Took my computer to Garry as soon as I saw this video, he took care of my capacitors and helped me diagnose a intermittent no start problem I was having. All on a Sunday in under an hour. Great service great experience. Thanks Garry!
ive been trying to figure out what is going on with mine for a couple of days before I saw this. I definitely had corrosion on 2 of my caps. I cleaned them and reinstalled and same issue but mine is a little different. I plan to follow you in this and install new ones but maybe you can shed some light on my issue as it's a little different. At first, as soon as I would connect the battery, the fuel pump would turn on, found out the there was a toggle switch that was in the "on" position so that explained that.Then, no matter where the switch was the wire to fuel pump was always on and running the pump. spent about 10 hours checking wiring, tracing wires, reading diagrams and diagnosing and come up with the same issue, except the pump maybe grounding out because as soon as I connect pump I get no voltage, as soon as I disconnect ground I get voltage at the relay wire that i can't switch off or on. So it's stays on like a bad ecu and as soon as I connect the pump runs for 2 seconds and fades out and voltage disappears as if it's being grounded out. Vehicle is a 1967 mustang with efi swap, vehicle used to run with this a3m1, I have a old Hickok breakout box I will try to figure out, anyway, any ideas? Sorry for lengthy post! Appreciate any help!
Thanks for the informative video. A few years ago I replaced the 10uf cap which was obviously deteriorated. I left the two 47uf caps in because they both looked OK and passed the ESR test but I will follow your advice and replace them. I recently pulled the PCM out again because of a 'no spark' symptom. I am following the TFI worksheet at TheRangerStation website. I am trying to find pin 56 on the PCM board so I can check the continuity from the TFI socket to the PCM socket because I am getting less than 1 volt at the TFI SPOUT connection. Is there a pinout of F2TF-12A650-PB or similar PCM on the net? I am diagnosing a 1993 E-350 with a 5.8. Thanks in advance for any help that you or anyone else can provide.
I just got a 89 coupe with some work done to the motor bt its deff running rich n fuel pump running all the time. I haven't checked the KOKO to see if I can read the codes or looked at the computer to see if they are corroded yet, but I am goin to still go ahead n purchase the capacitor in case it does or possible is wrong with it. Is there a better kind of capacitor to buy? Or the regular one's fine? I had seen some that was aluminum n they was 8 bucks a piece, n well if it matters then I will get them, but if not I will just order the regular one's. Thanks a million for this video, I haven't checked to see if the relay is bad also for the fuel pump or if some dummy just jumped it over. Like I said I just got this coupe n it look's like someone had it doin it right with the parts that is on it, then some one got a hold of it n didn't know what they was doin. The guy I got it from said a young boy had it before him n he acted like he didn't know a whole lot also. I been doing these car's for 20ty some yrs n this video is the first I have seen about the Ecm, many thanks again!!
my car wasn't starting thought it was the fuel pump relay because it stays running but after watching your video my pcm has two capacitors corroded. please tell me how to send my pcm to you to fix. Thanks
cool. how did you make the test box? That is cool too. My car still has the original ECM in it and runs fine , but from what i see it looks like some day i will have to repair it. I do have a replacement spare for now if needed.
I.m working on a 99 Mazda b4000 I have a no crank and no power to the PCM diode but do have power to the PCM relay also don't have power going to the ignition side of the starter but I think the problem is in the PCM could you tell me if that's possible
My fuel pump never gets the 2-second pulse it just always stay running but if I prime the engine with starter fluid it will run and stay running, But! it won't display codes when a scanner is plugged in or in use of a jumping wire. I'll try my best!!!
Great info, thank you. Do you happen to know what color the check engine light wire(s) are? I've got this 91 motor in a 68 coupe, no light at dash, but would be cool to have it to see if it's lit.
Great video man.Ive got a couple questions though.Im aware of another common problem with the A9L,A9P,etc which is the shorted SigRtn trace on the ecm board.To keep things very simple,can you list all of the symptoms that can occur when the capacitors are bad and when the SigRtn trace is open?? (Example) Bad Capacitors: 1)fuel pump runs continuously 2)check engine light off with koeo 3) " " Signal Return Shorted: 1)scanner fails to trigger a code test 2)codes present for act,ect,evp,bp,tps 3) " " Thanks for any further assistance you can detail about this topic. BTW-did you use the case of a EEC-IV ecm to build your tester and can you let your secret out as to what you used to build it?? Thanks again WBRockstar
sigrtn burnt leaves you unable to dump codes, constant cel light on and running like total crap. the caps leaking from age and burnt traces are about the only issues I've run into but I 've only repaired a few dozen years ago. came across this seeing if anyone made a video after seeing the crazy money these things are selling for now since I'm getting back into an old efi 50 on a 93 I just picked up, went coyote swap along time ago on my other car.
My 8ld in a swap I did won't do a snap test... I get code 11,11 at the end of the koer and can induce codes, even do a cyl. Contribution test, but it never asks for the response test.... And it makes the scan tools hang.... what gives?
What are the functions of the capacitors? Is the 10uf/63v one for a power supply? And the 47uf/16v ones are filters of some sort? Can the computer be tested for functionality outside of the car?
I just had that exact capacitor changed in my ecu well after watching your video i notice my polarity stripe is backwards. Can you tell me which circuit that controls? I have no check eng light with key on, car does run but i want it correct. Thanks
A 91' GT My dad bought new (I was about 3 or 4 years old at the time) finally broke down for the first time after 28 years of a daily driver last summer and it's been sitting ever since, and I think this is what's wrong with it because I've tested and tried it ALL.. Dad saw this and I cracked the ECU open to find Capacitor #1 completely blown out. Hopefully once I find these pesky hard to find Capacitors it'll be it and I can send you some roses and chocolate (Joke). Thank you and I'll keep you guy's posted on weather it worked which I'm sure it will.
Hey man I hope that you can at least respond where would you go to get those old capacitors or whatever they're called The ones that are the micro pherid ferid.... Lol I know I spelled them wrong where would you get those little micro things I don't have a radio shack I'm guessing off the top of my head the closest computer repair shop I know of
Esto com um pcm aqui da ford Explorer ano 2000 que não centelha e nem os injetor não bate ja troquei os sensor de rotação e da sicronizador e não centelha
Thanks for the video. Mine started running the fuel pump KOEO about a year back. I haven't had time to mess with it since it is not my daily. Before that It would erraticly quit with the ect hooked up. And it has been running unhooked for a while. Would a tune (running Quarterhorse) become corrupt out of nowhere? Regardless the eec is coming out as soon as I get home.
Yes, it's possible. The QH uses a coin cell type of battery to keep the tune stored in memory. When that battery dies the tune is lost and you will get the fuel pump run-on condition. Early versions of the QH were shipped with an incorrect resistor that would make the battery die prematurely. The newest versions have the battery in a replaceable socket so you can replace it yourself. Earlier versions had the battery soldered in place and must be sent back to Moates for replacement. Their turn-around is quick and their customer service is excellent. Try reloading your tune with a laptop, if it corrupts after removing power and USB for a couple of minutes then you likely need a new battery.
Very good video, I am actually thinking, I could do this! Where do I buy those 2 different capasitors?? EBay?/ Could this be my problem also?? I have 2004 mustang, 3.8 litre engine on. I get "check fuel cap" light coming on, even I replace cap, NO help, I did change fuelpump bigger,255 lph, since I am planning to add supercharger from Cobra into it (already bought it). I also replaced throttle body bigger, now 70mm, used to be 60 mm?. Now I have high idle really high, like 2500 for awhile, after 20-30 seconds goes down to 1200 RPM, never lower??/ Codes says there is problem with large leak, can't find it and also P0443= problems with purge control valve circuit, P0455 EVAP system large leak, and P0405 Ext. gas recirculation sensor circuit low?? I sure can't find leak, and replaced so far TPS, IAC sensor, EGR, purge solenoid valve, purge valve???/ Could purge solenoid valve be open all the time, and reason being bad PCM/ECU?? Former owner replaced starter, and did bad job, car never started well, and was very difficult to start?? Maybe he shorted something out??? I actually had to replace starter again, couple months ago. Is PCM same in all Mustang?? Or different in 3.8 litre and 5 litre?? Should I take PCM out and check these 3 capasitors?? Thanks a lot, this was a great video, youtheman =) Ps. could you check/measure capasitors someway without taking them out of board, unsolder them?? thanks...
2004 will not have the same type of capacitors that commonly go bad. PCM failures are pretty rare for 96-04 computers. It definitely sounds like you have a big vacuum leak. The best way to find a leak is with a smoke machine.
Hey there...did you ever figure this out?...I have an A9L and there’s no CEL at any time...sure it could be a bulb but I am also unable to pull any code even 11...would think it would have to be throwing something...initially the car ran but had an off idle stumble and at low cruise and would get to bucking like crazy...5sp...tfs 1 cam...would have to really ride the clutch a bit to take off at times...idled somewhat high...surging would be intermittent...tps appears to check out...IAC when disconnected would drop idle which was the only investigation I’d done...went through other things like trying to set base timing and wouldn’t want to stay running with spout removed...also appeared way retard as almost a tooth off to get it to 10*...fresh plugs and cap/rotor...just had the caps replaced from a local electronics shop...still no CEL...actually haven’t started it yet...will have to mess with timing again when I’ve got more time...turned over but no start...please any advice would be wonderful...very disappointed and coming to a bit of a loss as to what route to take at this point...as we have all been at this point where you think it’s gonna fix things only to be let down Thanks in advance...
Hi! Great video!I had this problem and ended up replacing the computer last year and it ran fine until now, did the same thing and replaced the computer only this time it will idle (rough) but as soon as i depress the accelerator pedal or shift into gear the engine bottoms out and most often dies. It ran fine before i replaced the computer leading me to believe that there may be something wrong with the new one. Any suggestions?
If the only thing changed was the PCM and you don't have the fuel pump run-on problem, then look for a burnt trace within an inch of the PCM connector on pin 46.
@@TheEFIguy Hey, I have a 92 foxbody mustang GT. I recently have had a crank but no start issue. I am getting fuel and getting fire but cannot get the mustang to start and run. I even tried ether in the intake and it still doesn't hit. Someone gave me the idea to look at my ecm and sure enough, I have a bad capacitor. You mention in your video that you repair them for a fee plus shipping. Do you still offer that service? My email is mphayes6969@gmail.com if you would like to email me about it. Thanks G Vance.
I have a 90 Mustang GT also and the car has been sitting for a while. It ran perfect before I parked to work on another mess of mine. The check engine light will lightly flickers with or without jumping to check for codes. The pump does run as described in your video, please advise if you think the ecm needs repair, thanks
You still offering this service? I have this exact same problem. Be trying to find the problem for a minute now. I was idling and the car randomly just died. Wont start but cranks. I have fuel pressure, spark, and power to injectors, car starts on starter fluid. But no injector pulse and fuel pump stays on continuously. I found one of my capacitors has green fuzz pooled around the connection.
TheRASAchannel Path MoreLand Mine is doing the same thing. Just installed new fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel relay under seat. Car cranks but I don't hear the fuel pump prime. Just took my computer out and looks tore up and sticky on the board. Any help would be helpful
my ecm looks like new inside so ya you more then likely need a new ecm/computer luckily they are not that much. I can't get my ecm back up in that tight spot. LOL I unfortunately did not check the pump before putting the new tank and sender and pump back in...... ughhhh so now I need to drop the tank again. which is not easy by yourself. Well drop is ok putting it back is is kinda tricky. LOL
I have an 89 fox body 2.3 lx and the pink and white wire on my ignition control module that only gets power when you hold the key over to start the engine is getting back fed power from somewhere as soon as I turn the switch on the car starts all by itself could this be a sign of a bad computer the wire is getting back fed power somewhere as far as I can tell it’s from the ecm have got to test at the ecm to be sure but anyway you could help me figure this out I’d be grateful been messing with it for months I discovered that there’s an 8 pin connector in the driver kick panel that the white with pink wire goes to and then goes under the carpet when I disconnected that plug it stopped sending power to the white with pink wire on the switch I can’t find a diagram for these connectors at all thanks for any help
decidedisciple67 I didn’t find and fix the the problem it just went away but traced everything I put a power probe wire tracer on it and followed it all the way to a switch on the transmission on the driver side wiggled those wires and it went away I knew the wires were spliced back on it but never thought something like that would cause it to act the way it was
decidedisciple67 I appreciate the help buddy this one stumped me bc I never suspected a switch like that could cause it I’m still skeptical that was the problem but till it acts up again just kinda hurry up and weight lol
I've only done a handful of them myself but I ordered all the capacitors I've used from Mouser. I got Panasonic branded ones but I know they have alot of diff options. You'll need two 47uF 50v & one 10uF 63v. you can go higher on the voltage if exacts aren't available but have to stick with the same farad rating
Hey EFI Guy. What do each of these capacitors protect? The same exact one that was bad on your video is bad on my car. I have the skills to fix it but just really curious as to what they are protecting. I have searched the internet to no avail. Please let me know if you happen to know.
I don't know for sure. I'm not an electrical engineer or anything like that, I'm just a full-time mechanic and a part-time Ford tuner. I started repairing these things out of necessity. It seems every time I crack one of these open to install a tuning device I encounter the bad caps. So, repairing them is not my specialty, but I can repair the obvious bad caps, burnt traces, broken solder joints, etc...I'm just not an expert in diagnosing them.
They don't "protect" anything. In all three cases, these are installed as bypass capacitors which filter out electrical noise from the dc converters (which change the 12V input voltage to other voltages the PCM needs - such as 5V or 3.3V for instance). If the caps are bad, the output of the dc converters will drop and there will be a big increase in "noise" off the converters. The lower voltage and increase in noise affects the active ICs.
Just old parts I had laying around. There is a relay inside wired just like the fuel pump relay would be, that powers the the F/P light. The other lights are powered from the switch.
Are u still around I tried ur email seems to not work I need help changed capacitors still fuel pump stays priming would like to test computer pay u in advance
@@TheEFIguy I got a 95 Town Car with a 2004 Interceptor that likes to randomly surge idle only in gear. Once you got to park, its fine. The original PCM was doing it all the time no matter what gear/park it was in. Replacing the PCM has helped a lot, but hasn't fixed the issue. I'm leaning towards the driver for the IAC. Any clue how to replace them and or where I can get a schematic for this PCM? Appreciate any feedback.
I jus took mine apart outa my cobra the same capacitors are bad I'd like to get mine fixed a reman is 400 to 500 i don't have tht right now the code is x3z could you send me some shipping info
Lance Emerson please call me I am interested in your service I have a 2001 Ford mustang and the antitheft light is flashing and Ford told me that the PCM needs to be replaced if you can help me call me please I need your help and your service thanks 407-285-6293 Rocky
Wow found my comment from 2 years ago and noticed I've watched this before.. Update?: Well I replaced the bad capacitors and it well.. it didn't work. One of my main issues is that the flywheel got stripped right before the car stopped working and I cannot get a mechanic to replace the flywheel and clutch because the car won't start but I cannot try to test why the car won't start because i cannot turn the car over (Can only try to bump start). I'm afraid to spend the $20 to have the ECU tested because I'm sure they'll tell me it needs repaired and charge me the $230 for it to be rebuilt. The car gives me code when I jump the test lead, I have check engine light and the fuel pump shuts off so i'm at a lose here and the car has been setting for 3 years now which is shame because it turns 30 years old next month, and I don't want it to be dead on it's 30th birthday. It's almost like I'm not getting fuel or something, and I remember we tested for spark and had it. If at all you see this please let me know cause i would love to pay you to test this ECU out for me, and if my repair wasn't efficient enough than I'll pay you to repair it. This car has been with me since I was 3 years old and it's like a family member now that's been with me and my dad for 30 years.. So needless to say I'm desperate to get this car running again. Thank you for your time. -Dave Edit: I didn't realize you put your contact info at the end my apologies. I'll contact you there.
Took my computer to Garry as soon as I saw this video, he took care of my capacitors and helped me diagnose a intermittent no start problem I was having. All on a Sunday in under an hour. Great service great experience. Thanks Garry!
what was causing your intermittent no start?
Very nice video. I appreciate the time you took and the sharing of your experiences and knowledge!
i lack the ability to express how much im loving you right now...i would buy you all the beers if i could
🤣🤟
Thank you for awsome speedy service. After the fix I plugged it in and the car turned right on.... thanks a million
Wow awesome video. Very in depth I appreciate what you've done for us I'm going to be doing this as a precaution just bought my first mustang
Nice video. Good job with the testing mechanism
That is a great setup. Nice work
Great video!. Lots of great information. I sent an email to inquire about having you fix my ECM
ive been trying to figure out what is going on with mine for a couple of days before I saw this. I definitely had corrosion on 2 of my caps. I cleaned them and reinstalled and same issue but mine is a little different. I plan to follow you in this and install new ones but maybe you can shed some light on my issue as it's a little different. At first, as soon as I would connect the battery, the fuel pump would turn on, found out the there was a toggle switch that was in the "on" position so that explained that.Then, no matter where the switch was the wire to fuel pump was always on and running the pump. spent about 10 hours checking wiring, tracing wires, reading diagrams and diagnosing and come up with the same issue, except the pump maybe grounding out because as soon as I connect pump I get no voltage, as soon as I disconnect ground I get voltage at the relay wire that i can't switch off or on. So it's stays on like a bad ecu and as soon as I connect the pump runs for 2 seconds and fades out and voltage disappears as if it's being grounded out. Vehicle is a 1967 mustang with efi swap, vehicle used to run with this a3m1, I have a old Hickok breakout box I will try to figure out, anyway, any ideas? Sorry for lengthy post! Appreciate any help!
Great Video and Explanation!
very helpfull video .. have exactly this this proplem with the capacitors
You still repairing computers?
I'm also interested
Thanks for the informative video. A few years ago I replaced the 10uf cap which was obviously deteriorated. I left the two 47uf caps in because they both looked OK and passed the ESR test but I will follow your advice and replace them. I recently pulled the PCM out again because of a 'no spark' symptom. I am following the TFI worksheet at TheRangerStation website. I am trying to find pin 56 on the PCM board so I can check the continuity from the TFI socket to the PCM socket because I am getting less than 1 volt at the TFI SPOUT connection. Is there a pinout of F2TF-12A650-PB or similar PCM on the net? I am diagnosing a 1993 E-350 with a 5.8. Thanks in advance for any help that you or anyone else can provide.
I was the 1K subscriber grate vid
I just got a 89 coupe with some work done to the motor bt its deff running rich n fuel pump running all the time. I haven't checked the KOKO to see if I can read the codes or looked at the computer to see if they are corroded yet, but I am goin to still go ahead n purchase the capacitor in case it does or possible is wrong with it. Is there a better kind of capacitor to buy? Or the regular one's fine? I had seen some that was aluminum n they was 8 bucks a piece, n well if it matters then I will get them, but if not I will just order the regular one's. Thanks a million for this video, I haven't checked to see if the relay is bad also for the fuel pump or if some dummy just jumped it over. Like I said I just got this coupe n it look's like someone had it doin it right with the parts that is on it, then some one got a hold of it n didn't know what they was doin. The guy I got it from said a young boy had it before him n he acted like he didn't know a whole lot also. I been doing these car's for 20ty some yrs n this video is the first I have seen about the Ecm, many thanks again!!
What about applying heat sink compound to the case and the injector driver heatsinks/where the case attaches?
my car wasn't starting thought it was the fuel pump relay because it stays running but after watching your video my pcm has two capacitors corroded. please tell me how to send my pcm to you to fix. Thanks
Any links for what capacitors you are buying? Mouser and Digikey have many choices and I want to get the best cap's to fix one for my brother.
After you are done, should you add some kind of coding on board, like liquid tape kind of spray?? or nothing?/ Thanks
cool. how did you make the test box? That is cool too. My car still has the original ECM in it and runs fine , but from what i see it looks like some day i will have to repair it. I do have a replacement spare for now if needed.
Can an ecm issue cause a surging idle and stall issues?
For the upgraded caps what is the voltage the you use?
What name brand capacitors are you using? Or does it matter as long as it has the proper uf and voltage
I.m working on a 99 Mazda b4000 I have a no crank and no power to the PCM diode but do have power to the PCM relay also don't have power going to the ignition side of the starter but I think the problem is in the PCM could you tell me if that's possible
My fuel pump never gets the 2-second pulse it just always stay running but if I prime the engine with starter fluid it will run and stay running, But! it won't display codes when a scanner is plugged in or in use of a jumping wire. I'll try my best!!!
I have a 1997 ford ranger and I don’t see any competitors in ti like yours do you no what else might be wrong with the ecu
Nice work
Great info, thank you. Do you happen to know what color the check engine light wire(s) are? I've got this 91 motor in a 68 coupe, no light at dash, but would be cool to have it to see if it's lit.
You would prob have to get a schematic online n run a check light to the ecm probally. If you still have, I just seen this was 2 yrs ago.
Great video man.Ive got a couple questions though.Im aware of another common problem with the A9L,A9P,etc which is the shorted SigRtn trace on the ecm board.To keep things very simple,can you list all of the symptoms that can occur when the capacitors are bad and when the SigRtn trace is open??
(Example)
Bad Capacitors:
1)fuel pump runs continuously
2)check engine light off with koeo
3) " "
Signal Return Shorted:
1)scanner fails to trigger a code test
2)codes present for act,ect,evp,bp,tps
3) " "
Thanks for any further assistance you can detail about this topic.
BTW-did you use the case of a EEC-IV ecm to build your tester and can you let your secret out as to what you used to build it??
Thanks again
WBRockstar
sigrtn burnt leaves you unable to dump codes, constant cel light on and running like total crap. the caps leaking from age and burnt traces are about the only issues I've run into but I 've only repaired a few dozen years ago. came across this seeing if anyone made a video after seeing the crazy money these things are selling for now since I'm getting back into an old efi 50 on a 93 I just picked up, went coyote swap along time ago on my other car.
My 8ld in a swap I did won't do a snap test... I get code 11,11 at the end of the koer and can induce codes, even do a cyl. Contribution test, but it never asks for the response test.... And it makes the scan tools hang.... what gives?
How did you make that sweet test box?
Will you accept computers for repair?
What are the functions of the capacitors? Is the 10uf/63v one for a power supply? And the 47uf/16v ones are filters of some sort?
Can the computer be tested for functionality outside of the car?
Good video great video but I don't think people will go and build a power supply like that to power the modules to check it
how much for you diagram tester?for I do it one for me
That same cap is corroded on mine. What are the 3 capacitor goes to does anyone know???
If one of these compactor s is bad would it cause a car to run lean?
I just had that exact capacitor changed in my ecu well after watching your video i notice my polarity stripe is backwards. Can you tell me which circuit that controls? I have no check eng light with key on, car does run but i want it correct. Thanks
How did you make the test box?
Can you fix a 2006 mustang gt pcm?
A 91' GT My dad bought new (I was about 3 or 4 years old at the time) finally broke down for the first time after 28 years of a daily driver last summer and it's been sitting ever since, and I think this is what's wrong with it because I've tested and tried it ALL.. Dad saw this and I cracked the ECU open to find Capacitor #1 completely blown out. Hopefully once I find these pesky hard to find Capacitors it'll be it and I can send you some roses and chocolate (Joke).
Thank you and I'll keep you guy's posted on weather it worked which I'm sure it will.
Can you send these out to be repaired? My car was sitting for years and half the case is falling apart and corroded.
I cant get the back off of the box how do you do that
Hey man I hope that you can at least respond where would you go to get those old capacitors or whatever they're called The ones that are the micro pherid ferid.... Lol I know I spelled them wrong where would you get those little micro things I don't have a radio shack I'm guessing off the top of my head the closest computer repair shop I know of
Esto com um pcm aqui da ford Explorer ano 2000 que não centelha e nem os injetor não bate ja troquei os sensor de rotação e da sicronizador e não centelha
what about a speed density computer
Why did you put the capacitor up so high and you didn't push it down
Thanks for the video. Mine started running the fuel pump KOEO about a year back. I haven't had time to mess with it since it is not my daily. Before that It would erraticly quit with the ect hooked up. And it has been running unhooked for a while. Would a tune (running Quarterhorse) become corrupt out of nowhere? Regardless the eec is coming out as soon as I get home.
Yes, it's possible. The QH uses a coin cell type of battery to keep the tune stored in memory. When that battery dies the tune is lost and you will get the fuel pump run-on condition. Early versions of the QH were shipped with an incorrect resistor that would make the battery die prematurely. The newest versions have the battery in a replaceable socket so you can replace it yourself. Earlier versions had the battery soldered in place and must be sent back to Moates for replacement. Their turn-around is quick and their customer service is excellent. Try reloading your tune with a laptop, if it corrupts after removing power and USB for a couple of minutes then you likely need a new battery.
Ok Ill try that. It has been in there since 2012.
2012 is right around the time frame of the bad batch of resistors.
On the Quarter Horse? Details
Yes. The bad batch of resistors caused the QH battery to drain faster. I'm pretty sure it was in 2012 when they shipped.
Can you do me a favor and fix mine i feel very confident you will do a great job
Do you need a computer for the car to start?
Very good video, I am actually thinking, I could do this! Where do I buy those 2 different capasitors?? EBay?/ Could this be my problem also?? I have 2004 mustang, 3.8 litre engine on. I get "check fuel cap" light coming on, even I replace cap, NO help, I did change fuelpump bigger,255 lph, since I am planning to add supercharger from Cobra into it (already bought it). I also replaced throttle body bigger, now 70mm, used to be 60 mm?. Now I have high idle really high, like 2500 for awhile, after 20-30 seconds goes down to 1200 RPM, never lower??/ Codes says there is problem with large leak, can't find it and also P0443= problems with purge control valve circuit, P0455 EVAP system large leak, and P0405 Ext. gas recirculation sensor circuit low?? I sure can't find leak, and replaced so far TPS, IAC sensor, EGR, purge solenoid valve, purge valve???/ Could purge solenoid valve be open all the time, and reason being bad PCM/ECU?? Former owner replaced starter, and did bad job, car never started well, and was very difficult to start?? Maybe he shorted something out??? I actually had to replace starter again, couple months ago. Is PCM same in all Mustang?? Or different in 3.8 litre and 5 litre?? Should I take PCM out and check these 3 capasitors?? Thanks a lot, this was a great video, youtheman =) Ps. could you check/measure capasitors someway without taking them out of board, unsolder them?? thanks...
2004 will not have the same type of capacitors that commonly go bad. PCM failures are pretty rare for 96-04 computers. It definitely sounds like you have a big vacuum leak. The best way to find a leak is with a smoke machine.
OK=) Thanks=), but high idle and P0443 seem to tell that PCM bad??
So, what usually goes bad in 2004/ OBD2 computers??? Different kind on capacitors??? How do you test them?? Thanks=)
Can you tell me what kind capacitors newer Mustang 2004 OBD2 PCM has?? Where can i order those and how to check which one are bad??? Thanks a lot=)
I replaced the 3 capacitors and still have the continuous pump run and no injector pulse. What next?
Hi, i have a A9T computer that doesn't light up the check engine light is it broken or it can be fixed the same way??
Thanks for your time
Hey there...did you ever figure this out?...I have an A9L and there’s no CEL at any time...sure it could be a bulb but I am also unable to pull any code even 11...would think it would have to be throwing something...initially the car ran but had an off idle stumble and at low cruise and would get to bucking like crazy...5sp...tfs 1 cam...would have to really ride the clutch a bit to take off at times...idled somewhat high...surging would be intermittent...tps appears to check out...IAC when disconnected would drop idle which was the only investigation I’d done...went through other things like trying to set base timing and wouldn’t want to stay running with spout removed...also appeared way retard as almost a tooth off to get it to 10*...fresh plugs and cap/rotor...just had the caps replaced from a local electronics shop...still no CEL...actually haven’t started it yet...will have to mess with timing again when I’ve got more time...turned over but no start...please any advice would be wonderful...very disappointed and coming to a bit of a loss as to what route to take at this point...as we have all been at this point where you think it’s gonna fix things only to be let down
Thanks in advance...
Hi! Great video!I had this problem and ended up replacing the computer last year and it ran fine until now, did the same thing and replaced the computer only this time it will idle (rough) but as soon as i depress the accelerator pedal or shift into gear the engine bottoms out and most often dies. It ran fine before i replaced the computer leading me to believe that there may be something wrong with the new one. Any suggestions?
If the only thing changed was the PCM and you don't have the fuel pump run-on problem, then look for a burnt trace within an inch of the PCM connector on pin 46.
@@TheEFIguy Hey, I have a 92 foxbody mustang GT. I recently have had a crank but no start issue. I am getting fuel and getting fire but cannot get the mustang to start and run. I even tried ether in the intake and it still doesn't hit. Someone gave me the idea to look at my ecm and sure enough, I have a bad capacitor. You mention in your video that you repair them for a fee plus shipping. Do you still offer that service? My email is mphayes6969@gmail.com if you would like to email me about it. Thanks G Vance.
Do you have an email to contact you? Wondering how to get a PCM tester
I have a 90 Mustang GT also and the car has been sitting for a while. It ran perfect before I parked to work on another mess of mine. The check engine light will lightly flickers with or without jumping to check for codes. The pump does run as described in your video, please advise if you think the ecm needs repair, thanks
It sure sounds like it. I'd crack it open and give it a look.
Yes, the capacitor is leaking as you suggested, can you refer me to a seller for these?
Radio Shack, Digi-Key, Mouser.
You still offering this service?
I have this exact same problem. Be trying to find the problem for a minute now. I was idling and the car randomly just died. Wont start but cranks. I have fuel pressure, spark, and power to injectors, car starts on starter fluid. But no injector pulse and fuel pump stays on continuously.
I found one of my capacitors has green fuzz pooled around the connection.
Eric Larsen I have the exact same symptoms glad I’m not the only one. My capacitors are bad as well.
Can this also cause the o posite? Fuel pump not priming? Changed pump and relay under seat 12v at the trunk cut off switch. Still not priming?
TheRASAchannel Path MoreLand Mine is doing the same thing. Just installed new fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel relay under seat. Car cranks but I don't hear the fuel pump prime. Just took my computer out and looks tore up and sticky on the board. Any help would be helpful
my ecm looks like new inside so ya you more then likely need a new ecm/computer luckily they are not that much. I can't get my ecm back up in that tight spot. LOL I unfortunately did not check the pump before putting the new tank and sender and pump back in...... ughhhh so now I need to drop the tank again. which is not easy by yourself. Well drop is ok putting it back is is kinda tricky. LOL
mine will crank with starting fluid so I am getting spark. if you have a multi meter check for ground at the injectors
I have an 89 fox body 2.3 lx and the pink and white wire on my ignition control module that only gets power when you hold the key over to start the engine is getting back fed power from somewhere as soon as I turn the switch on the car starts all by itself could this be a sign of a bad computer the wire is getting back fed power somewhere as far as I can tell it’s from the ecm have got to test at the ecm to be sure but anyway you could help me figure this out I’d be grateful been messing with it for months I discovered that there’s an 8 pin connector in the driver kick panel that the white with pink wire goes to and then goes under the carpet when I disconnected that plug it stopped sending power to the white with pink wire on the switch I can’t find a diagram for these connectors at all thanks for any help
decidedisciple67 I didn’t find and fix the the problem it just went away but traced everything I put a power probe wire tracer on it and followed it all the way to a switch on the transmission on the driver side wiggled those wires and it went away I knew the wires were spliced back on it but never thought something like that would cause it to act the way it was
decidedisciple67 I appreciate the help buddy this one stumped me bc I never suspected a switch like that could cause it I’m still skeptical that was the problem but till it acts up again just kinda hurry up and weight lol
Can I send mine to you to fix?
Do you know if the DA1 Speed Density Mustang ECU only has 2 compacitors, opposed to the three that are usually on the boards?
Bruh I’m a straight beast I fix anything
@@sweetassugar2076 so answer the question, "beast"
J PP no how many?
@@sweetassugar2076 I don't know "beast", read the last response
J PP let me go into beast mode I’ll figure it out ! Straight beast !!
Would you repair my ECU? And if so, How can i connect with you?
Hi Are you still fixing ECUs
Where do I go to find these computer parts In this video I want to order these for mine and give it a try cause I have all 3 leaking
I've only done a handful of them myself but I ordered all the capacitors I've used from Mouser. I got Panasonic branded ones but I know they have alot of diff options. You'll need two 47uF 50v & one 10uF 63v. you can go higher on the voltage if exacts aren't available but have to stick with the same farad rating
Hey EFI Guy. What do each of these capacitors protect? The same exact one that was bad on your video is bad on my car. I have the skills to fix it but just really curious as to what they are protecting. I have searched the internet to no avail. Please let me know if you happen to know.
I don't know for sure. I'm not an electrical engineer or anything like that, I'm just a full-time mechanic and a part-time Ford tuner. I started repairing these things out of necessity. It seems every time I crack one of these open to install a tuning device I encounter the bad caps. So, repairing them is not my specialty, but I can repair the obvious bad caps, burnt traces, broken solder joints, etc...I'm just not an expert in diagnosing them.
They don't "protect" anything. In all three cases, these are installed as bypass capacitors which filter out electrical noise from the dc converters (which change the 12V input voltage to other voltages the PCM needs - such as 5V or 3.3V for instance). If the caps are bad, the output of the dc converters will drop and there will be a big increase in "noise" off the converters. The lower voltage and increase in noise affects the active ICs.
Can you repair my A9M ecu for a 92 convertible LX 5.0 5 speed
Brandon Knight I can get Them as many as I want for $299 I just want one cheaper
How do i get in contact with you to send my computer out to you
Hello sir, how can I get in contact with you? I would like to send my pcm to get serviced. Thank you in advance!
Does anyone know if he still offers these services? I need mine fixed.
Yes, I do. You can find my e-mail at the end of the video.
how much to fix a 1992 5.0 5 speed no fuel pump signal to relay
End of the video says $35 dlls + shipping
How did you build the test machine that acts as the car? Thanks!
Just old parts I had laying around. There is a relay inside wired just like the fuel pump relay would be, that powers the the F/P light. The other lights are powered from the switch.
@@TheEFIguy I'd like a schematic if you have one available
Can I send mine to you for you to fix?
Well how do I get ahold of you to send you my ecu I’ll give you $60
R.I.P. RadioShack
Hello, do you still do these repairs?
Yes, my email is at the end of the video.
May you fix mine please😭
Are u still around I tried ur email seems to not work I need help changed capacitors still fuel pump stays priming would like to test computer pay u in advance
how about transistors, my 92 explorer ecm blew the bank 1 injector pulse. do you repair these ecm's too
How much do you charge to fix a pcm?
he said $35 at the end of the video
Where did you buy the capacitors?
Kinshun Mui im sure you can get them at radio shack
I need this done to my a9p
EFI Guy, hey you still around offering ECM repair?
I wanna know this too
Can I send my ecm to you?
Yes. My email is at the end of the video.
@@TheEFIguy I got a 95 Town Car with a 2004 Interceptor that likes to randomly surge idle only in gear. Once you got to park, its fine. The original PCM was doing it all the time no matter what gear/park it was in. Replacing the PCM has helped a lot, but hasn't fixed the issue. I'm leaning towards the driver for the IAC. Any clue how to replace them and or where I can get a schematic for this PCM? Appreciate any feedback.
I jus took mine apart outa my cobra the same capacitors are bad I'd like to get mine fixed a reman is 400 to 500 i don't have tht right now the code is x3z could you send me some shipping info
Can i get a phone number to contact you about getting my ecu checked ??
Still taking orders? May 2019...
great to know, if you are
Best bet is to send a email and wait for a respond, provides email address at then end of the video
Lance Emerson please call me I am interested in your service I have a 2001 Ford mustang and the antitheft light is flashing and Ford told me that the PCM needs to be replaced if you can help me call me please I need your help and your service thanks 407-285-6293 Rocky
And if you’re still taking orders I will send it and pay you your fee thanks a lot
Can you give me your address and what is usually the turn around time?
My car will not advanced or retard timing. Im pretty sure its the computer. Any advice??? Thanks. 93gt
How can I get ahold of you to get you my ecu my email address is ??
Potatoe phone lol
My name is Jackson and we live in Jordan dummy Gabriel if you’re watching his Molly, knowing Grayson Xander Exeter, Xander Xander zandr
#Copy
Wow found my comment from 2 years ago and noticed I've watched this before..
Update?: Well I replaced the bad capacitors and it well.. it didn't work. One of my main issues is that the flywheel got stripped right before the car stopped working and I cannot get a mechanic to replace the flywheel and clutch because the car won't start but I cannot try to test why the car won't start because i cannot turn the car over (Can only try to bump start). I'm afraid to spend the $20 to have the ECU tested because I'm sure they'll tell me it needs repaired and charge me the $230 for it to be rebuilt. The car gives me code when I jump the test lead, I have check engine light and the fuel pump shuts off so i'm at a lose here and the car has been setting for 3 years now which is shame because it turns 30 years old next month, and I don't want it to be dead on it's 30th birthday.
It's almost like I'm not getting fuel or something, and I remember we tested for spark and had it.
If at all you see this please let me know cause i would love to pay you to test this ECU out for me, and if my repair wasn't efficient enough than I'll pay you to repair it. This car has been with me since I was 3 years old and it's like a family member now that's been with me and my dad for 30 years.. So needless to say I'm desperate to get this car running again.
Thank you for your time.
-Dave
Edit: I didn't realize you put your contact info at the end my apologies. I'll contact you there.