Warlord Games Epic Battles Waterloo - French Infantry in Greatcoat & Command Painting Tutorial
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- čas přidán 3. 05. 2022
- Warlord Games Epic Battles Waterloo - French Infantry in Greatcoat & Command Painting Tutorial
#warlordgames #warlordgamesepicbattleswaterloo #epicbattleswaterlooreview #epicbattlesnapoleonic #warlordgamesepicbattlesthewaterloocampaign #epicbattleswaterloo #warlordgamesepicbattlesnapoleonics #warlordgamesepicbattles #warlordgamesblackpowder #napoleonicwargaming #15mmnapoleonics #paintingwarlord #paintingwarlordgames #Napoleonicwars #paintingtutorial
Paint list (for Battle dress and Greatcoat French Line/Light):
Black prime (any black primer)
Zenithal highlight with white using an airbrush (Any white)
Drybrush white (Any white)
*Alternative for non airbrush users: Prime in grey, drybrush white.
Contrast Blood Angels Red
Citadel Evil Sunz Scarlet
Contrast Basilicanum Grey
Contrast Black Templar
Army Painter Speedpaint Cloudburst Blue
Army Painter Speedpaint Highlord blue
Vallejo Model Colour Dark Prussian Blue
Vallejo Model Colour Royal Blue
Scalecolour Fantasy Games Arianrhod Blue SCH-29
Contrast Apothecary White
Contrast Skeleton Horde
Contrast Dark Angels Green
Contrast Iyanden Yellow
Contrast Wyldwood
Contrast Gore-Grunta Fur
Contrast Gulliman Flesh
Citadel Phalanx Yellow
Citadel Grey Seer
Citadel Evil Sunz Scarlet
Army Painter Greenskin
Vallejo Noctura Fairy Flesh 74.007
Scalecolour/Scale 75 Black Metal SC-63
Scalecolour/Scale 75 Elven Gold SC-74
Vallejo Game Air Silver 72.752
Vallejo Model Colour Off-White 70.820
Miniature Realms social media:
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Instagram: @MiniatureRealms
Twitter: @MiniatureRealms
Email: miniaturerealmsstudio@gmail.com
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Useful links:
Waterloo uniforms - centjours.mont-saint-jean.com
Epic Waterloo FB group - groups/84166...
If you’re a fan of Lord of the Rings please check out my podcast based on Games Workshops Middle Earth Strategy Battle Game.
Out of the Frying Pan Podcast:
Find 'Out of the Frying Pan Podcast' on:
Like our FB page ( / ootfppodcast )
Join our FB group ( groups/55219...)
Follow us on Instagram (@ootfppodcast) & Twitter (@ootfp)
Email us at (OOTFPPodcast@gmail.com)
CZcams / @outofthefryingpan7393
Find the show at:
iTunes podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast...
Podbean (ootfppodcast.podbean.com)
RSS www.podbean.com/site/podcatch...
skeleton horde is a life saver
Yes it’s excellent
Good job, thanks, enjoyed.
Thank you Norm 🙂
Thank you for another tutorial.
I always enjoy you videos.
The "choker" is called a gorget. It is the last remnant of medieval armor.
One other note, the normal color for French Napoleonic drummers is imperial green, with yellow and red lace. The reason for the drummers in blue during the Waterloo campaign was that many were still in wearing royalist drummer colors reinstituted by Louis XVIII.
Thank you and thank you. Gorget, of course I remember now, I had not idea about the drummers though - think I will probably do a mix now that I know that, as I’ll be playing some Peninsular games as well.
@@MiniatureRealms
Look at the 17th line, which is also in the same division as the 19th. It has the green coat. Next to the drummer it will show the lace, and it is described as livre d'Empereur. Look at the lace for the 19th, it is described as livre du Roi.
Oh yes, thank you, that’s something I will remember now.
Wow, didn't know that...awesome piece of info...
Fabulous end result. Well done.
Thank you 😊
Happy days, Great painting 👍👍
Thank you 😊
Always enjoy your videos Stuart, and I have recently tried different styles of priming my 28mm figs and found your style works really well. Thanks for the tip. An I'll see you at the weekend at CC2
Thank you 😊 I’ll be interested to hear how you’ve been getting on with the priming and how you’ve found it, see you at CC2 🙂
Gonna be painting them shortly according to your guides, cant wait! Keep up great work :)
Would be nice to get paint list in descriptions/on some slide in video, lil feedback :) again, thank you!
Thank you 😊
There’s a paint list in the video description, it covers both regular and greatcoats.
Magnifique 🤩 👍
Thank you 😊
Just watching again for tips and tricks and just wondered if you were getting hungry at 28:14 ? 😂
😂 The perils of having a lapel mic close to the top of your stomach
Lovely stuff, followed your other French video on my first unit! Really works well, I just need to maybe give it more of a dry brush of white at the start for myself. So another test today! 😊
Thank you, glad you’ve been finding the videos useful, hope the next test goes well.
Great video. Put mine to shame 😂
Thank you Michael, don’t be so harsh on yourself, yours are great and you’re new to painting as well. You’ve also painted way more of yours than I have mine 😂
Pack were cow hide. Some people paint them like Zulu shields but I use a brown colour.
I thought it was cow hide, wasn’t 100% sure though.
Another great video. I really like the Scale Colour golds you use, gold has always been a dodgy colour for me so I picked up the SC you use. Vallejo Gold is OK if you can stop it separating but it's a pig to mix back again when it has. The Citadel ones I find too variable. I do like the Game Air Bright Brass as a highlight for canons though. Also plan to try the Mud Texture you use too thought that will get more use on the WW2 stuff. My Epic all still on hold pending me doing the WW2 stuff, merely on the basis that I should be able to get the WW2 stuff done and out the way much faster. I also bought the Model Colour Royal Blue you used as the highlight for the French infantry. I'll give that a try along with Game Colour Imperial Blue and Model Colour Deep Blue, see which I prefer.
Thank you.
I love Scale 75 metallics, I think Black Metal, Decayed Metal and Necro Gold form the base for nearly every Gold, Silver and Bronze I paint. Totally agree on the others, some good ones, but nothing I can trust the same way.
Lovely painting as always, I’m having some success using contrast paints over the zenithal highlights and dry brushing, however I’m struggling with the final white highlights on the straps front and back. I suppose practice, practice and more practice and I’ll get there. Really appreciate your tutorials, they really help. Thanks for posting and I can’t wait for the cavalry posts. 👍
Thank you 😊
Which white are you using? It’s definitely the trickiest part in any ways, and some whites are hard to get a good smooth coat with, making it even harder.
I’m using Vallejo model colour off white but it’s a couple of years old, probably about Five to be honest and past it’s best, I’ve got a new one coming in the post so that should help.
I usually find that white one of the best, thins down well for a reasonably smooth coat. But it might be the age of it like you said, and white is never easy.
Go to spotlight or where they sell decent art supplies and grab a jar of Acrylic medium /decant into dropper bottle /add a drop to each drop of Vallejo you squeeze out/mix it in .Makes it creamier to paint with
@@Rusty_Gold85 Many thanks for the tip, I will give it a try.
Hi Stuart another great tutorial your certainly saving me a lot of time wondering what to do and where, got 4 French battalions 8 skirmishing bases & 1 battery artillery +command stand done but got distracted by kings of war orc army for club games,can recommend atlas game store in the docks very welcoming and stocks
Thank you Graham. That’s still way more than I’ve got finished, going to be the long haul for me 😂. I’ve heard about Atlas, will have to pop down and check it out.
This looks great! This means I’ll be painting all the armies. Perhaps the French divided into companies and the Brits by divisions
(2 coys.) the Prussians by platoons (half companies) I’ll read David Nash’s book on the Prussian Army.
I’ll have to check out that book.
Love your videos! I have gone wild into both ACW and Waterloo and your tutorials are brilliant! Could you make a tutorial on your process for splitting the strip? Or point me in the direction of a video if I missed it? Sometimes I get lost in executing what you are demonstrating and it might have slipped by me! keep up the amazing work!
Thank you Travis, that’s really kind, so glad you’re enjoying the videos and finding them useful 😊
I’ve not shown splitting a strip on a video, I’ve only done it a couple of times as it’s not something I plan (so far) to do much in my armies. There are quite a few people who are doing it with all their strips, and they may be better placed to give you good advice. The way I did it worked, but I still think it works on some strips better than others. The different sculpts mean that some men are much closer sculpted than others, so more tidying up and potentially resculpting may be required. Here’s what I did:
Using a scalpel/hobby knife, cut at the base of the miniatures (the small pudding base that attaches to the larger one). Then holding the the strip in both hands gently bend it backwards and forwards until it splits at the join on the arms. You could cut this as well, but for some reason the former method seems to work nicely. Then file/smooth/tidy up the broken edges. I didn’t greenstuff on the command strip, it wasn’t too bad as both ‘broken/cut’ edges were facing inwards.
I’m not sure if you use Facebook, but the Warlord Games Epic Battles Napoleonic group that I set up has loads of people who are doing this and can offer advice. There’s a link in the video description after all my own social media stuff, I can’t link it here I’m afraid as CZcams tends to auto delete any comments with links.
@@MiniatureRealms Thanks for your reply! I did a test one yesterday using a dental pick I had with a roughly 5mil blade. I did as you said clipping the base first and then I gently pried the joint between the shoulders with the dental pick. It worked pretty well. I had to heavily modify the base but that's going to get covered by the earth texture anyway. was able to just get away with plastic glue to rebuild the join. I am using the French greatcoat guys to be regulars/conscripts and the habite gents to be veterans/elites/Nassau troops. That way there is some visual reference to differentiate the two.
Thinking about the same for ACW, with Confederates you can up the proportion of brown hues to grey to indicate less well supplied troops or even more hats to kepis. Kind of have to get creative with the Union since they are relatively uniform.
But like I said, really enjoy the tutorials, I basically follow your system with a bit of tweaking to optimize churning them out (I use speed paints on the large surface areas and then use regular paints for the straps, shoes, hair to allow me to get mildly sloppy with some of the bigger surface areas. Tried the zenethil in the past and never could make a go of it, but with the speed paints it seems much more worth the effort!
I always like to get detail showing on back packs, turn backs and all the bits that can be seen from the back, because hopefully that is the only part of my army that I can see.🙂
😂 Absolutely
Hi there, always appreciate your painting guides! Could you tell me, where do purchase the handle tool you use while painting and what is it called?
It’s from a company called Redgrass Games, they make a whole range of things including wet palettes and brushes. I grabbed mine from my local hobby store, and I’ve seen them at most of the stores that have a large range that I’ve been to. Definitely available from Amazon, I’ve bought extra ‘caps and putty’ (the bit the model fits on to that turns) from there.
Would you consider doing a video on splitting the command stand and grey coat stand, I’d also like my command stand to match the rest of the unit
I’ll try and remember to add it to the next vlog or put up a short video. I’m sure someone else has done one though, maybe it was Leon T66 on one of his earlier Epic Naps videos.
Good afternoon.
I follow all your tutorials in this series. Congratulations. You do an excellent job. I am very interested to see how you do the priming, do you prime everything black first and then white, what technique do you use, airbrush, spray, what paints have you used, do you also use dry brush? The result really makes the subsequent work much easier. I would be very grateful for your answer. Best regards from Spain.👌
Hi Luis, thank you for your kind words, glad you’re enjoying the tutorials and finding them useful.
So to achieve the zenithal pre-shade/highlight I start by priming black (I use an airbrush for this on these models), I then airbrush white in thin layers, predominately at an angle from the top down, leaving some shadow from the back. For this scale I then drybrush white to finish, making sure I catch the details as this really helps with the contrast/speedpaint layers afterwards. I included this in the first tutorial I did for this range, you can find it here: czcams.com/video/Phudv0_HCZ8/video.html
@@MiniatureRealms Thank you very much. I look forward to your next video. Best regards.
NAZDRAG on the flag... Thank you!
🙂
Thanks for the tutorial, id had fun with a sprue before this (inspired by the british tutorial you did) and i ended up painting them a mix of light and line.
how did you cut the sprues apart was that a scalpel cut or a wire saw?
Do you prime the black with airbrush or rattle can? my attempts with a can ended up being either powdery or the details flooded so i switched to airbrush but it just doesn't adhere well and rubs off reasonably easily.
Thank you.
I just used a scalpel blade to cut the base of the strip, then gently teased the models apart bending backwards and forwards, then a quick tidy up with a file.
I use the airbrush to prime black, Vallejo black primer, not had any issues with it not adhering or rubbing off plastics. Which brand are you using?
@@MiniatureRealms its the same one, vallejo acrylic primer, probably down to user error tbh.
For your white zenithal is that also vallejo white primer? Ive been using golden titanium white but its a true white so the drybrushing is less effective on the top surfaces
I find the black primer works best with a tiny drop of water and a tiny drop of flow aid, probably 10/10/80 (water/flow improver/primer). Then slowly build up in a thin coat, returning to touch up, it’s definitely slower than rattle can priming.
I use Vallejo Game Air & Model Air white through the airbrush for the zenithal stage, then drybrush Vallejo model colour off white afterwards.
@@MiniatureRealms thats great thankyou, i shall in est in some vallejo whites then. I had such terrible experience with citadel and army painter whites that when i found one that worked i stuck with it.
Much appreciated
I’m sorry if this seems unrelated, but what is the music you used at 8:34
It would have been stock music at the time provided with the Final Cut Pro X editing software for Mac. I’ve just checked and it’s not available anymore to check the name, I also slowed it down by 50% in this video, so it’s quite different from the original.
@@MiniatureRealms ok, thank you
I really wanted to like the Army Painter speed paints and try to blast through the French army box, but I'm really disappointed with them. Just too unwieldy and the white undercoat bleeds through too much on the miniatures. I'm gonna have to stick to traditional Vallejo and Citadel acrylics for them.
They may not be for you, that style of painting definitely doesn’t suit everyone. By design the undercoat is supposed to show through really, it’s supposed to provide highlights and shadow in one coat (unless you mean it’s mixing with your undercoat to produce another colour, it’s not supposed to do that).
@@MiniatureRealms yeah there's no bleeding, it's just the white primer coat is just too bright for the uniform color layers going over it. I wanted to take a stab at speed painting with contrasts but I think with my OCD over good quality I'm gonna have to stick with acrylics. Still love your videos and tutorials though and will keep watching.
Thank you, that’s very kind.