Setting the End Play and PackingThe Bearings On The New Wheel
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- Whether it's a complete factory built wheel or one we just built, wheel bearings must be properly spaced and packed with grease. Unless, of course, they are modern "sealed" wheel bearings.
Mike. I had to replace races today and have never set up end play before. I knew I could dig back in your videos and find something. You just helped me out big time with the wheel in the vise trick. Thank you sir!
Glad to help. That's great.
👍🙂
Nothing like having the tools to make life easier! I didn't realize how many specialty tools a guy needs to work on a bike, I'm a union millwright and thought I was set up pretty good but quickly learned I wasn't. Thank God for Jim's! Good vid, keep'em coming!
Thank You. I would like to have apprenticed to be a millwright. Good stuff.
During my apprenticeship I used a homemade bearing packer that was made from two enormous brake rotors. All the holes were plugged off, it was the best bearing packer I’ve ever used. Another great way to pack a bearing is a syringe that my mom whom is a nurse got for me. I don’t remember the size in CC’s but they’re normally used to administer liquid tube feedings thru a PEG tube in a hospital patient. I used one to squirt grease in bearings and every other manner in which you’d need to be precise with grease.
Very cool. Thank You.
Your knowledge is beyond my conception I couldn’t harbor all of it in my head keep up the good work Mr. Mike thank you
Thank you. It's just time in. I try to share what I know and admit what I don't know. The learning never stops.
instaBlaster.
Pretty sure I have learned more from you in the last 6 months than from anybody else on the planet, Mike. Thanks again.
Thank You
@@pacificmike9501 Just curious: is that Lucas Red "N" Tacky Grease you're using there? (And would you recommend that grease for bearings?) I'm finally ready to do mine! Thanks Mike.
Hello MIKE,
I recently found myself with some "CREDIT" at my local ... AUTOZONE ... auto-parts store
and as I wandered the AISLES to see what I "really needed" ... to DEPLETE this WindFall ...
my eyes fell on a BEARING-PACKER ... very similar to yours.
Thank you, in advance, for showing me the proper way to actually use it !
( I was always a DOLLOP of Grease in the PALM of my HAND type of guy ... prior to this )
COOP
................................................
Yah, they're great. Force in the new grease while forcing out the old grease.
i have worked in automotive for over 30 years, those bearing packers work great, just use the floor and some pressure from the heel of your boot ...3 seconds your done
(for those who don`t have a press) ..
my wheel bearing grease packer is well used and it is over 30 yrs old --with boot use only LOL..
Your vids are well made and enjoyable to watch...
That's great. Thank you.
👍🙂
Great point Mike; using new grease to push out the old stuff.
Years ago, Used to check out a new or old bearing by cleaning them in petrol, then with just a drip of oil on them,
I would hold the bearing between my thumb & fore finger & use the air line to spin it up to; well lots of rpm.
This tells you how smooth or how rough the bearings are. Yes of course, you cannot do this with tapered or Tompkins bearings!
Old British bikes often had fixed ball-race bearings on there wheels. Again, Thanks for this valuable info on wheels.
Thank You. I thoroughly enjoy different views and methods. And, I love the British bikes too, new and old.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank's for getting back to me, so you like British Bikes as well. Last night I watched on a program called "Banger's & Cash" on U-tube.
A very rare Matchless 1000cc V-Twin flat-head, 4-speed box, girder forks in black. I think it was a 1948 model, fully restored. Price: £48,000!
Banger's & Cash, is worth watching as the owner is like us, he really loves all things made well, & i believe he sees us as custodians, rather than owners.
He is one of the top Auctioneers of old Cars, Vans, Bikes you name it!
If you have not stumbled across this on U-tube, I hope you enjoy.
I get it. Watching you master those wheels makes me happy as well.
Cool. Thank You.
If you look at bottom of bearing packer you'll see 2 groves in most that line up with vise jaws to clamp down in bearing packer if you don't have an arbor press.
Thanks Mike nice relaxing vid ....👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the tip!
I just happened to find your you tube channel Mike about two weeks ago. I also repair/restore the old classics and with my harem of 7 I have one for each day of the week. You do us ole codgers proud Mike! I would not have the patients to video and especially describe what and how I was doing. Keep up the great work for the next generation. Next resto project: 1973 FLH
Cool. Thank You.
hey thanks .i love learning something new ,i been round a bit ,first bearing packer i ever did see . musta packed a 1000 different bearings ,some on tanks ,howitzers ,motorcycles trucks ,cars ,how did i live to be this age & never knew one existed .love the thing tho .
Thanks for watching! My old man took so much pride in servicing cars. He really made them nice. That was something he showed me.
the right tool for the job.....and that arbor press makes it perfect....what a beauty
Thank You.
Always happy to listen and learn and you do bring back good memories. Very glad you are still smiling, and kudos to Mike!
Thank You.
👍
Yet another invaluable lesson in motorcycle knowledge. I remember my father packing bearings in a similar manner with a makeshift packer. It always amazes me how basic and simple a concept can be so useful and uncomplicated for a precision job as this. I learn something every time I watch your videos. Thank you for reminding me of the joy my father gained with mechanical work. Definitely a trip through time for me.
That's great. Thank You.
Excellent video. As usual. I just put new bearings and seals in my rear wheel. I haven’t put it on yet and am glad I saw this video first. You may have saved me a lot of trouble. Thanks!
Cool. Be careful to not overlook the "endplay." No room for error here.
The wheel turned out nice, and instructional videos are always cool.
Glad you like them!
Always good to see you patiently work on something and there’s so much to be learned
I appreciate that! It goes on forever, you know.
Real plessure to watch. Learned a lot of watching to spoke a rim. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
That's got to be the cleanest bearing packer I've ever seen in use. Love the arbor press. Most the time I turn it on end and use the bench vise. Another great video bud. Stay safe
Thank You. And, you too.
Thanks Mike. They say you learn something new every day and today is no exception.. I have never seen a bearing packer. Great content and a thumbs up for Mike the camera man 👍
Thank You.
👍
Thanks Mike for this video ! I am in the process of going over my (new to me) 81 FXB and noticed I could move the back wheel sideways just a fraction. I thought I needed new bearings but looking at this video showed me how the construction works and they are supposed to have a little end play.
That is correct. Check the wheel for "endplay" in the bearings. Make sure you have the right amount of "preload" on the bearings, and proper endplay. The wheel will have to be taken off to check this properly.
THANK YOU...for sharing. I watched and as always very much enjoyed. My two favorite Mike's on CZcams.
Thank You.
👍
Hello Mike it´s really nice to see you! I just pass over here to say that I really understand your happiness due we "share the same poison"! It´s always nice to see how you love and enjoy your work! God bless you Mike and keep on rolling! Best regards from Mexico, Paco.
Wow. Thank You and take care.
I got your message I'm still awake is 12:45am I'm having a great time listening to you Captivate Me lacing them spokes that was a trip I understood you very clear damn I'm 63 I think I'm out doing this all night it was an honor that you contact you thank you I hope we live another good 50 years
I'll drink to that! Thank You.
i love to watch a man who really knows what he's doing work on just about anything .
Thank You.
Great video, I'm happy too.
Perfect!
Tapers like their feet flat down, with enough pressure on their sole,
to stop the rollers skidding round, loosely on their pole.
Too much pressure's just as bad, they'll moan & run real hot,
but with enough free play, then a bath of grease, they're happy with their lot.
For bearing pressures come & go, as the spokes transfer their load,
to apply the tyre's final touch, & give 'feel' to the open road.
Happy trundling Mike : )
Good Job today! Mr. Dude, it's always a pleasure.
Sweet 🚴♂️
Great video brother! My Road King has aluminum, mag wheels! I sure do love the old school spokes though! My Road King is a 97 with a carbed Evo! Just got it last March! It's a bit more comfortable! Than my old 82 ironhead sportster! I let my son ride it through! So we can go on rides together!
That's great! I wish my dad was still around so we could ride together.
Great Job Mike. Thank you for Sharing . It’s great to pass this knowledge on. I very much appreciate all your videos.
Thanks for watching!
I wish I knowed half the stuff you know about old Harley's you make everything look so easy. Great video
After a while, it becomes routine. When I started with this stuff, it wasn't old, but then, I wasn't either.
I'm happy too! That was cooool!
Happy beats everything else, doesn't it?
With all due respect you're like the Bob Ross of motorcycling.
Thank You
@@pacificmike9501 Hey while I have your attention I got a question for you. I'm inheriting my father's 97 Heritage Softail. (It's only been sitting through the winter.) Are there any common issues I should look out for. I'm completely new to riding bikes but I've been around them my whole life so please don't think I'm a idiot.
It will probably "wet sump." Make sure you have fresh gasoline and your battery is up to a full charge. This is imperative. Remove the sparkplugs with the air filter opened up. If oil comes out of the breather tubes in the heads, don't be surprised. It will probably happen when you spin the motor over. Don't run the starter for more than a few seconds at a time. Then, put the sparkplugs back in and start the engine. Fresh gasoline a must. Once you've started it, and run it for enough time to warm up and get the oil back into the tank, change the oil and filter. Try to use the same oil your dad did. Check all the other fluids. After running it a while, change all your fluids. Have a fresh battery. Keep fresh gas in it. Keep it clean and love on it. After sitting for a year, it may give you a little grief, but once you get past that stage, the adventure begins.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you
That was very good stuff.. often overlooked
It will fail if it's not proper. Glad you liked it.
@@pacificmike9501 dam right...I like watching your posts..I've learned a ton..I have the service manuals.. but I like to see how it's done..thanks Mike
Nice video Mike, it is always enjoyable to see the"old School" ways. Cheers!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank u Mike,useful information about end play. The Swede. Nice Harley weather on the west coast of Sweden 😎.
Thank You. I'd love to see Sweden. You know, years ago, I got very drunk with a couple of Swedish bikers that were here on holiday visiting some friends of mine. They introduced me to Yaegermeister. The rest is kind of fuzzy.
@@pacificmike9501 🤩 yes Jägermeister is a must on bikerpartys in Sweden. Some bikers even mix it with Jack Daniels,and they go wild🤣. I have had to much of that in the -90s. But still like a cold bear from time to time after a long days riding. The Swede.
Awesome video Mike, I feel right at home watching this channel, so please keep bringing us these videos.
How cool. "Right at home" is great. Thank You.
It turned out great Mike !!
Thank You.
A number of years ago I, along with my father, was working on an old hot rod of mine and needing to pack the bearings, I put a glob of grease in my palm and started to pack the bearing, my father looked at me and said "what are you doing?" and went to his tool box and pulled out a bearing packing tool, took the other bearing and packed it within a couple of seconds and told me "the right tool for the right job", I said "son of a bitch, I've been packing bearings like this since I was a teenager and didn't even know there was such a tool", my father just laughed at me.
Yah, I've had a few times with my dad laughing at me. And he was funy.
My dad never did ANYTHING when I worked on an engine. He literally sat on the work work bench and told me what to do. His reasoning was he "did't want me to bring it to him when it needed to be worked on" so, that's how he taught me to do it. Hands on. With instruction. I can picture him now sitting on the work bench drinking a beer and telling me what i needed to do. To this day, I can't figure out how he knew all that stuff. (He was building hard core drag racing engines in cars before i was born though).
@@pacificmike9501 yep I remember I was working on an old 4 stroke ask dad how do I know if the points are in correctly? His answer: hold the spark plug wire and turn the flywheel slowly, you'll know he said. 😂😨⚡ Yep they were in correctly
Watching this made me want to go back to being a bike mechanic i did it for 8 years 😀
It's work, but, I always felt like making my customer's bikes really nice was a kind of reward all in itself.
@@pacificmike9501 i feel the same way. Ur a good dude mike👊
Best Harley mechanic on YT
Thank You
👍🙂
Such a pleasure to watch. Thanks Mike. Keep safe.
Thank You. You too.
Hey Mike kudos to the cameraman
Thank You. He really works at it, and I feel very fortunate.
👍
Can't wait to see that project bike come to life! I want to build one more myself, before the kids slap me in a nursing home! Lol
You can do it! Thank You.
Oh man you got that right. Time is just flying these days but money isn't flying into my hands either.
Another great vid brother Mike very informative brings back a lot of memories thank you and prompts the camera great question cameraman Mike Ride Hard Ride fast be safe
Thank You.
👍
Thanks Mike, while watching this vid I've ordered a bearing packer off ebay! lol.
Cool. Tools are great.
I just discovered your channel and subscribed yesterday, I have watched a lot of your videos. Most of the repairs you have covered I have done myself many times but it is good to see things from a different approach sometimes. I am about to learn to lace wheels and found your video very informative, and makes it look much less intimidating. Keep up the good work!
Thanks and welcome
That really is a sweet looking front wheel Sir
Thank You.
Great job Mike and thanks for the information. Art from Reno NV 😎
Thank You. Hello to Reno!
This guy. The Bob Ross of motorcycle mechanics. Keep it up Mike we love 'em !
Thank You.
Pretty darn cool Mr.Mike. That bearing packer is a lot better than doing it by hand and a whole lot cleaner. Another great video.
Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 You are welcome
Great job Mike
Thank You.
As always.. Another informative video, thx!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
You are the man
Thank You.
Great fun! Thank you Mike.
Thank You.
When I wrenched on a Shovelhead for the first time (long, long ago...) I was thinking that the wheel bearings are totally shot. I disassembled the hub, measured the spacer and it turned out that it was already the smallest one. It puzzled me because the timkens looked totally fine. I used to work on metric bikes only and they usually don't have any "feel-able" play in the wheel bearings. I simply could not believe that Harley bearings could have up to almost half a millimeter end play according to the service manual after I looked it up. I am used to it now, but for me as a European guy it is still strange.
I'm so used to Timkens, I find anything else strange. Our differences are really pretty small.
You do make it look easy.
It is pretty basic.
Beautiful Mike 👍
Thank You.
This for this Instructional video. The last wheel I bought new for my FXWG was tagged end play set. Brought to shop for tire install. They packed the bearings.
That's the way I've always done it. You don't assume things with wheels.
Loved the bearing packer.The few bearings that I do I will use my hands but i would still like to have one.Ugggh I'm so cheap.
Tool trucks have them. You'd be surprised how inexpensive they are.
As always 👍👍🖖
Thank You.
hello mike looking good
Thank You.
I enjoy your show.
Glad you enjoy it!
👍🙂
Done like a pro....nice
Thank You.
I could be wrong, but I think you left out to torque it down slowly while very slightly spinning the wheel and if it slows down, stop torquing because it is too tight and further torque could ruin the bearings by forcing an interference fit. If you add shims to correct end-play, you need a step washer in there between the inner bearing race and the shims. I think it is officially called a " wheel spacer washer" (OEM part number 43650-82) and it's purpose in to keep the shim from contacting the inner bearing race and the bearing cage that spins sepertly from the inner bearing race..Old shovel wheels called for getting a differant (longer or shorter) spacer to set end-play (not shims) but the specs were .004 to .018 endplay. I think sometime in the 1980's they started using the shims and /or trimming the hub spacer down on a lathe and manual called for .002 to .006 end-play in those days. I would love to see someone devise a way to trim that hub spacer down evenly without a lathe or or devise a way to do it on (attach hub spacer to) a drill press and maybe use a file.
Very well said. Thank You. It's really difficult, but, in an emergency, I've shortened those Shovelhead, color coded wheel bearing spacers with my 6 X 48 belt sander. Getting them straight is near impossible. But. in emergencies, we do odd things.
@@pacificmike9501 Can I shorten a color spacer and use shims and a top hat? I'm at the higher end of the tolerances
As allways great video, and i watch the commercials!
And I appreciate you.
👍
Everythin' is always more fun when you have the setup and been thru the routine. That and the thot - riding down the road - your wheel bearings are good.
Thank You.
Half of a thousandth is .0005 and I believe you meant to say 5 thousandth which is .005. When I first heard this I kind of jerked my head. Difference between 5 thousandth and 14 thousandth is 9 thousandth and that is probably the range the manufacturer described. I found a reference in another youtube video concerning a 1985-90 FX/Softail factory service manual Page 2-8/9. End play spec range of .004-.018. That page also noted to do the check the end play with the bearings greased like in you video. If I am out in left field let me know. I love your videos and always am anxious for them to come out!
Nope, you're good. Anywhere in that .005 to .014 is good. But, personally, I feel .014 is a bit much. .005 is pretty tight. We get used to doing them and it becomes a "feel" thing. Can't teach how to feel. But, I don't always say things the way I should. Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 back in the late 60's an old German mechanic(my first boss) who worked in the VW factory in Germany before coming here in the 50's showed me how to adjust the front wheel bearings on the foreign cars that I worked on in his shop. You tighten the nut on the washer that sat in the inner race of the bearing and tighten until it would not slide then back off just until it started to slide. Then hold the 17 mm nut while locking the other 17 mm nut onto the nut against the washer, thus locking it in position. Funny how those adjustments and so many others are implanted in my mind. The Porsche racing team from the area that I grew up in (Phila suburbs) used to shave his thumb nail (he let it grow to a suitable length) to 4 thousandths so he did not have to hold a feeler gauge while doing a valve adjustment in the pits. he was fastest by far. They called him "the witchdoctor"
Thanks for your reply. I hope to take a trip on my 97 yamaha royal star and stopping in to visit you. maybe one day. Stay safe!
Drive sproket alignment when using a custom wheel or an aftermarket frame can be a huge pain in the butt.Touch on that one sometime if you will.
We will when it comes up. And, yes it is, but you get used to it.
I'm trying to figure this out right now. Chain is riding on the outside edge of the drive transmission sprocket. Can't move the sprocket any closer to the transmission so no idea how to get it centered. It rides dead center on the wheel sprocket.
Good stuff, Thanks.
I noticed the springer laying on the bench.
I need a backing plate, drum and shoes for a re-pop VL I-Beam springer.
Do you have a brake set-up you would sell?
Thanks, Bo
No, I don't. All I have in the way of that stuff is what I need for what I'm building. Sorry 'bout that. Check out ebay.
I am doing the wheel bearing and tires on my 72 FLH I can find my bearing nut wrench so I had to order another one of course. You know I will find the other one as soon as I get the new one. I am doing the forks while I am at it. I am still packing bearing the old way a hand full of grease and a bearing.
You bet. It's the way I was raised. But, I really like a bearing packer because it forces all the old grease out, while replacing it with fresh.
i would love to read this guys resume and history
There are certain things we don't share.
@@pacificmike9501 to bad. i bet it is a great biography of a master mechanic
Hello from South Georgia Mike
Backatcha. Hope all is well.
Hi, Mike. I am getting closer to having my '51 Pan-Shovel chopper on the road, which has OEM star hubs laced to a steel 21" in front, and a fatter steel 16" at the rear. So, would the 85 in. lbs. you reference be appropriate for those rims, too?
Yes, but my specs come from Buchannan's, who make real quality spokes. I can't speak for the quality of all brands. Buchannan also uses a special "antisieze" on their spokes. So, it's a little difficult to assign a specific torque spec to what you have.
nice!!
Thank You.
Hey Mike I recently put new bearings and races in my '95 FLSTC and set them to 3 thousands of an inch, as you've shown here in this amazing video, with no bearing grease (the specs recommend 2 to 6 thousands). The manual recommends to check the play when the wheels are assembled and on the bike as well and when I do that I get an extra 6 to 8 thousands of an inch on both wheels. I'm assuming this is accounted for in the bearings being packed with grease?
It seems strange. I'd pull them and check again. Make sure you're preloading against the internal spacer.
@aaronblakeley9442 My 1985-90 H-D Softail service manual also says that end play must be checked fully assembled on the bike with grease - the end play spec is for that condition. Grease will affect the end play, so this makes sense to me; however, most of the CZcams vids utilize the technique that Mike used here.
Nice job
Thank You.
I like Harley wheels. Coolest wheels on planet earth.😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
I've always loved them.
You gotta back pack behind the seal,no voids for water penitration.
Thank You.
Always used my hands, but I think I'll buy a Packer thanks to Magic Mike ! Fr. East Coast Canada 😈
Cool. They really are nice.
That’s one nice wheel Mike. When did Harley make the change to roller bearings?
Harley has always had roller bearings. Then they were loose rollers until 1967. Then they were ball bearings until 1973. Then they went to tapered caged rollers (Timken type) until todays sealed bearings that started somewhere around 2002.
Pacific Mike Sorry I meant the sealed bearings. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. 👍🏻
Mike , good vid as usual. Qs how often do wheel bearings need to be re greased ?
Thanks
I service the bearings with every tire change.
Thanks Mike for clearing up some of the mysteries of setting up wheels. It's one of those sometimes tedious and thankless jobs.
My question is how do you get your cases so clean without leaving tool or chemical marks on them?
Thanks
Degreaser, soft brush, nothing special. Clean it before it bakes on for too long.
Hey Mike my left (Sprocket) side rear hub on my Panhead has around .030 end play on the inner sleeve, do I need to fix it by adding shims to the Right (Star) side to tighten up that sleeve end play on the left ??
Yes, but disassemble it and replace seals and check out the surfaces, replace rollers. It's a little work, but well worth it.
Axle spaces have a chamfer on one side. What's the reason for that and should the chamfer face the wheel bearings or the swingarm?
I'd say the bearing, so nothing ccan interfere with a "flat" fit.
Great video, definitely helped me out. Do I need to grease the axle on install? Thank you
Yes you do
Today was Lunch with Mike! 😃
Thank You. But, I'm still hungry.
Pacific Mike, what’s a good lunch for Mike?
Mike,
Thank you man! Great vid!! Very educating.
We really all appreciate you sharing you knowledge about motorcycle mechanics!
I have a question, what kind of wheel bearing grease do you use on your Harley disc brake tapered roller bearing? Any preference?
I have been using Shell Gadus S3 V220c 2,
I've had it in the bearings of my Spinger Softail since last spring, about 3300 miles logged and still good shape🤷♂️
Thanks
Mike
Most of the modern wheel bearing greases are great. I like to use heavy duty bearing grease for trailers because it's more resistant to water.
Will the timkin star hub you showed be compatible with the stock big twin harley front axle? With stock big twin rockers on springer for a stock stepped star hub? I am doing this right now and want to retain the stock axle if I can instead of having to make a custom one.
You can modify it. Or, you can order one through Custom Chrome.
Good video. Where can I get shims for the bearing spacer???? I need to ad .012 to my inner spacer.
V-Twin, Drag Specialties or any of the aftermarket suppliers.
Any thoughts on the Lucas red and tacky #2 wheel bearing grease for packing up the Timken bearings?
I've not used them.
That was slick, HA HA HA
Grease for peace.
Slippery come back.
Hi Mike. Replacing the wheel bearings in '75 FXE SG. The outer seal and roller bearings come out fine. The race the roller bearing goes into does not budge. I gently get it a tug with a seal puller and it appears 'well seated'. Any suggestions as to how to coax it out? Many thanks and keep up the spectacular work!!
Use a drift and a hammer and locate the drift on the inner race edge from the opposite side of the wheel. They'll come out. Don't forget to set the inner spacer back in between the bearings as per you service manual and properly set the endplay of the bearings, again, as per your sevice manual.
@@pacificmike9501 , thanks. the inside of the hub casting prohibits me from getting a solid "drift connection" to the inner bearing race - I can get a few good raps from one angle but cant get the opposing side. poking around for a tool, found one on eBay, 'tapered wheel bearing rave remover/installer, 73-99 FL, FX, XL. Also VT102 kits. Also Jim's removal tool, references OEM ON 33071-73. does any of this sound promising? thanks for the consideration here.
Mike, have you ever painted a motor while it's still in the bike? I'm looking to do a flat black but not sure what can of paint to get from the hardware store/HD. Any tips you can offer?
I'm not a painted motor guy. But, although I've only used it for touch up, Harley's motor paint is really good. I'm gonna have to paint an Evo top end soon. But, I do that stuff with the help of an oven. That oven is only used for motorcycle parts, no food. I'm afraid I'm not much help here.
@@pacificmike9501 No worries, my jugs and primary, etc are pretty oxidized, so I figured they'd clean up nice if I painted them.
Mike. You should check out MotoMetalMind russian channel. The guy builds V-Twin out of pile of scrap metal in old soviet village. Also build soviet springer chopper.
I've seen his stuff. He's amazing.
at 3:50 i think you should spin the wheel as you torque it down, just say`n
Okay.
Hey mike was wondering what oil are using in your shovels.I have a 1949 45 wl that i have been using HD 50 wt oil not syn oil.
I use modern 20/50 in all of them.
Thanks mike
Hey Mike I know this is off-topic but I have a 1978 shovel with a chain drive primary you say to run that dry all the time? With no oil right?
No. I recommend the original oiling system as Harley intended. A dry chain will certainly fail.
OK thanks gonna have to look into this a little more because right now there’s no way for any oil to get in there have to see what somebody else did and why thanks again
Hey Mike I just recently picked up a low mileage 87 Evo, Motor has good compression 140 both cylinders even, motor sounds tight, no knocks or strange noises. It does however have leaking cylinder base gaskets and the rear rocker box looks like it's been leaking for awhile at the back near the exhaust. So I decided to pull the top end and freshen up all the seals and gaskets. Now here is my problem, I'm having a hard time with the thought of pulling those pistons out out of the cylinders since it has such good compression and when I pulled the heads the top of the pistons looked nice, no excessive carbon build up. In fact with just a little brake clean on a rag I was able to wipe the top of the pistons and read that it's a std bore original. So I was wondering what your thoughts are on pulling the cylinders up just far enough to expose the pin for extraction without allowing the rings to escape the bore? Or would you just bite the bullet and re ring it? The cylinders look good with the nice cross hatching visible and no scuff marks. Also like I said this is a early Evo bottom breather, is there anything you would do to upgrade the heads while they where off? Thanks for any input. PS can't wait to see the completed UL project, gonna be awesome!! 😁
Sounds really nice. 87 motor is awesome. When Evos first came out, we learned that base gaskets were going to be a problem. If they didn't go earlier, they did it by 40 thousand miles. But these were really good motors. We pulled the topends, ballhoned the cylinders, installed new rings, handlapped the valves, replaced the gaskets and valve seals, and put them back together. We, of course, put in mild hot rod cams, better carburetors, exhausts and ignitions. Nobody added all of those improvements at once. But after the topend freshening, they fell in love with them. With proper maintenance, they stayed together for another hundred thousand miles. The original hydraulic valve lifters have a limited life, check them. After starting up cold, give that cold-blooded Evo motor time to warm up well before playing "throttle jockey."
@@pacificmike9501 I have a new EV 27 cam I'm putting in, have a like new Kerker 2into 1 that's been hanging on my wall waiting for a home that I fitted earlier in the week that's going on, adjustable pushrods, new lifters and either a S&S S or a slightly modified CV carb in place of the original and a K&N high flow filter. I was just wanting someone to tell me it was ok to take the shortcut on leaving the pistons inside the cylinder but I should know from watching your videos that you're not the guy that takes shortcuts. Lol. So I guess I'll take your advice and have the cylinders honed and put in new rings. I've never done any cylinder honing and I don't have a ring grinder to set the end gap so I'll have to take them to a shop for that. Thanks. Stay Safe!!!
@@dkelley1959 a world class Harley Tech told me EV27 cam is for a larger bagger Harley and on my 1997 FXDL 80 inch use a EV2 cam and a 44 Mikuni carb with 2 in 1 exhaust.. so let me know how that EV27 is doing... Thx a bunch...
yes i would remove those pistons just to look at those ring and clean out the ring grooves and inspect them i saw a broken ring on a 1993 FXR last week and the man did not even know it was broken. saved the bore by removing them... yes you can reuse the old rings if you only want to replace the base gaskets from leaking oil i did one 4 years ago on my 1990 FXRP it just had a oil leak in the back left corner they all leak there, and now it has 30K More miles on it and i did use the old rings did not hone it out for it only had 24K miles on the bike it was a auction Police Highway Patrol Harley from Calif... $5,000 Yep 24K Miles on it...
@@johncasor9698 I ended up doing what I always do, the domino effect. I put new Wiseco 10-1 forged pistons in it, EV27 cam, new lifters, adjustable pushrods, got rid of the early style manifold and carburetor, put on the later CV carb and manifold. Put in a Ultima single fire ignition kit. I had a set of S&S chrome rocker boxes hanging around on my wall so I put those on. Pulled the heads apart and vapor blasted them, put in new guide seals, re lapped the vales back in. Had a really ice Kerker 2 into1 hanging on the wall from another bike I sold so I'm putting that on, mocked it up the other day, just need to make a bracket. It's almost done, hope to fire it up for the first time with the new goodies real soon. Just got some wiring I want to clean up first. I can't help myself. LOL 😆 so much for just doing the gaskets. 🤪
What type of grease do you prefer..? Regular MP or have you ever tried using Marine grease ..? What are your thoughts..??
I use regular automotive grease. No, wait, I've been using trailer bearing grease. I felt it would be better if I go through a big puddle of water, or ride through a blizzard.
@@pacificmike9501 That's the reason that next time I may use a Marine grease...what the heck...it's still slippery..!