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KLM Ponds
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Pond algae control in ponds and water gardens can be a challenge.
Since 2004 Pond Algae Solutions has provided a wide range of products that have been tested for their effectiveness and safety. We emphasize eco-friendly methods of pond management and algae control and will help anyone, with any size of pond.
Our CZcams channel provides helpful tips and advice for not only dealing with pond algae problems but we'll also discuss all kinds of topics related to pond care. We hope you'll find them helpful in your effort to create a better pond or water garden.
Visit us at pondalgaesolutions.com the next time you need help or have a question, we're happy to be of service.
How To Set Up A Remote Manifold With Your DIY Pond Aerator
Discover how to effectively use a remote manifold in your pond's aeration system. Learn the best setups, save money on components, and get expert tips on installation.
americanaeration.com/products/remote-manifold-package
Want more information on using remote manifolds with your aeration system? Here's some other videos that may be of interest.
czcams.com/video/MKNomBsqm1g/video.htmlsi=mCKdVQUn6HpDdHps
czcams.com/video/8POjEKYJrBI/video.htmlsi=u6M-fJoGpoCQB_Im
If you have questions or need assistance, reach out to us at americanaeration.com
americanaeration.com/products/remote-manifold-package
Want more information on using remote manifolds with your aeration system? Here's some other videos that may be of interest.
czcams.com/video/MKNomBsqm1g/video.htmlsi=mCKdVQUn6HpDdHps
czcams.com/video/8POjEKYJrBI/video.htmlsi=u6M-fJoGpoCQB_Im
If you have questions or need assistance, reach out to us at americanaeration.com
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Video
New Solar Pond Aerators For 2024
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In this video, I'll review several of the new solar pond aerators in our lineup for 2024. Airmax has several new models and we've added the NightAir line of solar powered diffused aeration systems as well. I'll also cover some tips to get the best results with any solar aerator and how you can save a lot of money on an aeration system, even if your power is not right by the pond. 00:00 Introduc...
Phosphorus And Pond Algae - What Every Pond Owner Needs To Know
zhlédnutí 861Před 3 měsíci
Discover the crucial role of phosphorus in algae growth and effective management strategies you can use in your pond or lake. 00:06 Introduction 00:39 Phosphorus Basics 00:58 Phosphorus Sources 01:46 Phosphorus and Algae 04:13 Managing Phosphorus 05:39 Vegetative Buffers 07:12 Binding Phosphorus 09:30 Phosphorus and Aeration 10:19 Final Advice A basic test for phosphorus - amzn.to/4aviLCG For a...
Controlling Algae With Ultrasound - Two Critical Tests You Must Do First
zhlédnutí 492Před 3 měsíci
Ultrasound technology can work very well at controlling algae in ponds or lakes. But it is not a silver bullet in every case. There are two things you must test before you consider the purchase of an ultrasound system. For basic information about Ultrasonic Algae Control check out this video. czcams.com/video/KAELBnN4m3I/video.htmlsi=qG47CLMXizSCf3RO To learn more about the Pulsar Ultrasound Sy...
Dissolvd Oxygen - Does Your Pond Have Enough?
zhlédnutí 535Před 3 měsíci
In this video, I'll go over the importance of dissolved oxygen in your pond. What level is good, and what level is critical for maintaining healthy fish, as well as the most important things affecting oxygen in a pond. Aeration is critical to maintaining healthy oxygen levels in a pond. You can learn more about that at americanaeration.com 00:08 Oxygen Basics 01:15 Temperature Impact 02:49 Plan...
1 Acre Pond Aeration - Don't Make This Mistake
zhlédnutí 939Před 5 měsíci
Not all 1 acre ponds are the same. If you're looking to fit an aeration system to your one-acre pond, you'll want to consider these factors, along with the surface size and maximum depth. In a previous video I covered some of the best aeration systems for one-acre ponds. You can view that via the link below. czcams.com/video/6S_znBZY9B0/video.htmlsi=-3c6IcfDjKj KXS One thing I failed to mention...
Pond Aeration Airline - How To Calculate How Much You'll Need Using Google Earth
zhlédnutí 193Před 5 měsíci
Sometimes pond aeration layouts are pretty simple and straightforward, so you won't need a complicated aerial mapping to complete the job. But calculating how much airline you will need may still be confusing. Using Google Earth makes this simple and I show you how to do that in this video. I'll also cover what size of airline to use for various situations based on the size and depth of your po...
Kasco Robust Aire Aeration In Action
zhlédnutí 298Před 9 měsíci
Kasco Marine Robust Aire Diffused Aeration systems cover any pond from 1/4 acre on up to multi acre ponds and lakes. Here's a short video showing the underwater action of this powerful sub-surface aeration system. Diffused aeration provides many benefits including these: 1. Improved Oxygen Levels: Diffused aeration systems increase the oxygen levels throughout the water body, which is crucial f...
The Most Important Thing To Consider When Choosing A Pond Aerator
zhlédnutí 810Před 11 měsíci
Pond aerators come in a lot of different sizes and configurations but what's my priority when choosing one? If I had to choose between a standard areator, a solar direct drive aerator, a battery supported solar aerator, or a windmill aerator, which one would come out on top? All are useful, but they are not equal by any means. If you have questions about pond aeration, be sure to get in touch w...
5 Big Pond & Lake Aerator Mistakes And How To Avoid Them
zhlédnutí 20KPřed 11 měsíci
Getting an aerator in a pond is an exciting time and often comes with great expectations of improving the water quality or fish health. But there are common mistakes people make with these aerators. Whether it's from a DIY aerator setup or poor maintenance, all of these mistakes can cost you over time. In this video I'll cover some major mistakes, like an incorrect start up that can harm your f...
When Aeration Is Not Enough To Stop Algae
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 11 měsíci
Pond aeration can often have a dramatic effect on algae blooms. Increasing oxygen throughout the pond body supports some very important processes that actually help to clean and balance the pond of excessive nutrients. Aeration can also slow the aging of a pond down. By aging, I mean the gradual filling in of organic build up and debris. As years go by, this "compost" build up simply fuels more...
Is Algae Bad For A Pond?
zhlédnutí 875Před rokem
In today's Pond Q & A Of The Day we cover this question. Is algae bad for a pond? Algae is a natural part of a pond ecosystem and foundational to the aquatic food chain. Single-cell algae are fed on by zooplankton and microorganisms that ultimately feed and sustain fish. Algae is actually essential to a healthy pond environment. But too much of even a good thing can become problematic. In the v...
Winter Pond Aeration: Is It Necessary?
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Winter Pond Aeration: Is It Necessary?
How To Aerate A Pond - The 3 Most Effective Pond Aeration Methods
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How To Aerate A Pond - The 3 Most Effective Pond Aeration Methods
Temperatures And Your Pond - What Every Pond Owner Needs To Know
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Temperatures And Your Pond - What Every Pond Owner Needs To Know
Can Pond Aeration Help Reduce Phosphorus?
zhlédnutí 589Před rokem
Can Pond Aeration Help Reduce Phosphorus?
Quiet And Effective Pond Aeration - Airmax Delivers On Both
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Quiet And Effective Pond Aeration - Airmax Delivers On Both
A Value Priced American Made Pond Aerator Still Exists!
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A Value Priced American Made Pond Aerator Still Exists!
7 Top Rated Fountains For A 1/2 Acre Pond
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7 Top Rated Fountains For A 1/2 Acre Pond
2000 Dead Fish From A Pond Aerator - Right After Installation!
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2000 Dead Fish From A Pond Aerator - Right After Installation!
See Pond Algae Disappear - Without Chemicals!
zhlédnutí 6KPřed rokem
See Pond Algae Disappear - Without Chemicals!
Kasco VFX Aerating Fountains - Great Aeration With A Beautiful Display
zhlédnutí 1,8KPřed rokem
Kasco VFX Aerating Fountains - Great Aeration With A Beautiful Display
Pond Algae Control - Should I Use Hydrogen Peroxide Algaecide?
zhlédnutí 6KPřed rokem
Pond Algae Control - Should I Use Hydrogen Peroxide Algaecide?
The Best Affordable Shallow Pond Aerator
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The Best Affordable Shallow Pond Aerator
Rapid Fish Rescue: The Best Emergency Pond Aerator Revealed
zhlédnutí 881Před rokem
Rapid Fish Rescue: The Best Emergency Pond Aerator Revealed
Should I Leave My Pond Aerator On All The Time?
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Should I Leave My Pond Aerator On All The Time?
Do I Need To Aerate My Pond? - Is Pond Aeration Necessary?
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Do I Need To Aerate My Pond? - Is Pond Aeration Necessary?
The Dark Side of Pond Algaecides - What You Should Know Before Using One
zhlédnutí 6KPřed rokem
The Dark Side of Pond Algaecides - What You Should Know Before Using One
What are the best aerators to use.. I fully agree with what you say about the algae ideas so which kits are useful and do the job with out breaking the bank
I appreciate the question. So you really want to it an aerator the size and depth of your pond. Get that done properly and you'll have a system that covers you well. There are all kinds of prices ranges now of aerators and while I do think you want to get a decently good one, you don't have to pay top dollar for such a thing. Normally I would caution anyone from buying the super cheap imported stuff that's getting peddled these days. They'll work, some for a good while, but others don't run very long, have overheated and started fires, or can't be updated once the seals and gaskets wear out. But I respect how people want or need to spend their money with all that said. For a good value for the money, I would take a look at the EasyPro line. Good company, good aerators, and they aren't super expensive. americanaeration.com/collections/easy-pro-sentinel-pond-aerators
What is considered a high phosphorus level for a pond?
In our evaluation of using ultrasound to control algae blooms, the number we're looking for is less than 200 ppb, or 0.2 ppm. Above this some algae can grow quite rapidly making it hard for the technology to keep up. For general algae issues, the numbers vary a bit by source but 0.08 to 0.10 will kick off some periodic blooms. I think the number could be a bit lower to see some algae...but phosphorus levels are usually the limiting factor of just how strong the bloom might be...higher phosphorus = larger and more persistent algae blooms.
Why aren't the check valves closer to the diffusers?
This is a pretty old video and we don't work with that aerator (or small pond aerators in general) anymore so forgive me for a more generic response. The purpose of the check valves is to protect the pump from water coming back up the line. They would work anywhere between the diffuser and the pump. That said, all of the diffusers we work with now have check valves built into the diffusers themselves.
@@klmponds ok, thanks
I add beneficial bacteria and pull it out by hand
So I think manual removal is useful because it also removes nutrients with those plants...they don't get to recycle back into the water. But at some point, the microbes should lessen the algae growth to so noticeable extent. If not, tinker with the dose to see if a bit higher amount will help. Many I think underdose with microbes just by following the label directions.
Where to get repair kits?
It would depend on the pump model. Let me know on the brand and model number and I can give you more information.
@@klmponds OLF400D-140BS-A
If I got the code right, this is coming up as a Vevor pump...a chinese import. If vevor doesn't have the rebuild kit, I'm not sure who would. There were pumps early on they sold that did not have kits...not sure if this is one of them or not. Just curious...how long have you been running the pump? A fair number of people had theirs crap out pretty early on, some caught fire, etc. That's the word on the street at least.
There is a reply on the page for that pump, at the bottom...someone asked about rebuild kits and as of spring of 2024, they said they don't sell parts separately. They'll replace the pump within 12 months but after that, you may be out of luck.
The diffusers- which side faces up!? The black flat part or the white tube side?
Good question...the diffuser is facing up as it's shown in the image. The tubes would be on the top of the black base. This particular aerator is for small ponds so the tubes aren't elevated. On the larger pond systems all the diffuser membranes, whether they are plate shaped, or tube shaped, would be elevated up above the weighted base by at least a couple of inches.
Why are hot summers more of a concern than cold winters?
I would say it comes down to the oxygen holding capacity of water. Above 78 degrees, water starts to lose it's ability to retain oxygen. As temperatures go up the saturation point of dissolved oxygen also drops. This can take you closer to a threshold, where if you cross it, fish can start to suffer and die pretty quickly. It can be precipitated by weather events, algae and weed growth (and die off), among other things. In winter, the biggest risk is just having ice completely cover and lock up the pond from air and gas exchange at the surface...if this goes on too long, then sure, fish can die from that. But it doesn't seem as common as the risks you see in the summer. Aeration can be helpful and protective in both of the seasons of extremes.
I have a 2 acre ponds with a max depth of about 10 feet I would say the average is probably 6 ft over all live in western Kentucky and the primary goal is lmb also have bluegills and redear what would your recommendation be?
So if you have a spot around 10', if you get a diffuser there it will cover about 3/4 of an acre at that depth. As you lose depth you lose the range of coverage...so I'm thinking if you could get another (second diffuser) down to 10' or near that, you're at about 1.5 acres now...and a third diffuser in a more shallow area could cover the rest. Some of this depends on the shape of the pond too. To really be sure it would be best to contact me through the site and send over an address so I can view the pond from google earth, just to be sure. But I'm going to suggest probably a 1/2 HP pump with 3 diffusers would do. Something like this one as an example. americanaeration.com/collections/easy-pro-sentinel-pond-aerators/products/sentinel-1-2-hp-aeration-system
@@klmponds how can I contact you
Try this page, it your input will come to me. americanaeration.com/pages/pond-aeration-advisor
@@klmponds done!
I need help! I have a 700 gallon stock tank that I use for my ducks and geese. I know their poo is what is cause the green water algae, but I am having the darndest time filtering it out. I have 2 pumps going that I have draining through a pipe with a "T" at the bottom, in a 50gal barrel. I have fist size rock in the bottom, graduating up to pea gravel. Over that, I have filter material, then a load of lump charcoal, and finally, a filter on the outflow pipe back into the tank. The problem is that ( as best as I can tell) the pumps aren't sucking up the poo off the bottom of the tank, so I battle green water constantly when it is warm out. It irks me to dump 700 gallons of water almost weekly 🤬 Can someone please help me find the right sort of pump or filtration system?
What you need here is a biological filter (which you may have but depends on the media) and prime the tank with some beneficial bacteria...microbes. You have to take care of the nutrients that are coming from the waste. Filtering is good and all, but there may not be enough biological activity to break down the nutrients in the waste. Take a look at the 2500 dispenser system on our site, or the PondBiotix SP product...both of those are what I'm talking about as far as microbes. They may help...I say may, because nothing is a silver bullet. If you have re-circulation with the pumps and such you may also want to investigate a UV light...this would be specific for green water algae.
The PondBiotix ME pellets look like the pellets we sometimes feed the fish with. Will the fish eat them?
They could eat them...I would normally feed the fish first, then after apply the pellets. Kind of lessens the chances of consumption. That said, if they did eat them, it would not hurt them, and second they would poop out a lot of that bacteria anyway. Not the most direct route to the bottom I admit, but its not a huge thing if they eat a few pellets.
I like the cooling fan. Does it pull air in or blow air out?
Most fans pull air out as the heat builds up in the cabinet. The new Kasco ground cabinet is a bit different but still the idea is to evacuate the heat out of the cabinet.
So also make sure you have enough beneficial bacteria. Should you occasionally add them?
Yeah, for sure if the pond needs microbes, they can be really helpful...not every pond does. In terms of how often you should add them, some ponds do best with monthly treatments and others can have just a few to start a season and not need another until the next year. It varies a lot from pond to pond.
Can you do one showing the different style of diffusers?
I will make a point and try to do that in the future.
Nice video
I bought 2 toyota prius water pumps..for $60 shipped. They move alot of water and only draw around 1.5 amp @ 12 -20 DC volts . I then purchased a 80 watt flexible solar panel for $80 . I attached the 2 water pumps to a large inflated bicycle inner tube and then set the solar panel on top of the inner tube , so it all floats in my 1/2 acre pond that is about 5ft deep. . This simple and inexpensive system gives good agitation/aeration all powrred by the sun.
Are the output port fittings / screw threads all standard? I have a Thomas 2680CE44 but nothing specifies what size connector fits the discharge port to connect the distribution manifold.
Hi James...so across the board, no, the threads/ports are not the same on the different types of pumps. On most rocking pistons though like your Thomas, the port/thread size should be 1/4" fpt. I hope this helps for you! Mark
What about Barley extract?
I used to use it...but really only for small ponds, which I don't work with as much anymore. I think for the money you are just as well off looking for dried barley bales. For larger ponds, pellets have been easier to work with.
Curious about a unique situation a place we are considering purchasing has a pond in the back with heavy algae and no idea if there is anything living in it currently. it had a pump and filtration system that appears to not have worked in years. Since a friend recently took down an above gground pool I was wondering about using it primarily with out the sand and media just running it into a diy garbage can system with charcoal and lava rock plus a screen for larger debris. Do you think this would work as the water would return to the pond viia a series of small exiting waterfalls after exiting the bottom of the cans filter which should also exteensively aerate the pond. No sign of life in the pond but no way to tell either. I thought this as a possible option since if we tet this house bidget will be super tight for a long time to come and possibly dispose of potentiial moswquito issue
Its a tough call, but no doubt the problem with pool filters is mainly the media...so if that's changed out...it very well might work out the way you want. Basically you just need a way to hold media in place and for the water to run through it slowly. If you look at a typical bio filter or bio-falls, some are nothing more than a basin to hold media where the water fills and eventually overflows. The media is the key. Lava rock could work, as could many other things with some porous cavities and such. Its worth researching that area and picking something you'd like to try. But I'd give it ago in this case.
What about pond dye to cut sunlight feeding the algae?
Dye is OK if the algae or weeds are submerged fully but it may not be enough all on it's own. The only downside to dye is that if it's applied too densely it can affect the base of the food change for fish. I have always looked at dye as a possible add on but more than anything I'm looking to lower and balance excess nutrients, often through a combination of aeration and microbial supplements.
I would suggest Barley extract or the pellets
Definitely, barley is worth looking into. Most research has shown it's most helpful as a retardant to algae growth rather than a treatment...so it needs to be applied ahead of any blooms for the best effect. For small ponds, I think pellets or liquid concentrate can be fine, or the bales...for larger ponds I like to suggest people look close to home for dried bales from a farm direct source...you'll get it a lot cheaper that way.
Hi i have two ponds at min, old one is a raised wooden pond and new one is in ground. Old pond ph is between 7.0 and 7.5 new pond is between 8.0 and 8.5 for the life of me i can't get the ph same so i can move fish to new pond. Can you help? Old pond is 6×10×2 new pond is 17×11×3
Thanks for the question. I'm not sure I would stress too much about it...pH doesn't have to be perfect to be alright...and I don't get too concerned unless I'm pushing over 9.0 or such. There are commercial pH reducers and stabilizers which may be helpful. And while I might try them, if the pH doesn't hold near neutral I"m not prone to fighting with it too much. By the way if a small pond has any kind of concrete involved and its unsealed, it can leach lime out and raise the pH that way. I just wanted to mention that for people to check.
Much of it depends upon the individuals needs....do they need to try and limit algae growth, pond weed growth supply more oxygen for their fish, etc. I think most people with ponds 1 acre or less can benefit from the simple solar options especially since the cost of solar panels per watt have come down in price. For my 3/4 acre pond , I purchased 2 brushless water pumps for $20 each and they are rated to run for thousands of hours. I then bought a used 100 watt solar panel for $50. Each pump draws around 2 amps at 12 volts . I am running both pumps during the day, for free and it does a great job of agitating and aerating my pond. I have the pumps so they shoot the water stream about 6 inchs in the air, at a angle so when the water falls back down into the pond, it creates good agitiation, ripples, aeration. This is a inexpensive, simple and effective method for me which doesnt require any real maintenance because no batteries , invertors or charge controllers are needed. This makes it simple to extract the system in the winter months, when its not needed.
Price?
Check the link in the description (at the bottom). That will take you to the page with all the solar aerators and the pricing is shown there for each. Keep in mind, airline requirements may vary by pond size so that could affect the price a little bit too.
I noticed that you didnt mention that fountain style aration will provide a small amount of cooling effect. The falling spray through the air causes evaporation, and the water that doesn't evaporate ( about 95%) is cooler.
Good point...in some cases every little bit could help.
Nice! can you tell me (the Pulsar 3400 units) dimensions and weight!
Thanks! As you can see in the video, the transducer head is not too large. You could likely fit it in about a 10"x10"x10" box. The weight is around 15 lbs.
Good video... but my neighbor has been using one in his koi pond for years. No issues with fish...
Thank you...you are correct...they can be used with fish...IF the pH is relatively neutral. Testing alkalinity is also important. As the instructions with the device clearly note you want to check pH and alkalinity first. If its too high the copper will likely precipitate out too fast. Too low and copper will build up and can become toxic to fish. I error on the side of caution with advice when they are not my fish:)
Does the compressor make a lot of noise?
Some...in my testing with a 1/4 HP pump which would typically be used to power a single diffuser and sometimes up to 2 of them...the sound ouput ranged from about 60db up to 65db in the brands we carry...this was taken with a meter 2' away. It drops off as you get farther away of course. I have a video on my channel showing this testing. Search, How Loud Is A Pond Aerator and it should come up.
Sorry Dude there's not audio.?????
There is audio...unfortunately its only on one channel. Your left ear might love it.
However we are lucky to get a year out of pond pumps and filters. They are poor quality and over the last 15 years we have tried most all of them. The pool systems are cheaper and last longer. The most recent one last 2 months.
Thats pretty poor longevity. As far as pumps go, I might suggest reaching out to Performance Pumps and see what they have to say about it...one of the best I have ever run into...and the people know how to set them up. This video is pretty old and we don't work with small ponds anymore but I figure they are still around.
Yes, you can drive out too much CO2 from the water column, if you over aerate your pond. Also, your aquatic plants will suffer from too little CO2, they will not to be able to uptake the nutrients that are in the water column properly. Slow and steady will always win in the end.
Duckweed floats. All you have tio do is scoop it out witha screen, and you wont be polluting other organisms in the water.
That would be my preference if it's easy enough to do for someone. If the pond is small enough it usually is. Larger ponds and lakes...its not usually as simple.
@@klmponds As you said, if you act fast, you get them before they become an issue. But if you are careless and let them strive, take responsibility and do what's environmentally more healthy. Since the 1960s we've seen how chemicals have ruined our lives and environment. Please avoid promoting chemicals when there are more friendly methods.
Our neighbor treats his lawn which runs off into our pond! I do not treat our lawn for that very reason!
You'd be surprised how often I hear this...sometimes its tough to deal with the neighbors!
Great video explaining the differences. Thank you! I'm having trouble figuring out a good plan to take care of my 6 acre farm pond that runs 3-6ft deep. The inline makes the most sense for cost of operation but covering the distance is tough with power only available on one side of the pond.
I agree with you...this is a big pond, and the other challenge is not much depth to work with. If you would want to email me through the website I can take a look at it and at least try and offer some suggestions - americanaeration.com/pages/pond-aeration-advisor
super
The hydrogen sulfide gas trapped in the pond muck, as organic matter is broken down, is produced by anaerobic bacteria. Once you aerate the pond, you drive the hydrogen sulfide gases from the pond muck into the water column. Hydrogen sulfide is a poison to any aquatic organisms (fish, snails and etc). The reason why you start out turning on the aeration first for a short period the first day, is because, the pond needs time to blow off the hydrogen sulfide. Also, when you start to aerate, you throw off the balance of anaerobic and aerobic activity. The pond needs time to re- establish the new balance, so, that’s why you go a little longer each following day.
Well stated!
We've been fighting this war in our 1 1/2 acre pond for 11 years now primarily with capture and herbacides. We just installed aeration and are moving to pond dye and liquid microbial bacteria this week. Advice?
Hi Jim...I guess my main advice would be to be liberal with the microbial...of course you want to dose at at a base level, to your pond volume...whatever the label calls for. But you also have to account for the nutrient loading too...if you have a lot of algae I would assume that is pretty high, so most often i will actually double the recommended amount for the first month or so...look for changes in the growth...any reaction or reduction would indicate you are affecting nutrient levels enough to curb the growth. I only do this for a month or two to evaluate. If I don't see significant change, after that time, or if I want to just test this early on, I'll have a phosphorous test done to see where that level is at. If that is particularly high, a phos binder may be called for just to help everything shift into better balance.
@@BirdLife365project Thanks for your quick response. I discovered I left out some important info: our pond is fed by a natural spring, about 4 farm tiles, and two overland waterways off farm fields. Even if we can diminish the compost pile on the bottom of the pond, do we stand a chance against the nutrient load coming in from neighboring farm fields growing corn (for the last 12 years without rotation)?
Reducing organic build up at the bottom of the pond is always helpful but it is a slow process, but it can be done. I would say if you are getting a lot of run off from surrounding ag fields, think about creating some vegetative buffer strips around the pond that could absorb some runoff nutrients...and for any incoming streams, I would investigate the idea of creating vegetation bogs which could help filter and clean the water a bit before it gets into the pond. Its really all about nutrient management and doing your best to curb the effects of that on the pond in whatever way is practical for you.
@@klmponds We have followed your microbial advice, doubling the dosage for the first month, added 2 aerator pads, and have kept the pond dyed. No fibrous algae pads now and for the most part the pond looks so much better. The water is clear, but has a micro thin sheet of what appears to be short strands of algae on the top of the water. Each strand is about a quarter inch long, and very thin. The strands look gray in the morning, then green in the afternoon and brown in the evening. Is this fibrous algae that can't implant on the bottom to form pads and instead floats on the surface?
Good to hear things are looking better for you. So it sounds like a form of algae...probably coming to the surface to pick up some sunlight and then dying off pretty quick. Or it could just be coming off some stuff down below as the nutrients continue to balance out. My inclination is just to keep the course for a bit longer...if you feel you want to add another round of biological it may continue to improve things, or this could be a short lived event as things continue to progress. I would say the positive thing here is you did see measurable improvement with aeration and microbes so that's where I'd keep my focus for awhile. There is no free-floating algae that is immune from this approach...although another nutrient like phosphorus could, if it's quite high, be less affected in the short term by microbial treatments.
This happened to me I lost 300 tilapias various sizes
That is always a tough experience. But, we learn as we go sometimes.
Can linear piston stay outside in cold climates? Summers 80° winter in the teens
From my observations here in Iowa, I've had no problems with them thus far in cold weather. Heat is really the enemy of most of these pumps so that's a bigger concern.
How do you stop ants, spiders, etc... from getting into that comfy warm box? My current box and fan is full of bugs, and they even gunk up the fan, which breaks, then the pump / capacitor break.
Great question...I'm not sure I have a great answer but you might research Diatomaceous earth and see if that might work when sprinkled around the cabinet.
Will bottom areation help reduce bottom sludge over time?
In a general sense, yes, it could. Hard to say how much really and it will vary from pond to pond. The increase in dissolved oxygen near the bottom supports this effort...and I would say if you combine aeration with muck digesting microbials, it can help. Even with those though its not a sprint. Overtime though you can work it down.
Thank you. Hope others see this. It with save them fish and $$$
Thank you Thomas!
Great video. I have a 1/4 acre pond with a depth of 9' on one end and tapers off to 2' on the other end with 4'-5' being the average. I have a 3/4 hp pump and two 8" diffusers I am installing. I figure I'd put one in the hole mounted to a cinder block to keep it off the bottom and the other in about 4' of water the same way. Right now I have a fountain that runs 12 hrs on 12 hrs off. My questions are: 1) Should I keep the fountain running as well? maybe fountain in day and sub-surface at night? 2) Are the 8" diffusers to small? (my kit was supposed to come with 10" and I was sent 8") Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Thanks for the kind words! By the sounds of it I don't think you'd need to run both the fountain and the aerator...maybe figure out which is more economical and go with that most of the time. If things get really hot there and that goes on for awhile, then maybe run the fountain more or as you say at night and just avoid mixing the pond so much, which can heat it up quite a lot. I say that too because this pond isn't that large and the pump is a bit of an overkill just horse power wise. I'm assuming this is a Vevor pump or something like it...on the one hand thats probably good because it only puts out the air of a 1/2 HP...on the other hand it costs what a 3/4 HP would normally to run...so they are not terribly efficient. I have two systems that actually use a 1/4 HP pump to run 2 diffusers and the other uses a 1/2 HP...the 1/4's cost about 15 bucks a month to run full time. Keep that in mind if the 3/4 HP gets a bit pricey to run for you...it does for some people and they limit how much they run it...which is not a good idea. For the diffusers, honestly I don't know about that one...I don't think size is the only thing here that's important...I mean some systems use sticks, or tubing loops that do really well. Mostly it would come down to how small the holes actually are in the membrane..I would be more concerned with that than the overall size, and unfortunately I've never looked over the vevor kits that closely to know. I hope this helps for you a bit.
@@klmponds - Thanks for the quick reply. yeah, it's a Vevor kit. I wanted to see if I could minimize algae growth and maybe clear up some muck with it. I didn't want to spend a small fortune to test this out. I'm in Mich so hot weather isn't really an issue here, at least lately. No fish to really speak of (yet) except for minnows and a few fish that are maybe 6". Trying to find something that would clean it up a bit but grass carp are not legal here.
You're welcome. No problem...go with what makes the most sense for you and your budget. Really for water quality, algae management you should have plenty of aeration. Remember though, aeration alone may or may not curb algae...its the microbial base in the pond that's mostly affecting the nutrients...and aeration support that really well. So see how it goes. Aerate as much as you want or can afford and try to go 24/7 with something. Give it a month or so and see if you note any changes in the algae...if not, look for something microbial to add in there. An example would be our Biosphere Pro product but there are many kinds on the market. I'm thinking about a video that addresses this very topic...so you have aeration...now what? Something like that...look for that in the next week or so and it will probably give you some things to try down the road...if you need to.
I got a 4 acre commercial pond to install it's built like a moat with an island in the middle what should I use to diffuse.
The best thing to do would be to go to this page and fill in some info....if you can include an address or location so I can view the pond on google earth it will give me an idea of how to lay something out. Note two other things...the depth in a couple areas and where power is...the pond is larger enough to warrant doing an aerial mapping on it to make sure you know first, what will cover it and two how much airline will be involved to do the layout. Go here and put in some details: americanaeration.com/pages/pond-aeration-advisor
How much chemical does one use for a pond that is 0.15 acres
Hi Teresa...if you check out this page on the Sonar (fluridone) product...look for the image with the dosage chart on it...you are right around 24 oz on the first treatment and 12 oz on follow up treatments. Of course follow all the label directions and precautions. - amzn.to/3KyIteW
Well this is exactly what i was searching for. Thanks!
Thanks Brad!
Is siphoning water (while the pump is off )a problem? I Am installing a pump. My pond is higher than the power source. Thank you
No, it shouldn't be a problem.
I have had a pond for 20 years, it's 50 feet by 150 feet and an average of 12 feet deep. We have it stocked with koi fish and we do have 2 air stones plus I dye it. The problem I'm having is that it's very cloudy and I have a brown film on the surface. When it rains the film goes away but does return. The water tests come back all where they should be but it's never looked like this, any ideas what I can do to clear it up.
It could be a form of algae near the surface...you might have some suspended stuff in the water too...just particulates that won't settle out. You could try a couple things. If you haven't tried a beneficial microbe product that may help clean some of this up. Something like our Biosphere Pro, in the 1/2 to 1 acre size...more is a bit better to start with and try treating for two months back to back. This can help if it's an algae that's popping up. For suspended stuff, look for what's called a flocculent. We have a pond clarifier liquid on our site which is used for that. As well you could consider more of a custom floc from someplace like siltstop.com
We have a small quarry. We have an aerator and pump. We add biologicals to keep algae growth down. There was no problem until the person up stream filled in the swampy area, planted grass and added fertilizer. How much should we run the pump? Is there anything else we can do to control algae?
Sorry to hear your neighbor fertilized your pond. I would run the aerator 24/7 if you are able. As well use the microbes but consider being aggressive with the dosing. Take the recommended dosage rate for the product and at least double that for a month and see if that is helpful. You not only need to match or exceed the water volume of the pond, which is usually a standard dose, but also address that spike in nutrients...so be liberal with those...they will continue to be safe to use even at higher doses.
I need a lot of help. Information is the only way to solve my problems. After 20 years of peace with my Koi pond we had a bank cave way into are pond, sadly we lost our biggest Koi to predators. Raccoons liked the gentle bank, cold fish and shallow water.
Hi George...I'll be right up front with you...we don't work with smaller ponds much anymore...that said though, I think you have probably answered your own question. If you had good success over the years, keeping predators at bay...and it sounds like you did...you'll want to rebuild that bank...get more immediate depth to hinder the waders from getting in there so easily. If the pond has shallowed out, look to dredge it or clean out some of the areas that need it to restore depth again. Depth may not solve all your problems but it is certainly the best place to start in my opinion. Thank you again for your question and I hope in some way my answer is helpful!
@@klmponds Thank you.
Expense
It will vary on cost based on the size of the sphere (size of the pond you are trying to treat). Here's a link for you if it's not in the description: pondalgaesolutions.com/collections/biosphere-pro-beneficial-bacteria