Just a comment on dried barley. Dosage rates can vary a lot but the suggested rate is 225 lbs of straw per surface acre. The lowest suggested rate is around 90 lbs per surface acre. Although you may find barley bales available from online sources, I have always felt it's best to go directly to a farm near you (if possible) and buy direct...this can save a lot of money. Concentrated barley pellets are available and may be a viable alternative if you can't find barley close to home. - www.pondalgaesolutions.com/barley-straw-pellets-40-lbs.aspx
Hi Cecil...with no power your options would come down to solar or wind. Windmills are certainly more affordable than commercial solar but unless you get very consistent winds, I don't care for them as much. At least with solar you know if the sun comes up, you'll have some aeration. Commercial solar, even the partial daytime systems are more than a standard aerator. If budget is tight, you are best to look at DIY options...and ideally, the pond would be relatively shallow, say under 8' so you could use a linear pump, which is a bit more energy efficient. I should say too, for 24/7 operation we might even look for using remote power. Anything within 1000 feet is doable by running a buried airline. This way you get consistent operation and the most affordable or more affordable options on the aerator itself. The tough thing for me of course is when someone brings up the budget, what's affordable for one guy is too much for another, and the prices of equipment range quite a bit.
Thank you for your reply. My pond/ponds are shallow under 8'. I'm in arkansas and the hot dry times of summer usually mean calm hot days. So maybe solar. But the buried air line sounds intriguing. The ponds are about 200 yards from power. So I think I will look into that option. If you can guide me to see specific products that would be appreciated appreciated. The ponds are each about a third of an acre. Thanks again. Your content is straight forward and delivered in a professional manner.
@@ceciljohnson5997 Hi Cecil...thank you for the kind words. Get in touch with me at americanaeration.com/contact/ It might be best to look at your layout on google earth...so if you can send over an address or location so I can find that it would be great. Solar, honestly, is great but it's not budget-friendly, so if you can run a buried airline without a lot of obstructions, rocks, etc...that would be the best cost-wise but also for performance. Since you mentioned depth here all I need is to see the ponds and I can tell you what system would work best. Thanks again...Mark
Definitely, barley is worth looking into. Most research has shown it's most helpful as a retardant to algae growth rather than a treatment...so it needs to be applied ahead of any blooms for the best effect. For small ponds, I think pellets or liquid concentrate can be fine, or the bales...for larger ponds I like to suggest people look close to home for dried bales from a farm direct source...you'll get it a lot cheaper that way.
Thanks for the question. There are a couple products you could look at. The main product is the PondBiotix ME, muck pellets. These help with old much and sludge thats in the decayed state. For fresh organics like leaves, dead algae, and dead weeds, you could apply the PondBiotix MDC which is an enzyme catalyst...it speeds up the breakdown of these fresh organics to a point where the microbes in the ME, and the pond environment can then digest the rest. I hope this is helpful for you!
Dye is OK if the algae or weeds are submerged fully but it may not be enough all on it's own. The only downside to dye is that if it's applied too densely it can affect the base of the food change for fish. I have always looked at dye as a possible add on but more than anything I'm looking to lower and balance excess nutrients, often through a combination of aeration and microbial supplements.
Excellent suggestion. Cornmeal can work to bind up phosphates and that can be helpful. Its not a sure thing by any means...but it can work if pH is reasonable and the source of the phos isn't consistently recharging the pond. Glad it worked for you!
I have never heard of that honestly. I would be slightly concerned about a pond with fish and critters. I can't speak for every state but found this on colorado waterways - www.dgslaw.com/news-events/dairy-farmers-and-food-producers-must-use-caution-when-disposing-of-excess-milk-and-other-food-waste-in-response-to-coronavirus-driven-demand-reductions...so there is an effect in water, but much would depend on the amount and frequency I suspect. Anyway, there are certainly more established ways to deal with the problem Peroxide and barley being some of the more widely known. Even these are hit and miss with how effective they are so its hard to say just how effective milk would be on a widespread basis. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Alan...I'm not sure if you are asking about using peroxide as a treatment for algae...(hydrogen peroxide is not typically thought of as a byproduct of orgranic decomposition) but in essence, yes, its presence would add a bit of oxygen to the water for a short time. It may not be sustained for very long at all and is probably not going to help all that much. Lots of variables could be involved though...temp of the water....amount of plant growth, etc.
Just a comment on dried barley. Dosage rates can vary a lot but the suggested rate is 225 lbs of straw per surface acre. The lowest suggested rate is around 90 lbs per surface acre. Although you may find barley bales available from online sources, I have always felt it's best to go directly to a farm near you (if possible) and buy direct...this can save a lot of money. Concentrated barley pellets are available and may be a viable alternative if you can't find barley close to home. - www.pondalgaesolutions.com/barley-straw-pellets-40-lbs.aspx
What is your recommendation for aeration where there is no electricity available and kind of budget friendly?
Hi Cecil...with no power your options would come down to solar or wind. Windmills are certainly more affordable than commercial solar but unless you get very consistent winds, I don't care for them as much. At least with solar you know if the sun comes up, you'll have some aeration. Commercial solar, even the partial daytime systems are more than a standard aerator. If budget is tight, you are best to look at DIY options...and ideally, the pond would be relatively shallow, say under 8' so you could use a linear pump, which is a bit more energy efficient. I should say too, for 24/7 operation we might even look for using remote power. Anything within 1000 feet is doable by running a buried airline. This way you get consistent operation and the most affordable or more affordable options on the aerator itself. The tough thing for me of course is when someone brings up the budget, what's affordable for one guy is too much for another, and the prices of equipment range quite a bit.
Thank you for your reply. My pond/ponds are shallow under 8'. I'm in arkansas and the hot dry times of summer usually mean calm hot days. So maybe solar. But the buried air line sounds intriguing. The ponds are about 200 yards from power. So I think I will look into that option. If you can guide me to see specific products that would be appreciated appreciated. The ponds are each about a third of an acre.
Thanks again. Your content is straight forward and delivered in a professional manner.
@@ceciljohnson5997 Hi Cecil...thank you for the kind words. Get in touch with me at americanaeration.com/contact/ It might be best to look at your layout on google earth...so if you can send over an address or location so I can find that it would be great. Solar, honestly, is great but it's not budget-friendly, so if you can run a buried airline without a lot of obstructions, rocks, etc...that would be the best cost-wise but also for performance. Since you mentioned depth here all I need is to see the ponds and I can tell you what system would work best. Thanks again...Mark
I will contact you. Thank You
I would suggest Barley extract or the pellets
Definitely, barley is worth looking into. Most research has shown it's most helpful as a retardant to algae growth rather than a treatment...so it needs to be applied ahead of any blooms for the best effect. For small ponds, I think pellets or liquid concentrate can be fine, or the bales...for larger ponds I like to suggest people look close to home for dried bales from a farm direct source...you'll get it a lot cheaper that way.
What is the micro bacteria that is good for both purchase and use in consuming degrading organic matter on the bottom?
Thanks for the question. There are a couple products you could look at. The main product is the PondBiotix ME, muck pellets. These help with old much and sludge thats in the decayed state. For fresh organics like leaves, dead algae, and dead weeds, you could apply the PondBiotix MDC which is an enzyme catalyst...it speeds up the breakdown of these fresh organics to a point where the microbes in the ME, and the pond environment can then digest the rest. I hope this is helpful for you!
What about pond dye to cut sunlight feeding the algae?
Dye is OK if the algae or weeds are submerged fully but it may not be enough all on it's own. The only downside to dye is that if it's applied too densely it can affect the base of the food change for fish. I have always looked at dye as a possible add on but more than anything I'm looking to lower and balance excess nutrients, often through a combination of aeration and microbial supplements.
I prefer barley extract. The straw turns into a big mess
Great point!
I used fine cornmeal in a womans stocking and suspended it . Cleared in 3 days.
Excellent suggestion. Cornmeal can work to bind up phosphates and that can be helpful. Its not a sure thing by any means...but it can work if pH is reasonable and the source of the phos isn't consistently recharging the pond. Glad it worked for you!
I just saw a German video and they just throw a liter of full milk in it.
I have never heard of that honestly. I would be slightly concerned about a pond with fish and critters. I can't speak for every state but found this on colorado waterways - www.dgslaw.com/news-events/dairy-farmers-and-food-producers-must-use-caution-when-disposing-of-excess-milk-and-other-food-waste-in-response-to-coronavirus-driven-demand-reductions...so there is an effect in water, but much would depend on the amount and frequency I suspect. Anyway, there are certainly more established ways to deal with the problem Peroxide and barley being some of the more widely known. Even these are hit and miss with how effective they are so its hard to say just how effective milk would be on a widespread basis. Thanks for sharing!
Milk is really bad if it gets in to water ways, so can't be good for ponds
If it breaks down and it creates something like a hydrogen. Peroxide, will that add any oxygenation to the water?
Hi Alan...I'm not sure if you are asking about using peroxide as a treatment for algae...(hydrogen peroxide is not typically thought of as a byproduct of orgranic decomposition) but in essence, yes, its presence would add a bit of oxygen to the water for a short time. It may not be sustained for very long at all and is probably not going to help all that much. Lots of variables could be involved though...temp of the water....amount of plant growth, etc.