How to gold leaf, silver leaf and metal leaf with 3 hour oil size
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- čas přidán 31. 08. 2011
- This detailed demonstration shows you how to apply genuine gold, silver, imitation gold, aluminum and copper leaf to objects and furniture using the classic 3 hour oil size method. Brought to you by the folks at gildedplanet.com, you'll learn about types of adhesive, tacking and drying rates, easy leaf application tips and cleaning and burnishing the leaf.
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Of the ton of videos about gilding this is one of the best. Tnx
Thank you for this video, it explains things very well!
gesso is used when doing a 'Traditional Water Gilding' application. This is the old world method used on furniture and objects and requires the base surface to be coated with multiple layers of gesso and then genuine clay (bole). Each layer is sanded. Then apply genuine gold leaf with a gelatin or animal glue (adhesive). While wet, the gold is laid onto the surface. Then use an agate burnisher (stone) and rub over the leaf. This creates a mirror shine. Expensive and labor intense.
The oil thingy is a primer sealer and has 2 functions. 1) create a sealing and bonding layer to the substrate. So the surface - wood, plastic, metal, stone - becomes non-pourous and the primer layer will not flake off surface. 2) establishes a solid base for the subsequent layers of adhesive size. Many applications can be complete with a latex primer or latex paint base coat. Each project is different. Working on metal, stone, plastic or exterior applications then the oil primer is recommended.
Imitation gold and metal leaf are about 2.5 to 3 microns thick. Once you have applied multiple leaves, even over a smooth surface using oil based size, you can expect to see seam lines that de-mark each individual leaf. When using genuine gold (at 0.5 microns) you should expect to see the edge lines too, however, with a truly smooth base surface, thin and even oil size application and gold applied at the right tack, you can get the gold to virtually melt into itself and appear continuous.
If tack is gone, best option is to isolate holiday and create a larger 'square' over holiday. Use fine steel wool or 400 grit sand paper and wear the leaf in a perfect square. Follow existing edge lines if possible. Apply new size and lay a leaf over the entire square. Logic: irregular spots are hard to fix. If size gets on a gilt area, a double gilt layer is created. A 'halo' results. By dulling the leaf surface, you add a layer of gold that is 1 layer thick, and should not reflect differently.
Yes, that varnish should work fine. The majority of solvent based clear coats bond well and self level over metal an genuine gold leaf. Water based varnishes can be trickier and tend to bead and pool over the non porous gilt surface, requiring you to back brush or tip off the varnish as it dries. Which can cause streaks or 'milky' spots.
The concept is easy. Wide range of of subtleties though. Just got to get in there. You'll love it. Fantastic medium to work with....
U make it look so easy!
Generally speaking the seam lines btwn each leaf are visible on the finished surface. With metal leaf, such as imitation gold, aluminum and copper, you can always expect to see the thin seam lines. With genuine leaf, at approx. 0.5 microns, in conjunction with use of an oil sizing, you may get a more continuos surface finish.
When you see domes on churches, mosques or government buildings, you generally see all the lines btwn the leafs.
I guess Im pretty off topic but do anybody know of a good website to stream newly released series online?
@Dominik Jericho Try FlixZone. Just search on google for it :)
@Maddox Douglas Definitely, I've been using flixzone for since april myself =)
@Maddox Douglas thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :D I appreciate it!!
@Dominik Jericho no problem :D
there are 2 key differences when working with carved detail. 1st, apply the size thinly and evenly. Pay attention to any 'pooling' of the size in the recesses as gravity will pull the size downward. This results in uneven tack time, with 'high' points at perfect tack and 'low' points too wet, as the size is too thick. 2nd, use loose leaf instead of patent leaf. Lay leaf over the carving. It will stick to the high points, then place a 2nd leaf over this. It moves down until it finds fresh tack.
Harris brushes with 'triple split' bristles ;) it's about as close as you can get to a spray finish using a brush. They rock! ;)
what do I do if I applied the silver leaf before the dux quick dry oil size what ready?
Hi for brass detailed metallic objects such as a koi fish with perforations, how would I go about gilding the details? Do I just apply the dux 3 hr oil adherent agent ? How to use the flakes that drop off after gilding? I really aim for no wastage but I need to know how to use the scraps ?I am aiming to make a chandelier which is going to be a task but I love learning the concept and correct method before investing.
Sure, that works. You can thin oil size up to 10% with mineral spirits (white spirits). Apply a nice even film and what for any sagging.
Is it possible to get a perfectly uniform surface ?
Can you varnish with something like Gamvar which is a product from Gamblin used to varnish an oil painting. I ask this because if I wanted to use metal leaf as an element in an oil painting I would want to varnish the entire painting with the same product.
When would you use gesso?
hi there....is there anything called transfer gilding ( gold ) for exterior purpose. I want to get it done on a metal frame...which could possibly be titanium.
Yes. "Patent" or "transfer" leaf is available. Each individual square of genuine or metal leaf is mounted on a piece of white wax paper, allowing you to pick up the paper without touching the leaf. You lay the exposed gold side down on top of the adhesive size, rub over the paper backing and peel off the wax paper like a transfer. This works great for exterior applications and 'gilding in the wind'. You can also cut the sheets with sharp scissors to use as strips if needed. It is available at our online store www.gildedplanet.com
can I use a water based clear coat like Varnish Plus from Faux Effects on aluminum leaf? It is for a large table top
Yes you can. Better products would be 'Varathane' waterbased clear coat (made by Rustoleum) or 'Masters Clear[, By Modern Masters. Both available at Home Depot, Lowes or a good local paint supplier. Pay attention during the application process as water based sealers tend to bead and pool over the no-porous leaf surface. Simply back brush over the applied varnish as it sets up to get it to level out. Don't over work it as it drys or it can streak on you.
how do you get rid of the joint and make it look like one whole piece instead seen each piece im working on this tables but dont want to see the squares hope to hear from you
The only way to avoid the square shape is to avoid using square shape foil. You can use metal leafing "flakes", it's just a lot more messy and time consuming. While not as smooth as a whole sheet, there is no distracting overall pattern like there is using the "square" sheets.
Buen día! Que Spray usaste al final? Es goma laca, barniz? Que marca?
Saludos.
Usamos un rodillo de pelo corto y una brocha para suavizar la aplicación. El sellador Dux Acrylic Top Coat funciona muy bien para este tipo de aplicación. Este es un producto transparente, protegido contra los rayos UV y a base de solvente. Disponible para comprar en gildedplanet.com
I ordered beautiful mosaic tiles on ebay, tiny beige tile squares interspersed with just a few random gold squares here n there, to add drama and luxury. But when they arrived, they were actually coffee-coloured squares interspersed with orange glass pieces. Its going to cost me too much to send them back, so I thought - what if i gold-leaf the orange glass tile pieces? Is it possible to gold leaf glass tiles? And will it be able to withstand a washroom environment (just a sink/basin and toilet, no shower or bath) as these mosaics will be on the wall above the sink? I'd say I could do about 30-40 tiles at least with just one of those leaf sheets u used in this video, and I dont mind if the entire tile is not covered and I get a broken look instead as that looks good too. Can you give me any pointers/tips re: materials to use, and how to do this project quickly, effectively and cheaply (or at least as cheaply as possible)? I dont want to use spray products as that will end up on the brown mosaic tiles as well, so just stuff I can paint on.
You can certainly gild the orange glass tiles. You can use genuine or imitation gold leaf for this. Ideally you would put an oil based primer on the glass tiles (tinted yellow mustard in color - but tinting not required). Once this is dry you can use a water based adhesive, imitation or genuine leaf material and complete the process with a clear coat sealer. You can use the Acrylic Top Coat sealer available at www.gildedplanet.com. But for small areas like these tiles, you could use any commercially available clear coat sealer, water based or oil based. The key is the bonding layer, which in this case is the primer that bonds to the glass, allowing the subsequent layers of adhesive, leaf and sealer to bond will to the primed glass surface.
artsparx thx so much for such a quick reply. can i ask, why oil-based primer and water-based adhesive? also, can i use a colourless primer rather than yellow tint?
Would this work on cast iron fireplace andirons? i.e. will considerable heat (+500°F) affect this application?
Hi Sean. Unfortunately, gilding on andirons is not a great idea. Both the oil based adhesive and the waterbased sizes will not stand up under these temperatures. Genuine gold and silver are approx 0.3 microns and metal leaf is 3-4 microns, both also too thin to survive continued 500+ heat. Plus metal leaf, like imitation gold and copper leaf, need to be sealed to prevent oxidation. These sealers would not hold up to the high heat. We do however gild around fireplace surrounds and mantles quite regularly. Many gilding applications can withstand indirect heat. Hope this is helpful.
Do you ship to Canada, Toronto?
Yes we do! All orders outside the US can be called in or email to sales@gildedplanet.com
Yes we do. All order outside the US can be sent as an email order or PO to goldsmith@gildedplanet.com - or call us!
Why not put the size on a scrap and use that for testing rather than risking marring the size or pulling some off if not set up or getting contaminants in it etc?
Are you serious, maybe is the camera, but that appears tacky.
It's always a good idea to test sample first. If you want to learn how long the size takes to come to tack - which can vary due to local environment, temperature, humidity, etc. - this is a great way to learn without starting on the actual item or area you wish to gild.
WHY are teaching gold leafing with the leaf BLOWING IN THE WIND?
When gilding outside, which is common, the wind plays an important roll, one that the gilder needs to prepare for, as well as learn how to handle leaf in those conditions.