Epoxy vs Urethane Casting Resin
Vložit
- čas přidán 24. 02. 2022
- In this video I make a three part silicone mold to make some epoxy battery covers for a client. I compare expo resin vs Urethane resin, the pros and the cons!
Backpack hanger: botzen.com/alfred.html
DragonSkin 30 Silicone: amzn.to/3JRPsNU
Chavant soft clay: amzn.to/35560D6
Luer lock bottles with needles: www.ebay.com/itm/224710545884
Elmers 16oz white glue amzn.to/38Gl4TJ
X-Acto #11 extra durable 100 Pack Blades amzn.to/349F2Fu
Xacto Black Gripster: amzn.to/2JuxOCx
Better Boat Epoxy resin: amzn.to/3t9n0QP
Buy a 50W laser(with LightBurn software): amzn.to/3764QpK
Buy a 50W laser: amzn.to/3dpKXuZ
Chipboard Sheets, 12" x 12", Natural, 25-Pack: amzn.to/2KFH6MQ
Shellac: amzn.to/35sX3TS
CPS 10 CFM vacuum pump: amzn.to/3jM1ig9
Black Skintx Latex gloves: amzn.to/3jQuwKH
Petroleum Jelly: amzn.to/2EcR5t0
Naphtha: amzn.to/3aK4sgs
Loctite super glue: amzn.to/3nXxPkx
Zap kicker: amzn.to/3qEuqJM
Elmers 16oz white glue amzn.to/38Gl4TJ
K & S Brass tubing 1/16": amzn.to/3vMVA6l
As an Amazon and Banggood Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
My Video Gear:
Panasonic GH5 amzn.to/35ZeQgp
Panasonic GH4 with lens amzn.to/2Nb5B7b
Panasonic Lumix 14-140 lens amzn.to/2FOxYmi
Panasonic LUMIX G X Vario Power Zoom Lens, 14-42MM Power O.I.S
amzn.to/2J3KsJH
Manfrotto 244 Variable Friction Magic Arm: amzn.to/2X7YwIT
Manfrotto 035RL Super Clamp: amzn.to/3dbPWyf
Headphones Sony MDR7506: amzn.to/2ycntIV
Samsung 128Gb MicoSD card with adapter
amzn.to/2CcEFzW
Zhiyun Crane V2 3 Axis Brushless Handheld Gimbal Stabilizer
amzn.to/2NKp2kz
Pergear Tripod Tabletop Stand for the Zhiyun Handheld Gimbal Stabilizer
amzn.to/2NaKWjK
My Audio Gear:
MXL 990, XLR Connector Condenser Microphone: amzn.to/3elRw1K
Shure MVi Digital Audio Interface XLR to USB: amzn.to/2VzjgYa
USB-C to Micro usb cable: amzn.to/3cfcrSb
My Hardware:
Apple 16" MacBook Pro: amzn.to/2VrAI0C
Apple Thunderbolt 3 cable: amzn.to/3clTwVV
G-RAID with Thunderbolt 3 amzn.to/2uQppFx
LG 27UK850-W 27" 4K Monitor: amzn.to/3elxpk7
Apple iPad Pro 12.9-inch: amzn.to/2K5qwp7
Apple pencil 2nd gen: amzn.to/3elyisX
Apple iPad Mini 5: amzn.to/2VrJzPP
Slope stand by whip labs: amzn.to/2APaDSt
Anker 7 in 1 USB-C hub card reader: amzn.to/3t9qX7Y
ThinkTank Shapeshifter 15" Backpack: amzn.to/2Cc6U1F
.
Music: end credits Rurlyok
rurlyok.bandcamp.com
Contact me through www.botzen.com for design work,
you can follow me on:
Twitter: at / botzendesign (@botzendesign)
Facebook: / botzendesign
Instagram: / botzendesign @botzendesign
Botzen Design Inc.
Industrial Design and Product Visualization
www.botzen.com - Jak na to + styl
Eric, Really good production values - camera work, voiceover, detail shots, discriprion, and of course, your the content is spot on! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Thanks!
great as always! I've done mold work for a while but always learns something new from you.
Great comparison video! I haven’t seen you post anything for a while and was getting concerned. But glad to to see you post. I’ll be sending you a project to quote for me. Thanks!
I make almost all my molds using that plastic cup open face method. Works really well for small pieces. Any issues I've had were related either to materials mismatch or improper mixing.
Undercut to lock the parts together was so smart!
vids just keep getting better
Found you today. I love your ideas!
Really impressive and answered my questions about resin vs. epoxy. New to this stuff so this is very helpful. Thx Eric - SUBSCRIBED
Awesome, thanks
Great video. Super informative. Can't wait for Smell-O-Vision comes to CZcams. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Hey bud, I enjoy your videos, I do production pour casting for a family owned urethane business in NE PA. When we have an open top mold, I just fill it it a little over and either scrape a Ross the top with a good putty knife/drywall tool or use a block of steel/aluminum and slide it across the top of the part. It works very well. You just have to use a smooth continously motion. What you are left with is just regular flash. For some molds we even cast in guide rails for the purpose of the final sliding piece. It is occasionally possible to get a bubble with the slide top method, but a quick dremel of the surface and a dab of material after initial demoldis all it takes to fix it. Good luck and ty for the content as it is also something I do as a hobby.
P.s. is it strange that when I'm off work I'm spending any amount of spare time watching you do the same/similar thing haha.
Cool, thanks for the tip
I do a lot of open face molds I make using machinable wax and a cnc , I set a flat piece on top after the pour that has a small hole to allow the resin to escape as the flat
this stuff are great! Keep it going!
Great video! thanks for posting it! Could you maybe go over in more detail how the small part of the mold for the locking tab functions? Thanks again!
i watched +10times and i still don't get how it's done, that little 3rd piece, ¿its unlocked from the mold and its putted before inject the epoxy/urethane? or how its done?
Hi Eric, I'm always amazed by your solutions to the 'tricky bits' of mold making, e.g. the separate mold part for the delicate clip/prong part. My 'stupid' question (i'm a very small time, part maker with 0 budget) is, do you dispose of the syringes after one use or can they be cleaned of the resin? ..and if so, how?
Resin comes right off. Does not stick to the plastic
Good content, great video, seeing the comments leads me to believe that a post about where to source the products would be helpful.
Check the description below the video, many of the products supplies and tools are listed there.
you can control free surface of a one part mold quite easily. just cover it with glass or any flat piece with release agent on it.
this requires only slight change in the mold itself - mold bottom (top) needs to be flat as well so no plastic cups )
Can you explain that a bit more please?
Are you saying to build the box on glass bottom sheet?
I believe what he is saying that the top of the mold just needs to be flat so that you can put some release agent on a piece of glass and when you pour your part, Just slap the glass on top of it so that it comes out flat once it's cured.
@@EricStrebel Hi Eric! Thanks. I mold little flat bottom fishing baits in an open topped mold (bottom of mold case). I've been gluing the flat side of the master to pieces of smooth, plastic laminated shelf and building the box up from there. Just cant get a flush "top" because silicone leaks up to the glue line, causing thin flashing. Looking for a cleaner finish really.
That's why I make all my molds as two part molds, and almost never as open face mold because you can't control that top surface when it's an open face. Simple as that.
@@EricStrebel Yep I've been coming to that conclusion myself after watching your channel. Trouble I have with that is that when laid flat some of the fish and worm masters are less than 10mm high, making for very thin molds. They are sort of fat ballpen sized.
Should I look at molding these vertically?
What is the brand of the white pigment that you use? I've been researching for a good opaque white that doesn't have major issues with the resin curing. I'm trying to compile a list of some to try. Does it take a lot of pigment to get a good opaqueness? Or does a little go a long way?
I think you and Robert Tolone would have some great discussions with each other an reviews of each others videos and techniques.
very nice work
Thanks
Hey Eric, great video as always. Can you please recommend a pigment for the epoxy? I've never had good luck with coloring my epoxy resins. Thanks!
You should be able to use any pigment that you use for urethane resins, so any alcohol or dry pigment should work
What was your total cost to make the part? I have a project about that size and trying to determine if its worth it to go the injected molding route or another route.
Hi,
Just found your channel. I have a 1988 Toyota fj62 Land cruiser. The center dash bezel is cracked and brittle. What type of resin would be best to use to cast new one? have never tried molding anything before ....
hey there- what type of cardboard do you use?
thanks- just looked - all good ..
I remember infusing molds for the carbon fiber parts of the Formular Student Car at my Uni. But the Epoxy there was rather thin, so might be worth a try to use some infusion resin instead of the thick one you used ? Other than that great video and an interesting mold!
Was is a special type of epoxy resin you used for resin casting? Was this for making a 2 part compression mold?
Have you considered applying a thin coat of PVA on the rubber part before pouring the platinum silicone? form what i did in the past, its the safest way to guarantee the curing by addition in unknown resins and rubbers
No, I have not considered it, as is would alter the size of the part. It would probably work though
hello, what kind of resin would you use for example automotive parts like a cam belt cover?
I loved the trick at the beginning of the video, with that small clip moulding.
It really depends on the properties you want for your part. Check with your preferred resin supplier, they usually have tech support to help with that.
There is a lot of confusion about Epoxy Foams vs other foams. Any chance you have any projects to test out various foams. The Tesla 4680 battery pack apparently uses Epoxy foam to achieve added stiffness.
Can I send you a small part to have cast in resin? I'm working on a 1/12 scale motorcycle and the kit has a missing part. I ordered another kit so I can use the part to cast a spare.
thank u
You're most welcome
I think you should get a fume hood for any noxious chemicals in your shop.
What brand was the tin cure silicone ?
Man Eric, your detail of mold production is amazing.
got some very nice epoxy s here in Europe, some very liquid. Some long cure times. But I got the inverse experience, the urethanes smell like .... For days and the epoxy is almost totally odourless. Of course use a VOC meter to know what the air quality is. maybe I can send you the websites, they even have extra uv stabilizers that you can add. Iff I have some time I will even make a video of it. And send it to you. Greetings from Belgium
Rampf resins, German company
@@EricStrebel thank you
i want to make a fender for a dirtbike so the part needs to be able to flex a little bit, what kind of resin would you advise for this application
Reach out to tech support at your favorite resin supplier for assistance. I recommend BJB enterprises
Superb work as always Eric ! BTW - Pour low, vent high.... wasn't that a song by Yes? ;-) LOL !
Hahahah
can you have a video where you explain more about the key seals in the silicon? Is it to hold the silicon mold in place? I see sculptors would often build a clay wall and make half spheres registration marks or sometimes they do zigzag line so the parts line up. This video is where i first see this method so i would like to find out more. Or where can i read more about it? Thank you
Made it up actually, all the other methods you mention are pre laser. You need a laser or a way to make a digital key for this to work. Yes the key seal hold the two halfs together. Almost every video in the last 2 years of mine used this technique in some way shape or form
@@EricStrebel how interesting to even think about the history of moldmaking itself, and also how artists and product designers make molds for their works also fascinates me as i'm learning right now
Very nice. You make its seem so simple but I know its just not so. What were the brass tubes you were using?
Sorry, I see the link for the brass tubes in the notes to your video. Thanks.
Just starting out here....if one was to take a typical 300 lb. capacity shop swivel caster wheel and try to repair the cracked and crumbled solid rubber tire over a metal hub.....using the original caster as the mold....... for a 1-time use, (assuming its stripped, cleaned, prepped, sealed openings with clay, plywood box, etc.), what is the best material and/or method for that kind of operation? I figure this might be a good project for a first timer never having worked with this stuff before. cheers. thanks
Pretty complex, not something I would advise for a first casing project. Plus it's round and that is hard. Use polyurethane
I wonder if one advantage of epoxy over urethane is its sensitivity to humidity? Isn't epoxy more resistant to absorbing water or moisture from the air?
Correct
hi eric, when i google epoxy resin the only thing show me is chair or table i didnt see casting sculpture using epoxy resin.could u explain that why?
My guess would be because it's not generally used for that
Is there a good way to reuse the syringe? Acetone or something to clean it?
Let the rein cure and remove the material
I dont get what is that black rubber stopeer used for. Can someone explain
it's explained in the video in the beginning
Genial 🎉
Using cardboard for keying is pure genius, versus dealing with the mess of modeling clay and marbles for registration keys
Thanks
@@EricStrebel only part that will suck for me is not having a laser cutter (which is super cool btw). I could use MDF, and my Dremel tool to cut out a mould, but I would need a steady hand
Sort of the beauty of having a laser. It has totally changed the way I build models
@@EricStrebel 😁 and it's just super cool. LASERS!!! 😁😁😁😁
this is very similar to the shape and size of the parts i need to make. do you take on clientele?
Yes, link in the description to the website
Curious if you know whether you can use urethanes for things like kitchen utensils (things that will touch food or drink). The Google machine is failing me on this. I understand why folks (esp manufacturers) might be shy about making claims. It's probably ridiculously expensive to have things validated at FDA and even then, errors in end use can make it a huge liability for them. I see that some epoxy resins that use BPA have been FDA-approved for some food contact. Anyway, I would appreciate your expert input on this question. I have not really worked with anything but silicone, and even then only a few times.
The best way is to snag the manufacturer's data sheets and c if they meet your requirements, or chatting with them directly via their support either online or on the phone.
so thes is bakalite?
I would be a little worried about the clip function in that epoxy instead of PC/ABS original part. Seems like it worked out ok, though.
I dont get what is that black rubber stopeer used for. Can someone explain
which Urethane resin, do you use ? and which is the best silicon ? thanks
Usually listed in the description of the videos
Hi, what do you use to tin down the vaseline?
Naptha
Id have just taped the batteries in or the old cover. lol
Ohh, that was the thickest epoxy I've seen so far. I'm making carbonfiber parts and use epoxies often. I you easycomposites epoxy but they are in the UK. Try to contact composites envision in the US, I think they can set you up. The epoxy from easycomposites doesn't smell anything.
Can epoxy or urethanes replace PVC components say, in a swimming pool?
In theory yes, make sure it's UV stable
Urethane or epoxy, which last the longest and how long? TY for the great vid!
It depends on your application and environment along with final use. Check with the manufacturer specs for hardness UV and deflection, etc
@@EricStrebel Great work btw! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Can you post a link to the brass tubing please?
Added
do short vid on pouring in scale with lil math please
You prefer tin or platinum silicone?
Tin cure
For some Reason I can't find any Naphtha in Europe...
Do you have a alternative for thining Vaseline?
White spirit
You can try dish liquid and isopropyl as an alternative
@@EricStrebel I'm not sure if 'Cleaning Gasoline' is the same as Naphtha o_O
I'll try both
Cleaning Gasoline/Naphtha and Dish soap and IPA
I make epoxy countertops using Stonecoat Epoxy. They have several different types... check em out.
Silly request, but, making a face mold would be kind of a fun tutorial.
Stay tuned!
Молодцом!
this obviously has to be injection molded HDPE, ABS or some thermoplastic. for prototyping PU seems fine. aa we know thermosets cannot be re/upcycled
as for smell here is a thing. epoxy can smell really bad but this smell is not so harmful. it just smells bad and that's all.
polyurethane vapors on the other hand are barely noticeable. but they are straight up poison (isocyanate).
so please wear proper safety equipment in any case.
What's the strongest epoxy?
Good question don't know, check with the manufacturers
I have used Naked Fusion, the Deep Cast is very fluid. The art formula is a lot thicker, but it's meant more for creating art so it's supposed to hold its shape. It takes a long time to cure, but has little to no odor in my experience
Thanks, still learning at 66
Absolutely!
How much did this cost the client?
Probably in the 400-500 range....
@@EricStrebel about how many pieces were made?
Perhaps around a dozen parts
@@EricStrebel so about 37.50 per battery cover. Amazing.
Recommendation: Use casting urethane instead of silicone. It doesn't have the issues with inhibition.
Subscribed at "sure as shit."
WEST system epoxy? Not smelly, thin 5:1. Two different set times. Dunno, just suggesting.
Thanks!
Cobra Kai?
You're a pro at this! and I enjoyed your video. I just wish you would have shown us what the small silicone mold piece did for the overall mold and how it went together. And did it create additional flashing pieces ?
Otto Waalkes is an amazing dude !
First viewer
Sorry but you get an inverted thumb down
Let me know why, that helps me understand your feedback
Excellent video, great insights. Brilliant work also.
This channel now a firm favourite.
🫡
Thanks
Eric, check out InhibitX. It’s a super low-viscosity inhibitor for plat silicones and I use it on any materials that I haven’t already tested with plat silicone and it works well without affecting most finishes
Cool
My neighbour absolutely stinks so I hear what you are saying re the obnoxious smell and the need for correct PPE 😂
Thanks, still learning at 66