DON'T Buy These Boards from Lowe's
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2021
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In my experience, Lowe's and Home Depot's wood is barely a step above kindling. Heads up... they're never going to change. Support local lumber supply houses.
I would.. but I can almost never get out.. so since the local supply houses don't deliver and don't do 'retail' then it's clear that local supply near me effectively don't exist as a source for wood.
Easy, my locals have worse lumber than Lowe's.
I'm surprised the wood I get from Home Depot doesn't sprout leaves.
I think you gotta give the big boxes more credit... There was a time when plywood from my local HD was unusable - even for kindling. But lately their stock is reasonable quality. Not cabinet grade or anything, but reasonable for what it is.
@@indisputablefacts8507 laughing a bit on the mention of cabinet grade.
I was trying to build some cabinets.. ordered (for delivery) stuff to build some from Lowes.
None of it was usable for cabinetry - ok, sure for the supports (1x2s), yeah, and the hinge and drawer hardware, yup.
I had a large piece that was unusable because it had a huge knothole (or knot) on one side, and a different knothole on the back-side just 16 inches away laterally.
When verifying (pre-delivery) they said it was never less than grade B.
To this day, I can't find a use for the plywood.
This is awesome practical advice, especially for people just getting started in the trades or DIY and homeowners! Spending a little extra on much better materials will yield a better finished product, faster! Thanks Richard, teriffic lesson!
Yoooo Vince my man!
@@jayrob7418 what up buddy!?!?
“Wayne’s Wall...party time...excellent”.
Would be cool to see that face of the board run over a joiner or a thickness planer.
@@FinishCarpentryTV Where in DFW (Fort Worth side) area do you get this? Thanks for showing this
The other deal with the coating is it chips and spalls when it gets nailed. Very time consuming to repair. Great video.
I remember when Windsor one came out everyone was using them for exterior trim and only 5 years later we found our hybrid finger joined wicks water like a sponge.
I could have used this video about 24 hours earlier. Every board at Lowes had chips like you showed and I was blown away by how thick the primer coating was. Great video, will be looking for better materials in the future.
Love the honesty. I always learn something from your videos. Been doing finished carpentry for over 50 years. Good info.
Thanks a lot. I’m planning to do my wainscoting very soon. Very helpful information. God bless you man.
Thank you so much for this video. We're about to get shiplap to finish a "shed" and this information was very helpful.
Man thank you so much for the explanation! The coped edge now makes perfect sense. I'm not a pro, just a lot of diy. When I buy primed FJ from HD I get that exact gap when doing pocket holes. I've always chocked it up to an experience or poor tools. I guess that's not always the case. I'll have to try out a local lumber store next time.
Always can expect to learn something from this channel these videos are very informative thanks keep up the great work
Man, I wish I saw this video a couple of years ago when I was doing some trim in my house. My local HD has the true square edge primed pine one-bys. They were out of a size I wanted, so went to Blue Depot. I didn't think much at the time when I grabbed what I needed, but did notice the primer was rather chalky feeling. By the time I got around to cutting them up I realized the roonded corners. I even ripped some down for other pieces instead. Lesson learned. Thanks for the video Richard!
Thank you. As a DIY person who lives and works on a farm, information on quality material is a must. Nothing worst, in my experience, than getting materials (PVC, wood, metal, etc.) that are cheaply made and trying to do repairs with them.
Wow! Awesome video! I've found that getting my material from a proper supplier instead of a big box store, just works out better. Some of the guys have commented about big box stores selling "one step above kindling" and I would certainly agree! Some of their stuff looks like hockey sticks! Keep up the great work man & thanks again for the video!!!
Used the 1x3 version of these boards from Lowe’s to make crown molding for kitchen cabinets. Worked great.
This is a good home owner education. I’m also a finish carpenter in New England. A couple things I’ve also noticed with both products you are comparing is that due to the seasonal changes up here in temperature AND humidity, both products will have finger joint failures from the expanding and contracting. Both products will also have tannin bleed through. Both of these problems are not immediate, they take a few years to surface. I personally wish we had a supplier that would stock bare finger jointed material so that the primer is also up to us. Hands down windsor1 is a superior product, have installed pallets of linear feet of all shapes and combinations.
I install windows and doors for Lowe’s hahaha. The delivery people put packing tape on it and it takes chunks off every time. If it gets wet it literally melts.
Yep, I have seen that.
Amazing video!
I had no idea about this.
Thank you for a very informative video. 👍
I love your channel 😍
This video is so true! I have been using Windsor one in my house Reno for everything and I’m currently doing floor to ceiling 1x6 panels and the picture moulding like you have done, in my foyer. Ran one board short and the nearest dealer to me is an hour away so I got it from HD... never again. Ever! Windsor one is such a great product!
And in my area (NoVA) the W1 is actually cheaper than HD and Lowe’s! Crazy!
by the look of the end grains, the Lowes board is flat sawn which has a tendency to bow down the center. I assume the thick primer is to hide the bow. I noticed the primer was thicker in the center when you planed one side of the board. The Windsor board looks like its modern quarter sawn, which is more stable
I think you mean the board is cupped or warped.
Finger jointed stock is a hodgepodge of flat/quarter/whatever sawn scraps really… they’re chunks too short to do anything else with. All those chunks expand/contract differently and sooner or later you *will* see the joints through the paint.
@@HBSuccess That's why God invented popular.
@@toms641 Poplar?
@@toms641 Its almost as expensive as oak in my area. It will be MDF or FJ pine for me from now on.
Thank you for the info
Much appreciated advice and the shiplap looks great.
GREAT VIDEO thanks for the info
You do such great work. Love watching you work.
we put Windsor one channel siding on our lake house in canada 20 years ago, been painted 1 time and still looks amazing.
we tried to get this product into the lumber yards down in oregon back then and no one was interested, they were only doing exterior woods at the time
Beautiful job❤️ Thank you so much…
Thanks for the info.
Appreciate the insight info and product comparison, helps us all be that little more knowledgeable and I formed when making product choices.
This was so informative and helpful!
I have also noticed the “rounded” corners. The coating also chips. Then you must fill it in before final painting. Thanks! I will compare prices with my local lumber yard. My father was a carpenter and I am not intimidated by a lumber yard.
Good info. Thanks for posting. I have always been bothered by the coating on the boards from Lowes/Home Depot.
Educational, thanks !! Blessings 🙌
" call Kurt for a shirt" @Windsor one offices. Great material. I love the different mouldings they offer.
Great info man! I'm not a contractor but do a lot of projects for myself and family. I never realized this but have unknowingly fought it several times.
I work in a cabinet shop and my boss was using that thick coated primed pine boards. He was running ripped boards through our surface planer to clean up the edges to, make sanding easier. The material totally screwed up our 3 blades on the planer. That clay coating was so hard, it took chunks out of the edges of our new blades. After I saw that, I said no more primed material goes through our planers or jointers. It truly is an inconsistent material from the different manufacturers. That thick primer achieves 2 things. (1) It helps cover up the finger joints and (2) Their boards aren't consistent and this is their ineffective way to solve that problem. JC..
I did one wall of shiplap in my house with Lowes shiplap. Out of the Big Box stores theres seemed to be the best. But it did take some more prep work and filling, sanding etc to get a smooth finish. But I do agree with you it makes for harder joints and would never work for a wainscot wall!
Thanks for the Windsor one hookup. I grabbed a catalog several months ago after watching one of your videos, and that's all I will use anymore. Thanks for the content. Could you do another video explaining how you figure out your angles. I use a digital angle finder and it screws me up every time, i could definitely use a refresher. Thanks again.
This is so helpful! WOW! Thank you
I really like your work sir. Keep up the good work.👍🏾👍🏾
Great advise, thank you.
Thank you for this video.
I was aware of this which you are giving us a warning about.
I worked at Home Depot for ~13 yrs and contractors/carpenters complained about the lumber they had to choose from @ HD, but convenience outweighed cost and quality.
"Caveat Emptor" (Latin: “let the buyer beware”) as Mike Brady warned.
Just bought some recently, all of the above! Using the smallest gauge brad creates a huge hole also. I had to sand all edges on many occasions. Our lumber yard is closed weekends so you get what you get. I'll see if Windsor 1 is available. Thanks
Thank you for showing this. I just used 1x2s in the kitchen, and there is a lot of filling and sanding needed because of the lack of a straight edge, but they were warped as well. It helps to know that there is a better product.
@p. carr: I cannot imagine that there is any cabinet grade 1x2 available. I would have ripped a wider board to get what I needed. Filling gaps between boards is futile because those 1x2s are going to move alot.
@@really2345 Yes, ripping a wider board would have been better. My frameless uppers were completely flat on the bottom. I added the trim to hide outlet strips and LED lighting underneath.
Greatest information on you tube….. I would not have noticed that and been frustrated when it was not square. Thanks for your channel and all your great videos….🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for the information
Great video.. I have been frustrated with these for a while but assumed the upgrade would cost too much. Thanks for clarifying and pushing me over the edge to not buy it anymore.
I couldn't believe some years ago when using raw shiplap for interior finish was starting up. When I was a kid, shiplap was the interior sheathing (before drywall was common) in the South. Then canvas was tacked over it and wallpaper applied. All the older houses in the South had this treatment, up until about 1950 when drywall became more common. The shiplap used then was just common lumber, full of knots and checks. It appears today that shiplap has got itself an education, went to finishing school, and even comes primed to show itself off. I still snicker at folks uncovering walls in old houses, discovering shiplap, and collapsing in fits of ecstasy when everything old is new again.
The old "common lumber full of knots and checks" probably looks better and has less imperfections than todays finish grade/sanded real wood
That’s not primer on the Lowe’s board, it’s candy coated.😂
I wonder if that's the Chinese boards they stock. I trimmed out my house myself and didnt like how their 1x's looked. Wound up using the Chilean 1x's from Home Depot instead, much better quality, nice square corners and thin primer. Filled and sanded the nail holes twice and used a foam roller with SW paint. Looks like a million bucks now!
m&m dip ship lath.
@@bigpjohnson doesn't make any sense to get wood from China. It's a pain in the ass and expensive to ship. Especially when the US and Canada produce the vast majority of the globe's lumber.
They are actually a type of powder coating for wood that is heat-treated. Jeldwen builds the door for them and the frames are the same way. If you buy an actual jeldwen it's primed completely different.
Great info!
Great video Richard, thanks !!
Appreciate the honesty
Bro I can not figure out how you keep me watching from start to finish. Great stuff. Thanks for the info
I've had the primer peel off on those big box store boards like it was static cling vinyl or something...
Good information, outstanding job!
I always thought going to a supplier I’d be paying a lot more, thanks for the comparison of prices. Definitely worth paying a little more to save time, and gain quality! S/F
I found this when I started to buy paint commercially but the biggest change to my life was when started working with an abrasives supplier. I use different tools, buy less expensive sanding disks that are higher quality, so many things.
Big box stores are much more expensive to run than lumber yards or warehouses, and the consumer pays for it!
@@2003Trailblazer Think about it, big box stores warehouse 95% stuff that you yourself are not going to purchase. And like Ryan says, you pay a premium on that which they reduce by volume but only so much. You can usually order through a smaller tool dealer exactly what you want, lots of them will have special rebates they can offer you and process for you.
Lumber yards have 2 sets of pricing, one for contractors and one for everyone else. You will pay more for everything but the increase in quality is well worth it.
Yep. We re-did all the baseboard in the house and HD was 2.34 a foot where local lumber store was under $1 per foot. Both primed FJP. 36 16 foot boards and it adds up. Same thing with some crown. Just 5 16 foot pieces, but it was a Sunday and the lumber yard wasn't open. Went to HD and said nope I can't do it. I'm not gonna pay $180 for the same thing that is $80 if I wait until Monday.
One other thing is the difference in finish carpentry vs rough. Had same guys who put in luxury vinyl and carpet do the base and shoe as well as some rough carpentry (replace water damage in areas of floor etc). Great for the vinyl, carpet, and rough but definitely not finish carpenters as far as just baseboard and shoe molding goes let alone crown.
Very educational, thanks.
Eye opening information. Thanks.
your videos are always great
Thanks for the heads up.
The worst part about that gesso coating is that rips will tear off huge chips of the stuff. Also, for being "primed" the gesso coating is more porous than the wood and actually takes more paint.
If you find a flat board at Lowe's or Home Depot, thank your lucky stars because it's a miracle.
3 Lowe’s executive’s disliked the video 😂
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
I'm about to make a drop ceiling in my basement using 1x4 boards for the grid support. Glad your video randomly came up on my feed because I was going to buy Lowe's lumber. Luckily there are 2 dealers in my area that sell WindsorONE.
Thanks for the comparison. I actually like the round over edge when I am facing shelves on my built-ins, but it does create the gap on the seams that you have to fill. Unfortunately no where around me carries Windsor.
I am 170 miles away from a dealer. Bummer
Thank you for your knowledge sharing.
You are so right on the Lowes board. We ran into a problem with the measurements on some boards from Lowes and the salesperson educated me on them and boy, were they off. We didn't get them. Thank you.
thanks for the comparisson! where do you get the Windsor material in DFW?
Same here in Michigan, the lumber stores are completely competitive with the big box stores, and the bonus is, all the lumber stores sell a much higher quality product. I never understood when I see “contractors” buying finish carpentry materials from the big box stores.
I get it, not every carpenter is as picky as some of us are, but the comparisons in quality between the lumber stores and big box stores is night and day … )it only makes sense).
That shiplap job you did is crisp af… nice work as always Richard..
Big box stores you have to load wood on cart and then go pay. True lumberyards you can pay then pull to pile of wood and load truck feet from the pile of lumber. Anything more in cost at lumberyard is saved in speed of loading. Or at least it is for me.
@@kevinmeyer8068 absolutely worth it. I build in a busy metro area with around the clock traffic, so whenever possible have materials delivered. My moulding suppliers and lumberyards deliver for free or charge a delivery fee that is less than what I would pay one of my guys to gopher it. Whatever material is culled from the delivery we just send back with the next drop, or if it at the end of the project, we’ll return it when heading that direction. I really try to limit wheel time, as it’s not the best use of my time.
@@FinishCarpentryTV isn’t there a good lumber yard in FTW , ?
We all started from the bottom, and we are all guilty of doing crappy jobs because of the budget, because we all know that it doesn’t matter how good you are if the material is crap. Some people prefer to spend their money on appliances or light fixtures instead of finish carpentry or even cabinetry.
I believe that if you are proud of what you do and do good craftsmanship eventually you will have the chance toleave those jobs and move to work with better budgets, and then when you put together your craftsmanship and good materials, the result it’s so good that the rest just comes by itself..
Lowe’s is well aware of what they’re selling, it’s all based on price. My cousin is the owner of an international bearing manufacturer and goes to China to have things made and he says that what you spec is what they produce and if something if questionable is because you let it occur.
He said they don’t want to lose customers so they don’t make it up on the fly.
One of my customers wives work for Home Depot corporate and says that say a range hood was returned and it’s missing the hardware to mount it they will put it back on the shelf hoping customer # 2 has screws etc to install it and it doesn’t come back again. They do get a margin on defective returns, returned things don’t always go back to the vendor so that range hood is all profit.
I only buy my lumber from a quality local yard and it’s delivered for free.
The 600 feet of crown molding was even carried (I helped) into the foyer and stacked to let it acclimate to the interior. Driver earned a $25 tip for that.
Great video! I'm wondering what blunting effect the clay filler is having on your tools?
Excellent job explaining and illustrating the difference. Regarding Lowe's, the quality of their inventory on pretty much anything was so sporadic that it's the last place I shop, but sometimes they're the only local vendor with a needed item in stock. I've got way too many Lowe's stories for a brief comment, but the worst burn was doing a whole house with a brand of windows called "Survivor." They began failing within a year, and that's despite the fact Consumer Reports actually listed them as a "Best Buy." (So much for 'Consumer Reports'.) Their warranty support was 'The Run Around' until people gave up when the brand disappeared in bankruptcy. (So much for that "lifetime warranty.") Then, there was their drywall debacle - drywall made in China with industrial byproducts that off-gassed sulfur fumes. Not only did it make properties uninhabitable, but it corroded metal. Despite Lowe's having the transaction records and knowing who purchased their toxic drywall, they contacted no one and only a handful of their biggest customers benefited from a Class Action Lawsuit before the claim period expired. Personally, I avoid Lowe's like the plague with rare exceptions.
Great comparison and insights. Thank you.
Love my shirts brother! And this is why my joints were like that🤯🤯🤯🤯 thank you for this video, very informational.
That was an honest open comparison. I would not have known without this review. Thank you.
I love working with Windsor one, the problem that I have is that my local lumber mishandles the boards, last week I went through a big pile of Windsor one to be able to get 6 boards. Most of them have dings, scratches and some big gauges. I tried delivery and they really messed it up with the forklift.
I agree 100% !
I love when they stack wood that is not supported properly on the ground and you get all this small gravel imbedded in the wood .
Last project I preordered windsorone and the lumber came wrapped and strapped to a 2x12 from the distributor. It was super clean. I go back a week later and grab a board that was in stock, dings and scuffs everywhere. If the piece is in a high visibility area it takes for ever to clean it up.
What also sucks are banding marks!
I noticed with the "royal building " pvc trim boards they seem to have what appears to be a solid jacket of pvc with a core not as dense as other brands pvc (azek, trubuilt)
Good tips and insight
that gesso coating. WTF?! i’ve always wondered about that coating from the box store trim. thanks for explaining that one dude.
Thanks Richard always on point...Lowe’s still good for a restroom break!🤣
Great informative video! Where can you buy the Windsor One lumber?
That is something, as a hobbyist, I would have never thought about. Thank You.
Exactly! Takes our hobbyist projects to another level of quality.
Sending my regards to you . I enjoy watching your videos a high 5 from south Florida 🤪
WOW! I like to do my own projects and I would have never thought about the difference! Thank you Sir! I love your vids and you do AMAZING work!
Gesso hide imperfection in wood for a smoother finish. Also quickly dulls your saw blade, like fine sand paper.
Can be hard on your lungs to
I was rounding over some edges on some coated 1 by a awhile back, it was a small brass pilot bushing bit, and that coating literally ate the bushing off of it. I just happened to notice it was leaving a small lip on top and that's when I noticed the bushing was gone. Outside corners will be sharp as a razor too, which is great in one way and horrible in another.
Clay is mud, mud is fine rocks.
I totally agree. I used Winsor boards for a large project. I ran short and got a bord for HD (same as lowes). After using the exact same sanding, primer, and the finished product was much worse with the "cheaper" board. I'll never make that mistake again! I ended up filling and refilling and loads of primer to get the cheaper bord to look the same.
Glad you pointed this out. I do wood and metal crafting and seeing this pisses me off to see that these big box stores are more concerned about ripping people off than providing a good quality product.
Well done. Old contractor and very happy to see a young man take so much pride in his work and attention to detail.
I just finished a basement remodel and the home wanted Lowes product I spent more time sanding and filling the primer coat before I could paint, I always try to use windsorone I find it being the best product.
I'm using these boards for a project I'm working on.. I've actually found the thicker primer useful for removing tool marks such as marks from ripping them, etc.. You can lightly sand that surface and still have plenty of primer left.
John doe, what do you use the chips for ?
He is correct, I just bought some 1x primed material down here in Florida and experienced the same thing only mine was a little worse, more like a heavy 16th of primer on each side. I also found that when I would nail it would chip out.
I want to install new trim in my living room, after watching this video I think I'm going to use unfinished 1x's instead of those boards in the video. I'll have to prime it myself but it's just one room so that's not too bad. Thanks for the video.
So WOW on the tech. TY so much.
Wow… now I get it. A while back I did a casing with a shelf (stool) for our bath window and I kept wondering why the boards I got had rounded corners and my face trim was not flush.
But typical Lowes… “it’s what the supplier sends us” is always their excuse. Like when it took me going through 20 2x8x10 boards to find just 3 that were decent enough for a raised bed garden! Yep, no fancy project,, but that is how bad their lumber is I can’t even get something for my garden!
Wow..that's crazy. I know exactly what you were saying about making face frames with the junk from big box stores tho. And it's always them vertical legs sitting on the horizontal boards where it stands out the most. We have a local lumberyard that I remember picking up the Windsor from when I was still the pup on the crew and that was over 20 years ago. But that lumberyard was always high quality materials and can remember always paying a decent amount there but I'll have to compare it now to see bc like you said..working with that crap from big box stores only creates more work and a suck day. Awesome video and thanks for passing along the knowledge.
Very good video. This is great information for us millwork pine producers.
The thick gesso coat you see it’s a system that the Asian market came up to use less quality wood (knots and rough wood) to cover up the material and make it look like a nice prime board. Sometimes the regular prime boards may not look as nice and smooth as the plaster/clay boards you were comparing with but it’s definitely a better product.
Great video! I’m just about to redo my trim in my home and I was wondering is it ok to use mdf in some spots and then primed pine? Like mdf casing with pine base? Or is that frowned upon? Any feedback would be great! Ty
Windsor one for the win. I had a builder provide me with some Windsor one for some beams and columns I was wrapping and it was night and day from dealing with Lowe’s and Home Depot lumber. Straight, true, a full 3/4” all the way throughout. There’s nothing like it. Amd it’s really not much more expensive.
Hey Richard bro great advice and project as usual! 🔥 SN: you gotta try that BM Advance paint it finishes far better and durable than the SW (which i used for a few years in graco sprayer)
Excellent video!
A moisture meter might have been an interesting test too. If the one board felt heavy, that will probably indicate a high water content, which suggests a board that will have problems as it dries on your walls.
I supply the secondary lumber processor that fingerjoints and primes the product that is in the big box stores. The softwood spices that are used are everything from four different spruce spices to five different balsams plus white, red and yellow pine. The density between all these softwoods varies due to the growing season and the resin in the wood. This is what give you the weight difference. All the processors of fingerjointed and primed lumber are held to only use KD lumber that is dried to 12 percent moisture or less. The glue in this process only works if the lumber is KD to 15 percent or less. This product is marketed to the developers apartment owners and those looking to put as I say lipstick on their pig. The custom home builder is not what this product is going to satisfy. I been manufacturing and developing processes in producing fingerjointed lumber then is then primed with various coatings for now over 45 years. A Hugh learning curve at great expense over those years has brought to what you see in the market place to day. For the most part all fingerjointed lumber primed or not is from low grade what is four common or less. The average length of a fingerjointed piece is between 8”-14”. If you look at most softwood trees that is the distance between the branches or what is a years growth for most softwood spices. I understand why this craftsmen felt compelled to make this video. But the product was never intended to be a high end product. The big boxes are the ones that wanted this on their lumber racks.
I produce over 30 million bdft of this product a year and have seen growth in the market of 10 to 20 percent every year. I don’t think it’s going to change. I will be increasing production to be double by 2025 only because the market needs it.
Damn. I’m in the middle of a job using about 1/3 Lowe’s boards and the rest pfj from hd. Went that way b/c hd dropped their 12’ lengths of pfj. The stores near me only have 8’ or 16’ now.