John Deere 350B - Final Drive Installation
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2018
- Here's how to stuff that 400 pound chunk of cast iron back where it's supposed to go!
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I made an arm extension for an engine cherry picker out of flat stock bolted into the lift where the chain hook is. I used a 1/2in piece of threaded rod bent to lineup with two top bolt holes on the final drive and attach it to the cherry picker flat arm just mentioned. The treads grip the case so it doesn't slip off. When the brake band binds, you can reach it with a flat screw driver through the drain plug on the bottom of the clutch box and line it back up. This method is way easier than shown here. I've done it this way, at least five times.
I don't want to do this job again but if I do I'll keep this in mind!
Wow great video. I'm in newington ct
Doing a steering clutch on my 350 or trying to do so. Your vids are really helping big time. Wish me luck. Thanks
good luck, glad i could help!
i know it's kind of off topic but do anyone know a good website to stream new tv shows online ?
@Steven Edison i would suggest FlixZone. You can find it by googling =)
@Jabari Callan Yea, I have been watching on flixzone for since april myself :)
@Jabari Callan Thank you, I went there and it seems like a nice service =) Appreciate it !!
on the tapered pins for the draw bar holes.. be sure to drill and tap a hole in them and put a short bolt in them so you have some way to grip them to pull them out in the future if you need to. i know you are going to do that anyway.. i was thinking you were just going to cut the threads off a 7/8 bolt so you just have the shank and hex to pound in.. i don't know how well equipped your shop is for machine tools.. you could drill and cross saw the end of the tapered pins and put a tapered bolt .. perhaps something out of a concrete anchor.. or just use a concrete anchor pull up bolt..
Good ideas! I didn't think of any of that. I will probably never need to remove the tapered pins, but i was thinking welding on a stud and using a slide hammer for removal. Might just thread them though, while it's on the lathe.
Im just working on my 350 B right now and the tapered inserts have come out on mine. Do you know if you can buy new ones ?
Why they used a bushings on draw bar I anyone's guess I've got theories .. the Bush should be pulled into the bar...the thread is unused for removal and in stall and 1/2 bolt should go all way threw the final to secure the drawbar
Nice video! You had a better go at this than I did...I was working off of a gravel surface and had to use a come-along to get mine into place. I've not read the manual about oil level, but I assume that it is filled to the same level as the plug you referenced? Is that correct? When I rebuilt mine I felt like it had been over filled in the past...possibly causing my seal to leak.
yes, that plug on the side (there is a plug on the front and rear of the final) is a fill/check plug. Only way to overfill is to park the machine at an angle and then fill it.
Ok...i checked mine for a plug and it is not there...mine is a 350 straight, so I guess there is a difference.
There has to be a fill/check plug somewhere. I have a straight 350 loader that's getting a clutch soon, so we'll see.
I did a bit more digging...found the hole we have been looking for. It's between the belly pan bolts almost directly above the drain plug for the final drive...holds 3 quarts according to the tech manual.
Bonjour
Je suis l'heureux propriétaire d'un bulldozer John deere j450b et comme sur votre vidéo concernant le barbotin, j ai fais comme vous pour remettre le barbotin après avoir changé les joints de glace mais je n'arrive pas à le remettre, quand je le pousse à sa place, j'ai les cannelure de l'embrayage qui recule en même temps, aurais tu une solution pour m'aider ,merci. Florian
Wish you y was in Georgia 😢
Is it hard to get parts for 350's? I would really like to have one if parts aren't to hard to get.
They're fairly common, modern, and still in use, so yes!
Did you have to have a jack under the frame before you removed it??
not sure if i needed it, but i did have one there.
OFF topic, but I'm trying to put new gauges in my 1969 JD 350 and the gauges either don't work or they peg out to max. Can you show a picture of the voltage regulator on your dozer and how to check it to see if it's good or bad
No idea, check the manual.
I have a JD 350B dozer. I Was using it today and went to back up and it wouldn't go in reverse, so I put it in forward and it won't go forward either. It's been running great. It has a handle on the left side for forward and reverse. Any Ideas of what could be wrong?
no fluid in the reverser.
@@themadmailler I did check the all fluids, seems to be ok. It's right between the arrows. I will add some to see if it makes a differences. This was a dozer my father had and it's been sitting for 10 years in a barn. It only steers to the left, it was always that way. It didn't jump or hesitate in anyway when it stopped working. I did push in the clutch a few times and it didn't stop. But the day it stopped clutch was working fine. Any ideas you can give me I greatly appreciated. I don't really have the money to have someone repair it.
@@vaspar9871 firstly, the "clutch" pedal is actually an inching pedal and should not be used unless you need to finesse the machine somewhere. for normal operation, just use the reverser lever. It is possible that the splined coupler between the reverser and transmission is stripped. are the nuts loose on the studs that hold those two cases together? if so, it allows the coupler to wobble and wipe out the splines.
@@themadmailler That sounds like very good advice. I will check that.
@@themadmailler So Called the local heavy equipment Mechanic, He had me start the machine and put it in gear without clutch and it will shift and doesn't grind. But when I pull the reverser lever I here the reverser try to work. So he think the same as you, the shaft between reverser and transmission is stripped. Looks like about $2000 to fix it. Guess its going to sit for a while. I think I should have rented one to do the work instead of using this old one.
Lo necesito en español
I am need of some help if you cld somehow help any at all would be great
If you removed the battery box would you then not have had to torch of that iron rail ?
as i remember, it needed to pull out farther for the shaft to be free. removing the battery box wouldn't have helped. I'm sure there's a way to do it without torching the machine apart, but that's how i did it.
OK, those pain in the ass sleeves for the draw bar arc are an idiotic attempt at combining locating dowel pins and retaining bolts that fail miserably. If you have a lathe, you could make shoulder bolts , threaded into the casting to take their place. Several of minw have bolts broken off in the pins, and because I don't use the draw bar dor anything other than dragging trees, I did not mess with them.
I've been wanting to do something like that, but never got around to it!