1967 Jeep CJ5 Vintage Powr-Lok Limited Slip Install!
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- čas přidán 5. 04. 2023
- 1967 Jeep cj5 vintage powr-lok limited slip install! A limited slip is a great alternative to a full time locker offering similar off road results without the full time lock between tires. This Powr-Lok made by Dana Spicer has been preserved for decades waiting to be used. Some hard lessons are learned on this install but the results should be worth the trouble! This install is for a Jeep CJ5 with a Dana 27 front axle but can be made to work with CJ2A, CJ3A, and CJ3B Willys Jeep with a Dana 25 axle. I can’t wait to take this thing off road and break it in!
Spindle Nut Socket:
www.morris4x4center.com/spind...
Carrier Bearing Puller:
GXL Carrier & Pinion Bearing Puller Dana 30, 40, 60, 70, 80, Ford 10.25 Clamshell Design a.co/d/ao9QaWe
Article on Powr-Lok:
www.motortrend.com/how-to/dan...
#jeep #4x4 #classic #installation #willysjeep
Great video - thanks for posting. Really like the way you always try to do stuff on a budget and explain the pros and cons of how your projects turn out.
I really appreciate the feedback back! Thank you for watching!
Great video. I just opened up the diff covers on my project to find these already installed. It’s great to see some more about them.
Man that’s awesome you got lucky!
What I've done when setting up diffs is usually buy two sets of bearings, grind the inside of one set so you can take them on and off by hand. Use that second set as your "setup" bearings so it's easier to swap shims from side to side without having to pull/press the bearings on/off the carrier. Great video, love the CJ5.
That’s a great idea I wish I hadn’t cut that one bearing off I could have used the old ones for that! Thank you!
They make the Power Lock for the mod. 30 also. I got mine from a Commando with a 30 in the rear. All you need to do
to your Jeep now is get a Warn O’drive which will give you 3-20 final drive. You will need the O’drive with 6 spline main shaft if you have a T-86 or T-90 trans. If you have a T-14 the main shaft will be 10 spline.
I might have an overdrive sitting on the shelf 😉 Thanks!
Motivated!!!
Shoot yeah!
Great Video!
Thank you!
Just as a FYI, the guts for this Dana 44 limited slip are the same as the sure-grip Dodge used in the 8-3/4
I need a side splined hub for the clutch pack when i installed a sure-grip in my 69 d100
That’s good to know thank you!
When I was young, I had a 55 cj5 that I put a powerlock in the rear axle. It was a really nice addition for the desert driving conditions. Now I am older, and happen to have another 55 cj5, but have noticed those old limited slips are all but extinct!!? Too bad, alot of the older upgrades from the 60s, & 70s are getting hard to find
Yeah you gotta keep your eye out to find those gold nuggets!
Another great video
Thank you!
Another great video. I have thoughts of selling my 63 M38A1 and than I see one of your videos and makes me rethink things.
You’ll be happy you held onto it 😉 Thank you!
Hey young man,. You always get a thumbs up from me. Thanks for another great video.
Don't forget to add a bottle of limited slip additive for those clutches in your front differential, otherwise there is a possibility they can get damaged.
Take some advice from a old timer
With as worn as those old carriers
Bearings were, you should replace the pinion bearings also, the shims might be spot on, the little bit of extra back lash you seen is likely to be wear in the pinion bearings.
It has also been my experience that when you have a leaking pinion seal ,
That it is often do to excessive play in the pinion bearings.
My self personally I like that Dana limited slip Carrier, and it is liable to be made from better quality steel than one of those Lock Right differential sets, and not only that but they are less likely to fail and leave you stranded, if the clutches wear out it usually just works like a open differential. If you wear out a Lock Right they don't want to work at all.
I think it is really cool that you are able to find new old stock parts,
Much of the stuff these days isn't always made with the same quality.
I am not sure if you are aware of it but Permatex makes a RTV formula for differentials and transfer cases .
It is designed just for gear oil and transfer case oil that has additives so it can hold up beater with less chance of leaking , it is part number 81182.
I used it for my transfer case rebuild a couple years ago and so far I haven't had any issues with leaks.
Keep up the great work.
Hope to see another video from you soon.
Tim from Wisconsin.
That’s a good point I’ll have to find some. I never thought about the difference in them failing. Thank you for sharing all this information I really appreciate it!
Another great video. I put the powertrax locker in the front and the rear. I’m just gonna leave the hubs locked and shift it in and out upfront.
Awesome, thank you!
Having a 74 with a D44R and a Detroit made the CJ go waaay further and climb easier then in the D30F I added a Power Lok and it went easier and a bit further yet. Honestly the Power Lok is probably the best "limited slip" out there in my oooold JEEPER opinion. Ran the set up for several years which worked great, but admittedly I moved to a Lock Right... only cause eventually the clutches will wear out on the Power Lok was new to the market & a true locker, but your set up is now 90+%... where stock is 50%... it will be point & shoot. Your plan to get the proper backlash set up is wise... Well done ! it's going to be a fun Jeep once the set up is dialed in, make that even FUNNER !
Glad to hear you had a lot of success with this setup! I’d say I’ll do the same as you when the powr lok wears out I’ll swap in a lock right! Thanks!
@@SevenBarSalvage DOH ! I actually meant that the Lock Right was new to the market & a true locker... not the Power Lok. 😵💫
I feel you're pain I destroyed a input shaft bearing the other day trying the same thing you did with the press lol
It happens 😝
I like your thinking how to do these things on a budget, I do the same sort of things. You mentioned replacing the pinion seals, so maybe when you do that on the front diff, if you're replacing the bearings, maybe set the pinion one shim further in - might be close enough not to worry about it.
That’s a good point might kill 2 birds with 1 stone, thanks!
Absolutely always awesome content!!
Really appreciate it!
Great video as always, Jacob. I'm with you on this...I wouldn't stress too much about the backlash. As you said, rear...yes, but in the front, when it's locked in, it's gonna be at low speed and that F-head sure isn't gonna beat up the drivetrain. As for the yuck inside...ha, you should have seen what mine looked like! Lol!
It was seriously like chocolate pudding. The rollers on the bearing we're totally destroyed...it was ugly. Since mine was out, I disassembled the whole thing and took it to a machine shop and had it hot tanked, baked and then I started from scratch. I did that with both diffs. For knuckle grease, I used what Sam at "Parts Dude 4X4" recommend and that was John Deere corn head grease. It was like exactly the correct consistency, is water proof and, comes in a grease gun tube for easy filling through the plug hole. One tube was just enough.
Keep up the good work, bud!
I’m glad you agree! Man you always go the extra mile and it shows! I’m gonna have to look into the corn head grease I keep hearing about it. Thank you I appreciate it!
@@SevenBarSalvage 😊
I have watched this video and your video on the lock-right in the rear. Great job of showing it all. One question. I have watched other videos about working with differentials and the presenters make it seem so complicated, your videos encourage me to get on with doing the 23 and 25 on my CJ2. Why in other videos do they need to use a differential case spreader? Watching you that seems an unnecessary complication. I have the same aversion that you do towards spending big $$ on a tool that I will use once.
CV grease. You share my view, those are CV joints in the front axle. Use a proper grease rather than some home-made concoction trying to replicate the original lube.
I think case spreaders make it easier taking the carrier in and out but it’s not necessary I’ve never seen anyone actually use one. Something that got me into making videos is simplifying what people make look complicated. A lot of this stuff is really simple and basic but people throw a bunch of $3 words around and fancy tools. Corn head grease seems to be another favorite for the knuckles! Thank you for watching I appreciate it!
Becareful with wheel spacers
Curious with the clutch type limited slip do you need to add some special additive friction modifier to help protect the clutches?
yes you do. some come with it already mixed. also sold separately in small bottles.
@@ShnitzlHaus I know for sure older Chevy style limited slip models you had too up to the early 2000years .
Good point I’ll look into that, thanks!
@@SevenBarSalvage some like Lucas has friction modifier in it. If driving and you feel it grabbing or jerking you can add up to 1 full small bottle
I have a new powrlok in my rear 44 and filled with Lucas but I have yet to test.
Also. Did your instructions tell you how to run it in the first time.
I think it did mentioned jacking up 3 wheels or something I need to look into it more!
Steve.
I have a 1951 I believe cj3a.
Would like to replace engine with a newer model along with tranny. Also would like newer axels so I can drive on hiway for faster speed. Can you help with what I can replace with?
71-81 the cj5 had a narrow track Dana 30 that’s a pretty easy swap in and a good upgrade. If you could find a matching set with higher gear ratio it would help highway speed. As far as engine a Buick 225 is a pretty common swap for more power. It’s a scavenger hunt these days it’s took almost 3 years for me to find a Buick engine. Good luck!
Do you think turning breaks would work on a 44 GPW I am putting in a ford 9inch rear diff with a Detroit locker and a Dana 44 front wit ARB air locker?
Probably not
Hola, soy de Argentina, donde puedo comprar el Powr Lok, y que hagan envíos hasta mi país?
They have a website I’m not sure about international shipping though!
What rotor number is that?
What spacers do you use?
Rotors are for a 89-97 Geo tracker. Spacers are 1.5” thick. Thanks!
It will climb like a Cat.
Shoot yeah!!
save your money and rent or loaner at parts store
I looked around town maybe I didn’t look hard enough, thanks!