Interesting video! I remember similar John Deere models when a child in 1960s. They were sent to the uk under the wartime lend-lease scheme. Usually 4 wheeled versions, they did good service for the War Ag ploughing etc.
I had an “A” identical to your “B” with the exception of the front wheels not having spokes and the “A” had compression release valves. The place I bought it from replaced them with solid rims cause the old rims were rusted beyond repair. It was a great little tractor though.
1953 minnesota I was 8 years old. I was told when you are big enough to start the 38 model B. I would be taught how to operated it and that went for everything on the farm. no petcocks on the model B. yes, I did it and on to a happy and successful life. the tires were firestone natural rubber.
I've got a number of 2 cylinder John Deere tractors, including an unstyled G that looks about the same as yours, but twice the size. It seems like your throttle is set way too slow for starting. On my G, If the carb and magneto are good, it will "pop" on the first pull. Then after about 5 or 6 more pulls with the choke off, it's running. It took me a long time to understand that you don't need to spin the flywheel fast. On my G, it's barely moving when the impulse trips, but that's all it needs. I would strongly suggest getting the air cleaner hooked up as there's a lot of dirt in the air. Finally, if you don't have an owner's manual, you can still get them from Deere. There's a lot of good information in there. Good luck!
the way to start the tractor. put the choke on full with ignition OFF. turn it over once. shut off the choke, turn on the ignition and just barely crack the throttle. crank it over and it starts. if you get it flooded like you have it will be a long day. the carb is way to rich. a cold manifold for gas only and high compression inserts help.
@@etherbanditsgarage9313 it has a magneto shorting kill switch. most farmers mount a kill switch near the throttle lever for easy access. or just be really fast shutting the choke off.
I remember going to a rally in about 1978/9. There was a JD Model B there. I think cantankerous is probably as good a word as any. The owner began starting it up at the same time as the rest of us. He was still in the paddock after we'd all finished the parade and the "meet n' greet" in the main arena, and came back to the paddock. That tractor was only 42 years old at that time, and we're now 46 years later than that. I think an 88 year old tractor has a right to be a bit cantankerous!
I have a 1936 Model B completely identical to this one and I've discovered some things that people will and will not tell you about. Your carburetor has 2 screws on it, the one closer to the fuel line being the idle screw and the one closer to the exhaust pipe being the load screw. Each screw is able to fine-tune its respective circuit. I don't know if you have figured this out yet, as it has been 6 months, but your engine should still run even with the throttle completely closed. This is due to the idle circuit. When the engine was running, I noticed that the throttle butterfly is open about halfway, and your load screw looks a bit far out. The engine is running that way because its either getting too much gas or not enough spark, and it sounds like too much gas. It's a rather simple tune to perform, yet nobody will tell you how to properly do it, so I'll try to explain in the best way I know. Tighten both screws all the way and take them back out 1 to 2 turns. Push it to full throttle and mess with the load screw first. If you turn either screw to the right, it will run better, because it restricts the flow of fuel through each circuit. Then put the engine just above idle and mess with the idle screw until it sounds nice. You can then bring the engine down to idle and set your idle speed. Once again, tightening the idle screw will raise your idle RPM and loosening it will drop it. Oh, and start it without the choke, let me explain. Assuming your carb is clean enough, set your idle screw 1/2 to 1 turn back from tight. The idle circuit does a way better job at controlling the vapor going into the cylinders and does not add nearly as much. For some reason it simply works better and can get your engine started within 1 to 2 cranks. So to wrap that up, set your screw appropriately and keep the engine at idle until it starts. In the cold, its best to quickly increase throttle once it starts firing. Thats all that is necessary to know for not. It looks great for what its probably been through, good luck with it. If I made any of that complicated you can shoot me an email on this account. Once again, good luck.
Agree with a few points here, I have the same tractor as in the video. I make one revolution with choke on, then turn the choke completely off and it starts reliably. I could hear in your video the engine was flooded. I’m not criticizing your procedure at all, just trying to pass along what I’ve leaned to a fellow tractor guy. Keep up the good work.
I am surprised, when you said that this tractor left the factory on rubber tires. John Deere did not offer rubber tires until 1939, and then only as an option, In 941 rubber tires became standard equipment and steel wheel were an option. Also 1941 was the first year of the six speed transmission.
You are right. The rims and tires are worth more than the tractor. I have seen the rims go for 1200.00 each in good shape. I have a fully mechanically restored 39 B I have between eight and nine thousand dollars in. Worked on it for seven years...
@@jodyreeder4820 And not being able to afford a new one... People don't realize how tough the farmers of the past had it... These days it's a bit better but not much.... When I was a kid the neighbor farmed with a 730 JD Diesel... That was about the biggest, newest, fanciest tractor in the entire County... Anyway, the Pony went bad and the only way he could start it was by coasting her down a hill.... Sometimes towing it back up with the pickup truck multiple times if it was cold out....
Ah.....the beautiful sounds of the Johnny Popper!!
Interesting video! I remember similar John Deere models when a child in 1960s. They were sent to the uk under the wartime lend-lease scheme. Usually 4 wheeled versions, they did good service for the War Ag ploughing etc.
Wix 33039 filter can be set inside the sediment bowl. It replaces the screen and eliminates the need for an inline filter.
Noted I will definitely be ordering some
@@etherbanditsgarage9313 I've been trying push demand up so they keep making them.
I had an “A” identical to your “B” with the exception of the front wheels not having spokes and the “A” had compression release valves. The place I bought it from replaced them with solid rims cause the old rims were rusted beyond repair. It was a great little tractor though.
I had to do quite a bit of repair to the front rims to make them work.
Good video. Sure liked that you let the viewers know what your doing.
1953 minnesota I was 8 years old. I was told when you are big enough to start the 38 model B. I would be taught how to operated it and that went for everything on the farm. no petcocks on the model B. yes, I did it and on to a happy and successful life. the tires were firestone natural rubber.
Awesome
Your right, i did want to see your video. I love it brother. Im 37, an ive had tractor fever since i can remember. Good job dude
I've got a number of 2 cylinder John Deere tractors, including an unstyled G that looks about the same as yours, but twice the size. It seems like your throttle is set way too slow for starting. On my G, If the carb and magneto are good, it will "pop" on the first pull. Then after about 5 or 6 more pulls with the choke off, it's running. It took me a long time to understand that you don't need to spin the flywheel fast. On my G, it's barely moving when the impulse trips, but that's all it needs. I would strongly suggest getting the air cleaner hooked up as there's a lot of dirt in the air. Finally, if you don't have an owner's manual, you can still get them from Deere. There's a lot of good information in there. Good luck!
Awesome my Dad had a 36 yours really looks just like the one we had.
Enjoy dude
the way to start the tractor. put the choke on full with ignition OFF. turn it over once. shut off the choke, turn on the ignition and just barely crack the throttle. crank it over and it starts. if you get it flooded like you have it will be a long day. the carb is way to rich. a cold manifold for gas only and high compression inserts help.
How do you turn the ignition off on a tractor like this it dosent have a key
@@etherbanditsgarage9313 it has a magneto shorting kill switch. most farmers mount a kill switch near the throttle lever for easy access. or just be really fast shutting the choke off.
@@etherbanditsgarage9313 Choke it to death.
Nice tractor but you don’t just stand and crank the flywheel you slowly crank it until you feel the compression then the sling it over
I remember going to a rally in about 1978/9. There was a JD Model B there. I think cantankerous is probably as good a word as any. The owner began starting it up at the same time as the rest of us. He was still in the paddock after we'd all finished the parade and the "meet n' greet" in the main arena, and came back to the paddock.
That tractor was only 42 years old at that time, and we're now 46 years later than that. I think an 88 year old tractor has a right to be a bit cantankerous!
Yeah but once you get them straightened out they are kinda fun
Nice John Deere dude
I have a 1936 Model B completely identical to this one and I've discovered some things that people will and will not tell you about.
Your carburetor has 2 screws on it, the one closer to the fuel line being the idle screw and the one closer to the exhaust pipe being the load screw. Each screw is able to fine-tune its respective circuit. I don't know if you have figured this out yet, as it has been 6 months, but your engine should still run even with the throttle completely closed. This is due to the idle circuit.
When the engine was running, I noticed that the throttle butterfly is open about halfway, and your load screw looks a bit far out. The engine is running that way because its either getting too much gas or not enough spark, and it sounds like too much gas.
It's a rather simple tune to perform, yet nobody will tell you how to properly do it, so I'll try to explain in the best way I know. Tighten both screws all the way and take them back out 1 to 2 turns. Push it to full throttle and mess with the load screw first. If you turn either screw to the right, it will run better, because it restricts the flow of fuel through each circuit. Then put the engine just above idle and mess with the idle screw until it sounds nice. You can then bring the engine down to idle and set your idle speed. Once again, tightening the idle screw will raise your idle RPM and loosening it will drop it.
Oh, and start it without the choke, let me explain.
Assuming your carb is clean enough, set your idle screw 1/2 to 1 turn back from tight. The idle circuit does a way better job at controlling the vapor going into the cylinders and does not add nearly as much. For some reason it simply works better and can get your engine started within 1 to 2 cranks.
So to wrap that up, set your screw appropriately and keep the engine at idle until it starts. In the cold, its best to quickly increase throttle once it starts firing.
Thats all that is necessary to know for not. It looks great for what its probably been through, good luck with it. If I made any of that complicated you can shoot me an email on this account.
Once again, good luck.
Agree with a few points here, I have the same tractor as in the video. I make one revolution with choke on, then turn the choke completely off and it starts reliably. I could hear in your video the engine was flooded. I’m not criticizing your procedure at all, just trying to pass along what I’ve leaned to a fellow tractor guy. Keep up the good work.
I am surprised, when you said that this tractor left the factory on rubber tires. John Deere did not offer rubber tires until 1939, and then only as an option, In 941 rubber tires became standard equipment and steel wheel were an option. Also 1941 was the first year of the six speed transmission.
You need to do a little bit more research
You are right. The rims and tires are worth more than the tractor. I have seen the rims go for 1200.00 each in good shape. I have a fully mechanically restored 39 B I have between eight and nine thousand dollars in. Worked on it for seven years...
Hopefully more content on this tractor to come soon
A little system cleaning, etc and should be running great
You can get your right shoulder operated on in about a year or you can open the pitcocks and crank it easily.
where are the petcocks this tractor never had any from the factory
No petcock compression release.
I want the same !
Instead of pulling our guts out, we used to just park them on a hill.... Ha!....
Works when batteries bad too
@@jodyreeder4820 And not being able to afford a new one... People don't realize how tough the farmers of the past had it... These days it's a bit better but not much.... When I was a kid the neighbor farmed with a 730 JD Diesel... That was about the biggest, newest, fanciest tractor in the entire County... Anyway, the Pony went bad and the only way he could start it was by coasting her down a hill.... Sometimes towing it back up with the pickup truck multiple times if it was cold out....
She didn’t like that I don’t believe.
Start it with the throttle 1/2 way back. Should start easier
Thanks for the advise these old tractors definitely have there quirks
Bars leak!!
Something ain't right, shouldn't take that much cranking to start it! I had an h jd that started on two twist of the flywheel everytime!!
In the beginning after that have sat of a long time or been apart it will take a little bit usually
Still needs a lot. Engine not running right.
You are welcome. We had one on our farm. Spent many an hour on that thing. Hope all goes well with it.
Grab a strap and pickup