Re: Performance Issues - EricTheCarGuy
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Re: Performance Issues - EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at: www.ericthecarg...
See Part 1
• Solving Engine Perform...
There was a lot of response to the original videos and therefore a lot of questions that I wanted to answer to so I've made this video in response to those. I felt I needed to drive home the process that I take when ever I'm confronted with a performance problem as that was what I felt the take away from the original videos should be. I hope this series helps better your understanding of performance problems and how to solve them. Remember to start with the basics and try not to overcomplicate the problem, most performance problems are the result of simple causes and with a little investigation you can usually find the cause of many engine performance problems.
If you have automotive questions the fastest way to get a response is to head over to my website and forum as I no longer answer CZcams comments and it takes me a while to get through email these days, here's a link.
www.ericthecarg...
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
I have fixed cars for 20 years and still learning, watching these videos is very educational, and i hope you continue to post videos on youtube to educate people
Thanks for the videos! I replaced my spark plugs and wires when I had a similar problem in both of my vehicles (both hadn't had spark plug or wire changes in +100k miles), they run much better now and the major problems are now gone. I'm a physician, and there are a lot of parallels in diagnosis in medicine.
I just want to say thank you for these videos. I also subscribed to your ETCG1 channel as well. It's like having a mechanic in my living room. lol It really helps that you were a Honda/Acura tech since thats what I own. You have saved me A LOT of money already. Even before my car has had an issue I'd look over what you talk about to be sure all is well. Thanks again and keep up the great videos.
@1:03 It's just we're putting new coversheets on all the TPS reports before they go out now. So if you could go ahead and try to remember to do that from now on, that'd be great. All right!
I recently had a 2000 Rodeo throwing an EVAP vent code. I finally figured out that it was a wasp that had crawled through the final passages of the EVAP vent under the car above the spare tire. That was a PITA to find, but I was so happy to find that 1/4" passage plugged with mud from a bug. That was a true BUG in my car. You can NEVER assume the worst! Always use smart logic to track down the issue. Thanks Eric, love the vids, keep 'em coming.
Dude your awesome!!! I been watching this channel for two and a half hours now. You got a real good approach at teaching. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for being awesome, Eric! I'm about to check my own spark plugs (+ MAS sensor, etc) for the first time- thanks to you!
Issue: suddenly maxing out at 2000 rpms 40 kms/hr on incline, no dash lights.
(2005 Mazda Tribute 4 cyl 2.3L)
As a parts guy, I've always given the same advice you have here. If you're going to throw parts, throw the basic preventative maintenance parts that are probably due anyway.
When you were talking about the workings of sensor circuits and their influence on performance, this made me think of the videos you did with mr. Danner at rosedale tech. Since then I have watched most of his videos despite some being loooooong.
Most important lessons I took from these vids:
- obd cant tell you everything
- circuit analysis is major important
- manufactorer troubleshooting diagrams are generally quite manky
About spark plug gap.. gap set at the factory. When I got out of the military in the mid seventies, I went to work for a tune up start up company sponsored by Mario Andreti. My 10 min. introduction to tune up mechanics, "change the rotor, the dist. cap and the plug, don't burn yourself, you don't have to check the spark plug gap, it's set at the factory..". Summer in Oakland and every car coming in was hot.. my fingers got roasted and seeing that specific aspect of the job not changing anytime soon, I went to work someplace else.
excellent advice; never in all performance problems have I found a bad sensor.They cost alot of money, so it is better to start with routine maitenance - especially the fule filter.5 stars brotha....
eric, youve helped me tremedously the last few weeks with work. ive been using your methods and yeilding excellent results.
Well said! Short story, I took my 2007 C70 T5 in for performance issue. Sort of a mucky wave of power delivery not linear. NO LIGHT ON! dealer wanted to drop parts in it etc. I took it home and started looking for obvious intake leaks loose plugs waste gate issues. I finally realized others online have the same problem with tons of volvos with turbo. No solutions. I pulled fuses and saw good fuses but dirty legs. Car was shipped over seas so wallah sand paper and fixed. Sea air to blame.
I like how Eric is really smart. Not just car stuff but just smart in general.
@13:58 "Don't poop for a week, and go runnin' around and see how good you do". Priceless and unapologetically blunt analogy, Eric. :)
I had a really bad stumble and miss in my 95 Chevy G20 5.7 Boy the plugs cap rotor and wires did the trick !!! Old girl runs great not perfect but really drivable and hopeing to use it to pick up my new sleeper if I get it,, 86 Plymouth Caravell 2.2 turbo !!
My NGK spark plugs for my accord is what my owner manual stated. No adjustment needed. Thumbs up ETCG
Eric: Thanks for your on going series.. You have a natural ability to convey information to a wide audience. I listen to a variety of videos along the lines of yours on a wide variety of subjects, & there are some exceptionally talented people of great knowledge
who are incapable of communicating it to others. . I often listen to your videos just to remind myself that not ALL people who produce them are dolts. Thank you again & Happy New Year. Brian Hind
Eric!!!! Dude... I dont post comments on much things but buddy I JUST have to say thank you for all you do! Only person that makes any sense on CZcams in regarding auto repair! Love the work and keep it up!
Eric, it would be awesome if you could cover basic electrical stuff! Electrical is my weak point but every time I study up on it or attend a class I retain a little more information. I'm sure there are plenty of other guys out there who are the same and would really appreciate an electrical video. Thanks for teaching us all so much!
I love the way you talk to us! I love the way you care! I can feel the way you think...
Love the chronicles and feedback eric,
im going to buy myself a scanner and start checking out what CEL code my engine is throwing at me, and play with it to make sure it runs at the most optimal values. thanks for getting me dirty on weekends!
I agree with you, the idea of computer control is system is to help you not to work against you, the problem is most people don't have the experience like guys like you, you can almost tell just by listening and then do the research. I would think you did it the hard way the first time and remember and learn from it but most of all you don't take anything for granted and use your head.
Holy cow, the amount of information on this video is just mind blowing
good rule of thumb is, if ground electrode is straight across firing electrode (not bent up or down) it's going to be pretty damn close, if you have the right plug for application. yes always replace the inexpensive parts first which is typically normal service parts that's over due to start with.
I'm guilty of this. My bet was glitchy TPS. Diagnostics are awesome. Keep these great videos coming +1.
My boss bought a new box truck last year and it stalled and wouldn't start back up. It turns out there was mouse that chewed up part of the wiring harness and the oil sensor thought there was no oil in the engine, so it shut it off.
Wow that's unfortunate that's some hungry mouses, was you able to solve the problem.
I guess I'm kinda off topic but does anybody know a good place to watch new tv shows online?
@Drew Princeton i would suggest flixzone. You can find it on google =)
@Everett Tobias yup, been watching on flixzone for years myself :)
@Everett Tobias Thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :) Appreciate it !
I second that motion,his videos just make sense and I keep coming back.
I learned the lesson of "start with the basics" over and over again, but the one that finally stuck was when the brake-lights quit working on my car -- I immediately suspected the brake-light switch, and replaced it. Still no brake lights Must be a wiring problem, so I traced the wires front to back. Still no brake lights. Turned out that both bulbs had blown at the same time - had I checked them FIRST, I would've saved a LOT of time. Start with the basics, EVERY TIME.
To anyone that sees this - you will never buy a more important tool than a Scanner. You don’t even need a fancy one, go grab one for around $20 to review check engine lights. That light is you FRIEND and will make diagnosing infinitely easier. Do not be afraid of the Check Engine Light!!!
Something i've been told before on iridium and platinum tip long life spark plugs is, the gap should never be changed. Increasing or decreasing the gap of the plug can damage the coating on the plug tip, causing the plug to not operate correctly. If you drop a plug and damage/bend the tip, you need to throw the plug away and get another. Do like eric showed at 2:37 and if it looks good, install it. Again this is what i've been told by the guys i work with that have been doing this for years.
I have also found NGK spark plugs to be spot on...
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We are trying to figure out the break system on our twin turbo 65 mustang on youtube and some debate on running the spiral section or Z bends from MC to Distribution block...
Hes right, always check the connectors! My ABS module was throwing a check engine light and throwing my car into limp mode (couldnt get out of first gear, above 25MPH), i took out all the brake hoses and pump and tried everything to fix it! It ended up being a wire that was cut clean but at the very bottom it had a bit of plastic holding it together (it was all green and rusted), all i did was solder a new wire to connect it together and fixed it right up! It sucked having to use the OBD2 tool to bleed the ABS pump then do a manual bleed two times to get all the air out! Always start simple and work your way back up! If i checked to see if it was getting its 12v i wouldve saved so much time!
I agree with you on the Autolite Plugs and putting in the right plugs. I have had so many issues with people getting cheap plugs. Changing the fuel filter can't hurt. I have to admit that I would have started by watching fuel trims before I would have changed a filter or plugs though. The TPS doesn't have to be replaced to be tested, I use and old Analog meter and move it slowly and see if the needle stay steady throughout the whole sensor.
thank you so much eric for all this information . i had a long standing problem with my car and through watching your i fixed the problem myself
I am a used car dealer, Sole proprietor and wanted to say thank you for taking time to make these videos! ima d.i.y. kinda guy don't really like messing with getting my stuff done if I can do it my self, simply to maximize my profit margin.... I send my buddies or customers that do their own mechanic work to your links.... Iv had simple problems cost me potential sales which = $1000s.... Had I realized what was wrong at the time through simple, accurate trouble shooting, it could of made me Ks..
Something that was never done in this or the previous videos is live data monitoring. That's why we have OCD 2 equipment with live data display, so we can see things like TPS and other sensors, and then go from there. Instead of guessing and throwing parts on a car, gather live data and see what is off. If nothing seems off, then the next thing would be a tune up. But without looking at and analyzing live data, you are literally guessing at one of hundreds of things it could be.
@TheKienTube With residue in mind, absolutely. I used to work with producing photoelectric receivers, and the last thing we always cleaned them with was isopropyl alcohol because it leaves no residue at all. Acetone for instance leaves a carbon residue. Considering that C is conductive, this is bad news for electronics. Fun fact: The only thing in the world that removes fingerprints from said sensors? Water :-O
Eric, first off, I want to say I really enjoy your videos, you are very knowledgable, and you have helped many many people. I just want to contribute some info. I have strayed from using a scan tool for checking sensors like that, especially TPS. I prefer to use a scope (DSO / Lab Scope), or atleast a Graphing Meter (Vantage for me), they can drop out so quick the scan tool will never see it. And data substitution will lie to you on the scan tool, it will show you voltage on a 100% dead sensor.
Eric, I don't know if it is still true but they used to use fish oil on wire insulation to keep it from drying out and becoming brittle. It works very well because it is also a high dielectric value. However some scientists think that it is the magnetic fields induced in the wire causes the mice to munch. For what it's worth!
Thanks for all your great videos!
I used an electrical contact spray to clean my MAF (18 year old Mercedes) and it worked fine. Best single thing I have ever done to a car to improve performance, kickdown (automatic) and 3-4 extra mpg.
had a bit of an epiphany watching this. I believe in an internal combustion engine you need proper spark, air flow, and fuel flow/pressure for combustion. oil for lubrication and coolant for keeping everything from overheating. As you've seen every element has some simple part that you need to change out every so many miles. Then I assume more advanced diagnosing would be to fully check each system from its source to the engine for leaks/blockage/damage.
Good video! I used the same code scanner to figure out a low temperature error on my escape. It turned out to be a bad thermostat, not the sensor. So you are right don't assume it is the sensor it might be mechanical! Thanks Eric.
I had that issue and it was a faulty O2 sensor, replaced it and never had another issue in several years. Sometimes it is trial and error to eliminate the problem. like Eric says, use sensible parts that may be needed anyway.
That is very much correct as far as damaging the tip goes but I doubt that you will notice an issue with the plugs not working correctly. Course if you damage the coating, you are basically paying extra for plugs that will wear out like normal plugs so...kinda a stupid thing to do.
Great thing for TPS check is a Scanner that can show you a characteristic curve, so drops are better located, helps with every sensor that has a potentiometer.
i love you eric...i love to fix cars..but im not pro like u...and u r like a messiah to me...ur videos r so helpfull...
I hope he makes lots of money making these videos from sponsors and such, he deserves it!
There was a time I changed a tps and it actually ran worse. I hooked an ohmmeter to the contacts and as I rotated the movable part the readings were jumping all over the place with the new one. The old one was actually better.
One thing I wish you’d cover if you haven’t already is long and short term fuel trim and the indicators it gives you that points to certain problems. One example is one bank running consistently richer than the other. And what is the normal range it should be in.
My motorhome still has points ignition, and I noticed spark gap made quite a difference in how well it ran, especially at idle. But I would agree, it's not as imperative on electronic systems.
LOL!! @ 17:05. eric it looked like you out a lot of effort and strength into that finger snap!!! that IS nothing but love!
it definitely makes sense to check the easy inexpensive stuff first.
I totally agree on the spark plug thing.... If you are a noob, then ofcourse check the gap to be sure, but if you are skilled you will notice if something is wrong almost instantly.
Thanks 4 all your videos.
you are the best explaining the issues. Thank you Eric.
Quick add on to previous comment: issue was similar to your injector video where it failed because of power voltage. Yes power was present but under load the corrosion on the under the hood fuses was not enough to pass voltage to operate turbo injectors etc. The tall tale sign to me was corrosion on the valve cover from sea air. This car was 2007 with only 23k miles and this issue didn't occur until 4/12. For all the other guys that have volvos this is why they cant solve your issue.
the reason u don't have to set the gap on NGK plugs u just have to look at them to make sure they look the same and the electrode is not touching... the reason is because every vehicles that use the same NGK plug part number have the same gap so NGK presets the gap for u and puts the protective sleeve to help keep the gap from getting damaged so most likely if your car calls for a specific NGK plug part number all the other engines that use that part number have the same plug gap
Emilio Marranzino You do have to gap NGK plugs. I run them in my Subaru's, even with the sleeve, the gapping is never right.
the BKR5E-11 (All 90's/early '00 Subaru's) is supposed to be preset to 0.044", I have had them come anywhere from 0.039" to 0.050" in the same box.
sister had a 94 Toyota Camry with the 22re. Thing would intermittently not want to start. We put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump. It turned out that the catalytic converter was clogged and there was too much pressure built up on start up. Hollowed out the cat, started up no problems after that!!
Hey Eric, i still feel that you should change the spark plug wires. i fully agree with your transmission approach however i feel the spark plug wires could still be at least partially to blame. maybe test the resistance of each wire and take it from there! i noticed it doesnt crank consistently hot/cold and from my (arguably small) subaru experience, old wires do that and sometimes create a surging power situation. Great videos, keep it up!
Electronics explained: BCAE1.com. It's audio oriented, but it's still a good thing.
I want to say that Subaru likes to send most of the power to the front wheels by default. This keeps the gas mileage up. However, when the car is up on jacks this will cause the wheels to move at different rates. When it senses this, it will apply the brakes to send more power around to detect/fix the situation. I would bet you'd get the same result out of a 2012 Legacy off the lot.
about Mass flow sensor most are a wire of metal and is heated like a oven element so the air entering in the intake cool down the wire and the resistence goes down so, this is how the computer calculate how much air goes in the motor so ,it's important to use only mass cleanning stuff see how it work wikipedia and CRC MAF cleaner have some good info about that
In software, when we write code we have to write "unit tests." The unit test proves that the "unit" of code you wrote does exactly what it's supposed to under any condition. Well-written code does one thing and it does it well. An error in code might have nothing to do with the symptoms; it could be much further upstream. The same thing happens in cars. To debug code, we start at the top and reject one potential error after another until we get to the root problem. The similarities between careers are there.
I loved the side-bar on mice! I've learned to keep splices handy. Great videos Eric
As far as TPS goes you can test them easy with a screw driver and a multimeter set to ohms. All a TPS does is work like a spring loaded volume knob. In most cases you have three poles and between two of them you should be able to turn up or down the resistance on ohms by turning the center. On a ford it starts at 0 and goes to 12-13 or so. Turn it from top to bottom and it should count like 0, .01, .02 ect without skipping any numbers or jumping around. If it is bad you will know from this easy.
Careful pulling the O2 sensor! In my car (Crown Vic) the O2 sensor bung points at the engine wiring harness and the O2 sensor connector.
Fortunately the wiring was left intact, but the split loom around it melted off and the O2 sensor connector turned into a blob of goo. And I only drove for 2 minutes.
Oh well, at least I found out my cat was clogged.
Proper way to test is with an exhaust backpressure tester. They're only ~$20 at harbor freight... >4 psi is very clogged.
Let me ask you how much time do you spend on TPS reports?
EricTheCarGuy I HAVE CHECKED SPARK PLUG GAPS EVERY TIMES BUT I NEVER HAD TO ADJUST THE GAP. I
JUST BUY THE SPARK PLUG FOR THE VEHICLE !
Burb traction control,same problem. 5 dealers no fix 50000miles finally took to a small shop found front bearing just little loose replace hub, fixed
I use electrical cleaner on MAF & MAP sensors. Haven't had any problem so far, plus it evaporates a few seconds after spraying/cleaning.
Alot of times especially on Hondas the TPS can be at fault with no cell. The rivets they use to hold on the throttle bodie are not the best ant the sensor can move over time. Most 90s hondas should be set so the TPS reads .48v at idle and 4.5v at WOT. Can do wonders with the power and smoothness of the car. Also rats love spark plug wires ect because manufactures have started using organic compounds in there wire coating.....easy food.
I was disappointed that it wasn't a clogged injector problem because I wanted to see you clean the injectors. But, even better, it's an all wheel drive issue. Here's a title that will get a lot of hits for a video "How does all wheel drive work?". That video would be gold.
FYI I used to work at a pvc manufacturing plant which has a compounding plant on the same site which mixes all sorts of things in with the basic pvc to change its end properties and one of the ingredients it mixes in is FAT, yes fat to give a certain type of plastic its flexible property and i know this cos ive had to clean out and powerwash said plastic barrels...so thats why our furry friends like to chomp on it.....amongst other things....so get an ultrasonic mouse scarer.....cheap as chips, excellent for that very job.
If you have an android smartphone/tablet, you can purchase a bluetooth OBD2 device and use the Torque app just like a scan tool at a much cheaper cost (if you already own the phone that is). Look up Torque OBD2 on youtube!
I love your videos! You are a very knowledgeable mechanic and you explain things very very well :)
Definitely would really appreciate lecture from you on electricity.
probaly the best videos so far.
Mmm Yaaah, I'm going to need a cover sheet on that TPS report.
Couldn't resist. Great channel. Thanks.
Have to check spark plug gaps,the plugs are shipped by truck and the plugs move around inside the box which the gap can get crushed.The platnium plugs,don't regap breaking the tip off.I have seen brand new spark plugs with the gaps crushed.
I hear you. More about using and reading a scanner, please.
hey Eric lol! been thru 3 of ur vids so far. find em to be far more informative and entertaining than other similar videos. id say cause ur just as much on an adventure as us viewers haha! lotta self help vids ppl post i feel they just go thru the motions. as if explaining how to ride a bike or something! just wanted to say keep the videos comin! just recently gotta mustang GT with bout 100k mi. so im pretty much workin with exactly the same types of problems. currently fixing/replacing intake manifold... will be my first semi-big project! and itd be cool to bounce ideas/thoughts off ya.
I agree with you saying take a step by step approach, however if this were a customers car wouldn't this be like the third time of taking it to the shop? Not trying to hate, but it does seem like that a little. Again no hate, just, I've been the one who had to take a truck to the shop 5 times before they fixed it. love what you're doing & thanks for the videos.
Thanks man. i just used throttle cleaner to clean my map sensor....
Eyh, don't worry bout it. You do good work! Great vids. Keep'em comin!
I got a good one. guy buys a truck in the summer, works great. then in the winter it wont start when the temp drops below freezing. this went on for 2 years. it went from shop to shop. they would put it in the shop tinker around with it for a bit and it would start, but they never had a reason for it. they changed plugs, fuel filter ect. ect. then it went into one shop that had and older tech. he had heard of this problem before, put it on the hoist and said...
Be careful with electrical cleaner too. It can damage plastic. Make sure it is plastic safe. Get some that is not safe and spray it on a telephone jack and see what happens.
My husband tell me like this, When looking for the problem: I get to play detective (search for problem), mad scientist (I might get to play with some chemicals & code readers as well as other stuff), and Dr. (because once you find a problem you have to fix it)... LOL
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Merrie-Merrie
get a parts store to read the codes. there are over 500 codes to a single vehicle. the codes will narrow it down to the system/ circuit to inspect. Sensors need to be tested. like Eric said it could be in the wiring.
I have the same problem with my subaru, a major part of my hesitation was actually the egr control solenoid valve, it was opening the egr valve while I was accelerating, I took off the vacuum hose and plugged it and the hesitation got a lot better, but there is still some hesitation there. I'm still looking into that.
Ooh man, I absolutely -love- drivability issues, and that's not sarcasm. Nobody in the industry really seems to want to take the time, and it can be so much fun to diagnose all the little things. Ultimately, at the end of the day/week/month/year, when you have it all sorted out, and you have a solid explanation and a working fix? S'better than Christmas, I tell ya! :-D
3:40 They might be stupid but they sure do teach you a lesson...up to replacing the PCM/BCM, I think it fried when I disconnected the MAF once lol
torq bind will blink a code with the atemp light. its the duty c soleniod. its in the tailshaft housing.
Just starting and learning. Why didn't you cover or rule out a fuel injection problem?
My seat Ibiza had the same thing going in a left hand corner at about half throttle every now again. I went to a seat specialist to be told that chances where that the fuel pump inside the tank was most likely yo be the problem. Since it was expensive (to me) i was hesitant to get one, specially as it seemed odd. but it was the pump causing a drop in pressure because it was mechanically rubbing by being flung one way during turns at some acceleration !. Just to show you all one probable cause.
No joke. I had the same issue where my mitsu was running terribly, no vacuum leaks, perfect tune up. Capacitors leaked and caused chaos
Hey Eric, by no means do I plan on stopping watching your video's, but do you know of anyone on youtube that does a similar job to you, except more focused towards diesels? I have learnt unbelievable amounts of knowledge from you, but it would be so helpful if someone focused specifically on diesel.
a loose timming belt is the worst thing i found
the ecu fuel trims closed-in more and more after any ecu reset
had hesitation on a jag from standing starts: done maf clean, throttle body clean, fuel line clean but no change. Months later realised it was a filthy rear wheel speed sensor. zero codes. nhhh
I like this type of vid of u just talking about car and parts
Hy bro you should be an instructor, Thanks for your help, it is really helpful. Keep going with the very useful videos.
you are a good teacher.
I mostly start at the STFT and LTFT, from that point I go forward :)