Love this. I have trained PWDs for water work for over 30 years and this mirrors my philosophy. I now have a 3 mo. Working Cocker. This is great video for us! Thank you so much.
I’m so glad I found you on CZcams. I have a 6 year old Working Cocker and your Recall videos are so helpful and beginning to pay dividends with her recall. I think I gave her too much freedom as a pup hence the poor recall. I think I’d been lazy as well in not working on it. Seen a few trainers but now, looking back, I wasn’t offered any advice about addressing Freya’s recall. I am using a long line with her which is very light and made of Para-cord so is also quite strong. I’m using it when out with her - just really as a safety net! As I say, she really is coming on and am getting so much more confident with her. Thank you.
Oh that’s amazing I’m so glad! Just remember to bring your criteria back down quick significantly when moving into the woods as it will be so much more distracting than your garden. Good luck!
@@SpanielTrainingDiaries glad to report things went well, split the session into "drives" and she did really well using that quartering exercise you showed with a couple of blind retrieves. Then she flushed 3 woodcock and the wheels came off a bit! Should have called it a day maybe a little earlier but we are both learning! Thanks again
Hi, I’ve an English Springer that’s a similar age to Tia. It’s really encouraging to see how effective your reward based training is. Will be putting it into practice!
Oh I’m so glad! It’s never too late. I think the key is to just work out what different things they find motivating and then can you can utilise them effectively as rewards. Enjoy your training! 😊
Thank you for putting playlists together - finding your sessions extremely helpful and sorting through to what you need so much easier with the playlists. Thank you! Tom
If you have used these exercises from the beginning that’s why it’s gone wrong. Why use food as a reward when the reward can be the retrieve. Walk the dog on the lead stop her using the whistle tug the lead at the same time until it’s sharp but don’t over do. Walk her out place out a dummy say leave it walk back stop and sit her. Roll out a ball to the side let her see it say leave it. Send her for the first retrieve as she’s going out walk and pick the ball up don’t let her see. Once she’s back from the 1st retrieve send her for the 2nd one she will start to hunt to look for it as she then pushes out the pattern to find it stop her because you are nice and close you can be on her carry on hunting and just repeat when happy drop the ball down without her seeing let her find it.
I have used this method as I have seen it work brilliantly with loads of other working dogs who all have a beautiful stop response so I know it can work. I’d be interested to know if there is a reason you think I shouldn’t use food for it? I do a similar exercise with a ball which also works well. I use food in this video and in many of my videos as she is highly food motivated so we get great results when training with food, and for videos it means I am able to do lots of repetitions whilst keeping her arousal and adrenaline levels in a good range for learning. It’s interesting as having trained her using this as our foundation method, I can do the exercises that you have mentioned as it is one in our repertoire. She actually stops well when in a retrieve context, whether it’s on the run out or when she is hunting in the area of fall. I agree that it is a great little exercise. The situation we were seeing it fall apart in was when she was beating so hunting for live game, so I just wanted to brush up the foundations for a little while and then I’ve moved back to re-proofing it more in highly scented and higher arousal situations. If you have any specific exercises that you think could be useful for that specific scenario I’d love to hear them. 😊
Hello. You mentioned another dog that this method would not work with. My dog is the same. To clever & will not go on fake throw. How would you teach the stop to a dog like that please? I’m really struggling.
Hi there, I have a folder saved on my page called “stop whistle” which includes a few different videos with a couple of different approaches for teaching the stop. This video where I’m creating a hot spot area works with dogs that are too clever for the fake throw method. As you build the value in the dog staying by the target which allows you to pair the stop whistle with the dog stopping at distance from you. I hope one of the videos in that folder might be helpful for you.
Sorry for such a delayed response, I have been off of CZcams for the last year or so. If you are still interested you can buy the marker posts from Muntjac Trading, here’s the link: www.muntjactrading.com/products/marking-stick
Yes it may well have done, but it’s just my personal preference not to train like that. Everyone trains in a way that they are comfortable with and so in this instance instead of correcting her I decided to break our training down a bit and strengthen up her foundation understanding of the cue.
@@davidbolderstone6914 if I’m thinking with a “purest” mindset then no I’m not positive only. If I was to label my training style I’d probably call it reward based and force free. So I choose not to physically correct my dogs but I will use a verbal interrupter on occasion for example if Ivy goes to run in. And if I get my training geek hat on, if using the term positive with its scientific meaning when looking at the four quadrants of learning I will also use negative punishment in my training; like taking away a dummy if they take the wrong cast for example, as that would be classes as negative because I remove the dummy, and it’s classed as punishment because it is done to reduce the likelihood of the behaviour of taking the wrong cast from reoccurring. I’m not a big fan of the various training labels as I think everyone just trains in the way that works, makes sense and feels right for them. I genuinely don’t think their is a right or wrong way it’s all just personal preference. Sorry I rambled a bit there both hopefully that makes some sense.
@@davidbolderstone6914 I think this training is really just for pet dogs not real working dogs. I doubt the dog would be capable of being in a hot situation, I don't know why they have to use food rewards the retrieve *Is the reward, food often just complicates things. Maybe the trainer doesn't realise that a correction can be just placing the dog back on the spot where the the whistle was blown, showing the dog where is should be, the dog is just looking for food and not joining the dots.
@@SpanielTrainingDiaries understand what you are saying about labels. Please don't think me being argumentative, just constructive criticism of I may. To be honest there is no such thing as purely positive as putting a dog on a lead is negative. The four quadrants are great but there are times a physical punishment is required. I don't mean cruel or nasty just a leash correction. To re enforce a taught behaviour
Thanks for your direction.Do you think I am storing up future training problems by playing tug of war with my 10 week old cocker? Carry on the good work.
Hi John, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos! I think tug, when done well, can be a great game to play with a dog and it can be used as a really highly valuable reward if your pup enjoys it. My key things if playing tug is that you need to always have a clear start and end point. So to teach this with a young dog I would have a cue for tugging that I say just before I bring the toy out and start playing. And you need to develop a strong, conflict free drop cue as your end point. With a young dog I would generally do this with a swap for food, so whlist playing I would stop tugging and say my drop cue, I would then scatter a load of food on the floor, this so mean the dog will release the toy to eat the food and in turn drops the item. Then once they have eaten the food you can cue to start playing again or put the toy away. Over time and with repetition this will help you to develop your drop cue, without creating any conflict. I also think you are best to have specific toys that you use for tugging, which are different from your retrieve articles to help make sure there is a clear distinctuion between play toys and training equitment. And you just need to be careful to monitor the excitment levels, particularly with a pup as they don't yet know when to stop. So if you find them getting over excited or if they start getting bitey then I'd end the game and let them have a chill out to help them calm back down. I hope that makes sense. :)
Hi,iv started to follow your videos and techniques.may I ask which patè you use? Iv tried using my dogs kibble but it’s not a good enough reward.thank you and keep up the good work 👍 I’m always sharing your videos on fb too if somone is struggling with training!!
I use JR Pet Product Pate as treats most of the time. I use all their different flavours and my two love them all! If you’ve not shopped with the before uou can get 10% off your first order by using my referral code. Just follow the link below and quote the coupon code: ref1717806 www.jrpetproducts.com/?raf=ref1717806 Also thank you for sharing my videos, I really appreciate it! ☺️
I've been replicating the videos with my 15 week old, he is flying back everytime. I use a secure field with him, he doesnt run out far, but am very hesitant to let him off the lead in a field like you use. Can you give me a pointer on letting him off the lead at this point.
I would always recommend letting a puppy off lead as early as possible. Especially at 15 weeks as you will still be their safety blanket so they naturally tend to stay close which means you can start reinforcing that to build good habits now and that way you prevent issues in the future. Something that was important for me with Ivy was teaching her that when the lead comes off it is a cue to look at me not a cue to bugger off. So I would play a lead off game with her every time I let her off. I would unclip the lead and then immediately feed her a string of treats/food. Then I would clip the lead back on, wait a few seconds and repeat. Then I would unclip the lead, give a string of treats and then play some engagement games with her off lead. I tended to start playing the “up down” game were I drop food for her to eat and then as soon as she looks back towards me I would click and drop another piece of food. I think I demonstrate that game with Tia in my engagement games video. This approach has worked really well with Ivy, as now whenever I take the lead off she sits and looks at me waiting to be told what we’re going to do. And I do still reinforce this either with a treat, praise or the opportunity to do something she enjoys like being released to run around, sniff or hunt. For me it’s just important to remember that it’s your dogs outing so your focus should be on them. I think issues start to arise when people let their dogs off just let the dog do whatever they want for the whole time, I believe it’s important to keep the dog engaged with you. I do release them to explore the environment for short periods but I still keep an eye on them and reward them for checking in with me during that free time. Also I like to keep things unpredictable when I’m letting my dogs off lead for free time, so I never just walk in one direction. In my mind I have a distance that I don’t want the dog to go further than so if the are getting close to that distance I will change direction, walk off the paths or just stop, all without saying anything to the dog. You tend to find that as soon as the dog stops you’re not where they expected you to be they will come charging back toward you. This helps to build the habit of the dog keeping an eye on you and never roaming too far. Now is the prime time to start, as if you leave it too late you’ll be starting when the dog is in adolescence and getting more confident to roam which is when issues can arise if you’ve not started build good habits already. Kept it short and just have fun - good luck! 😊
Is it a good idea to start training this indoors first? The reason is that millie the sprocker is unable to keep it together once i let her in the garden. She will chase and bring a ball back but anything less exciting that this leads to her running around the perimiter sniffing for furries and chasing the odd seagull/aeroplane. She has come along very well indoors with her training but its the transition to the garden that seem to be too much for her.
Absolutely, I would always be aiming to start training new behaviours in a low distraction environment as that will help set the dog up for success. If they are finding the environment too distracting then often you can find that they are not in the right mind for learning. Once you can get success in a low distraction environment reliably then you can start to gradually increase the environmental distractions, but if your dog struggles in the garden you can find somewhere outside that is slightly less exciting; often somewhere like a patio style courtyard, or a quite parking lot on a long line can be a good transition place as the ground is less scented and so less distracting for their powerful little noses.
Hi Tara, I'm not sure I understand the question sorry. Are you asking about recall or the stop whistle? Ultimately either way there is no set timeline for getting reliable behaviours, sorry as I know that is a bit of a cop out answer. But timelines can vary so much depending on the dog, the training, the level of consistency from us as handlers, what the criteria is for the perfect behaviour in the handlers eyes, what our training priorities are and so much more. I would say the key is to make sure you are using rewards and reinforcement that your dog truly values as that will increase their motivation to do the desired behaviours and make sure when you are training very gradually building up the difficultly factors to make sure wherever possible you are setting the dog up for success and that will help to make things click into place for them.
I've just bought a little springer bitch, didn't pick her up till 10 weeks. A problem I seem to be having with her is she isn't paying attention to me, she seems to be more interested in what she's doing. Any advice on switching her on to me would be very much appreciated. I think missing out on them first few young weeks has let her make to much of her own mind up
I would just focus on engagement games, bonding and play to help build a bond a relationship at this stage. That will help her to learn that great stuff happens when she pays attention to you and make it more likely to happen more often. I do have a video on some engagement games although it’s with an older dog so not completely puppy focused. I used to use Ivy’s daily food allowance for games and engagement activities when she was a pup so she never ate out of a bowl and always got her dinner in a fun way with me, I found that worked well for us so could be something to try. I hope that helps. 😊
@@SpanielTrainingDiaries Thank you very much for the information and I'll definitely put that into practice and be sure to keep an eye on your videos. At this moment in time I'll take all the help I can get 😂. Thanks again 🙂
Do you think it's too late to use these training methods on a 4 year old dog? I've got a 4 year old and a 10 week old pup and I want to train the pup to the whistle, but feel I need to also train the 4 year old! Also, your jacket looks brilliant for holding everything needed! Where's it from? Many thanks!
Never too late, just start with the foundations and gradually build up at the dogs pace. 😊 Thank you the jacket is a Pinewood Ladies Dog Sport Vest, if you are in the UK they this seems to be their main stockist www.happyhotdogs.co.uk/collections/owners/vest Hope that helps!
Love this. I have trained PWDs for water work for over 30 years and this mirrors my philosophy. I now have a 3 mo. Working Cocker. This is great video for us! Thank you so much.
I’m so glad I found you on CZcams. I have a 6 year old Working Cocker and your Recall videos are so helpful and beginning to pay dividends with her recall. I think I gave her too much freedom as a pup hence the poor recall. I think I’d been lazy as well in not working on it. Seen a few trainers but now, looking back, I wasn’t offered any advice about addressing Freya’s recall.
I am using a long line with her which is very light and made of Para-cord so is also quite strong. I’m using it when out with her - just really as a safety net! As I say, she really is coming on and am getting so much more confident with her. Thank you.
I’m a so glad you’ve found the videos useful and that you are starting to make progress! Really pleased I could help from a far. 😊
Finally a stop whistle exercise that has worked for my cocker! Doing well in the garden, off to the woods tomorrow to try and proof it! Wish me luck!
Oh that’s amazing I’m so glad! Just remember to bring your criteria back down quick significantly when moving into the woods as it will be so much more distracting than your garden. Good luck!
@@SpanielTrainingDiaries glad to report things went well, split the session into "drives" and she did really well using that quartering exercise you showed with a couple of blind retrieves. Then she flushed 3 woodcock and the wheels came off a bit! Should have called it a day maybe a little earlier but we are both learning! Thanks again
Nice little video thank you for sharing
Great video lots of information for me and thanks for making the video 👍Mark
My pleasure, I’m glad you liked it. 😊
Hi, I’ve an English Springer that’s a similar age to Tia. It’s really encouraging to see how effective your reward based training is. Will be putting it into practice!
Oh I’m so glad! It’s never too late. I think the key is to just work out what different things they find motivating and then can you can utilise them effectively as rewards. Enjoy your training! 😊
Thank you for putting playlists together - finding your sessions extremely helpful and sorting through to what you need so much easier with the playlists. Thank you! Tom
If you have used these exercises from the beginning that’s why it’s gone wrong.
Why use food as a reward when the reward can be the retrieve. Walk the dog on the lead stop her using the whistle tug the lead at the same time until it’s sharp but don’t over do. Walk her out place out a dummy say leave it walk back stop and sit her. Roll out a ball to the side let her see it say leave it. Send her for the first retrieve as she’s going out walk and pick the ball up don’t let her see. Once she’s back from the 1st retrieve send her for the 2nd one she will start to hunt to look for it as she then pushes out the pattern to find it stop her because you are nice and close you can be on her carry on hunting and just repeat when happy drop the ball down without her seeing let her find it.
I have used this method as I have seen it work brilliantly with loads of other working dogs who all have a beautiful stop response so I know it can work.
I’d be interested to know if there is a reason you think I shouldn’t use food for it? I do a similar exercise with a ball which also works well. I use food in this video and in many of my videos as she is highly food motivated so we get great results when training with food, and for videos it means I am able to do lots of repetitions whilst keeping her arousal and adrenaline levels in a good range for learning.
It’s interesting as having trained her using this as our foundation method, I can do the exercises that you have mentioned as it is one in our repertoire. She actually stops well when in a retrieve context, whether it’s on the run out or when she is hunting in the area of fall. I agree that it is a great little exercise.
The situation we were seeing it fall apart in was when she was beating so hunting for live game, so I just wanted to brush up the foundations for a little while and then I’ve moved back to re-proofing it more in highly scented and higher arousal situations. If you have any specific exercises that you think could be useful for that specific scenario I’d love to hear them. 😊
Great clear video thank you
brilliant video. thank you so much.
I’m really glad you liked it! 😊
Another great training video 👍🏻
Thank you!😄
Fab video
I’m glad you liked it 😊
Hi I like your videos picked up some good tips thankyou x
Thank you, I’m so glad you like the videos and have found them helpful! 😊
Hello. You mentioned another dog that this method would not work with. My dog is the same. To clever & will not go on fake throw. How would you teach the stop to a dog like that please? I’m really struggling.
Hi there, I have a folder saved on my page called “stop whistle” which includes a few different videos with a couple of different approaches for teaching the stop. This video where I’m creating a hot spot area works with dogs that are too clever for the fake throw method. As you build the value in the dog staying by the target which allows you to pair the stop whistle with the dog stopping at distance from you. I hope one of the videos in that folder might be helpful for you.
Really useful 👍
Oh I'm so glad you found it useful!
Hi, Great vid and content! Where did you get your marker posts from?
Sorry for such a delayed response, I have been off of CZcams for the last year or so. If you are still interested you can buy the marker posts from Muntjac Trading, here’s the link: www.muntjactrading.com/products/marking-stick
@@SpanielTrainingDiaries believe it or not I'm still interested. just bought some there. thank you 😀
Exactly what I wanted to ask! Wasn't sure what they were called when searching for them online. Thanks for responding!
If you had corrected the dog for not stopping it would of learnt
Yes it may well have done, but it’s just my personal preference not to train like that. Everyone trains in a way that they are comfortable with and so in this instance instead of correcting her I decided to break our training down a bit and strengthen up her foundation understanding of the cue.
@@SpanielTrainingDiaries are you purely positive I assume?
@@davidbolderstone6914 if I’m thinking with a “purest” mindset then no I’m not positive only. If I was to label my training style I’d probably call it reward based and force free. So I choose not to physically correct my dogs but I will use a verbal interrupter on occasion for example if Ivy goes to run in.
And if I get my training geek hat on, if using the term positive with its scientific meaning when looking at the four quadrants of learning I will also use negative punishment in my training; like taking away a dummy if they take the wrong cast for example, as that would be classes as negative because I remove the dummy, and it’s classed as punishment because it is done to reduce the likelihood of the behaviour of taking the wrong cast from reoccurring.
I’m not a big fan of the various training labels as I think everyone just trains in the way that works, makes sense and feels right for them. I genuinely don’t think their is a right or wrong way it’s all just personal preference. Sorry I rambled a bit there both hopefully that makes some sense.
@@davidbolderstone6914 I think this training is really just for pet dogs not real working dogs. I doubt the dog would be capable of being in a hot situation, I don't know why they have to use food rewards the retrieve *Is the reward, food often just complicates things. Maybe the trainer doesn't realise that a correction can be just placing the dog back on the spot where the the whistle was blown, showing the dog where is should be, the dog is just looking for food and not joining the dots.
@@SpanielTrainingDiaries understand what you are saying about labels. Please don't think me being argumentative, just constructive criticism of I may. To be honest there is no such thing as purely positive as putting a dog on a lead is negative. The four quadrants are great but there are times a physical punishment is required. I don't mean cruel or nasty just a leash correction. To re enforce a taught behaviour
Thanks for your direction.Do you think I am storing up future training problems by playing tug of war with my 10 week old cocker? Carry on the good work.
Hi John, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos!
I think tug, when done well, can be a great game to play with a dog and it can be used as a really highly valuable reward if your pup enjoys it.
My key things if playing tug is that you need to always have a clear start and end point. So to teach this with a young dog I would have a cue for tugging that I say just before I bring the toy out and start playing. And you need to develop a strong, conflict free drop cue as your end point. With a young dog I would generally do this with a swap for food, so whlist playing I would stop tugging and say my drop cue, I would then scatter a load of food on the floor, this so mean the dog will release the toy to eat the food and in turn drops the item. Then once they have eaten the food you can cue to start playing again or put the toy away. Over time and with repetition this will help you to develop your drop cue, without creating any conflict.
I also think you are best to have specific toys that you use for tugging, which are different from your retrieve articles to help make sure there is a clear distinctuion between play toys and training equitment. And you just need to be careful to monitor the excitment levels, particularly with a pup as they don't yet know when to stop. So if you find them getting over excited or if they start getting bitey then I'd end the game and let them have a chill out to help them calm back down.
I hope that makes sense. :)
La la la Love it!
Thank you! 😄
Hi,iv started to follow your videos and techniques.may I ask which patè you use? Iv tried using my dogs kibble but it’s not a good enough reward.thank you and keep up the good work 👍 I’m always sharing your videos on fb too if somone is struggling with training!!
I use JR Pet Product Pate as treats most of the time. I use all their different flavours and my two love them all!
If you’ve not shopped with the before uou can get 10% off your first order by using my referral code. Just follow the link below and quote the coupon code: ref1717806
www.jrpetproducts.com/?raf=ref1717806
Also thank you for sharing my videos, I really appreciate it! ☺️
Such a speedy response 🙏 will check them out as soon as I’m back home and will use the code np! Ty
I've been replicating the videos with my 15 week old, he is flying back everytime. I use a secure field with him, he doesnt run out far, but am very hesitant to let him off the lead in a field like you use. Can you give me a pointer on letting him off the lead at this point.
I would always recommend letting a puppy off lead as early as possible. Especially at 15 weeks as you will still be their safety blanket so they naturally tend to stay close which means you can start reinforcing that to build good habits now and that way you prevent issues in the future.
Something that was important for me with Ivy was teaching her that when the lead comes off it is a cue to look at me not a cue to bugger off. So I would play a lead off game with her every time I let her off. I would unclip the lead and then immediately feed her a string of treats/food. Then I would clip the lead back on, wait a few seconds and repeat. Then I would unclip the lead, give a string of treats and then play some engagement games with her off lead. I tended to start playing the “up down” game were I drop food for her to eat and then as soon as she looks back towards me I would click and drop another piece of food. I think I demonstrate that game with Tia in my engagement games video.
This approach has worked really well with Ivy, as now whenever I take the lead off she sits and looks at me waiting to be told what we’re going to do. And I do still reinforce this either with a treat, praise or the opportunity to do something she enjoys like being released to run around, sniff or hunt.
For me it’s just important to remember that it’s your dogs outing so your focus should be on them. I think issues start to arise when people let their dogs off just let the dog do whatever they want for the whole time, I believe it’s important to keep the dog engaged with you. I do release them to explore the environment for short periods but I still keep an eye on them and reward them for checking in with me during that free time. Also I like to keep things unpredictable when I’m letting my dogs off lead for free time, so I never just walk in one direction. In my mind I have a distance that I don’t want the dog to go further than so if the are getting close to that distance I will change direction, walk off the paths or just stop, all without saying anything to the dog. You tend to find that as soon as the dog stops you’re not where they expected you to be they will come charging back toward you. This helps to build the habit of the dog keeping an eye on you and never roaming too far.
Now is the prime time to start, as if you leave it too late you’ll be starting when the dog is in adolescence and getting more confident to roam which is when issues can arise if you’ve not started build good habits already. Kept it short and just have fun - good luck! 😊
Is it a good idea to start training this indoors first? The reason is that millie the sprocker is unable to keep it together once i let her in the garden. She will chase and bring a ball back but anything less exciting that this leads to her running around the perimiter sniffing for furries and chasing the odd seagull/aeroplane. She has come along very well indoors with her training but its the transition to the garden that seem to be too much for her.
Absolutely, I would always be aiming to start training new behaviours in a low distraction environment as that will help set the dog up for success. If they are finding the environment too distracting then often you can find that they are not in the right mind for learning.
Once you can get success in a low distraction environment reliably then you can start to gradually increase the environmental distractions, but if your dog struggles in the garden you can find somewhere outside that is slightly less exciting; often somewhere like a patio style courtyard, or a quite parking lot on a long line can be a good transition place as the ground is less scented and so less distracting for their powerful little noses.
@@SpanielTrainingDiaries oh those powerful little noses :). Thank you.
How long does it take for a dog to come back every time thank you
Hi Tara, I'm not sure I understand the question sorry. Are you asking about recall or the stop whistle?
Ultimately either way there is no set timeline for getting reliable behaviours, sorry as I know that is a bit of a cop out answer. But timelines can vary so much depending on the dog, the training, the level of consistency from us as handlers, what the criteria is for the perfect behaviour in the handlers eyes, what our training priorities are and so much more. I would say the key is to make sure you are using rewards and reinforcement that your dog truly values as that will increase their motivation to do the desired behaviours and make sure when you are training very gradually building up the difficultly factors to make sure wherever possible you are setting the dog up for success and that will help to make things click into place for them.
I've just bought a little springer bitch, didn't pick her up till 10 weeks. A problem I seem to be having with her is she isn't paying attention to me, she seems to be more interested in what she's doing. Any advice on switching her on to me would be very much appreciated. I think missing out on them first few young weeks has let her make to much of her own mind up
I would just focus on engagement games, bonding and play to help build a bond a relationship at this stage. That will help her to learn that great stuff happens when she pays attention to you and make it more likely to happen more often. I do have a video on some engagement games although it’s with an older dog so not completely puppy focused.
I used to use Ivy’s daily food allowance for games and engagement activities when she was a pup so she never ate out of a bowl and always got her dinner in a fun way with me, I found that worked well for us so could be something to try. I hope that helps. 😊
@@SpanielTrainingDiaries Thank you very much for the information and I'll definitely put that into practice and be sure to keep an eye on your videos. At this moment in time I'll take all the help I can get 😂. Thanks again 🙂
Do you think it's too late to use these training methods on a 4 year old dog? I've got a 4 year old and a 10 week old pup and I want to train the pup to the whistle, but feel I need to also train the 4 year old! Also, your jacket looks brilliant for holding everything needed! Where's it from? Many thanks!
Never too late, just start with the foundations and gradually build up at the dogs pace. 😊
Thank you the jacket is a Pinewood Ladies Dog Sport Vest, if you are in the UK they this seems to be their main stockist www.happyhotdogs.co.uk/collections/owners/vest Hope that helps!