Request from Mike Hirthler in the USA for some help on his Harley Heritage Softail brake light switch. usually the switch is not broken, just needs cleaning and freeing up ..
Thank you Steven thats very kind of you, we have tried very hard to keep the content improving, its not always been easy, CZcams has changed a lot over the years, and its great to still be involved.. take care and have a great weekend.. Del.
Hey Del thank you for leaving these videos up. I fixed the problem by spraying WD40 in. I loved when you asked a general question and Penny answered. I bet she could do most maintenance items on any bike by now. You have another tinder back on the road in Canada.
Thanks mate, am glad the video helped you... it's exactly this kind of content that we founded the Channel on in the first place all those years ago... so it's great that our core values are still being appreciated!
Your videos have been very helpful to me over the past few years. I've been able to fix things that on my Sporty that would have cost a lot at shops to repair. Thank you.
As always, thanks so much for the post. I just replaced throttle grips and messed up the switch, I was able to clean it with WD and plugged it back carefully and got it working as it should.
was having the same problem, so after watching your video I decided to check mine out. turns out it wasn't the switch sticking, it was the brake plunger not returning full stroke to keep pressure on the lever to keep the switch pushed in. there was some gunk in the fluid reservoir. cleaned it all out, put in new fluid and cleaned all around the plunger with WD-40 and now it returns all the way, the slop in the lever is gone and the light does not stay on! thanks for giving me a clue as where to start. saved a ton of money just cleaning things up myself!
Well done Steve.. glad you got it sorted out buddy, its not only cash effective to do it yourself, but I think it enhances the pride of ownership too to have the dignity in your own work....good on you fellah, take care and ride safe. Del.
Even though my Harley is under warranty you have saved me time, money, and travelling to the dealership. Your videos are very informative and your instructions are easy to follow. Thank you.
Thanks Marcus, you're most welcome Sir, glad they work for you... most the housekeeping jobs are not a dealer trip anyway! Ride safe my friend and well done, Del
Thanks Very Much! My rear brake light was staying on because the front lever switch stayed in the "ON" position. The end result of this was heat damage to the wiring in the rear light, and the light being on got to the point where the rear brake light lens softened up and split, thus letting in moisture and then exploding the bulb when water hit it. I have the factory manual for my Fatboy, and it doesn't even address this. 6 minutes on CZcams and my problem was solved.
Hey William, glad you got it sussed out buddy....there is a lot thats not in the manual, i guess they cant second guess every fault...thank god for the tube aye...puts us in touch wiuth each other too... take care fellah, and ride safe.. Del.
Thanks for another helpful video. My brake light was stuck on but I thought it wan't working. Anyway, after checking out the rear switch and test lighting the terminals, the test light lit up when I touched either terminal. It was then I realized the brake light was actually staying on all the time so I found your video. I followed the instructions, checked the switch and it was working.I cleaned it up and reinstalled the lever. Working properly again.
Appreciate this, i dropped my bike and I think something broke because my brake light has been messed up since. This gives me an easy way to check which part it is. Cheers
Your videos are so simple and helpful. I've commented in the past but now spring is almost here in the USA EAST COAST I wanted to review. Well I followed everything you did with great confidence after watching and listening. The problem did not go away. BUT with the confidence and thought process you gave me I figured out the brake handle was the problem. Crazy I know but after 16 years of riding the Harley softail replacing the actual brake lever the problem was solved. I will mention that the HD Brake and Clutch lever set I purchased are vastly better made. The old one looks like a casting the New ones appear more machined. Either way I would not have done it without your help.Thanks
Hi Anthony, thank you for the kind feedback Sir, am glad it helped you... it's a simple enough process, but tricky if you've never done it before... good luck with your future projects and thank you for your support... ride safe!
Cheers mate, that's Pennys' previous bike, and as she has small hands we needed to get the levers closer to the bar for her - they are a pretty cool trick accessory - made by Oberon, 6 way adjustable, which gives you 3 clicks closer than the OEM lever & actually 3 clicks further away for bigger hands - aircraft grade billet with a mechanism that would grace a watch - they do come at a price, but you get what you pay for - good luck with it, Del
I have a 2022 forty eight that would flash the brakes constantly due to the connection between the lever and the button. I ended up just bending the aluminum tab on the lever so it would engage on the butto more. Worked a treat
Good info, thanks. My mate got stung over 200 bucks from the Harley dealer to repair this. Mine cost me 20 minutes of my time plus some one on one time with my young bloke whilst we fixed it. Cheers
Hi Gary.. thanks for your kind comments.. the tool is just a little hand driver for the TX bits.... its fixed and not ratchet...its a little set, came with the driver, 7 bits from T-10H to T-40H and a little clip to hold them all.. its by "Clarke Pro", and its model number "PRO 39" Part number 1700439. Handy and great quality, as i said, cheap torx bits will screw up the bolt heads in no time and these are sharp and precise.. i think i paid about £20 for the set... hope that helps mate. Del.
Moonfleet41 Hope this isn't a forever thing! I found your videos and you have been extremely helpful with my recent purchase, a 2005 Sportster 883. Love the videos and excited to watch more!
Thanks Mr. I was scratching my head with this problem on a '92 soft-tail after watching you do it, Went to the driveway and fixed the issue in about 20 minutes. Now if I could fix the left fron turn signal I'll be able to get the wife off my back
Ok those units had dual wiring to feed both applications, so the next thing is to start tracing the connections starting at the back of the bulb and working back into the harness...
Thanks Michael, knowing that re-affirms exactly why we started posting and makes it all worthwhile my friend, good luck and thanks for your support, take care, Del
Cheers Del, glad this video is up, my Harley switch is doing the same, the light stays on and it takes a wiggle or two from the lever to get the light off, i'm going to try the wd40 trick and see if this helps. Legend as always. Jon.
Just found this channel...good on ya. Trouble shooting this "light stays on" problem now (after bringing it to a garage that buffooned it). Problem is intermittent so it ads to the challenge. Was ready to take that grip area apart yesterday but light started operating normal, brother took it out that day and problem back, time to turn wrenches ...Cheers from the USA
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks, Gremlins 1 Biker 0. static ops check good. road test fail returns...couple more ideas to try...really thought I had it when I found a loose housing screw.
Sir Delboy..... i love your videos and this is the first time i post a message. Finally mustered up the courage to take off my brake lever which was very straightforward...only a screw and a nut (btw ive got a sporty 2015) and found out that the pin which pushes the lever back to its place is on newer models enclosed in a rubber sleeve. However i did apply some all around silicone lubricant and pushed it a few times to get it all around and my brake lever works well... having said that it would be difficult to apply the red grease you have showed on another video with another harley, due to the pin being enclosed in the rubber sleeve, as opposed to the pin going in and out in an o type ring rubber. On another note i thank you both on all your videos on sportsters as i now have more confidence on working on mine. P.
Hi Padelis, don't worry, if you have the rubber boot over your switch, then it shouldn't need the red rubber grease.. what you've done is perfect with a little silicone grease just to keep it from getting dry... glad you enjoy the videos, always feel free to drop us a line if you need to... ride safe, good luck, Del & Pennyx
Have just found your videos, what a fantastic job, easy to follow, informative even for a novice like me. I also own an 883 Iron so I have to thank you for these amazing videos. Now to change the handle bars...Thanks again
Ho Andy, welcome to the channel mate, and thanks for watching, im glad the videos can help you, its why we load them, so its good ot know they are finding an audience... good luck with your projects, take it easy and ride safe.. Del.
Been having a problem with my softail's brake light not coming on. Glad I found this video before spending money on a new switch. Thanks a lot. Also been watching your softail service playlist. Keep it up. Your videos have been very helpful.
Hi mate, the rear brake light is operated by a pressure switch mount to a 'T'-piece in your rear brake line, you'll find it mounted under your left hand side panel above the swing arm and when you apply the rear brake the increase in hydraulic pressure inside the hose feeds to the switch as well and operates the back light ... Del
all very confusing thanks Del good stuff....if your not holding lever and brake light is on the block is not pressing switch in, you have to get block hard up against switch...the surface area margin for area is ridiculously low so it can be tricky, i gave throttle grip a tap and it put it in the right place ...twice changed bars twice had stuff around get block over switch...putting 36 inch drag bars on next hd iron 883 wide is best pour moi...geoffrey
This has been a new discovery to me..it seems that some later Sporties have the pin workin in , and some when out...best way to check it take the lever out of the way, do the switch block back up round the bar, switch the ignition on, then poke the pin 'in and out' to check which way yours works....then you can see also if its sticking...sorry to be vague, but im getting contradictions here, so clearly the mechanism has changed... good luck, Del.
on the heritage could be as simple as pushing the switch block back up hard against the lever mount on handle bar to eliminate gap between lever and switch node, in other words slide the switch housing once loosened off a bit ,hard up against the mount for lever,i also honed out the hole a little to allow switch node to slide in and out of its hole easier ,thus eliminating dirt build up ,and as Del boy said check that little spring in the switch box is not broken and still alined
Hi there, they are made by "Oberon", and are fully adjustable for small hands.. made from aircraft grade alloy and extremely strong, they cost about £75 each... hope that helps, Del.
Hi Brian. Having never had cause to deal with such an issue, i have no experience of it. . But if mine was playing up i would read the Harley manual and that would soon tell me... if you don't have one, then its a worthy investment as everything is in there, you'll find your switch and a how-to trouble shooter in there too... Get the proper Harley Davidson one and not a Haynes or other..and you'll soon find what you need... cheers mate, Del.
The indicators and brake light are the same bulb. They are working fine it's just the brake lights are out. I'm going to check the fuses then check all of the wires after that. Thanks
Hi mate, as it's the rear, there is no mechanical switch to speak of,it is instead a hydraulic pressure switch and unlike the front, rarely goes wrong..trace the rubber hose forwards from the brake caliper & approx. 1foot along (beneath the side panel) you'll find a metal 'T' piece,this has 2 wires plugged into it,all you can do is ensure they are both plugged in & you've not knocked one off. You could have broken a wire,so check it's all connect properly,have a look,& let me know how you go Del
Hi Barry, im glad you can find them helpful,. welcome back to biking brother, where have you been, and dont go wandering off again, Biking is like the Borg..once you're one of us, you have been assimilated, you will always be back...lol... ride safe buddy, and have a good Christmas.. Del.
I have not heard of them 'wearing down' so they cant be pushed...but if adding a small extra piece made it work then perhaps the lever has worn. not easy to know without seeing it....but if its possible, what about drilling a very tiny hole in the 'push face' and screwing in a tiny screw so the head forms a new block to bear on... other than that, it sounds like you may need to replace it... but again, ive never heard of that before..its certainly not common.. good luck with it, cheers, Del.
Hi mate... sorry you had that happen, its just horrible to see your pride and joy fall over...at least it didn't fall on you aye. The indicators are pretty simple to change, the back ones are bolted in from the inside of the fender, and the fronts are mounted to the swith blocks....have a good explore and look, its pretty self evident how they come off, so let me know if you get stuck... take care..(next time), and thanks for watching. Del.
Hey I just added 16 inch apes to my iron and I wired everything internally. I put everything back together and everything works except for the brake lights. I was wondering if that switch would cause this? Even the foot brake will not set off the brake lights
Hey Todd... if the brake light doesnt work with the foot pedal, then its not likely that its the bar switch....try the earth to the light, or even the fuse, do you have the brake lights in the indicators..? and are they working ok? hard to tell without running some current tests..! hope that helps..
Plz help . Lowered my suspension. Tried to remove the right rear tail light signal / break light / running light on my iron 883. Bolt was froze could not remove . So decided to put everything back together . On start up the right side tail light / indicator/ break light the red running light came on dim . Indicator worked but on applying break pressure both front and back the dim red light went out and stays out . Indicator still works . But the running might / brake light part will only return on after turning the ignition off and then back on and will only return on dim . Any ideas as to what is happening . Thanks .
My switch goes in and out. I press it in by hand to check it and the light still stays on. What else could it be? I used to be able to press the lever forward and that helped but it was super sensitive.
TheNajSD My issue was having the brake light ON all the time. After simple deduction, unplugging brake control wiring and finding that the brake light turns off, I found the problem was in the brake switch. This video showed me how to open everything up to inspect the switch and I realized that the tip of the switch was broken off. A dab of hot glue fixed the problem. I'm not paying $65 for the replacement OEM part. Works once again.
So just so I get this right. By that little pin sticking it would cause my brake lights to stay lit? Because that is the problem that I am have with an 08 nightster. Seems to be a reoccurring theme here.
I have a question. I just bought a 2012 nightster 1200. i noticed that only one tail light will stay solid while i ride but it will turn on when i brake. Same goes for the front indicators. Any advice??
Hello, I have a 99 Sportster XL 883, the left turn light indicator in the light handlebar isn't working, but the turn light is working. What can be the problem?
+Luis Soto Hi Luis, think I understand that you mean... if it's the tiny indicator light on the dash, by your clock, then it could just be a bulb... if you can get inside there you will see there is a tiny little bulb about 3mm across, just a push in to replace and you can buy them in car accesory shops!
Glad you found the video useful - always good to fix yourself - have plenty of Harley fixes in the back catalogue, check 'em out and shout if you need any help! Cheers, mate, Del
If the brake light is staying on all the time and the switch is normally pushed in until the brake is applied then how can it be stuck in and the brake light is still on?
Hi Anthony, im sorry buddy, i don't have a V-Rod Muscle (i wish) so have never had the chance to make a video on them...all i can constructively suggest my friend would be to purchase the genuine Harley Davidson manual from the main dealer because that will give you a blow by blow how-to on most jobs on the bike....it wont be a long job, $250 for labor is probably about three hours tops....so i would think any practically minded person could follow the book... sorry not to be more help.Del.
Man, I love your videos. My '13 FXDWG was giving me a b2262 "Front Brake Switch Stuck" code. I think this is the answer. I'll investigate and post back. FYI, I've been noticing your videos for a few years now and want to say thanks and keep up the good work! Oh, and please don't start charging people to watch them... please and thank you again. Edit/Update: The switch is fine. It seems the lever is worn where it's supposed to depress the switch. The controls are stock, so I'm a little baffled as to how it could have happened. I'm looking for a new lever nonetheless. I wouldn't have figured this out without the video. Thanks and ride safe. Edit 2: Apparently, when I installed my bars, almost 3 YEARS ago, I removed or broke off a rubber boot sort of thing that goes over the metal "button" of the switch. What I was checking just now was a metal "button". It works, but, apparently that rubber "boot".cover (like on your video) not only protects it from the weather, but, it helps with depressing the switch. I suppose I could have lost it by some other means too. Anyways, that's that. I'm gonna figure a fix until I can get a new one.
Hey buddy, thanks for your kind message, we will never charge for our videos, and we always peldged this from the beginning, but some while ago, when we moved in to the new place, many of our closest viewers who wanted to send us a little support in return for the huge help that we have given them, started suggesting Patreon... we had never heard of it, but looked in to it, and it turns out that those who want to, people can donate from $1 a month upwards, but it is, and will always remain an entirely voluntary contribution to anyone who feels they want to support us... but we disagree with actively charging! With your switch, would you believe, I had the same problem recently on my old Sportster... broke the tip of that little switch off and the brake light stayed on all the time... it left a hole in the end of the switch, and made it about 3mm too short, so I simply cut a tiny panel pin down to just the button head and about 4mm of the shaft and glued it in the hole, which have it a metal tip that stuck out by the exact amount, and still working fine till this day ! The original plastic tip gets commonly broken off if you're a little bit clumsy when fitting the switch gear... hope that helps, good luck with it my friend, Del
Hah! I was coming across my light coming on again and decided to revisit the issue. Initially, I didn't totally fix it- I simply adjusted the position of the lever. I know it's the problem though. I'm pretty sure I broke off/lost that rubber cap for it during one of my grip changes. Now that I am back on the issue, I'm going to break it down and do a good cleaning and the pin cap thing. Thanks again folks!
Ha ha, Hi Claus, very far from a Haynes, maybe a 'how-to-bodge-it-for-cheap' manual aye..lol... No sadly no takers on the Harley, we did have bids, and a couple of offers from dealers in Germany, but not nearly enough for a bike of that standard, so it stays in the garage, and ill have to have a rethink... maybe ill build the bike i have planned little by little as cash allows...either way, it will get built.. take care mate.. Del.
I have an 09 street glide. Brake light stays ON after rather than off. The cruise is not working. So ive been trying to diagnose this. So far came up with brake light switch... ideas? Now gotta figure out how to change it
tommy rutledge, jr Hi Tommy, don't fully understand your question, you said "Brake light stays ON after rather than off" .... how did you arrive at the brake light switch being to blame for your cruise control not working??? Usually, a dab of the brakes turns off the cruise control... so are the brakes actually releasing physically, or are they binding due to dirt in the calipers?? ...when was the last time the calipers were cleaned out?? And also when was the last time the brake fluid was changed front & rear??
hey mate i have his problem and it's not coming from the switch,my lights turn off when the switch is in and it's working fine..the lever is not pushing the switch back in when i let it go..
I have a 2000 Harley Sportster Custom. My front brake lever activates the brake light fine. My rear brake pedal doesn't activate the brake light, only my front brake lever does Question is, does this model even have a switch for the rear brake pedal?
MJ Retrovirus Not sure from experience buddy, as not had a 2000 Harley on the bench for a long time... but you can check yourself, just check the brake line from the slave cylinder to the caliper, you're looking for a switch block which the hydraulic pipes go in and out of and a T-piece wire coming from it, it'll be pretty obvious if it's there, and will be easy to replace!
Hi, Your 2 front brake vids have been very helpful as I've got same prob on my 2002 XLH 1200. Do you have a similar vid to help with a back brake light that only partly illuminates when the brake pedel is pushed REALLY hard. Cheers, Rick.
Oh how far your videos have come since 2012, yet just as helpful and appreciated
Thank you Steven thats very kind of you, we have tried very hard to keep the content improving, its not always been easy, CZcams has changed a lot over the years, and its great to still be involved.. take care and have a great weekend.. Del.
Hey Del thank you for leaving these videos up. I fixed the problem by spraying WD40 in. I loved when you asked a general question and Penny answered. I bet she could do most maintenance items on any bike by now. You have another tinder back on the road in Canada.
Thanks mate, am glad the video helped you... it's exactly this kind of content that we founded the Channel on in the first place all those years ago... so it's great that our core values are still being appreciated!
Your videos have been very helpful to me over the past few years. I've been able to fix things that on my Sporty that would have cost a lot at shops to repair. Thank you.
Most welcome Albert. Glad to help.
My problem is the brake lights staying on. I'm almost positive, the brake switch being gunked up is the culprit. Easy fix. Thanks. Saved me $50 bucks.
As always, thanks so much for the post. I just replaced throttle grips and messed up the switch, I was able to clean it with WD and plugged it back carefully and got it working as it should.
just getting back into bikes after 30yrs....your vids are excellent...many thanx
was having the same problem, so after watching your video I decided to check mine out. turns out it wasn't the switch sticking, it was the brake plunger not returning full stroke to keep pressure on the lever to keep the switch pushed in. there was some gunk in the fluid reservoir. cleaned it all out, put in new fluid and cleaned all around the plunger with WD-40 and now it returns all the way, the slop in the lever is gone and the light does not stay on! thanks for giving me a clue as where to start. saved a ton of money just cleaning things up myself!
Well done Steve.. glad you got it sorted out buddy, its not only cash effective to do it yourself, but I think it enhances the pride of ownership too to have the dignity in your own work....good on you fellah, take care and ride safe. Del.
Even though my Harley is under warranty you have saved me time, money, and travelling to the dealership.
Your videos are very informative and your instructions are easy to follow.
Thank you.
Thanks Marcus, you're most welcome Sir, glad they work for you... most the housekeeping jobs are not a dealer trip anyway! Ride safe my friend and well done, Del
Thanks Very Much! My rear brake light was staying on because the front lever switch stayed in the "ON" position. The end result of this was heat damage to the wiring in the rear light, and the light being on got to the point where the rear brake light lens softened up and split, thus letting in moisture and then exploding the bulb when water hit it. I have the factory manual for my Fatboy, and it doesn't even address this. 6 minutes on CZcams and my problem was solved.
Hey William, glad you got it sussed out buddy....there is a lot thats not in the manual, i guess they cant second guess every fault...thank god for the tube aye...puts us in touch wiuth each other too... take care fellah, and ride safe.. Del.
Thanks for another helpful video. My brake light was stuck on but I thought it wan't working. Anyway, after checking out the rear switch and test lighting the terminals, the test light lit up when I touched either terminal. It was then I realized the brake light was actually staying on all the time so I found your video. I followed the instructions, checked the switch and it was working.I cleaned it up and reinstalled the lever. Working properly again.
Appreciate this, i dropped my bike and I think something broke because my brake light has been messed up since. This gives me an easy way to check which part it is. Cheers
Most welcome, hope you can get it fixed!
Your videos are so simple and helpful. I've commented in the past but now spring is almost here in the USA EAST COAST I wanted to review. Well I followed everything you did with great confidence after watching and listening. The problem did not go away. BUT with the confidence and thought process you gave me I figured out the brake handle was the problem. Crazy I know but after 16 years of riding the Harley softail replacing the actual brake lever the problem was solved. I will mention that the HD Brake and Clutch lever set I purchased are vastly better made. The old one looks like a casting the New ones appear more machined. Either way I would not have done it without your help.Thanks
Hi Anthony, thank you for the kind feedback Sir, am glad it helped you... it's a simple enough process, but tricky if you've never done it before... good luck with your future projects and thank you for your support... ride safe!
Thank you sir ,, you saved me a ton of money ,, a have seen your vedio and fixed my cvo ultra my self
Cheers mate, that's Pennys' previous bike, and as she has small hands we needed to get the levers closer to the bar for her - they are a pretty cool trick accessory - made by Oberon, 6 way adjustable, which gives you 3 clicks closer than the OEM lever & actually 3 clicks further away for bigger hands - aircraft grade billet with a mechanism that would grace a watch - they do come at a price, but you get what you pay for - good luck with it, Del
I have a 2022 forty eight that would flash the brakes constantly due to the connection between the lever and the button. I ended up just bending the aluminum tab on the lever so it would engage on the butto more. Worked a treat
AGAIN a video that helps me understand my bike. Cheeers man thanks for the help!
You're most welcome mate!
Thanks for the good advice. I understand your process a lot better than some of the other guys on here.
Good info, thanks. My mate got stung over 200 bucks from the Harley dealer to repair this. Mine cost me 20 minutes of my time plus some one on one time with my young bloke whilst we fixed it. Cheers
You're welcome buddy, glad it helped, saved you a few pennies, and also, like you say, some good times in the garage! Ride safe!
Hi Gary.. thanks for your kind comments.. the tool is just a little hand driver for the TX bits.... its fixed and not ratchet...its a little set, came with the driver, 7 bits from T-10H to T-40H and a little clip to hold them all.. its by "Clarke Pro", and its model number "PRO 39" Part number 1700439. Handy and great quality, as i said, cheap torx bits will screw up the bolt heads in no time and these are sharp and precise.. i think i paid about £20 for the set... hope that helps mate. Del.
This video resolved my brake light issue. Thank you
Thanx mate. Still using all you old stuff as well as new. Excellent stuff mate.
Safe rides. 👍🤜
THank you. Love to ride but I don't know much as far as mechanics. Your video saved me time and money. Thank you so much!
Thanks Tim, im glad we could help you out with this... good luck with it... take care. Del.
It would be great if you showed a full disassembly of the switch housing so those of us with broken switches could see how to replace them.
Could have done that Luke.. but currently dont own a Harley, so not possible right now.. !
Moonfleet41 Hope this isn't a forever thing! I found your videos and you have been extremely helpful with my recent purchase, a 2005 Sportster 883. Love the videos and excited to watch more!
Thank you kindly for your generous comment...i appreciate you watching... cheers, Del
Delboy I actually have to change mine could you shed some light on how to actually get to that booger
Thanks Mr. I was scratching my head with this problem on a '92 soft-tail after watching you do it, Went to the driveway and fixed the issue in about 20 minutes. Now if I could fix the left fron turn signal I'll be able to get the wife off my back
Nice going Tom, Glad to hear the video could help you out... whats the issue with the turn signal..?
Moonfleet41 as a running light it's fine but goes out when I turn the signal on. the rear one still flashes but slowly.
I know it sounds obvious, but they are a twin filament bulb, have you checked that the signal filament is ok... maybe change the bulb.. ?
Moonfleet41 oh yeah first thing I did and changed out all the bulbs just in case
Ok those units had dual wiring to feed both applications, so the next thing is to start tracing the connections starting at the back of the bulb and working back into the harness...
Solved my problem....I ended up having to shim the switch out just about a mm. Thank you so much!
+David Robinson Glad it worked buddy !
Man u just made my life easier and less of pain in the ass. Thank you.
Most welcome, glad it helped you Bryan!
Exactly what I need brother… thank you!
this video, like a lot of Del's videos have saved me a lot of money.
cheers mate
Thanks Michael, knowing that re-affirms exactly why we started posting and makes it all worthwhile my friend, good luck and thanks for your support, take care, Del
Why thank you kindly, Sir, you are very generous, glad it helps, Cheers Del
Excellent. I am having the same problem. I will refer back to this video and apply the lesson. Hopefully it works. Thanks!!!
AWESOME 😁👍 I’ve got this issue soon as I’ve ordered some talked heads I’m gonna have a go at this thank you
Glad it was helpful. Good luck!
Cheers Del, glad this video is up, my Harley switch is doing the same, the light stays on and it takes a wiggle or two from the lever to get the light off, i'm going to try the wd40 trick and see if this helps. Legend as always. Jon.
What was the fix? Cheers
Just found this channel...good on ya. Trouble shooting this "light stays on" problem now (after bringing it to a garage that buffooned it). Problem is intermittent so it ads to the challenge. Was ready to take that grip area apart yesterday but light started operating normal, brother took it out that day and problem back, time to turn wrenches ...Cheers from the USA
Good luck with it David, hope you can source the problem and get it fixed.
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks, Gremlins 1 Biker 0. static ops check good. road test fail returns...couple more ideas to try...really thought I had it when I found a loose housing screw.
Thank you, fixed mine saved time and money.
Sir Delboy..... i love your videos and this is the first time i post a message. Finally mustered up the courage to take off my brake lever which was very straightforward...only a screw and a nut (btw ive got a sporty 2015) and found out that the pin which pushes the lever back to its place is on newer models enclosed in a rubber sleeve. However i did apply some all around silicone lubricant and pushed it a few times to get it all around and my brake lever works well... having said that it would be difficult to apply the red grease you have showed on another video with another harley, due to the pin being enclosed in the rubber sleeve, as opposed to the pin going in and out in an o type ring rubber. On another note i thank you both on all your videos on sportsters as i now have more confidence on working on mine. P.
Hi Padelis, don't worry, if you have the rubber boot over your switch, then it shouldn't need the red rubber grease.. what you've done is perfect with a little silicone grease just to keep it from getting dry... glad you enjoy the videos, always feel free to drop us a line if you need to... ride safe, good luck, Del & Pennyx
Thanks for the video. My brake light was an all the time. Watched the video and was able to fix my bike (FLSTCI). Just took a little WD40.
Have just found your videos, what a fantastic job, easy to follow, informative even for a novice like me. I also own an 883 Iron so I have to thank you for these amazing videos. Now to change the handle bars...Thanks again
Ho Andy, welcome to the channel mate, and thanks for watching, im glad the videos can help you, its why we load them, so its good ot know they are finding an audience... good luck with your projects, take it easy and ride safe.. Del.
thanks bro, you saved me a few pesos! Greetings from Mexico.
Glad I could help, no problem!
Been having a problem with my softail's brake light not coming on. Glad I found this video before spending money on a new switch. Thanks a lot. Also been watching your softail service playlist. Keep it up. Your videos have been very helpful.
Thank you very much for the great videos! They really help me save a lot of time and money!
You're most welcome Patrick, im glad we could be of help... all the best. Del.
Wow the best vid I seen for this part/issue- thank you And Merry Christmas 🎄
Glad it helped buddy, you're very welcome, enjoy your Christmas holidays!
Amazing video!!! I have done all mods on my 1200XL on all tutorials you have posted!!
Huge Fan!!!!
Frank B Thanks Frank, you're very kind mate, im glad the videos can help you sir... ride safe buddy, and thanks for watching... Del.
Hi mate, the rear brake light is operated by a pressure switch mount to a 'T'-piece in your rear brake line, you'll find it mounted under your left hand side panel above the swing arm and when you apply the rear brake the increase in hydraulic pressure inside the hose feeds to the switch as well and operates the back light ... Del
all very confusing thanks Del good stuff....if your not holding lever and brake light is on the block is not pressing switch in, you have to get block hard up against switch...the surface area margin for area is ridiculously low so it can be tricky, i gave throttle grip a tap and it put it in the right place ...twice changed bars twice had stuff around get block over switch...putting 36 inch drag bars on next hd iron 883 wide is best pour moi...geoffrey
Thanks for your attention, and gave me the idea of how to fix it, I'll send the video if I can repair this fault, greetings from mexico
Your video is really useful, Greetings from Zagreb
Welcome aboard my friend, how wonderful to hear from you, thank you for your support!
This has been a new discovery to me..it seems that some later Sporties have the pin workin in , and some when out...best way to check it take the lever out of the way, do the switch block back up round the bar, switch the ignition on, then poke the pin 'in and out' to check which way yours works....then you can see also if its sticking...sorry to be vague, but im getting contradictions here, so clearly the mechanism has changed... good luck, Del.
on the heritage could be as simple as pushing the switch block back up hard against the lever mount on handle bar to eliminate gap between lever and switch node, in other words slide the switch housing once loosened off a bit ,hard up against the mount for lever,i also honed out the hole a little to allow switch node to slide in and out of its hole easier ,thus eliminating dirt build up ,and as Del boy said check that little spring in the switch box is not broken and still alined
Hi there, they are made by "Oberon", and are fully adjustable for small hands.. made from aircraft grade alloy and extremely strong, they cost about £75 each... hope that helps, Del.
perfect instruction.
thank you very much.
cheers from Holland.
Hi Brian. Having never had cause to deal with such an issue, i have no experience of it. . But if mine was playing up i would read the Harley manual and that would soon tell me... if you don't have one, then its a worthy investment as everything is in there, you'll find your switch and a how-to trouble shooter in there too... Get the proper Harley Davidson one and not a Haynes or other..and you'll soon find what you need... cheers mate, Del.
Great video! This helped me a lot with my '07 Ultra Classic.
Your video helped but I just sprayed WD40 as I squeezed the brake. Now it's not stuck on. Try the easiest solution before surgery. Thumbs up Mate.
Thanks Dellboy! Video helped. The last question on the carburetor striped screw easy out didn't work I use vise grips.
The indicators and brake light are the same bulb. They are working fine it's just the brake lights are out. I'm going to check the fuses then check all of the wires after that. Thanks
Hi mate, as it's the rear, there is no mechanical switch to speak of,it is instead a hydraulic pressure switch and unlike the front, rarely goes wrong..trace the rubber hose forwards from the brake caliper & approx. 1foot along (beneath the side panel) you'll find a metal 'T' piece,this has 2 wires plugged into it,all you can do is ensure they are both plugged in & you've not knocked one off. You could have broken a wire,so check it's all connect properly,have a look,& let me know how you go Del
Thanks Rob, it was just a quick response to a guy who asked for help, easier to poke up a short video than try to explain it in words... :0
Hi Barry, im glad you can find them helpful,. welcome back to biking brother, where have you been, and dont go wandering off again, Biking is like the Borg..once you're one of us, you have been assimilated, you will always be back...lol... ride safe buddy, and have a good Christmas.. Del.
I have not heard of them 'wearing down' so they cant be pushed...but if adding a small extra piece made it work then perhaps the lever has worn. not easy to know without seeing it....but if its possible, what about drilling a very tiny hole in the 'push face' and screwing in a tiny screw so the head forms a new block to bear on... other than that, it sounds like you may need to replace it... but again, ive never heard of that before..its certainly not common.. good luck with it, cheers, Del.
Hi mate... sorry you had that happen, its just horrible to see your pride and joy fall over...at least it didn't fall on you aye. The indicators are pretty simple to change, the back ones are bolted in from the inside of the fender, and the fronts are mounted to the swith blocks....have a good explore and look, its pretty self evident how they come off, so let me know if you get stuck... take care..(next time), and thanks for watching. Del.
Thats it!!!.. the drilling&screw option will do it!!!.... Thanks a lot man!
Hanks for the tip. This Worx great
Cool, thought it might ratchet, and had not seen one like it before, will see if they are available here...
Great help with all your vidoes, thanks
Thanks, this video help me fix my 98 Road King.
Hey I just added 16 inch apes to my iron and I wired everything internally. I put everything back together and everything works except for the brake lights. I was wondering if that switch would cause this? Even the foot brake will not set off the brake lights
Hey Todd... if the brake light doesnt work with the foot pedal, then its not likely that its the bar switch....try the earth to the light, or even the fuse, do you have the brake lights in the indicators..? and are they working ok? hard to tell without running some current tests..! hope that helps..
Great video mate, it helped me plenty good !!😊thanks.👍
Plz help . Lowered my suspension. Tried to remove the right rear tail light signal / break light / running light on my iron 883. Bolt was froze could not remove . So decided to put everything back together . On start up the right side tail light / indicator/ break light the red running light came on dim . Indicator worked but on applying break pressure both front and back the dim red light went out and stays out . Indicator still works . But the running might / brake light part will only return on after turning the ignition off and then back on and will only return on dim . Any ideas as to what is happening . Thanks .
My switch goes in and out. I press it in by hand to check it and the light still stays on. What else could it be? I used to be able to press the lever forward and that helped but it was super sensitive.
Awesome video...this helped me with my scooter.
Hi Gary, if you cant get one id be surprised, Clarke-Pro are an American company as far as i know...
ty Del your vid help a lot! it fix my issue it was stuck on, but its good now thanks
Hey Delboy...good vid! You should've included a shot of your Harley!
Great help man! Thanks for the videos!
Thanks for the help!
TheNajSD My issue was having the brake light ON all the time. After simple deduction, unplugging brake control wiring and finding that the brake light turns off, I found the problem was in the brake switch. This video showed me how to open everything up to inspect the switch and I realized that the tip of the switch was broken off. A dab of hot glue fixed the problem. I'm not paying $65 for the replacement OEM part. Works once again.
TheNajSD Thats a great fix buddy, just my kind of thinking too.... glad it helped you out, take care and ride safe.. Del.
very helpful video!!
Thanks for the video. Explains alot.
You are awesome thankyou for your help!
So just so I get this right. By that little pin sticking it would cause my brake lights to stay lit? Because that is the problem that I am have with an 08 nightster. Seems to be a reoccurring theme here.
I have a question. I just bought a 2012 nightster 1200. i noticed that only one tail light will stay solid while i ride but it will turn on when i brake. Same goes for the front indicators. Any advice??
Sorry its a 2011 nightster
I did everything you said to clean the switch but my break light is still on, what could I do next?
What if tour lights and headlights stay on like in a dual sport but now when you break they don't dim
Hello, I have a 99 Sportster XL 883, the left turn light indicator in the light handlebar isn't working, but the turn light is working. What can be the problem?
+Luis Soto Hi Luis, think I understand that you mean... if it's the tiny indicator light on the dash, by your clock, then it could just be a bulb... if you can get inside there you will see there is a tiny little bulb about 3mm across, just a push in to replace and you can buy them in car accesory shops!
Hi You've lost me, is yours sticking then..?
Thanks I'm going to check it tomorrow
Glad you found the video useful - always good to fix yourself - have plenty of Harley fixes in the back catalogue, check 'em out and shout if you need any help! Cheers, mate, Del
my brake switch doesnt have that rubber piece, any idea where I can get a new one?
Im sure you can order it from the main dealer.
Thanks this Video fixed my problem
If the brake light is staying on all the time and the switch is normally pushed in until the brake is applied then how can it be stuck in and the brake light is still on?
Hi Anthony, im sorry buddy, i don't have a V-Rod Muscle (i wish) so have never had the chance to make a video on them...all i can constructively suggest my friend would be to purchase the genuine Harley Davidson manual from the main dealer because that will give you a blow by blow how-to on most jobs on the bike....it wont be a long job, $250 for labor is probably about three hours tops....so i would think any practically minded person could follow the book... sorry not to be more help.Del.
Man, I love your videos. My '13 FXDWG was giving me a b2262 "Front Brake Switch Stuck" code. I think this is the answer. I'll investigate and post back. FYI, I've been noticing your videos for a few years now and want to say thanks and keep up the good work! Oh, and please don't start charging people to watch them... please and thank you again.
Edit/Update: The switch is fine. It seems the lever is worn where it's supposed to depress the switch. The controls are stock, so I'm a little baffled as to how it could have happened. I'm looking for a new lever nonetheless. I wouldn't have figured this out without the video. Thanks and ride safe.
Edit 2: Apparently, when I installed my bars, almost 3 YEARS ago, I removed or broke off a rubber boot sort of thing that goes over the metal "button" of the switch. What I was checking just now was a metal "button". It works, but, apparently that rubber "boot".cover (like on your video) not only protects it from the weather, but, it helps with depressing the switch. I suppose I could have lost it by some other means too. Anyways, that's that. I'm gonna figure a fix until I can get a new one.
Hey buddy, thanks for your kind message, we will never charge for our videos, and we always peldged this from the beginning, but some while ago, when we moved in to the new place, many of our closest viewers who wanted to send us a little support in return for the huge help that we have given them, started suggesting Patreon... we had never heard of it, but looked in to it, and it turns out that those who want to, people can donate from $1 a month upwards, but it is, and will always remain an entirely voluntary contribution to anyone who feels they want to support us... but we disagree with actively charging!
With your switch, would you believe, I had the same problem recently on my old Sportster... broke the tip of that little switch off and the brake light stayed on all the time... it left a hole in the end of the switch, and made it about 3mm too short, so I simply cut a tiny panel pin down to just the button head and about 4mm of the shaft and glued it in the hole, which have it a metal tip that stuck out by the exact amount, and still working fine till this day ! The original plastic tip gets commonly broken off if you're a little bit clumsy when fitting the switch gear... hope that helps, good luck with it my friend, Del
Hah! I was coming across my light coming on again and decided to revisit the issue. Initially, I didn't totally fix it- I simply adjusted the position of the lever. I know it's the problem though. I'm pretty sure I broke off/lost that rubber cap for it during one of my grip changes. Now that I am back on the issue, I'm going to break it down and do a good cleaning and the pin cap thing. Thanks again folks!
Ha ha, Hi Claus, very far from a Haynes, maybe a 'how-to-bodge-it-for-cheap' manual aye..lol... No sadly no takers on the Harley, we did have bids, and a couple of offers from dealers in Germany, but not nearly enough for a bike of that standard, so it stays in the garage, and ill have to have a rethink... maybe ill build the bike i have planned little by little as cash allows...either way, it will get built.. take care mate.. Del.
I have an 09 street glide. Brake light stays ON after rather than off. The cruise is not working. So ive been trying to diagnose this. So far came up with brake light switch... ideas? Now gotta figure out how to change it
tommy rutledge, jr Hi Tommy, don't fully understand your question, you said "Brake light stays ON after rather than off" .... how did you arrive at the brake light switch being to blame for your cruise control not working??? Usually, a dab of the brakes turns off the cruise control... so are the brakes actually releasing physically, or are they binding due to dirt in the calipers?? ...when was the last time the calipers were cleaned out?? And also when was the last time the brake fluid was changed front & rear??
Thanks mate....
Good show
hey mate i have his problem and it's not coming from the switch,my lights turn off when the switch is in and it's working fine..the lever is not pushing the switch back in when i let it go..
thank you very much i can put bulb back in now thanks heaps
I have a 2000 Harley Sportster Custom. My front brake lever activates the brake light fine.
My rear brake pedal doesn't activate the brake light, only my front brake lever does
Question is, does this model even have a switch for the rear brake pedal?
MJ Retrovirus Not sure from experience buddy, as not had a 2000 Harley on the bench for a long time... but you can check yourself, just check the brake line from the slave cylinder to the caliper, you're looking for a switch block which the hydraulic pipes go in and out of and a T-piece wire coming from it, it'll be pretty obvious if it's there, and will be easy to replace!
Moonfleet41 Will do! Thanks man!
A word of caution to everyone, cover your tank w a blanket on BLS replacement
Hi, Your 2 front brake vids have been very helpful as I've got same prob on my 2002 XLH 1200. Do you have a similar vid to help with a back brake light that only partly illuminates when the brake pedel is pushed REALLY hard. Cheers, Rick.