.to/3cpAlhf
How well did it work? Did it increase range?
Yes... as best as I can tell. Video coming showing the difference.
@@KayakhacksFishing maybe a water tank test, would be hard to tell on the water.
hi this is good setup, but I have a question. how to you control or change the direction? you have to use one hand to hold the handle to control the direction, and another hand to control the speed?
(before you just use one hand on the handle to control direction and speed) if could put this PWM inside the head, use one hand to control speed and direction. would be perfect. please advise. thanks
I lock the motor in place pointing straight back. I control the speed with the knob... it is in front of my seat. I have rudder handles to do steering. There is not a lot of manipulation of the speed once set.
@@KayakhacksFishing thanks for your quick reply and you setup. if there is some PWM can put inside of the head-handle. (same as original SW inside the box,
so you can control the speed and change the direction use one hand (like before) that's would be perfect. (do you have any suggestion?0 thanks again
@@HOLYCOWNIPPLESS lol! Mounting it in the handle is beyond my skill set!
@@KayakhacksFishing I am thinking is ether the PWM manufacture design a models can put inside the head and adjust speed using the handle (like the old switch). Or if we could make another wood or plastic (hard and strong) box with long bar or stick as handle, put PWM inside box. And make that box with 2 holes. One hole for turn-on-off switch. And one hole for adjusting for speed button. And replace the existing head. (Btw. I have exactly same as your setup. But is not convenient because have to use 2 hands to control). Thanks again.
@@HOLYCOWNIPPLESS Good luck!
You still have the trolling motor controls handle in place. did you rewire it or just have the control handle in a running position when you showed us how the pwm worked? Most of the videos i see that they take the switch out?
I leave the handle in speed position 5 and the PWM controls everything - speed as well as forward/reverse
How much longer would the motor run?
I intend to find out!
@@KayakhacksFishing
Seeing the before and after would be nice. Give people some info to see if they think it's worth it.
What gage wire are you using?
I was using 10 gauge to match the motor
I got lithium.
I would have preferred that!
About to get all of my wiring done. Can you do a follow up with the bypass of the pwm?
It's easy, just directly connect the trolling motor to the battery using a quick connect.
@@KayakhacksFishing I guess mine aren't as close so I'll have to do some mods in case of failure. Thanks
You can use marine wire to get additional distance. Just put quick connects in place of the splices.
Are you worried about moisture?
Getting on the battery? Not really, I do not reach around to my right to get things from the tank well.
I probably missed it but where do you set the trolling motor controls ? ..... ebay ... $15 !!!!
I have seen them on both eBay and Amazon.
Been using mine for years, and I get by with a 40ah battery: czcams.com/video/TnpHlmpncJk/video.html
Lol! I saw your video before I did mine. One of the comments talked about overheating and that is why I did the holes. Do you have a link to your PWM? I wonder if I got ripped off on what I bought.
@@KayakhacksFishing Got mine on eBay, and it was too long ago to see it in my Purchase History, but it was just like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/112632201224
@@KayakhacksFishing I found the email from my eBay order back in August of 2017. I paid $12.63 shipped (from Hong Kong).
thanks!
Don’t use these cheap Chinese PWM Controllers , they will fail under load, like weed on prop or shallow water. Electronics and water, especially salt water do not mix no matter how hard you try to keep water out of these boxes , it will always find a way in. Better to use a mechanical / resistor speed control , these are more reliable and will offset any advantage to battery range.
When you are out fishing you want to get home without rowing too much. Also I prefer to use Lead Acid Battery over Lion. Lead Acid Battery will still turn prop even with low state of charge Lion Battery will shut down at low state of charge then you start rowing.
Do you have a link to one you can share?