Does Vibration Work? Let's Find Out!
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Bubbles are the bone of resin casting. Vibration is a popular technique for removing bubbles but is it really effective? In this video I test vibration and vibration combined with pressure to see if it helps.
I also demonstrate why vibration is useless against the biggest source of bubbles: resin foaming.
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Vibrating or knocking is a left over technique from plaster mould making, somehow it has found its way into Silicone mould making.
Rocking and knocking can work well, no doubt.
And chocolate making. Similar viscosity I guess. :)
Yeah, the real difference is that with plaster or chocolate, you're knocking out bubbles introduced by mixing. With resin, the bubbles are being continuously produced by a chemical reaction. You can't just shake 'em loose and call it a day.
Great video! You consistently test theories that bounce around in makers heads and show all of the processes and even throw in variables. Love every single one of your videos!
Thanks Brice!
You do make me chuckle Robert. I love your sense of humour, and your sense of fun during your experiments. I'm not a model maker but I always drop by to see what you are doing.
Glad you enjoy the videos Jenny. Thanks!
Mastering the process thru experience and sharing your knowledge is gold!
When pouring it on a vibrator you normally pour at an angle and tilt, and do so quite slowly. That said, that's for pouring yellow gypsum into dental alginate. For a dental model.
This is why pressure pots are industry standard.
They are not cheap to manufacture.
They are not efficient to use.
They come with a whole host of limitations.
Despite thier faults, they still remain the best tool for the job.
Thank you Bob. This is a very important video.
The next video in production is why I don’t use vacuum to cast resin into molds.
High pours have been the only solution i have found that eliminate bubbles...if not using a pressure pot/vaccum chamber
yes but these work only in open molds
Same. On two part molds brushing on a coat layer before pouring the actual cast can work, too.
@@the_Dogpacker I have yet to try that myself BUT will be doing it here in the future...i work in alot of mediums..from latex to silicone
Thanks for this, I just bought a gallon set of resin. I wasn't sure how to keep the foaming down but this makes a lot of sense. Thank you for de-mystifying resin casting. Love your stuff!
Thanks for watching!
I de-gas my silicone AND use a fibrating table when I make silicone block molds. Works like a charm!
this is cooool a direct response to ours comments. hugs Robert!!!
Thanks for sharing Robert, I'm glad I finally saw this hashed out in a video.
Excellent! Thank you so much! I degas. Then vibrate to aid the resin to travel through out the mold faster. I then put it in my pressure pot.
I recommend the commenters that talk about "armchair internet expertise" watch "You want me to cast what?" again, if they ever did.
I find it interesting so many people make extreme statements "this method will never replace this other method" as a response. Which is disingenuous ("it never worked for me").
When some commenters are making an inquisitive comment like "I wonder if this will work", it is with the intention of "will vibration work, augmenting the pressure chamber". Just as you did initially with this part - augmenting the use of the pressure chamber and painting/brushing it on before hand.
Thank you for demonstrating both.
Thinking about this in a logical way🧐, I would say there are many variables………firstly the height of pour as it’s important to stretch the liquid (and the properties of resin does this well) to stretch out the gas. Next, the frequency (Hz) of the vibration will play a part, as too much vibration will introduce more bubbles, and the frequency and amplitude needs to allow the bubble to rise in the liquid and break the bubbles surface tension. Too much vibration, and the bubbles changes shape, allowing them to move through the liquid at different angles and hence not rising to the surface. Also, the surface of the liquid bouncing around randomly can introduce more bubbles. I could go on but it could become very boring🥱. Personally, degassing using a vacuum chamber, as you’ve rightly said, is best. Love your videos, so interesting, full of wit and experience🙏 .
I worked in a shop that made the trophy stands for the NCAA, BassMasters, Heisman, etc... I always vacuumed the mixture before and after putting the "kicker" in (the catalyst that hardens the epoxy resin). Then, I poured it onto a giant glass table. I would turn on the air compressed vibrators while I created my designs with compressed air or a paddle. The vibrations almost always got the bubbles out, as long as you didn't put too much "kicker" in. Too much meant it would harden before the bubbles were out. It was a dance of ounces, humidity, temperature, time mixing, and base thickness. You always had to pay attention.
It's just the middle of the video now, but I have to say people think of resin as resin and don't get all the variety of materials. Robert is using polyurethane, People mostly use epoxy. With epoxy you can remove bubbles before pouring. Epoxy is much thicker and will hold the bubbles of mixing way longer. While polyurethane is thinner and don't have that much of bubbles due to mixing. What I would suggest on this delicate thing is talcum powder. And what I personally do with my molds, as I don't have vents, I use vacuum to fill my molds and suck air out of it and let resin flow in. This will even catch some undercut areas and just leaves small enough bubbles for the pressure pot to catch.
How do you fill a mold with vacuum? Do you pour resin in a vacuum chamber?
@@plastikbeau3695 My molds have larger filling funnels that are capable to hold all the resin for the cast. I do gaming dice, so its small amounts. Then I place the molds inside my pressure pot, put a vacuumchamber lid on and pull the vacuum. This sucks the air out of the mold, then I release the vacuum and the air flowing back in pushes the material in the molds. I repeat this until no bubbles come out the mold and then I put the pressure pot lid on and pressurize the pot to get the last bubbles caught.
Robert, clearly you were vibrating too much, or too little, or too fast, or too slow. Your decades of real-world experience is no match for armchair internet expertise.
You got that right! 😀
You called it. I've seen 3 or 4 already.
:D For real!
Robert, my man... you forgot to TAP-BANG-TAP-TAP-BANG *while* vibrating it.
;)
@@TheCrafsMan How could I forget something that obvious! 😳😭😬🤪
I’d be interested to see vibration vs sitting out without pressure or vibration. I work on a small scale as a hobby and can’t afford a pressure pot right now. I’ve used a sonicator to degas solutions in a chemistry lab, so I was hoping vibration (though way less powerful than a sonicator) would be better than nothing.
This is such an awesome channel! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
My intuition from having studies nursing at university is that shaking/vibrating makes little sense, you'd just break up bubbles in several ones. With syringes we dislodge bubbles with clearly directed knocks, with a pen. But we can also see the fluid we're working with, and even the thickest solutions aren't as thick as curing silicone.
Yes, vibration has never worked for me.
Thank you. I was finding vibrating resin to be little help, and I thought it was just me. I do have to say, in the days before I had a vacuum chamber, I felt vibrations helped with silicon pours. Of course, that could have just been my perception.
okay, this answers my previous question - as per your heading. need to get me one of those pressure tanks
I only use 1 part molds and cast 2" mini figures, but as I pour the resin I usually stop 2-3 times and smack the bottom a bit. Near the top, occasionally I see a few bubbles rise out. Then I throw it in the pressure pot. Perfect cast near every time. If I don't do any tapping, sometimes I'll catch a small bubble in a nook or cranny somewhere (usually in between the legs). I normally use smooth-cast 45D which is very low viscosity for the first 5 minutes or so.
I would recommend a couple of solutions to the mix (pun intended 😜).....1. Add some type of dampening material to the platform, like craft foam....2. Install a clamp system to hold mold or other object in place during process
What definitive results! Like others, I'd love to see a similar test with the classic talcum powder dusting.
Good idea! I will add it the list.
For all those people who ask about removing moisture from the resin you can do it in a number of ways, the best solution is to not get it wet in the first place! This is best achieved by remembering to close your containers after use and buying resin in volumes which are appropriote to your usage level, but I get its cheaper to buy in volume! If you do have larger containers the following can be used to keep them dry (as used industrially) you can fit a tap and an air bleed to your container the tap is under the resin level and the air bleed replaces the air in the container so you dont cause a vacuum inside the vessel, the important thing here is the air bleed this needs to only allow in dry "air" there are 2 ways of achieving this the best it to connect the bleed to a cylinder of dry air or even better nitrogen. If that is not possible then a cylinder (much like the exhaust muffler on Rob's pressure pot) filled with dessicant gel (regularly replaced) attached to the bleed will help dry the air on its way in. In general these methods are used on the industrial scale and in most instances are not suitable for the home user to impliment (you would be better off just buying resin in smaller bottles or buying in large and on first opening transfering into smaller appropriote containers to minimise the number of openings).
If however your resin is wet you can remove the moisture in a couple of ways
1. With a vacuum but you will need to have it under vacuum for a long time (hours) to get it dry enough to remove the need to cast using a pressure pot. Heating the resin or stirring it while under vacuum will speed up the process but heated vacuum mixers are not cheap!
2. You can add a chemical drying agent. The most efficient of these are what we (resin formulators) refer to as molecular sieves they come in a few different forms such as beads, fine powders, and pastes to name a few. All work by chemically binding with the water and in doing so preventing it from reacting with the isocyanate in the hardener. This binding process is very quick but the diffusion of the water through the resin is relatively slow, so once again you add the molecular sieve and then leave the resin for hours in a sealed container. Once again heat and aggitation will help speed up the process.
The benefit of a chemical agent over the vacuum is that if you add it to your main containers in excess it will continue to dry your resin after every time you use it. However, even if you do this to reduce your moisture you will still get better castings by curing under pressure, as it will help minimise bubbles trapped in mould cavities as well, not just solve the foaming issues.
Hey Chris! Thanks so much for the detailed info about keeping resin dry! Over the years I jumped through many of the hoops that you describe and have settled on a simple solution for me that works: Keep the resin containers closed tight and pressure cast the resin. The main reason I use pressure pots is to suppress resin foaming. I rely on proper venting to remove the air from the mold cavity.
For rotational molding I buy fresh resin for each project and charge it to the client. That way the resin doesn’t foam and the castings come out fine.
Looking forward to the comments on this one. Wonder if they’ll watch the whole video first.
Maybe some people mixed up the vibration thing with the vacuum pressure? I remember from my course that thing could vibrate a little with the engine (at least ours did, it was old) and if you've only seen that part on a video without explanation it could look like it perhaps..? Wild guess tho. In our course the only thing we "vibrated" was shaking it yourself when we did plaster casts, but that was more shake & rotate to make sure it got into all the nooks and crannies. Great videos! :>
I think the shaking and rotating is where this comes from, if the plaster is getting into all the nooks and crannies then the air isn't there, so I guess people are applying the same logic to resin casting
Great stuff as always.
For tricky molds that like to trap bubbles I find that pouring some talc in the mold and then clearing it out with an air compressor helps tremendously. It breaks the surface tension and it helps the resin get drawn into any trouble spots. Not sure if you do this or not as I haven't seen you do it in any videos that I have seen.
What is talc exactly? Is there a video or paper that explains this method in detail?
@@AJ-le5lx Talc or talcum powder or baby powder.... You basically pour it in your molds and shake them until it covers the entire surface. You then use an air compressor or hair dryer to blow out the excess talc. This fine layer breaks the surface tension on the mold and the resin is drawn to the surface because the resin wants to absorb the talc.
@@fingsandstuff Does the leftover talc, even if it's a fine layer/sprinkle, not create clumps when mixing with the resin?
@Zakia Khwaja no, the layer is so fine it is absorbed by the resin...
So far the best way I have found to avoid bubbles (this is for Epoxy resin, not sure if it works on urethane) is to pour side A and B in one of those vertical clear plastic packs you can buy a hundred of for less than a dolar, then twist the opening to not let any air pass through it, you suish it to mix it with your free hand, ensuring both parts are equally combined (for some reason, probably the air pressure, mixing this way incorporates almost no air bubbles). Then you either cut or pinch one of the corners of the pack ensuring the opening is as small as posible.
When I pour it into the mold that way the only times I get air bubbles it's because of trapped air due to not leaving room for vents .
I know this is old, but if anyone by any chance knows...what clear vertical packs do you mean? I'm trying to visualise it but not getting what you mean.
@@Rose_Castle I was talking about those thin, clear plastic sleeves like the ones you use to pack your fruits/vegetables in the supermarket. But smaller and with a vertical profile (so there's enough room to twist the opening to close it)
@@elpretender1357 ahhh, thanks!
A ziploc bag?
Vibration is really only useful for large open topped molds using epoxy resins.
For example, you would use it for something like an epoxy granite or similar mineral epoxy casting.
Nice to see what happens, if you don't use a pressure pot. That are pretty many bubbles that were not caught by pouring. ^_^
Nice video!
to remove bubbles from viscous liquid you need much higher frequency of vibration. about 9000-10000rpm on vibration motor.
it's not about amplitude but frequency. concrete vibrators are 140 to 210 Hz for example.
I use epoxy resin. I heat it up with a heatgun before I pour into the mold. It helps.
vibration also causes the flexible mold seams to flex and leak a bit of resin where it shouldn't go.
I've never done casting of any kind, but I am thinking of trying it out, that led me to your channel. I thought others did the vibrating after the pour, not during? I'm definitely not going to vibrate after seeing this.
Well informed and on the topic I've been waiting to see. Good work.
How about ultrasound? We use sonicating baths in the lab for degassing solutions (water: alcohol mostly) and that works. I'm starting a polyurethane resin project and don't have a pressure pot or vacuum chamber at home so considering a cheap ultrasound bath
Hey Robert, for the sake of science, how about a solid metal base (piece of car suspension spring) then place the mold over it, take a metal stick and beat it producing a tuning fork effect like, get the stick around the mold?
I just found your channel and subscribed! I love these videos. Thank you!
Thanks for the test Robert! Guess that answers that.
Q. Robert, Do you ever use baby powder in moulds to break surface tension? I think I’ve seen most of your vids and haven’t seen it being used or discussed.
If one wants to do many excellent cast, a vacuum chamber and pressure chambers ARE A MUST. Both, cheap $200. Ish, each), but, if you’re only doing moulds/cast a half dozen times in your lifetime, and not buy equipment that leads to the best cast, then proper venting, pour hole, good resin and baby powder I’ve experienced will help the average joe. Today’s silicone and resin are much better. One also has to take into consideration, cost of silicone, resin, other equipment and time if it is economical to do it in the first place rather than just buy a second of what you want to cast. I’m not for vibration, but, thin pouring of resin, rotating mould, gently squeezing mould will get rid of bubbles. I hear, wood is porest and holds air so I use metal tools. Also, you can avoid creating bubbles in the first place by just being careful mixing the resins.
I never had much luck with baby powder in molds. And I have never found it necessary. But many people recommend it so I can’t really say anything against it. To the hobbyist who can’t afford equipment I would say learn to properly vent your molds. That’s the most important thing to make good castings. Also, without equipment, just accept that you may have flaws in your castings that will need to be cleaned up.
What if the vibration changed in intensity periodically constantly varying between the highest and lowest intensity with the other tricks like constant slow rocking and pressure, a sort of all in one idea that also holds the mold in place. Idk if it would do anything but i think it would be a pretty interesting invention even if it's to disprove the method
Now you have to test talcum powder, it really works for me and i cast tiny and more intricate parts
I always thought the talcum powder worked, especially for undercut areas I would roll molds about to thoroughly coat the interior and then use my air hose to blow out any excess powder.
@@lindasnyder3961 I use a small make up brush, you really need to keep it light or else there is the danger of pulling out a perfect cast with a nice little talcum pocket on an edge.
interesting. all i can tell you is my experience... just hold an orbital sander or something against the mold for 30 seconds, not the sander part but a hard part of the handle. it's not a big vibration like your setup, it's more like a humming kind of thing but no doubt it will get rid of some bubbles, a majority. not as much as vacuum or compress but if you don't have those tools it's better than nothing.... better than banging with a stick which i think we would all recommend 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I don't have a pressure pot so I built a faceplate for my lathe that acts as a centrifuge with a small container that I put my castings in. I'm only casting parts for small models and spinning them at the equivalent of 10 g-forces works very well for preventing bubbles. Scary as all-get-out though when you have to walk past it! Even though I know all the bolts are 1/4" steel.
Spin casting can be very effective. The spin cast machines that I have seen hold the mold inside of a closed space which makes it much safer from flying resin or mold failures. The mold cavities are arranged inside of a circular rubber mold and the pour spout is in the middle of the circle.
You proofed withou any daubt what in theory might be knowldge. Very well done aus usual
I would not expect just any frequency to work... It would require experimentation with different frequencies
Vibration is a science in and of itself, so you probably need a different frequency or intensity, probably even for each type of resin and maybe even depending on the temperature. Less viscous resins are probably going to be a lot easier.
Honestly, getting the best result is always going to be a sum of all the tools available to you. Vibration will never replace degassing and pressurizing.
Would be much easier to do with one of those vibration speakers.
This was by no means a scientific test. But once a bubble has risen to a place where it is trapped no amount of vibration will move it. That’s why the best way to eliminate. bubbles is to properly vent the mold cavity.
I've been using vibration to get the bubbles out of epoxy on slab tables for years. Unfortunately I use two rubber mallets and basically play a drum roll on the wood. I need to work out a good mechanical way of doing it
Every material needs a different approach. I find that heat works well with Epoxy resins- but I have less experience with it than I do with urethane resins. Vibration works well with plaster and cement type materials.
ok so I had similar issues when I used an old body massager as a way to help remove bubbles and I am glad its not because I am incompetent
Vibration, tapping the container, etc, works great with plaster, Durham's, concrete and such.
Concussion works not at all on resin. Sort of like how a propane torch will break bubbles when you're pouring resin for faux stone countertops but a torch won't do diddly if you're making concrete countertops.
Love your channel, sir. I've learned a lot from you!
Exactly. The best debubblizing technique is all about the casting medium.
Now riddle me this! Would stirring with a magnetic stirring plate help reduce air bubbles in pouring at least? Obviously placement of vents is still a huge factor but I’ve seen the plates incorporate less bubbles than regular stick stirring and I sure would rather spend money once
resin ok but what about vibrating silicone? I use a handheld vibrator for 15-20 minutes and get the majority of bubbles out, I also add thinner
It would be a bit complicated but a chamber that can be both a vacuum chamber AND pressure pot could possibly solve a lot of problems, particularly if it also has an automatic resin mixer/dispenser. I'm thinking put your two part resin in separate chambers above the mould, close the vessel and evacuate the air, then allow the resin into a mixer nozzle where it flows into the mould below ( which is also of course in the vacuum) then when filled allow air pressure in which will further ensure the resin is pushed into all the nooks and crannies with no air to get in it's way.
There are endless ways to set up a production casting studio with all sorts of metering and injecting systems. They work great and allow factories to cast thousands of parts an hour. I’ve toured some impressive operations in Asia.
I’m a prototype shop so my volumes are small. For me it’s much simpler to gravity feed resin into a properly vented mold. Then pressure cast the resin to suppress foaming. Once in a rare while I have to fill a bubble in a casting. No big deal, and much easier than operating an automated injection system every day!
@@RobertTolone I know there's industrial ones I was thinking of a smaller scale much simpler system that would be practical for small shops/hobby use.
You are quite a gem. I love your very interesting videos. Thank you!
Thanks!
I wonder if putting the two parts of the resin in vacuum chamber (separate cups obviously) to dehydrate them before mixing will help in preventing bubbles since it is the moisture reacting to create the foaming? If so, how much time does it need for the smaller portions you pulled? I know some people also put dry air (it's a pressurized can of dry gas) into the containers after pouring the amount of resin needed to help keep moisture out.
Seeing results from Eric Strebel a couple of years ago for resin pours and others with different materials, vibration (possibly with heat assistance too) does appear to be beneficial in certain conditions due to surface tension changes causing collapse of bubbles, but it's not a substitute or shortcut for using whatever other techniques are at hand as well.
Lots of people swear by vibration but it’s never worked for me with urethane. I do use it with hydro stone, cement, plaster etc.
@@RobertTolone Thanks Robert, definitely a case of YMMV. I've just started and made my first mould last night. 3D printed a test part, cycle of sanding and acrylic filler, 3D printed a mould case with draft angles to help get it out, degassed the RTV and had a go. Volume calculation I did in Fusion for the silicone was right but had to make some more (twice) from presumably some left in the containers. Took out the mould today and it turned out great, and used it with Jesmonite. Degassed the liquid part but used a hand held massage vibrator on the final mix in the mould seeing reports of degassing the mixture causing texture problems. It did help bubbles come to the surface in that case, so like you said it seems to work well for plaster type applications, and having excess I used it in some other moulds we had for craft projects in the past. Vibration also helped it flow as the viscosity was increasing by that point. Thanks for your videos as they've been really helpful in discovering and learning about this area.
I always tap on my bench after pouring resin up. Just a habit I guess but I feel like its helping,lol.
Very interesting
ultrasonic vibration would be cool to try
Try it and let us know the results!
That table probably wouldn't work very well, but you might have decent luck at shaking out the bubbles by using ultrasonic vibrations, like the kind used to shake free microscopic debris from medical tools. Those same things can be used to create barrel aged whisky within minutes, instead of years.
No idea if it would work for this application, but I'm certain it would do a much better job at it than the setup you've got there. (I'm only 1:48 in, so maybe you tried securing the mould later on in the video, but I think your setup would work better if it secured the mould. Still, no idea if it would be able to shake out all the bubbles or not though.)
Loved seeing the ending with the comparison, and the problems that are caused by moisture, and air. Very educational!
Myth busters meets mold master!!
There is a spray argon gas in a can called Bloxygen. I wonder if it would help with the long term storage of unused resin....?..
Yes, they can work well. I made a video on that kind of product:
czcams.com/video/FBC9xQ6H4oc/video.html
Try ultrasonic vibrations next! :D
it wont replace a pressure pot... but shaking/vibrating does help a little
Tapping, rocking, tipping can definitely help remove bubbles.
So you're telling me, I'm screwed with bubbles unless I chuck up $400+ for a pressure pot? 😢
you can knock the bubbles out of something like cement, or ketchup, because its a non-Newtonian fluid that becomes lower viscosity when force is applied. maybe some resins and silicones are also non-newtonian?
Curious what you DO use the vibrating table for. I have to assume you didn't go through the trouble of building one just for demonstrating that they don't work, right?
Excellent question Mike. I explained the history of it when I recorded the video but edited it out. The vibration motor is 30 years old. I bought it when I first started resin casting. It was attached to a table made of plywood and four bed springs. Used that contraption just long enough to determine that it didn’t work and then went out and bought my vacuum and pressure systems. The original table was thrown out years ago but I hung onto the motor. To build this new table all I did was suspend a piece of plywood with 4 silicone rubber bands. Built it quick and easy and it vibrates pretty aggressively! The time it took will be worth it because from now on anyone who suggests using vibration in the comments will receive the link to this video! I am tired of telling people why I don’t think it works! 😄👍
What about casting plaster and concrete tho?
Hi, that’s a great guide video. I don’t own a pressure pot and was thinking casting with pressure eleminates all bubbles. It’s good to see that even using pressure there is going to be some flaws.
Can you try this with vacuum too? As i mention above i don’t own pressure pot but i have vacuum. If i need parts that close to perfect, i use vacuum chamber after the casting although it’s not perfect it helps. Seeing all of the comparisons of vacuum, pressure and vibration cast in a video definetely help some beginners decide what equipment to get in their shops. Great video as always, thanks and take care 🙂
I will do a video about using vacuum to cast resin in molds. You’re right, it doesn’t work consistently either.
I'd say your vibrating table is not moving at an appropriate frequency and far too much amplitude, and may in fact be causing bubbles. I'd try agitating that mold with the voice coil out of a woofer or a mid-range speaker, and I'd start around 120 hz.
Why don't you squeeze the rim of the cup when you pour the resin out? I figure that would make it easier to pour without it dripping down the side, but does it do something else undesirable?
I find it doesn’t help stop the drip much. What works very well is to have a small amount of resin in the pour cup. It’s pretty much impossible to pour from a full cup without dripping but if the cup is lightly loaded you have really good control over the pour.
Great video, as always. =) I am not sure I can cast the lego piece blindfolded, but I am like 6+-70% sure I can cast the bucket. I think the small hole in the lego mold will be way to big of a headache to hit while being blindfolded. A big bucket on the other hand... ^^
i found this only works on plaster , just my findings is all,, thank you for the tips
This is not really vibrating the resin. it is just jiggling the mold. It needs to be secured in a more rigid container. You want low intensity high frequency vibrations continuously during pour and the entire length of the curing time. Preheating the mold also helps a lot.
That said a pressure pot will still be more effective for rigid materials. The vibration is more helpful for elastic materials, like making silicone molds.
OMGOLLY, I LOVE THE WITNESS CUP...LOL
Top tip thank you
I am surprised your pressure pot allowed bubbles that large to exist. What PSI are you using?
Usually 50, sometimes up to around 80. That’s sufficient most of the time.
Try pressure potting the resin for like 30sec then pouring it into the mold and then doing it with the mold.
So vacuum still works for resin right? 😉🙄
These tests were done in a manor that would not help you discover anything. Vibration works well with a thin medium, but once the viscosity reaches a certain thickness, vibration is not an option.
These tests were about as unscientific as testing gets. But they are there to illustrate the point that vibration does not work. This I know from long experience. Vibration does not necessarily work in a thin medium because the resin I’m using is very low viscosity.
Make some videos showing how you use vibration to make bubble-free castings. I would love to change my mind and be shown new techniques.
@@RobertTolone I agree, vibration will not work. The pressure pot shrinks the bubbles down so small you can not see them with your eyes. Best method.
You tried vacuum and pressure method before ? Just curious, I know other CZcamsrs do it however I would to know pros and con with vac'n'pressured resin does.
It definitely reduces bubbles pouring concrete but concrete vibrators are these massive, powerful things. I don't think anything an artist would use on a small scale would do anything.
Why wouldn't it?
Interesting, and just a little disappointing. I was hoping to try vibration on the few things I have that won't fit in my pressure pot. Good to know anyway, so thanks!
this is the first time i have seen anyone even try this
hey can you tell me about those pressure pots you have? did you make them yourself or did you buy them from somewhere?
czcams.com/video/VYO318KFuAA/video.html
Vibration only works on plaster molds. At least as far as I've experienced.
It may have something to do with the weight of the particles in the liquid. It works on plaster, hydrostone, concrete etc. But I’ve never gotten it to work well with resin.
Dusting the mold before pouring,, a myth?
People swear by it. I mostly swear at it. It never worked for me.
Hey Robert ! Can you make a video hiw to make a mold for jars with lids for storage? It woild be awsome !
It would be interesting to see how you would redesign something like the Bionicle head/mask so that it works better with casting.
That is a video that I am now producing. Also in production is a video about why vacuum will not necessarily remove bubbles from this shape. This Bionicle video generated more interest than any other video on my channel. I think a lot of people will be interested in a version that is easier to resin cast.
Looks like part of the problem is orientation of the mold, bubbles catching on horizontal surfaces.
Surely shaking something introduces bubbles.
Anyone who knows what they are doing will agree with Robert
Until I screw up and then they’ll let me have it!
Vibration works in plaster when the bubbles have a way to escape. It isn't going to magically create an escape route where there is none.
Vibration works with plaster and cement but not with resin. You must always have properly placed vents in your mold to let the air out no matter what medium you are casting in.
Hi Robert .I am pouring some resin for a diorama I am making and need to pour a tube 10cm x6cm. I am using deep pour crystal clear that says it can be poured up to 9cm in one pour. You can see my predicament. Would you go ahead and just pour the whole 10 cm or would you pour 9cm and let it cure before pouring the last cm? I am using a silicone candle making mould.
Depends on if there will be a visible line between the layers. If yes, I would risk the single pour. If no, I would pour it in two more or even sized pours.
Thanks. I was planning to lightly colour the resin but I would rather make sure it sets properly. I still haven’t finished the diorama so I still have some time to think about it. I feel a bit braver having spoken to someone with your kind of experience.
I wonder if a speaker (membrane removed of cours) might be a good way to be able to control the frequency and amplitude. Could also be used in a vacuum and/or pressure vessel.
You could undoubtedly use it to control frequency and amplitude but I don’t know if that would help you make better castings.
@@RobertToloneWell, what the first experiment with the soda showed is that this particular vibration table wasn't very efficient in removing bubbles anyway.
What about vacuum then pressure pot?
Rather, pour mold, draw a partial vacuum, then chuck it in high pressure. No clue what difference it would have.. (I don't do molds, just watch arts and tradesmen on yt 😆)
Could you use longer pot life resin or chill resin and do a vacuum casting just my 2 cents worth love your video's thank you for making them .
Yes, you can use a resin with a longer open time. The trade off is that the longer resin sits in the mold the more it degrades the mold.
personally, i use vibration + heat gun + vacuum chamber and i RARELY get bubbles. however i degas my resin before i apply it as i free pour sculptures
What is the gel time of the resin you pour?
I don't care too much about the imperfections, casting Bionicle parts is just too satisfying !
That the right attitude! It’s just that my channel is all about bubble battles - so fight on I shall!
@@RobertTolone The second best attitude - no need to not just eliminate as many of them as possible them, when it's easy to do..