My tps is reading 4.5v and doesnt stay on running, found out the tps ground in the computer is fried. I will jump that trace to hopefully fix the problem.
its your O2 sensor harness. happens all the time especially when people put the incorrect harness in the car. burns the computer at pin 46 or they tried to convert from auto to stick and didnt swap the harness
You need to change the 3 Blue colored electrolytic capacitors There the 3 little Can looking Cylinders sticking up Make Sure to use VERY GOOD Quality capacitors and Must be LOW ESR rated and High Temp
really helpful video, was your car acting up one day then would run fine the next because my 95 gt will run like shit one day then it seems like it self heals itself then another day act up again and I'm trying to figure out the issue before i start throwing parts in it. please let me know
+Schrodingers Box I have a 2000 lincoln towncar and i checked the voltage that goes to the tps sensor and its low then i checked the voltage to my map sensor and it was 5 volts like it's supposed to be do you think its my computer or the wires to the sensor i scanned it and it gave me the p0122 code
He may have gotten the code. The self diagnostic check will tell you it is above a 4.5v when there is an issue? Mine said that but it was the pigtail being bad that was messing it all up. New pigtail no more code
this happens when u mix up the hardness with the pcm, pin 46 will burn up inside the pcm, gotta check your o2 loop wire, manual and auto r in different location
Sweet vid. I've been trying to figure out a no start problem on my '95 GT. Hopefully, this vid will help me determine if my PCM is bad before I have to pay $100+ to get it tested. I'm down t guessing the culprit is either the PCM or CCRM.
my 97 jeep GC keeps stilling while driving, the third ecu seems like every two yrs need to replace also have the CarMD scanner tells a green light but still stalling...
hola daniel si hablas español estoy teniendo un problema con mi TPS y estoy midiendo con multimetro y el cable naranja me da 5v y al medir el cable verde me 4.90v , entonces desconecte el sensor y medi el harnes que viene de la ecu y me da el mismo voltaje en los dos cables queria saber si el problema es de la ecu porque si entendi que el cable verde deberia estar sin voltage para recibir el voltaje de la resistencia del tps? mi ecu es una X3Z mustang fox body 1993 cobra
1993 so OBD 1 (all cars before late 1995 have OBD 1). My 1995 mustang gt 5.0 with the OBD 1 computer would stall and i had actually not notice it was the computers fault and i essentially replaced everything else and then the computer got worse one day and my car died but i was able to start the car back after a while and drive home (couldn't go over 3000 RPM or car would die again) The car had a noticeably high idle RPM of 2500-3000 so if you had that problem as well i would like to hear your results. I am upgrading my 1995's computer to OBD II to be safe. you can find replacements pretty often for around 200 dollars or go pick one yourself from a wrecker company and see if it works.
You fixed it in a very hurry mode. There is no testing, no diagnosing, no any fault finding. Just went to the fault straight. There should be some thrill in the video to which people like to watch!
I was wondering if you could help me? I have a 95 gt that won’t start the key is bypassed and it would start when I first got it then it would only start after playing with the ignition and I realized that factory code alarm was removed from under the dash it blew 3 fuses and now the fuel pump won’t prime I don’t know what to do now
i have 95 mustang with the same issue. it gave me no problems for months. i let it sit for a week and now i have no fuel pump control and no ignition control. it appears that i burnt 2 computers trying to diagnose this issue and i don't know where to start looking...all this from sitting for a week😒
PANTYEATR1 I’ve managed to narrow mine down, but I’ve yet to properly fix it. If your having issues with the fuel pump priming I would check the fuel pump cut off switch behind the drivers side tail light. And also check a brown connection plug that’s back there just up the wire about 2.5 ft from the light
@@htxsn9543 that pump cut off is the inertia switch. mine is good. and the weird thing is i swapped computers and it primed and tried to start yesterday, but it died right away and wouldn't prime after that. i presume i just fried this computer too and i don't know where to start looking for the issue. i have been restoring and rotisserie building this mustang for 6 years and it's embarrassing that i have no clue what's going on, when i know everything about this car😔
what does the computer do ..as in what will the car do if bad computer? missfire? engine will not run smooth in auto? gears shift goes of? life it shift into low gear when not needed to? thanks
Bit late but essentially if the computer is faulty the car will run considerably worse featuring stalling and my car actually died as i pulled out into the interstate (FeelsBadMan.jpeg) but essentially all you listed is what can happen. If the computer is dead safest bet would be to go to a wrecker/car graveyard and find an OBD II and just go from there not tinker with it endlessly. Yeah they are expensive but if a computer is dead it is safer to go find one and/or upgrade.
ok what was the problem befor you took out the Computer what was it doing i have a Mustang that will crank but won't start and fuel pump will not start when turn the key was that your problem
the board may be bad but repairing a trace is easy cheap and visually bad, no testing needed. $10 bucks, vs replacement of computer.... money well spent IMO
its your O2 sensor harness. happens all the time especially when people put the incorrect harness in the car. burns the computer at pin 46 or they tried to convert from auto to stick and didnt swap the harness
You need to change the 3 Blue colored electrolytic capacitors There the 3 little Can looking Cylinders sticking up Make Sure to use VERY GOOD Quality capacitors and Must be LOW ESR rated and High Temp
Dan...how do you know that is the fix? I've read about it but haven't had anyone confirm it.
Why don't you show what you did to fix it? If it's determined is a bad ECU, is it better to try to fix it or get a new one?
really helpful video, was your car acting up one day then would run fine the next because my 95 gt will run like shit one day then it seems like it self heals itself then another day act up again and I'm trying to figure out the issue before i start throwing parts in it. please let me know
How is it possible you had 4.5v on a TPS with an open ground???? obviously the computer was not the problem.
+Schrodingers Box I have a 2000 lincoln towncar and i checked the voltage that goes to the tps sensor and its low then i checked the voltage to my map sensor and it was 5 volts like it's supposed to be do you think its my computer or the wires to the sensor i scanned it and it gave me the p0122 code
+Schrodingers Box i'm aski because i know you make good videos
He may have gotten the code. The self diagnostic check will tell you it is above a 4.5v when there is an issue? Mine said that but it was the pigtail being bad that was messing it all up. New pigtail no more code
You never want to component level PCB boards so how would you know you have to work opponent level on surface mount technology and understand first
this happens when u mix up the hardness with the pcm, pin 46 will burn up inside the pcm, gotta check your o2 loop wire, manual and auto r in different location
Thanks for sharing, so was that your problem. Did it work after you had it fixed
Nope it kept blowing the computers , so I just sold it.
@@DanielLopez9111 thank you for getting back to me
Holy shit!! Just opened mine up and bam that exact same spot is fried!! Great helpful video.
Sweet vid. I've been trying to figure out a no start problem on my '95 GT. Hopefully, this vid will help me determine if my PCM is bad before I have to pay $100+ to get it tested. I'm down t guessing the culprit is either the PCM or CCRM.
yea open it up, its worth a look.
Daniel Lopez I pulled mine out for my '95 and it looks nothing like yours.
Like nothing is fried?
lol, no looks nothing like the same pcm
Oh lol
my 97 jeep GC keeps stilling while driving, the third ecu seems like every two yrs need to replace also have the CarMD scanner tells a green light but still stalling...
hola daniel si hablas español estoy teniendo un problema con mi TPS y estoy midiendo con multimetro y el cable naranja me da 5v y al medir el cable verde me 4.90v , entonces desconecte el sensor y medi el harnes que viene de la ecu y me da el mismo voltaje en los dos cables queria saber si el problema es de la ecu porque si entendi que el cable verde deberia estar sin voltage para recibir el voltaje de la resistencia del tps? mi ecu es una X3Z mustang fox body 1993 cobra
Is this OBD 1?? What year is your Mustang?? What did it do?? No idle?? Or very high idle, like 2500 RPM???Thanks=)
1993 so OBD 1 (all cars before late 1995 have OBD 1). My 1995 mustang gt 5.0 with the OBD 1 computer would stall and i had actually not notice it was the computers fault and i essentially replaced everything else and then the computer got worse one day and my car died but i was able to start the car back after a while and drive home (couldn't go over 3000 RPM or car would die again) The car had a noticeably high idle RPM of 2500-3000 so if you had that problem as well i would like to hear your results. I am upgrading my 1995's computer to OBD II to be safe. you can find replacements pretty often for around 200 dollars or go pick one yourself from a wrecker company and see if it works.
How can you upgrade, I need specific instructions as I will be doing the work myself
Geez, use anti static protection!!
How did you get your ecm plug out mine is stuck I've been wiggling for 2 hours
There is a small bolt on the top of the man harness plug
You fixed it in a very hurry mode. There is no testing, no diagnosing, no any fault finding. Just went to the fault straight. There should be some thrill in the video to which people like to watch!
I was wondering if you could help me? I have a 95 gt that won’t start the key is bypassed and it would start when I first got it then it would only start after playing with the ignition and I realized that factory code alarm was removed from under the dash it blew 3 fuses and now the fuel pump won’t prime I don’t know what to do now
It's hard to say. You're going to have to take it to an auto shop with a good electrician.
i have 95 mustang with the same issue. it gave me no problems for months. i let it sit for a week and now i have no fuel pump control and no ignition control. it appears that i burnt 2 computers trying to diagnose this issue and i don't know where to start looking...all this from sitting for a week😒
PANTYEATR1 I’ve managed to narrow mine down, but I’ve yet to properly fix it. If your having issues with the fuel pump priming I would check the fuel pump cut off switch behind the drivers side tail light. And also check a brown connection plug that’s back there just up the wire about 2.5 ft from the light
@@htxsn9543 that pump cut off is the inertia switch. mine is good. and the weird thing is i swapped computers and it primed and tried to start yesterday, but it died right away and wouldn't prime after that. i presume i just fried this computer too and i don't know where to start looking for the issue. i have been restoring and rotisserie building this mustang for 6 years and it's embarrassing that i have no clue what's going on, when i know everything about this car😔
I need to information about part of ecu
what does the computer do ..as in what will the car do if bad computer? missfire? engine will not run smooth in auto? gears shift goes of? life it shift into low gear when not needed to? thanks
Bit late but essentially if the computer is faulty the car will run considerably worse featuring stalling and my car actually died as i pulled out into the interstate (FeelsBadMan.jpeg) but essentially all you listed is what can happen. If the computer is dead safest bet would be to go to a wrecker/car graveyard and find an OBD II and just go from there not tinker with it endlessly. Yeah they are expensive but if a computer is dead it is safer to go find one and/or upgrade.
Shame you didn't show how you took the computer out.
Hello sir
How much current ECU take
Not sure, I don't remember.
Hello sir
30Amper
ok what was the problem befor you took out the Computer what was it doing i have a Mustang that will crank but won't start and fuel pump will not start when turn the key was that your problem
my problem was the TPS sensor was reading a high voltage and would shut off, and just keep frying computers.
hey that's what mins doing...you ever figure it out man?
i have the same problem, if you figured out a fix please tell me
Sorry guys I just gave up on it and sold it. But I would say by a new harness or go carburetor.
Its not even turning over now so idk but thanks
u shouldnt jump a bad board just replace it
why not repair the trace, it will be fine.... chances are the trace burnt up before it did any damage.
the board may be bad but repairing a trace is easy cheap and visually bad, no testing needed. $10 bucks, vs replacement of computer.... money well spent IMO
I have an easier way...if u have a car older than 12 , years old you need a new car
If u don’t have a car older than 12 years old why r u watching this video?