The Best (or Craziest) Compost Bioreactor Design Ever!! (WILL YOU TRY IT???)
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- čas přidán 28. 06. 2024
- A new version of a Johnson-Su-inspired compost bioreactor. Is it a great idea or just a crazy idea that isn't practical? The unique design helps insulate the pile holding heat and moisture in while giving you feedstock for the next round of composting. Johnson-Su Bioreactor videos: • Johnson-Su Bioreactor ...
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Interesting concept, although I am curious how the wood chip would impact airflow, since the idea of the double ring reactor is that air only penetrates 1' into compost.
I think the wood chips would be permeable enough to let airflow in. You could also add some plastic tubes initially around the second ring if you thought this was a concern and remove them shortly after filling.
@@DiegoFooter i would be more likely to dig onto the pile sometime after filling and making sure it stays aerobic, than messing with pipes, since that is part of the reason for the double ring to begin with.
@@DiegoFooter I'd just assume that the total air penetration depth to be the same as a traditional Johnson Su (6" either side, total 12" or 1'), and so it would be 12" minus the thickness of the woodchips gives you your total air permeation into the pile up to 6" from the outer surface and then whatever else from the inside. There's some interesting mathematical models which maximize the surface area to volume ratio which you could theoretically implement but they aren't as easy to build and probably are outside of the scope of most people watching these videos.
A crowbar through the skin will let air in. It doesn't have to look pretty to work. Birds seem to do a lot of the work in my leaning tower. And the tomatoes growing out of it get transplanted into companion space with asparagus.
Wait, Johnson shows filling one of these with mostly wood chips, yet now they don't allow air flow?
Make the outer ring larger and line it with two layers of cardboard when filling it. The cardboard gets moist in the initial build up and attracts worms that make their way into the compost. Pierce the cardboard with a crowbar or flathead screwdriver. It worked in our wet NZ environment and we have usable compost that gets dropped out into a screen after nine months with the screenings innoculating the next batch. Cardboard is in weekly supply through our grocery store packaging, so it's a natural "use what you have" proposition even if you have to save the stuff for a few weeks. We continue to add mostly dry cow pat's during the drier summer months that supplies more microbial activity when wetted by autumn rains helping to increase the activity during winter ready for early spring planting.
First thing I thought of too... free and durable but compostable. Also as a lid
This kind of seems like more work than it would be worth. Just my opinion. Thanks for another video.
Maybe call this experiment “3ring circus” method?:-)
I modified your "Donut" bioreactor into a "horseshoe" open on one end so I would have easier access. It has been working great and as a bonus our chickens climb and scratch the top of it. It's a combination mostly of browns as I'm not in a hurry for it to make compost. I will add some grass clippings or chicken manure on the top to keep it covered when needed. It works surprisingly fast at reducing bulk. Airflow is the key to the process IMO.
My traditional winter compost pile is 6' by6' and about 5' tall to start. I pick up recyclable bagged leaves and circle the pile for insulation. When building the pile i space pvc pipes with1/2 inch holes to keep the pile aerobic throughout the winter. Last winter with temperature dipping down to -10 degrees F, the pile never got below 100 degrees F. This spring I had plenty of finished compost to add to my raised beds.
I like this idea because I do not have the need for large volumes of compost, and it is a ton of work.
I also invested in a microscope to see exactly what it is I am adding to my soil.
I like your thinking on this project, it's a one and done, plus you have the partially broken down wood chips for the following load.
Diego. I love it when you start to lose your bearing. I can hear your voice and see you start to grin. I laugh every time.
Can't help thinking of Lord of the Rings and "1 ring to rule them all" 🤣
I built one of your double ring reactors this fall. I used 5' and 1' diameter circles. I used 4' high fencing with 2" by 4" holes lined with 5' tall chicken wire. I like the 5' diameter better than 6' and I like it 5' tall so that I can get a huge amount of material in it. I wanted to go 6' tall, but it would have been too hard to load it.
My only mistake was loading it with shredded leaves that were too dry. I basically had to climb into it and unload most of it so that I could get it properly watered. Next time I will have the leaves soaking wet before they go into it. I used a huge amount of shredded leaves along with approximately 400 pounds of coffee grounds that I picked up at Starbucks.
It is not worth the time or effort to add a 3rd ring because it will also diminish the air flow going into it.
I need to finish filling it back up later today or over the weekend. Then it should be all set to sit over the next 4 or 5 months.
I did a similar thing. Sides too high to fill easily.
Just wrap it iin newspaper that you wet. With a mix of water with flour, you know paper mache style. When it hardens you can poke some holes in it.
It breaks down over the months is easy to repair if desired and the “mulch” isn’t stealing nitrogen from the pile.
Nice
Diego,
Great vid. Also I just found a bunch of interviews you did in long-form from 2+ years ago. Especially the Joel Salatin interview thats like 2+ hours is super good. You mentioned his book your farm business. You went into so much depth with such good questions, i gotta say thank you. 👍 Be well 👋
I have a diego double ring at the moment, same climate.
- I'm considering lining the second ring with palm fronds
-a hawk visits daily destroyed outer ring(just unsupported chicken wire
@2:19 I had a who run Bartertown Mad Max flashback
When you posted a previous video, I did mention in a posted comment the possible inclusion of a third ring full of mulch. My suggestion in that post was to also plant potatoes into the outer edge of the ring of inner composting material. As a result, the potatoe plants would push out from the compost ring they were planted in, and through the straw or wood chips that were used to mulch the outside 3rd ring. A water ring emitting irrigation on the top but quite near the outside of your middle compost ring would provide moisture to the potatoes, and by looking at the potato plants you can monitor if your watering is effective. The compost pile would be full of green foliage, providing more shade and a more pleasant appearance, and it makes use of the outer 'compost' which is the least likely of all your composting material to be of top quality due to this outer area lacking the full biological activity that always happens in the more central parts of the pile's contents. This would also give more biological life to your mulch and thus give you better material for the next composting process as you mention in this video. You might lose a bit of good compost to the potatoes, but you get potatoes! Great that you are giving this idea some thought, and I hope that if I don't take it on this season, that someone does, and lets you know about it. Take care, keep up your amazing work, and happy Solstice time.
What a great idea! I thoroughly enjoy double purpose builds too. I might have to try that! Have you built one like that yet?
@@sarahgracenadeau I havn't yet. If I can find some large page wire fencing scraps to build the hoops, I'll get on it.
I am trying simply filling a big bag with wet leaves and covering the top with a plastic and watering from time to time.
Time will tell but I don't see much difference with my actual Johnson-Su Bioreactor using a 1000L IBC.
The big bag is a bit smaller but once the leaves start to settle volume seem to be equal.
hombre inteligente----MUCHAS GRACIAS DIEGO por tus ideas----saludos desde España.
You stole my idea! I already have one here in Northern Maine. I’m 38 days into it. It held above the magic 131F for almostI 30 days before cooling off when it dropped to -3F one night. I did it for insulation, but it was also going to be “mulch” when I build 2 more next spring. I didn’t use wood Chips, I used straw. Almost everything your saying (I’m typing while I listen) about cycling the stuff to the inside I already have done it, or planned out.
Only joking about you stealing my idea. But it did feel like you had taken up residence in my head. But for the record. The only thing similar to yours is mine is round too. Same with any similarities with David Johnson’s design. It’s round! (Smaller then both) I have to check all the boxes, plus a few that fit my situation living north of the 46th Parallel. I am going for the Dr David Johnson end product though. Hopefully worms and all! Right through the brutal winters.
Harvesting from this would be a real hassle.
I also don't think it would prevent the compost from drying out.
If it does, then the outer layer of the compost itself might do pretty much the same thing.
If there is a real difference between how wood chips and compost dry out, maybe add an outer layer of woodchips without using the additional ring.
I would favor using perforated cardboard as an outer anti evaporation layer.
If cardboard isn't clean enough for you, try untreated wood slats.
At that point, your almost back to a bin made of pallets.
Add a center ring and you are good to go.
Woodchips hold 50% water. Straw holds 70%
Wouldn't recommend using anything the same particle size, if going to be just straw much it. But diversity is key in nature so make it key in compost
3 rings to rule them all
Brilliant Diego! I think it will work as the mulch can allow airflow and also keep it warmer in the wintertime and cooler in the summer! I had been thinking about a "container" myself to enclose the entire thing in winter and this fits the bill I think! WIll be interesting to see how it goes!
Do you really need to make an additional ring? I'm just thinking this through and wouldn't simply making the outer ring a few inches thicker do the same thing? From the other Johnson Su style reactors you've made and opened the outer surface was dry and a certain depth into the pile was moist and composted. To me that is the same principle. Adding wood chips to the outside would just increase the ratio of outer dry and inner moist. The same thing would happen if you simply make the outer ring larger and skip the 3rd ring mulch layer. Just my thoughts, thanks for all the videos.
Filter fabric doesn't stop evaporation - it's designed specifically to be permeable. Water/air passes right thru. Johnson used it simply to contain the small bits from falling out over time - your chicken wire does that just fine. No need for a third ring.
Love it!
Haha! I just made this by wrapping it with a sheet to keep my chickens from eating the shredded paper.
I like it!! I think it would work well.
Questions: should inner ring of organic material be offset by the outer mulch ring to maintain the 2' outer diameter to promote aerobic conditions?
Best way to efficiently fill outer rim?
Strength of structure would put chicken wire on inside of t-posts. Ease of access would put wire on outside of posts. Which way to go?
I used burlap from coffee bags and coconut coir mats instead of landscape fabric
Came across a channel. Steve from the Garden, he did a modified Johnson Su. He had great results and credited you aswell. Very cool. Hope someone tries this.
Cheers
Interesting concept. I understand what you are trying to do but I would just stick to the landscape fabric since it is easier.
My concern is for when the time comes where you are at the end of the cycle and are ready to remove the final product, it's going to actually be challenging to remove the wood chips from the third ring. It's going to fall on the ground. I like the idea of the third ring as it should really help, but, when the time comes, just let the wood chips fall to the ground.
Bacteria and fungi produce glues,Glomalin. So they don't get washed away like all other fertilizers that end up in are water system. So when you remove the metal outer ring nothing will happen, you can remove it after a week if you wanted.
Good soil looks like cottage cheese, nicely formed aggregates. This allows air flow and water retention
I like this idea. I suppose you could add a thin 4th ring for woodchips in the center so the inner material doesn't dry out as fast. I have been making my bioreactors using pallets with the latest one borrowing from your center area design. Moisture hasn't been much of a problem but my climate isn't as dry as yours.
You need 4 rings. One more ring with wood chips inside).
It was hard enough for me to build a 5' diameter and 1' diameter rings by myself. No way I am going to add 2 more rings to it. It would only decrease air flow.
3 is 9 Diego! I wouldn't mind follow a great mind into the multiverse
Hah, it was so nice moment when my mind flash idea in 1:27 of 3rd ring and fill it with wood chips. And after few moment you told same idea. I think here is something really good ideas and moments going on. Keep up good work!
Will this be the last Johnson-Su compost bioreactor video? I appreciate your non-stop compost vidoes but I hope you are going to continue your growing experiment videos. I have been wanting to do some experiments examining the effect of plant extract sprays (e.g. nettle tea) on BRIX plant sap levels. See Nigel Palmer...
It is that time of year when the most we do is prune our fruit trees, clean out the chicken pen, then build a compost pile. At least that's what I am doing here in Idaho. Not much growing aside from the kale, spinach, broccoli, and mustard greens. I am thankful Diego is at least making videos of the finished products. Everyone else who creates the first video never seems to follow up with the end product.
you could basically achieve the same effect with your basic improved design, you'd just need to be strategic when filling the reactor, making sure to put some wood chips to the side of the outer ring each time you put the matter in the middle, it's a little more work if you are going to fill it all at once, but if you are filling it as you go it will only take a minute every couple of days...
I prefer the KISS principle by the original inventors, Johnson / Su. I have been using a smaller home version and it worked exactly as Dr. Johnson’s version, with the same ingredients. I did make one directly on the soil and found that worms had populated the Bio Reactor on their own, hundreds of them.
After we sprayed the extract on the garden beds, we noticed the following year hundreds of worms in all the beds, they had self populated on an explosive scale, guess the worms love the extract. So like I said why reinvent the wheel, the Original works fine.
A 6 inch outer ring might be easier to fill up than a 3 inch one.
It all seems a bit over complicated. I have a two bin system made with wooden pallets lined with cardboard. One gets filled over the year, then in autumn gets turned into the second bin next to it. The bin that was filled the previous year has been laid on the soil to mulch, feed, protect the soil over the winter months ready to be planted into in the spring. I also have a pile of wood chips and leaves left to rot down to use as mulch when ready. I think this makes thinks more simple than building ever more complex bioreactors….
Yeah, nature handle it well. I have a very similiar setup with wood pellets. I turn it from bin 1 to bin 2, when bin 1 is full of material. When turning into bin 2 i add some horse manure from a neighbor.
I only water it a few times per year, but i live in a wetter climate. I remove compost from bin 2 when it seems sufficiently broken down.
Simple. Cheap. A low work approach. But it is a slow process that require a little extra space.
You crazy bastard! I love it!🤠🤠💗🤣
I like the innovation
Seems like you're just making a bigger compost pile lol... compost is mulch, just returning to nutrient cycling. The more broken down goodness is always in the middle, so just take that already dry outer mulch layer and use it for next compost or mulch your beds. You'd be surprised how much life is in "not ready"compost.
Woodchips won't decompose without fungi.
You can add King stropharia and beech(hypsizygus) mushroom spawn to your compost after the thermophilic phase and inoculate your beds by spreading spawn under mulch layer in the drip zone of plants and in your wood walking paths. Both mushrooms work great with plants and hypsizygus is know to work with mycorrhizal and will speed up the process. Get the NH4 back in your soil with fungi.
Sorry for the rant Diego , thanks for putting the time into everything
My first thought (rather then having to by more expensive metal fencing, if you can source it free that would be a different matter) was to line the inside of the bio-reactor with cardboard (maybe a couple of layers) before filling. You could also cover the top of the compost with cardboard too. That seems like it would provide the best of the mulch idea with out having to use more inputs.
What about stuffing the 3rd ring w Sudan?
I think I'll just look at the outer edge of ring two as the insulation. If the out side stuff is dry and not composted when harvesting I'll just return it to the bin or use it as carbon in my worm bins. Just using the inner compost.
I've built two of the double ring bioreactors, and I think it would be too much work and money to add a third ring. I hate working with chicken wire, and the cost per reactor is already as much as I would want to spend. Any more isn't worth it.
I actually built a very similar reactor behind our garage here. It's 6 feet high, but I did an inner diameter of 1 foot and our diameter of 5 feet. It seems to be working out OK, though I haven't done the best job keeping it watered. Anyway, I would really not suggest using burlap. In my seasonally wet climate it just breaks down too quickly. I had to add cardboard boxes to keep everything in, which works way better but probably significantly reduces airflow. I think I'm just going to have to spend the money on fence mesh.
The third ring just becomes the dry layer that the outside of the compost was. I don't know that there's an improvement in the compost produced per unit of material (or labor).
Love the concept. Maybe move soil up around outside if you have some
❤❤❤❤ the idea
In that same vein, what if fill the middle with extremely large branches and chunks of wood. Like think jumbo size wood chips that allow a lot of air flow but still hold some moisture and keep some evaporation down
Crazy idea and I thing that you overcomplicate this topic. I know that thinking and designing is a wonderful process, I like this also but many times I catch myself that I'm overcomplicating things instead keeping them as simple as possible.
Cześć🖐 widzę że masz tu kilkanaście komentarzy czy to oznacza że bioreaktor już został zbudowany w Polsce?
@@andrzejleszczynski4487 siemka.
Nie, zamiast bioreaktora wolę rozwiązanie kury+kompost :)
I'm interested to see the results of a test like this.
Every thing I have learned so far about this system has a heavy enphasince on air flow. Will the wood chips slow the airflow and cause the system to go anaerobic.
For it to be fully accurate in your testing you must get your compost tested.
Seems about as easy to just sift out the drier outer layer of the main ring and recycle that back into the system.
I had been thinking about purchasing some hay bales to insulate the outside of the system in my cold-winter climate. I like this idea better. Probably would go with 6" or so of chips, and increase the number of vertical 'chimneys'.
What about something like sheepswool or hempfibre insulation? wouldnt need to do a lot of the work/structure mentioned in the video, could just wrap it round until you have as much 'mulch' as you require? more costly of course.
What if we had a cone shape center and just made a pile. Then don't need any wire at all, and cover the pile with wood chips at the end.
Omg Diego! You have some bat §%~[ crazy! It's awesome! Especially the insulation ring!
THE OUTER RING WOULD/COULD LIMIT AIRFLOW. Sandwich PVC tubes with holes every foot in the woodchip ring to insure adequate air penetration. I'm doing this in the spring, Thanks Diego!
The whole point of the reactor tho is air penetration if air can only reach a foot into the pile from the open sides wouldn't it mess up the math if you add 3 to 6inches extra on the outside or anywhere you would need to add another air layer or tubs if not the whole pile wouldn't be aerated then you could potentially start making your pile go anaerobic , in turn slow down decomp and even start making a habitat for anaerobic microbes and pathogens to thrive witch we don't really want????
It'll go back aerobic just wait longer and let the worms do their job
I have made a Diego donut last April using mesh, roofing fabric. It's a bit smaller diameter because that was my mesh size. The inner ring is 30 cm diameter. So far it's filled with migrating bird droppings and sawdust. Just recently I have topped them up with frozen pumpkin leaves and mulberry and poplar leaves. It had a few worms added but who knows if they have survived. Personally, I don't think I will try the extra ring. I like being able to top up the main compost ring with finer and finer material.
Where do you get all those droppings? That’s a cool resource.
@@DiegoFooter the birds pick two Central parks in Chihuahua. The gardeners were filling tip trucks up and taking it to the dump. We paid them to fill up chicken feed bags and we managed to obtain five Ute loads. Since the municipal government sees the birds as a health hazard, I'll have to see if we can get some more this year. The weather has been warm and the birds haven't migrated so far.
Our neighbors have horses with an uncleaned pen. The bioreactor filled up with fly maggots to my horror, but then an army of large black ants carried them all away. I wonder if half the nutrients went into the ants nest. Our fly numbers actually decreased dramatically.
What about just lining the outer ring with cardboard/newspaper?
What a mad lad
Nice idea, but wouldn’t be easier to just use cartboard atached do the outside os the rings? And, you could meke some perfurations to keep the airation…
Thanks for the idea. I agree with your solution for using woodchip as a supporting structure in order to eliminating plastic but it's not going to retain water due to it being an exposed surfaces (inner ring, outer ring, top) and above ground. You also have convection due to biological activity that will move air through the pile. Mulch on the ground is "capping" only one surface minimizing evaporation. There is no airflow since the ground is its own barrier. Your idea for composting can still work but you'll need to keep the outer ring moist with a slow drip irrigation. That's my opinion.
Why not put a layer of cardboard around the inner surface of bioreactor to retain the moisture? Free, allows oxegen exchange, retains moisture, insulates and can be used in next version of bioreactor.
I agree with the cardboard I am also in Nz, I line my conventional NZ designed squares of timber stacked which has spaces between the layers. I line with cardboard and also use cardboard as another carbon layer. this blows loads of air to flow, moisture stays evenly through the year ( my compost is ready full stack til usable about 3 months) I can bury a trapped pest body or deceased hen and have nothing but the largest bone left at the end of this time - all fur/feathers totally gone)
Diego, I was listening to the podcast the other day with the guy who is ceo of Malibu Compost. Thought it interesting that he said he'd never use horse manure. Of course I listened to that after watching your conclusion video on the year of horse manure composting. You also me toon manure here too. Are you at all worried about dewormer or antibiotics in your compost? I live in Amish country so I could probably get my hands on plenty of horse manure but now I'm having second thoughts.
How is your compost going? Very curious to see your follow up in the near future.
he said he wasn't going to do this so he could focus on growing stuff
I think it's interesting, but part of the point of the dimensions is that air only penetrates about a foot. With woodchips that's cutting down on the actual compost feedstock you can put in compared to without.
Overthinking for sure...and first I would challenge the assertion that bioreactors are superior to piles. Piles are accessible and easily turnable/harvested from, and require far less input. They may take up more space and take longer to break down, but in terms of investment resources, they reign. Various tribes throughout history (Mound people, terra preta cultures) concentrated their detritus to form the most productive and still unmatched soils the world has ever seen.
We seriously need to make the leap into suburban farming, and though this tech shimmers as a solution, I feel my time and water resources could be spent better on building bigger and more effective piles.
Nonsense.
I am hopeful that the 5' diameter Diego bio reactor that I built a few months ago will be far superior to compost mounds. I am composting shredded leaves with approximately 400 pounds of coffee grounds mixed in. I will know by Spring if it works as planned.
A comment without any discussion of anaerobic decomposition vs aerobic decomposition is pointless.
Dr Johnson invested years of professional time as a PHD biologist studying piles that without turning led to anaerobic decomposition. He turned them regularly to avoid anaerobic conditions.
He failed to create what he considered an acceptable composting technique via big piles and turning.
He stumbled on the Johnson-Su bioreacting composter design and found it created superior compost.
Diego hasn’t talked about that aspect of the bioreactor, perhaps because 2ft between the inner and outer ring is too thick. I’m going to build a ring bioreactor this spring, but I’m going to use 1ft between the rings to ensure oxygen can get to the full pile.
@@trendinvestor2893 How is it coming along?
i tried piling, but there's too much unbroken down material to pick through at any point because the pile i make gets added to over time with any plant matter... and probably has spoiled parts because i have left it way too long without turning most of the time.
i just want an efficient compost that is set once so that it is simply ready after less time and is also fungal dominant, so i'm going for more upfront effort this year on a compost system/structure
at the 1:22 mark I am sure you meant to say "moist" instead of "dry"... love your channel by the way!
I wouldn’t do it, but I might use twine to secure rotten hay around it (because I have it).
Also, what’s in the trash cans?
I might do this. I would however make an attempt to increase surface area exposure to airflow. I would also like to experiment with the incorporation of rocket stove principle architecture for the airflow, IE horizontal air inlets at ground level in a radiant pattern connecting to the central air chamber/flue. The heat convection may well create an accelerated conversion :{)
Next idea is straw mat on the inside of the outside ring. 👍 for compost artist.
One ring to rule them all...
Why not put cardboard on the inside of your ring to keep inside moist? And if that would-be keep air out of it to much, juist make some holes in the cardboard.
wrapping compost in roadkill leather, brb
Have you ever heard of a hose ? streamlined ? easy ? - how do you turn the pile ?
You never turn the pile.
If you watch the other videos all of these questions will be answered.
Why not use straw bales for outer layer
É duplicação de trabalho e material. Muito mais simples cavar um buraco e pôr um tubo, ou vários, de rede. Fazer a pilha e cobrir com relva recém cortada. Ela formará o mulch. Vá adicionando material e termine sempre com a relva recém cortada. Quando chegar a altura de usar o composto estará pronto. Se não tiver espaço para fazer o composto, use o conceito de balde do lixo
Have you or anyone ever side by side biologically tested the difference between the traditional Johnson-su and your improved design?
OR, line the inside of the outer wall with cardboard....????
What about the worms in the compost?
Sounds interesting but I’m entirely too lazy to build something like that instead of dumping material in a stall and walking away.
What if you dig a hole and compost below ground?
Because you would not get good air flow.
@@trendinvestor2893 - Depends on how it is designed. The benefit of already in ground micro-organisms may outweigh the chances of the pile going anaerobic.
@@3dcrazy332
My 2 ring Diego bioreactor is built on the ground so the worms will definitely find their way in.
I can get coffee bean sacks for free -- Kicking Horse Coffee. Are these sacks ok to use as mulch in the garden?
Shouldn’t there be a fourth ring in the middle for the same reason?
The center kinda has a wind barrier all the way around it.
no pallet?
I make raised beds with metal mesh and rebar and I Use large sheets of cardboard behind the metal mesh on the outer layer. The cardboard seems to hold up for a couple of years. This might be a good solution to hold in more moisture. Perhaps poking holes in the cardboard would help with getting more air into the compost. You can find large sheets of cardboard everywhere. 🖖🏻
How large are the openings of the metal mesh, hkw far did you space the rebar and whats the largest dimensions of a raised bed that you've made in this configuation, specifically how tall and wide of a raised bed, as I would like to try if I can make one tall enough, instead of using metall roofing for the sides, thanks
Hey Diego, I'm Benny, B-E-N-N-Y. My question is WTF? And why didn't those clowns, doctors Johnson and Su think of this, never mind all those pallets they could have saved?
Kkkk ..I like it too and I am H-a-N-s.
Here are some variations on the Johnson-Su bioreactor:
czcams.com/video/0WjBV9GuuvY/video.html
You're making this waaay to difficult/hard/complex, my man.
Agreed. Consider it a thought exercise to inspire other ideas. 💡
@@DiegoFooter
OK. And you and I already agree that wood chips are best used for paths in the garden, not for composting.
🎯 reactor
Does this reactor get hot like hot composting?
How about a fibonacci spiral...lmfao
Overly complex. Just go back to basics and it will work.
Keep it simple.
O hey
Whats the matter
From INDIA
You won't be 12" away from air on your outer ring if you do that.
Hey Diego! I would not try it.... I think we are in the same composting camp that composting should be simple enough or you arent going to do it. If it were me, and the drying out of the compost outside is a concern, and we had the stipulation of no plastic, the route i would go is corrugated roofing tin. I believe they come in 10 foot lengths. i would cut them in half and stand them vertically, the corrugations will let them bend into the curve and you can still use the 6" x 6" wire mesh to contain them in a circle. No need for the chicken wire. I would be curious to see, if you have the room, to make 3 versions at the same time. 2' inner core, 1' inner core and no core. Fill them all together with the same material and see how the decomposition is after a year to see if the airflow really makes a difference?? Cheers!