Say Goodbye to Nintendo Switch JoyCon Drift...Permanently!
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Today, I'm going to show you how to permanently fix your drifting JoyCon. That's right, folks, we're talking about a permanent fix. All thanks to Gulikit’s new replacement joysticks. No more makeshift solutions that only delay the inevitable return to a drifting JoyCon!
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Ok this is most likely the best "let's just jump straight into it" video for joycon drift fix. All the other ones tell it in very specific detail while this one simplifies it very well
I wish this video was more clear with what to be careful with though. From what I've heard online, some of the cables are fragile so you can easily brick the joy-con. If you have spare joy-con, drifting ones aren't limited edition, and don't mind waiting, just send it to nintendo to keep your warranty. It's free.
@walrusairsoft11 I don't know exactly what you are saying but I've heard stories of getting the wrong editions back so unless that has changed, this repair is great. If you mean switch the shell on your designed ones with basic ones and swnding them to nintendo, don't do that. My guess is nintendo figuring out what you did and you might need to pay for repairs that you could have done at home anyway.
nah, this one is too quick and has many quick cuts. a newbie would have to repeatedly pause and rewind
@@kidrobot. Your right, at least it's a great review of the process as a whole to keep viewer retention and encourage people to do repair themselves.
@@kidrobot. I think that's why the guide on the site was mentioned
The frustrating thing is that stick drift and the problem with potentiometer sensors developing drift over time (inevitably as they wear out) has been known for decades. But companies cut corners due to either short sighted cost savings or long term malicious planned failure.
Hall sensors aren't much more expensive, and as shown here, they don't wear out. The only time they develop drift is if they're actually defective or some other part in the device breaks. Yet companies aren't interested in using them because either they want to save pennies per unit or because they want to force their customers to buy more peripherals over time.
i dont know how much it is to licence the hall effect ip/patent, but yeah. the best way to get rid of rubbish controllers that just add on to the environmental plastics, and to actually save money, is to keep spreading the info about hall effect>potentiometers.
scuf controllers are complete rubbish for what they're priced at. they charge all that money and you hear cod streamers drifting within a few months. forget scuf, and all the other scummy controller manufacturers, if they cant even licence a proper joystick tech!
i heard the older dualshock controllers never develop drift, i believe its ps1 and ps2?
@@sawsbone7303 iirc the first console controller to use hall effect sensors were the dreamcast sticks.
@@sawsbone7303Problem with ps2 controllers is substandard cable jackets. Over time they disintegrate and the individual wires for each button short each other out. I have several ps2 Controllers with this problem
"either short sighted cost savings or long term malicious planned failure" who says it's not both?
I give Gulikit props, not only have they sold Switch pro controllers with Hall sensors, but they have been able to recreate Nintendo's very different joysticks with Hall sensors instead, finally fixing the problem. If you ask me, maybe Nintendo should take this as an idea and start buying these joysticks and implementing them in the current joycons of today! but sadly planned obsolescence exists..
Well we don't know how much it would cost to change the joy-cons to use this technology while still meeting quality and mass production criteria. If the next system doesn't use hall effect sticks, then that's where we might have problems.
As much as I hate planned obsolescence as far as I know this comes down to production cost. Basically it would cost more to produce Joycons with this sensor.
@@allstarwoo4 true!
@@allstarwoo4 I think its LESS about the production cost and more about meeting the production demand. I think all 3 major console devs source their sticks from one company casue they are the only one that can make them at that scale.
@@thebravegallade731 it makes sense business wise but I don't have proof to prove either.
I love that the joycons are built in such a way that you never need to solder anything when you need to repair it/replace parts.
That's not just the thing with Joy-Cons, controllers have been built like that for ages... It's much easier and cheaper for manufacturers to assemble pre-soldered parts with ribbon cables and screws than soldering pieces together. Also it's much cheaper to do official repairs when you send stuff in.
@@felemiah actually the modern controller isnt. Really only the n64, and handhelds like the vita had detachable analog sticks. Any normal sized dual stick console controller is going to have it soldered onto the board.
It is good. Because I would guess a lot of joycon failure is due to the units being left facedown on a couch or shoved in a bag uncovered. Or Super Smash Bros...
@@bwgtiTrust me it's not from use. One of my pro controllers was very lightly and nicely used and still got drift. The other one also got drift, was sent in and somehow hasn't gotten it back despite thousands of hours and intensive use. It's just random
@@bwgti As a person who diligently takes care of their electronics, I totally disgaree with your statement. I can imagine your thought process is the same ideology corporate suits spout when laying blame on the consumer instead of facing the idea their product is defective just to maintain/increase profit margins.
I visited a small repair shop recently. They got a huge jar of drifted joystick module right at the entrance to show off their accomplishment. Hilarious that they can collect that many...
haha where is this?
rofl I got a box full of ones from 360, ps3,xb1, and ps4 n switch, and many other controllers there are like 120 in there and I only fix stuff for people as a side job been saving them for years idk why tho I can imagine an actual place people come to all the time getting way more.
I hope they gonna do the same with Xbox and playstation analog joystick too
Yeah, I also want some standalone hal effect joysticks that I can solder in any gamepad...
I think that guli is making hall effect sticks for the dualsense edge controller seeing as you can replace the sticks on those.
The sticks in PS and Xbox controllers are soldered on. Would be a much harder install compared to this.
n64 would benefit from this, typical pot joysticks can't replace the sensitivity its optical sensor had
Those are completely different tbh those have potentiometers in each axis and the mechanism itsel is very much self contained usually bending the potentiometers away to clean the contacts then putting them back is enough but other times is just that the mechanical part itself has wore down and there’s nothing to do
I just replaced my joycon thumb stick with this kit and it worked great! That said, it would be nice if the video showed what the other version of joycons look like on the inside, because I wasn’t expecting an antenna cable to be running across the battery tray / the screws to be located where they were.
Do you mean the other joycons side? Or did they change the design at some point?
@@CGoody5642 they changed the design so that the screws are outside the battery tray and there is an antenna cable running across it.
@@bach315 thanks for the tip. Nice to know what to expect when I crack it open.
It's not an antennae, it's the RFID censor for the amibos, you hold the amibos over the right stick joycon.
The thing is. Why pay 11€ for each joystick when a new Joy-Con is like 30€?
I find it hilarious that Nintendo intentionally developed the switch with potentiometer joysticks thinking they were gonna make bank on their ridiculously expensive replacement joycons, and now they have to fix them for free.
I mean that's not what happened, but sure
In certain areas of a couple of countries
Deranged
@@brandogg have you seen joycon prices lmao. Controllers in general are overpriced. Wouldn't be surprised if Nintendo was hoping to make a quick buck, although I doubt they realized how quickly drift would develop
Nintendo didn't developed potentiometers. All consoles and peripheral manufacturers switched to potentiometers due to fears that hall effect sensors (which uses magnets, magnets can cause interference with wireless communications) would interfere with wireless communications. That's why all analog sticks (please stop calling them joysticks, joysticks are digital) since the launch of the Xbox 360 has used potentiometers.
It looks like hall effect sensors have recently been improved to not interfere with wireless communications.
Now you might be like my 360 or whatever console didn't suffer from drift as much as they do now. Well, the issue is that there is only one major manufacturer of potentiometers, Alps. Your Nintendo, Sony or Microsoft controllers all use Alps potentiometers. Even the Steam Deck uses potentiometers. Alps may be developing their potentiometers to fail faster. And yes drift happens on playstation and Xbox controllers. It was the start of the PS4/Xbone gen when ppl noticed drift happening more. Even though I had many N64 and 360 controllers that failed on me.
It would be nice if you had a link to the GuliKit sticks, or their site in the description along with your own products. But otherwise great video, right to the point. Thanks guys.
Keep in mind that while the magnets are far superior in performance, they can break if the controller is dropped. This happens to custom built GC controllers decently often.
which is mostly human error
Just use the strips to attach your joycons at your wrists and the problem is gone.
Are the hall effect sticks more prone to breaking from falls than the original ones that come with the joy cons?
@@crazywhales9874 yes. The one significant drawback for these is their fragility. While the original Joycon sticks are, obviously, far from perfect, they are fairly impact resistant.
When considering whether or not to replace the sticks, I would recommend weighing whether performance or durability are more important to you. For instance, I would not install the magnets if children have even occasional access to your Joycon, unless you trust them not to drop or strike them.
This is why right to repair is important. If Nintendo were to take notes from Apple, they would make their joy cons use special chips which are not available for purchase by anyone other than Nintendo. If they did that, this swap would've been impossible.
It will be fun to watch all the black markets popping up to counteract predatory companies like Apple. Powerful as their ilk may be, everyday people are still legion.
That would be another lawsuit waiting to happen.
@ apple gets away with it
@ apple did it for years now. You can't replace many parts in newer MacBooks since the chips are not accessible to the public. Even if functionally there's no difference from those that are.
@@Shuroii That's why I never bought a single apple product ever since my ipod starting throwing hissy fits whenever I connected it to my pc almost 20 years ago.
i've had these sticks in my switch for about 3 weeks, I have had 0 issues regarding drift since. Its amazing, I would totally recommend getting them!
Does anyone know if these will also work in the power2a pro controllers?
I just got mine and they don't have drift right out of the box! Very impressed so far!
I mean, three weeks is really not a lot of time to tell if it's drift free or not
Give us another review in another 6 months of hard play. 3 weeks is not a test.
Hello, amiibo works after this?
I've installed 17 sets of these, Gulikit is top notch!
edit: lol he never used that silly mat.
I wonder if I was unlucky not being able to disconnect battery from mobo, was the disconnecting the battery easy for you? For me connector didn't disconnect, plug broke and then even whole socket separated from mobo...
yeah but $75 come on lol
As someone who is not very bright when it comes to technology, I was able to follow this video with ease. Thank you so much!
If you live in Europe, Nintendo started offering everyone free joycon drift repair, even if you don't have warranty. I recently sent in my drifting joycon. It took about 2 weeks for everything to be back with me, but (for now) it works as expected again.
Got a free repair on the JoyCon, but the Pro controller also drifted and the repairs cost more than a new controller.
@Subaru But it is better than dying over and over again.
Been that way a long time now. Hopefully their next console doesn’t have this.
@@ls200076 But so is having a naturally working controller without hoops.
I want a standalone, OEM style joystick pack from Gulikit that I can solder in any gamepad.
I have a first gen Nacon GC-100XF that I love, but the joysticks are completelly destroyed, putting a set of hal effect joystick would be the definitive fix.
I am really excited to try these out for myself. I've spent more money than a new set of joycons on replacement sticks for me and my friends. Here's hoping these are here to stay!
How are the joysticks holding up?
Been using these sticks in my joy-con for several months, and they work great! Very much appreciated the iFixit Joy-Con disassembly documentation to help me install the sticks.
The thing is. Why pay 11€ for each joystick when a new Joy-Con is like 30€?
@@YouSurfin Because with the new joycon you're going to buy a new set after a year. A pair of hall effect stick will last you a long time
@@YouSurfin Because the hall sensor sticks will be kicking like they're brand new 10 years down the line. Meanwhile the standard joy-cons will constantly keep failing and you'll need to replace them several times.
@@snark567 that is simply not true.
@@YouSurfin why do you think so?
i ordered this from you guys, did everything exactly as shown in the video, and my stickdrift was 100x worse then before after doing this. just re installed the old joysticks and i'm glad they work just like before, with just a little stick drift. i'd like to think i got a faulty pair... but this marketing thing seems allot prettier then the reality of it.
don't try it, just get new joycons or knock on nintendo's door
Same. It's a scam.
I just got mine from Amazon and it works perfectly. Some of the reviews I've read have gotten the same issue, but didn't have that issue second time around. My advice is to maybe try buying from Amazon?
Did you calibrate the new sticks?
Something I'd like to add is that when you replace the left thumbstick there's a high chance of shorting a resistor which will cause it to no longer work wirelessly
How do you avoid doing that?
@@KyrEsque I'm not sure I've been trying to figure it out for months
I replaced 6 of these (with non guli sticks) a few months back and had no issues. I didn't know this was a thing so I didn't do anything special.
Not saying you're wrong, but I don't think it's as common as you're making it out to be.
@@SniperX611it's a big problem if it can happen though.
@@SniperX611 I believe you, it's happened to me in the past though. Electro static discharge is probably the reason but I've seen people short the joycon even with a proper setup.
I actually managed to get a very early version of these. It had the weird clicking noise where the stick kinda snaps to a place. Thankfully, they did send me a replacement free of charge and it doesn't quite have the issue anymore. Although, I think the click is still there but only when the stick is fully in one direction. So, it should not be an issue. The gullikit sticks also have way more resistance than the standard joycon sticks. It doesn't quite feel right to me but it does work at least.
I got the early version too, and noticed the same click. I also found them to be very slippery, so much that I decided to swap back to OEM joysticks. Are the rev2 sticks any grippier?
@@nebby3 for me, the stick resistance feels higher than the original joycon sticks. You can compare them side by side. You should feel the gullikit version having more resistance.
I got a revised version two months ago and they have no issues whatsoever. That's why being a early adopter for any technology has its problems.
Is there a way to tell which version I’d be getting? Do I need to worry if I’m ordering from Amazon?
That FixMat looks pretty convenient! When I was using an iFixit kit to repair an iPhone 8, I used an empty ice cube tray to separate the screws/parts
Nifty makeshift screw separator.
Why don’t they link the product in description?
Probably because Nintendo aren’t scared of throwing lawsuits and shutting down channels. Can’t have this video being taken down before people who need it even aware such a thing exists.
Here’s the link you’re welcome
Nintendo is heavily litigious, especially when it comes to CZcams. Which they feel they can flex more on. If iFixit posted this exclusively on their site with a product link, they would wipe their @s$ with any C&D coming their way. In a way, blame CZcams for allowing big megacorps to have their way.
@@damienkearns3654 They deleted it not my fault. Let me try send it again
Why don't you just search for it? You have access to the internet, so use it. You have basically the entirety of human knowledge at your fingertips and you're like "why don't they do it for me?"
I know you guys have done a million repair videos so things are old hat to you, but the average viewer only watches the videos they need. This video could use a little more pacing and details in the steps to follow. The silver phillips screws are of different lengths. The battery connectors pull AWAY from the board, not parallel to their wires. The trigger/battery bracket's flex cable has the contacts facing DOWN to the board. The left joycon should keep the trigger/battery bracket's flex cable connected if at all possible as it is significantly shorter making reassembly hard. And be super gentle around the L and R tack switch buttons, they are held together with a Shinto prayer and can disassemble themselves whenever not cradled in the housing recesses.
Gotta love how easy they make dissassembling that controller like its a cakewalk. A almost 2 hour event for the untrained is summarized in 40 seconds haha. While youre in there, its a good time to do a shell swap too.
Hey, disassembling them is pretty easy... it's the reassembly that takes 2 hours :)
@@duncathan_salt lol ain't that the truth. Not something I look forward to doing right now but I'll use their guide. Be nice to get one of their sets for cheaper than they sell for because $80 is way overpriced for what it is.
Sorry if mentioned but some of the screws for the battery holder piece seem to be different lengths so be careful not to strip. Great video thanks, my stick went in fine and works well after calibration.
unfortunately the materials are pretty poor in these. the plastic around the stick is soft, deforming and breaking much more easily than the OEM sticks
They also don't snap back as quick as the oem ones. They feel a little slow.
Yeah everything I've heard suggests that these do work, but aren't the most comfortable for those used to the original sticks. It does seem like they're gradually making improvements so it might be worth waiting a bit to see if they can get closer before buying.
stick with the cardstock method for now i guess haha
Thing is the screws on the Switch controllers, both JoyCon and Pro, are just insanely tight. I couldn't even open my controllers, which were both drifting, and had to send them to an expensive paid repair - the repair was literally more expensive than the cost of a NEW Pro controller!
Best fix ever, if only we could retrofit removable batteries, expandable storage and headphone jacks to smartphones like that...
we have 4 pairs, 1 with the hall sensors, when people come over for some casual party gaming none like the hall sensor pair. And no we did not tell them about the hall sensor thing, they just don't like the feel of it, even the 3rd party ones got picked before the hall sensor ones
Would appreciate linking the stick kit in the description
After trying everything (blowing air, cleaning with alcohol, inserting a piece of paper inside, etc.), I ordered 2 pairs of Gulikits from AliExpress and just made the repair. My four joy-cons are working perfectly now. I hope it's really permanent or at least that it lasts longer than the original.
I installed these back on February 6. This Friday, April 28, I caught a drift on my left Joycon. Recalibration helped, although was a bit tricky since the center position was off a little too much. So, yeah, this is not a panacea. The build quality is not high enough to prevent drift for reasons other than scraping and dirt buildup.
Just flatout untrue, I don’t believe dirt or grime affects the ability to read how close the stick is to the magnet. If there is an issue it’s because your grimy ass sticks are so dirty, they are straight up forced to lean one direction from buildup. Take your sticks out, not the stick box, and clean them
@@jackcampbell2021 You read my comment wrong. There are multiple reasons the stick might start drifting, Hall effect sensors remove only two of them, namely scraping and dirt. The stick still has mechanical parts that can malfunction, for example, a spring. Since materials used by GulliKit are cheap, there's higher chance for the drift to occur because of that.
Are you sure you did not get gulikit's replacement potentiometer sticks?
@@fsLeg I guess the best option would be to avoid pressing the stick down since that will destroy the cheap parts even quicker
@@zerohero5753There is no room for quality parts. Other companies are coming out with frames with dedicated hall effect sticks.
I bought Gulikit hall sticks for my first pair of joycons and now they’re the best controllers ever!
You're doing the Lord's work, here, my boy!
you should explain how to disconnect the battery/flexcable connectors without breaking them. I find them a bit scarey and have replaced my stucks (with potentiometers in the past) without unplugging the battery at all to avoid breaking the connector.
Obviously a terrible idea but it did work fine
that was the hard part for me, battery connector broke and separated from mobo while trying to reconnect after joycon replacement - I assume that was only case of my specific joycon, I cannot imagine Nintendo making power connector that cannot be disconnected without using magic trics
I'm definitely going to look into these the next time I have drifting issues! Just replaced mine a month ago, so I probably have 5 or 6 months before I'll be needing new joysticks. Thanks nintendo 😒
I bought my Switch last week and was prepared some money for extra Joycon just in case the drift happens to me .. BUT Thanks to this video , I found the GuliKit and immediately swap out the PERFECTLY FINE Joycon Stick with this x'D because why not , I wanna see how durable it actually is
I would certainly keep this in mind for any special edition joycons. I don’t know if there is any truth to this, but I had heard of Nintendo sending out different joycons when finalizing a repair. If you have a set you really like, this might be a better option.
This is true, they sent me back completely different joycons that fixed the drift, but the ones they sent had a faulty right trigger. Not worth!
This is true. If Nintendo is unable to repair the Joy-Con, they will send out a new Joy-Con. However, if the Joy-Con you sent in was a limited edition Joy-Con (TotK, Pokémon, Splatoon, etc.), then a generic Joy-Con will be sent to you.
@@mmasek whoa really? Once I sent my joycons for repair and they said nothing was wrong with them.
also made this repair recently in two sets of Joy-Con, left JC in one pair and right in the other. Works, but too recent to make many conclusions... looking forward to them aging well though!
A bit late, but this is basically what I've been waiting for since i got a switch, just over a year ago.
Said to myself, it's gonna be soon that Gulikit will get a joycon on the market.
Took a bit longer then expected, but I've been using them for about 2 or 3 months now.
They're great!
Don't understand why Nintendo doesn't just do this from the factory, given that the JoyCons are already like €70-80 this should just be default
My stick drift came after around 500 to 1000 hours in with the left Joycon, and the retention holders on the back snapped on both the joycons after a while... I send them in after 5 years of usage to an official Nintendo repair service address. Guess what? It needs a new battery too now! I am talking about the 1st gen Nintendo switch... still going baby!
While the Gulikit joysticks don't drift, they are a little bşt slow to return back to neutral position. It is hard to describe but they don't feel as snappy as normal joycon sticks. Also, theşr rubber is a little bit harder compared to original ones. And one more point, they leave a tiiny bit of a gap on top of the joystick slot but that's all that is wrong with it. You get used to these quick. In my case, I have 2 pairs of joycons so I couldn't get used to it because I switch between them regularly.
the gap issue is fixed (somewhat) with given circular black stickers packed in the packaging
installing them is quite easy, after putting back everything, remove the joystick cap on top (these are replaceable!!), place the sticker in place, and place back the cap
and i'm usually the one to use joystick covers so the different rubber issue doesn't matter much, maybe that's why they give out joystick covers for free in amazon?
@@asutora.5363 ahh, so that's what those stickers were for. I wish I knew where I threw them :(
@@mmert138 you're not alone, lots of people have made the same mistake and got confused about the stickers that gulikit suddenly gave out with 0 instructions
The stickers were also just a stopgap. My understanding is that the latest production run doesn't have a gap at all
@@RocketSlug honestly with the stickers i'd arguably say the tiny detail makes it look nicer than original
I did this swap with my switch lite together with a shell swap. Only thing is that the joystick feel a bit different and have slightly smaller degrees of rotation. Still an amazing fix.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: You do NOT have to take off the battery connector. You can EASILY just move the battery out of that holder over to the side and not mess with the wire / connector. I accidentally got the red wire pulled out and eventually tried to just move the battery and was able to get the joycon switched out without issue. Also, someone told me to take the battery connector out (again, you do NOT have to), you have to move some lock to take it off, which they don't mention in their video. I put the wire back in as best I could and it seems to be working, but man, I wish they said you don't have to take the battery connector off.
it's more of a good practice. You don't want any shorts because some components were unistalled or installed while the system was on by mistake. Sure, unscrewing the battery plastic holder and the stick and operating with the rainbow cable might be a safe procedure in this case but i prefer to not try my luck.
My battery connector broke during disconnect attempt, this repair is much harder than I expected.
@@barabararossa I'm sorry man. If it makes you feel better I had a friend help because I'm no good at tiny things. My left joycon still has a tiny screw jutting out cause I couldn't get it in right.
OMG I‘m gonna get these for sure. I‘ve already fixed two pairs with joycon drift, time to replace the joysticks for good. This looks really easy and doable!
The thing is. Why pay 11€ for each joystick when a new Joy-Con is like 30€?
Thank you so much for the DIY! Just got my fix from Nintendo, free shipping too.
But I gotta say, nothing feals better than a N64 joystick crushing away under your palm, haha.
Worked great and straight to the point, thanks for the tutorial with no added bs! I now have two modded joycons that are performing like new!
The Gulikit ones don’t feel as “snappy” or smooth as the originals but are better than the other cheap replacements I used to use
They do loosen up with a bit of use
One was fairly easy to damage beyond repair with a drop on the floor so in that sense they may not be as durable as OEM
I disagree, mine feel great. They're way smoother than regular joycon sticks.
Be more careful with your belongings and you won't have to worry about that. Mine still feel great and snappy after three months of repetitive play. Maybe you got some defective units?
@@codysouthard Harder than it sounds when you have dogs/kids and it gets knocked off the sofa, if an accident happens it broke way more easily than an OEM stick so they’re not more durable in every sense
Not sure if it varies batch to batch but all 4 of mine are definitely somewhere in between a typical third-party stick and an OEM stick in terms of feel. Definitely 100% happy with them and they’re smooth enough but it’s worth mentioning they just lack a tiny bit of “snap”
@@boydsterling3193 right on I feel you. I did a side by side comparison with OEM sticks from a brand new switch and didn't notice any difference but maybe I'm crazy. I'm definitely happy with them though. I've got a destructive daughter too lol, so I understand. I keep my electronics far away from her though. She has her own but she has a case and I've tried to instill responsibility into her.
Thanks folks! Just swapped mine out today. Great so far!
I don't know how long these kits have been on the market and how much people have tried them over time, so I would keep an eye on it and wait a year or two to see if this is a definitive fix to the drift issue.
It's not new technology. Pretty sure the dream cast used these kinds of joysticks. It's potentiometers that have the drift, pretty much every other controller uses those and gets drift at some point. With these you likely won't, at least in your life time.
They are on the market for like 4 months. They aren't even available long enough to know if the mechanic parts are reliable and so on.
If you buy multiple joycons because each of them kept having drift, may as well try it on a pair.
@@Siosifa sure I totally agree. They will sure be better than the usual replacement sticks. But we don't know if other parts of the stick might fail over time so I don't know if it's worth paying 15 times the price of the cheap replacement for everyone.
Took me like 2 hours finishing both joycons but it worked and I’m happy with it so far.
So not a fix for them, a replacement.
Well... you are not wrong. But they are halleffect so it's permanent
Depends how you look at it
I see it more like an upgrade / mod
it's a replacement that fixes the issue
If you don’t replace crappy standard stick you won’t fix the problem
fun frustrating fact you dont even have a link to where you can purchase them, great job guys
Must've been so hard for Nintendo to pay couple cents more for a permanent solution. Thanks Nintendo 👍
Consider:
Nintendo sold around 125 million Switch units, each having 2 Joycons.
Let's assume the same amount of spare controllers has been made.
That's 500 million units.
Now also let's assume they need to pay 10 cents more for a hall sensor plus magnet.
That's 50 million dollars. Just for changing out one part. Not even in the main console but in the controller.
This doesn't take in account the units made as spares and stock, the extra cost required to incorporate the change into the design and any logistical issues arising because of the chip-shortage in the last years.
@@meierdaniel8549they probably make that off pokemon in a few days
@@meierdaniel8549 You realize they can just adjust the price of the Switch to compensate?
yeah, I change my drift joy con 4 years ago, and it is a miracle that it survives 4 years before it broken again, I just change it again yesterday so I can enjoy my new Tears Of The Kingdom that soon to be released
Can this be fitted to Pro Controllers??? I'm using Pro Con and having same issue (drift), hope Pro Con can be fixed with this as well...
Pro controllers have different stick boxes. You can find replacements online but they need soldering skills.
@@mmert138 Thanks! So, it might be better to buy Gulikit's Pro Controller instead.
@@yutte88 you can try calibrating first. I fixed mine that way. Because if I know right, Gulikit's controller doesn't have nfc reader and hd rumble. Just normal rumble.
@@mmert138 Thanks for another advice! I think I have done calibration few times but didn't change. Since then I have used Pro controller and now that makes drifts as well! Well, I guess I will try another calibration!
0:30 "statistically significant" brought me back to ap stats class
No soldering? How thoughtful of Nintendo. I wonder if they expected these to fail
Yeah I hope it'll be a standard for ps and Xbox to have easier and replaceable way to fix their drift issues.
why would you need to solder for switching the sticks?
The 3ds also doesn't have any soldering done to replace a stick, and on newer smash bros series GameCube controllers the sticks are held in by screws. The design is more entry repair friendly, but durability of soldering sticks in is fine
@@kidrobot. Traditionally, that's required to swap thumbsticks. Most are soldered to the controller's main board
@@salvasaur oh? i apologize. please don't take it personally
It would be nice if somebody could test these out and see if they're still fine after idk 5 years, because the root causes of the issue haven't really been addressed? Sure, the parts inside may not wear down now because it uses magnets. But what about the rest of the stick wearing down? Or dust getting inside?
The right solution would've been to either add a dead zone, or have the stick recalibrate the neutral position each time it was powered on/recalibrated after a full rotation of the stick is made.
I guess that's just the sceptical side of me talking though, I do hope these are a permanent fix
Gulikit Joycon replacements: $27
Tripoint Y00: $6
Phillips #00: $5.50
Spudger: $6.25
Tweezers: $5
iFixit Opening Picks: $5
Total: $54.75 (plus any shipping)
they include tools in the gulikit box
i know someone with 13 drifted joycons. im sure they'll love this
Step 1: Don't buy a Nintendo switch
I want a Gulikit!
How did you unscrew the first set of screws without stripping them?
No one does smug better than ifixit. Keep it up!
Surprised there’s no link in the description to these. I guess google will be my friend because I’m buying some right now.
I might have to give this a try, I've been trying a bunch of different fixes with basically no luck.
For people who keep complaining about companies being cheap they're blaming the wrong companies. There is only one major manufacturer of potentiometers, Alps. Alps Alpine manufactures the potentiometers for Nintendo, Sony, Microsoft and the Steam Deck. Pretty sure 3rd party manufacturers also use Alps.
And there are only 2 different designs; one for full size devices like the Xbox, PlayStation or Nintendo Gamepad Pro controllers. And a smaller design for the joycon, steam deck and other handhelds.
whelp, i know what i am doing once i get paid!
i am so happy these exist now. i have been looking for exactly this for months.
I think i'll wait a couple of updates before getting into these, as I definitely want a future proof joycon, but seeing couple comments about how the current Guli sticks don't react as similarly snappy as og joycon sticks do, i'll hold off for now as my current joycons just got fixed and are good for now
Incredibly helpful explanation of how to replace the JoyCons! Thanks!
I have the gulikit sticks on my steamdeck, they're really good.
Hope Gulikit make joystick for any controllers even older like xbox360 controllers
Glad i found this. I was at the verge of buying a new pair of joycon
sweet! I absolutely love my gulikit controller with the Hall sensors in the sticks (although it has a tiny bit of sometimes perceptible latency) so if this functions at least as well as that I'll be happy to attempt the switch once my current joycons start drifting.
I really would like a longer, deeper dive on how to reconnect everything. Because disconnecting and disassembling are super easy but reconnecting...
I guess $50 CDN is cheaper than $99 for a new set… but that’s got the kit without the tools. Even so, easy fix. Nice!
I'll try to remember this for when I get a switch one day
There's already 2nd player on these sticks. I believe the 8bit ultimate using different brand of hall affect. Would be nice to see what's what
I bought these just in case the new pair of regular sticks would fail upon installation or when they will fail in 1-2 years from now. I guess it was worth the purchase
Been thinking of ordering new sticks to repair my joycon might give these a go
No words on the issues of the Gulikits?
They have a false click input to them sometimes and also there's a little gap between the JoyCon shell and the stick where dust is able to get inside. You can even see it in the video. Hope those issues are addressed soon.
I hope they make these for console controllers for Playstation or Xbox, great vid!
I can't wait for GuliKit to come out with the DualSense Edge modular sticks for my PlayStation 5. I prefer to continue waiting until GuliKit comes out with the modular sticks before buy a new DualSense Edge controller for my PlayStation 5.
Just got back our four joycons from drift repair since its free now. Weighing up whether to just keep getting them repaired in future or whether to get replacement sticks...
Hopefully Nintendo actually fixes this when they release their next system because im sure it would be less expensive to use the new setup rather than fix joy cons for free.
ill jinx myself writing this but drift has never been an isssue for me, my issue is my left joycons just die (probbaly from stress where i hold it one handed)
Definitely getting some and keeping them on stand by till i get drift on my switch
Love the shot at Nintendo at the end
This is good to know... even though I pretty much never use the joycons, so they're basically brand new still. Instead, the best controller I've tried is an 8bitdo Pro 2. The PowerA pro-style controllers are good too, if you don't need analog triggers or motion sensing, so it's what I use for Smash. Digital triggers are actually better for that game. Both of these are cheaper and better than Nintendo's own controllers, though in different ways.
Took my apart further and cleaned the joy stick connection pads (there was no dirt from what I found). Still had drift with one card stacked but going back and doubling up to 2 card layers took care of the drift.
As someone who has personally made my fair share of mods to the Nintendo Switch controllers (shell swap, LED change and Joy stick change) I would not recommend doing this yourself. The process takes a while, and breaking any of the ribbon cables can mean Game Over for the controller. I would recommend this to someone who has some experience, the right tools, including a guild and someone who is not going to lose playability just in case you break them and have to wait on a new part. If you have no idea what you're doing, I would strongly recommend buying a new set of controllers and/or sending your original to Nintendo, as both of these are guarantied to net you working controllers with no risk.
just fixed mine, works perfect, cant believe it
So I watched this video, bought the kit, and it worked perfectly. Then, about a month ago, the stick drift CAME BACK, so I bought a second set, and it came back THE NEXT DAY. So if anyone can help, that would be appreciated
The Battery Reliance issue is also yet to be fixed, And Bets would be that the Switch 2 is also completely Relient on running with a Battery, Even While Docked if the Battery stops working Your Switch doesn't turn on also Nintendo Switch Physical Games and Micro SD Cards use Flash Storage which is a Temporary way to store Don't Digital information,
in other words they won't last long, Both Physical Switch Games and Micro SD cards
you all want to know why hall effect analogs are not standard
because companies want analogs to drift
cause many consumer will just buy new controller
but i have to admit
fact that u dont need to solder to change analogs in switch is very good thing
GOD BLESS THIS!!! ❤🙌
1:02 hall effect, same technology that special mechanical keyboards use with very long lifespan.
The playstation vita back in 2011 had an OLED screen, glass build and hall effect sticks that are still rock solid
Sont really failed the vita huh