Installing Brembo Brakes On My 68 Firebird

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  • čas přidán 5. 09. 2022
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    If you're interested in the brackets for this kit or have any questions, you can contact Noah via email.
    cycle_ops@hotmail.com
  • Auta a dopravní prostředky

Komentáře • 23

  • @Schrimpieman
    @Schrimpieman Před rokem +3

    Cutting the wheel studs t length: Screw on a sacrificial nut first, then cut the stud. File end of stud of any large burrs. Then, as you remove nut, it'll automatically re-establish a clean thread profile.

  • @johnengland8619
    @johnengland8619 Před 3 měsíci

    Thanks for sharing

  • @Schrimpieman
    @Schrimpieman Před rokem +1

    Hopefully you replaced the hydraulic proportion valve to accommodate disk brakes (?)
    Personally, I'm not a fan of 18-19 rims on classic musclecars; I prefer the classic look with lots of rubber (70-profile tires), but everyone has their own. You're making progress. More Power To Ya.

  • @noahbettin7843
    @noahbettin7843 Před rokem +1

    Nice work Ty, glad my brackets worked for you. FYI I think I used the same lower control arms that you did. The pre-installed ball joints were crap and got sloppy right away. I had to get some new better ones. So be checking your wheel play. Your wheels look sweet and I like the color on your calipers too 👍

  • @rickyscz28
    @rickyscz28 Před 7 měsíci +1

    Great video. I appreciate it

  • @user-zl4lb9ri2o
    @user-zl4lb9ri2o Před 10 měsíci +2

    I have 1968 Camero can you tell which spindle you used . Thanks .

  • @heraafzal1825
    @heraafzal1825 Před rokem +1

    OMG TY IM UR NUMBER ONE FAN

  • @jeffscales9817
    @jeffscales9817 Před rokem

    Where did you get the rear brackets from?

  • @Flyguyon8s
    @Flyguyon8s Před 6 měsíci

    Where can we buy these parts from?

  • @Schrimpieman
    @Schrimpieman Před rokem

    10:09, too bad your camera-skipped over one of the most important steps of reassembly: Castle Nut to Bearing preload. Load the Castle Nut to approx 5 lb-ft. (Just a little "snug"). Spin the disk one or two rotations to ensure rollers seat themselves onto races. Loosen castle nut without disturbing disk, then finger tight nut. If cotter pin holes don't align, loosen nut (counterclockwise) to absolute next available alignment. I've done literally hundreds this way; never had a failure.
    I'd recommend a little more grease, too. Never install washers or dust cap "dry". Corrosion is imminent.

  • @arthurfoster2323
    @arthurfoster2323 Před rokem +1

    Umm, that's awful scary to grind on any aluminum manufacturerd part, & risk compromising its strength integrity. I purchased my brake conversion kit from Master power brakes. I got the pro series, the whole kit came with everything, 14" drill, slotted rotors, brackets, steel braided lines & new brake booster, master cylinder combo. It wasn't cheap, but it really looks good through my 17" year one, rally two's.

    • @shiftkings1028
      @shiftkings1028  Před rokem

      It was steel so it’s all good for that little bit removed. If we die we die like men 😂. All jokes aside. The guy who custom makes these kits been tracking his 2 birds for years on them so that gave me a lot more confidence. I’ll admit I was also worried about that at first.

    • @arthurfoster2323
      @arthurfoster2323 Před rokem

      Ok well steel makes all the difference, I'm relieved 😉

  • @stevenpringle7813
    @stevenpringle7813 Před rokem

    I have the same car and want to convert my manual drums to power disc. Do you know what the size of your brake booster is. I am worried about the ones in the kits fitting. Thanks.

    • @shiftkings1028
      @shiftkings1028  Před rokem

      The one I have is an 11 inch but I was thinking swapping to manual brakes once in throw my cam in

    • @stevenpringle7813
      @stevenpringle7813 Před rokem

      @@shiftkings1028 Why would you want to switch back to manual brakes? It might be more foot pressure with disc brakes than with the drums.

    • @shiftkings1028
      @shiftkings1028  Před rokem

      @@stevenpringle7813 I don’t think with the the cam I’d have enough vacuum for the booster, it’s also one less think I’d have to worry about in regards to potential failures, I plan to road race it in the future

    • @stevenpringle7813
      @stevenpringle7813 Před rokem

      @@shiftkings1028 I think you can get electric vacuum boosters but I haven't really looked at the details.

  • @limitlessautomedia9794

    Will this work for a 1972 Nova?

    • @shiftkings1028
      @shiftkings1028  Před rokem

      The brackets are designed for first gen f body’s spindles, I’m not sure if they are shared with x body’s so I couldn’t say.

    • @Schrimpieman
      @Schrimpieman Před rokem +1

      This is kind of lengthy to explain, but I'll give it a try. First step is to contact the tech line of whatever aftermarket product you plan to install, and be very specific about what you're trying to accomplish. Write down part numbers, and if the rep has the patience, have a deep conversation about how all components will affect one another. For example, if you want disk brakes, it needs to match to the bracket which needs to mate with the spindle which needs to mate with the control arms....and so on& so on. Changing one component affects several down the line. Don't forget to upgrade the master cyl and proportion valve. .....maybe the brake booster , too (?). See where I'm going with this ?
      .
      Second, do your research online, browse & mix-n-match different vehicles that share part numbers. In order to bypass the YT delete filters, I'll mention a name at the very end for a site to visit. The drop-down menus catalog database is absolutely superb.
      I did a '68 FireBird front drum-to-disk conversion, but opted to stay with OEM parts. (I prefer the classic 15" rim look). Anyway, my memory is hazy, did this years ago & my paperwork & receipts are buried deep someplace......
      I purchased spindles (i think) for a '73 Nova(?) engineered for disk brakes. Then researched backwards & compared part numbers to make it fit for the F-Bird. Eventually, I found part numbers that overlapped & were shared amongst different GM products. I bought the stuff, & it bolted right on. Vúala! Don't forget new rubber brake hoses.
      GM luckily shared part numbers, or at least used similar products across their assembly products. You just have to do your research & match up compatibility. I think by the time I got to year 1974, part numbers were completely off the scale; nothing matched up any more.
      BTW, disk conversion KITS are available for my '68 Bird, I know that. But they're much more expensive as a kit, than ordering parts "A-La-Carté" from other sources. You either pay a hefty price for the convenience of bolting everything from one box, or spend less $$ doing your own research & buying separate components.
      I'm not questioning your car educational level by being so "informative"....just trying to help. Remember that brakes is a system, and all affected components need to be considered. I cringe when some smarty-pants boasts about installing a huge carburetor & expects instant power gains. Yeah? What about the exhaust, valves, & camshaft? They all work together. ....um....intake manifold...duh.
      Anyway, Good Luck ! Rockauto

    • @charlieseidelmann6702
      @charlieseidelmann6702 Před rokem

      @@Schrimpieman Couldn't agree with you more about making up a parts list via comparing different GM applicable models. I have a Chevelle and am building a Camaro from the ground up. Trying to be frugal. Using same spindles, calipers, rotors, and pads. Also, some steering components are exactly the same.