FLSUN S1 Made BETTER, WITH A DRILL!
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- čas přidán 7. 08. 2024
- Thank you to PCBWAY for sponsoring todays video, needs something, printed, machined or a PCB for a project? Check them out here! pcbway.com/g/7yaVlg
So the FLSUN S1 is off to a BIT of a rough start, but nothing some post release updates cant fix (hopefully) BUT
that wont make it not loud, so loud infact its the loudest printer i own, so lets see if we can do something about that AND maybe get a few added benefits along the way
So like Ben Afflect on an asteroid trying to save earth, we need to drill!
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0:00 INTRO, FLSUN S1 is LOUD!
1:39 SPONSORED SPOT
2:27 Why So Loud?
5:00 To fix it, WE DRILL
6:45 Put it back together
7:44 So....did it work? - Věda a technologie
That one guy on the Flsun design team going "I told y'all we should've flipped it".
Since decibel is a logarithmic unit, 10db is a halving of perceived sound. (3db is halving of power, but that's not how humans perceive it) So 55 to 45 is pretty massive. Pretty good improvement.
Also by re-circulating the air you’re not fighting positive pressure in the chamber anymore. It would be interesting to put a 3-way valve so you could pull air from either outside or inside or a mixture of both and see how air source affects different materials and also chamber temps and heat bed power usage.
Printing ABS/ASA, I find the cpap is way too much air anyway. Rather not pump in cold air as well. Good mod!
I have an ender 3 S1 Pro and 2 Ikea Lack end tables stacked together to form a poor man's enclosure. The sides are covered and I even put insulation (a bubble-wrap aluminum foil sandwidch I made myself) inside of it to keep it warm (I don't have any space in my house for the printer so it lives in my shed which gets very cold in Buffalo NY winters.
I want to add C-pap cooling to it AND have a way to control chamber temps. It still gets too cold in the winter and too hot in the summper. I plan to cut a hole in the top Lack (the top/ceiling of the enclosure) and add a simple 3-D printed dampener. Idealy I will be able to add a small ceramic heater inline to heat it in the winter. After I watch your other FLSUN delta printer review I got the idea for all of this.
Just thought I would throw that out as a suggestion. Avtive chamber temp control is the last hurdle for me to get reliable results out of my printer.
The best solutions are so often the simplist. It's not everyone that sees them though - excellent work.
I am happy to see PCBWAY sponsoring a video, they do so much for content creators.
A good tuned printer profile in orca or prusa would likely make the most difference. That being said, one those tweaks happen I bet the mod will show more benefit.
Great idea. I wonder if you could also add a long tube with similar diameter to the intake that is now inside the chamber and if that would further decrease the noise level without restriction of airflow.
Nice beard trim... it was about time! Looking good!
Could put a half donut shaped duct in front of the intake to reduce turbulent sound even more and probably even get slightly better performance
Do you have issues with salmon skin or diagonal line artefacts with the S1?
I'm reading a ton about it in the flsun discord and have it on order but if its a hw issue I'll cancel my order
Yes. thats another thing on the list, you can kind of see it on the test prints
@@CanuckCreator do you think it's a hw issue or fixable with software?
@@DefY0806it has unfortunately smooth instead of teethed idlers, so if we change those to teethed it should only get better. Worst case no print quality improvement but your belts will last longer. There is really no excuse to use smooth idlers on the teethed side, either bearing stacks for increase lifespan or teethed idlers like it was intended by the belt manufacturer
Cancel your order my guy. The hotend end can't handle abrasive filaments.
@@Twinnecrotic what happened?
You could add a printed mini baffle/muffler to those screw holes on the inside part of the chamber. Should make a pretty big difference in noise for pretty minimal loss in air flow
I have a CPAP on my FLSun Super Racer and I mounted it upside down and with a velocity stack, because they are awesome.
Measuring sound:
-at a set distance, almost always 1 meter away from the source
-mic directed at the source
The second is especially important when using phones to measure sound as all new phones use 2 microphones for noise cancellation, but that should be handled by the measuring software, hopefully. Samsung S and Note phones do a damn good job of measuring noise levels, despite a tiny mic hole.
Hey Taylor.
Great video.
Just a quick heads up you still have Nero 3d on your subscription etc outro.
Looks like FLSun should let you keep the unit if they havent already and send you another one along with a check for fixing an engineering and design issue. j.s.
The CPAP Fan intake is/was so wrong when you print you want a hot chamber and "hot air" from the Chamber for Fan(s) so when you print with ABS you cool too fast your layers and then your layer adhesion i like nothing
i like it that someone did it
Have you done any speed measurements on it? Sounds like it only barely matches the Bambu printers, much less going as fast as the Voron clones/RatRig.
what about PLA? did you do any testing?
And now you can't use a muffler
Can we get an ABS layer strength comparison? Asking for a friend.
Ah man, I saw the title and thought you were going to try to get it over 2 meters/sec by way of drill induced speed holes. Then I remembered you're Canada man, not Florida man or Homer Simpson.
Nah, id use a pickaxe if i was adding speed holes
should of done warping test before and after
My lid doesn't have the vent holes. Only the cpap hole
"I'm always lat... oh ok not a live" 😆
Still quieter than the fan that came with the SV08...😂
WHERES POWER ARMOR PART 2?!????!?!???!??!??
-3 dB means half the noise
Just not psychoacoustically. About 10dB sounds half/twice as loud
-3dB is half the sound power, but our ears don’t perceive -3dB as half as loud. It takes approximately -10dB to do that. Welcome to psychoacoustics.
Thats quite the sound difference. Considering the logarithmic way db is calculated every 3 db is a doubling/halving. So this mod cut it in half or better acording to your phone.
The Canuck tool man
cpap intake from outside -- wow, after seeing so many meh reviews of this machine, why are they using the gimmicky steppers with "closed loop", why they're writing a slicer, why they're lying about the size of the machine -- but implementing cpap on an enclosed printer -- with intake coming from outside, damn it's just a machine that flsun rushed out to the market to tick checkboxes.
I wonder if this mod would affect printing other filaments like pla. I'm sure some will want to print pla and other filaments along with abs.
I'd just print PLA with the door open.
Yup, pretty much this, its not so much the air temp itself, more it moving over the surface and taking away the heat from the plastic. But ya, open the door for PLA like on any other enclosed printer and your golden
My vacuum is quieter than that!!
Will stick with my V400.
At least I can do easy filament changes.
Cheers.
It’s important to remember that dB is logarithmic. Every 3dB reduction is 1/2 as loud. 6 dB would be a quarter as loud and 9 would be an eighth.
It’s also important to remember that our perception of sound isn’t linear, our hearing perception is closer to logarithmic, or in other words linear in decibels.
Strange that this was not done from factory 🤔
Yes. Many people is wondering that. Why they do this intake from outside? Fail of comunication between metalmechanics/mecanical design people and 3D printer engineers? Who knows.
Hair cut