How to Find Angles - Trim Carpentry
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- čas přidán 2. 11. 2016
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Right on man love your attention to detail and passion. The guys I work under all hate there job and complain all day Im still super grateful for the job and to be learning. I wish I could learn from a guy like you.
Thank god another dfw video.. I love increasing my knowledge in this field
Glad I can help! Thanks for watching.
I have watched several of your videos and I just wanted to say thank you for sharing all of your tips and tricks!
Hey man i really appreciate your patience teaching us how to do things the right way. I been watching your vidz and its been a game changer with diy crown and wainscoting. U da man bruh.
Thanks for taking the time for these videos, I love seeing when you put out a new one!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Most miter saws only go up to 45 - 55°. There are two formulas.
If your angle is 90° or less then you divide that number by two.
If it's anything bigger than 90 then you subtract it from 180 and then divide it by two. For example, 123.. (180 - 123 = 57)
(57÷2= 28.5°) that would be your angle.
David Santos 👍
Thank you. God bless you and your family!
Mr Santos thank u
I've always divided by 2 (123 /2 = 61.5) and then taken that number and subtracted from 90. (90 - 61.5 = 28.5) which is the same thing just a different way of doing it.
@@MrTibbert that's how I've always done it still get the same angle.
Thanks for sharing your expertise. You produce videos the actually teach the viewer somethings.
You’re so legit bro. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Enjoy your videos and you've taught an old timer a thing or two...
Keep in mind if you have a parallelogram then the four angles add up to 360. Two adjacent angles added together is 180.
Excellent video on wainscoting! Thanks for all the helpful hints!!!
Have that same angle finder, works like a champ!
Great video!
Hi !
I’ve one of those angle finders , really good !
I didn’t really understand the acute and obtuse readings
Until today . Thanks for the info !
Love your channel 👍
Best trim videos out there. Super detailed and helpful, thank you. My cousin led me to your channel and his wainscoting project came out great.
That's so good to hear that his wainscoting came out great. That makes it all worth it. Thanks a lot.
Great video! How did you determine how high and wide your angled frames would be? Thanks for any info.
You have a great video with excellent explanations for doing things. Regarding this video, do you have a video that shows how you did the panel molding going up or down the stairs? I'm looking at doing that and would like to see a video of how it is done from your perspective. Thanks.
The two angles combined should equal 180 degrees so when you have one angle you subtract it from 180 and there's your second (overall) angle. The measurements shown here are off by about 2 degrees.
Thank you for sharing. Makes so much sense now. Very helpful.
When you're installing wainscoting on a wall that has a window or door, do you install the door/window casing onto the wainscoting or does the wainscoting meet up with the door casing? Is it ideal to have the casing on the wainscoting or on the drywall?
Great explanation, you made is simple! Congratulations on a job well done.
Do you use a pencil or knife to mark where to cut the trim?
Also how often do you check the calibration on your saw, and do you use a full kerf blade?
Been following your stuff for a while. It's great stuff. From Winnipeg, Manitoba
Just bought one of these, wish I had it years ago.
good video. where do you usually purchase moulding? what is the picture frame moulding you were using in the video? thx
Very cool. I use this same finder, but I know from more recent videos that you've used quite a few methods along the way. Which one would you recommend today?
When you paint this, does it have to be with a spray coat for both prime and paint? Or can you just do it the old fashioned way with a brush?
i always appreciate the lessons . i always thumbs up . have a good one . from Canada
Nice work. I have a question that may be off topic. You had mentioned in another video that MDF "puckers" when nailed. I have heard that there are special gun nails that will prevent this from happening? However, I have not been able to find such a product. Between the "pucker" issue and shrinking spackle, I almost always have to spackle & sand twice to get satisfactory results. Any suggestions for a more efficient method? Thanks
Great video I want to try and build under stairs storage this tool looks great
Good stuff on the angles. Now how do you determine the size of the square when you dealing with a very small section of a wall that still is big enough to require a box but not big enough to use a 4” block to measure with. Hopefully you understand the question. Do you just eye ball or is there a way to keep it all looking good but not end up with a skinny little box.
How do you figure out when to start the angels with the chair rail molding on the steps that has a few turns? I made it to the first landing but now it goes up 2 steps and turns to another lading then up to the top. I don't think mirroring the bottom molding looks right. Or should I start the shadow boxing first then working the chair rail with that ??
I love your videos and I have been following your tips but I'm confused by 1 thing - I can cut an obtuse angle in half and that works perfect but I am now doing the picture frame molding down my stairs and my top left corner angle is 47.6 degrees and my bottom left angle is 131.6 Now I can cut half the 131.6 angle to 2 - 65.8 degree cuts and that is fine. On my miter saw I can't figure out how to set the blade to cut the two 23.8 degree cuts I have to make to make my 47.6 degree angle. Can you help me. I feel dumb as I think I am missing something obvious. You guys rock! thank you
You can't use those angles directly, because you must set an angle of 0 on the saw gauge for a desired cut angle of 90. So for a desired cut angle of 52.5 degrees (the acute or upper left corner), you have to set the saw at 90 - 52.5/2 = 63.75. Most miter gauges don't go this far, so you have to use a perpendicular auxiliary fence and adjust the angle by 90 again (to 26.25). The other angle (cut to 126) must have the saw set to 90 - 126/2 = 27 (using the normal fence).
Thank you so much I was so confused. You saved me!
always great information.
thanks for taking the time to make this videos
I appreciate that man.
Hey Richard, I really enjoy your videos. As one of the person had asked how do you calculate the height and width of the boxes. The height I can see using a spacer but the width is the question.. how do you determine the width mathematically for the run?
I followed all the "instructions" and tips and after suffering through a few minor setbacks like how do I cut a skinny piece of trim at 26 degrees when my little miter saw only goes to 45, my staircase going upstairs LOOK GREAT!! Now I'm going to extend the chair rail around the upstairs hallway. I've learned through trial and error but it was worth it - novice expert now haha.. Thank You....
How did you cut below 45 degrees? I've got same problem haha
may i ask what you have the pressure on your compressor set at?
not sure if someone has mentioned this already, but your measurements were a little off, when measuring the top and the bottom angles, they have to add up to 180.
Very helpful,just what I was looking for
You don't NEED to know what the angles are in degrees, just use a set of compasses to divide the angle on the wall and set a mitre gauge to that angle to transfer to the saw.
Instant sub, love your vids, thought you were SoCal initially... anyway... why transfer lines if your using constant spacing blocks? 2 blocks set against the angle finder and the existing trim eliminates the “eyeball” factor... again keep churning the tips
thank you, needed to subscribe. tried to figure out how to cut that sharp angles on miter saw but couldn't.
Just put a block up against the ogee on both pieces, then put your angle finder up against the blocks.
Good job!
I have been doing in differently all these years.
Assuming sides are parallel to each other, top to bottom and side to side, and the first angle was 52.5 degree, then the second angle should had been 127.5 (not 126). Just an observation. Love your work and detailed explanations.
THANKS!
snakedog is right on, it's a parallelogram. So those 2 angles have to be supplementary (add up to 180 degrees)!
Geometry validation, for the win! lol
snakedog yggyyg
The assumption that the sides are parallel will often get you into trouble. In a perfect world, yes. Walls are not always plumb or flat; lines are not always parallel. They just look like they are. It could very easily be that the first angle is 52.5, second is 126, third is 52, fourth is 129.5. I ran into all kinds of problems with molding assuming that *planar* geometry would save me time. Once I started measuring everything (real-world geometry), things started fitting better. This would contradict his statement that the parallel sides are exactly similar. Maybe new construction is truer, but old houses... no way.
Yeah, that one you done even need your angle finder for, just a little math. :-)
Excelente trabajo. Felicitaciones.
You are a talented person!!! 👊
great tips . i remember from the last video u used a 4 inch spacer block , i also have that angle finder , great tool. i bought it when i bought this house and not one baseboard was good .i put all colonial in ..,not one 90 degree corner lol every one off . major pain in the ass. thanks to the angle finder , i have perfect baseboards now , 35$ well spent
Thanks. Yes, its a great tool. definitely money well spent.
Thank you! You are the best!
180-first angel 52.5= 127.5 the right second angle
Seriously, he didn’t need to measure the second one, guess he didn’t pay attention in geometry
Was actually gonna ask my Geometry students the small mistake he made. This could be a measurement error or because he got slightly off when drawing his lines. We talk about human error factor all the time. But yes he should just measure one then subtract the other from 180...maybe the first measurement is off though 🤔
@@carareynolds6981 human error, trim may not have been dead straight when installed, the mitres don't meet perfect on the older one, if he just decides the angles on theory, it may not match the previous and look "off"
Great technique~! Thanks for sharing it.
For calculating the number of panels and stiles, is it the same as a straight run.
Brilliant! Thanks so much.
i learnt a lot form this, thank you
Thanks for posting!
I'm a bit confused, do I cut the top at a different angle than the bottom? I'm getting ready to do this in my stairwell and don't want to screw up
Hello, thanks for all the support you give with your videos, I would like you to help me get the angle for the stairs from scratch because I don't know how to do it, thanks
You should do a video with that angle finder on how to find outside and inside corners of crown with it. I have the same tool and would like to see that.
How did you find the first boxes angle and also the angle of the slant for the chair rail?
Great video thanks Richard
Hey man, good stuff! I'm not sure if it's in this video but I saw you jobsite router table setup. What combo stand and deck are you using? Thanks
thanks. i will make a video on that very soon . like within the next week
Get a starett angle finder will give you single and miter cut and is super accurate with no batteries or zeroing
Great video, just Subscribed.
Good morning, the shadow boxes going up the stairs look great!! My question is, how do you determine the size and how many of the boxes in a given space?? Is there a formula that you use??
Wish you guys were in Jersey. Ha ha. Keep up the great videos. Best regards, JT from Jersey.
Sometimes there are programs online that do this. If you know the length and you know the space in between them and around about how many you want [can estimate by knowing the height] you add up all the spaces between, say 9 times 4 inches for this because you think 9 boxes will look good, so subtract 36 inches from the total. Say its 30 feet minus 3 feet is 27 feet. Each box would be 27/9 wide from tip to tip on your trim, so 3 ft boxes, prob around about 2.5 to 3 ft tall too.. make sense?
Thank you for your video. They are always very detailed and informative - you should be a teacher! One suggestion or request. If you could maybe follow up showing how to set these angles on the saw that would be great. My miter saw only has markings stops at 22.5, 30, 45 etc. with lines for each degree. I would like to see how you set the saw up to cut a 26 1/4 or 63 3/4 degree angle or other less common angles. Thanks again.
Kathi Hoffman thanks! yes that video is going to be coming very soon. there's a neat trick to cut angles bigger than the saw allows. I will get it filmed asap!
I haven't got a angle finder. Is there anyway I can do the panelling on the stairs without an angle finder? Can I just measure up from baseboard and keep it the same all the way down?
This might be a stupid question but we are trying to measure up the panelling in our hallway but the stair height measurement looks shorter then the ready, is this right? It measures the same but when we look at where the panelling will go it looks wrong
as always thanks for a great video! question: do you think it would have helped if the spacer is placed on one side of the angle finder so that you'll only have to worry about keeping the other side on the line?
CantAffordFestool good idea. I didnt think of that. I will definitely do that from now on. thanks. cool username! I can't afford festool either. haha
dfw crown i couldnt afford festool either and did it anyway
sold the 12"dewalt next day to a friend. The difference is incredible. if i had to complain sometimes i wish i could stand taller stock on it but, laying it down isnt killing me. Better dust extraction that way anyway.
Thanks for taking the time to teach what you know!
You Sir are a genius - and remind me why the comments section is just as valuable a resource as the original video.
What’s the height of your chair rail from the steps?
Can you do a baseboard video pleaseee if possible?? Just so I can see your way you go about the base installation. What do you guys charge for base just install ?
It is definitely on my list of videos to do. Hopefully I can get to it soon. Prices depend on a few things. Email me at dfwcrownmoulding@gmail.com
I'm a little confused. Shouldn't it be as simple as subtracting the first angle measurement by 180*? The angles inside the square should add to 360*
With this measurement it is off 1.5*
nice work bro
Wouldn't it be quicker to place your protractor on the existing trim and just read the angle? And if it did not exist, just measure the angle where the chair rail intersects the door trim.
Thank you for saying that, I was wondering why I was the only one thinking that, because he already knew his angles, but perhaps he did it for tutorial purposes. Problem with finding the angle where the rail intersects the door trim is that the trim might be "off", unlevel, etc. He's a good kid, bright future.
I use this angle finder every week. Good ole husky angle finder
Love your videos. May be beneficial to explain how to cut that 62 degree angle on miter saw though.
Thanks! Yes, that is coming soon. I have a really cool tip to share on that .
To cut acute angles beyond the miter saw's range: Use the detent on the miter saw to cut a precise 45 degree angle block to be used as an auxiliary fence between the machine fence and the work piece. For example, cut the end of a 12" piece of 1x4 to 45 degrees. Clamp or hold the 1x4 flat on the saw table with its long edge against the machine fence and its cut end a little bit across the saw's 90 degree cut line. With the molding pre-cut square and just a little longer than its finished length, position it with its edge against the 45 degree end of the 1x4. To cut the end of the molding at 62 degrees, set the saw to 17 degrees. The angle you cut the end of the molding will be 62. ( 45 + 17).
While holding the molding against the angled subfence, KEEP YOUR HAND AWAY FROM THE BLADE. Fastcap's "10 Million Dollar Stick" could come in handy. Otherwise, hold onto the molding at a point far enough away from the saw that the blade could not possible reach it. For longer pieces, use a roller stand to support the end of the work piece.
Thank you. I'm in the process of doing just this. My challenge is that each end will terminate with open wall. No dead ends doorways etc. I will have a vertical paint line of different colors at each end. Could I use the chair railing to frame off each end. Any response much appreciated. Thank you for the videos.
Thanks great video
Awesome vid! question: Why don't you use the inside of your angle finder rather than trying to tuck that round end in the corners?
Bryant .Collins so true. I shoulda thought of that. thanks!
I wondered the same thing. I think it would be more precise, and your pencil lines could then be shorter.
What can I do if I don’t have a miter saw and my jig only gives 3 angles? Could I cleanly freehand the cut? 😥
awesome vids man
thanks matt!
Finding Angels 👼
If you cut another block like you used to mark your angles, you could set your angle finder against both blocks and not have to eyeball your marks.
I was thinking the same thing. Or, you could just make a jig for the whole section of wall. Just connect the top spacer with the side spacer at the right angle
Can you show us how to set the saw to cut those angles, specially the bottom one at 63
Do you have a video explaining how to do the chair rail on stairs
1:19 Hey boss. Your my guy. I'm at the bottom of my staircase. Trying to wrap trim around the outside corner. 37 degrees inclined and 45 degree miter. Any suggestions how to make this cut?
3:20 - for the best reading, use the existing trim instead of drawing lines.
"Sawset Protractor" miter finder is the best.
Nice tool! Are you going to take care of that nail pop? ;-)
I find your videos very educational, and I've been doing this for 15+ years!
Thanks! Yes we punch all of the nail pops. We scan the trim for all nail pops while we are filling the holes. Thanks for the motivation! Glad to help.
Trend do an identical angle finder. Nice work
Learning lots from your videos! Now, how did you determine you needed a 4" spacer block?
What do you do if your walls are warped ?
I'm a beginner and cannot figure out how best to cut moulding where picture rail (45 degrees) meets a horizontal wall outside edge corner at bottom of stairs i.e. coming down stairs and continuing around a horizontal outside edge corner. I get that you cannot get a seamless join (I don't think) so how would you approach that? Cheers from Scotland!
Yes good question , I need to do this also , did you find out ?
@@martynbanks4690 No I just ended up putting a decorative corner stop to cover the join (I don't think it's possible to get a seemless join in this case - could be wrong though)
Thanks so much brother
Both your readings should add up to 180 before you half them or 90 after you half them. Good way of checking if you took them right.
Hey thanks appreciate this
Muchas bendiciones
This may be a silly question but I'm new to this and love your videos! (I have binge watched them all) Do you cut your own spacer block or do you buy it as is? Just wondering where to get that and it is such an important part of the process!
Also, I would love to see a video on the tools you absolutely need for moldings! I was thinking of stocking up on Black Friday!
He most likely cuts it himself. That looks like a scrap piece of baseboard he is using. I always use scrap pieces for spacers.
Kathi Hoffman that makes perfect sense! Thank you!
Homeschooling Newbie glad you like the videos. Kathi is right. it is a piece of scrap that I had in the truck. I was actually thinking of doing a video about the tools soon!
dfw crown thank you for responding! Yes a tools video would be amazing! I really trust your judgement and you're an excellent teacher! Both my husband and I are engineers so we both love how thorough and well thought out your processes are! Thanks again and I'm looking forward to that video, whenever you post it!
You are probably the best all around ,real world finish carpenter on CZcams.
Thanks!
Thank you
Once you've measured your first angle 52.5 you know that the other angle is 127.5. They add to 180. Nice angle finder, I'll get one.
Good observation!
Cheers. Thanks for your vids. It motivates me to make improvements and fixes around the house.
Rod Jackson why 180
anthony 35 parallagrams have opposite angles that add to 180degrees. Think of a rectangle has 4 sides at 90degrees. 360 degrees internal angles.
Fritz Stewart ohhhh
Sir if u start from the total of 180 degrees lest 52.5 the other angle should be 127.5 if u want to be really precise so finally u need the first angle then the second is lest 180