2018+ Jeep Wrangler Stereo Upgrade - Updated June 2021
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- How to upgrade the stereo in 2018+ Jeep Wrangler JL updated for 2021 with new products and solutions. Car Stereo Chick explains what parts she recommends and what her shop uses to upgrade the sound system in 2018 and up Jeep Wranglers. As a Wrangler JL owner herself, with 20+ years in the industry, she knows what it takes to make these vehicles sound great while maintaining the original fit, finish and functions of the vehicle.
Local to Brookfield, CT? Come visit our shop. Set up a consultation to listen to one of our Jeeps (2019 Wrangler MOAB and 2014 JK 2-door) and see what we can do for your Jeep!
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**** PRODUCTS USED ****
PAC Audio AP4-CH41R2 - amzn.to/3iZlvRH
Alpine PDX-V9 - www.alpine-usa...
Power Bass 2XL-63C (2 sets) - amzn.to/35EXM1t
Metra JP-1014 - amzn.to/2SkYkXc
SSV Works JJT-SA065 - www.ssvworks.c...
JL Audio 94667 - www.jlaudio.co...
JL Audio 99837 - www.jlaudio.co...
Stinger SK4241 - stingerelectro...
Stinger XI112 (3 sets) - stingerelectro...
NOTE: If you have a Jeep with the Premium Alpine System, you will need the following OEM panels to remove the stock subwoofer and put the JL 94667 in its place:
6BM30TX7AF (Quarter Panel)
6BM34TX7AB (Bezel)
6SQ60TX7AA (Carpet)
Disclaimer - this video is for education and entertainment purposes only. Any expressed opinions contained in this video are solely of its author. Car Stereo Chick is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. Links contained in the video description and/or on her website earn her an affiliate commission if you click through the link and finalize a purchase. Annie Amen, John Amen, Car Stereo Chick, Sounds Incredible Mobile LLC, its members, partners, officers and employees assumes no liability for injury, damage to property or loss incurred as a result of information contained or inferred from this video. Use this information at your own risk. Viewers are advised to follow all applicable laws, equipment instructions and to operate all tools according to the manufacturers’ instructions. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user.
I used a hot knife plastic cutter for a super clean cut when gutting the soundbar in my JL.
great video again! Annie had some of the most informative posts of the Jeep forums after the JL was released regarding audio upgrades in the new Jeeps. The metra pods and SSV speaker adapters have turned out to be the defacto choice in installing quality 6" seperates in the soundbar and up front.... Select Instruments has come out with soundbar pods that requires no cutting/modification to factory equip BUT can not accommodate higher-end speakers like Focal or Morel with larger magnets therefore limiting your sound quality options..... anyone worried about cutting up their soundbar and concerned about switching back to factory speakers when selling or trading in your Jeep can find OEM soundbars all day long on ebay for $70.... still hoping JL Audio or someone comes up with a quality subwoofer solution for the 2Drs
Thank you so much!!! Great point about the Select Increments pods. I love that company and use a lot of their products, but that is definitely a limitation to be aware of. Totally agree about needing a nice sub solution for the 2-doors. I think the market for that might just be too small right now, but hopefully someone is out there developing something for the 2-door models!!!
So glad to see you all back! Love your store - not many places you can do a real side by side audio comparison of Alpine, JL Audio and Morel speakers :-)
Thank you! It's good to be back, more videos to come.
Love it 😍 I can’t stop watching the video’s I will be coming through ray
Long time waiting we need more vids
Going to try and make one a month moving forward. Thank you!
Love the video and what your doing with the channel. If im adding an aftermarket head unit like the Alpine 490 or 509 when it gets released do I have to worry about a pre amp unit?
Hi Jeff, thanks for the feedback, much appreciated! You will not need any type of pre-amp adapter if you are installing an aftermarket unit like the Alpine X409-WRA-JL or X509-WRA-JL or even the Stinger HEIGH10. This would only be used if you're keeping the factory head unit.
Great video but one question I have did not see addressed in video. Have a Jeep JL non-factory amp. You connected the amp outputs to the harness on the pac-amp to use the factory speaker wires. I "think" the front kick panels have factory crossovers to the dash speakers. When you replace the front kick panels speakers and dash speakers with a set of aftermarket components. Are you using the crossover that comes with the aftermarket spearkers or are you using the factory ones?
Thanks and great question. There is just a passive crossover (cap) on the factory tweeter so once you remove the factory tweeter, you're removing the crossover. You'll definitely want to use the crossover that comes with your aftermarket speakers.
We should use JL audio component speakers and amps
I like to cherry pick among brands. I find each brand tends to excel in one particular area or another. Personally I think JL Audio rocks when it comes to amps and subs (love the Stealthboxes and have a 12W6 in my Jeep) but not everyone can afford to do all top of the line JL audio. Also, speakers are so subjective because everyone’s ears are different so I let clients pick what sound best to them for their particular budget. This client preferred the Powerbass 2XL-63C over the similarly priced JL C1-650 (and honestly I did too because I prefer the soft dome tweeter on the Powerbass). Pick and choose what sounds best to you! Anything is better than stock in these vehicles 😊
Awesome video Annie, I am planning on going with the Morel Virtus 602 in my dash, and 1 JL Stealth box for now but I keep going back and forth on the sound bar. Would you recommend a second set of the Morels or would a high end 6x9 ( like the Audio Frog GS693) blend better?
Hi Heath, thank you! Let me ask you, have your actually listened to the Virtus 602? Only reason I ask is they have an awesome tweeter, but they are lacking a bit in the mid range so it's not a bad idea to do 6x9 in the rear if possible. I haven't heard the Audio Frog GS693, but we did just recently do the MB Quart Stage 6 upgrade (video coming this weekend) with their 6x9's in the rear and I was really happy with the outcome.
I haven't heard those speakers so I don't know how well they would blend together. Might make sense to do them or it might make more sense to do a matching Virtus 6.5" point source or perhaps even a Maximo Ultra 6x9. Also depends a lot on your power and listening preferences. If you are driving top down/doors off very often, probably makes more sense to have the added surface area for open air listening. If you're a SQ person and riding mostly with hard top on or just removing the freedom panels probably makes more sense to keep it consistent front and rear.
Hi, great video! Any reason why you didn't go with Metra overhead pods? Maybe not available at the time of this video? Thanks!
They simply weren't to market yet when this video was made.
I put my Bassknobs in the Same Location
Hello good morning I like to know what will the cost will be I have a 2018 rubicon I will love to do this system
yes thanks again for your help, I have a customer with an 2020 JL and the last shop hooked her aftermarket Audison amp up to the high level input with the factory alpine amp still installed we have aftermarket hertz 6.5 throughout and it seems like the front 6.5 are not as clear and when I try to turn the gain up on the amp it gets worst, do you think if I get a true clean RCA signal with the AP4-CH41R2 that would be a better place to start, also they hooked her subwoofers up with the PACsni-35 line out level does that mean it's also getting the same signal from the factory Alpine amp? Do you think I should just remove those 2 sources and do the AMPRO? 1 last question how do you really feel about the toslink optical or RCA's is there a big difference. Thanks again for all your video's I find myself going back 3 and 4 years watching your content and you're like the only person on you tube that's doing real RCA pre-out voltage tests thanks so much I had the stinger and took it back because it never really sounded it good for what we wanted because the pre-amp voltage is terrible lol, Thanks so much you have the best JL info on here.......
That is such a crime!!! Why do shops do this? I will never understand. We've done repairs like this at our shop too, usually it's a total gut and redo. You will absolutely get a true clean RCA signal with the AP4-CH41R2!! Rip those LOC's out there, put the PAC in there and you will be the customer's hero when the job is done. It will be an unbelievable night and day difference.
Toslink is WELL worth it IF you have the power. We are running toslink out of our Stinger HEIGH10 to a Helix V Eight DSP and Helix and it's honestly the biggest selling feature of that head unit IMO because yeah, the RCA voltage on it sucked, but the toslink makes up for it. I wasn't sold on toslink when we 1st started doing the PAC modules only because we were trying it with the JL VX1005/i which just wasn't enough output. It was very clean, but 75x4 RMS just doesn't cut it especially in a Jeep.
The biggest problem is unless they used a summing device in this install, which it sounds like they didn't, you're not even getting a full range signal through the aftermarket equipment. Pull out the line output converters, put the PAC module in, run RCA's or toslink if you've got the power in the amps, tune it with volume to the max and the client will hug you when they finally get to hear what their equipment REALLY sounds like. And thank you for the encouraging words! We actually have a non amplified JLU in the shop getting a system right now, tomorrow morning I'll try and make a quick pre-amp test video, but I won't have it posted until probably next weekend. We have tested it before though, it's clean and that is how we tune all of these with the volume to the max on the factory radio.
correct me if im wrong
so after the installation you cant control the bass or treble from the factory head unit ? because i can see the bass knob already installed in center unit ?
Or does the bass knob controlling the bass for the sub and the bass in the head unit controlling the bass for the remaining speakers ?
can you please explain ?
thank you for the video
Hey there, awesome question! The bass knob is actually a sub level control knob. I just call it a bass knob because I think that's what we've just always called them, but it's specifically controlling the subwoofer(s) level. When you adjust the bass on the head unit, you're actually boosting the overall bass signal going to the amps which affects the subwoofer and the interior speakers to some extent. You may find this video on pre-amp adapters helpful where we test the output levels of the AP4-CH41R2:
czcams.com/video/j-kAeI4yHKk/video.htmlfeature=shared
If you were to boost the bass on the head unit you will introduce clipping at a lower volume so it's best to leave that flat and just use the bass knob for bass adjustment. I hope that makes sense!
Hi Annie. Hope all is well. Been following your page and videos and greatly appreciate all the information and explanations you've provided - it's much appreciated. I have a 2021 Jeep JL sport and have been thinking of upgrading my sounds. Inclined towards the JL Audio 10" sub you have in the video, but have 2 questions. (1) Going to purchase one JL Audio sub., in doing so, do you recommend it be the passenger side or the driver side? or does it really matter? (2) In the video posted, is the JL Audio sub 2ohms or 4ohms?
Thinking of going with a 5 channel amplifier, do want to upgrade the other factory speakers as well. Nevertheless, thank you for your time.
Would've preferred taking my jeep over to place for installation, its a long way from CA. Thank you again.
Hi - personal preference on which sub to start with. Clients seem to like to start with the passenger side I think just because that's where the factory sub normally goes. If you're planning on getting one sub to start and adding the second later I recommend getting the 4 ohm version. For example, if you were going to use a JL Audio XD1000/5v2 amp to power this, that amp puts out 300 watts RMS on the sub channel with a 4 ohm load, but when you add the second, that drops it down to 2 ohm and the amp then puts out 600 watts RMS. Just be mindful of the RMS output at both 2 and 4 ohms when deciding on your 5-channel amp. Good luck!
@@carstereochick Great! Thank you Annie!
Hi Annie thanks for all the work you do, quick question could you do a distortion test on the stock JL 8.4 radio I really wanna know does it ever get a distorted signal thanks again......
Thank you for the recognition! As much I'd love to, I don't know when I'll have the opportunity. Whenever one of these comes in, we do the pre-amp adapter or change the radio. If you're using the AP4-CH41R2 that doesn't clip, it's clean all the way up. But I assume you're talking about with the stock Alpine amp connected, you want to know at what point a completely stock Alpine 8.4" system clips, is that correct? Or you mean if you do the system like I show in the video. If you do the AP4-CH41R2 and go RCA or Toslink out it's clean all the way up and just a matter of how you set your gains on your amps to make sure those aren't clipping. I hope that's helpful.
Hey Mitchell - just tested the AP4-CH41R2 with the Audio Control DM-RTA. You're clean up to 37. At 38 it will start to clip, but just slightly - not saw tooth, on the front & rear with 1 kHz and 40 Hz on the subwoofer with the included PAC bass knob all the way up. I'll get a video up in a week or two.
Any big 3 videos for JL Wranglers ? Two batteries.
Not yet on the agenda, but if it happens at the shop will definitely make one. 👍
Great video. Been researching how to update my base audio in my JLU. I have Kicker 6.5s in the rollbar and kick panels that I installed and realized I needed to juice up. So I guess the part I’m stuck on now is whether I should run wire from that harness you showed to the speakers or run an RCA to an amp and run wires from the amp to my speakers… any suggestions?
Thanks! If you have the base audio system and it's all buttoned back up, the easiest way is to grab your speaker wires at the PAC harness, run that and your RCA cables to your aftermarket amp. Since we usually do it all in one shot, we usually run speaker wires from the speakers themselves, but you don't have to, you can catch it right at the head unit in the PAC harness.
How much did it cost for that particular set up and can you list all the parts?
Hi there - there is a list of parts in the video description. We did this a few years ago so pricing and model numbers may have changed slightly. Labor prices vary widely across the country depending on region, shop experience, etc. Depending on labor rates in your area, with current product pricing this could be anywhere from $4k - $5k. I hope that helps!
Question leaving the 84 radio but doing the same work you did for his keep can I do that and what would it cost me and we’re you located
sheesh! You know what's up. Can you install my stereo for my JL?
Thank you :) I got a great shop in Brookfield, CT - Sounds Incredible Mobile. We'd love to help!
I like to know where you located
How do you do remote wires to a two amp system do you jump from one amp to another or do you run two separate wires from amp pro
It depends on where you're putting your amps. In the Wrangler's where we do one amp under each seat, we do run 2 separate lines to keep it clean. If you're doing smaller amps and they're right next to each other, you could just jump it.
Hi i just bought the ap4ch41r2 to install on my JTR 2020 with the alpine factory amp and i want to add a 4 channel amp and a mono for the 4 ch can i use the cables that are provided or do i need to order the aph-ch03? It has me confused 😅 also would i have the pin 4 on or off ?
It would be helpful to have the APH-CH03 if you have the factory Amplified system and you would want to leave dip switch 4 off. If you had the non amplified model, you would turn dip switch 4 on.
Okay I have 2018 Jeep JL will it work on my, I have to 8.4 alpine with subwoofer. Will it still work with my subwoofer. and do I have to order another amplifier for the sub because when I look up the kit , it only has two
Hi Will - I think this comment might be meant for the MB Quart upgrade? In that install we did use a small separate amp just to retain/power the stock subwoofer which will need to be re-wired to the proper impedance. You could use a matching MB Quart NA2-400.1 to power it.
Awesome 😎
Hey it’s me again! We are about to order our Diamond Audio products and wondered if you have ever figured out a nice way to put 3 way components up front. I know there is an adapter for the 6” down low in the dash and a tweeter plate for the top of the dash but have you ever seen or made anything to mount the 3” and tweeter on top of the dash of the JLUs?
Hey James. Look up Valicar out of Stuttgart at pods-tweeters-midrange.com. They make tweeter and mid range pods for A-Pillar or surface mount for a variety of brands and models. I’m not sure they do Diamond Audio, but if you know the specs, email it to them and see if they could make them or perhaps they have something spec’d for another brand that they would work in. Otherwise you’ll probably want to look into a custom fab A-Pillar mount.
@@carstereochick Thank you! Looks like I can put the 3.5” under the factory grill and maybe get a black pod from them for the tweeter!
I have a 2022 sport and I just upgraded all of the speakers and planning to add an amp in next. What do I need exactly to retain all factory functions? Also would like to add a sub in the future. What would you recommend on more of a budget setup? Thanks in advance!
The AP4-CH41R2 shown in the video, link in the description. Budget friendly amps and sub? Haven’t seen a budget friendly Wrangler JLU sub box. For the Gladiator I like the MB Quart package with two 8’s. Depends on where you want to put it and if you take the top off. I would look into any kind of down fire enclosure if you’re not going the Stealthbox route. Amps that are easy to hide and also budget friendly? Look into SounDigital amps.
I used amp pro in my 21 wrangler not sure if have pins on it set correct
One switch is for 4 volt or 5 volt (preference - we usually use 5 volt), one is for amplified or non amplified (referring to which stock system your Jeep has), one isn't used and the other one if for when you're using the toslink adapter APA-TOS1 (2-channel mode). Check out the manual, it shows the direction of each switch pretty clearly so you can make sure you have it set right (dip switch down is "on").
Ok thank you then I did have it right can't seem to get signal out of the last set of RCA ports on the only have signal on front and rear for amp pro
Do you have the bass knob plugged in? Pretty sure that needs to be plugged in even if you don't plan on using it/mounting it anywhere.
I have another question hope I am not being a pain but so I am figuring out car stereo knowledge the expensive way so my sub enclosure came preloaded with a sub my 6ch amp I now know has 1/3 the power the sub needs so I am installing a mono amp for the sub under driver's seat other amp in cargo area is the correct way to install second amp run another amp install kit from batteries into the jeep so it has its own fuse and wires I have seen guys talking about distribution blocks I currently have 100amp inline fuse in the 4gauge wire to original amp I installed I am new to all this so any help or feed back is much appreciated
I’m assuming you need the PAC unit because you’re staying with the OEM radio. What wiring harness do you use for an aftermarket stereo and an amp and aftermarket speakers in the JL? Thanks.
Hi Ron, it depends what aftermarket radio you want to go with. When we had our Alpine X409-WRA-JL, that uses the iDatalink Maestro for wiring harness/data retention. Our Stinger HEIGH10 has its own interface box/harness. Metra has their own interface too.
Personally, I have had great luck with my Kenwood DMX7704s (older model) and ADS-MRR in my 2014 Wrangler so I tend to steer clients towards Maestro compatible options, but it HAS to be a shallow mount/mechless model like a DMX7706s or iLX-407 or DMH-W4600NEX for example. Just keep in mind both iDatalink Maestro and Metra's solution does not retain the reverse camera. A reader did tip me off about an interface from Linkswell to retain the stock reverse camera, but I haven't tried it personally.
www.linkswellinc.com/products/t-style-radio/t-style-accessories/2018-2020-jeep-dodge-factory-camera-retention-adapter-jdcamadpt-19/
The other option would be to replace it with an aftermarket camera.
Thanks for the quick response. Your information was very helpful.
Hi, recently purchased for 2019 JL:
12" SWING GATE-MOUNTED 800 WATT LOADED SUBWOOFER ENCLOSURE FOR JEEP WRANGLER JL
PHOENIX GOLD RX2 500 WATT CLASS D MONOBLOCK AMPLIFIER
Assuming I need the PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 R2 and the stinger SK- 4241 for installation? Thanks -Chad
Hi Chad - are you doing any other upgrades besides adding the subwoofer? Are you also adding a 4-channel amp as well? Is your vehicle equipped with the regular audio or premium Alpine? 4 Ga is probably more than you need for that one amp, but I would run 4 gauge anyways so you can expand it and use a fused block to go to a 4-channel.
The AP4-CH41R2 can be used to add a 4-channel amp and mono amp to models equipped with either radio. HOWEVER - if you only want to use it to add a subwoofer, you can only do that in the amplified models ONLY.
If you have the non amplified radio and you just want to add the sub amp, you may want to get yourself a PAC Audio LPA-2.2, LPA-REM and LPHCH41. It's a line output converter, but T-harness design specifically for non amplified models.
@@carstereochick Thanks for the quick response, my 2019 jeep has the upgraded alpine system. Yes, just adding a 12" subwoofer and PHOENIX GOLD RX2 500 WATT CLASS D MONOBLOCK AMPLIFIER. Sorry, this is my first install, I'm not very knowledgeable with this stuff, but I am good at following instructions, lol
@@carstereochick I think I understand now. So my jeep has the Alpine premium system, so I just need the Ap4-CH41R2 and the stinger SK-4241 kits and I should be good to go for install, correct ?
Yes, that will work. You'll also need an RCA cable. You're just using the AP4-CH41R2 for the sub, but keep in mind you can always expand it later and use the front and rear pre-out for a 4-channel down the road.
@@carstereochick You’re the best, The RCA cable would be used to connect Amp to sub ? Thank you so much for your help!!
Did you happen to lose your back up camera after installation the PAC AP4-CH41 R.2 🤔 and the XMRADIO
Have sold and installed dozens of these and never ran into that. Perhaps the antenna connector and camera cable are not seated/fully locked in? I would double check those connections 1st. It could just be that you may need to let the car do another sleep cycle or two. Lock all the doors, let the car sit with the key away from it for a few hours.
I have a 2020 Gladiator with the amplified alpine system. I have replaced the top dash speakers with the 3 1/2 Kenwood‘s that Crutchfield recommends and had a good improvement. I thought about doing the same speakers to replace the 3 1/2 in the sound bar.
Do you think I should do that and put the 6 1/2 in the knee panels? Or just go with 6 1/2 in the knee panel and 6 1/2 in the sound bar? Will the factory radio an amplifier handle all that? I wasn’t really wanting to go to any aftermarket wiring or amplifiers. Thanks.
Whenever upgrading to aftermarket speakers, but powering them off a factory head unit/amp, you are limited in the sound quality and output. The factory amp has crossovers built in, so it's directing a specific frequency range to the upper dash middlers, another range to the lower dash 4" and another range to the stock subwoofer. I haven't tried that in the Gladiator or JL, but in general my advice to anyone thinking about doing that with any stock audio system is this. Any upgrade would be moderate when compared to the full performance capability of the same speaker when matched with a good, clean, full range signal and quality aftermarket amplification.
@@carstereochick that’s good information but doesn’t really answer my question. I do not want to upgrade the stock amplified alpine system past the speakers themselves. The upper dash speaker upgrade made a big difference in volume and clarity coming from the front.
On second though I’m assuming your answer to my direct question would be “I don’t know, haven’t tried that”. Thank you for your response.
@@KnightsGarage that’s essentially what I said, “I haven’t tried it in the Gladiator or JL” but I gave you information on the performance upgrade that I see in general in any vehicle when upgrading stock speakers off a factory head unit. Upgrading to 6.5” will provide more surface area so you’ll get a greater response. To you it will probably sound better. But if I played you that same speaker with the AP4-CH41R2 and an aftermarket amp you’d realize just how much performance you’re leaving on the table. I get it what you’re looking to do, but this is what I do for a living so it’s hard for me to do that kind of minimal upgrade for a client knowing how good it *could* sound if you go all the way.
@@carstereochick yes I relished that at the end. This response was kind of what I was looking for. I know the factories stereo wouldn’t output to the speakers potential I just wanted to sound much better with the factory stereo and factory amp.
I do understand what your are saying though.
Great vid so if I have the alpine but 7 inch radio should I still upgrade speakers n Amp etc
Thanks! Yes, we use the PAC AP4-CH41R2 in all the Jeep JLU audio upgrades, even the super basic non touch screen is compatible. If you’re looking for a system with crystal clear highs, vibrant mids and deep punchy bass, full aftermarket with higher power handling speakers, amps and sub(s) is the way to go.
@@carstereochick You have a round about price for this install? I have the alpine system in a 2021 rubicon xle.
@@steventaylor3451 it varies WIDELY depending on what speakers selected, number and type of amplifiers, 1 or 2 Stealthboxes. Because pricing is constantly changing due to global shipping cost increases and increasing raw materials cost I’m hesitant to post an answer here in the comments because that could change by next week. Feel free to contact me at our shop for details, call or text 203-778-3330. Thank you! -Annie
What speaker harness did you use for the 6.5” on the sound bar? Bigger or smaller speaker?
We use the SSV Works JJT-SAO65 adapters for the rears to put in 6.5" and run speaker wire, but if you want to re-use the OEM wiring, Metra has the JP-1015 which is basically the same thing but with a speaker harness adapter:
metraonline.com/part/JP-1015
If I was to bring in brand-new parts, wires amp radio and so on including enclosures by Metra would you guys install them for me? For a 2019 JL 4-door Wrangler without Alpine system.
Edit : And I almost forgot I have a Pioneer AVH 4400 double din, is there anyway possible to make this thing fit in my Wrangler? Can we cram it in there somehow and make it work? I paid a lot of money for this thing and I would like to be able to use it. Thank you very very much for your time
Hi, we’d be happy to help but there is no way your Pioneer 4400 is going in there unless you want it sticking out of the dash by about 3-4”. The design of the dash simply doesn’t allow for it and unlike other vehicles with shallow mount design, it’s not like there is any sub dash modification that can be done to accommodate it. The space just isn’t there. The good news is due to the chip shortage there is a decent market for double dins right now even used, so you can probably fetch a decent price for that in FB marketplace or eBay. Give us a call, send a text or email us to discuss. Thanks!
www.soundsincrediblemobile.com
So I have the sub in my 2021 jlu rubicon but want to take it out and go jl audio stealthbox. Here is the issue. I am assuming the carpet part number you referenced is for a 2018? Thanks in advance for your help!
Jeep doesn't appear to have changed the carpet part #. I'm pretty sure the vehicle used in this video was actually a 2020. Either way, when I google the part # for the carpet shown in the description it comes up on various Mopar parts websites as compatible with 2018 - 2022 Unlimited Rubicon, Unlimited Sahara, etc. The way I figured it out was I just grabbed a VIN off a non Alpine 4-door Wrangler and used that to figure out which parts were needed. You could always do that just to be certain when ordering. Usually trim panels like that don't change unless they do a body style change.
Thanks a ton for your help!
Quick Question. I have a 2022 Jeep Wrangler 392 coming with the Apline upgraded sounds system and sub. Would it still be best to use the PAC Audio adapter with this system if I want to do after market JL Audio Speakers and 2 JL Audio Amps and the JL Audio Subs you showed? I used to be an installer for a high end Car audio shop back in the day and we were always taught to bypass factory amps? But that was 15 - 20 years ago.
It looks like PAC hasn't confirmed compatibility yet in 2022, only up to 2021, but I'm not aware of any changes. As long there have been no software changes and it's compatible, that would still be our preferred method of install.
Think of it like working with the pre-amp of a nice aftermarket head unit like an Alpine, Sony or Kenwood. It piggybacks off the factory harness behind the radio, so it's a really clean, plug and play design. You can also get the amp bypass harness to keep your connections nice and clean (APH-CH03 - also officially only listed up to 2020 at this time, I checked my records latest model we've used this in is a 2020).
If you want additional fine tune control you could also consider the iDatalink DSR1 or you could always add a DSP to the PAC adapter. The adapter has 5 volt RCA out or you can get a toslink adapter and keep it digital into whatever DSP you like to use.
@@carstereochick Thank you for the info! I plan on using the JL Audio VX600 amps. One for the 2 subs and the other for the Mids and Highs. These amps are digital and allow fine tuning which I have no experience in that but love the concept since the Jeep has such awful lay out for speakers to create a proper sound stage. If you get any experience with the 2022 models let me know. I will also let you know if it works on my end when we do the install. Do you have any experience with those JL Audio Amps? If so, do I have to run straight digital signal into them and no RCAs?
I see you found your answer in the older video :) Please do let us know how it goes with the PAC adapter. I don't have any 2022's yet on my schedule so we would be happy to hear what you find regarding compatibility - we appreciate it!
@@carstereochick Will do! It won't be for a few months since I will need to recover from the Down Payment. But I am sure the Factory sound system will drive me nuts!
@@carstereochick Can you help confirm that the APH-CH03 will work on a 2021 Wrangler? It has not been updated on PACs list. It appears to be the same, unless I missed something. Any input is appreciated. TY
Hello, how are you? I plan on buying a Jl stealth box and I would like to tackle the install myself. I have the premium alpine system so I’ll only be adding the passenger side sub could you tell me exactly what parts I’ll need for the install beside the basics(sub, amp, amp rack, fuse holder bracket) ? And is at there a video reference for wiring the amp to the battery and factory head unit?
Hi Jaytwan- sure, in the video description there is a list of all products used with links. If you are only adding a sub and nothing else, instead of the AP4-CH41R2 you could get the APSUB-CH41 which is for adding a sub only:
catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-subwoofer-interfaces/apsub-ch41
We have not made a video yet on how to wire up an amp, but I can tell you we usually run the power wire under the vehicle to the passenger side and pop it up through an existing grommet in the floor. The PAC adapters have very detailed instructions on how they work, it's pretty straight forward and there is usually room for the module behind the glove box.
catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=1891
I hope that's helpful! Thanks so much for watching.
@@carstereochick is there any splicing into the factory radio wires to connect the APSUB?
No splicing - did you check out the install guide? Here it is again for reference, page 1: catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=1891
@@carstereochick Okay I see now, thank you. What about the 12vdc connection for the amp?
It's on the same page labeled remote turn on output ;)
Edit: unless you're talking about the main power wire to the battery? That you'll have to figure out, we route it under the vehicle to the passenger side foot well there is a grommet you can pop right up through. You can find a detailed guide that may be helpful with your install here. It's the MB Quart Stage 6 upgrade which includes 6 speakers, 2 amps and the full pre-amp adapter:
mbquart.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/MBQuart-Jeep-VehKit-MBQJ-ACC-1-MBQJ-ACC-1AH-Install-Rev02.pdf
So I have the 8.4" Alpine system in my 2020 JL, if I want to add the JLAudio drivers side stealthbox can I do that and still have the factory Alpine sub (on my rear passenger side) function as well?
Yes, if you're just adding the subwoofer and an amp for that - not changing any of the speakers and using an aftermarket amp on those - you can buy the AP4-SUBCH41 which is the same idea as the pre-amp adapter we used in the video (AP4-CH41R2) BUT it's designed specifically for just adding an aftermarket sub to the factory Alpine premium system. You could also just use a high quality signal sensing line output converter and grab audio signal from the stock sub, but the pre-amp adapter is cleaner audio signal because its signal is obtained before the stock amp.
catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-subwoofer-interfaces/apsub-ch41
If you're looking to do the full audio system upgrade, all new speakers and amp those using the AP4-CH41R2, then the best way to retain the stock sub is with a small aftermarket amp because you need to have some gain adjustment and control over it and blend it in with the aftermarket. You'd also have to re-wire the stock sub. If I recall correctly it's something a quad 4 ohm voice coil wired in parallel? So you'd need to series, then parallel for a stable impedance to an aftermarket amp. We've done this for a few clients. One client decided the stock sub was just too boomy and detracted from the sound quality of his aftermarket sub so we ended up disconnecting it for him. The other two enjoy having it for extra fill.
@@carstereochick AWESOME, thanks for this!!
I know this is a VERY old video but if you have the amplified system is there anyway that you can use the amp pro to modify your Jeep in stages? Like install the CH-41 but only use the subwoofer out for the start?
Theoretically yes, I have been told by PAC Audio you can do this but ONLY in the amplified models.
@@carstereochick thank you for replying!!
@@carstereochick I’m guessing since the other speakers are previously amplified it won’t have an issue but I’ll try it out
I’ve asked PAC about this before, but all of our clients have ended up just doing the full system up front. I do recall speaking to them and being told you can definitely do that if you’re building in phases, but only on the amplified models and that’s what their APSUB-CH41 is based off; it only features the sub channel. Since you’re not disconnecting the stock amp or any speaker wiring, you should be good to go 👍
@@carstereochick sweet! Ever worked on a Jeep Grand Cherokee? That’s where my system will be.
Is it possible to use the factory JL alpine amp to run the front speakers and use another amp to run my soundbar 6x9’s using the PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 R2? Or does the PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 R2 completely disable all outputs from the factory amp?
Great question and yes you can. You can only do this in the models with the stock Alpine premium system. If you have the non amplified model, you can still use the PAC pre-amp adapter but it's an all or nothing approach with non amplified models.
@@carstereochick Thank you! What do you think about the DSR1? Is there any way to tie it in to the PAC AmpPRO? Or use it in place of the PAC AmpPRO? I was using the DSR1 with my non-Alpine Jeep JL before it was totaled. I just ordered a new Jeep JL with the Alpine sound system and I’m trying to figure out if it’s something that I can actually use again.
The DSR1 is a great piece, but they're extremely hard to find right now because of the chip shortage. It's basically like the PAC pre-amp adapter but with more audio control because it has a DSP built in. It's not uncommon for our shop to have clients install the DSR1 themselves (in all sorts of vehicles) and then bring it in to us for a proessional amp and DSP tuning.
Because there is less set up involved, for a lot of do-it-yourselfers out there, the PAC Pre-amp is the easier and more cost effective way to go. Even at our shop, a lot of our clients opt for the PAC Pre-amp adapter vs anything with a DSP because DSP's always add additional hardware cost and install time $. BUT if you have it already and know how to set it up (or have a reputable shop that can help you do an RTA tuning), by all means use it, that's a great interface to have.
What I don't know is if you can do what you were asking about earlier with the DSR1 where you use it just for the new rear sound bar speakers and new amp at the same time as your stock front speakers running off the stock amp. I would recommend reaching out to tech support at iDatalink Maestro to verify. Looks like it's a different harness that you'll need from the last Jeep you had:
www.idatalinkmaestro.com/en/accessory/768/HRN-AR-CH4
@@carstereochick You’re awesome! Thanks a lot!
You’re welcome, I’m glad I could help! 👍
What’s the cost for this set up
In our industry, I would say the cost is going to vary widely depending on geographical location, experience/labor rate of the technician, what speakers, amp(s), sub(s) are selected and whether or not they're keeping the stock head unit and going the pre-amp adapter route or upgrading the head unit to something like the Stinger HEIGH10 or Alpine i509-WRA-JL. Also pricing on product seems to change on a month to month basis lately so what this client paid when we did it compared to what it would cost now is about a $1k difference due to cost increases in chips, labor and shipping. Our Jeep clients have spent anywhere from $2,500 - $12,500 on a full system upgrade and sometimes they do it in phases too. I hope that is helpful.
Can the JL stealthbox fit in a 2 door JL with the backseat removed?
Have not had the opportunity to check that out in person. The only 2-door that came through for an audio upgrade kept their rear seats in. Are you local to our shop? We're in Brookfield, CT. We keep the Stealthboxes in stock and would be happy to test fit.
@@carstereochick thanks for the reply and info. Unfortunately, I’m around 2600 miles away.
will a JL 10TW3-D4 fit in the stock alpine sub in a 2021 wrangler?
Great question! No, not really without basically rebuilding it essentially. The issue with trying to re-use the stock enclosure either in the JL or JK - or really any stock subwoofer enclosure - is that it's just a thin, cheap plastic enclosure designed for the super basic stock subwoofer that isn't intended to handle a ton of power. If you try to put anything more substantial in the OEM enclosure you basically have to reinforce the entire inside with fiberglass to stiffen and strengthen it. Plus I think your airspace would be off. The 10" TW3 handles needs about .55 cubic ft sealed and I think roughly what you have there is probably closer to .35 like what the TW1 wants. But again, these subwoofers need a very stiff, completely sealed enclosure and the stock enclosure IMO is not even close to being sturdy enough.
@@carstereochick Thanks for your answer! I was just looking to do as many small upgrades as possible without completely redoing everything. Are you aware of any "plug-n-play" subwoofer upgrades? I have heard of stuffing that box with polyfill to help. But as far as a an actual subwoofer I am coming up short and looking for some pro tips.
You're welcome. I have not seen any easy sub upgrades like that, BUT what you could do if you want to do this in phases is you can get the pre-amp adapter (assuming you have the model equipped with the stock sub) and you can use the pre-amp adapter just for the sub for now and use the front/rear portion of it for a future upgrade. Then you could do the driver's side JL Audio Stealthbox. If you're eventually planning on doing the full upgrade, that would be one way to break it down into phases. If you think you'll only ever want to add the sub, they do make that adapter too, the AP-SUBCH41.
@@carstereochick I’m interested in doing this in phases like your talking about so to begin with I’d need the pre amp adapter, the pdxv9, and the sub? Could you possibly make a list of what I’d need to do that phase of it ? And thanks for your awesome videos
Hi David, thanks, I'm glad you're enjoying the content! There is a list in the video description with links for everything we used, but for the 1st phase basically you'd need:
-the pre-amp adapter (which you can only use in phases if you have the Alpine system - otherwise you'll need a line output converter - check out Pac Audio new LOC Pro with T-harness for easy install -catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/lphch41)
-the JL Audio under seat amp mount
-optional JL Audio fuse holder bracket
-quality 4 gauge OFC wire kit - JL or Stinger
-Alpine PDXV9
-RUX-KNOB2 if you want a bass knob and have the non amplified system
-one RCA cable (we usually use 12 ft)
-some speaker wire
-the Stealthbox