Yes, the later models like yours are nice because they have adjustable low speed needles. You should also check the carb synchronization. Don't try to make too many running adjustments on the hose/flushette, these engines are very sensitive to exhaust back pressure. In other words, the engine might idle great on the hose, but won't run well in the water. Dial in those needle valves on the water after the engine has warmed up. Keep in mind that engine has "quikstart" which advances the timing during warm up, so you have to be sure quikstart is off when trying to make adjustments on the water. Advancing the idle timing like you did will usually improve idle quality, these engines are cold blooded and like to sneeze and cough a lot. Finally, make sure the engine is getting up to temperature, it won't idle worth a damn if it is running cold.Good job! These engines get a bad rap for poor idle, but usually run pretty well if properly set up.
Hi there.... Sorry to dredge up this old comment, but you seem pretty knowledgable and I am having a similar issue with my 1992 140HP Looper. Just moved it over from the guys I bought it from's boat to mine, and now it has a slightly rough idle (around 750) in the water and will sometimes stall, and almost always stalls out when put back into neutral from forward or reverse. I am replacing the fuel/water filter as I dont know when the gas was last put into this boat, nor the last time that filter got changed (boat is new to me as well), but also want to try to raise the idle just a bit. I was thinking of simply trying to adjust that idle screw on the throttle arm to see if that solves it, but is there anything else you would suggest to try? I wanted to try to advance the timing, but can't find a video on how to do it properly, and dont want to destroy my new (to me) engine. Thx for any help in advance.
@@scottgurkin285 Hi Scott, yours is a 1992 model, correct? There are many little changes on these engines through those years. Does yours have the big black plastic knurled know up by the flywheel? The engine in this video is much easier to adjust than the 1992 models. Does your engine seem to sneeze/cough, then stall out? Unfortunately, these engines are very fussy, and quite challenging to adjust/syncronize. I don't recommend trying to twist that knob right away. The important thing to know is that you can't judge or make adjustments while the engine is running on the hose/flushette, these engines run lean out of the water and will normally spit/cough/sneeze.... The syncronization process for one of these engines is fairly complex and must be performed in correct order... Maybe you can send some pictures of your engine, or a video of it misbehaving to my email....Try changing the spark plugs and make sure the fuel/oil is fresh first though....Don
@@fleetwin1 It'll be this weekend before I'll have it in the water again, but I'll try and take a video to email or link you to. Yes it does have the long knurled knob at the top of the throttle arm (over the idle adjust screw). Hoping it's something simple as some minor adjustments. Figuring out how to do them with it in the water is the hard part. The motor isnt very easily accessible from inside the boat with the big bench seating in the way. Thinking of tying it up at the end of a boat ramp dock and trying to work on it from there. Also, what is the actual function of that big knurled knob? I was under the impression its the small screw right under that on the big throttle arm assembly that you control the idle speed with (directly above the WOT set screw).
@@scottgurkin285 I replied to this through my email, don't know if you got it though...Your 1992 models is not as simple as this 98 model to adjust...Keep in mind, your engine has quikstart also, so it will run rough when started cold, but the idle RPM should drop down slightly and smooth out a bit once warmed up....Maybe we can talk through email...Don
@@fleetwin1 For whatever reason the email reply is going to noreply@youtube.com. My email is smgbad@yahoo.com if you want to shoot me over yours to discuss. Thanks again for all the replies!
i know this is old, but the correct way to make sure the carb butterfly's are closed at idle is NOT with the slow speed adjustment screw. unscrew the cam roller and linkage screw, then the other side (2 screws on top 1 each side) snap them shut by hand. tighten and look. if any are still hung open (even a tiny hair) you will need to also unscrew the allen set screws on that particular side (on throttle bodies) and snap shut as before. re-tighten and put a .010'' feeler between cam roller and throttle cam and tighten. you DO NOT want the cam roller touching the throttle cam at idle, and you do want it exactly inline with the hash mark on throttle cam. if the motor wont run with 2 degrees btdc and the throttle plates shut, motor must be inspected for cylinder wall damage! there is no "bumping the idle" to get it to run right if its outside what the timing is supposed to be according to the service manual! hope this helps.
Hi there I have 115hp 96. I rebuild the carbs and after the rebuild I been having alot of problem trying to keep it on idle ,it turn off and one I'm on the water and try to put it in gear it turn off. I got it to run and I was going 30 mph and I felt a kicking from time to time until it turn off and had another hard time to turn it on and get it running. I need help and still have that problem.
Good vid Bro, I just rebuild my carbs. I have a 2001 Johnson 200hp and I plan to do the same adjustment. Do you know if the Timing adjustment is the same for my motor. 2 degrees before top dead center.
Thank you for responding back. I have a question, when you make the timing adjustment do you wait for the motor to worm up first and then make the adjustment.
I know this video is old but i am having same issues on my 96 Evinrude oceanpro 200hp, by rough idle and it surges at WOT from 4000rpm down to 3500rpm, any knowledge/advice would be greatly appreciated
My buddy was having problems with surging he replaced everything he could think of and it ended up being the fuel/vapor separator. It's where the fuel line screws onto that housing there is some kind of needle he said and the rubber was messed up or something. Might want to try that
I got a 150hp 2000 johnson, when is in idle it shuts off after 5 minutes or so, you this is compatible with my motor? and you think if I do this will help to keep it in idle, steady idle? thanks and please reply!
I think so ,I did the same to a Johnson 200 hp year 2000 and it's working just fine, if the carburetors looks like this ones you should be good to do it ,just make sure they are clean ,remember advancing the time in idler 1 or 2 degrees before TDC give you a better idler, I'm not an outboard mechanic I Learn from others and I try to help, good luck
Bonjour pouvez-vous mettre des vidéos du système de refroidissement où il y a les thermostat merci je regarderai votre vidéo si vous la mettez sur CZcams
I don't know if the 115 HP takes the same adjustments... it looks like your problem is dirty carburetors ,make sure your carburetors are clean before doing any adjustments
Most the time it just needs the idle turned up a little.. if it idles out of the water but not in the water it’s cause there is more pressure for the exhaust so you don’t have to go through all that. Just turn your idle up a little problem solved.
Vincent Ighian I don't own this boat anymore but right next to the serial number there was the year (1998), and the mechanic how helped me verified the year before gave me the instructions and yes it was 1998
@@joshwamorwood1906 Same here. Mine idles pretty bad. Just rebuilt the carbs, changed fuel filter, and gonna change plugs too. If that doesn't work, will give this a try
@@bransayleryou ever gave it a try? I have a v4 130 and rebuilding the carbs right now and don't think I saw an idle mix adjustment other than the linkage for rpm
Just want to give you guys an update. I have a 2001 Johnson 200 hp. Did the exact same adjustments and it runs flawless. Thank you Bro.
Jose Marrero I'm glad to hear that, the porpoise of this video is to help everyone with the same problem, thank you for the update.
Glad you mentioned in and out of the water. Always a big difference.
Well done sir. Thanks for saying you know this motor. Others that are different this might not apply!! Well done!!
Yes, the later models like yours are nice because they have adjustable low speed needles. You should also check the carb synchronization. Don't try to make too many running adjustments on the hose/flushette, these engines are very sensitive to exhaust back pressure. In other words, the engine might idle great on the hose, but won't run well in the water. Dial in those needle valves on the water after the engine has warmed up. Keep in mind that engine has "quikstart" which advances the timing during warm up, so you have to be sure quikstart is off when trying to make adjustments on the water. Advancing the idle timing like you did will usually improve idle quality, these engines are cold blooded and like to sneeze and cough a lot. Finally, make sure the engine is getting up to temperature, it won't idle worth a damn if it is running cold.Good job! These engines get a bad rap for poor idle, but usually run pretty well if properly set up.
Hi there.... Sorry to dredge up this old comment, but you seem pretty knowledgable and I am having a similar issue with my 1992 140HP Looper. Just moved it over from the guys I bought it from's boat to mine, and now it has a slightly rough idle (around 750) in the water and will sometimes stall, and almost always stalls out when put back into neutral from forward or reverse. I am replacing the fuel/water filter as I dont know when the gas was last put into this boat, nor the last time that filter got changed (boat is new to me as well), but also want to try to raise the idle just a bit. I was thinking of simply trying to adjust that idle screw on the throttle arm to see if that solves it, but is there anything else you would suggest to try? I wanted to try to advance the timing, but can't find a video on how to do it properly, and dont want to destroy my new (to me) engine. Thx for any help in advance.
@@scottgurkin285 Hi Scott, yours is a 1992 model, correct? There are many little changes on these engines through those years. Does yours have the big black plastic knurled know up by the flywheel?
The engine in this video is much easier to adjust than the 1992 models. Does your engine seem to sneeze/cough, then stall out? Unfortunately, these engines are very fussy, and quite challenging to adjust/syncronize. I don't recommend trying to twist that knob right away. The important thing to know is that you can't judge or make adjustments while the engine is running on the hose/flushette, these engines run lean out of the water and will normally spit/cough/sneeze.... The syncronization process for one of these engines is fairly complex and must be performed in correct order... Maybe you can send some pictures of your engine, or a video of it misbehaving to my email....Try changing the spark plugs and make sure the fuel/oil is fresh first though....Don
@@fleetwin1 It'll be this weekend before I'll have it in the water again, but I'll try and take a video to email or link you to. Yes it does have the long knurled knob at the top of the throttle arm (over the idle adjust screw). Hoping it's something simple as some minor adjustments. Figuring out how to do them with it in the water is the hard part. The motor isnt very easily accessible from inside the boat with the big bench seating in the way. Thinking of tying it up at the end of a boat ramp dock and trying to work on it from there. Also, what is the actual function of that big knurled knob? I was under the impression its the small screw right under that on the big throttle arm assembly that you control the idle speed with (directly above the WOT set screw).
@@scottgurkin285 I replied to this through my email, don't know if you got it though...Your 1992 models is not as simple as this 98 model to adjust...Keep in mind, your engine has quikstart also, so it will run rough when started cold, but the idle RPM should drop down slightly and smooth out a bit once warmed up....Maybe we can talk through email...Don
@@fleetwin1 For whatever reason the email reply is going to noreply@youtube.com. My email is smgbad@yahoo.com if you want to shoot me over yours to discuss. Thanks again for all the replies!
i know this is old, but the correct way to make sure the carb butterfly's are closed at idle is NOT with the slow speed adjustment screw. unscrew the cam roller and linkage screw, then the other side (2 screws on top 1 each side) snap them shut by hand. tighten and look. if any are still hung open (even a tiny hair) you will need to also unscrew the allen set screws on that particular side (on throttle bodies) and snap shut as before. re-tighten and put a .010'' feeler between cam roller and throttle cam and tighten. you DO NOT want the cam roller touching the throttle cam at idle, and you do want it exactly inline with the hash mark on throttle cam. if the motor wont run with 2 degrees btdc and the throttle plates shut, motor must be inspected for cylinder wall damage! there is no "bumping the idle" to get it to run right if its outside what the timing is supposed to be according to the service manual! hope this helps.
excellent video, very informative
thanks for the video it helped
thanks for the vid. was your motor stalling when it was put in gear? if so did this help? thanks for your time!
Thank you sooo much!!!!!! :-)
Hi there I have 115hp 96. I rebuild the carbs and after the rebuild I been having alot of problem trying to keep it on idle ,it turn off and one I'm on the water and try to put it in gear it turn off. I got it to run and I was going 30 mph and I felt a kicking from time to time until it turn off and had another hard time to turn it on and get it running. I need help and still have that problem.
My Johnson 90 hp is idling a little to high. Will adjusting these idle screw adjustment lower the motor idle?
I'll test it today
Do you have a video of the carb rebuild
Would this wprk for a 1981 i need help its dying when i put it in gear
other than a new starter, a crank position sensor and some new spark plugs seafoam seems to correct most idle problems.
crank position sensor? this is an analog CD ignition!
Good vid Bro, I just rebuild my carbs. I have a 2001 Johnson 200hp and I plan to do the same adjustment. Do you know if the Timing adjustment is the same for my motor. 2 degrees before top dead center.
Jose Marrero ,I think so, after this motors I have a Johnson 200hp year 2000 and I did the exact same thing and it's running just fine
Thank you for responding back. I have a question, when you make the timing adjustment do you wait for the motor to worm up first and then make the adjustment.
I know this video is old but i am having same issues on my 96 Evinrude oceanpro 200hp, by rough idle and it surges at WOT from 4000rpm down to 3500rpm, any knowledge/advice would be greatly appreciated
My buddy was having problems with surging he replaced everything he could think of and it ended up being the fuel/vapor separator. It's where the fuel line screws onto that housing there is some kind of needle he said and the rubber was messed up or something. Might want to try that
I got a 150hp 2000 johnson, when is in idle it shuts off after 5 minutes or so, you this is compatible with my motor? and you think if I do this will help to keep it in idle, steady idle? thanks and please reply!
I think so ,I did the same to a Johnson 200 hp year 2000 and it's working just fine, if the carburetors looks like this ones you should be good to do it ,just make sure they are clean ,remember advancing the time in idler 1 or 2 degrees before TDC give you a better idler, I'm not an outboard mechanic I Learn from others and I try to help, good luck
Yo tengo uno El alta pre de pero cuando lo voy a poner en cambio...SE pagan me podrias decir SI tienes idea que podra ser
Bonjour pouvez-vous mettre des vidéos du système de refroidissement où il y a les thermostat merci je regarderai votre vidéo si vous la mettez sur CZcams
My johnson 114 reves go from 2k up to 3500 on there own at idle can anybody please help
have a 115hp that won't idle below 1000rpm without pushing in the choke every now n then. This is what I'll try nexrt. thank you.
I don't know if the 115 HP takes the same adjustments... it looks like your problem is dirty carburetors ,make sure your carburetors are clean before doing any adjustments
Most the time it just needs the idle turned up a little.. if it idles out of the water but not in the water it’s cause there is more pressure for the exhaust so you don’t have to go through all that. Just turn your idle up a little problem solved.
your engine cant be a 1998 140hp. Johnson didnt make 140hp after 1995. Just curious: whats the serial number of the engine?
Vincent Ighian I don't own this boat anymore but right next to the serial number there was the year (1998), and the mechanic how helped me verified the year before gave me the instructions and yes it was 1998
Interesting. ok Thank you
I have a 96 130 v4
@@joshwamorwood1906 Same here. Mine idles pretty bad. Just rebuilt the carbs, changed fuel filter, and gonna change plugs too. If that doesn't work, will give this a try
@@bransayleryou ever gave it a try? I have a v4 130 and rebuilding the carbs right now and don't think I saw an idle mix adjustment other than the linkage for rpm
It's actually pronounced TORX ("torks) head screws And it's just RPM... It's NEVER RPMs...!
ok thank you very helpful your comment English teacher, it is irrelevant to the content of the video but thanks