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Shift Kings
United States
Registrace 22. 06. 2014
Installing leaf springs in my 68 firebird
Today we are installing Hotchkis 1.5 in drop springs with QA1 shocks!
zhlédnutí: 6 774
Video
Installing Brembo Brakes On My 68 Firebird
zhlédnutí 3KPřed 2 lety
If you enjoyed this video be sure to drop a like and subscribe for more! If you're interested in the brackets for this kit or have any questions, you can contact Noah via email. cycle_ops@hotmail.com
Installing coil overs on my 68 Firebird
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 2 lety
If you enjoyed the video, consider liking and subscribing :)
Swapping the power steering gearbox to the Z box on the 68 firebird!
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 2 lety
showing a lesser-known budget power steering gearbox option for the 68 firebird. The "Z" box was GM's quick ratio box found on the higher performance model f-bodys and is a 12.25:1 ratio steering box that can be still be found today. A budget option that can give the performance of new specialty boxes that are up to 7X the price
1968 Firebird build part 3: making it reliable
zhlédnutí 341Před 4 lety
maybe you shouldn't drive around with a bad alternator.
1968 Firebird Build series part 2 : IT RUNS!
zhlédnutí 352Před 5 lety
Be to sure to like and hit that subscribe button for more updates on this epic build.
1968 Firebird build series intro
zhlédnutí 431Před 5 lety
Welcome to Shift Kings! This is our 1968 Pontiac Firebird 400 build. It's a little rough, but with work, it should be one badass car.
never was able to reach Noah Betty....
Hey bro you did a great job lot's of info much appreciated
I'm wondering if you can give me a front picture of the bracket that holds the power steering pump in place?
Any drive videos with the suspension completed? Interested to see how it all came out.
Great video! How did the alignment come out after? Without any shims my the negative camber is a little much. Shims would only make it worse. I’m curious how yours has come out?
Thanks for sharing
Man, I am a hot rodder thats been doing this stuff for 30 years, and youre doing this exactly how hot rodders do.....just do it and figure it out. Well done my man.
Where can we buy these parts from?
Good videos man. Can you put a link for the front shock and spring you got pleased
Good videos man. Can you put a link for the front shock and spring you got pleased
Great video. I appreciate it
hey bud love your videos. I just bought a 67 bird and i have multi leaf springs with traction bars and the bracket to the rear shock does not fit anymore. I bought the QA! shocks like you have. I was wondering if you can share a link where you bought the bolt's that you bought sepertly to mount the bottom shock to? Or just the nae of it? Thank you
I used the bolts that came with the shocks, I did have to drill out the hole in the bracket to make it fit though.
i thought you said you ordered them they were like 10 bucks a piace? @@shiftkings1028
Good job well done I'm doing the same job to my 71 Nova on my channel it uses a TS801 shock that is a "T" Bar mount. Look forward to see what's next on the bird......Subed
What happen!? Love the build why stop bummer... 😢😢
Why do you have to install u-bolts when the factory setup didn't have it, now you have to screw around with the rear brake lines?
factory did utilize u-bolts but only 1 per side, with the Hotchkis there are 2 per side
Nice job
I have 1968 Camero can you tell which spindle you used . Thanks .
I have a 67 Camaro. How do you like the ride,is it too harsh? Thinking of staying with coil springs but using an adjustable Ridetech shock.
Depending on the engine I would go with lighter springs for your Camaro since it’s a slightly lighter car up front. they ride really nice, gives it’s a more modern feel than the old floaty feeling suspension.
@@shiftkings1028 Cool.Not too stiff?Thats my biggest problem with coil overs
@@johnnyhotrod not for my liking, the good thing is that you can always go with lighter springs if you find them to be too stiff, qa1 has a pretty chart that you can follow to get the right spring
@@shiftkings1028 Cool,thanks for the advice!
You never tighten the ft spring bolt to front bracket. Just wonder ing why.🤔
Where did you get the rear brackets from?
I'm building a 69. Still debating rear suspension. How does it ride?
Nice job! Getting ready to do this on my 69 Camaro
Did you ever get your rear brakes installed?
I have the same car and want to convert my manual drums to power disc. Do you know what the size of your brake booster is. I am worried about the ones in the kits fitting. Thanks.
The one I have is an 11 inch but I was thinking swapping to manual brakes once in throw my cam in
@@shiftkings1028 Why would you want to switch back to manual brakes? It might be more foot pressure with disc brakes than with the drums.
@@stevenpringle7813 I don’t think with the the cam I’d have enough vacuum for the booster, it’s also one less think I’d have to worry about in regards to potential failures, I plan to road race it in the future
@@shiftkings1028 I think you can get electric vacuum boosters but I haven't really looked at the details.
I dropped a bolt in mine too, I was able to use a magnet to get it out, but was not easy. Thanks for sharing.
Nice Job. I just started my rear suspension today. My front bracket bolts are spinning. You got lucky with yours.
How do you like the ride with the QA1s
Since you had new spindles, you could have saved yourself some time and just separated the ball joints and left the brake drum complete and removed it as one whole unit.
Nice car you have there......
nice work and video
Another source for the rag joint is a Lares #201
Good job on the video. A couple of questions: who's control arms, do they change the parameters of adjustment? Either way, get it aligned when done. Secondly, are they drop spindles< or standard? Thanks
I took a chance on ones from eBay. Seems like they are straight from the same factory cpp comes from. same adjust parameters but it’s supposed to be slightly better geometry. They are standard disk spindles.
With these control arms I’ve been told to watch my wheel play over time because the ball joints sometimes aren’t the best, I’ll give an update If that’s the case
Those clip/cage nuts can be a real pain. So often they break off during disassembly and then you have a real nightmare on your hands when you can't remove the spring pocket screws. Regarding those rear leaf spring shackles. While you do want them in tight and hopefully using nylock nuts but be sure the shackles move freely as the car bounces up and down. You don't want them so tight that they bind up. Nice video series. You're going to have nice driver when you get it put together.
I appreciate the feed back, I tightened the nylon nut to where I saw about 3-4 threads on the other side. I’ll definitely revisit it to make sure its not over tightened. I still have a a few more things to do with the rear end. Keep an eye for more videos ! :)
Hopefully you replaced the hydraulic proportion valve to accommodate disk brakes (?) Personally, I'm not a fan of 18-19 rims on classic musclecars; I prefer the classic look with lots of rubber (70-profile tires), but everyone has their own. You're making progress. More Power To Ya.
Cutting the wheel studs t length: Screw on a sacrificial nut first, then cut the stud. File end of stud of any large burrs. Then, as you remove nut, it'll automatically re-establish a clean thread profile.
10:09, too bad your camera-skipped over one of the most important steps of reassembly: Castle Nut to Bearing preload. Load the Castle Nut to approx 5 lb-ft. (Just a little "snug"). Spin the disk one or two rotations to ensure rollers seat themselves onto races. Loosen castle nut without disturbing disk, then finger tight nut. If cotter pin holes don't align, loosen nut (counterclockwise) to absolute next available alignment. I've done literally hundreds this way; never had a failure. I'd recommend a little more grease, too. Never install washers or dust cap "dry". Corrosion is imminent.
I realize this suggestion is way out of date, but would've been better to reverse the F-Bird onto the trailer instead of nose first for weight distribution reasons. At time-stamp 6:49, the camera is panning quickly but gives a brief shot of how far the Bird's nose and engine compartment is hanging in front of the trailer's axles; it's extremely front-heavy... puts unnecessary strain on tow vehicle & hitch setup. I also used a U-Haul dual-axle trailer to transport a '68 Bird from Denver to South Florida. ...loaded Bird in conventional way and my 2010 Tacoma 4X4 (V-6 & factory tow package) rear end squat way too much to be comfortable. The weight ratio (trailer to tongue weight) was well in excess of the recommended 10%. I reversed the FireBird onto trailer; the weight distribution was ideal. Looks like your tow vehicle was a full size Ram which could handle the additional weight easier than my Tacoma; however, proper trailering etiquette is still paramount.
Will this work for a 1972 Nova?
The brackets are designed for first gen f body’s spindles, I’m not sure if they are shared with x body’s so I couldn’t say.
This is kind of lengthy to explain, but I'll give it a try. First step is to contact the tech line of whatever aftermarket product you plan to install, and be very specific about what you're trying to accomplish. Write down part numbers, and if the rep has the patience, have a deep conversation about how all components will affect one another. For example, if you want disk brakes, it needs to match to the bracket which needs to mate with the spindle which needs to mate with the control arms....and so on& so on. Changing one component affects several down the line. Don't forget to upgrade the master cyl and proportion valve. .....maybe the brake booster , too (?). See where I'm going with this ? . Second, do your research online, browse & mix-n-match different vehicles that share part numbers. In order to bypass the YT delete filters, I'll mention a name at the very end for a site to visit. The drop-down menus catalog database is absolutely superb. I did a '68 FireBird front drum-to-disk conversion, but opted to stay with OEM parts. (I prefer the classic 15" rim look). Anyway, my memory is hazy, did this years ago & my paperwork & receipts are buried deep someplace...... I purchased spindles (i think) for a '73 Nova(?) engineered for disk brakes. Then researched backwards & compared part numbers to make it fit for the F-Bird. Eventually, I found part numbers that overlapped & were shared amongst different GM products. I bought the stuff, & it bolted right on. Vúala! Don't forget new rubber brake hoses. GM luckily shared part numbers, or at least used similar products across their assembly products. You just have to do your research & match up compatibility. I think by the time I got to year 1974, part numbers were completely off the scale; nothing matched up any more. BTW, disk conversion KITS are available for my '68 Bird, I know that. But they're much more expensive as a kit, than ordering parts "A-La-Carté" from other sources. You either pay a hefty price for the convenience of bolting everything from one box, or spend less $$ doing your own research & buying separate components. I'm not questioning your car educational level by being so "informative"....just trying to help. Remember that brakes is a system, and all affected components need to be considered. I cringe when some smarty-pants boasts about installing a huge carburetor & expects instant power gains. Yeah? What about the exhaust, valves, & camshaft? They all work together. ....um....intake manifold...duh. Anyway, Good Luck ! Rockauto
@@Schrimpieman Couldn't agree with you more about making up a parts list via comparing different GM applicable models. I have a Chevelle and am building a Camaro from the ground up. Trying to be frugal. Using same spindles, calipers, rotors, and pads. Also, some steering components are exactly the same.
Really would like to know your impressions on driving with the coil overs. Good videos!
Thanks bro I have 68 firebird as well learning a lot and will be doing mine as well
17:32😂
Just did this on my '67 Firebird, good video man!!!!
so swaggy big bro
You want to sell this car? I am in North Carolina.
No chance 😅, there are plenty for sale on marketplace though
Nice work Ty, glad my brackets worked for you. FYI I think I used the same lower control arms that you did. The pre-installed ball joints were crap and got sloppy right away. I had to get some new better ones. So be checking your wheel play. Your wheels look sweet and I like the color on your calipers too 👍
How can I purchase some
Nice! Where did you get your control arms from?
Good job on the upgraded suspension.
OMG TY IM UR NUMBER ONE FAN
Umm, that's awful scary to grind on any aluminum manufacturerd part, & risk compromising its strength integrity. I purchased my brake conversion kit from Master power brakes. I got the pro series, the whole kit came with everything, 14" drill, slotted rotors, brackets, steel braided lines & new brake booster, master cylinder combo. It wasn't cheap, but it really looks good through my 17" year one, rally two's.
It was steel so it’s all good for that little bit removed. If we die we die like men 😂. All jokes aside. The guy who custom makes these kits been tracking his 2 birds for years on them so that gave me a lot more confidence. I’ll admit I was also worried about that at first.
Ok well steel makes all the difference, I'm relieved 😉
I'm glad to see another firebird lover! I've got a 68 also, but a convertible. I did a whole front end replacement also minus the control arms, it was my first time too. I did remove the control arms to change to poly bushings had to get over fear of that spring, but I did it. I had to laugh because I lost a new deep socket in that big stupid hole, & down in the frame also, & it's still there. It was also hard getting that inner control arm bolt in, I ended up damaging the beginning threads on the new bolts, so I ended up using the old ones. Now I know why the beginning of the factory bolts were cone shaped, because those smart fellows at GM knew you would tear those threads up.