I am running clayton machine works pedals and have that kit. Same damn problem. Have to cut into the firewall a little to make up where the rod is trying to come through the firewall. Love buying kits to allow me to use factory holes/positions, just to cut more stuff. I don't mind but what a pain in the ass. Glad this video confirms what I am about to do with mine.
Just found your channel yeserday. Did this same McLeod conversion back in October. I went through the exact range of emotions and WTF moments. But the results are worth it.
Hello Steve would you know what size brake booster you have? Is that a 9 inch? Im thinking of going with a 7 inch. Thanks in advanced. It’s a 1970 Nova 400 Sbc 4spd Muncie. I got the McLeod kit that’s why I’m here. Great video by the way!
Hello, I'm going to be installing a hydraulic TB soon on my 71 Camaro. I will have to install a hydraulic clutch too. Naturally the fenders have some rust behind the wheels. I'm positive they came from the factory with rust holes in those locations :) I need to remove the fenders to properly repair the rust and the bracing. With the fender removed removing the inner wheel well is just some bolts. I'm thinking that should really open up access to that area. What do you think? Thanks!
Without pictures of what you're trying to achieve, it's hard to give advice, but it sounds like the main part is to fix the rust so it sounds like you have to remove those fenders etc. to get to it all.
Hi great video can I get the part number for the kit for the firewall and the kit for the slave cylinder thank you or Where did you buy it I have a 72 Nova with a T5 but I read the the T 56 and T5 have the same slave cylinder
5:00 HAHAHAHA ! The look on your face says it all. Trying to do this in my Camaro right now.....Shitshow ! I already had the pedal box in the car for a manual, the bolt to hold the heim joint is too long to install with the pedal in place. I guess I will have to back the pedal out a bit to insert the bolt? Damn good thing I've had to remove the pedals several times...now I'm good at it. I think I should have dropped the column when I started.....
Let me help lol. Take the clip off the pin that holds all the pedals together and slide it towards the e brake pedal just enough to get that long bolt in. Don’t forget to clean the hole out with a file.. my bolt didn’t fit until I cleared out the powder coating.
Slide the clutch pedal towards e brake pedal once that pin is taken care of. No need to pull the pin all the way out, or remove pedal box. On issue I had was the studs for the brake MC were to short and needed to be swapped out. ( running manual brakes)
I am running clayton machine works pedals and have that kit. Same damn problem. Have to cut into the firewall a little to make up where the rod is trying to come through the firewall. Love buying kits to allow me to use factory holes/positions, just to cut more stuff. I don't mind but what a pain in the ass. Glad this video confirms what I am about to do with mine.
Just found your channel yeserday. Did this same McLeod conversion back in October. I went through the exact range of emotions and WTF moments. But the results are worth it.
Definitely worth it. No complaints once it's all done!
Can I also get the brake booster number too I got the same McLeod master cylinder kit thank you I also bought all new hard brake lines
I am going with a similar set up.. I'm glad I found your channel! nice videos
Hello Steve would you know what size brake booster you have? Is that a 9 inch? Im thinking of going with a 7 inch. Thanks in advanced.
It’s a 1970 Nova 400 Sbc 4spd Muncie. I got the McLeod kit that’s why I’m here. Great video by the way!
Hey good to hear from you! Yeah I believe mine is a 9 inch. Definitely much smaller than the original.
Good job
Thank you!
Hello, I'm going to be installing a hydraulic TB soon on my 71 Camaro. I will have to install a hydraulic clutch too. Naturally the fenders have some rust behind the wheels. I'm positive they came from the factory with rust holes in those locations :) I need to remove the fenders to properly repair the rust and the bracing. With the fender removed removing the inner wheel well is just some bolts. I'm thinking that should really open up access to that area. What do you think? Thanks!
Without pictures of what you're trying to achieve, it's hard to give advice, but it sounds like the main part is to fix the rust so it sounds like you have to remove those fenders etc. to get to it all.
Hi great video can I get the part number for the kit for the firewall and the kit for the slave cylinder thank you or Where did you buy it I have a 72 Nova with a T5 but I read the the T 56 and T5 have the same slave cylinder
www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-1434002
@@stevesgarage7644 Nice I just ordered that same conversion thanks
Any thought to removing the front wheel and removing the inner fenderwell to better access the firewall from below?
That would be a lot of work is my guess.
Only a couple bolts takes about 5 minutes
All I have to get answer just what transmission was you running t56 or something else part number for slave cylinder thanks
I installed the AR5 transmission. Way cheaper and just as strong if not stronger.
Does this work well with your ar5?
5:00 HAHAHAHA ! The look on your face says it all. Trying to do this in my Camaro right now.....Shitshow !
I already had the pedal box in the car for a manual, the bolt to hold the heim joint is too long to install with the pedal in place. I guess I will have to back the pedal out a bit to insert the bolt? Damn good thing I've had to remove the pedals several times...now I'm good at it.
I think I should have dropped the column when I started.....
I know right? Isn't it one of the dumbest designs you've ever seen?! What a frustrating job that was.
Let me help lol. Take the clip off the pin that holds all the pedals together and slide it towards the e brake pedal just enough to get that long bolt in. Don’t forget to clean the hole out with a file.. my bolt didn’t fit until I cleared out the powder coating.
Slide the clutch pedal towards e brake pedal once that pin is taken care of. No need to pull the pin all the way out, or remove pedal box. On issue I had was the studs for the brake MC were to short and needed to be swapped out. ( running manual brakes)