Totally get it....i got an 06z and I spent 7k on getting the clutch done, tq tube rebuilt, new tick master, new slave, tow hooks etc. The reason it cost 7k was because it didn't get fixed the first time and the rear end had to be taken out again. It gets better.....it's still not fixed and not normal loud sounds can be heard coming down the drive line. There's also a loud metal sound behind the front passenger floor board (maybe bad motor mount). So I'm going to take it to rpm transmission eventually to have it fixed correctly. The clutch doesn't feel exactly how it should. Having said all of that....I love the damn thing and it's my favorite car I've ever owned.
The while you’re in there got me too. Had clutch issues on my c6z and now I have a racetronix fuel pump, e85, 3.90 gears, ironmask msd and so on and so on. I have a Mighty Mouse catch can I’ll send you for free if you promise to keep making videos. I went with a vacuum pump so I no longer need it. Probably 1500 miles on it and you’ll need some new hoses but it’s free! Good to see you still posting we want to see this build end up triumphant.
Dewitts radiator with internal oil cooler takes care of oil temp issues as well. OEM 2005-2006 z51 oil cooler lines connect perfectly as they had internal coolers. Not having the oil cooler up front is a big plus for the a/c and cooling system in general. It's one less heat exchanger impeding airflow.
Man I really appreciate the time and effort you go to in order to make your videos so organized and thought out. Also being a C6 owner with plans very similar to yours, this is literally like a glimpse into my future. The technical explanations are just the cherry on top. Good Luck on the Journey.
Josh, Glad to see the progress! Keep the videos going! I actually learn things from your videos! When I look at the "while I'm in there", I like to ask the question, what will it cost me to do it later if it's needed? Also, like you, what will it cost if it fails. Ounce of prevention question. If it's easy to do while doing something else I have to do, I will likely bite the bullet. If I already had the parts out to put the heat shield in, I might go ahead and do it. I am also a chocoholic, so that would influence me. M&Ms would still melt in my center console.
Truly entertaining! Especially to a fellow C6 owner (me) that's reparing or adding something monthy and facing a lot of the same kinds of questions! Weeks after the massive job of dropping both fuel tanks and changing my fuel pump, my radiator decided it wanted to play too. So new $800 Mishimoto. Yes a significant upgrade over the plastic GM $100 thing. Can't believe it lasted 14 years! Just dropped $2k on a Corsa and brakes are on the horizon.... If I ever sell this car, the buyer will be the luckiest guy on the planet!
I appreciate your approach to building your street/track sled, and going through the upgrade list was awesome, smart reasoning and good cost/benefit process
Great video! Can't wait to show my wife this "man's " it's on sale/I need it video, ba ha ha. Don't forget to buy Trent a steak dinner, sounds like a deserving bud :-) Cheers from Canada
The C6 z06 with the z07 package had an all aluminum radiator similar to the zr1. Since you didn't buy a radiator upgrade now, you could casually be on the lookout for a wrecked z07 to get the used radiator. It would be a rare find, but worth considering!
thanks for sharing, still following! During my build, I opted to skip the clutch/torque tube rebuild/extras but I did get the expanded oil tank and catch can. Overall it saved me 5 to 6k extra for some things I just don’t need right now. Hope your car goes back together soon :)
Right on glad to see your back . Where you have a z3M and a z06 . I have a e46 m3 and a c6 z06 except I track my m3 way more since it’s cheaper to operate and I’m z06 is stock so I’m taking precautions 🫠
Niiiice! I want to own an E46 M3 at some point 😎I'm also planning once this build is done to have the Z06 be 90% street car with occasional track work.
Always happy to see another update for ol Goldie on the channel. Really glad to see you're taking some extra precautions in the build since she's getting a bit more power under the hood. Great clutch pick too btw, I think I had mentioned that one to you in a previous video as it's the one I would choose when I'm able to get my own C6Z down the line. A quick maintenance update for the trans though, be sure to drain out all the old trans fluid and re-fill with Amsoil since it has better thermal properties than OEM fluid and it's probably due for a service while you're in there doing the clutch. Looking forward to the next vid bud. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for posting Josh, I did the aviaid dry sump baffle and their trap door pan setup for my LS7 build when my motor was out. One thing I absolutely wish I did was a torque tube rebuild kit. If you haven’t put the motor in yet I would highly recommend upgrading the bushings! Keep the videos coming and I can’t wait to see you run down a GT3!
I’m 90% positive the forward coupler is in the process of failing right now. I hope yours is not but I would assume it eventually might if you push it hard on the track. When the motor is out and the exhaust is off, the labor is incredibly easier.
Another great video! Excellent choice on the clutch! Double check engine and bell housing height/clearance after installation with the new mounts. I've used 2 different aftermarket motor mounts and they both put the engine higher than stock which in turn led to other issues. Good luck with the build!
Fill with coolant and water wetter. Cold oil and high RPM is a dangerous mix because your oil pump is bypassing thick oil and starving crank/rod bearings. Rethink the oil thermostat, or block off oil cooler with cardboard on cold days. Otherwise good choices! Don’t play the $/lap time game, the answer to that argument is buying a CBR.
you should heat sleeve the clutch line while your in there, or convert it to stainless steel line with an fittings and compression fittings for the hydraulic clutch line. Will help with keeping your line from getting burned through like mine did :/
Hi Josh. Good cost vs value analysis with the engine swap on the Z06. I suggest one item to add is the Katech remote oil bleeder kit. Not expensive but helps solve getting the clutch wear material that works its way into the clutch hydraulics out of the oil. Much more difficult to install these when the engine is in the car. The list looks good with installing those items known to give value. Let us know more about the dual disk monster clutch vs stock as far as performance. I have had bad luck with aftermarket clutches vs stock so if you could describe cost/benefit here that would be good. Keep up the good work as it looks to be coming together well.
Glad to see you're making some progress! I have a couple thoughts. 1. You didn't have a remote speed bleeder for the clutch hydraulics on here, I HIGHLY recommend this because it's a huge pain to bleed it without it. I went with the Katech remote speed bleeder on my car. 2. For the oil cooler, just use some sort of blanket to wrap the oil cooler for the street and take it off for the track, a thermostat is nice but not very necessary. I used a piece of cardboard to block about 50% of my oil cooler and used large zip ties to hold it in place. It helps tremendously with getting the oil up to proper temperatures faster, and no matter how hard I've whooped on my car on the street I've never seen my oil go above 225*, and that's with 12:1 compression, headers and a large cam. Good luck! Keep chipping away at it!
While-I'm-In-There-itis got me from replacing the wheel studs to disassembling the entire suspension and sandblasting and powder coating everything in my way. bought my C6Z last year december and i'm still at it. gotta love germany and their rusty weather conditions
Lol that was my last one doing wheel studs and then I ended up doing all new SKF wheel hubs for $1200🤠🔫 lol I just couldn’t get myself to put new arp studs on stock wheel hubs and bearings then I had to replace some tie rod ends and the list goes on🤣
@@Ls3adrian i bought the non-racing SKF hubs because they are incredibly expensive here in europe. hope they hold up, i'm not trying to do any track activity, just some spirited backroads driving, and occasional autobahn traveling
We’ll see how it goes but Bobby has volunteered to help me with the next steps so hopefully before the anniversary of blowing the old motor (which is coming up fast)!
Man I can't believe you didn't replace the driveshaft coupler and bearings. Also doing engine mounts and not transe mounts will cause the torque tube to flex and possibly crack.
For your application, the clutch bleeder should also have some type of heat insulation on it since it will be A LOT easier to do now rather than replace the line. Im glad the "While Im in there" didnt get you too bad though. On my C5Z I'm currently doing the balancer and tensioner but holding off on things like rhe power steering pump, cooler, pulley etc Lets just do it a bit at a time as needed but some stuff just makes sense. I want a Kaltech bleeder to try to install on my C5Z while the clutch is still installed but thats going to still hurt my wallet a ton...
Check the sites as its not expensive and you can add it after he engine is in, but before too many miles and you burn up the remote hose. Me, I'm trying to figure out how to install with engine in car. Maybe with heads off I get to see enough to try to install it.@@JoshVanVeld
Josh, love the videos and insight you give. I have a black ‘07 Z06 and am going down the same road. My mechanic and I decided to go with the Monster SC with the lightweight flywheel. Hoping it won’t be too chattery and difficult to drive. I may have missed it, but have you considered headers?
I love these things in black, they look so sinister! I had a Monster twin disc in my C5Z (likely not the exact same clutch) and I didn't have any trouble with drivability, so I'm not too worried, but everybody's tastes are different. For now headers and exhaust will be completely stock. Same with intake and throttle body. Reliability is my top priority followed by budget (with some consideration for resale value). HP gains are way down the list, in part because it costs more and in part because you introduce more heat and other stuff starts breaking. That said, once this phase is done and the car is back on the road I wouldn't be surprised if I throw some of that logic right out the window. 😅
@@JoshVanVeld I completely agree about all the heat. I suspect once my build is complete every hose and wire will have “foil” around it 🤣 I did get the DEI tunnel kit and starter blanket/wrap. I really like their products and customer service. Looking forward to the next update! Have a great Easter weekend 👍
I thought you did good with your choices. If you add the cost of it as a stand alone project and factor in the $2500 labor in engine removal, you're actually saving money. Or that's at least how I convince myself, lol. I'm glad you're on the mend with Goldie and see some daylight. My Porsche engine out project was about a year and $30K ballooning due to lots of "while you're in there bits"
It’s a polyaspartic (I think) floor installed by a company called Granite Garage Floors. It’s not as reactive to chemicals and solvents as epoxy from what I understand. It’s held up pretty well although I tore it up a bit when I did an accidental burnout on it during my brake caliper fiasco. The only thing I would change is to not go with high contrast anti-slip flakes because when you drop a fastener it’s like camouflage - you’ll never see it again 😅
You may want to rethink the cooling we have a09 zo6 and did the the dewits radiator really didn’t make much difference till we added a set of pro speed fans expensive yes made a big difference though really helps anyway just my opinion best of luck with your build Dave
Keep an eye on your plastic end caps on the radiator! I would reconsider the heat management under the body. I plan on covering my exhaust with a direct contact insulation foil. Keep the hot stuff from melting anything, like the harness above your clutch, etc. You'd replace the clutch at 50k miles, but not the tube bushings? I hope they hold up for you, but they are accessible right now...
@@JoshVanVeld I really love your videos and style of narrations. Most people do it with the clutch change, since they already are doing the same work already.
The DEI kit doesn't work because the cats are above the center plate so the hottest air still flows above the torque tube and thus to your center console still. I've done every upgrade DEI offers save wrapping the cats and I still get enough heat to send my phone into "limp mode" if I store it in there.
Great content! Just curious, what’s your background and day job? I take it you don’t have kids with that beautiful garage with no junk or toys?! I’m jealous
Thanks! My background is in software development - video game project management 😀 Three kids - their outdoor toys live in one of the cabinets in the garage. You might be able to see some bicycles in a couple shots. By nature I don’t know that my garage would be so clean but making videos is like inviting guests over so it motivates me to tidy up before I film. Win-win because I like making videos and I like having a clean garage 😇
For the Lingenfelter oil tank, I know you need to exchange the oem core for the higher capacity tank. But wanted to know the order of the exchange, do you have to send your oem tank prior to receiving higher capacity tank? Or will they send you the higher capacity tank prior to receiving the oem tank?
1. Call their sales team before ordering (to make sure they have a welded tank in stock) 2. Place your order on the website 3. Receive shipping info from them 4. Disassemble your tank and thoroughly clean the lower portion 5. Ship your tank to the address they provide 6. As soon as they receive your tank they ship out a finished one. I think I had my new one almost exactly a week after ordering. They were very prompt with communication and shipping.
I kinda think you over did it on the crankscraper / windage tray. Radiator is easy to do later if you see a temp problem. Had temp issues on my modified base, dewitts definitely fixed it.
It would reduce my worry level by roughly 90%. Other things can go wrong but I think they’re less likely, especially if you’re not doing a bunch of aggressive mods to add power.
In hindsight, would you have been better off getting into a C7 Grand Sport with the more ubiquitous and less expensive engine? Although you'd be down 45 hp and 5 ft-lbs torque?
That's a good question. I like the C7 GS a lot and it feels a lot more modern, but it also feels quite a bit bigger and heavier than the C6Z. So my big regret is being lazy with getting the heads fixed. I'll end up spending 5-10X more to replace the motor than it would have cost me to have a good shop rework my heads.
Bunch of us here with Z06 knew about this issue and we should have pushed you to at least pull the heads and check the valve guides and exhaust valves. I had my heads off and checked and passed guide clearance measures with air gage with data. At this point I am pulling the heads this spring and sending to Katech anyway because if it does drop a valve, the block is done. At least you are getting this message out there. I am not convinced even with low valve guide wear the OEM design won't drop a valve under track use.@@JoshVanVeld
@@JoshVanVeld That's what I thought. Personally. I like to see dogs in the background of car videos. So...maybe do more of that? ;) Okay, enough of that...once again, GREAT video that spells out the right way to approach things. I think the more time goes on, the more an LS7-powered vehicle becomes like the GMC Syclone/Typhoon.... If you can afford to buy one...can you afford to KEEP one? Keep up the quality content and educational videos!
@@InJasonsGarage I’ll make a point of including more canine content! And yeah I really didn’t know what I was in for when I bought this thing but I’ve learned a ton so far and a long way to go.
Keep that intake manifold and Intake ports clean. Oil vapor takes up space in the combustion chamber, and effectively reduces your octane rating. They do more than you think...especially at sustained revs on high compression motors. I went with MightyMouse on both of my Z's. Very well made...and specifically for our cars.
@@JoshVanVeld Putting an oil catch can right away on a new motor is really beneficial you don’t want to have blowby on a new motor especially after you cleaned out your intake manifold. And prevent Crank case gases into your new motor and keeps your oil from going bad you don’t want the bad stuff like acidic stuff getting trapped in your oil and potentially going back into your oil pan and contaminating the oil even further . For a few hundred dollars it’s extra reinsurance. “Don’t you want your car to run optimal “. When you track your car if I were you, I would take the radiator fluid out of the car and replace it with distilled water and wetter also it will lower coolant temperature as well , if you should blow a coolant line to you’re not spilling or coolant on the track which is more slippery and slick. Then water That could potentially spin you out control even more so than water. Also put some better brake fluid with a higher boiling point, and replace the clutch fluid as well . I’m just talking from experience. Just don’t want to see anything bad happen to you .
@@JoshVanVeldI wouldn't say things will be as catastrophic as others suggest if you don't have one, but it is a good idea. The first time you empty it out and see what would otherwise end up on the walls of your intake manifold or be ingested by your engine you'll probably be happy you did. I would say it's less mission critical on an NA port injected engine like the LS7 bc you don't have to worry about carbon buildup on the valves like you do with direct injection during normal driving, but some LS7s have more of an issue with oil consumption than others - this tends to be magnified with track use. Normally you could look inside your manifold to get an idea of just how "oily" your particular engine is, but obviously that's kind of a moot point now that you're putting in an entirely new one. Edit: Left that comment before seeing the part in your video where you talk about having one on your C5, so you already know the deal 😉 I definitely wouldn't spend $300+ on a fancy one if you do end up deciding to get one at some point, though.
FYI: You dont need a catch can, you have a drysump sucking the pressure out. I would do the torque tube bushings, So you dont have to think about it in the near future.
That is absolutely incorrect sir. Oil vaporization still occurs in dry sump systems. A catch can is one of the best things you could do for your engine period. Do you need something expensive, no. You just need a baffled can to put inline with the pcv system so the oil vapors don't go into the intake causing a build up on the intake valves and pistons. I can't stress the importance of a catch can on any performance vehicle. You can buy one for less than $50 online. Just install with a high end PCV hose and clamp for a positive seal. It's easy easy! I drain mine every oil change and that's all.
@@JoshVanVeld I’m sorry to hear that… I’ll be buying a C6Z in the next few months and I’ll be doing the heads, headers, cam, Trunnion bearings, cold intake etc etc. People are going to want to know where I got my parts, because I’ll be declaring prices that are 80% less than what I paid. My wife will see… 😂
Yes, you're spending a lot of $$ coin to upgrade your Corvette, but that's the price we pay when we upgrade a car instead of buying someone's track car that they don't want anymore and changing it as needed. You already know that Corvette performance parts are more expensive than Japanese sports car parts like the RX-7, RX-8, or maybe even the brand new Nissan Z. Also, you wanted a GT3 killer, not an affordable sports car. 🤣🤣 Those two characteristics don't really exist in one sports car/coupe. Keep at it, if your wife complains about the costs of the performance parts, show her Porsche performance parts costs if you traded Goldie for a 997 911 Carerra S.
You're very brave to put this out there where your wife could see it
I was confident she wouldn’t watch all the way through. I was wrong 🤦
Hard to hide the cost / prices
Totally get it....i got an 06z and I spent 7k on getting the clutch done, tq tube rebuilt, new tick master, new slave, tow hooks etc. The reason it cost 7k was because it didn't get fixed the first time and the rear end had to be taken out again.
It gets better.....it's still not fixed and not normal loud sounds can be heard coming down the drive line. There's also a loud metal sound behind the front passenger floor board (maybe bad motor mount). So I'm going to take it to rpm transmission eventually to have it fixed correctly. The clutch doesn't feel exactly how it should.
Having said all of that....I love the damn thing and it's my favorite car I've ever owned.
I love this journey
its one of my favorites on CZcams.
I would have to completely agree!
@@thekingofcamo thanks dude!!
I understand this snowball effect but the cooling system upgrades is one thing I’m glad I did. But I enjoy your posts so keep going
The while you’re in there got me too. Had clutch issues on my c6z and now I have a racetronix fuel pump, e85, 3.90 gears, ironmask msd and so on and so on.
I have a Mighty Mouse catch can I’ll send you for free if you promise to keep making videos. I went with a vacuum pump so I no longer need it. Probably 1500 miles on it and you’ll need some new hoses but it’s free! Good to see you still posting we want to see this build end up triumphant.
Haha got you worse than me it sounds like! I appreciate the catch can offer, hit me up on fb or instagram! 🤜🤛
Dewitts radiator with internal oil cooler takes care of oil temp issues as well. OEM 2005-2006 z51 oil cooler lines connect perfectly as they had internal coolers.
Not having the oil cooler up front is a big plus for the a/c and cooling system in general. It's one less heat exchanger impeding airflow.
I fell deep into the “while I’m in there pit”. But she makes 608 whp (on a low reading dyno) so I’m happy I bought the good stuff.
Man I really appreciate the time and effort you go to in order to make your videos so organized and thought out. Also being a C6 owner with plans very similar to yours, this is literally like a glimpse into my future. The technical explanations are just the cherry on top. Good Luck on the Journey.
That M&M's decision was right and... hilarious. 😂
🤣
I just want to say I always get excited when I see you have posted lol.
I like your thought process…some emotion and all logic
Such quality these videos are. Really enjoy them.
Josh, Glad to see the progress! Keep the videos going! I actually learn things from your videos! When I look at the "while I'm in there", I like to ask the question, what will it cost me to do it later if it's needed? Also, like you, what will it cost if it fails. Ounce of prevention question. If it's easy to do while doing something else I have to do, I will likely bite the bullet. If I already had the parts out to put the heat shield in, I might go ahead and do it. I am also a chocoholic, so that would influence me. M&Ms would still melt in my center console.
Truly entertaining!
Especially to a fellow C6 owner (me) that's reparing or adding something monthy and facing a lot of the same kinds of questions!
Weeks after the massive job of dropping both fuel tanks and changing my fuel pump, my radiator decided it wanted to play too. So new $800 Mishimoto. Yes a significant upgrade over the plastic GM $100 thing. Can't believe it lasted 14 years!
Just dropped $2k on a Corsa and brakes are on the horizon....
If I ever sell this car, the buyer will be the luckiest guy on the planet!
🤣🤣🤣
Josh, love your videos....PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE keep them coming 👍👍👍
I did some very similar upgrades on my yellow Z06. I got the dry sump insert and oil pan baffle too because I was paranoid.
Excellent update!
I appreciate your approach to building your street/track sled, and going through the upgrade list was awesome, smart reasoning and good cost/benefit process
Great video! Can't wait to show my wife this "man's " it's on sale/I need it video, ba ha ha. Don't forget to buy Trent a steak dinner, sounds like a deserving bud :-) Cheers from Canada
Love the series
Been waiting for an update glad to see you workin!
Alright Josh. You are getting good at this video stuff. I throughly enjoyed this video.
Thanks man! Gotta get the reps in. I enjoy learning the storytelling side as much as the wrenching side.
Cant wait to watch the build to begin! Godspeed
The C6 z06 with the z07 package had an all aluminum radiator similar to the zr1. Since you didn't buy a radiator upgrade now, you could casually be on the lookout for a wrecked z07 to get the used radiator. It would be a rare find, but worth considering!
Can't wait to see your upcoming videos! I've been missing them. Great upgrades you decided on. Smart purchases.
thanks for sharing, still following! During my build, I opted to skip the clutch/torque tube rebuild/extras but I did get the expanded oil tank and catch can. Overall it saved me 5 to 6k extra for some things I just don’t need right now. Hope your car goes back together soon :)
Having friends like Trent can be expensive :). Look forward to seeing you at the track! AMP will likely file a missing persons report soon.
🤣🤣 I’ll definitely be back by Q3 2024 at the absolute latest!
Right on glad to see your back . Where you have a z3M and a z06 . I have a e46 m3 and a c6 z06 except I track my m3 way more since it’s cheaper to operate and I’m z06 is stock so I’m taking precautions 🫠
Niiiice! I want to own an E46 M3 at some point 😎I'm also planning once this build is done to have the Z06 be 90% street car with occasional track work.
I have that monster clutch on my c5 with the light flywheel and it's great, downshifts feel incredible with how free revving it is with it
Nice! I had something similar on my C5Z. I know it was a Monster Twin Disc but didn't have any other details. Looking forward to trying this one out.
Glad to see another video! Can’t wait to see you putting it back together!!! 🎉
Hoping to get started this week!
I'm gald you're getting back to work on the GT3 Killer! When/if I buy a C6-ZO6 the first thing I will do is a Valve Spring job!
Always happy to see another update for ol Goldie on the channel. Really glad to see you're taking some extra precautions in the build since she's getting a bit more power under the hood. Great clutch pick too btw, I think I had mentioned that one to you in a previous video as it's the one I would choose when I'm able to get my own C6Z down the line. A quick maintenance update for the trans though, be sure to drain out all the old trans fluid and re-fill with Amsoil since it has better thermal properties than OEM fluid and it's probably due for a service while you're in there doing the clutch.
Looking forward to the next vid bud. Thanks for posting.
Thanks Matt, appreciate the advice!
Thanks for posting Josh, I did the aviaid dry sump baffle and their trap door pan setup for my LS7 build when my motor was out. One thing I absolutely wish I did was a torque tube rebuild kit. If you haven’t put the motor in yet I would highly recommend upgrading the bushings!
Keep the videos coming and I can’t wait to see you run down a GT3!
Thanks for the perspective! What made you regret not dealing with the torque tube?
I’m 90% positive the forward coupler is in the process of failing right now. I hope yours is not but I would assume it eventually might if you push it hard on the track.
When the motor is out and the exhaust is off, the labor is incredibly easier.
Happy to see the videos back on
Thanks!
I was just wondering if you were going to post again soon haha. Stoked to see you getting back to work on Goldie!
Let’s go, Josh!!! Can’t wait to see Goldie back in action.
Looking forward to more progress
This was the last of the shopping videos! Next step: turn wrenches!
Another great video!
Excellent choice on the clutch!
Double check engine and bell housing height/clearance after installation with the new mounts. I've used 2 different aftermarket motor mounts and they both put the engine higher than stock which in turn led to other issues.
Good luck with the build!
Thanks dude. Appreciate the tip!
Your videos make me miss my Corvette😢
Fill with coolant and water wetter.
Cold oil and high RPM is a dangerous mix because your oil pump is bypassing thick oil and starving crank/rod bearings. Rethink the oil thermostat, or block off oil cooler with cardboard on cold days.
Otherwise good choices!
Don’t play the $/lap time game, the answer to that argument is buying a CBR.
you should heat sleeve the clutch line while your in there, or convert it to stainless steel line with an fittings and compression fittings for the hydraulic clutch line. Will help with keeping your line from getting burned through like mine did :/
I just got bit by the “while I’m in there” bug too. 😂
Make sure you get a remote clutch drain line added so you can easily drain that clutch fluid.
We gotta catch up so I can hear what you’ve been up to!
Hi Josh. Good cost vs value analysis with the engine swap on the Z06. I suggest one item to add is the Katech remote oil bleeder kit. Not expensive but helps solve getting the clutch wear material that works its way into the clutch hydraulics out of the oil. Much more difficult to install these when the engine is in the car. The list looks good with installing those items known to give value. Let us know more about the dual disk monster clutch vs stock as far as performance. I have had bad luck with aftermarket clutches vs stock so if you could describe cost/benefit here that would be good. Keep up the good work as it looks to be coming together well.
I spec'd the Monster clutch to include a remote speed bleeder so I should be good.
Come things are a must like clutch balancer and motor mounts unless you like taking your engine out the car regularly
Glad to see you're making some progress! I have a couple thoughts.
1. You didn't have a remote speed bleeder for the clutch hydraulics on here, I HIGHLY recommend this because it's a huge pain to bleed it without it. I went with the Katech remote speed bleeder on my car.
2. For the oil cooler, just use some sort of blanket to wrap the oil cooler for the street and take it off for the track, a thermostat is nice but not very necessary. I used a piece of cardboard to block about 50% of my oil cooler and used large zip ties to hold it in place. It helps tremendously with getting the oil up to proper temperatures faster, and no matter how hard I've whooped on my car on the street I've never seen my oil go above 225*, and that's with 12:1 compression, headers and a large cam.
Good luck! Keep chipping away at it!
Good tips! I ticked the box for the remote speed bleeder option with the Monster clutch so I’m all set there.
We need the next video of getting everything put back in!!!
Soon!
While-I'm-In-There-itis got me from replacing the wheel studs to disassembling the entire suspension and sandblasting and powder coating everything in my way.
bought my C6Z last year december and i'm still at it. gotta love germany and their rusty weather conditions
You came down with a worse case than I did! 🤣🤣🤣
Lol that was my last one doing wheel studs and then I ended up doing all new SKF wheel hubs for $1200🤠🔫 lol I just couldn’t get myself to put new arp studs on stock wheel hubs and bearings then I had to replace some tie rod ends and the list goes on🤣
@@Ls3adrian i bought the non-racing SKF hubs because they are incredibly expensive here in europe. hope they hold up, i'm not trying to do any track activity, just some spirited backroads driving, and occasional autobahn traveling
Hopefully Goldie can make it out to AMP before I can. I won't be back until next spring due to surgery!
Oh no!! That sounds like a heck of a recovery. Hang in there!
love watching these. you do a great job. also what did you use to clean your engine bay?
Thanks! Simple Green.
Love seeing the progress man! Loving the Bobby cameos 😅
You picked a trackday/deadline yet?😮
We’ll see how it goes but Bobby has volunteered to help me with the next steps so hopefully before the anniversary of blowing the old motor (which is coming up fast)!
Spend the $ on the tunnel heat shield! It will keep your gear shift cables from melting.
Man I can't believe you didn't replace the driveshaft coupler and bearings.
Also doing engine mounts and not transe mounts will cause the torque tube to flex and possibly crack.
For your application, the clutch bleeder should also have some type of heat insulation on it since it will be A LOT easier to do now rather than replace the line.
Im glad the "While Im in there" didnt get you too bad though.
On my C5Z I'm currently doing the balancer and tensioner but holding off on things like rhe power steering pump, cooler, pulley etc
Lets just do it a bit at a time as needed but some stuff just makes sense.
I want a Kaltech bleeder to try to install on my C5Z while the clutch is still installed but thats going to still hurt my wallet a ton...
It's tough finding the right balance with this stuff! The clutch bleeder does appear to be insulated.
Check the sites as its not expensive and you can add it after he engine is in, but before too many miles and you burn up the remote hose. Me, I'm trying to figure out how to install with engine in car. Maybe with heads off I get to see enough to try to install it.@@JoshVanVeld
Josh, love the videos and insight you give. I have a black ‘07 Z06 and am going down the same road.
My mechanic and I decided to go with the Monster SC with the lightweight flywheel. Hoping it won’t be too chattery and difficult to drive.
I may have missed it, but have you considered headers?
I love these things in black, they look so sinister! I had a Monster twin disc in my C5Z (likely not the exact same clutch) and I didn't have any trouble with drivability, so I'm not too worried, but everybody's tastes are different.
For now headers and exhaust will be completely stock. Same with intake and throttle body. Reliability is my top priority followed by budget (with some consideration for resale value). HP gains are way down the list, in part because it costs more and in part because you introduce more heat and other stuff starts breaking.
That said, once this phase is done and the car is back on the road I wouldn't be surprised if I throw some of that logic right out the window. 😅
@@JoshVanVeld
I completely agree about all the heat. I suspect once my build is complete every hose and wire will have “foil” around it 🤣
I did get the DEI tunnel kit and starter blanket/wrap. I really like their products and customer service.
Looking forward to the next update! Have a great Easter weekend 👍
I thought you did good with your choices. If you add the cost of it as a stand alone project and factor in the $2500 labor in engine removal, you're actually saving money. Or that's at least how I convince myself, lol. I'm glad you're on the mend with Goldie and see some daylight. My Porsche engine out project was about a year and $30K ballooning due to lots of "while you're in there bits"
I like the way you do math! Now I want to hear more about your Porsche project 👀
Heads up about compressing those oily rags in your bin, could cause a fire. Google oily rag fires. Great video!
Good looking out, thanks!!
Love your videos. I have an off topic question. Talk to me about your garage floor!
It’s a polyaspartic (I think) floor installed by a company called Granite Garage Floors. It’s not as reactive to chemicals and solvents as epoxy from what I understand. It’s held up pretty well although I tore it up a bit when I did an accidental burnout on it during my brake caliper fiasco. The only thing I would change is to not go with high contrast anti-slip flakes because when you drop a fastener it’s like camouflage - you’ll never see it again 😅
You may want to rethink the cooling we have a09 zo6 and did the the dewits radiator really didn’t make much difference till we added a set of pro speed fans expensive yes made a big difference though really helps anyway just my opinion best of luck with your build Dave
Thanks for the tip Dave!
Keep an eye on your plastic end caps on the radiator!
I would reconsider the heat management under the body. I plan on covering my exhaust with a direct contact insulation foil. Keep the hot stuff from melting anything, like the harness above your clutch, etc.
You'd replace the clutch at 50k miles, but not the tube bushings? I hope they hold up for you, but they are accessible right now...
Consistently getting feedback that I made the wrong call on the torque tube bushings. Might need to cough up the additional money.
@@JoshVanVeld I really love your videos and style of narrations. Most people do it with the clutch change, since they already are doing the same work already.
What brand storage cabinets are in your garage? They look great
They are Newage I believe. Ordered through Costco.
"Oar-e-gone" 😂
I would upgrade the radiator. Check out mishimoto. All aluminum and almost 50 percent higher cooling volume. Cheaper than dewitt
As someone in the comments spending your money, I would have upgraded everything if I were you.
🤣🤣🤣
@@JoshVanVeld Funny!
This is why I always tell people get an SS 1le with a warranty or an ls3 grand sport if you want to track a car and not just spend endless money
The DEI kit doesn't work because the cats are above the center plate so the hottest air still flows above the torque tube and thus to your center console still. I've done every upgrade DEI offers save wrapping the cats and I still get enough heat to send my phone into "limp mode" if I store it in there.
Good to know! Yeah I experienced that once with my phone and learned not to keep it there.
Don't forget your rear main seal!
Got it! 👍
Great content! Just curious, what’s your background and day job? I take it you don’t have kids with that beautiful garage with no junk or toys?! I’m jealous
Thanks! My background is in software development - video game project management 😀
Three kids - their outdoor toys live in one of the cabinets in the garage. You might be able to see some bicycles in a couple shots.
By nature I don’t know that my garage would be so clean but making videos is like inviting guests over so it motivates me to tidy up before I film. Win-win because I like making videos and I like having a clean garage 😇
For the Lingenfelter oil tank, I know you need to exchange the oem core for the higher capacity tank. But wanted to know the order of the exchange, do you have to send your oem tank prior to receiving higher capacity tank? Or will they send you the higher capacity tank prior to receiving the oem tank?
1. Call their sales team before ordering (to make sure they have a welded tank in stock)
2. Place your order on the website
3. Receive shipping info from them
4. Disassemble your tank and thoroughly clean the lower portion
5. Ship your tank to the address they provide
6. As soon as they receive your tank they ship out a finished one.
I think I had my new one almost exactly a week after ordering. They were very prompt with communication and shipping.
thank you so much!@@JoshVanVeld
What's the name of the alternator rebuild shop? I'm north of the perimeter
C & S Auto Electric in Mableton
I kinda think you over did it on the crankscraper / windage tray. Radiator is easy to do later if you see a temp problem. Had temp issues on my modified base, dewitts definitely fixed it.
It wasn’t until I made the video about it that I noticed the pattern of spending more than I had to on stuff Trent recommended 😅
Do a clutch bleed line if you don't have one already.
It is included with the clutch kit I purchased.
So it is possible to drive a C6 Z06 worry free, if you replace the original heads?
It would reduce my worry level by roughly 90%. Other things can go wrong but I think they’re less likely, especially if you’re not doing a bunch of aggressive mods to add power.
In hindsight, would you have been better off getting into a C7 Grand Sport with the more ubiquitous and less expensive engine? Although you'd be down 45 hp and 5 ft-lbs torque?
That's a good question. I like the C7 GS a lot and it feels a lot more modern, but it also feels quite a bit bigger and heavier than the C6Z.
So my big regret is being lazy with getting the heads fixed. I'll end up spending 5-10X more to replace the motor than it would have cost me to have a good shop rework my heads.
Bunch of us here with Z06 knew about this issue and we should have pushed you to at least pull the heads and check the valve guides and exhaust valves. I had my heads off and checked and passed guide clearance measures with air gage with data. At this point I am pulling the heads this spring and sending to Katech anyway because if it does drop a valve, the block is done. At least you are getting this message out there. I am not convinced even with low valve guide wear the OEM design won't drop a valve under track use.@@JoshVanVeld
Wait...didn't you have a dog in the background of previous videos? Or did I get your channel mixed up with another one?
We get a lot of dogs through these parts. We’ve got two and we fostered 6 or 7 rescues in the last year.
@@JoshVanVeld That's what I thought. Personally. I like to see dogs in the background of car videos. So...maybe do more of that? ;)
Okay, enough of that...once again, GREAT video that spells out the right way to approach things. I think the more time goes on, the more an LS7-powered vehicle becomes like the GMC Syclone/Typhoon.... If you can afford to buy one...can you afford to KEEP one?
Keep up the quality content and educational videos!
@@InJasonsGarage I’ll make a point of including more canine content! And yeah I really didn’t know what I was in for when I bought this thing but I’ve learned a ton so far and a long way to go.
Please please consider putting a oil catch can
Why do you think it’s important to do it right away?
Keep that intake manifold and Intake ports clean. Oil vapor takes up space in the combustion chamber, and effectively reduces your octane rating. They do more than you think...especially at sustained revs on high compression motors. I went with MightyMouse on both of my Z's. Very well made...and specifically for our cars.
@@JoshVanVeld Putting an oil catch can right away on a new motor is really beneficial you don’t want to have blowby on a new motor especially after you cleaned out your intake manifold. And prevent Crank case gases into your new motor and keeps your oil from going bad you don’t want the bad stuff like acidic stuff getting trapped in your oil and potentially going back into your oil pan and contaminating the oil even further . For a few hundred dollars it’s extra reinsurance. “Don’t you want your car to run optimal “. When you track your car if I were you, I would take the radiator fluid out of the car and replace it with distilled water and wetter also it will lower coolant temperature as well , if you should blow a coolant line to you’re not spilling or coolant on the track which is more slippery and slick. Then water That could potentially spin you out control even more so than water. Also put some better brake fluid with a higher boiling point, and replace the clutch fluid as well . I’m just talking from experience. Just don’t want to see anything bad happen to you .
@@JoshVanVeldI wouldn't say things will be as catastrophic as others suggest if you don't have one, but it is a good idea. The first time you empty it out and see what would otherwise end up on the walls of your intake manifold or be ingested by your engine you'll probably be happy you did. I would say it's less mission critical on an NA port injected engine like the LS7 bc you don't have to worry about carbon buildup on the valves like you do with direct injection during normal driving, but some LS7s have more of an issue with oil consumption than others - this tends to be magnified with track use. Normally you could look inside your manifold to get an idea of just how "oily" your particular engine is, but obviously that's kind of a moot point now that you're putting in an entirely new one.
Edit: Left that comment before seeing the part in your video where you talk about having one on your C5, so you already know the deal 😉 I definitely wouldn't spend $300+ on a fancy one if you do end up deciding to get one at some point, though.
Oh, do put in a 160f thermostat, that’s cheap.
What about the cost of pos Mazda Miata does Corvette Nirvana have to do with?😅😅
It’s like on the Top Gear road trips when they’d have a backup car following them around lurking in the background whenever they broke down 🤣
@@JoshVanVeld love the car and channel. Keep em coming
Dewitt’s my z06 runs 20 degrees cooler !
Mechman Alternator.
FYI: You dont need a catch can, you have a drysump sucking the pressure out.
I would do the torque tube bushings, So you dont have to think about it in the near future.
I’ve still got a lot to learn obviously Thanks for the tip 🤜🤛!
That is 100% not true..
@@ryanbrown918 👀
Dry sump oil system gets you away from needing a catch can. I agree with skipping it for this build
I did not know that. Thanks!
That is absolutely incorrect sir.
Oil vaporization still occurs in dry sump systems. A catch can is one of the best things you could do for your engine period.
Do you need something expensive, no. You just need a baffled can to put inline with the pcv system so the oil vapors don't go into the intake causing a build up on the intake valves and pistons.
I can't stress the importance of a catch can on any performance vehicle. You can buy one for less than $50 online. Just install with a high end PCV hose and clamp for a positive seal. It's easy easy!
I drain mine every oil change and that's all.
You are highly misinformed on the subject...
@@srmurc6zo6Glad someone knows a thing or two 👍
@@ryanbrown918
Please explain why an Ls7 has a PCV system.
I hope your wife never sees this video with those prices… 😂 I always tell mine they were half the price of what they actually cost.
Sadly it seems I did too good of a job with my editing and managed to hold her attention all the way until the end 😬
@@JoshVanVeld I’m sorry to hear that…
I’ll be buying a C6Z in the next few months and I’ll be doing the heads, headers, cam, Trunnion bearings, cold intake etc etc.
People are going to want to know where I got my parts, because I’ll be declaring prices that are 80% less than what I paid. My wife will see… 😂
@@JoshVanVeld All you have to do is buy her the equivalent $$ amount of whatever she wants.
Pays off the guilt immediately.
@@robmccance The problem is I already do that. At this rate I’ll be bankrupt in six months!
Yes, you're spending a lot of $$ coin to upgrade your Corvette, but that's the price we pay when we upgrade a car instead of buying someone's track car that they don't want anymore and changing it as needed. You already know that Corvette performance parts are more expensive than Japanese sports car parts like the RX-7, RX-8, or maybe even the brand new Nissan Z. Also, you wanted a GT3 killer, not an affordable sports car. 🤣🤣 Those two characteristics don't really exist in one sports car/coupe. Keep at it, if your wife complains about the costs of the performance parts, show her Porsche performance parts costs if you traded Goldie for a 997 911 Carerra S.