BMW R1200RT Rear Brake Pad Service
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- čas přidán 12. 11. 2018
- Changing rear brake pads on the R1200RT is easy with a few important details. I'll show you the process in this video from start to finish.
I didn't mention in the video that it's a good idea to check that the caliper slides back and forth easily on the greased pins underneath the rubber bellows. You can check this when the caliper is off the bike. Those greased pins allow the pads to self-center on the brake disc rotor. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for your very informative videos. I’m not mechanically inclined, but your videos give me the confidence to tackle more complicated jobs. It’s the little details that are invaluable. 👍👍
I'm really enjoying your tutorials I like your straight forward approach and tips, thanks :^)
Excellent video! I have a ‘12 R12R so this is very helpful!
Thank you for the video brother iam looking at a 2006 BMW K1200S 160miles in mint condition and i was researching how to do the brakes on it and this video is the best that i have seen yet so i believe it wont be that much different from the K1200s. Those bike all fall under the same style engines and framing.
Great video. Thank you for the recommendations and explanations.
and using these needle pliers to push the pistons back is a great tip! thanks!
Thanks for the information.
I always use oem bads. I know they are expensive. The feel is better and lasts much longer .
On the front, I get about 24k and
the rear, I've got about 45k, and they are still good. The next time I do the front. I'll replace the back next time I do the front.
Thanks good vid. I have an older BMW but this is a good tutorial.
Really great job. You explained and displayed it all perfectly. You should od voice overs or narrate books. You have a great voice for it 😀 Thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this, the rear brake caliper on my dad's old R1200GS is seized, and I'm using your video as a guide. It's very helpful, but I sure wish that you had shown how to put that stupid clip with the arrow on it back in :)
Add torque values for mounting bolts?
Good job 👍🏻
great videos
Thanks, Mine had the hole wear thru.
Wow--that's worn down! The idea of having that hole is not a bad one, but it still isn't that easy to check. With all the muck and brake dust that accumulates, plus where it's located, it isn't that easy to see.
Thanks for sharing.
Ii putting my rear brake back on, it did not want to go down in the front. The rear did. After some consideration, I took it back off, and the front clip was upside down....no slot for the disk.
It's easy sometimes to put things back together differently than they came apart! I usually try to put each component down in the orientation it came off to help me remember, or it doesn't hurt to take a picture for reference.
I follow your your video and after finishing my brake light failure comes out (2009 rt) Any ideas how to clear that? Brakes seem to be working.
My guess would be that your rear antilock sensor has an issue. It may not be fully seated, you could have a broken electrical cable, or you buggered it up somehow while working in there.
See 9:40 where I talk a little about it...
HI any chance of a video showing abs sensor checks. I am having some issues with the brake failure light staying on while driving and the speedo works intermittently and the cruise control id not working. I think it has something t do with the ABS or posibly a low battery. thn
anks
That is so weird! This is literally on my list to do next! It's pretty easy to check the ABS/wheel speed sensor with a cheap meter, at least for basic functionality. I'll try to get to this in the next few days if you can hang on.
@@tinderboxarts yes looking forward to seeing how to do it. Thanks love the videos. I'm back on a bike for the 1st time in 21 years and I love it. I have a 2011 1200rt
There was a slight delay, but I finally got the wheel sensor video up--you can find it here: czcams.com/video/XDsEQ3hAyQ8/video.html
is it nessessary to remove the complete brake sattle? would it work with just removing the pin, and pulling the pads out? ... hm, iam going to try this one... otherwise i need to remove the sattle too :)
nope, you need to remove the sattle, otherwise its kind a complicated to push the pistons back ;) worked fine!
Works ok with no caliber move for my R1200R - tight but possible with right tools. Good design.
I have an R9T Pure and the rear inboard pad is thinner than the outboard pad. I thought I had a wear problem, but replacement pads are of unequal width. One pad is 5mm, the other 7mm
Don't see the point to this as the inboard pad needs to be replaced, but the outboard pad is still thicker; at 10,000 miles of use.
I'm not really certain why this is either, other than the engineers may have figured one side gets more wear or heat due to the caliper design.
I’m glad you said that I was getting worried. I just ordered new pads and they look thin. BMW said they need replacing but looking at the new ones I don’t see a big difference. 🤷♂️
@@tinderboxarts, The inside pad wears more quickly on a single piston caliper because it's stationary and only has running clearance when the brake is off. The outboard pad can move away further because the piston retracts further. Not a problem as you've kept an eye on it.
@@tinderboxarts inner pad is thinner from factory.
I did everything right as you showed us, all perfect, but then I broke one of the freaking torx screw at the very end...
Note to self: Do not overtighen those sob torx screws because they will break, they are hard to find and they cost more than the pads.
Well, you've learned a valuable lesson about how tight a small bolt can be! For a replacement, the important thing is the right thread, the right head size and I think those are stainless. You don't need torx, though. If you find an allen "hex" head locally instead, that's fine.
Yeah, I busted one of mine the other day, oddly enough while trying to Unscrew it (which tells me one of the techs at the local BMW shop cross threaded it when they installed it, creating an entirely new batch of problems for me).
Anyhow... I bought some hex head bolts to replace the star head bolts (which are-- apparently-- made out of cheese), and the hex head bolts work JUST FINE.